{"id":42790,"date":"2022-08-02T10:35:35","date_gmt":"2022-08-02T16:35:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=42790"},"modified":"2023-08-01T13:56:48","modified_gmt":"2023-08-01T19:56:48","slug":"k2-summer-2022-chasing-records","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2022\/08\/02\/k2-summer-2022-chasing-records\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 Summer 2022: Chasing Records"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Summits continue but mainly for the record seekers. The mainstream press has picked up on the K2 crowds. It&#8217;s Everest all over again, with reports of crowds, inexperienced clients, excessive support, and oxygen. Only a few stories of the deep satisfaction that comes with true accomplishments. \u00a0Let the hand-wringing begin!<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Big Picture<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Without a doubt, the summer of 2022 will go down as when things changed in Pakistan&#8217;s Karakorum. Thus far, there are around 200 summits on K2, dwarfing the previous record year in 2018 of 62. Also, we saw at least ten women summit, smashing any pretense of a &#8220;female curse&#8221; on K2. I estimate somewhere between 25 and 30 women have now summited K2.<\/p>\n<p>We also saw multiple commercial teams use extensive Pakistan and Nepal support resources to fix lines and establish and stock camps with supplemental oxygen that allowed climbers, who in previous years would never have considered K2, not only to attempt it but summit, some without O&#8217;s.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m seeing many articles in the press about K2, quoting expedition leaders who talk about crowds, rockfall, dangerous conditions, too many people on the route at one time, and some now marketing other routes on K2 as safer. There is a reason the Abruzzi is the most used route on K2. But this generation of operators has a risk tolerance, they would say they are better climbers, which is different than the old timers, and in some cases, they have been correct. As I&#8217;ve said many times this season, times are a changin.<\/p>\n<p>[poll id=&#8221;41&#8243;]<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Summits Continue<\/strong><\/h2>\n<h3>Broad Peak<\/h3>\n<p>Norwegian<strong>\u00a0Kristin Harila<\/strong>, 36,\u00a0supported by 8K Expeditions&#8217; Dawa Ongju and Pasdawa Sherpa, got their ninth 8000ers since April 28, 2022. \u00a0She is trying for the shortest time to climb all 14 and will need to finish by November 3, 2022, to get the speed record.\u00a0She has GI &amp; II, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma remaining. I remain a bit confused as to her status with Manaslu.<\/p>\n<p>Also on Broad was Tawainese\u00a0Tseng Ko-Erh aka Grace Tseng, 29, supported by Dolma Outdoor&#8217;s Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Ningma Dorje Tamang. She is said to have not used O&#8217;s. She wants to be the youngest Tawainese to get all fourteen. She has twelve now and is off to the Gasherbrums.<\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum I and II<\/h3>\n<div class=\"kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">Sajid Ali Sadpara,\u00a0Shehroze Kashif, Kristin Harila, Adriana Brownlee, and Grace Tseng\u00a0will be climbing GI &amp; II before the season ends.<\/div>\n<h3>Over<\/h3>\n<div><a tabindex=\"0\" role=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/denisurubko?__cft__[0]=AZX778amQp2JGHBi-lgVT180mpSu6dM6uDlF5gd584Y6CwOY0ewzANeEX8T4zzQwrnWftFGMIAE2Q-66GNbrt_8y1sisw0VbXr7lm7xuugu_KYdubjBrKooE4NOgEku0_vXqQm360hWM84KJB8Rl6pafPVztEHHVEHhzm_p-0Jx1Og&amp;__tn__=-UC%2CP-R\">Denis Urubko<\/a>\u00a0has left the Karakorum without getting his 27th (by his count) 8000er summit while not using O&#8217;s. He got K2, Broad, and GII this time, all alone with no O&#8217;s.<\/div>\n<h3>Six Deaths: \u00a03-K2, 2- Broad Peak 1- GII<\/h3>\n<p>The death toll remains relatively low, given the number of summits this summer. Thus far, there are six: three on K2, two on Broad Peak, and one near G II.<\/p>\n<p>On K2,\u00a0Canadian Richard Cartier, 60, and Australian\u00a0Matt Eakin of Australia. They were part of a small team using Adventure Pakistan Treks and Expedition logistics. Also on K2 was Afghanistan climber\u00a0Ali Akber Sakhim, 34, who died from altitude sickness near C3 on K2 on July 20, 2022.<\/p>\n<p>On Broad Peak,\u00a0Pakistani climber\u00a0Sharif Sadpara died after falling through a soft spot on the summit ridge cornice. And Scottish climber Gordon Henderson is reported missing, but his home team now presumes he&#8217;s dead, according to a report from the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.raf.mod.uk\/news\/articles\/wing-commander-gordon-henderson\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">RAF<\/a>. He was part of the British Services Mountaineering Expedition.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, Pakistani High Altitude Worker, Iram Karim, died after falling into the raging stream near GII Base Camp.<\/p>\n<div><\/div>\n<div class=\"kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/div>\n<hr \/>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>You can listen on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple<\/a>, Google, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/radiopublic.com\/the-podcast-on-alanarnettecom-G2R7r0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">RadioPublic<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Summit Coach<\/strong><\/h1>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitcoach.org\/contact\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Schedule a Free Call<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitcoach.org\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?resize=200%2C79&amp;ssl=1\" alt=\"summit coach\" width=\"200\" data-attachment-id=\"24764\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/16\/i-want-to-climb-mt-everest\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?fit=200%2C79&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"200,79\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"summit coach\" data-image-description=\"&lt;p&gt;summit coach&lt;\/p&gt; \" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?fit=200%2C79&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?fit=200%2C79&amp;ssl=1\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?resize=200%2C79&amp;ssl=1\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitcoach.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Summit Coach<\/a> is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette\u2019s 25 years of high-altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Summits continue but mostly for the record seekers. The mainstream press has picked up on the K2 crowds. It&#8217;s Everest all over again. Let the hand wringing begin!<\/p>\n<p>Big Picture<\/p>\n<p>Without a doubt, the summer of 2022 will go down as when things changed in Pakistan&#8217;s Karakorum. Thus far, there are around 200 summits on K2, dwarfing the previous record year in 2018 of 62. Also, we saw at least ten women summit, also smashing any pretense of a &#8220;female curse&#8221; on K2. I estimate somewhere between 25 and 30 women have now summited K2.<\/p>\n<p>We also saw multiple commercial teams use extensive Pakistan and Nepai support resources to fix lines, establish and stock camps with supplemental oxygen that allowed climbers, who in previous years would never have considered K2, not only to attempt it but summit, some without O&#8217;s.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m seeing many articles in the press about K2, quoting expedition leaders who talk about crowds, rockfall, dangerous conditions, too many people on the route at one time, and some now marketing other routes on K2 as safer. There is a reason the Abruzzi is the most used route on K2. But this generation of operators has a risk tolerance, they would say they are better climbers, which is different than the old timers, and in some cases, they have been correct. As I&#8217;ve said many times this season, times are a changin.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":31002,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Summits continue but mainly for the record seekers. The press is salivating over the K2 crowds with reports of crowds, inexperienced clients, excessive support, oxygen. Few stories of the deep satisfaction that comes with true accomplishments. Take the poll #k2022","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,639],"tags":[432,42,640],"class_list":["post-42790","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2022-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-k2","tag-k2-2022-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/K2-2014-1.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42790","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=42790"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42790\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31002"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=42790"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=42790"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=42790"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}