{"id":48862,"date":"2026-01-13T13:53:07","date_gmt":"2026-01-13T20:53:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=48862"},"modified":"2026-02-03T10:00:09","modified_gmt":"2026-02-03T17:00:09","slug":"everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/13\/everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage! <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2026-coverage\/\">2026<\/a> marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you\u2019re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you\u2019re new here, thanks for joining me.<\/p>\r\n<p>I <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2011.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">summited Everest<\/a> on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain three other times, all on the Nepal side, in <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2002.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2002<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2003.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2003<\/a>, and <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2008.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2008<\/a>. In these attempts, my high point was just below the Balcony around 27,500 feet (8400 meters) before health, weather, or my judgment forced me to turn back. I also attempted <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/climbs\/lhotse.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lhotse<\/a>\u00a0in\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/lhotse-2015\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2015<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/lhotse-2016\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2016<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n<p>When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did in <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2004.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2004<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2005.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2005<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2006.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2006<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2007.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2007<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2009.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2009<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/2010-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2010,\u00a0<\/a><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2012-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2012<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2013-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2013<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/2014-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2014<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/2015-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2015,\u00a0<\/a><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2016-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2016,<\/a>\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2017-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2017<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2018-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2018<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2019-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2019,<\/a> <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2021-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2021,<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2022-coverage\/\">2022<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2023-coverage\/\">2023<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2024-coverage\/\">2024<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2025-coverage\/\">2025<\/a>, and now the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2026-coverage\/\">2026<\/a> season. In \u00a02020, when both sides of the mountain were closed due to COVID, I ran a virtual series, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/04\/02\/virtual-everest-2020-support-the-sherpas\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Virtual Everest 2020 \u2013 Support the Climbing Sherpas<\/a>, to raise money for the out-of-work Sherpa community working with nine commercial guiding companies.<\/p>\r\n<p>Although the climbing season is still a few months away, I\u2019ll be publishing several big-picture articles before activity ramps up in early April, including:<\/p>\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/13\/everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage\/\">Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage &#8211; An overview of what to expect during the Spring 2026 climbing season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/26\/everest-by-the-numbers-2026-edition\/\">Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition &#8211; A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/28\/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2026-edition\/\">Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; A detailed look at Everest&#8217;s routes, commercial, standard, and non-standard<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/03\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-everest-2026-edition\/\">How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; My annual analysis of Everest climbing costs, from solo and unsupported to fully guided<\/a><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Once the season begins in early April, updates become more frequent and more intense during the summit pushes in mid-to-late May. You can <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/email-notification\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sign up<\/a> for (or cancel) email notifications in the lower-right sidebar, or simply check the site regularly.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2 style=\"font-weight: 400; text-align: left;\"><strong>Why This Coverage?<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n\r\n<figure id=\"attachment_28447\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28447\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-28447 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/Ida-225x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-28447\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ida Arnette<\/figcaption><\/figure>\r\n\r\n<p data-start=\"1370\" data-end=\"1519\">I have one reason for this coverage: <strong>Alzheimer\u2019s<\/strong>. I lost my mother, Ida, and four aunts to the disease. \u00a0Like many families, mine was changed forever, and I don&#8217;t want anyone else to go through this journey.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"1521\" data-end=\"1796\">If this coverage has value to you, I hope you\u2019ll consider supporting Alzheimer\u2019s research or caregivers through the organizations listed on my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/alzheimer\/donate.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">website<\/a>\u2014or any organization you choose. I receive no financial benefit from donations. \u00a0Thank you for reading, and for considering a donation. \u00a0Click the button to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/alzheimer\/donate.php\">donate<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/alzheimer\/donate.