{"id":49434,"date":"2026-05-21T11:00:29","date_gmt":"2026-05-21T17:00:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49434"},"modified":"2026-05-21T11:00:29","modified_gmt":"2026-05-21T17:00:29","slug":"everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/21\/everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: The Western Team&#8217;s Turn, My Summit Anniversary"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n<div>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it&#8217;s time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we&#8217;ve discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I&#8217;m announcing my upcoming memoir: <em>Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.<\/em><\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\u00a0<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">Climbing conditions today\u00a0were reported to be calm &#8211; low winds, little moisture, so climbers were able to move quickly compared to the 12-hour summit pushes yesterday.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Yesterday&#8217;s record-setting summits on the Nepal side of 274 came with serious problems. I&#8217;ve received reports that it took 12 hours to climb from the South Col to the summit, almost twice as long as some people take; most take between eight and ten hours. And there were cases of frostbite and rescues that will never be made public. This from the <a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/nepalitimes.com\/rush-hour-traffic-at-8848m\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Nepal Times<\/a>:<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>\u201cClimbers were summiting in great numbers from 3 AM in the morning to 2PM,\u201d mountaineer Khim Lal Gautam told us on the phone from Base Camp \u201cDue to the high numbers, there were some rescues and some developed snow blindness.\u201d<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n\r\n\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<div>\r\n<h2 dir=\"auto\">Thursday Summits &#8211; 92+<\/h2>\r\n<p>Norwegian Kristin Harila summited Mount Lhotse, the second of her &#8220;Triple Crown&#8221; goal &#8211; Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. She wanted to climb all three without supplemental oxygen, but used Os on Lhotse.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/adventureconsultants.com\/world-renowned\/news-and-media\/current-dispatches\/everest-2026\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Adventure Consultants<\/a> &#8211; 2 members with 1 Kiwi Guide, 8 Sherpas for 11 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitclimb.com\/news\/recent\/everest-nepal-news\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Summit Climb<\/a> &#8211; 1 member with 3 Sherpas for 4 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ClimbingTheSevenSummits\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a> &#8211; 5 members with 1 Ecuadorian Guide, 13 Sherpas for 19 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.expeditionshighmountain.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Expeditions High Mountain \u00a0<\/a>&#8211; 1 member with 2 Argentinian Guides and 3 Sherpas for 6 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/8kexpeditions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8K Expeditions<\/a> &#8211; 1 member with 3 Sherpas for 4 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> &#8211; 3 members supported by 4 Sherpas for 7 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>7<a href=\"https:\/\/7summitsclub.com\/news\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> Summits Club<\/a> &#8211; 3 members supported by 1 Russian Guide and 7 named Sherpas for 11 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/asian-trekking.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Asian Trekking<\/a> &#8211; 4 members supported by 4 Sherpas for 8 summits (All female team)<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pioneeradventure.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pioneer Adventure<\/a> &#8211; 7 members supported by 15 Sherpas for 22 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">With 270 summits on Wednesday and 92 today, the season total is nearing 600.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">More to Come<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">By my count, I&#8217;m predicting 800 total summit attempts, so with 600 completed, that leaves around 200 to go, maybe less. Look for more from: <a href=\"https:\/\/climbingthesevensummits.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a>, Madison Mountaineering and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpineascents.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">AAI<\/a>. Kenton Cool goes tonight for his record 20<sup>th <\/sup>non-Sherpa summit.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A Personal Note<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">May 21 is the 15th anniversary of my Everest summit. Most of my regular readers know my story: three attempts &#8211; \u00a02002, 2003 and 2008. Then I set a goal to climb the 7 Summits in one year in 2011, including reaching the summit of Everest.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">On May 21, 2011, at 5:30 am, Kami and I stood on the summit together.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignright size-medium wp-image-22309\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" class=\"wp-image-22309\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/IMG_2493-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"Alan with Kami and Lhapka Diti\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/IMG_2493-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/IMG_2493-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/IMG_2493-640x360.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/IMG_2493.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/>\r\n<figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Alan with Kami and Lhapka Diti in their home in Pangboche in 2016<\/figcaption>\r\n<\/figure>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kami was born Ang Chhiring Sherpa and lives in the village of Pangboche. He has a beautiful view of Ama Dablam from the home where he and his wife, Lhapka Diti, raised their five children.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In 2011, at age 46, he had 12 Everest summits, K2, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and many other climbs under his belt. Kami was married and had four children. His oldest son was a monk in the nearby Thyangboche Monastery. His next son was also a guide for IMG\u00a0at the time, and his other three children were in school in Kathmandu.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Climbing was literally in his family, as his father had also been an Everest guide. And soon I learned that Kami was the older brother of Ang Dorge, whom I had climbed on Everest with almost 10 years earlier. I was pleased to know that I was literally climbing with living history, a living legend.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Throughout my 6 weeks on Everest, Kami and I spent a lot of time together. We climbed Lobuche Peak together for acclimatization. We made the necessary trips through the icefall, clipped into the same fixed line. We shared stories of families, friends and climbing tales. We went on to summit K2 and Island Peak in later years.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<figure id=\"attachment_24980\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24980\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/everest\/everest2011.php\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-24980 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-640x480.jpg\" alt=\"Alan on the summit of Everest May 21, 2011 5:00AM\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/Everest-Summit-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-24980\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alan on the summit of Everest, May 21, 2011, 5:30 AM<\/figcaption><\/figure>\r\n\r\n<p>I have wonderful memories of climbing Everest, even of the &#8220;non-summit&#8221; times. I am forever grateful to Kami and the International Mountain Guides crew that made it possible: Greg Vernovage, Ang Jangbu, Eric Simonson and Phil Ershler.<\/p>\r\n<h3>My Memoir<\/h3>\r\n<p>I recently finished my memoir,<em> Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida,<\/em> which takes readers through my K2 climb, the Alzheimer&#8217;s journey I took with my mom, Ida and my climb of the 7 Summits in one year and being on Everest during the 2015 earthquake. The manuscript is finished, and I&#8217;m shopping for a publisher. If you&#8217;d like a preview and to sign up for notifications when it&#8217;s published, please visit this <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/k2-memoir.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">page<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<figure id=\"attachment_49442\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-49442\" style=\"width: 530px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/k2-memoir.