{"id":47987,"date":"2025-05-12T11:30:22","date_gmt":"2025-05-12T17:30:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=47987"},"modified":"2025-05-27T11:56:25","modified_gmt":"2025-05-27T17:56:25","slug":"everest-2025-earthquake-summits-rescues-and-a-death","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2025\/05\/12\/everest-2025-earthquake-summits-rescues-and-a-death\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2025: Earthquake, Summits, Rescues and a Death\u2013Updated"},"content":{"rendered":"

Update: I spoke live to Adrian Hayes. He is fine and in Kathmandu. He didn’t have altitude sickness as originally reported, but was bumped off a high ridge by another climber and suffered a severely bruised arm, which impaired his descent.<\/p>\n

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While a successful weekend was achieved across four of Nepal’s 8,000-meter peaks, tragedy struck on Kanchenjunga. An earthquake struck near the Tibetan side of Everest, and more climbers summited Makalu; however, high winds have stalled plans for Everest summits for now.<\/p>\n

According to the Everest Chronicle<\/a> (the Nepal Ministry of Tourism<\/a> has stopped providing public updates on its permit data), Everest currently has 456 foreign nationals, up from 421 the previous year. The largest contingents are from the United States and India, each with 83 climbers, followed by China with 64 and the United Kingdom with 29. Of the total climbers, 372 are men and 84 are women, spread across 45 teams.<\/p>\n

On the Tibetan side, there are 48 foreigners, along with 68 Chinese (only 28 of whom are attempting Everest), and 100 support climbers, totaling around 200 people, according to Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow.<\/p>\n

Round Up<\/h2>\n

French climber Margareta Morin<\/strong>, 63, died as she ascended Kanchenjunga. She was climbing with Peak 15 Adventure<\/a>, and this was her first 8000er.<\/p>\n

My good friend, Adrian Hayes, <\/strong>was rescued after summiting Kangchunga and taken to High Camp, where he is awaiting evacuation after developing severe altitude sickness<\/del>. He was with Seven Summits Treks.<\/p>\n

The speed climber, Tyler Andrews, developed boot zipper problems and was forced to abandon his bid to set a speed record climbing from the EBC to Everest’s summit. It’s reported that he will try again in the next weather window, although it will be crowded. He will need to manage the logistics carefully.<\/p>\n

Madison Mountaineering reports their Makalu team summited, but no details, as did Asian Trekking for the nearly 8000-meter peak, Nuptse.<\/p>\n

A 5.5 magnitude earthquake occurred near the Tibetan village of Shigatse at 5:11 am local time, but no damage was reported on Everest’s Tibet side. In January 2025, a 6.8-magnitude earthquake struck Tibet’s Tingri county, around 150 miles away from Shigatse, killing over 120 people.<\/p>\n

Real Time Update<\/h2>\n

Willie Benegas<\/a> of the Benegas Brothers<\/a> guide company is embedded with Ryan Water’s Mountain Professionals<\/a> on a private guiding trip. He made an outstanding post<\/a> detailing their acclimatization rotation to C2:<\/p>\n

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Short But Powerful: Returning to Camp Two on Everest<\/p>\n

After so many years away, stepping back into the Khumbu Icefall felt like flipping open a worn book\u2014pages filled with memories, both triumphant and tragic. But this year, the Icefall is a new chapter altogether.<\/p>\n

The entrance has shifted far to the right\u2014so far, in fact, that in the past, this line would have been considered suicidal. Now, it cuts across what we call the \u201cSoccer Field,\u201d then bends left again, crawling beneath the ominous hanging seracs of the Horseshoe Glacier. That section has taken lives before\u2014heavy ones. And yet, paradoxically, this year\u2019s route may be the fastest I\u2019ve seen in the last 15 years. Efficient, but laced with quiet menace.<\/p>\n

What\u2019s most alarming, though, is the heat. The Khumbu Glacier is melting at terrifying speed. I used to think the stories of midnight climbs were just high-altitude folklore. Not anymore. This season, it\u2019s the only way to stay ahead of the melt. Just last night, our Sherpa team left Camp<\/p>\n

Two at 9 PM to push to the South Col\u2014Camp Four. In my earlier years, that would\u2019ve meant frostbite and bitter winds. Now, it\u2019s survival strategy.<\/p>\n

Reaching the Valley of Silence brought a different kind of intensity\u2014an emotional one. There\u2019s a stillness in that place that always leaves me breathless, and not from altitude. I felt old there. But I also felt strong. Not in the way I used to be\u2014reckless, fast\u2014but in a seasoned, rooted way.<\/p>\n

Seeing Damian\u2019s Camp Two setup (that he chose a few years ago) from above\u2014strategically perched on a granite dome\u2014was inspiring. From there, you get a panoramic view of the entire camp and the route beyond. He\u2019s carved out something special up there, and you can feel it.<\/p>\n

This rotation was short, yes\u2014but it carried the weight of years. Changes in the Icefall. Changes in climate. Changes in us.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ll rest now. But we\u2019ll return. And when we do, we\u2019ll carry these truths with us: The mountain changes. The glacier shifts. But the spirit\u2014that deep, raw pull that brought us here in the first place\u2014endures.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Photo of Everest North\u00a02025. Courtesy of Jason Weiss Photography LLC<\/a><\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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Death Total\u2013Ten across the Himalayas<\/h2>\n

1, 2. April 8\u2013Annapurna: Rinje Sherpa<\/strong> and Ngima Tashi Sherpa<\/strong>, avalanche on Annapurna while working for Seven Summits Trek<\/strong>s.<\/p>\n

3. April 26\u2013Ama Dablam: Austrian Martin Hornegger<\/strong>, 64, died descending Ama Dablam after summit.<\/p>\n

4. May 12\u2013Kanchenjunga: French climber Margareta Morin<\/strong>, 63, died ascending Kanchenjunga, climbing with Peak 15 Adventure<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

5. May 5\u2013Makalu: American Alexander (Alex) Pancoe<\/strong>, 39, died at Camp 2, climbing with Madison Mountaineering<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Everest\u2013Five<\/strong> Deaths<\/strong><\/h3>\n

1 April 2\u2013Nepali Lanima Sherpa<\/strong>, 55, reportedly<\/a> died due to high altitude sickness at EBC with an unidentified<\/strong> expedition operator.<\/span><\/p>\n

2. Early May, <\/span>Ngima Dorji Sherpa <\/strong>died at EBC from <\/span>reportedly<\/a> a brain hemorrhage. He worked for Seven Summits Treks<\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n

3 May 4\u2013Pen Chhiri Sherpa<\/strong> reportedly<\/a> had a heart attack at Camp I while working for TAG Nepal<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

4. May 15\u2013Filipino Philipp II Santiago<\/strong>, 45, reportedly<\/a> died of unknown causes at C4 on his Everest ascent with Snowy Horizon.<\/strong><\/p>\n

5. May 16, 2025, \u00a0West Bengal, Indian, Subrata Ghosh<\/strong>, 45, died near the Hillary Step after summiting with Snowy Horizon.<\/strong><\/p>\n

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The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n

You can listen to #everest2025 podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0Apple Podcasts<\/a>, Breaker<\/a>, Pocket Casts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n

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Previous Everest 2025 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\n