{"id":49519,"date":"2026-05-27T11:37:03","date_gmt":"2026-05-27T17:37:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=49519"},"modified":"2026-05-27T11:37:03","modified_gmt":"2026-05-27T17:37:03","slug":"everest-2026-last-summits","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2026\/05\/27\/everest-2026-last-summits\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2026: : Last Summits?"},"content":{"rendered":"
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We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O’s climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os\u2014also, an update on what qualifies for a no-supplemental-use-of-oxygen climb. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th.<\/sup>\u00a0 The final total for the Everest- Nepal side summit will most certainly top 1,000, including members, guides and Sherpas.\u00a0<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n

Yes and No to No Os and Runners<\/h2>\r\n
Kristin Harila, supported by Mingtemba Sherpa and Pasang Dukpa, got two of the three Triple Crown without Os. She summited Everest this morning sans the bottle. Also summiting with no Os was Chinese Yan Chunqi, with 14 Peaks.<\/div>\r\n
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Justin Sackett turned back near the Balcony, around 27,500 feet, while attempting his highest altitude ever, with Ama Dablam being his top. He had stomach issues last week, so that probably played a role in turning around – so close. A similar situation for Saulius Damulevicius, turning back near 8400 meters.<\/div>\r\n
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The two runners attempting no Os FKT records had mixed results. Ecuadoran Karl Egloff<\/a>, posted on IG:<\/div>\r\n
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After 13 hours on the move, we reached Camp 4 at the South Col. Although we may have been able to summit, we knew the descent would have been too risky due to fatigue, altitude sickness, and my partner, [Nicol\u00e1s Miranda,] not feeling well. We decided to return to Base Camp nonstop.<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n
Meanwhile, American Tyler Andrews left for his no Os FKT ascent at 7:11 PM, local time, from EBC. You can follow him on his tracker<\/a>.<\/div>\r\n
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FNT – Valid or Not, after use of Os?<\/h2>\r\n

I reached out to Billie Bierling, the lead of the THG Himalayan Database, to ask whether Tyler’s use of supplemental oxygen during the “trail” run disqualified his actual no O’s real attempt. Her response:<\/p>\r\n

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It is true that in Elizabeth Hawley\u2019s time, we did not accept an ascent without bottled oxygen if the climber had used supplemental oxygen during the same expedition. However, at that time, the question of making one ascent with oxygen and a subsequent ascent without it hardly ever arose. Most climbers attempted only one mountain per season and generally made just a single summit push on that mountain. Moreover, those climbing without bottled oxygen were usually purists who would not even consider putting on an oxygen mask.<\/p>\r\n

When Ryan Mitchell arrived at Base Camp and required bottled oxygen for medical reasons, our view was that he remained on the same expedition, having already used supplemental oxygen due to illness. Under those circumstances, it did not feel appropriate to recognize a subsequent ascent as oxygenless had he continued his climb. However, Ryan Mitchell never contacted us directly to discuss his case, which we would have been very willing to do.<\/p>\r\n

When Tyler Andrews contacted us with his request, we revisited the issue within the Himalayan Database team. We also consulted high-altitude specialist Professor Dr. Mike Grocott regarding any possible physiological advantage gained from prior oxygen use. His view was that there is no real evidence for a significant physiological advantage. Based on these discussions, we concluded that we needed to adapt to modern climbing realities and accept an ascent from Base Camp to the summit and back to Base Camp without supplemental oxygen, even if oxygen had been used on a separate climb within the season.<\/p>\r\n

As Professor Grocott noted: \u201cIt seems to me that it may be easier to make a subsequent ascent without additional oxygen if you have already climbed the same route with supplemental oxygen, but this is from a climbing and psychological perspective rather than a physiological one. It is very difficult to know the definitive answer to this question, but I would say it is the physiological equivalent to a Redpoint ascent.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<\/div>\r\n

Wednesday, May 27, 2026, Summits – 50+<\/h2>\r\n

Garrett Madison moved past Dave Hahn at 15 and behind Kenton Cool at 20 to second in most non-Sherpa summits, his 16th. He had a good climb:<\/p>\r\n

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Hey! This is Garrett<\/a> checking in for the Madison Mountaineering<\/a> Everest<\/a> (8848m\/29,032ft) team.<\/p>\r\n

We have great news to report\u2026 Today, the last members of our expedition, Everest<\/a> team all reached the summit! That\u2019s myself, Jeff Arnold, Terray Sylvester<\/a>, Reid Tileston, along with the incredible Sherpa team: Siddhi Ghising, \u00a0Mani, Ardi, \u00a0Hira, and Santosh. And we are all back in Camp IV (7900m\/25,919ft) now, safe and sound, resting, recovering, and planning to head down to Camp II (6500m\/21,325ft) and base camp (5364m\/17,598ft) the following day.<\/p>\r\n

(We) had a great day! The weather cooperated, winds dropped down, and we had some great views on the way up. It was a little cloudy up top, but not crowded at all, and we just had a wonderful time up there. A great way to conclude our expedition with all the members that were up here at the South Col<\/a>, and going for the summit, topping out on Everest<\/a>!<\/p>\r\n

So, been a fantastic expedition, and we will check in soon.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n