
{"id":49486,"date":"2026-05-24T16:52:33","date_gmt":"2026-05-24T22:52:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49486"},"modified":"2026-05-24T16:53:44","modified_gmt":"2026-05-24T22:53:44","slug":"everest-2026-may-24-weekend-update-nearing-the-end","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/24\/everest-2026-may-24-weekend-update-nearing-the-end\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update &#8211; Nearing the End"},"content":{"rendered":"<div>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">What a week on Everest and Lhotse. The first Everest summits were on May 13 by the rope team, plus a few fast followers. Then the jet came in and stopped everyone, and when it left, well, hundreds summited, including a record 274 on May 20. I&#8217;m estimating there have been over 850 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<h2>Big Picture<\/h2>\r\n<p>American trail runner Tyler Andrews departed from Everest Base Camp at 8:25 pm local time on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest ascent and descent to the summit without using supplemental oxygen. You can follow him on his <a href=\"https:\/\/everest.racecast.io\/stats\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">site<\/a>. They gave this update:<\/p>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p>Due to the weather higher up, Tyler switched to supplemental oxygen. Today&#8217;s push is now targeting the 10h56m record with oxygen. He will attempt a no-oxygen attempt later this week.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/kristin.harila\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kristin Harila<\/a> summited Nuptse (7,861 m) and Lhotse (with Os) and is scheduled to attempt Everest next. It&#8217;s unknown if she will use oxygen. \u00a0She is climbing with Mingtemba Sherpa.<\/p>\r\n<p>In what the best teams do, honoring the mountain all who helped in their climbing effort, Mike Hammel, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ClimbingTheSevenSummits\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a>, posted this:<\/p>\r\n<div class=\"xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs x126k92a\">\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">Yesterday, we honored our Sherpa team. The mountain is cleared of all our gear, and the waste is off the mountain. This is the first time the entire Sherpa team has been in base camp in some time. So it was time to party!<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<div class=\"x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">It was, quite simply, an honor to work with this crew, and much of our success can be attributed to their efforts. They are an incredibly cohesive team that honors the philosophy we\u2019re trying to create at CTSS. It is a long and difficult season for them, but they always go above and beyond and do their job with a smile.<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\u00a0<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div class=\"x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">From our base camp staff, the kitchen crew at Lobuche, EBC and c2, to the climbing team, to the barista, the electrician, the porters, Big Tendi, Little Tendi, Sankar, GobInda, Sagar, and the entire KTM staff, we honor their incredible work. Thanks to the team from all of us at CTSS and all our climbers. It goes without saying, we couldn\u2019t do it without you.<\/div>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">\u00a0<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div class=\"x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a\">\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">One of the reasons we aim to summit earlier in the season is to keep our climbers and Sherpa team safe. Late in the season, the icefall melts out, anchors pull out, ice towers move and shift, and everything becomes more dangerous.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<div class=\"x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a\">\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">We are proud to provide work for hundreds of people in Nepal and inject huge amounts of money into the economy every year. Many of our team members depend on work during the Everest season to provide for their families. We will continue to work hard for those who work so hard for us.<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">I like what Mike Harker said about his summit &#8211; this is what it&#8217;s all about for the people who don&#8217;t get it:<\/div>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<div dir=\"auto\">I summited Mount Everest on May 20, 2026, at 9:10 AM. Proud to be the first American diplomat to reach the highest point on Earth. <br \/>\r\n<br \/>\r\nEverest leaves you with immense respect for nature, for the climbers who came before, for all those who attempted, and for all those who never made it back down. <br \/>\r\n<br \/>\r\nIt also reveals the power of the mind. In the death zone, the mind is the only thing pushing you forward. I felt this acutely as I descended from the summit to camp 3.<br \/>\r\n<br \/>\r\nEverest doesn\u2019t care about who you are or what you think you deserve. But yet, there were moments on the mountain when, just as injuries or setbacks occurred, the right remedy or helping hand seemed to appear at exactly the right time.<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<h2>Summits!!