{"id":49456,"date":"2026-05-22T11:28:42","date_gmt":"2026-05-22T17:28:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49456"},"modified":"2026-05-24T14:15:17","modified_gmt":"2026-05-24T20:15:17","slug":"everest-2026-garrett-madison-podcast-from-camp-2-2-more-deaths","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/22\/everest-2026-garrett-madison-podcast-from-camp-2-2-more-deaths\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n<div>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.<\/div>\r\n<h2 dir=\"auto\">Rescues and Incidents<\/h2>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">8K Expeditions reports that British deaf mountaineer and BBC Sign Language presenter Michael Woods was rescued after his summit.<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>Lakpa Sherpa, Managing Director of 8K Expeditions: A Sherpa climber and Woods are being rescued by other climbers now. Woods and one of his guides are being brought from the triangular face.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<p>Pioneerer Adventures said two Indian climbers, Sandeep Are, and Arun Kumar Tiwari, died on their descent after summitting. The outfit cited altitude-related illnesses as the cause of death.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<div>\r\n<h2 dir=\"auto\">Friday, May 22 Summits<\/h2>\r\n<p>Kenton Cool got his 20th summit on the non-Sherpa record. Australian Oliver Foran got his sea-to-summit, summit after cycling more than 1,150 kilometers (715 miles) from India in 50 days. Tenzing David Sherpa summited Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, completing the Triple Crown of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest in an astonishing five days.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li>Imagine Nepal &#8211; 18 Chinese members, 1 Romanian, supported by 25 Sherpas for 44 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>Satori Expeditions &#8211; 1 member supported by 3 Sherpas for 4 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>Furtenbach &#8211; 77 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p>The season total is well over 700.<\/p>\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">More to Come<\/h2>\r\n<p>By my count, I&#8217;m predicting 800 total summit attempts, so with 700 completed, that leaves around 100-150 to go, maybe less. Look for more from Madison Mountaineering and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpineascents.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">AAI<\/a>, both of which moved to the Col today, targeting May 25 for the summit. Garret told me the Icefall Docs will remove the ladders on May 29, so the clock is ticking.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">Piotr Jerzy Krzy\u017cowski summited Mt. Kangchenjunga (8,586m) on 20 May 2026, without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n<div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\r\n<p>As of May 15, 2026, Nepal has issued 1,181 climbing permits to 142 teams across 30 peaks, bringing in $8.43 million US dollars in permit fees, with Everest accounting for $7.1 million. Everest climbers are from 55 countries. China has the most climbers at 109, followed by the U.S. at 77, India at 61 and the UK at 32. There are 105 female climbers on Everest this season. This is the current tally for the 8000ers.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<table style=\"width: 45.541591%; height: 202px;\">\r\n<thead>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 48px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 30.555556%;\"><strong>8000er<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 15.277778%;\"><strong>Teams<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 18.333333%;\"><strong>\u00a0 Male Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 19.722222%;\"><strong>Female Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 11.944444%;\"><strong>Total<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/thead>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 10px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Annapurna I<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 18.333333%;\">19<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 19.722222%;\">8<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 11.944444%;\">27<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Dhaulagiri<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">18<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">12<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">30<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Everest<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">389<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">105<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">494<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Kanchenjunga<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">23<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">13<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">36<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Lhotse<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">14<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">99<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">44<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">143<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Makalu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">11<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">21<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">72<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td style=\"text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Manaslu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.277778%;\">1<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 18.333333%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 19.722222%;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 11.944444%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">TOTALS<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">89<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">601<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">203<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">804<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Climb On!