{"id":49256,"date":"2026-04-27T11:43:20","date_gmt":"2026-04-27T17:43:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49256"},"modified":"2026-04-27T12:08:00","modified_gmt":"2026-04-27T18:08:00","slug":"everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/27\/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update – Icefall Route In?"},"content":{"rendered":"
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We may finally see how climate change has impacted climbing Mt. Everest: melting seracs threatening climbers, and helicopters used to bypass the icefall.<\/p>\n

Big Picture<\/h2>\n

First, let’s clarify that the Icefeall is not blocked and is passable. The issue is a large, unstable hanging serac that, if it fell onto the Icefall with climbers there, dozens could be killed, making it much worse than the 16 taken in a similar event in 2014. There are conflicting reports about a route to Camp 1. But others say it’s still too dangerous because of rockfall, and the ice serac in question remains.<\/p>\n

There are 410 Everest permits issued, so with 1.5 Sherpas per permit and 0.2 cooks, there are around 1,200 people at EBC, by my estimation. I’ve seen other reports with three times that many.<\/p>\n

In or Not?<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n
Imagine Nepal posted this on IG<\/a>:<\/div>\n
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Today, three Sherpas from @imaginenepal<\/a>, along with one from Elite Exped and one from Altipro, together with Polish pioneer Mr. Barteek Ziemski, climbed over the icefall blockage and fixed some ladders and ropes toward Camp 1. They had to turn back just a few hundred meters from Camp 1 due to a whiteout, but the route to Camp 1 is almost complete. They found the route far safer than it is being made out to be. All climbers who have been above the ice blockage think the route is safe. We believe Mother Qomolangma has shown us a path to make a safe climb.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n
\"2026<\/a>
2026 Icefall dilemma. Courtesy of Imagine Nepal.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
However, The Tourism Times<\/a> noted that Lakpa Sherpa, Expedition Director at 8K Expeditions, who is coordinating the field visit recce from base camp, informed that 17 mountain guides and 8 icefall doctors visited the area on Sunday morning and inspected the fragile hanging serac along the icefall section.<\/p>\n
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\u201cThe joint team observed that there was no option to find any alternative safe route in the treacherous section until the hanging serac collapses,\u201d Lakpa said, adding that the joint team of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and expedition operators was returning to base camp from the icefall section.<\/p>\n

Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, base camp manager at SPCC, also confirmed that the serac has further widened, obstructing the proposed route to Camp I. \u201cEarlier, the gap was some 3 feet, but it was found to be some 8 feet today,\u201d he said, hoping that it would collapse in a few days.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a> posted:<\/p>\n

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A team of more than 20 Sherpa Icefall Doctors, the Expedition Operators Association Nepal (EOA-Nepal), and other climbing teams, including CTSS, went up to assess the route and explore options. They all turned back, agreeing that the route above was still too dangerous.<\/p>\n

Another smaller independent team did make it above this section, but it remains to be seen whether their route is reasonable for sending hundreds of climbers through. The Icefall Doctors will head back up tomorrow to assess this route and keep an eye on the condition of the seracs.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

How Many Ladders and When?<\/h2>\n

History shows that the Docs usually get the route set between April 2nd<\/sup> and 16th:<\/sup><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
\u00a0<\/td>\nIcefall In<\/strong><\/td>\n# Ladders<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
2009<\/td>\nApril 14<\/td>\n\u00a017<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2010<\/td>\nApril 16<\/td>\n~24<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2011<\/td>\nApril 11<\/td>\n~27<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2012<\/td>\nApril 4<\/td>\n~25<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2013<\/td>\nApril 5<\/td>\n~28<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2014<\/td>\nApril 5<\/td>\n~24<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2015<\/td>\nApril 4<\/td>\n\u00a022<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2016<\/td>\nApril 9<\/td>\n\u00a023<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2017<\/td>\nApril 2<\/td>\n\u00a021<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2018<\/td>\nApril 4<\/td>\n\u00a020<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2019<\/td>\nApril 5<\/td>\n\u00a020<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2020<\/td>\nClosed<\/td>\n\u00a0Closed<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2021<\/td>\nApril 3<\/td>\n~10<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2022<\/td>\nApril 7<\/td>\n~10<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2023<\/td>\nApril 5<\/td>\n~7<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2024<\/td>\nApril 16<\/td>\n~5<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2025<\/td>\nApril 10<\/td>\n~21<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2026<\/td>\n?<\/td>\n?<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

