I wrote that K2 would never become Everest in a blog<\/a> in 2016. I was wrong.<\/p>\n With the ropes to the summit and excellent weather (for the moment), we saw scores of summits led by throngs of Sherpas with clients on high oxygen flow rates – it’s the Everest model now applied to K2. There were at least three exceptions to using O’s: Andorian Stefi Troguet, Taiwanese Grace Tseng, and Chinese climber He Jing all summited without O’s.<\/p>\n Also notable were the first nationality and several female summits: Pakastani female Samina Baig, followed by Pakastani female Naila Kiani. Also the first Irian female, Afsaneh Hesamifard. Another national first is Saeed Almemari from the United Arab Emirates. South Africans, John Black, and Warren Eva summited – the first for SA.<\/p>\n Finally, a note on summit success. We are seeing a lot of 100% claims, and many are absolutely true. However, it’s becoming more common for operators to only count those climbers who left for the summit push and, in some cases, only from high camp, into their overall summit success calculation. So, for example, if an operator had 15 members and only ten left for the summit, and all made it, they will cite 100% success, not 66% with 10 of the 15 summiting. The Himalayan Database uses “members above base camp” for their summit rate calculations, ignoring those members who came to a climb but never left base camp. Lots of ways to do these calculations but be aware of the basis when admiring the overall success of an operator.<\/p>\n Many summits on K2 in the last 24 hours. Thankfully, the conditions are good, reducing the risk of accidents, and thus far, no serious complaints about crowds, even though they may emerge once climbers are back to base camp or home. And of course, what happens on the mountain stays on the mountain! \ud83d\ude42 These teams reported summits with 88 Sherpa or Pakastani support for 54 clients:<\/p>\n The team from Madison Mountaineering was the first commercial team on K2’s summit. Garrett <\/a>Madison gave this update:<\/p>\n 1. Mr. Terray Ellington Sylvester from USA (Guide)<\/p>\n 2. Mr. Claudio \u201cCacho\u201d Javier Beiza from Argentina (Guide)<\/p>\n 3. Ms. Nelly Attar from Lebanon<\/p>\n 4. Ms. Krisli Melesk from Estonia<\/p>\n 5. Mr. Aang Phurba Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 6. Mr. Siddhi Bahadur Tamang from Nepal<\/p>\n 7. Mr. Dorji Gyeljen Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 8. Mr. Kamdorji Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 9. Mr. Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 10. Mr. Mingdorji Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 11. Mr. Lakpa Bhote from Nepal<\/p>\n 12. Mr. Rinji Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 13. Mr. Temba Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 14. Mr. Lakpa Sherpa from Nepal<\/p>\n 15. Mr. Inayat Ali from Pakistan<\/p>\n Additionally, our rope fixing team of Siddhi, Dorji, and And Pemba Sherpa from 8K Expeditions<\/a> reported 11 summits:<\/p>\n Members:<\/p>\n 1. Kristin A. Bennett – USA<\/p>\n 2. Kristin Harila – Norway<\/p>\n 3. Frank Loke- Norway<\/p>\n 4. Liliya Ianovskaia – Canada<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Climbing Guides: 1<\/p>\n . Pema Chhiring Sherpa – Nepal<\/p>\n 2. Dawa Ongju Sherpa – Nepal<\/p>\n 3. Pemba Tasi Sherpa – Nepal<\/p>\n 4.Dawa Dorchi Sherpa – Nepal<\/p>\n 5. Dawa Wongju Sherpa \/AD-Nepal<\/p>\n 6. Pemba Dorchee Sherpa- Nepal<\/p>\n 7. Fida Ali – Pakistan<\/p><\/blockquote>\n And Seven Summits Treks<\/a> had a nice talley:<\/p>\n 1) Afsane Hesamifard (f)<\/p>\n 2) Mingtemba Sherpa<\/p>\n 3) Monikia Witkowska (f)<\/p>\n 4) Pasang Sherpa<\/p>\n 5) He Jing (No O2) (f)<\/p>\n 6) Vladimir Kotlyar<\/p>\n 7) Nadhira Alharthy (f)<\/p>\n 8 ) Fura Tshering Sherpa<\/p>\n 9) Ngima Tashi Sherpa<\/p>\n 10) Ravi Chandran Malingam<\/p>\n 11) Mingma Tenjen Sherpa<\/p>\n + Counting Abbreviation: (f) = Female. Note: He Jing a Chinese Female Climber climbed Everest and Lhotse in 2022 Spring Blue Sky Expeditions<\/a>, a Pakistani logistics operation supporting Elite Expeditions, reported 33 summits.