<\/h2>\r\n<p>I did my best to track as many of the team summits as possible, but this is a particular life from this week.<\/p>\r\n<h3>Sunday Summits &#8211; 50+<\/h3>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/14peaksexpedition.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">14 Peaks<\/a> &#8211; 2 clients with 3 sheraps<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sevensummittreks.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> &#8211; two Sherpas leading two clients<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/8kexpeditions.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8K<\/a> &#8211; 16 &#8211; 8 members with 8 Sherpas.<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sevensummittreks.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits\u00a0<\/a><span style=\"color: #0000ee;\"><span style=\"caret-color: #0000ee;\"><u>Treks&#8217;<\/u><\/span><\/span> massive all-Chinese team with 14 members, supported by 18 Sherpas for 31 people<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<div>\r\n<h3 dir=\"auto\">Monday Summits: 80+<\/h3>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/14peaksexpedition.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">14 Peaks<\/a> &#8211; all-Chinese team with 8 members, supported by 11 Sherpas for 19 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/14peaksexpedition.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">14 Peaks<\/a> &#8211; International team with 2 members, supported by 3 Sherpas for 5 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sevensummittreks.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> &#8211; 9 members with 13 Sherpas for 22 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/8kexpeditions.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8K<\/a> &#8211; 3 members with 3 Sherpas for 6 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/climbingthesevensummits.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a> &#8211; 7 members with 3 US guides and 14 Sherpas for 24 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<div>\r\n<h3 dir=\"auto\">Wednesday Summits &#8211; 274+<\/h3>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/8kexpeditions.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8K<\/a> &#8211; 7 members with 7 Sherpas for 14 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sevensummittreks.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> &#8211; 6 members with 7 Sherpas for 13 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/asian-trekking.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Asian Trekking<\/a> &#8211; 11 members with 1 Nepali guide and 21 Sherpas for 32 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/eliteexped\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Elete Expeditions<\/a> &#8211; 8 members supported by 8 Sherpas for 16 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/7summitsclub.com\/news\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">7 Summits Club<\/a>\u00a0 &#8211; 4 members with 1 Russian guide and no Sherpa names provided for 4 (8?) summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/profile.php?id=100062343590636\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kaitu Expeditions<\/a> &#8211; 15+ summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pioneeradventure.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pioneer Adventures<\/a> &#8211; 4 members supported by 6 Sherpas for 10 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.satoriadventuresnepal.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Satori Expeditions<\/a> &#8211; 8 members supported by 14 Sherpas for 22 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<div>\r\n<h3 dir=\"auto\">Thursday Summits &#8211; 150+<\/h3>\r\n<p>Norwegian Kristin Harila summited Mount Lhotse, the second of her &#8220;Triple Crown&#8221; goal &#8211; Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. She wanted to climb all three without supplemental oxygen, but used Os on Lhotse.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/adventureconsultants.com\/world-renowned\/news-and-media\/current-dispatches\/everest-2026\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Adventure Consultants<\/a> &#8211; 2 members with 1 Kiwi Guide, 8 Sherpas for 11 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitclimb.com\/news\/recent\/everest-nepal-news\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Summit Climb<\/a> &#8211; 1 member with 3 Sherpas for 4 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ClimbingTheSevenSummits\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a> &#8211; 5 members with 1 Ecuadorian Guide, 13 Sherpas for 19 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.expeditionshighmountain.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Expeditions High Mountain \u00a0<\/a>&#8211; 1 member with 2 Argentinian Guides and 3 Sherpas for 6 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/8kexpeditions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8K Expeditions<\/a> &#8211; 1 member with 3 Sherpas for 4 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> &#8211; 3 members supported by 4 Sherpas for 7 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>7<a href=\"https:\/\/7summitsclub.com\/news\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> Summits Club<\/a> &#8211; 3 members supported by 1 Russian Guide and 7 named Sherpas for 11 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/asian-trekking.