{"id":49278,"date":"2026-04-29T18:54:50","date_gmt":"2026-04-30T00:54:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49278"},"modified":"2026-04-29T18:54:50","modified_gmt":"2026-04-30T00:54:50","slug":"everest-2026-route-to-camp-2-in-with-risks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/29\/everest-2026-route-to-camp-2-in-with-risks\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: Route to Camp 2 In\u2014with Risks"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. The serac has not completely fallen, so it brings the question of how much risk each individual – client and Sherpa is willing to take? While the route to Camp 1 is about two weeks late, there is still plenty of time this season, so, regardless of what you may read, the Everest 2026 season is not at risk\u2014anymore.<\/p>\n

Still Risks<\/h2>\n

The SPCC, which manages the Icefall Doctors, put out this warning:<\/p>\n

\u201cOur Icefall Doctors explored an alternative path through the center of the section, but no safer option could be found. Given the circumstances and the limited time remaining before the climbing season, the team had no alternative but to open the route passing below the serac.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Acclimatization on Other Peaks<\/h2>\n

With the Icefall closed for the past two weeks, many teams switched to Mera, Lobuche East, and Baruntse instead of the traditional trip to Camp 2. It’s effectively the same in terms of exposing the body to lower oxygen levels, so once the route is open to the summit, I don’t expect to see a “traditional” season, whatever that means anymore.<\/p>\n

Sherpa Trains to C2<\/h2>\n

Imagine Nepal<\/a> gave the best update:<\/p>\n

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Today, our 31 Sherpa team members and @anjablacha went from Base Camp to Camp 2 and back. Anja will spend 1\u20132 nights at camp 2 as part of her preparation for climbing Lhotse without oxygen. The route is comparatively safer and shorter than in previous years, but the ice blockage area still needs to be considered a risky one. We still hope to have a route more on the left side, with 9\u201310 joint ladders to climb the wall, which will be safer. The responsible authorities are taking care of the rest. Our team will move to Camp 2 tomorrow and start setting up the camp. So far, so good. Best wishes to everyone.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Only Climbers at EBC<\/h2>\n

The Department of Tourism<\/a> is cracking down on guests at EBC:<\/p>\n

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The directive invokes Regulation 9(D2) of the Mountaineering Regulations, 2059, which explicitly prohibits anyone other than expedition team members, sirdars, mountain guides, high-altitude workers, base camp workers, and local workers from staying at base camp without prior departmental approval. The circular makes clear that conducting or facilitating overnight stays for general tourists or trekkers at expedition camps \u2014 including through packaged itineraries \u2014 constitutes a direct violation of this legal provision.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

There are 410 Everest permits issued, so with 1.5 Sherpas per permit and 0.2 cooks, there are around 1,200 people at EBC, by my estimation. I’ve seen other reports with three times that many.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Here\u2019s to a safe season for everyone on all the peaks.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n

You can listen to #everest2026 podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0Apple<\/a>, Breaker<\/a>, Pocket Casts<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n

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Previous Everest 2026 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\n