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-22234 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/donate100alzheimersround.gif\" alt=\"donate to Alzheimers\" width=\"150\" height=\"45\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p><\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>How I Cover Everest<\/h2>\r\n<p>My goal has always been to provide clear insight and thoughtful analysis\u2014without favorites, sponsors, or hidden agendas. \u00a0I draw on firsthand accounts from the mountain, public data, and my own experience to tell each season\u2019s story as accurately as possible. \u00a0I rely heavily on data from the <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/www.himalayandatabase.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Himalayan Database<\/span><\/a> (HDB) for summit and death statistics. \u00a0The HDB\u2014free to download\u2014documents climbs on Nepalese and Tibetan peaks (excluding Pakistan), dating back to 1905.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Definitions<\/span><\/h2>\r\n<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Before we get going, let&#8217;s define a few terms. I use the HDB terms for climbers and guides, for example, \u201c<strong>hired<\/strong>\u201d refers to support staff, including Sherpas and other ethnic groups such as Tamang, Magar, and Rai; on the north side, Chinese and Tibetan workers fill similar roles. \u00a0&#8220;<strong>Member<\/strong>\u201d typically describes a climber paying for guided support. \u00a0I use \u201cmembers,\u201d \u201cforeigners,\u201d and \u201cWesterners\u201d interchangeably, though some climbers\u2014such as those from South Korea\u2014do not consider themselves Western. \u00a0Refinements to these definitions are welcome:<\/span><\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><strong data-start=\"240\" data-end=\"260\">Acclimatization:<\/strong> A process of repeated climbs to progressively higher camps, with returns to lower elevations to sleep, allowing the body to adapt to reduced oxygen availability. <\/span><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.physio-pedia.com\/Acclimatisation\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">More information<\/span><\/a><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">.<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"446\" data-end=\"463\">Alpine Style:<\/strong> A single, continuous ascent without supplemental oxygen, Sherpa or team support, fixed ropes, or pre-established camps. The climber carries all equipment and supplies, makes no acclimatization rotations, and leaves no trace beyond footprints. Climbs may be solo or in very small teams. Alpine-style ascents of Everest are now extremely rare.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"809\" data-end=\"821\">Attempt:<\/strong> A climber leaving base camp with the intent to reach the summit.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"890\" data-end=\"911\">China\/Tibet side:<\/strong> China\u2019s jurisdiction of Everest\u2019s north side, commonly known as the Northeast Ridge or North Col. I typically use \u201cTibet\u201d when referring to the north side.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"3892\" data-end=\"3922\">\u201cConquering the Mountain\u201d:<\/strong> A misconception. Mountains are climbed and descended; they are not conquered.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"1071\" data-end=\"1100\">Expedition (Siege) Style:<\/strong> A staged ascent involving multiple acclimatization rotations to progressively higher camps. Fixed ropes and ladders are used on technical sections, and camps are often stocked in advance, sometimes by hired personnel. Nearly all modern Everest ascents use an expedition-style approach.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"1378\" data-end=\"1395\">Hired\/Guides:<\/strong> Individuals paid to support or guide Everest climbs, including Sherpas, Tibetans, Western guides, and other hired personnel.\u00a0<span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.himalayandatabase.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">More <\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">information.<\/span><\/a>\u00a0<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"1544\" data-end=\"1564\">Icefall Doctors:<\/strong> A team of approximately ten Sherpas responsible for installing and maintaining the fixed route between Base Camp and Camp 2 on the Nepal side. Managed by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) and funded through permit fees. The term was coined in the early 1990s by Rob Hall and Gary Ball of Adventure Consultants.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Independent Climber<\/span><\/strong><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">: Anyone who is part of a team but climbs alone without a Sherpa or Tibetan support. They use infrastructure such as ladders and ropes, along with the team&#8217;s logistics, to move from base camp to high camps.<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"181\" data-end=\"214\">International Operators<\/strong>\u2014Guide companies based outside Nepal (e.g., the U.S., Europe, Asia, Australia, etc.) that run Everest expeditions but, by regulation, <strong data-start=\"337\" data-end=\"391\">partner with Nepal- or Tibet-based logistics teams for permits and to meet government rules<\/strong>.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"2114\" data-end=\"2133\">Leave No Trace:<\/strong> A commitment to remove all human-made materials from the mountain, including waste, oxygen bottles, ropes, tents, and debris. Nothing is left behind. <a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/lnt.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">More information<\/span><\/a><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">.<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"2307\" data-end=\"2319\">Members:<\/strong> Individuals who pay to be part of an expedition, including those who use only base camp services and climb independently above base camp.<span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">\u00a0<\/span><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.himalayandatabase.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">More information<\/span><\/a><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">.<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Nepal side: <\/span><\/strong>Nepal\u2019s jurisdiction of Everest\u2019s south side, commonly referred to as the Southeast Ridge or South Col route<strong><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">.<\/span><\/strong><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"2610\" data-end=\"2621\">No O\u2019s:<\/strong> Climbers who do not use supplemental oxygen at any point, including while sleeping or during descent. Fewer than 3% of all Everest summiteers have climbed without oxygen. Of the 327 recorded Everest deaths since 1924, 178 (54%) occurred without supplemental oxygen.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><strong data-start=\"2891\" data-end=\"2915\">Pre-Acclimatization:<\/strong> A technique in which climbers sleep at home in altitude tents connected to oxygen-reducing generators prior to arriving on the mountain. Commonly used on expeditions lasting less than three weeks (\u201crapid\u201d or \u201cflash\u201d climbs). Some studies suggest acclimatization equivalent to elevations up to 7,000 meters. <\/span><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/hypoxico.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">More information<\/span><\/a><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"3246\" data-end=\"3259\">Rotation:<\/strong> A staged climb used in expedition style to establish higher camps and promote acclimatization, with repeated ascents and descents between camps. Modern Everest teams typically complete two to five rotations, sometimes supplemented by climbs of nearby peaks, before arriving at base camp.\u00a0<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"3550\" data-end=\"3567\">Solo Climber:<\/strong> A climber who ascends entirely alone without teammates, Sherpa or Tibetan support, fixed ropes, ladders, or shared logistics. The climber carries all equipment, establishes all camps, and prepares all meals above base camp.