{"id":49130,"date":"2026-03-17T09:40:14","date_gmt":"2026-03-17T15:40:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49130"},"modified":"2026-03-17T10:56:19","modified_gmt":"2026-03-17T16:56:19","slug":"everest-2026-north-side-closed-new-rules-in-effect-everest-2026-season-update","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/17\/everest-2026-north-side-closed-new-rules-in-effect-everest-2026-season-update\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: North Side Closed, New Rules in Effect: Everest 2026 Season Update"},"content":{"rendered":"
The spring\u00a02026 Everest climbing season is just around the corner. The Icefall doctors are already at Base Camp, preparing to fix the ropes to Camp 2 in the upper Western Cwm. Many expedition teams have already sent Sherpas to reserve their traditional spots and have begun building tent platforms. In other words, the annual small tent city is taking shape.<\/div>\n
\nPerhaps the most significant development so far is the unexplained closure of Everest to climbers on the Tibet side. I recently attended a screening of the Sherpa documentary “Zero to 8848<\/a>” (excellent!) and a fundraiser for the Colorado Sherpa Association, where I spoke with many Sherpas about the Everest Tibet side closure. One guide company owner said he thought the closure was due to \u201crestoration,” but he wasn’t sure.<\/div>\n
\nAdditionally, when speaking with Western guides who usually run North-side expeditions, they tell me that the CTMA has not provided a specific reason for the closure and has not initiated the climber application process, which normally begins in early March. So, the closure was de facto, not explicitly stated.<\/div>\n
\nOn the Nepal side, there is confusion about the proposed requirement that all Everest applicants must have summited a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal. This law was part of the\u00a0Tourism Bill 2081<\/a>, introduced into Nepal’s government approval process last year. The Upper House has passed the bill, but it still needs approval\u00a0by the Lower House and\u00a0the President’s signature. Therefore, it is not in effect for the 2026 spring season.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
Opinions differ on whether this law will be passed as is, with many hoping the \u201cin Nepal\u201d requirement is changed to \u201cworldwide\u201d or that specific peaks are included, such as any 8000-meter mountain, Aconcagua, Ama Dablam, Peak Lenin, Mount Kun, and others. You can follow its current status at this\u00a0link<\/a>, which shows “Discussion in Committee” as of March 2026.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
One rule that will be enforced starting this season is\u00a0that each member must bring down 2kg\/4.41 lb\u00a0of waste from Camp 2 and above, excluding oxygen bottles and\u00a0human feces.\u00a0Expedition members may\u00a0not\u00a0use their own WAG bags and must\u00a0use the bags provided by the SPCC. This will\u00a0be in addition to the current rule requiring each member to deposit\u00a08kg\/17.6 lb of garbage at Everest Base Camp at the end of their expeditions.<\/div>\n
\nRegarding\u00a0summits, with the looming 7000-meter requirement,\u00a0an unintended consequence may be a rush of less-experienced climbers attempting the mountain this season\u00a0before the requirement takes effect next year.\u00a0\u00a0I had predicted 900 to 1,000 total summits from both sides combined, exceeding the previous high set in\u00a02019, when\u00a0877 climbers\u00a0summited (661 from Nepal, 216 from Tibet). However, with the North side closed, I anticipate around 125 climbers, both members and hired staff, will shift to the south side. Therefore, we can realistically expect between 850 and 900 combined summits, compared to the 731 from Nepal in 2025.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Operationally, expect continued experimenting with drone use, particularly in the Khumbu Icefall, to support the Icefall Doctors by ferrying ropes, ladders, and equipment across the Icefall, thereby reducing the number of heavy-load carries and lowering Sherpas’ exposure to falling or collapsing ice structures. Drones are also expected to play a larger role in removing waste from high camps, helping clean the mountain without adding to Sherpa workloads.<\/div>\n
\nHere\u2019s to a safe season for everyone on Chomolungma.<\/div>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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Himalayan Database<\/h2>\n

I use the Himalayan Database<\/a> as my primary source of Everest summit statistics. If you are climbing in 2026, they are asking you to fill in an electronic web-based survey. This replaces the time-consuming process of visiting each team in their hotel before the climb. \u00a0Please use this link<\/a> to complete the survey. You can now download the HDB for free at their site.<\/p>\n

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