{"id":45229,"date":"2024-05-30T14:31:43","date_gmt":"2024-05-30T20:31:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=45229"},"modified":"2024-06-02T14:46:48","modified_gmt":"2024-06-02T20:46:48","slug":"everest-2024-last-summits-of-the-season-and-another-death","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2024\/05\/30\/everest-2024-last-summits-of-the-season-and-another-death\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2024: Last Summits of the Season and Another Death"},"content":{"rendered":"

The 2024 Everest season ended well for the Alpenglow group, but sadly, there was another death on the Nepal side. 2024 was a challenging year that may change the trajectory of climbing Everest, especially on the Nepal side. The Icefall Doctors are removing all the ladders in the Western Cwm and Khumbu Icefall, thus officially closing the season on that side. I’ll do my annual season summary in a few days.<\/p>\n

In windy conditions, on May 30, Alpenglow Expeditions<\/a> took all of their clients who arrived at base camp to the summit: six clients with five guides and twelve Sherpas or 1:2.8. They reached the summit in about 22 days from leaving home. Only a few teams were climbing on the Tibet side this year, and Alpenglow was the last team to top out. Adrian Ballinger posted:<\/p>\n

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After 5 years of waiting, we\u2019re finally back to standing on the roof of the world. Our entire 23-person 2024 Everest North Side Rapid Ascent Expedition team summited Mount Everest on May 28th and May 29th. We reached the summit of Everest a mere 22 days after our expedition started. \u00a0We wouldn\u2019t have been able to do this without the support of our entire sherpa and high altitude worker teams, base camp and office staff, and guides. Thank you all. The team is now back in ABC and we\u2019ve cleaned the entire upper mountain of our tents, trash, and waste. We couldn\u2019t be more pleased with our season and our return to Everest North Side!<\/p>\n

CLIENTS<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Myra Beaudoin Bertrand 🇺🇸<\/li>\n
  2. Graham Cooper🇺🇸<\/li>\n
  3. Bruce Chapman 🇬🇧<\/li>\n
  4. Matthew Greving 🇺🇸<\/li>\n
  5. John Carney🇺🇸<\/li>\n
  6. Christopher Salomon🇺🇸<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    GUIDES<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. Adrian Ballinger 🇬🇧 🇺🇸<\/li>\n
    2. Carla Perez 🇪🇨<\/li>\n
    3. Chad Peele🇺🇸<\/li>\n
    4. Sid Pattison🇺🇸<\/li>\n
    5. David Morton🇺🇸<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      SHERPAS<\/p>\n

        \n
      1. Chhewang Lendu Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      2. Dorji Sonam Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      3. Gandarva Rai🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      4. Kancha Nuru Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      5. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      6. Ngawang Tenjing Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      7. Ngima Tenjing Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      8. Palden Namgye Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      9. Pasang \u201cPso\u201d Sona Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      10. Pema Chhepal Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      11. Phura Tenzing Sherpa🇳🇵<\/li>\n
      12. Tenzing Tashi Sherpa 🇳🇵<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/blockquote>\n

        Some of the team sizes this year were beyond belief. I’ll cover more in the season summary, but on the Nepal side, 8K Expeditions<\/a> had 74 summits: 27 clients with 47 Sherpas or 1:1.74.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

        Eight Everest Death<\/h3>\n

        On May 28, Indian Banshi Lal, 46, died in a Kathmandu hospital after being evacuated from Everest with AMS, but the precise cause of death was not disclosed. He was climbing with 8K Expeditions. This is the fifth death for the Nepali operator this season.<\/p>\n

        Other 8000ers<\/h3>\n

        Polish climbers Bartek Ziemski and Oswald Pereira went against the odds and the crowd mentality to summit Kangchenjunga. There was one initial attempt back in early May. I’m receiving some reports of discontent with the teamwork around fixing the ropes on Kang this year. Mountain drama never ends. 14 Peaks notes that Eduard Kubatov from Kyrgyz Republic and Dawa Chhiring summited Makalu on May 30.<\/p>\n