\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/reinhold-messner.de\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">More information<\/span><\/a><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong>Summit<\/strong>: When a climber reaches the summit, regardless of outcome on descent , without external transport assistance, e.g., aviation, animal, or carried.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong>Team Member Summit Success Rate: <\/strong>the number of members who summit divided by the total number of members who initially arrived at base camp.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><strong data-start=\"3815\" data-end=\"3827\">Western:<\/strong> Any climber, guide, or company based outside Nepal or Tibet.\u00a0<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>2025 Review<\/h2>\r\n<p>Strong winds, drones, demanding climbing, and increasingly sophisticated logistics defined the 2025 Everest spring season. Frostbite cases and helicopter evacuations were common, though many incidents likely went unreported. Once again, Everest reminded climbers that at 8,848 meters, preparation is non-negotiable.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"596\" data-end=\"840\">According to the Himalayan Database\u2019s December 2025 update, <strong data-start=\"656\" data-end=\"691\">851 climbers reached the summit<\/strong> during the spring season \u2014 <strong data-start=\"719\" data-end=\"737\">731 from Nepal<\/strong> and <strong data-start=\"742\" data-end=\"760\">120 from Tibet<\/strong> \u2014 making 2025 the <strong data-start=\"779\" data-end=\"821\">third-busiest Everest season on record<\/strong>, behind only 2019.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"842\" data-end=\"1137\">On the South side, <strong data-start=\"861\" data-end=\"906\">303 members were supported by 428 Sherpas<\/strong>, a <strong data-start=\"910\" data-end=\"933\">1.4:1 support ratio<\/strong> that reflects the growing need for assistance among less experienced climbers. The North side saw <strong data-start=\"1032\" data-end=\"1061\">68 members and 52 Sherpas<\/strong>, a <strong data-start=\"1065\" data-end=\"1081\">0.76:1 ratio<\/strong>, consistent with its appeal to more seasoned alpinists.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"1139\" data-end=\"1472\">Men accounted for <strong data-start=\"1157\" data-end=\"1172\">766 summits<\/strong> (56% success rate), while <strong data-start=\"1199\" data-end=\"1211\">85 women<\/strong> reached the top with a notably higher <strong data-start=\"1250\" data-end=\"1270\">76% success rate<\/strong>, continuing a strong upward trend in women\u2019s participation and performance. Nearly every climber used supplemental oxygen \u2014 <strong data-start=\"1395\" data-end=\"1411\">all but four<\/strong> \u2014 highlighting its central role in modern Everest support.<\/p>\r\n<h3><strong>Route Performance<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p>Some of the best mountaineering guides had stellar days, proving that Everest can be climbed without crowds or drama.\u00a0On the <strong>South<\/strong> side, 63% of members with permits (303 of 481) summited. <a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/cat-dispatches\/everest\/everest-2025\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a> summarized their summit experience:<\/p>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>&#8220;Our Mount Everest team just returned to Kathmandu after a successful summit on May 23rd. They enjoyed a perfect summit day with no crowds\u2014a rare gift on the world\u2019s highest peak\u2014and had the top of the world entirely to themselves!&#8221;<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<p>The <strong>North <\/strong>side posted a much higher rate of 86% (68 of 79). <a href=\"https:\/\/alpenglowexpeditions.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alpenglow<\/a> noted:<\/p>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>&#8220;This spring, our Alpenglow Expeditions team returned to the North Side of Mount Everest with a small crew and a big plan. After months of preparation, pre-acclimatization, and weather watching, our Everest expedition 2025 culminated in an incredibly rare summit day\u2014blue skies, no wind, and a quiet mountain.&#8221;<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<h3><strong>Losses and Lessons<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p>Tragically, five climbers died last season, all on the Nepal side, resulting in a fatality rate of approximately 0.6% of summits, among the lowest on record, reflecting improvements in logistics, weather forecasting, and guided expeditions. Still, each number represents a human life and a reminder of Everest\u2019s narrow margin for error.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<h3><strong>Rescues<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;opi=89978449&amp;url=https:\/\/www.globalrescue.com\/common\/blog\/detail\/mount-everest-2025-climbing-travel-update\/&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjS0fW0rOORAxUIl2oFHb4KJW8QFnoECDcQAQ&amp;usg=AOvVaw30-td25SWMlnuiwyMWqXWy\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Global Rescue<\/a>, a widely respected evacuation provider, reported a dramatic increase in rescues during April and May 2025, again pointing to a growing number of inexperienced members or underprepared operators.<\/p>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>&#8220;We handle several rescue operations every day throughout the spring Everest climbing season, keeping our team engaged from before sunrise well into the night,&#8221; said Dan Stretch, a Global Rescue operations manager who has overseen more than 500 evacuations and crisis responses in the Himalayas. &#8220;At peak activity, our medical and rescue teams have performed up to 25 rescues in a single day, sometimes more.&#8221;<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<h3><strong>Summit Records<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p data-start=\"2432\" data-end=\"2463\">Several achievements stood out:<\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"2467\" data-end=\"2540\"><strong data-start=\"2467\" data-end=\"2492\">Kami Rita Sherpa<\/strong> (55) completed an unmatched <strong data-start=\"2516\" data-end=\"2539\">32nd Everest summit<\/strong>.<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"2543\" data-end=\"2618\"><strong data-start=\"2543\" data-end=\"2563\">Kenton Cool <\/strong>(51) extended his non-Sherpa record with a <strong data-start=\"2602\" data-end=\"2617\">19th ascent<\/strong>.<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"2621\" data-end=\"2757\"><strong data-start=\"2621\" data-end=\"2641\">Anja Blacha<\/strong> (34) became the <strong data-start=\"2653\" data-end=\"2713\">first German woman to summit without supplemental oxygen<\/strong>, doing so on the season\u2019s final summit day.<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"2760\" data-end=\"2857\"><strong data-start=\"2760\" data-end=\"2780\">Saad bin Munawar<\/strong> became the <strong data-start=\"2792\" data-end=\"2856\">first Pakistani <\/strong>climber to <strong data-start=\"2792\" data-end=\"2856\">summit from the North Side<\/strong> in May.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h3><strong>What the Season Taught Us<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p data-start=\"2998\" data-end=\"3048\">The season reinforced several long-running trends:<\/p>\r\n<ul data-start=\"3050\" data-end=\"3974\">\r\n\t<li data-start=\"3050\" data-end=\"3258\">\r\n<p data-start=\"3052\" data-end=\"3258\"><strong data-start=\"3052\" data-end=\"3076\">Shorter expeditions:<\/strong><br data-start=\"3076\" data-end=\"3079\" \/>\r\nAverage time from arrival at base camp to summit dropped to <strong data-start=\"3115\" data-end=\"3126\">28 days<\/strong>, down from 33 in 2019 and 48 in 2000. Pre-acclimatization \u2014 both on nearby peaks and at home using hypoxic tents \u2014 is now more popular than ever.