{"id":48056,"date":"2025-05-18T13:00:24","date_gmt":"2025-05-18T19:00:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=48056"},"modified":"2025-05-27T11:54:47","modified_gmt":"2025-05-27T17:54:47","slug":"everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2025\/05\/18\/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2025: Weekend Update May 18\u2013Summit, Summits and Preventable Deaths"},"content":{"rendered":"

Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 275. May 14th, <\/sup>\u00a015th <\/sup>and 18th<\/sup>, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, <\/sup>we saw more Nepal side summits.<\/p>\n

Each weekend during the season, I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news.<\/p>\n

Big Picture<\/h2>\n

In what has been a relatively breezy season, climbers have persisted in reaching summits across five 8,000-meter peaks in Nepal. While we are aware of numerous cases of severe frostbite, details are scarce, as negative news can harm business. The forecast calls for a favorable weather window, so teams on both sides of Everest are preparing for their summit push this weekend. I’ve seen one report of over 300 people (members accompanied by Sherpas) staged on the Nepalese side. The Tibet side is quieter, with teams waiting just a bit longer.<\/p>\n

Estimates vary, but at least 129 people summited Everest today, May 18th<\/sup>, on both the Nepalese, bringing the total to around 275, with 119 members supported by 156 Sherpas or support climbers. This results in a client-to-support ratio of 1:3. With an estimated 446 foreign permits issued by Nepal and a dropout rate of approximately 40%, there are likely around 150 clients or members remaining to summit on the Nepal side. Many are already staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.<\/p>\n

Meteorologists have told leaders to expect a decent weather window now. At least two climbers have died on the Nepal side, with more rescues or sick, abandoning their bids. In other words, a regular season on Mt. Everest. A narrative of going to the “Top of the World.”<\/p>\n

Illness and Heartbreak<\/h3>\n

I reported last week that a wicked upper repository infection, aka the \u00a0Khumbu Cough, was rampant this season in Nepal, and Brian Trapnell sent me this update (with permission to post) on how he had to end his Everest attempt, heartbreaking:<\/p>\n

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Just wanted to confirm your comments on your blog, I was with Furtenbach Flash, prepped extremely hard, was in great shape cardio and O2 stats, best in my life, have submitted many peaks, including Aconcagua, Denali and Ama, and probably through luck or fortune, never had the experience of not summiting, but got the bug in EBC, took everything I had to get through the Kumbu, harder for me than any summit push, had to turn around shortly after due to an upper respiratory infection? Virus? Whatever it was\u2026? Kicked my butt, never felt more sick, discouraged, depressed, couldn\u2019t have come a a worse time. Had to make the hard decision to descend over possible life threatening complications above. Difficult, but chose to follow my guides and outfitters recommendation, but literally heartbreaking after so much preparation and investment, financially, yes, but just the time and sacrifice physically, mentally and emotionally to get ready, can\u2019t even express the feeling of defeat coming down off the Kumbu\u2026<\/p>\n

I cannot begin to tell you the pain I experienced from so much coughing. With my preparation for the climb I did not have a single sore muscle in my body acclimatizing with an Mera Peak climb and other climbs around and near EBC, but after catching the Cough\/Virus my chest muscles and abdominal muscles made up for that in spades from so much deep forcefulcoughing, words cannot describe\u2026 I have never endured so much pain and never coughed up so much phlegm and sputum, cup fulls, literally, no joke. I\u2019m still cringing from the coughing fits right now as I am crossing the ocean back home to recover.
\nAll from a little bug and its progeny taking up residency in my larynx. <\/p>\n

Brian Trapnell<\/p>\n

PS- If you pass this on to there, feel free to edit. Thank you for your blog, very helpful up there, super accurate, probably the only way to get unbiased and true info on the mountain. You are amazing, please always keep it going, Sugarmatha \u00a0is a very special place<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Today\u2013May 18th<\/sup><\/h2>\n

The weather was reported to be nice on the Lhotse Face. Summit Climb<\/a> noted early Sunday morning, “Our incredible team of climbers and Sherpas is currently ascending from Camp 3 to Camp 4 under clear skies and perfect weather \u2014 sunny with no wind!”<\/p>\n