<br \/>\r\nAlan<br \/>\r\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\">\r\n<hr \/><\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center;\">Live Interview wth garrett Madiosn from Everest Camp 2<\/h3>\r\n<div id=\"kgvid_kgvid_0_wrapper\" class=\"kgvid_wrapper kgvid_wrapper_auto_left kgvid_wrapper_auto_right\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"video_kgvid_0_div\" class=\"fitvidsignore kgvid_videodiv\" data-id=\"kgvid_0\" data-kgvid_video_vars=\"{&quot;id&quot;:&quot;kgvid_0&quot;,&quot;attachment_id&quot;:&quot;49458&quot;,&quot;player_type&quot;:&quot;Video.js v8&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;640&quot;,&quot;height&quot;:&quot;360&quot;,&quot;fullwidth&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;fixed_aspect&quot;:&quot;vertical&quot;,&quot;countable&quot;:true,&quot;count_views&quot;:&quot;start_complete&quot;,&quot;start&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;autoplay&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;pauseothervideos&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;set_volume&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;muted&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;meta&quot;:true,&quot;endofvideooverlay&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.alanarnette.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/12\\\/summitcoach-e1483568572550.jpg&quot;,&quot;resize&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;auto_res&quot;:&quot;automatic&quot;,&quot;pixel_ratio&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;right_click&quot;:false,&quot;playback_rate&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Everest 2026: Live Podcast with Garrett Madison from Everest Camp 2&quot;,&quot;skip_buttons&quot;:[],&quot;nativecontrolsfortouch&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;locale&quot;:&quot;en&quot;,&quot;enable_resolutions_plugin&quot;:false}\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Everest-2021Weekend-Update-April-4_thumb1.jpg\"><meta itemprop=\"embedUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-Live-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison-from-Everest-Camp-2.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"contentUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-Live-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison-from-Everest-Camp-2.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"name\" content=\"Everest 2026: Live Podcast with Garrett Madison from Everest Camp 2\"><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"Video\"><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2026-05-21T20:27:23-06:00\">\n\t\t\t\t<video id=\"video_kgvid_0\" playsinline controls preload=\"metadata\" poster=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Everest-2021Weekend-Update-April-4_thumb1.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"fitvidsignore video-js kg-video-js-skin\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-Live-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison-from-Everest-Camp-2.mp4?id=0\" type=\"video\/mp4\" data-res=\"720p\">\n\t\t\t\t<\/video>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"kgvid_below_video\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_below\"><div class=\"kgvid-viewcount\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_viewcount\">269 views<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t<div style=\"display:none\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_meta\" class=\"kgvid_video_meta kgvid_video_meta_hover \">\n\t\t\t\t<span class=\"kgvid_meta_icons\"><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<span id=\"video_kgvid_0_title\" class=\"kgvid_title\">Everest 2026: Live Podcast with Garrett Madison from Everest Camp 2<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">You can listen to #everest2026 <strong>podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Previous Everest 2026 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\r\n\t<li>Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/21\/everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary\/\">Everest 2026: The Western Team\u2019s Turn, My Summit Anniversary<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/20\/everest-2026-may-20-summit-recap\/\">Everest 2026: May 20 Summit Recap: 270 Summits!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-admin\/post.php?post=49393&amp;action=edit\">Everest 2026: Ski Descent and More Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-admin\/post.php?post=49386&amp;action=edit\">Everest 2026: Weather Alert and More Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/17\/everest-2026-may-17-weekend-update-climbers-to-the-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 17 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbers to the Summit<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/13\/everest-2026-ropes-reach-summit-time-to-wait\/\">Everest 2026: Ropes to Summit, Time to Wait<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/12\/everest-2026-everest-death-lhotse-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 10 Weekend Update &#8211; Ropes to South Col, Everest Death<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/03\/everest-2026-may-3-weekend-update-climbing\/\">Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbing!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/29\/everest-2026-route-to-camp-2-in-with-risks\/\">Everest 2026: Route In &#8211; With Risks<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/27\/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in\/\">Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update &#8211; Icefall Route In?<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/19\/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update &#8211; 8000er Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/12\/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive\/\">Everest 2026: April 12 Weekend Update &#8211; The Khumbu is Alive!