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"3260\" data-end=\"3450\">\r\n<p data-start=\"3262\" data-end=\"3450\"><strong data-start=\"3262\" data-end=\"3288\">Higher support ratios:<\/strong><br data-start=\"3288\" data-end=\"3291\" \/>\r\nOn the South side, <strong data-start=\"3312\" data-end=\"3338\">1.5 Sherpas per member<\/strong> has become the norm, with some teams operating at <strong data-start=\"3389\" data-end=\"3406\">2:1 or higher<\/strong>, especially when using supplemental oxygen, which requires a second Sherpa to carry the extra oxygen.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"3452\" data-end=\"3633\">\r\n<p data-start=\"3454\" data-end=\"3633\"><strong data-start=\"3454\" data-end=\"3482\">Standardized operations:<\/strong><br data-start=\"3482\" data-end=\"3485\" \/>\r\nEverest has become a formula climb, with fixed routes, consistent camp locations, and centralized rope management by Nepal\u2019s expedition operators.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"3635\" data-end=\"3785\">\r\n<p data-start=\"3637\" data-end=\"3785\"><strong data-start=\"3637\" data-end=\"3656\">Rising comfort:<\/strong><br data-start=\"3656\" data-end=\"3659\" \/>\r\nInternet access, heated tents, real beds, and multi-course meals are now common, despite regulatory attempts to curb excess.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"3787\" data-end=\"3974\">\r\n<p data-start=\"3789\" data-end=\"3974\"><strong data-start=\"3789\" data-end=\"3818\">Weather remains decisive:<\/strong><br data-start=\"3818\" data-end=\"3821\" \/>\r\nJet stream variability, unstable windows, and congestion at traditional bottlenecks continue to define success or failure more than fitness or guiding.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h3><strong>Everest in Context<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p data-start=\"5760\" data-end=\"6065\">Viewed historically, Everest has become markedly safer despite increased traffic. Between <strong data-start=\"5850\" data-end=\"5867\">1923 and 1999<\/strong>, there were <strong data-start=\"5880\" data-end=\"5912\">1,170 summits and 170 deaths<\/strong>, a fatality rate of <strong data-start=\"5933\" data-end=\"5942\">14.5%. <\/strong><b>From<\/b>\u00a0<strong data-start=\"5949\" data-end=\"5965\">2000 to 2025<\/strong>, climbers achieved <strong data-start=\"5985\" data-end=\"6019\">12,567 summits with 169 deaths<\/strong>, reducing the fatality rate to approximately <strong data-start=\"6056\" data-end=\"6064\">1.3%<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"6067\" data-end=\"6237\">Several years stand out for <strong>elevated death tolls<\/strong>: <strong>1996, 2014, 2015, 2019, and 2023, <\/strong>largely due to natural disasters such as serac collapses, earthquakes, and avalanches.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"6239\" data-end=\"6552\">On the Nepal side, <strong data-start=\"6258\" data-end=\"6314\">approximately 33% of member fatalities (75 climbers)<\/strong> occurred during the descent, when exhaustion overtakes climbers&#8217; strength, while <strong data-start=\"6373\" data-end=\"6398\">23 died during ascent<\/strong>. On the Tibetan side, <strong data-start=\"6421\" data-end=\"6442\">51 climbers (46%)<\/strong> died on descent and <strong data-start=\"6463\" data-end=\"6483\">12 during ascent<\/strong>. Remaining deaths occurred during route preparation or at base camp.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"6554\" data-end=\"6946\">Across the world\u2019s highest mountains, death rates continue to decline due to higher support ratios, reliable oxygen systems operating at flows up to <strong data-start=\"6703\" data-end=\"6726\">8 liters per minute<\/strong>, improved climbing gear, accurate forecasting, and professional guiding on standardized routes. While Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths (<strong data-start=\"6876\" data-end=\"6883\">339<\/strong>), its death rate is relatively low at <strong data-start=\"6922\" data-end=\"6945\">approximately 1.07%<\/strong> among the fourteen 8000-meter mountains.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"6948\" data-end=\"6962\">By comparison:<\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"6965\" data-end=\"7070\"><strong data-start=\"6965\" data-end=\"6980\">Annapurna I<\/strong> has recorded roughly <strong data-start=\"7002\" data-end=\"7015\">75 deaths<\/strong> against <strong data-start=\"7024\" data-end=\"7039\">510 summits<\/strong>, a fatality rate near <strong data-start=\"7062\" data-end=\"7069\">15%<\/strong>.<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"7073\" data-end=\"7229\"><strong data-start=\"7073\" data-end=\"7079\">K2<\/strong> has reduced its fatality rate from about <strong data-start=\"7121\" data-end=\"7162\">25% historically to roughly 12% today<\/strong>, largely due to commercialization and strong Sherpa-led logistics.<\/li>\r\n\t<li data-start=\"7232\" data-end=\"7326\"><strong data-start=\"7232\" data-end=\"7243\">Cho Oyu<\/strong> remains the safest 8,000-meter peak at <strong data-start=\"7283\" data-end=\"7292\">0.53%<\/strong>, followed by <strong data-start=\"7306\" data-end=\"7325\">Lhotse at 0.62%<\/strong>.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>As for the 2025 summits, the Himalayan Database reported in December 2025, based on numbers reported by the Nepal government:<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Summits and Deaths for 2025<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<table class=\" aligncenter\" style=\"height: 554px; width: 81.414627%;\">\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">\u00a0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\"><strong>NEPAL<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\"><strong>TIBET<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\"><strong>TOTAL<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">Members<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\">303<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\">68<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\">371<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">Hired<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\">428<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\">52<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\">480<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"background-color: #d4d4d4;\">\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 37.284895%; height: 10px;\"><strong>TOTAL Summits<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 17.017208%; height: 10px;\"><strong>731<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 15.678776%; height: 10px;\"><strong>120<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 15.105163%; height: 10px;\"><strong>851<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"background-color: #d4d4d4; height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 37.284895%; height: 10px;\">% of Total<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 17.017208%; height: 10px;\">91%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 15.678776%; height: 10px;\">9%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 15.105163%; height: 10px;\">\u00a0<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 37.284895%;\">Summit Rate<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 17.017208%;\">68%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 15.678776%;\">67%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"border-color: #d9d4d4; width: 