On May 19, 2025, summits continued across the Himalayas, with success on Everest and Kangchenjunga. The total number of Everest summit attempts is well over 350. Two more deaths, both on Lhotse, bring the Himalaya season total to fourteen, with two of those unconfirmed.<\/p>\n
I’ll update this post or post a new one if more details come forth.<\/p>\n
Summit Climb changed their summit schedule, foregoing a rest day at the South Col after receiving a warning of high winds on the 20th. They made a good call:<\/p>\n
\nLast night at 9 PM, 3 of our courageous Members and 3 incredible Sherpas set off towards the top of the world \u2014 and this morning, they stood proudly on the summit of Mt. Everest! In a touching twist, 2 Members and 2 Sherpas reached the summit first and began their descent down the Hillary Step\u2026 but then, something magical happened. Right there, on one of the most iconic parts of Everest, they met the 3rd Member and Sherpa on their way up!\u00a0 A surprise reunion at 28,800 feet! Soon after, our final duo reached the summit, making it a complete team success. Everyone is now descending safely to South Col and may continue to Camp 3 or 2, depending on how they feel.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n
Elite Expeditions<\/strong> saw client summits on May 18 and 19, totaling 39: 12 clients supported by 27 Sherpas. And Seven Summits Treks<\/strong> continued to work with their clients by helping another eight reach Everest summits and seven for Lhotse. If my math is correct, 52 of their 103 clients have summited Everest this season, with more to come. Furtenbach<\/strong> noted the South Side summit by the “Flash and Classic teams.”<\/p>\n
14 Peaks<\/strong> also had success with eleven Everest summits. 8K<\/strong> continued their successful season with another fifteen summits on the three highest peaks in the world, as did Pioneer Adventures<\/strong>, which achieved six summits, including Dandu Sherpa and Om Bahadur Gurung, who assisted Chhonzin Angmo, who is blind, in summiting Everest. She is from Chango village of Kinnaur (Himachal Pradesh).<\/p>\n
On the Tibetan side, Climbalaya topped out, making them the successful team this season. “Connor Chilcott, Tshering Gyaljen Sherpa, and Kami Rita Sherpa reached the summit this morning at 07:30 China time.”<\/p>\n
More Deaths<\/h2>\n
On May 18, Romanian Zsolt Vago<\/strong>, 48, died near the Lhotse Couloir on his ascent of Lhotse. He was climbing with Himalayan Guides<\/strong>.<\/p>\n
Indian Rakesh Kumar<\/strong>, 39, died while descending from the summit near Yellow Band and was climbing with Makalu Adventure<\/strong>. He attempted Everest two days earlier, returned to the South Col without summit, but refused to descend to EBC, instead staying to attempt Lhotse.<\/p>\n
This article<\/strong> explains how the death of Indian Subrata Ghosh<\/strong>, 44, occurred after he had summited on May 16. His Sherpa seems to have done everything. However, this is a cautionary tale of how quickly altitude sickness can develop, and the only solution is to turn back immediately. My condolences to all who lost someone in the mountains this season.<\/p>\n
Winds to return<\/h2>\n
I expect most teams to stand down on the 20th due to the high wind forecast, but we’ll see. These are the remaining teams to watch (I may have missed a few).\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\n
- Alpine Ascents International<\/a> (AAI) at C2<\/li>\n
- Ascent Himalayas<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
- Dreamers Destination Treks and Expedition Pv<\/span>t. Ltd<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
- Furtenbach<\/a> at C3\/4 with “Powered by Xenon” team at C1\/2?<\/li>\n
- Kaitu Expedition <\/a><\/li>\n
- Madison Mountaineeering<\/a> at C2<\/li>\n
- Mountain Professionals\u00a0<\/a>at C2<\/li>\n