        Pot Pourri<\/h3>\n

        In other news that’s not really newsworthy, that gaudy sign at Everest Basecamp has been removed. Word had it: it was placed on the moving glacier and fell over. How did that happen?<\/p>\n

        As expected, Elite Exped denied he falsely represented that Everest fixed ropes were cut and produced a retort video. There has not been a public reaction to the investigation by the Department of Tourism on the case.<\/p>\n

        \n

        Death and Missing Totals<\/h3>\n

        Everest\u2013Eight Deaths<\/strong><\/p>\n

          \n
        1. May 28 – Indian Banshi Lal<\/strong>, 46, died in a Kathmandu hospital after being evacuated from Everest with AMS. He was climbing with 8K Expeditions.<\/li>\n
        2. May 23 \u2013 Nepali (not a Sherpa) Binod Babu Bastakoti<\/strong>, 37, died<\/em> near the south Col after summiting and climbing with Yeti Adventure\/Pioneer Adventure.<\/li>\n
        3. May 22 \u2013 British Daniel Paul Paterson, <\/strong>40, is missing and presumed dead<\/em> near Hillary Step after summiting and climbing with 8K Expeditions.<\/li>\n
        4. May 22 \u2013 Pastenji Sherpa<\/strong>, 23, is missing and presumed dead<\/em> near Hillary Step after summiting with Paterson and climbing with 8K Expeditions.<\/li>\n
        5. May 22 \u2013 Kenyan Cheruiyot Kirui, <\/strong>40,<\/strong> died\u00a0above the Hillary Step, climbing without Os with Seven Summits Treks.<\/li>\n
        6. May 22 \u2013 Nawang Sherpa<\/strong>, 44, is missing and presumed dead<\/em> above the Hillary Step, supporting Kirui and climbing with Seven Summits Treks.<\/li>\n
        7. May 13 \u2013 Mongolian Usukhjargal Tsedendamba<\/strong>, 53, \u00a0died<\/em> on the SE Ridge after summiting, climbing with 8K Expeditions.<\/li>\n
        8. May 13 \u2013 Mongolian Prevsuren Lkhagvajav<\/strong>, 31, died<\/em> on the SE Ridge after summiting, climbing with 8K Expeditions.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

          Lhotse\u2013One Death<\/strong><\/p>\n

            \n
          1. May 21 \u2013 Romanian Gabriel Tabara<\/strong>, 48, was found dead<\/em> inside his tent at C3 attempting Lhotse. Climbing with Makalu Adventure.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
            \n

            Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\n

            The Ministry of Tourism collected USD$5.1 million in royalties, with Everest accounting for USD$4.5 million. This is the 2024 tally for the 8000ers the MoT posted through May 22.:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
            8000er<\/td>\nTeams<\/td>\nMale Clients<\/td>\nFemale Clients<\/td>\nTotal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
            Annapurna I<\/td>\n3<\/td>\n14<\/td>\n11<\/td>\n25<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Cho Oyu<\/td>\n1<\/td>\n1<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Dhaulagiri<\/td>\n3<\/td>\n22<\/td>\n8<\/td>\n30<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Everest<\/td>\n45<\/td>\n345<\/td>\n76<\/td>\n421<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Kanchenjunga<\/td>\n5<\/td>\n21<\/td>\n14<\/td>\n35<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Lhotse<\/td>\n16<\/td>\n128<\/td>\n28<\/td>\n156<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Makalu<\/td>\n7<\/td>\n43<\/td>\n21<\/td>\n64<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Manaslu<\/td>\n1<\/td>\n2<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            TOTALS<\/td>\n80<\/td>\n574<\/td>\n158<\/td>\n732<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

            Climb On!
            \nAlan
            \nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

            \n

            Here’s the video\u00a0podcast version of this weekend’s update:<\/h2>\n

            You can listen to #everest2024 podcasts\u00a0on Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0Apple Podcast<\/a>, Breaker<\/a>, YouTube<\/a>, Pocket Casts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n

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            Previous Everest 2024 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\n