15.105163%;\">68%<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">Member Deaths<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\">2<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\">2<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">Hired Deaths<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\">3<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\">3<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"background-color: #d4d4d4; height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\"><strong>TOTAL Deaths<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\"><strong>5<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\"><strong>0<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\"><strong>5<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">% of Total<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\">\u00a0100%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\">\u00a00%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\">\u00a0<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 37.284895%; height: 24px;\">Death Ratio<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 17.017208%; height: 24px;\">~1%<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.678776%; height: 24px;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.105163%; height: 24px;\">~1%<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<p data-start=\"4884\" data-end=\"5151\">Safety on Everest continues to correlate strongly with experience, support, and cost. In 2023 and 2024, 23 of 26 fatalities occurred on expeditions priced below the median, reinforcing a hard truth: on Everest, cutting costs often means cutting margins for error. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2024-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Continue reading about Everest 2024<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>2026 Preview<\/h2>\r\n<p data-start=\"204\" data-end=\"703\">For spring <strong data-start=\"716\" data-end=\"724\">2026<\/strong>, I expect <strong data-start=\"735\" data-end=\"790\">900 to 1,000 total summits from both sides combined<\/strong>, exceeding the previous high-water mark set in <strong data-start=\"838\" data-end=\"846\">2019<\/strong>, when <strong data-start=\"853\" data-end=\"869\">877 climbers<\/strong> summited (661 from Nepal, 216 from Tibet. A realistic breakdown for 2026 would include <strong data-start=\"949\" data-end=\"991\">at least 225 summits on the Tibet side<\/strong> (members and hired combined) and <strong data-start=\"1025\" data-end=\"1053\">well over 800 from Nepal<\/strong>, compared to <strong data-start=\"1067\" data-end=\"1112\">731 from Nepal and 120 from Tibet in 2025<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n<p><strong>Nepal<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<p>Operationally, expect continued drone use, particularly in the Khumbu Icefall, to support the Icefall Doctors by ferrying ropes, ladders, and equipment across the Icefall, reducing the number of heavy-load carries and lowering Sherpas&#8217; exposure to falling or collapsing ice structures. Drones are also expected to play a larger role in removing waste from high camps, helping clean the mountain without adding to Sherpa workloads.<\/p>\r\n<p>Over the past year, Nepal has announced multiple new rules in the <a href=\"https:\/\/na.parliament.gov.np\/en\/bills\/yZP38v3o\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tourism Bill 2081<\/a> that have not yet been approved. You can follow its current status at this <a href=\"https:\/\/na.parliament.gov.np\/en\/bills\/yZP38v3o\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">link<\/a>, which is listed as &#8220;Discussion in Committee&#8221; as of January 2026.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>Among the new rules from Nepal is a proposal to eliminate the $4,000 refundable trash deposit per expedition and replace it with a nonrefundable $4,000 fee per climber to fund a Sherpa-staffed checkpoint at Camp 2 that will monitor that climbers bring down what they\u2019ve brought up. It&#8217;s unclear how operators will manage this new fee when or if it goes into effect, i.e., absorb it or pass all or part of it on to members.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>Nepal\u2019s decision, implemented in September 2025 to raise the Everest climbing permit for foreign climbers from $11,000 to $15,000, is unlikely to significantly reduce overall demand. Price competition among lower-cost Nepalese operators remains intense, while demand for premium, fully guided expeditions led by foreign operators continues to grow. However, the higher permit fee may push a modest number of climbers toward the Tibetan side, particularly those seeking fewer crowds and a more controlled climbing environment. Note that this permit increase is in addition to the proposed $4,000 trash fee.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"204\" data-end=\"703\">So, where does the extra $4,000 in the permit fee go? Nepal insists it will be reinvested in maintaining a clean and orderly mountain, but has an uneven track record of implementing and enforcing any new rule.<\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li>\r\n<p><strong>Rescue and Safety Infrastructure<\/strong>: A portion of the fees will fund upgraded on-mountain medical facilities and a more robust rescue response system. The goal is to reduce response times for high-altitude emergencies, which reached a breaking point during the heavy 2023 and 2025 seasons.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li>\r\n<p>E<strong>nvironmental Conservation<\/strong>: Revenue is directed to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) and other waste management initiatives. This includes funding the removal of decades-old trash and abandoned gear from the higher camps (Camp 3 and Camp 4).<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li>\r\n<p><strong>Local Community Development<\/strong>: By law, a percentage of permit royalties must be distributed to the local district. These funds are used for schools, clinics, and infrastructure (such as bridges and trails) in the Khumbu region, ensuring that the communities that support Everest receive direct benefits.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n\t<li>\r\n<p><strong>Staff Wages<\/strong>: New regulations have increased the minimum daily pay floors for Sherpas, Sirdars, and Liaison Offices. The permit hike helps subsidize the increased administrative and insurance costs associated with these higher labor standards.<\/p>\r\n<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>Beyond the previously mentioned changes, there is widespread confusion about a set of new rules proposed by the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, as I described in a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2025\/09\/03\/everest-just-became-more-expensive-and-unattractive-to-some\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">post<\/a> last year. The most significant change is that all Everest permit applicants must have <strong>climbed a 7000-meter peak in\u00a0<\/strong><b>Nepal<\/b>. Note that <strong>Aconcagua<\/strong> or <strong>Denali<\/strong> would not qualify you to climb Everest.<\/p>\r\n<p><strong>Tibet<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400;\">China has returned to normal operations after a few years disrupted by the pandemic. From 2019 to 2022, only Chinese scientists and technicians were allowed to climb, and they installed and maintained a weather station near the summit.