Helicopters to Camp 2<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n
In another unprecedented move, the Everest Chronicle reported that Himal Gautam, spokesperson for Nepal\u2019s Department of Tourism, said: ”<\/p>\n
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The route from Base Camp to Camp II is delayed due to a serac blocking it. A total of 10 helicopters will ferry equipment \u2014 including ropes, oxygen cylinders and food \u2014 directly to Camp II to expedite the rope fixing task. Under normal regulations, flights above Everest Base Camp are restricted to search-and-rescue operations.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

This may become the new normal. Note that no foreigners or support climbers are allowed to fly over the Icefall, except for urgent medical emergencies.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Patience and Strategy<\/h2>\n

While the clock continues to run towards the inevitable monsoon arrival around June 1, the decisions\u00a0teams will make will vary. You will see many teams, primarily the local Nepali\/Sherpa-owned and run ones, follow the rope fixers to the summit, so expect massive crowds around mid-May.<\/p>\n

On the other hand, most western\/foreign operators have maintained their style for many years, waiting for the crowds to calm, then going as late in the season as possible. That would suggest those teams summit between May 22 and 26. Of course, all of this depends on: 1) can a route be put in at all, 2) is there enough time to stock camps and acclimate, and 3) the most important caveat\u2014the weather.<\/p>\n

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Other 8000ers – Summits<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n
There were a few more summits by the \u00a0Nepali operators of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Makalu, with scores of summits over the past week.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
A team of 8 Sherpas from 14 Peaks Expedition<\/a> fixed the route to the summit of Annapurna I<\/strong> on Friday, April 18, marking the first 8000er summit of this spring 2026 season. Two foreign climbers also summited after the Sherpas. Seven Summits Treks<\/a> noted 10 people summited, 5 Sherpas with 5 clients. Elite Expeditions<\/a> also claimed six clients summiting.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
Teams summited Dhaulagiri,<\/strong> including Pioneer Adventure<\/a> with 9 Sherpas and 8 clients. Imagine Nepal<\/a> saw summtis as well. And\u00a0on Makalu,<\/strong> Seven Summits Treks<\/a> reports their 6\u00a0Sherpa rope team also summited.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Next Week<\/h2>\n
IF\u2014big IF\u2014the route is in, look for swarms of Sherpas and clients, clogging up the Icefall to get at least one acclimitization rotation in, plus get the upper camps stocked with tents, fuel, stoves and lots of oxygen bottles. This has all the makings of the 2019 fiasco, where we saw 400-600 climbers trying to summit in a three-day span.<\/div>\n
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Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\n

As of April 27, 2026, Nepal has issued 996 climbing permits to 1165 teams across 29 peaks. Everest climbers are from 55 countries. China has the most climbers at 98, followed by the U.S. at 57, India at 46 and the UK at 29. This is the current tally for the 8000ers. The Ministry of Tourism is not reporting as readably as in prior years, thus some banks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
8000er<\/strong><\/td>\nTeams<\/strong><\/td>\n\u00a0 Male Clients<\/strong><\/td>\nFemale Clients<\/strong><\/td>\nTotal<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Annapurna I<\/td>\n4<\/td>\n19<\/td>\n8<\/td>\n27<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Dhaulagiri<\/td>\n4<\/td>\n18<\/td>\n12<\/td>\n30<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Everest<\/td>\n42<\/td>\n327<\/td>\n98<\/td>\n425<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Kanchenjunga<\/td>\n3<\/td>\n22<\/td>\n12<\/td>\n34<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Lhotse<\/td>\n9<\/td>\n78<\/td>\n33<\/td>\n111<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Makalu<\/td>\n9<\/td>\n44<\/td>\n17<\/td>\n61<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Manaslu<\/td>\n1<\/td>\n2<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
TOTALS<\/td>\n72<\/td>\n510<\/td>\n180<\/td>\n690<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Here\u2019s to a safe season for everyone on all the peaks.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n

Here’s the Podcast of the Weekend Update<\/h2>\n

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