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Asian Trekking<\/a> &#8211; 4 members supported by 4 Sherpas for 8 summits (All female team)<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pioneeradventure.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pioneer Adventure<\/a> &#8211; 7 members supported by 15 Sherpas for 22 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.satoriadventuresnepal.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Satori Expeditions<\/a> &#8211; 4 members supported by 5 Sherpas for 9 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<div>\r\n<h3 dir=\"auto\">Saturday, May 23 Summits &#8211; 50+<\/h3>\r\n<p>The SST all Nepali team is not finished after summiting Everest today. The team will kayak over 1,830 miles from the glacier&#8217;s source to the Bay of Bengal, highlighting the deep connections among mountains, rivers, ecosystems, and communities, and raising awareness about climate change and river conservation.<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li>Seven Summits Treks &#8211; 7 all Nepali for 7 summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>14 Peaks &#8211; 5 members supported by 8 Sherpas for 13 total summits<\/li>\r\n\t<li>Furtenbach &#8211; 29 total summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h3 dir=\"auto\">Sunday, May 24 Summits &#8211; 50+<\/h3>\r\n<p>Another large SST team summited today in a short time, proving that the way Everest is climbed is ever-changing. The National Security Guard Everest Expedition 2026 completed the entire expedition in just 20 days from leaving Kathmandu.<\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> &#8211; 10 members supported by 16 Sherpas for 26 summits<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>On May 13, a large rope team of 23 Sherpas, comprising 3 from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/imaginenepaltreks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Imagine Nepal<\/a>, 9 from 8K Expeditions and 11 from the <a href=\"https:\/\/english.theeverestnews.com\/article\/6a041de637f754f384098338\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Expedition Operators Association,<\/a> reached the summit. On the same day, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/imaginenepaltreks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Imagine Nepal<\/a> saw the first commercial client summits of the season, with 6 clients and 7 Sherpas.<\/p>\r\n<h2>More to Come<\/h2>\r\n<p>My initial estimate of 800 summits has been exceeded, with the total now approaching 900\u2014an impressive milestone. Climbers departed the South Col on Sunday night in breezy conditions. \u00a0Austrian <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/sabshero\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sabrina Finzmose<\/a>r is attempting Everest without supplemental oxygen. She reported strong winds at Camp 4 before starting her ascent. Similarly, Lithuanian climber <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/horizontas\/?locale=lt_LT\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Saulius Damulevicius<\/a> warned of worsening weather at Camp 2, with strong winds allegedly breaking tent poles overnight.<\/p>\r\n<p>Look for more from Madison Mountaineering, Summit Climb and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpineascents.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">AAI<\/a>, all of which moved to the Col today, targeting May 25 for the summit. Elete Expeditonas is targeting May 26 for their final team. Garret told me the Icefall Docs will remove the ladders on May 29, so the clock is ticking.<\/p>\r\n<h2>Tibet Side Climbing<\/h2>\r\n<p>China closed its side of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma to foreign climbers for reasons unknown. However, there are Chinese climbers on the Tibet side, and as usual, we haven&#8217;t received any updates.<\/p>\r\n<h2>Other 8000ers &#8211; Summits<\/h2>\r\n<div>There were a few more summits by the Nepali operators of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Makalu, with scores of summits over the past few weeks. Piotr Jerzy Krzy\u017cowski summited Mt. Kangchenjunga (8,586m) on 20 May 2026, without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support.<\/div>\r\n<div>Climbing wth <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/satoriadventuresnepal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Satori Adventures<\/a>, Congratulations to <span class=\"html-span xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak xexx8yu xyri2b x18d9i69 x1c1uobl x1hl2dhg x16tdsg8 x1vvkbs\"><a class=\"x1i10hfl xjbqb8w x1ejq31n x18oe1m7 x1sy0etr xstzfhl x972fbf x10w94by x1qhh985 x14e42zd x9f619 x1ypdohk xt0psk2 x3ct3a4 xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak xexx8yu xyri2b x18d9i69 x1c1uobl x16tdsg8 x1hl2dhg xggy1nq x1a2a7pz xkrqix3 x1sur9pj x1fey0fg x1s688f\" tabindex=\"0\" role=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Kai.tensai?__cft__[0]=AZbMFKZ3bLVgvs3uxL3GoH3jXe8C3mLHR922R3edq-EOGPlGKta-_9Jeuh9z27dgA5DHKUX2BMq0Su54GyE4OzWpASvRBMt3k8fQ_nsaNXCR4-W6aVhdHEXcLKfzhQl1MOQygS7nzvkveTLKUIlPl9IR4LLBjofq3TygViQPKrULAKG6VJZxl8hV7OfSnEWUDQ4&amp;__tn__=-]K-R\"><span class=\"xt0psk2\"><span class=\"xjp7ctv\">Ng\u00f4 H\u1ea3i S\u01a1n<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span> and <span class=\"html-span xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak xexx8yu xyri2b x18d9i69 x1c1uobl x1hl2dhg x16tdsg8 x1vvkbs\"><a class=\"x1i10hfl xjbqb8w x1ejq31n x18oe1m7 x1sy0etr xstzfhl x972fbf x10w94by x1qhh985 x14e42zd x9f619 x1ypdohk xt0psk2 x3ct3a4 xdj266r x14z9mp xat24cr x1lziwak xexx8yu xyri2b x18d9i69 x1c1uobl x16tdsg8 x1hl2dhg xggy1nq x1a2a7pz xkrqix3 x1sur9pj x1fey0fg x1s688f\" tabindex=\"0\" role=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nima.sherpa.420937?