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Unlike Nepal, which has no limit on the number of permits issued for Everest, China has a maximum of 300 annual permits for hired and member teams. The only time there were more summits than 300 was in 2007, when 197 members, supported by 178 hired, reached the top, totaling 375. Since 2010, the median has been well under the quota of 153 people, so this should not be an issue in 2026. However, we may see the North side crowds increase in 2026 as Nepal&#8217;s price increase for the Everest takes effect.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Only a few Western companies, including Alpenglow Expeditions, Furtenbach Adventures, Kobler &amp; Partner, and Summit Climb, regularly, but not always, \u00a0guide on the Tibetan side. Most established Nepalese and Tibetan operators run expeditions, such as Lhasa-based Yala Xiangbo Mountaineering Adventure Co., Climbalaya, and Seven Summits Treks.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There are a few new rules for this season, but, as usual, China does not publish them publicly; it announces them only to selected operators. For example, last year they announced that all climbers must use supplemental oxygen on all three of their 8000-meter peaks, but not every operator received that guidance. Also, they announced that for 2026, all Everest climbers must have climbed a 7,000-meter peak. It&#8217;s unclear whether any of these requirements are enforced; for example, last year several climbers summited 8000ers in Tibet without supplemental oxygen.<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2026-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Follow the 2026 Everest Coverage!<\/a><\/h2>\r\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/email-notification\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Click here to subscribe to notifications for new blog posts.<\/a><\/div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2 style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>Everest Guides<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n<p>A significant shift in the guiding industry began around 2013. That was when Nepalese expedition operators began marketing Everest expeditions and the other 8000ers at low prices, using well-designed websites. Unlike foreign guides, Nepalese companies do not have to pay permit fees for Nepalese guides and traditionally pay lower wages. These savings are passed on to their clients through lower prices.<\/p>\r\n<p>This business model attracted a new demographic of price-conscious climbers, mainly from China, India and Southeast Asia. One of their marketing promises was, &#8220;No experience required; we&#8217;ll teach you everything you need to know on the mountain.&#8221; This business model has been very successful, albeit with an increase in proportional deaths andrescues.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Who guides on Everest continues to consolidate. Longtime companies still run annual expeditions. These include Nepalese operators such as Asian Trekking and Western guides Alpine Ascents International, Summit Climb, International Mountain Guides, and Himex (now sold and inactive on Everest). These outfits created the Everest climbing industry. They are now joined by relatively recent newcomers (the last 10 years), such as Climbing the Seven Summits, Furtenbach Adventures, Madison Mountaineering, and Mountain Professionals. These companies\u2019 prices range from $57,995 (<a href=\"https:\/\/climbingthesevensummits.com\/sherpa-supported-climb-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Climbing the Seven Summits&#8217; Sherpa-Supported Climb<\/a>) to $230,000 (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.furtenbachadventures.com\/en\/trips\/everest-signature-north\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Furtenbach Adventures\u2013Signature Expedition<\/a>).<\/p>\r\n<p>The most prominent Nepalese-owned operators may have over 100 members, compared with 20 or fewer on Western guiding trips. These Nepalese outfits include 8K Expeditions, 14 Peaks Expeditions, Asian Trekking, Elite Expeditions, Imagine Nepal, Pioneer, and Seven Summits Treks. Smaller Nepalese companies include Arun Treks, Ascent Himalaya, Climbalaya, Satori Adventures, and Thamserku. Today, there are around 2,000 &#8220;trekking&#8221; agencies registered in Nepal. Most Nepalese guides charge between $30,000 and $50,000 for either side of Everest.<\/p>\r\n<p>The best operators use professional guides who are UIAGM\/AMGA\/IFMGA-certified. They charge more for this expertise, but it can be a life-or-death difference if you encounter an emergency, such as an injury or altitude issues. Remember that not everyone called a &#8220;guide&#8221; is a qualified guide. Each company can call its staff whatever it likes.<\/p>\r\n<h2 style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>2026 Demographics = Crowds<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n<p>Given the dynamics discussed, I expect another year of crowds on Everest. Crowding is a disturbing trend that began several years ago. Low prices continue to attract climbers with little experience, as shown by the nightmare line of people between the South Summit and the Summit in 2019. Members struggled with altitude and moved too slowly, and the guides failed to manage the clients, allowing the line to clog the system. This scenario was like following a frustratingly slow driver on a one-way mountain road with steep drop-offs on both sides, with no way to pass.<\/p>\r\n<p>The best guides will use professional weather forecasts to select a suitable weather window of several days when summit winds are under 30 mph. They will let the rush that always occurs just after the ropes are fixed to the summit subside before going for their summit push. The best companies have used this strategy for years, achieving excellent summit success and safety.<\/p>\r\n<h2><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Bugs to a Light<\/span><\/h2>\r\n<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">Everest has an immutable attraction that is oddly perverse. When there is a record number of deaths, the following season has more climbers than the previous deadly one. For example:<\/span><\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2006: <strong>11<\/strong> deaths, 494 summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2007: 7 deaths, <strong>634<\/strong> summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2012: <strong>10<\/strong> deaths, 581 summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2013: 8 deaths, <strong>684<\/strong> summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2014*: <strong>16<\/strong> deaths, 134 summits\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2016: 5 deaths, <strong>679<\/strong> summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2023: <strong>18<\/strong> deaths, 668 summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2024: 8 Deaths, <strong>787<\/strong> summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n\t<li><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">2025: 5 Deaths, 851 summits<\/span><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">* The 2014 season ended early when 16 Sherpas died in the Icefall. 2015 closed because of the earthquake.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">The pattern is clear: higher death years rarely deter future demand. We&#8217;ll see what 2026 brings, but history suggests it will be a big year, especially with the North open and potential changes to Nepal&#8217;s eligibility requirements encouraging climbers to climb now to avoid them. <\/span><\/p>\r\n<h2>Risks and Wildcards for 2026<\/h2>\r\n<p data-start=\"273\" data-end=\"400\">Despite strong indicators pointing toward a record-setting season, several variables could meaningfully alter outcomes in 2026:<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"402\" data-end=\"761\"><strong data-start=\"402\" data-end=\"461\">Weather volatility remains the single largest wildcard.