![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Upper-Kuhumbu-Icefall-2003-scaled.jpeg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nI’m not too concerned about this delay and expect the route to be through the Icefall soon. History shows the route is through the ‘fall between April 2, as in 2017, and as late as April 16, like in 2010. Look for the first teams to arrive at EBC around April 15 and enter the Icefall a few days later. Sherpas will establish Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm as soon as the Icefall route is in.<\/p>\n
Some teams are taking helicopters from Kathmandu to Lukla. The usual poor weather will ground fixed-winged flights. Nepal will also limit some domestic flights out of Tribhuvan International Airport due to congestion, capacity or construction. You just never know, so some trekkers and climbers fly from Ramechhap, a small airstrip 140 km (85 miles), five hours\u00a0drive from Kathmandu.<\/p>\n
Many teams are acclimatizing on Lobuche East, nearly 20,000 feet, to eliminate one trip through the Icefall.<\/p>\n
The volunteer Doctors who will staff\u00a0Everest ER<\/a> on the Nepal side have set up their \u201cER Tent\u201d and are already treating patients for minor problems like upper respiratory infections, cuts and sprains. The more serious problem will begin once people reach a serious altitude, i.e., above 20,000 feet, but altitude can hit anyone anytime. This organization provides a great service to the locals, including porters, Sherpas, and foreign climbers, who are asked to pay a nominal fee of $125 for the season\u2014quite the bargain for a qualified and quality service.<\/p>\n On the Nepal side, many climbers and trekkers will continue their six to eight-day journey, taking in the sights and changing their lives as they experience the majesty of the Khumbu. Meanwhile, Sherpas will finish building tent platforms at Everest Base Camp, aka EBC, \u00a0and preparing their team\u2019s base camp for the next few months. There is similar activity on the Tibet side at Chinese Base Camp, aka CBC, where staff pitch tents and prepare for the climbers’ arrival.<\/p>\n The terrain at CBC is dramatically different from that at EBC. CBC is on a flat expanse of dirt that is often windblown, compared to EBC, which is pitched on the moving Khumbu Glacier. The latter melts throughout the season, occasionally requiring tents to be moved to more stable ground. Both sides offer stunning views\u2014the Icefall from EBC and one of the most impressive sights in the world, Everest North Face, from CBC. There are no bad views!<\/p>\n However, the Chinese government banned helicopters on the Tibet side, so even though it’s windier, it is much quieter than the never-ending helicopters flying in and out of EBC. They are supposed to be curtailed this season, but I’m doubtful anything will change, and it’ll continue to be an airport.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Some teams will have their Puja ceremony, where a Lama from a local Monastery performs a ceremony to ask the Mountain Gods permission to climb, forgiveness for damaging the mountain, and safety for all involved. This is a solemn ceremony that, for many, marks the beginning of the climb. I’ll discuss it more when they begin.<\/p>\n There’s lots of activity on Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. This week, we can expect the weather-dependent first 8000er summit of the season.<\/p>\n As of April 7, 2024, Nepal has issued 264 climbing permits to 30 teams for 15 peaks. This is the current tally for the 8000ers:<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I’ll have a twenty-minute updated episode of the story a few times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest<\/strong><\/em> follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home, trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push. The story’s protagonist, Harper, sets the tone for the story when she tells her husband, Marc, “Honey, I’m going to climb Everest.”<\/p>\n You can listen to Everyday Evererst<\/strong><\/em> on Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0Apple Podcast<\/a>, Breaker<\/a>, YouTube, Pocket Casts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n Here’s to a safe season for all on both sides.<\/p>\n Climb On! You can listen to #everest2024 podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0Apple Podcast<\/a>, Breaker<\/a>, YouTube, Pocket Casts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\nNext Week<\/h2>\n
<\/a><\/a>Other 800ers<\/h2>\n
Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\n
\n\n
\n 8000er<\/strong><\/td>\n Teams<\/strong><\/td>\n Male Clients<\/strong><\/td>\n Female Clients<\/strong><\/td>\n Total<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n\n \n Annapurna I<\/td>\n 3<\/td>\n 14<\/td>\n 11<\/td>\n 25<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Dhaulagiri<\/td>\n 1<\/td>\n 10<\/td>\n 5<\/td>\n 15<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Everest<\/strong><\/td>\n 13<\/strong><\/td>\n 119<\/strong><\/td>\n 30<\/strong><\/td>\n 149<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Kanchenjunga<\/td>\n 1<\/td>\n 5<\/td>\n 2<\/td>\n 7<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Lhotse<\/td>\n 4<\/td>\n 39<\/td>\n 6<\/td>\n 45<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Makalu<\/td>\n 1<\/td>\n 10<\/td>\n 0<\/td>\n 10<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n TOTALS<\/td>\n 23<\/td>\n 197<\/td>\n 54<\/td>\n 251<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\n\u00a0Everyday Everest<\/strong><\/em><\/h2>\n
A new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season.<\/h2>\n
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nHere’s the video<\/strong>\u00a0podcast version of this weekend’s update:<\/h2>\n