{"id":6032,"date":"2011-05-01T02:00:38","date_gmt":"2011-05-01T09:00:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=6032"},"modified":"2012-12-15T07:47:32","modified_gmt":"2012-12-15T14:47:32","slug":"the-final-2-minutes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2011\/05\/01\/the-final-2-minutes\/","title":{"rendered":"The Final 2 Minutes"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Alan<\/a>
Alan inspecting Everest from Pumori yesterday<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While the title of this dispatch may not resonate with those outside of the US, it seems true of many sports that for most of the game, professional sports teams seem to trade goals waiting for the final two minutes before getting serious about wining or losing. Well, climbing is kind of like that.<\/p>\n

We spend weeks going up and down the mountain to establish camps, build red blood cells, prepare our bodies and mind and then over a period of days then hours, we go for the summit – win or lose – it game over; well at least for the moment; the memories will last a lifetime.<\/p>\n

I am at about halftime in my game with Everest.<\/p>\n

Since coming down from Camp 2 at 21,500′ in the Western Cwm, I have been fighting a battle with an upper respiratory infection – and it was winning. The three days med course I was on was simply not working. I was getting weaker, not eating, and not sleeping. The next stage could have been pneumonia.<\/p>\n

So in consultation with my Docs, both IMG and Everest Er, I changed course and took a different med and path and am glad to report turning the corner. Today’s big event was a shower and a shave thus delaying my Santa Claus transition with my white beard and greying hair. No worry on the pot belly however since I have now lost 12 pounds. I am ready for the last 2 minutes.<\/p>\n

Many followers of Everest climbs read about teams who have a great trek to Base Camp, then make speedy climbs through the Icefall and spend the required night at Camp 3 on the Lhotse face. They wait for the weather window and then summit, returning to Kathmandu for a celebratory dinner at the Rum Doodle. It is rarely that easy.<\/p>\n

I don’t report my illness for sympathy, as an excuse or to be a martyr but rather to share what really happens on these climbs – at least for me. And I am not alone. Getting sick is part of the journey during long climbs, some don’t; most do. However, the key is to deal with the issue up front, be honest with your support system, communicate and be to let our bodies do what they do . The most difficult part is mental, not physical.<\/p>\n

As I lay in my sleeping bag, it is 9:20PM. I went to bed at 7. I have not slept. My head is pounding, my nose is running and every turn brings on another wave of coughing. I am sure my teammates in tents a few feet away are ready to do me in. Time moves at glacial speed. It is now 11:07. I tap my digital watch as if that will make time go faster. The camp has finally settled down for another short evening. The stoves will light back up at 1:00AM for the next round of climbers heading back up. But not me.<\/p>\n

I roll over and pull my down bag against my neck. Yet I feel claustrophobic and fight the zipper to let me breath. I am now cold and pull it back to my neck. Another crocodile roll, coughing attack and I sit straight up. I fight to unzip the bag that has my arms in sarcophagus mode. Damn-it, I am not a mummy. Where is that zipper?<\/p>\n

My frustration rages and my body temp rises. Drool out my mouth, snot out my nose, my heart pounds, my head is about to explode from within. The zipper moves an inch before getting caught in the fabric. Another round ensues. I finally break free only by sticking my arms straight above my head. With the bag around my neck, my arms straight above my head, my face red as it can be, all I need is a tiny car and huge shoes to complete the circus act. I take a deep breath to regroup.<\/p>\n

I tap my watch again. It is 11:23PM. Sunrise in 6 hours, breakfast in 7 and half. I stare at the tent ceiling debating whether to unzip all the vents or seal them shut – both bad ideas. My eyes close against my will but my brain denies sleep. If this continues, I will be on the bench during the last two minutes.<\/p>\n

The struggle continues for days on end, no sleep at night yet no rest during the day. Something has to give. However, I know deep down I am hurting, not hurt.<\/p>\n

I draw strength from thinking about my mom’s struggle during these times. She was hurt but she never let it on to world she was hurting. Her constant smile, small laugh and enduring spirit impacted others throughout her life. She touched so many even as Alzheimer’s sealed its grip on her.<\/p>\n

Long expeditions require patience like so many things in life; there are so many variables out of our control. We simply try to cope while doing everything we can; to take personal responsibility and to control our own destiny. It benefits no one to ignore reality and wish a bad situation better.<\/p>\n

The new meeds course has finally taken hold and I feel much better. Last night was the sleep I have in 10 days. I need at least two full days at 100% before I commit to returning to the Western Cwm. I am now behind the rest of the team for rotations but I am not worried. Remember we are just starting the second half.<\/p>\n

The IMG Camp 3 has now been established thus opening the door for rotations to this harsh test. We will climb the Lhotse Face and sleep without supplemental oxygen forcing our bodies to deal with reality. This rotation is the dry run for the summit. The Hybrid team is there today, most of the Classic team leaves tonight for their rotation. I will stay at Base Camp until Wednesday to make sure I have fully recovered. Kami just smiles when we talk, touching my elbow gently telling me to rest, stay warm and no hurry. Even with these delays, I will be ready for the original summit schedule in mid May.<\/p>\n

Other teams are gearing up for the same schedule and the Face will get a bit crowded. Summit windows are only discussed in hush tones it at all given the windows are still weeks away. The annual poker game begins. Same as every year with teams trying keep their schedule secret to avoid the crowds and every year the crowds emerge on this the most popular of all 8000m mountains.<\/p>\n

The ropes to the summit should be fixed in the next week. The schedule was to have all the line and anchors to the South Col by May 5th and then a cross-team effort of elite Sherpas will fix the lines to the top of world thus opening the flood gates.<\/p>\n

As I continue to say, Everest is the longest and most difficult of the 7 Summits. It requires the most patience and has one of the highest probabilities of getting sick or something going wrong. But you know, it may be the most rewarding for all those reasons.<\/p>\n