<\/p>\n K2 SUMMIT, 100% This morning everyone from our K2 team who started from basecamp reached the summit. The team is now descending below C4. Mission accomplished for our K2 expedition! *100 percent 1. Asma Al Thani @atalthani<\/p>\n 2. Fahad Badar @fahad917<\/p>\n 3. Miguel Madrid @miguelmadridlopez<\/p>\n 4. Spencer Pipkin @spennypip<\/p>\n 5. Isaac Selby<\/p>\n 6. Stefi Troguet @etroguet<\/p>\n 7. Marie-pier Desharnais @mariepier.desharnais<\/p>\n 8. Wasfia Nazreen @wasfianazreen<\/p>\n 9. April A. Leonardo<\/p>\n 10. Anne Faerovig @popuplens<\/p>\n 11. Hakon Asvang@hakonasvang<\/p>\n 12. Anthony Middleton @antmiddleton<\/p>\n 1. Nimraldai Purja @Nimraldai<\/p>\n 2. Mingma david Sherpa @mingma_david_sherpa<\/p>\n 3. Mingma tenzi Sherpa @mt.sherpa<\/p>\n 4. Mingma temba Sherpa<\/p>\n 5. Lakpa tashi Sherpa<\/p>\n 6. Mingma Sherpa<\/p>\n 7. Nima Sherpa<\/p>\n 8. Dawa temba Sherpa<\/p>\n 9. Ramesh Gurung @climber_ramesh<\/p>\n 10. Phur Bahadur Gurung<\/p>\n 11. Tenji Sherpa @ifmga_tenji_sherpa<\/p>\n 12. Pam dorjee Sherpa<\/p>\n 13. Pasang tshering Sherpa<\/p>\n 14. Pasang tendi Sherpa<\/p>\n 15. Mitra Tamang<\/p>\n 16. Mingma dorjee Sherpa<\/p>\n 17. Suman Gurung @guiding_photography<\/p>\n 18. Pem chiri Sherpa<\/p>\n 19. Kalden phura Sherpa<\/p>\n 20. Karma Geljen Sherpa<\/p>\n 21. Abid Asad Sadparvi<\/p>\n All team are safely back at Camp 3. More updates to follow Team Blue Sky Treks & Tours Expedition With: Elite Expedition<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Furtenbach Adventures<\/a> also said 100% success:<\/p>\n K2 SUMMIT, 100%. This morning everyone from our K2 team who started from basecamp reached the summit. The team is now descending below C4.<\/p>\n Summiteers:<\/p>\n Roland Striemitzer<\/p>\n Mingma Dorchi Sherpa<\/p>\n Christian Wild Kunga Ingo Berner<\/p>\n Dawa Jangbu<\/p>\n Lama Dawa Dorchi<\/p>\n Michael Lutz<\/p>\n Lakpa Nurbu<\/p>\n Ngima Dorchi<\/p>\n Sherpa Moritz<\/p>\n Werner Ram<\/p>\n Nurbu Sherpa<\/p>\n Ngimadorchi Sherpa<\/p><\/blockquote>\n And Pioneer Adventures<\/a> had:<\/p>\n Mr. Jon Mr. Warren<\/p>\n Mr. Khai Mr. Shuhei<\/p>\n Sherpa Mr. Mingma Dorchi Sherpa<\/p>\n Mr. Pemba Rita Sherpa<\/p>\n Mr. Lakpa Gyalzen<\/p>\n Sherpa Mr. Pasang<\/p>\n Sherpa Mr. Phurtenze<\/p>\n Sherpa Mr. Chhangwa Sherpa<\/p><\/blockquote>\n More summits were reported by Karakorum Expeditions<\/a>. They did not list any support for either Nepali or Pakistani.<\/p>\n 1. Samina Baig<\/p>\n 2. Eid Muhammad<\/p>\n 3. Bulbul Karim<\/p>\n 4. Ahmed Baig<\/p>\n 5. Rizwan Dad<\/p>\n 6. Waqar Ali<\/p><\/blockquote>\n And Mingma G Imagine Nepal<\/a> team had an outstanding day with 23 summits.<\/p>\n Summiter Name list:<\/p>\n 1. Mingma G (4th summit of Mt.K2)<\/p>\n 2. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa<\/p>\n 3. tamting Sherpa<\/p>\n 4. Pasang Namgel sherpa<\/p>\n 5. Lakpa Tamang<\/p>\n 6. Angdu Sherpa<\/p>\n 7. Dawa Sherpa<\/p>\n 8. Tsering sherpa<\/p>\n 9. Pemba TenzingSherpa<\/p>\n 10. Sonam Tashi sherpa<\/p>\n 11. Nima Dorjee Sherpa<\/p>\n 12. Pemba Cheri sherpa<\/p>\n 13. Shah simshali<\/p>\n 1. \u738b\u949f Wang Zhong<\/p>\n 2\u3002 \u9ad8\u7acb Gao li<\/p>\n 3\u3002 Mr Aleksandr Yul Gromen<\/p>\n 4\u3002Ms Gina Marie RZucidlo<\/p>\n 5\u3002Ms Jennifer Lyn Drummond<\/p>\n 6. Mr.Par Stefan isgren<\/p>\n 7. Ms Jill Wheatley<\/p>\n 8. mr Sashko Kedev<\/p>\n 9. Mr Rene Michael Bergsma Netherland<\/p>\n 10. Mr Naoki Ishikhawa<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Jenn Drummond<\/a> furthered her goal of becoming the first female to complete the Second Seven Summits reported summiting K2. She now has Canada’s Logan, and Sumantri in Oceana (New Guinea) left of the Seven.