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/04\/everest-2026-are-everest-climbers-being-poisoned\/\">Everest 2026: Are Everest Climbers Being Poisoned?<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/02\/everest-2026-climber-rescue-alert\/\">Everest 2026: Climber Rescue Alert<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/26\/everest-2026-climbers-to-watch-this-season\/\">Everest 2026: Climbers to Watch this Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/17\/everest-2026-north-side-closed-new-rules-in-effect-everest-2026-season-update\/\">Everest 2026: North Side Closed, New Rules in Effect: Everest 2026 Season Update<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/01\/everest-2026-icefall-doctors-launched\/\">Everest 2026: Icefall Doctors Launched<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/23\/everest-2026-rumor-fire-season\/\">Everest 2026: Rumor Fire Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/13\/everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage\/\">Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage &#8211; An overview of what to expect during the Spring 2026 climbing season<\/a><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n\r\n\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Background<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/26\/everest-by-the-numbers-2026-edition\/\">Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition &#8211; A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/28\/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2026-edition\/\">Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; A detailed look at Everest&#8217;s routes, commercial, standard, and non-standard<\/a><\/li>\r\n\r\n\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/03\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-everest-2026-edition\/\">How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; My annual analysis of Everest climbing costs, from solo and unsupported to fully guided<\/a><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<!-- \/wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph --><!-- wp:post-content --><!-- wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph -->\r\n<div>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.<\/div>\r\n<h2 dir=\"auto\">Rescues and Incidents<\/h2>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">8K Expeditions reports that British deaf mountaineer and BBC Sign Language presenter Michael Woods was rescued after his summit.<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>Lakpa Sherpa, Managing Director of 8K Expeditions: A Sherpa climber and Woods are being rescued by other climbers now. Woods and one of his guides are being brought from the triangular face.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<p>Pioneerer Adventures said two Indian climbers, Sandeep Are, and Arun Kumar Tiwari, died on their descent after summitting. The outfit cited altitude-related illnesses as the cause of death.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\r\n<div>\r\n<h2 dir=\"auto\">Friday, May 22 Summits<\/h2>\r\n<p>Kenton Cool got his 20th summit on the non-Sherpa record. Australian Oliver Foran got his sea-to-summit, summit after cycling more than 1,150 kilometers (715 miles) from India in 50 days. Tenzing David Sherpa summited Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, completing the Triple Crown of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest in an astonishing five days.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li>Imagine Nepal &#8211; 18 Chinese members, 1 Romanian, supported by 25 Sherpas for 44 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>Satori Expeditions &#8211; 1 member supported by 3 Sherpas for 4 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>Furtenbach &#8211; 77 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p>The season total is well over 700.<\/p>\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">More to Come<\/h2>\r\n<p>By my count, I&#8217;m predicting 800 total summit attempts, so with 700 completed, that leaves around 100-150 to go, maybe less. Look for more from Madison Mountaineering and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpineascents.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">AAI<\/a>, both of which moved to the Col today, targeting May 25 for the summit. Garret told me the Icefall Docs will remove the ladders on May 29, so the clock is ticking.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">Piotr Jerzy Krzy\u017cowski summited Mt. Kangchenjunga (8,586m) on 20 May 2026, without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<!-- wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph -->\r\n<div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\r\n<p>As of May 15, 2026, Nepal has issued 1,181 climbing permits to 142 teams across 30 peaks, bringing in $8.43 million US dollars in permit fees, with Everest accounting for $7.1 million. Everest climbers are from 55 countries. China has the most climbers at 109, followed by the U.S. at 77, India at 61 and the UK at 32. There are 105 female climbers on Everest this season. This is the current tally for the 8000ers.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<table style=\"width: 45.541591%; height: 202px;\">\r\n<thead>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 48px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 30.555556%;\"><strong>8000er<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 15.277778%;\"><strong>Teams<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 18.333333%;\"><strong>\u00a0 Male Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 19.722222%;\"><strong>Female Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 11.944444%;\"><strong>Total<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/thead>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 10px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Annapurna I<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 18.333333%;\">19<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 19.722222%;\">8<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 