- Seven Summit Treks<\/a><\/li>\n
- 7 Summits Club<\/a> at C2<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Other teams on the Tibetan side that will ascend before the end of the month include Alpenglow<\/a>, a Chinese team;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0Climbalaya Treks & Expeditions<\/a>; Himalaya Expeditions<\/a>; Kobler & Partner<\/a>; and Imagine Nepal.<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n
People to Follow Update<\/h2>\n
Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa achieved his third Everest summit, matching his feat from last year. He wants one more this year. The charity, The Little Sherpa Foundation, plays a role in supporting Sherpas & Gyalzen is promoting our work.<\/p>\n
American\u00a0Tyler Andrews<\/a><\/strong>, 34, will make a second attempt at the speed record for ascending Everest, starting at 11:30 pm Nepal Time, May 22. He had boot issues the first time.\u00a0Karl Egloff<\/a>, also making a speed run, round-trip run without O’s,<\/p>\n
“Powered by Xenon”<\/h3>\n
If the plan Garth Miller laid out on his IG<\/a> account holds, they should have arrived at EBC on May 18, moved to Camps 1 and 2 within the following day, or even that evening. The four are currently on the climb: @therealgarthmiller<\/a>, @alcarns<\/a>, @stazthrudark<\/a>, and @kevgodlington<\/a>. You can follow them at #Livetrack<\/a>.<\/p>\n
In addition to the climb, they\u00a0aim to highlight the veterans’ community and their welfare, and to raise \u00a31 million for many Armed Forces and Veterans\u2019 charities, including those that support bereaved military families. You can donate at this link<\/a>.<\/p>\n
Other 8000ers<\/h2>\n
On Kanchenjunga, American couple Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger summited, adding to their 8000er bucket list. They climb with Seven Summits Treks and have nabbed \u00a0Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Manaslu, now Kang plus Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Denali, Mont Blanc, and the Matterhorn. SST twin brothers, Mingma Dorchi and Mingma Tenji, have been with them on all of their 8000ers. I did a podcast<\/a> with them in 2023 before their Everest climb.<\/p>\n
Also summiting Kang on Monday morning, May 19 were 17 climbers from the joint Indo-Nepal Army supported by SST.<\/p>\n
\n\nClimb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nDeath Total\u2013Twelve across the Himalayas<\/h2>\n
1, 2. April 8\u2013Annapurna: Rinje Sherpa<\/strong> and Ngima Tashi Sherpa<\/strong>, avalanche on Annapurna while working for Seven Summits Trek<\/strong>s.<\/p>\n
3. April 26\u2013Ama Dablam: Austrian Martin Hornegger<\/strong>, 64, died descending Ama Dablam after summit.<\/p>\n
4. May 12\u2013Kanchenjunga: French Margareta Morin<\/strong>, 63, died ascending Kanchenjunga, climbing with Peak 15 Adventure<\/strong>.<\/p>\n
5. May 5\u2013Makalu: American Alexander (Alex) Pancoe<\/strong>, 39, died at Camp 2, climbing with Madison Mountaineering<\/strong>.<\/p>\n
6. May 19\u2013Lhotse: Indian Rakesh Bishnoi<\/strong> died on decent after summit climbing with Makalu Adventure<\/strong>.<\/p>\n
7. May 19\u2013Lhotse: Romanian Barna Zsolt Vago<\/strong> died ascending Lhotse Couloir climbing with Himalayan Guides<\/strong>.<\/p>\n
Everest\u2013Five<\/strong> Deaths<\/strong><\/h3>\n
1 April 2\u2013Nepali Lanima Sherpa<\/strong>, 55, reportedly<\/a> died due to high altitude sickness at EBC with an unidentified<\/strong> expedition operator.<\/span><\/p>\n
2. Early May, <\/span>Ngima Dorji Sherpa <\/strong>died at EBC from <\/span>reportedly<\/a> a brain hemorrhage. He worked for Seven Summits Treks<\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n
3 May 4\u2013Pen Chhiri Sherpa<\/strong> reportedly<\/a> had a heart attack at Camp I while working for TAG Nepal<\/strong>.<\/p>\n