<\/p>\n I summited k2 today! And I cried like a baby at the top. It was a long and hard day. The terrain is non-stop, and there is no place to really pass people going back down, and when you get stuck behind a person, that is not a very good thing. It bottlenecks everyone on the mountain. It was a great weather day. Likely one for the books in terms of weather for K2. Mother nature was definitely on our side to make this happen today for myself and so many others. It was a bit warm at times, but it could have been super windy and freezing cold, so I will take the weather we got. Everyone I know that went for the summit push summited today. I bet it will be the largest summit day in the history of the mountain as well. Watching people work hard for their dream and make it happen starts the waterworks for me every time. I get so excited for everyone. So many records were shattered for so many as well today. It was the first ascent for many women and men from different countries. Some without o2, and for some, it was the first summit for their culture. All pressing the boundaries of what is possible. This environment is mind-blowing so honored to have so many amazing humans with that I will forever have a special bond with from today. I am exhausted yet also bursting with all the feels. More to share and more to come. Love love love – Jenn<\/p><\/blockquote>\n The following teams should be finished with their K2 climb, and some will move to Broad Peak:<\/p>\n With these teams either waiting or not providing updates as to their current position or plans:<\/p>\n Muhammad Ali, Managing Director, Adventure Pakistan, tells me his team is targeting July 27\/28<\/p>\n More summits on one of the three “achievable” 800e0rs, Cho and Manaslu, are the other two in my opinion – note I said ‘achievable, not ‘easy.’. Mani Oostra said his 360 Expeditions<\/a> summited, but no names or numbers. Jagged Globe, demonstrating great patience, made the top of GII:<\/p>\n The team left Camp 3 at 2230hrs last night (21 July) with Paul summiting this morning (22 July) at 0825hrs with local climbers working for the expedition, Zakir from Hushe and Hassan from Shigar. Luke climbed to 7350m and Rui reached 7400m, before descending with David back down to Camp 3. Note that none of our team were climbing on 02. We’ll post another update when we have it, but for now they are focussed on descending as the plan is to leave BC 24 July. Congratulation to all of the team.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Climb On!<\/p>\n Alan<\/p>\n Memories are Everything<\/p>\n You can listen on Spotify<\/a>, ApplePodcast<\/a>, Google Podcasts<\/a>, PocketCasts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\nK2 – Scores of Summits<\/h2>\n
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\nRinji worked with 2 Sherpas from another team to set the lines from camp 4 to the top. We are very proud of their hard work in opening the route and leading the way!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
\nand now K2 (today) all with No Oxygen.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
\nsuccess rate! Huge congratulations once again to our elite Exped K2 Expedition 2022 Summiteers:<\/p>\n
\nSherpa Ang Kaji Sherpa<\/p>\n\n
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Gasherbrum II – More Summits<\/h2>\n
\nThe Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n
\nSummit Coach<\/h1>\n
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