{"id":43626,"date":"2023-05-14T14:16:57","date_gmt":"2023-05-14T20:16:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=43626"},"modified":"2023-05-15T10:09:07","modified_gmt":"2023-05-15T16:09:07","slug":"everest-2023-first-of-many-commercial-summits","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2023\/05\/14\/everest-2023-first-of-many-commercial-summits\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2023: First of Many Commercial Summits"},"content":{"rendered":"

It looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th<\/sup> for their summit day. Look for summits each day this week.<\/p>\n

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Sources on the mountains report five foreigners supported by five Sherpas summit on Sunday morning, May 14, 2023, and nighty more are leaving for the South Col for their summit bids Sunday night. Tonight has forty foreigners supported by fifty Sherpas for a ratio of 1:1.25.<\/div>\n
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Notable summits include Pasang Dawa Sherpa equaling Kami Rita Sherpa for the most summits at twenty-six. Note that over 100 Sherpas have ten or more Everest summits. All are confirmed by the Himalayan Database. <\/span>Climbers from Pakastin had a good night: Naila Kaini, Nadia Lisa Khoso and Sajid Sadpara, who didn’t use supplemental oxygen.<\/div>\n
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I’m being told that mountain conditions are not great. One climber told me, “There is also considerable rock fall danger on the Lhotse face, particularly near the yellow band and Geneva Spur. One of the sherpas was hit by a rock on the head and suffered a bleeding injury. He was thankfully evacuated by helis from just below the Lhotse face. “<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Other 8000ers<\/h2>\n

There are teams ready for the summit on Makalu<\/strong>, \u00a0Kangchenjunga<\/strong>. Over on, Dhaulagiri,<\/strong> Carlos Soria, Sito Carcavilla and their Sherpa team have cached gear at Camp 1 and are holding for better conditions after horrendously heavy snowfall the past few weeks.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Potpourri<\/h2>\n

The American who illegally paraglided from C3, Darren Verploegen was fined $11,000 (cost of a permit) by the Nepal Ministry of Tourism but allowed to resume the Everest expedition.<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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Nepal RECORD<\/strong> Permit Update as of May 14, 2023<\/h2>\n

Government officials say they will not issue any more Everest climbing permits this season, stopping at a <\/span>record of 478<\/strong><\/span>. The previous Everest record was 408 for the 2021 season of 408. Nepal issued climbing permits for <\/span>1,176 climbers from 80 countries for 27 peaks. Looking at Everest only, China has the largest representation with 97 members, followed by the US at 89, India\u2013at 40, Canada-21, and Russia-20. There are 44 countries represented by three or fewer climbers.<\/span><\/p>\n

These permits have generated $5.8M in royalties for the government. Almost all of this revenue stays in Kathmandu, with some in various personal pockets and none to the Sherpas, porters, or other high-altitude workers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these foreign permit tallies as of May 14, 2022:<\/span><\/p>\n

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  1. Everest: 478 on 47 teams<\/strong><\/li>\n
  2. Lhotse: 156 on 17 teams<\/li>\n
  3. Ama Dablam: 79 on 8 teams<\/li>\n
  4. Nuptse: 63 on 6 teams (only a few will attempt to summit, most will stop at C2)<\/li>\n
  5. Makalu: 63 on 9 teams<\/li>\n
  6. Annapurna I: 54 on 5 teams<\/li>\n
  7. Kanchenjunga: 44 on 5 teams<\/li>\n
  8. Himlung: 41 on 5 teams<\/li>\n
  9. Dhaulagiri: 37 on 4 teams<\/li>\n
  10. Manaslu: 15 on 4 teams<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Climb On!
    \nAlan
    \nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

    \n

    The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/span><\/h2>\n

    You can hear #everest2022 podcasts on\u00a0<\/span>Spotify<\/a><\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>Apple Podcast<\/a><\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>Google Podcasts<\/a><\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>Pocket Casts<\/a><\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>RadioPublic<\/a><\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>Anchor<\/a><\/span>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Climbing to the South Col<\/h3>\n
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    143 views<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\tEverest2023- Climbing to the South Col<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n
    \n

    Summit Coach<\/span><\/h2>\n

    Schedule a Free Call<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

    \"summit<\/a><\/p>\n

    If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help.\u00a0<\/span>Summit Coach<\/a><\/span>\u00a0is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 25 years of high-altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    It looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th for their summit day. Look for summits each day this week. #everest2023<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":37100,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. Look for summits each day this week. #everest2023","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[147,659,81],"tags":[658],"class_list":["post-43626","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-everest","category-everest-2023-coverage","category-everest-news","tag-everest-2023-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/EVEREST_2002_531.jpeg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43626","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=43626"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43626\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/37100"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=43626"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=43626"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=43626"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}