<\/strong><br data-start=\"461\" data-end=\"464\" \/>\r\nJet stream instability over the Himalaya continues to produce shorter, less predictable summit windows. A single stalled weather system in mid-to-late May could compress summit attempts into fewer days, like in 2019, sharply increasing congestion or cutting the season short, regardless of preparation.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"763\" data-end=\"1069\"><strong data-start=\"763\" data-end=\"810\">Nepal\u2013China border policy and access to Tibet.<\/strong><br data-start=\"810\" data-end=\"813\" \/>\r\nThe Tibetan side remains sensitive to political and regulatory shifts. Changes in Chinese border policy, permit availability, or expedition caps could quickly reduce North side access \u2014 or, conversely, open the door to increased traffic if restrictions ease.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"1071\" data-end=\"1339\"><strong data-start=\"1071\" data-end=\"1100\">Khumbu Icefall stability.<\/strong><br data-start=\"1100\" data-end=\"1103\" \/>\r\nWhile drones and reduced loads may lower Sherpa risks, the Icefall itself remains inherently unstable. A major serac collapse early in the season could delay route fixing, restrict traffic, or temporarily close the South side.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"1341\" data-end=\"1614\"><strong data-start=\"1341\" data-end=\"1373\">Operator quality divergence.<\/strong><br data-start=\"1373\" data-end=\"1376\" \/>\r\nThe growing gap between well-capitalized, professional operators and low-cost providers remains a risk. Substandard logistics, oxygen mismanagement, or inexperienced guiding could lead to localized incidents that ripple across the season.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"1616\" data-end=\"1839\"><strong data-start=\"1616\" data-end=\"1647\">Rescue capacity saturation.<\/strong><br data-start=\"1647\" data-end=\"1650\" \/>\r\nWith higher climber numbers and shorter summit windows, helicopter and high-altitude medical resources could be stretched thin during peak periods, especially if weather limits flight days.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"2090\" data-end=\"2292\"><strong data-start=\"2090\" data-end=\"2132\">Geopolitical and regulatory surprises.<\/strong><br data-start=\"2132\" data-end=\"2135\" \/>\r\nSudden policy changes \u2014 whether related to aviation, drones, insurance, visas, or expedition oversight \u2014 could quickly reshape the season with little notice.<\/p>\r\n<p data-start=\"2299\" data-end=\"2576\"><strong data-start=\"2299\" data-end=\"2315\">Bottom line:<\/strong><br data-start=\"2315\" data-end=\"2318\" \/>\r\nDemand, technology, and logistics continue to push Everest toward higher summit totals, but <strong data-start=\"2410\" data-end=\"2459\">weather, access, and systemic capacity limits<\/strong> remain the ultimate governors. In 2026, the margin between a record season and a disrupted one will again be narrow.<\/p>\r\n<p>Here&#8217;s to a safe season for everyone on the Big Hill.<\/p>\r\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\r\nAlan<br \/>\r\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\" style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2026-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Follow the 2026 Everest Coverage!<\/a><\/h2>\r\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/email-notification\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Click here to subscribe to notifications for new blog posts.<\/a><\/div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n<p>You can listen to #everest2026 <strong>podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">Preparing for Everest is more than Training<\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitcoach.org\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-24764 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg\" alt=\"summit coach\" width=\"200\" height=\"79\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: left; padding-left: 120px;\">If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help.\u00a0<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitcoach.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Summit Coach<\/a><\/strong> is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized approach based on Alan Arnette\u2019s 30 years of high-altitude mountaineering experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitcoach.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Summit Coach website<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2><strong>Everest Pictures and Video<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14px;\">\u00a9 All content and images owned and copyrighted by Alan Arnette unless noted. Unauthorized use and reproduction are strictly prohibited without specific permission.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-48862 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/everest-and-lhotse-from-pumori\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-and-Lhotse-from-Pumori-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Climbing in the Khumbu Icefall\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24978\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24978'>\n\t\t\t\tEverest (left) and Lhotse (back center) plus Nuptse (right) with Khumbu Ice Fall (lower center) and Western Cwm (middle)\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/everest-base-camp-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Base-Camp-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Everest Base Camp\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24979\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24979'>\n\t\t\t\tEverest Base Camp\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/khumbu-icefall-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Khumbu-Icefall-1-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Khumbu Icefall\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24990\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24990'>\n\t\t\t\tKhumbu Icefall\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/climbers-in-the-khumbu-icefall-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Climbers-in-the-Khumbu-Icefall-1-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Climbers in the Khumbu Icefall\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24989\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24989'>\n\t\t\t\tClimbers in the Khumbu Icefall\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/climbing-in-the-khumbu-icefall\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Climbing-in-the-Khumbu-Icefall-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Climbing in the Khumbu Icefall\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24977\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24977'>\n\t\t\t\tClimbing in the Khumbu Icefall\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/khumbu-icefall-top\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Khumbu-Icefall-top-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Khumbu Icefall top\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24983\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24983'>\n\t\t\t\tKhumbu Icefall top\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/img_1359\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/IMG_1359-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Camp 1\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24981\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24981'>\n\t\t\t\tCamp 1\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/camp-1-in-western-cwm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp-1-in-Western-Cwm-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Camp 1 in Western Cwm\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24972\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24972'>\n\t\t\t\tCamp 