__cft__[0]=AZbMFKZ3bLVgvs3uxL3GoH3jXe8C3mLHR922R3edq-EOGPlGKta-_9Jeuh9z27dgA5DHKUX2BMq0Su54GyE4OzWpASvRBMt3k8fQ_nsaNXCR4-W6aVhdHEXcLKfzhQl1MOQygS7nzvkveTLKUIlPl9IR4LLBjofq3TygViQPKrULAKG6VJZxl8hV7OfSnEWUDQ4&amp;__tn__=-]K-R\"><span class=\"xt0psk2\"><span class=\"xjp7ctv\">Nima Sherpa<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span> for completing the &#8220;Triple Crown&#8221; of Everest, Lhotse and today, Nuptse between May 20 and 24, claiming the fastest time for the three peaks. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/dawasteven\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dawa Stephen Sherpa<\/a> of Asian Trekking did the &#8220;Triple&#8221; between May 17 and 21.<\/div>\r\n<div>\r\n<h2>Next Week on Everest\u00a0<\/h2>\r\n<div>We should see the last of the summits, as the Icefall Docs say they are moving the ladders on Friday, May 29.<\/div>\r\n<div>\u00a0<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<div>\r\n<h2>Nepal Permit Update<\/h2>\r\n<p>As of May 15, 2026, Nepal has issued 1,181 climbing permits to 142 teams across 30 peaks, bringing in $8.43 million US dollars in permit fees, with Everest accounting for $7.1 million. Everest climbers are from 55 countries. China has the most climbers at 109, followed by the U.S. at 77, India at 61 and the UK at 32. There are 105 female climbers on Everest this season. This is the current tally for the 8000ers.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<table style=\"width: 45.541591%; height: 202px;\">\r\n<thead>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 48px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 30.555556%;\"><strong>8000er<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 15.277778%;\"><strong>Teams<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 18.333333%;\"><strong>\u00a0 Male Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 19.722222%;\"><strong>Female Clients<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 48px; width: 11.944444%;\"><strong>Total<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/thead>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 10px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Annapurna I<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 18.333333%;\">19<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 19.722222%;\">8<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 10px; width: 11.944444%;\">27<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Dhaulagiri<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">18<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">12<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">30<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Everest<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">389<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">105<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">494<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Kanchenjunga<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">4<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">23<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">13<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">36<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Lhotse<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">14<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">99<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">44<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">143<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Makalu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">11<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">51<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">21<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">72<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td style=\"text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">Manaslu<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 15.277778%;\">1<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 18.333333%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 19.722222%;\">0<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 11.944444%;\">2<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; text-align: left; width: 30.555556%;\">TOTALS<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 15.277778%;\">89<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 18.333333%;\">601<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 19.722222%;\">203<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"height: 24px; width: 11.944444%;\">804<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<h2><!-- \/wp:post-content -->\r\n<!-- wp:tadv\/classic-paragraph \/-->\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph --><\/h2>\r\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\r\nAlan<br \/>\r\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\r\n<h2><!-- \/wp:paragraph --><\/h2>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>Death Total\u2014Seven across the Himalaya\u00a0<\/h2>\r\n<h3>Other 8000ers\u2014Two Deaths<\/h3>\r\n<p>May 10\u2014<strong>Makalu II<\/strong>, Czech climber,<strong> David Roub\u00edne<\/strong>k, 38, fell ill at high altitude and died while being assisted down from Camp III.