11.944444%;\">27<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Dhaulagiri<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">18<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">12<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">30<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Everest<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">389<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">105<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">494<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Kanchenjunga<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">23<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">13<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">36<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Lhotse<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">14<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">99<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">44<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">143<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Makalu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">11<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">21<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">72<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td style=\"text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Manaslu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.277778%;\">1<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 18.333333%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 19.722222%;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 11.944444%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">TOTALS<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">89<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">601<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">203<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">804<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<!-- \/wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph -->\r\n<!-- wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph \/-->\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\r\nAlan<br \/>\r\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<!-- wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph -->\r\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\">\r\n<hr \/><\/div>\r\n<!-- \/wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph -->\r\n<!-- wp:heading {\"style\":{\"typography\":{\"textAlign\":\"center\"}}} -->\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center;\">Live Interview wth garrett Madiosn from Everest Camp 2<\/h3>\r\n<div id=\"kgvid_kgvid_1_wrapper\" class=\"kgvid_wrapper kgvid_wrapper_auto_left kgvid_wrapper_auto_right\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"video_kgvid_1_div\" class=\"fitvidsignore kgvid_videodiv\" data-id=\"kgvid_1\" data-kgvid_video_vars=\"{&quot;id&quot;:&quot;kgvid_1&quot;,&quot;attachment_id&quot;:&quot;49458&quot;,&quot;player_type&quot;:&quot;Video.js v8&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;640&quot;,&quot;height&quot;:&quot;360&quot;,&quot;fullwidth&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;fixed_aspect&quot;:&quot;vertical&quot;,&quot;countable&quot;:true,&quot;count_views&quot;:&quot;start_complete&quot;,&quot;start&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;autoplay&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;pauseothervideos&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;set_volume&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;muted&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;meta&quot;:true,&quot;endofvideooverlay&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.alanarnette.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/12\\\/summitcoach-e1483568572550.jpg&quot;,&quot;resize&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;auto_res&quot;:&quot;automatic&quot;,&quot;pixel_ratio&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;right_click&quot;:false,&quot;playback_rate&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Everest 2026: Live Podcast with Garrett Madison from Everest Camp 2&quot;,&quot;skip_buttons&quot;:[],&quot;nativecontrolsfortouch&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;locale&quot;:&quot;en&quot;,&quot;enable_resolutions_plugin&quot;:false}\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Everest-2021Weekend-Update-April-4_thumb1.jpg\"><meta itemprop=\"embedUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-Live-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison-from-Everest-Camp-2.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"contentUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-Live-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison-from-Everest-Camp-2.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"name\" content=\"Everest 2026: Live Podcast with Garrett Madison from Everest Camp 2\"><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"Video\"><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2026-05-21T20:27:23-06:00\">\n\t\t\t\t<video id=\"video_kgvid_1\" playsinline controls preload=\"metadata\" poster=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Everest-2021Weekend-Update-April-4_thumb1.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"fitvidsignore video-js kg-video-js-skin\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-Live-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison-from-Everest-Camp-2.mp4?id=1\" type=\"video\/mp4\" data-res=\"720p\">\n\t\t\t\t<\/video>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"kgvid_below_video\" id=\"video_kgvid_1_below\"><div class=\"kgvid-viewcount\" id=\"video_kgvid_1_viewcount\">269 views<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t<div style=\"display:none\" id=\"video_kgvid_1_meta\" class=\"kgvid_video_meta kgvid_video_meta_hover \">\n\t\t\t\t<span class=\"kgvid_meta_icons\"><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<span id=\"video_kgvid_1_title\" class=\"kgvid_title\">Everest 2026: Live Podcast with Garrett Madison from Everest Camp 2<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\r\n<!