{"id":45585,"date":"2024-11-03T13:17:30","date_gmt":"2024-11-03T20:17:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=45585"},"modified":"2024-11-28T13:20:05","modified_gmt":"2024-11-28T20:20:05","slug":"podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-8-denali-with-dave-hahn-interview","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2024\/11\/03\/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-8-denali-with-dave-hahn-interview\/","title":{"rendered":"Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 8\u2013Denali with Dave Hahn Interview"},"content":{"rendered":"

Alaska’s Denali is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters). It requires the strongest fitness level, Everest’s altitude notwithstanding, of the Seven Summits to climb. Yet it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the planet. It’s not a climb to be underestimated, but a rewarding experience if you can climb it.<\/p>\n

Overview<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Denali is located in central Alaska, 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and 200 miles East of the Bearing Sea. Denali is the native American name for the mountain, but in 1896, Prospector William Dickey renamed the peak Mt. McKinley for Presidential nominee William McKinley of Ohio. Denali National Park and Preserve was established as Mount McKinley National Park on February 26, 1917. The surrounding area was named Denali National Park by the National Park Service in 1980. In 2015, the mountain’s name was officially renamed Denali.<\/p>\n

The 20,310-foot south summit was first attempted in 1903, and the first summit was in 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, and Robert Tatum. Harper was a Native Alaskan.<\/p>\n

Like many of the Seven Summits, Denali has gained in popularity, with well over 1,000 people attempting each year. The attempts peaked in 2005 at 1,340, and 2013 had the most summits with 775. 2023 was a difficult weather year with only a 30% summit rate. Through 2023, 49,818 climbers have attempted Denali, with 25,835 summiting, a 52% success rate.<\/p>\n

Deaths occur almost yearly due to frostbite, weather, and poor preparedness. Nearly 100 have died, including 11 in 1992.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>The second highest mountain in North America is Mt. Logan in Canada’s Yukon, at 19,551’\/5959m, 385 miles southeast of Denali. Similar to Denali, Logan is a huge massif with eleven peaks. Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any mountain. The normal route is straightforward, but the weather is a huge problem for Logan, like it is for Denali, in addition to being so remote.<\/p>\n

Logistics and Difficulty<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Teams will gather in Anchorage before driving to Talkentena, where most will wait for a good weather forecast to fly in a bush plane to the snow-packed runway on the Kahiltna Glacier.<\/p>\n

The climb is not ‘easy,’ but it depends on what you have done. I did not find it overly difficult after Mont Blanc, Everest, Ama Dablam and some technical climbs like The Grand Teton. The most significant issues with Denali are the weather and a very short section above the High Camp fixed with ropes called the Autobahn. It is a physical climb, with each person carrying a 50-pound pack and pulling a 50-pound sled, so fitness is critical.<\/p>\n

Compared with Rainier or Aconcagua, Denali is primarily a more physical climb involving heavy loads. It is a much longer climb but similar to Rainier in that you mostly climb on steep snow slopes but obviously at a significantly higher altitude. You use fixed ropes on the headwall above the Ranger Camp at 14,200′.<\/p>\n

Routes and Dangers<\/strong><\/h3>\n

While multiple routes exist on the mountain, several dominate: West Buttress, Cassin Ridge, West Rib, Upper West Rib, East Face, and Messner Couloir. The West Buttress, first pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn, is the most popular by far, with 94% of climbers taking it in 2023.<\/p>\n

Most teams establish multiple camps at 7,200′, 7,800′, 11,200′, 14.,200′ and 17,200′, with the summit at 20,300′. While it is a bit of a slog, especially on the lower part of the glacier, it is a fun climb. The views are some of the best on the planet, overlooking the vast Alaskan ranges. Once above the Ranger Camp, the climbing becomes much more enjoyable with some nice exposure along the ridge, plus the extra challenge of altitude, high winds and even colder temperatures.<\/p>\n

Denali has few objective dangers, like rockfalls and avalanches, but crevasses are common. Guides closely monitor the route, avoiding soft snow bridges and open crevasses. Crevase rescue skills are required for every climber.<\/p>\n