<\/p>\r\n<p>May 10\u2014<strong>Makalu<\/strong>, American <strong>Shelley Johannesen<\/strong>, 59, was struck by an avalanche around 7,000 meters during her descent after summiting. Expedition Himalaya supported her.<\/p>\r\n<h3><strong>Everest\u2013Five (four climbing)<\/strong><strong>\u00a0Deaths<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<ol>\r\n\t<li>May 22-Indian climber,<strong> Sandeep Are,<\/strong> died descending after summitting with Pioneer Adventures<\/li>\r\n\t<li>May 22-Indian climber, <strong>Arun Kumar Tiwari<\/strong>, died descending after summitting with Pioneer Adventures<\/li>\r\n\t<li>May 3, <strong>Lakpa Dendi Sherpa<\/strong>, 51, from Gudel village, died at about 5,200 meters on his way to Everest Base Camp.<\/li>\r\n\t<li>2. May 10\u2014<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/bijaya.ghimire.688817\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>Bijaya Ghimire Bishwakarma<\/strong><\/a>, 35, the first Nepali Dalit climber to summit Mount Everest, died on Sunday while ascending from Base Camp to Camp. He worked for TAG Nepal<\/li>\r\n\t<li>3. May 11\u2014<strong>Phura Gyaljen Sherpa<\/strong>, 20, from Thame village, slipped and fell at around 7,000m on the Lhotse Face, just below Camp 3.<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<p>One disturbing fact about the two Indian deaths is that there are reports that both climbers were feeling unwell during their ascent. If true, they should have been turned around and not allowed to summit. I see this mistake every year. We need more training in high-altitude medicine for every Sherpa with client responsibility. These two deaths were preventable, in my view. Pioneer needs to account for this.<\/p>\r\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\">\r\n<hr \/><\/div>\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">Here&#8217;s the Podcast of the Weekend Update<\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><div id=\"kgvid_kgvid_0_wrapper\" class=\"kgvid_wrapper kgvid_wrapper_auto_left kgvid_wrapper_auto_right\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"video_kgvid_0_div\" class=\"fitvidsignore kgvid_videodiv\" data-id=\"kgvid_0\" data-kgvid_video_vars=\"{&quot;id&quot;:&quot;kgvid_0&quot;,&quot;attachment_id&quot;:&quot;49506&quot;,&quot;player_type&quot;:&quot;Video.js v8&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;640&quot;,&quot;height&quot;:&quot;360&quot;,&quot;fullwidth&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;fixed_aspect&quot;:&quot;vertical&quot;,&quot;countable&quot;:true,&quot;count_views&quot;:&quot;start_complete&quot;,&quot;start&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;autoplay&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;pauseothervideos&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;set_volume&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;muted&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;meta&quot;:true,&quot;endofvideooverlay&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.alanarnette.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/12\\\/summitcoach-e1483568572550.jpg&quot;,&quot;resize&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;auto_res&quot;:&quot;automatic&quot;,&quot;pixel_ratio&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;right_click&quot;:false,&quot;playback_rate&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update-Nearing the End&quot;,&quot;skip_buttons&quot;:[],&quot;nativecontrolsfortouch&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;locale&quot;:&quot;en&quot;,&quot;enable_resolutions_plugin&quot;:false}\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/top-of-world-2.jpg\"><meta itemprop=\"embedUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-May-24-Weekend-Update-Nearing-the-End.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"contentUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-May-24-Weekend-Update-Nearing-the-End.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"name\" content=\"Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update-Nearing the End\"><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"Video\"><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2026-05-24T16:49:23-06:00\">\n\t\t\t\t<video id=\"video_kgvid_0\" playsinline controls preload=\"metadata\" poster=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/top-of-world-2.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"fitvidsignore video-js kg-video-js-skin\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Everest-2026-May-24-Weekend-Update-Nearing-the-End.mp4?id=0\" type=\"video\/mp4\" data-res=\"720p\">\n\t\t\t\t<\/video>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"kgvid_below_video\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_below\"><div class=\"kgvid-viewcount\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_viewcount\">3 views<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t<div style=\"display:none\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_meta\" class=\"kgvid_video_meta kgvid_video_meta_hover \">\n\t\t\t\t<span class=\"kgvid_meta_icons\"><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<span id=\"video_kgvid_0_title\" class=\"kgvid_title\">Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update-Nearing the End<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div><br \/>\r\n<br \/>\r\n<br \/>\r\n<\/p>\r\n<p>You can listen to #everest2026 <strong>podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<h2>Previous Everest 2026 Season Coverage Posts<\/h2>\r\n<ul>\r\n\t<li>Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update &#8211; Nearing the End<\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/23\/everest-2026-a-few-more-summits-speed-runner-is-climbing\/\">Everest 2026: A Few More Summits, Speed Runner is Climbing<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/22\/everest-2026-garrett-madison-podcast-from-camp-2-2-more-deaths\/\">Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/21\/everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary\/\">Everest 2026: The Western Team\u2019s Turn, My Summit Anniversary<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/20\/everest-2026-may-20-summit-recap\/\">Everest 2026: May 20 Summit Recap: 270 Summits!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-admin\/post.php?post=49393&amp;action=edit\">Everest 2026: Ski Descent and More Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a class=\"row-title\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-admin\/post.php?post=49386&amp;action=edit\">Everest 2026: Weather Alert and More Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/17\/everest-2026-may-17-weekend-update-climbers-to-the-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 17 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbers to the Summit<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/13\/everest-2026-ropes-reach-summit-time-to-wait\/\">Everest 2026: Ropes to Summit, Time to Wait<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/12\/everest-2026-everest-death-lhotse-summit\/\">Everest 2026: May 10 Weekend Update &#8211; Ropes to South Col, Everest Death<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/03\/everest-2026-may-3-weekend-update-climbing\/\">Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update &#8211; Climbing!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/29\/everest-2026-route-to-camp-2-in-with-risks\/\">Everest 2026: Route In &#8211; With Risks<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/27\/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in\/\">Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update &#8211; Icefall Route In?<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/19\/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update &#8211; 8000er Summits<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/12\/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive\/\">Everest 2026: April 12 Weekend Update &#8211; The Khumbu is Alive!<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/04\/everest-2026-are-everest-climbers-being-poisoned\/\">Everest 2026: Are Everest Climbers Being Poisoned?<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/04\/02\/everest-2026-climber-rescue-alert\/\">Everest 2026: Climber Rescue Alert<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/26\/everest-2026-climbers-to-watch-this-season\/\">Everest 2026: Climbers to Watch this Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/17\/everest-2026-north-side-closed-new-rules-in-effect-everest-2026-season-update\/\">Everest 2026: North Side Closed, New Rules in Effect: Everest 2026 Season Update<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/03\/01\/everest-2026-icefall-doctors-launched\/\">Everest 2026: Icefall Doctors Launched<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/23\/everest-2026-rumor-fire-season\/\">Everest 2026: Rumor Fire Season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/13\/everest-2026-welcome-to-everest-2026-coverage\/\">Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage &#8211; An overview of what to expect during the Spring 2026 climbing season<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li>\u00a0<\/li>\r\n\t<li>\u00a0<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h2>Background<\/h2>\r\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/26\/everest-by-the-numbers-2026-edition\/\">Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition &#8211; A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/01\/28\/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2026-edition\/\">Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; A detailed look at Everest&#8217;s routes, commercial, standard, and non-standard<\/a><\/li>\r\n\t<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/02\/03\/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-everest-2026-edition\/\">How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2026 Edition &#8211; My annual analysis of Everest climbing costs, from solo and unsupported to fully guided<\/a><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns.<\/p>\n<p>The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients. \u00a0The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":49495,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,147,828,81],"tags":[432,448,829,439,595],"class_list":["post-49486","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2026-coverage","category-everest-news","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2026-coverage","tag-everest-news","tag-everest-popular-posts"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update - Nearing the End - The Blog on alanarnette.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"alanarnette.com is a site covering big mountain climbing including Everest, K2, and the 7 summits. 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