Climbing The Seven Summits<\/span><\/a> had another nice day putting 11 on the top of Everest today. <\/span><\/span>Pioneer Adventure<\/a> <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>had four summiteers.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>Seven Summit\u00a0<\/span><\/a>Trek<\/u><\/span><\/span> had a massive day with 38 summits by the NCC Boys & Girls Everest Expedition Team from India, comprising 17 members, 21 Sherpas, and another 17 from their International team. They had 103 clients this season and are getting many to the summit.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

14 Peaks Expedition<\/span><\/a> claimed five more summits. 8K Expeditions saw seven top out, and the HG Everest Expedition 2025 had a total of four. Dreamers Destination<\/a> had three summits.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Adventure Consultants<\/a>, under the leadership of Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa, summited four. Ang Dorgee has dual Nepali and American citizenship and now has the most Everest summits for an American at 24. Of course, Ang Dorge is the older brother of Kami Sherpa, Pangboche, with whom we summited Everest and K2 together. I climbed Everest with Ang Dorjee on my first attempt.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

On the Nepal side, Furtenbach Adventures<\/a>\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> posted they had summits but no summary other than it included “guides @paulguerra_mountainguide<\/a><\/span> @ruperthauer<\/a><\/span> and @kentoncool<\/a><\/span> and an outstanding Sherpa team under the lead of @kunga_sherpa_8848.86<\/a><\/span> @lmingmar306<\/a><\/span> and @dorjee.gyelzen<\/a>.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Kenton Cool, 52, extended his record for most non-Sherpa summits of Everest to 19.<\/p>\n

Last Week<\/h2>\n

May 14th<\/sup> and 15th,<\/sup> 2025, were big days on Everest despite blustery winds with 70 and 56 summits, respectively.<\/p>\n

Three teams had a large number of summits. Climbing The Seven Summits<\/span><\/a> noted a whopping 30 Everest<\/strong> summits on May 15th, comprising eight members, with twenty-two Sherpas. Seven Summit Treks<\/a> <\/span><\/span>also had a huge week with twenty-two summits made up of ten Chinese clients supported by twelve Sherpas. 8K Expeditions<\/a> successfully put 21 climbers on the summit of Mt. Everest, and then nine went on to summit Lhotse.<\/p>\n

Makalu Adventure also had success on Everest with three members and the same number of Sherpas. Imagine Nepal<\/a> had 19 summits on May 14.\u00a0 Pioneer Adventure <\/a>claimed five Everest<\/strong> summits, with two members accompanied by three Sherpas.<\/p>\n

Old & Young<\/h3>\n

Russian climber Iurii Sukhanov set a Russian age record at 70 with his summit of Everest on May 15. American Emma Schwerin broke the record as the youngest American woman to summit Everest, at 17 years, 2 months, and 24 days, and completed the Seven Summits.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Tendi Sherpa<\/a> with CTSS said it best regarding young Emma:<\/p>\n

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Feeling grateful to be back safely at Everest Base Camp after a successful summit of Everest on May 15th!\u00a0Despite some wind, we enjoyed a smooth ascent with minimal traffic, reaching the summit at 5:44 AM under clear skies and beautiful sunshine. It was an incredible honor to guide the remarkably strong and determined Emma Schwerin from the United States, alongside her father, Sam Schwerin. With this climb, Emma has officially become the youngest female to complete the Seven Summits\u2014an extraordinary achievement! More than just a summit, we shared a meaningful journey and built a friendship that I know will last a lifetime.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n

More Deaths\u00a0<\/h3>\n

On May 15, Filipino Philipp II Santiago<\/strong>, 45, reportedly<\/a> died of unknown causes at C4 on his Everest ascent, and the following day,\u00a0West Bengal, Indian, Subrata Ghosh<\/strong>, 45, died near the Hillary Step. Both climbers were with the Nepali-based Snowy Horizon. <\/strong>I consider both of these\u00a0preventable; given that they had Sherpa support, they could have turned back at the first sign of a problem.<\/p>\n

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Next Week<\/h2>\n

It will be full-on summit week, with hopes for low winds. May 19th is emerging as a favorite day, with the 20th seeing the winds pick up for one day before laying back through the end of the month. The best-led teams may wait out the mass push and go in a later window. Multiple teams are preparing or are already staged at high camps on the Nepal side for their summit pushes; They include:<\/p>\n

\"Madison<\/a>
Madison Mountaineering at Camp 2 on May 18, 2025<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n