-- \/wp:heading -->\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p>You can listen to #everest2026 <strong>podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n<hr \/><!-- \/wp:paragraph -->\r\n<!-- wp:separator -->\r\n<!-- wp:heading -->\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Previous Everest 2026 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\r\n<!-- \/wp:heading -->\r\n<!-- wp:list -->\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li>Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/21\/everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary\/\">Everest 2026: The Western Team\u2019s Turn, My Summit Anniversary<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/20\/everest-2026-may-20-summit-recap\/\">Everest 2026: May 20 Summit Recap: 270 Summits!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-admin\/post.php?post=49393&amp;action=edit\">Everest 2026: Ski Descent and More Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-admin\/post.php?post=49386&amp;action=edit\">Everest 2026: Weather Alert and More Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/17\/everest-2026-may-17-weekend-update-climbers-to-the-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 17 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbers to the Summit<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/13\/everest-2026-ropes-reach-summit-time-to-wait\/\">Everest 2026: Ropes to Summit, Time to Wait<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/12\/everest-2026-everest-death-lhotse-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 10 Weekend Update &#8211; Ropes to South Col, Everest Death<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/03\/everest-2026-may-3-weekend-update-climbing\/\">Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbing!<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/29\/everest-2026-route-to-camp-2-in-with-risks\/\">Everest 2026: Route In &#8211; With Risks<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/27\/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in\/\">Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update &#8211; Icefall Route In?<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/19\/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update &#8211; 8000er Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/12\/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive\/\">Everest 2026: April 12 Weekend Update &#8211; The Khumbu is Alive!<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/04\/everest-2026-are-everest-climbers-being-poisoned\/\">Everest 2026: Are Everest Climbers Being Poisoned?<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/02\/everest-2026-climber-rescue-alert\/\">Everest 2026: Climber Rescue Alert<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/26\/everest-2026-climbers-to-watch-this-season\/\">Everest 2026: Climbers to Watch this Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/17\/everest-2026-north-side-closed-new-rules-in-effect-everest-2026-season-update\/\">Everest 2026: North Side Closed, New Rules in Effect: Everest 2026 Season Update<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/01\/everest-2026-icefall-doctors-launched\/\">Everest 2026: Icefall Doctors Launched<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/23\/everest-2026-rumor-fire-season\/\">Everest 2026: Rumor Fire Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/13\/everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage\/\">Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage &#8211; An overview of what to expect during the Spring 2026 climbing season<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item --><\/ul>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list -->\r\n<!-- wp:heading -->\r\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Background<\/h2>\r\n<!-- \/wp:heading -->\r\n<!-- wp:list {\"className\":\"wp-block-list\"} -->\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/26\/everest-by-the-numbers-2026-edition\/\">Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition &#8211; A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/28\/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2026-edition\/\">Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; A detailed look at Everest&#8217;s routes, commercial, standard, and non-standard<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item -->\r\n<!-- wp:list-item -->\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/03\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-everest-2026-edition\/\">How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; My annual analysis of Everest climbing costs, from solo and unsupported to fully guided<\/a><\/li>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list-item --><\/ul>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list --><!-- \/wp:post-content -->","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. <\/p>\n<p>We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.\u00a0 #everest2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":43564,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,147,828,81],"tags":[432,448,829,439,595,544],"class_list":["post-49456","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2026-coverage","category-everest-news","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2026-coverage","tag-everest-news","tag-everest-popular-posts","tag-garrett-madison"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths - The Blog on alanarnette.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"alanarnette.com is a site covering big mountain climbing including Everest, K2, and the 7 summits. All based on Alan&#039;s experience including Everest in 2011 and the oldest American at 58 to summit K2 in 2014.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/22\/everest-2026-garrett-madison-podcast-from-camp-2-2-more-deaths\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths - The Blog on alanarnette.com\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"alanarnette.com is a site covering big mountain climbing including Everest, K2, and the 7 summits. 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