1 in Western Cwm\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/camp2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp2-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Camp 2\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24974\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp2-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp2-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24974'>\n\t\t\t\tCamp 2\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/img_1391-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/IMG_1391-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Camp 2\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24982\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24982'>\n\t\t\t\tCamp 2\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/camp3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp3-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Camp 3\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24975\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp3-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp3-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24975'>\n\t\t\t\tCamp 3\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/lhotse-face-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Lhotse-Face-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Lhotse Face\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24985\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Lhotse-Face-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Lhotse-Face-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Lhotse-Face-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24985'>\n\t\t\t\tLhotse Face\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/camp-3-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp-3-1-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Camp 3\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24988\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp-3-1-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp-3-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Camp-3-1-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24988'>\n\t\t\t\tCamp 3\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/south-col\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/South-Col-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"South Col\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24986\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/South-Col-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/South-Col-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/South-Col-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24986'>\n\t\t\t\tSouth Col with Pyramid Face that leads to Balcony and the SE Ridge to the South Summit and then the Summit\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/southcol\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/SouthCol-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"SouthCol\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24987\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/SouthCol-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/SouthCol-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/SouthCol-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24987'>\n\t\t\t\tSouthCol\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2012\/05\/22\/everest-2012-above-the-death-zone\/lhotseview\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/05\/lhotseview-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Everest Southeast Ridge in 2011 as seen from Lhotse\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-10369\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-10369'>\n\t\t\t\tEverest Southeast Ridge in 2011 as seen from Lhotse\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2010\/11\/13\/taking-photos-of-the-7-summits\/p1010945\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/P1010945-225x169.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Climbing the Hillary Step\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-3529\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-3529'>\n\t\t\t\t2011 Hillary Step by Brad Jackson\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/18\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest\/alan-on-the-summit-of-everest-may-21-2011-500am-3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-225x169.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Alan on the summit of Everest May 21, 2011 5:00AM\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-24980\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-640x480.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-24980'>\n\t\t\t\tAlan on the summit of Everest May 21, 2011 5:00AM\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\r\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/GybCbOYizzI\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"><\/iframe><\/p>\r\n<p>A tour of Everest Base Camp by Alan Arnette<\/p>\r\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12px;\"><em>Alan Arnette became the oldest American to summit K2 in 2014. He has also made six expeditions to Everest or Lhotse, including<\/em><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12px;\"><em>\u00a0a summit of <\/em><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12px;\"><em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2011.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Everest<\/a><\/em><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12px;\"><em> in 2011. He climbs to raise money and awareness of <\/em><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12px;\"><em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/alzheimer\/memoriesareeverything.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alzheimer&#8217;s<\/a><\/em><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12px;\"><em> disease.<\/em><\/span><\/p><!-- \/wp:post-content -->","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you\u2019re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you\u2019re new here, thanks for joining me.<\/p>\n<p>I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain three other times (all from the Nepalese side): 2002,\u00a02003, and 2008. On these attempts, I reached just below the Balcony around 27,500 feet (8400 meters) before health, weather, or my judgment caused me to turn back. I also attempted Lhotse\u00a0in\u00a02015\u00a0and\u00a02016.<\/p>\n<p>Although the climbing season is still a few months away, I\u2019ll publish several big-picture articles before activity ramps up in early April.  Once the season begins in early April, updates become more frequent and intensify during the summit pushes of mid-to-late May. You can sign up for (or cancel) email notifications in the lower-right sidebar, or simply check the site regularly. #everest2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":25629,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,828,81,216],"tags":[432,448,829,439,595],"class_list":["post-48862","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2026-coverage","category-everest-news","category-everest-popular-posts","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2026-coverage","tag-everest-news","tag-everest-popular-posts"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/everestsouthroutemap.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/48862","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=48862"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/48862\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/25629"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=48862"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=48862"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=48862"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}