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-49442 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-530x480.jpg\" alt=\"Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida\" width=\"530\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-530x480.jpg 530w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-249x225.jpg 249w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-1536x1390.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-1000x905.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-230x208.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-350x317.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover-480x434.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/K2-book-cover.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-49442\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida<\/figcaption><\/figure>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\r\n<p>As of May 15, 2026, Nepal has issued 1,181 climbing permits to 142 teams across 30 peaks, bringing in $8.43 million US dollars in permit fees, with Everest accounting for $10.7 million. Everest climbers are from 55 countries. China has the most climbers at 109, followed by the U.S. at 77, India at 61 and the UK at 32. There are 105 female climbers on Everest this season. This is the current tally for the 8000ers.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<table style=\"width: 45.541591%; height: 202px;\">\r\n<thead>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 48px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 30.555556%;\"><strong>8000er<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 15.277778%;\"><strong>Teams<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 18.333333%;\"><strong>\u00a0 Male Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 19.722222%;\"><strong>Female Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 11.944444%;\"><strong>Total<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/thead>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 10px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Annapurna I<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 18.333333%;\">19<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 19.722222%;\">8<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 11.944444%;\">27<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Dhaulagiri<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">18<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">12<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">30<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Everest<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">389<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">105<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">494<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Kanchenjunga<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">23<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">13<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">36<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Lhotse<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">14<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">99<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">44<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">143<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Makalu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">11<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">21<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">72<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td style=\"text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Manaslu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.277778%;\">1<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 18.333333%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 19.722222%;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 11.944444%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">TOTALS<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">89<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">601<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">203<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">804<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Climb On!<br \/>\r\nAlan<br \/>\r\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\">\r\n<hr \/><\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">You can listen to #everest2026 <strong>podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\" \/>\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Previous Everest 2026 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/17\/everest-2026-may-17-weekend-update-climbers-to-the-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 17 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbers to the Summit<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/13\/everest-2026-ropes-reach-summit-time-to-wait\/\">Everest 2026: Ropes to Summit, Time to Wait<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/12\/everest-2026-everest-death-lhotse-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 10 Weekend Update &#8211; Ropes to South Col, Everest Death<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/03\/everest-2026-may-3-weekend-update-climbing\/\">Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbing!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/29\/everest-2026-route-to-camp-2-in-with-risks\/\">Everest 2026: Route In &#8211; With Risks<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/27\/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in\/\">Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update &#8211; Icefall Route In?<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/19\/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update &#8211; 8000er Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/12\/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive\/\">Everest 2026: April 12 Weekend Update &#8211; The Khumbu is Alive!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/04\/everest-2026-are-everest-climbers-being-poisoned\/\">Everest 2026: Are Everest Climbers Being Poisoned?<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/02\/everest-2026-climber-rescue-alert\/\">Everest 2026: Climber Rescue Alert<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/26\/everest-2026-climbers-to-watch-this-season\/\">Everest 2026: Climbers to Watch this Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/17\/everest-2026-north-side-closed-new-rules-in-effect-everest-2026-season-update\/\">Everest 2026: North Side Closed, New Rules in Effect: Everest 2026 Season Update<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/01\/everest-2026-icefall-doctors-launched\/\">Everest 2026: Icefall Doctors Launched<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/23\/everest-2026-rumor-fire-season\/\">Everest 2026: Rumor Fire Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/13\/everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage\/\">Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage &#8211; An overview of what to expect during the Spring 2026 climbing season<\/a><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Background<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/26\/everest-by-the-numbers-2026-edition\/\">Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition &#8211; A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/28\/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2026-edition\/\">Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; A detailed look at Everest&#8217;s routes, commercial, standard, and non-standard<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/03\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-everest-2026-edition\/\">How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; My annual analysis of Everest climbing costs, from solo and unsupported to fully guided<\/a><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it&#8217;s time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we&#8217;ve discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I&#8217;m announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.\u00a0 #everest2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":19653,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,147,828,81],"tags":[482,432,448,829,439,595,838],"class_list":["post-49434","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2026-coverage","category-everest-news","tag-chris-tomer","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2026-coverage","tag-everest-news","tag-everest-popular-posts","tag-everest-weather-update"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/IMG_0056-1.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/49434","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=49434"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/49434\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":49449,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/49434\/revisions\/49449"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19653"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=49434"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=49434"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=49434"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}