{"id":7578,"date":"2011-11-22T13:23:39","date_gmt":"2011-11-22T19:23:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=7578"},"modified":"2025-03-31T16:44:06","modified_gmt":"2025-03-31T22:44:06","slug":"7-summits-gear-review","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2011\/11\/22\/7-summits-gear-review\/","title":{"rendered":"7 Summits Gear Review"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Sorting
Gear Check in Anchorage<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Climbing 8 big mountains in 11 months required many things but proper gear was a must. In this post, I will review what I used, what worked, no what didn\u2019t;\u00a0 taking it a layer at a time.<\/p>\n

To review, I did 8 climbs with 7 summits in 11 months. They were: Vinson (Antarctica), Aconcagua (South America), Everest (Asia), Denali to 17K when stopped by weather (North America), Elbrus-North (Europe), Kilimanjaro (Africa), Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania), Kosciuszko (Oceania).<\/p>\n

I will refer to the mountains as coldest: (Vinson, Denali and Everest) and warmest (Kilimanjaro, Carstensz and Kosciuszko) with Aconcagua and Elbrus in the middle.<\/p>\n

I am not a sponsored climber by an outdoor company and bought the majority of my gear with my own money with a few exceptions I note.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

CLOTHING<\/h2>\n

Base Layer – body and feet<\/h3>\n

I love merino wool and this year validated my confidence. I wore the same First Ascent (FA) top and bottom base layer<\/span> on every climb – one pair without change. Even after 6 weeks up and down Everest, it never stank, felt clean and did what a base layer should do. While FA worked well, any merino wool base layer is a good .<\/p>\n

I did use Patagonia polyester\/spandex blend briefs<\/span> while trekking and low on climbs and switched on summit pushes to a heavier Cloudveil wool\/spandex brief<\/span> for extra warmth.<\/p>\n

As for socks, I bought the cheapest pair of merino wool socks from REI<\/span>. I used the same four pairs for all eight climbs. I always kept a pair in reserve for my summit night. Also I used a pair of somewhat thick merino socks for lounging in the tent and especially cold nights in my sleeping bag. They never went into a boot.<\/p>\n

As much I love my merino wool, I have a absolute favorite I have worn for years, the Mountain Hardwear Power stretch suit<\/span>.\u00a0 It is made from Polartec and is warm, protects from wind pushing through layers and very comfortable as a one piece suit (with conveniently placed zippers front and back!). A life saver on the extreme days. I wore it on all the ‘cold’ climbs for summit night and always above C2 on Everest.<\/p>\n

\"Gear<\/a>
The 7 Summits Gear for Mt. Vinson<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Head, Hands and Eyes<\/h3>\n

First on the head covering, it is critical to note that every, and I mean every, jacket I own has a hood. It is a critical part of my overall system so when it gets windy or cold, I pull it up. I also wore a wool knit cap I bought 10 years ago as my primary skull hat. It is simple and effective. I took a ball cap for full sun days but only occasionally used it. I carried a full balaclava but again almost never used it, even on the Everest summit push.<\/p>\n

I used a thin Buff<\/span> and it was a critical item keeping my neck and face warm but allowing easy ventilation. A must have on every climb.<\/p>\n

I wore several thin pairs of running gloves that wore through on every climb but protected my hands from excessive sun on the treks to base camp. My go-to gloves were from Mountain Hardwear<\/span> (MH), where I had a pro deal. I used their Torsion<\/span> gloves as my primary, mild weather layer and on Carstensz where the rock was razor sharp.<\/p>\n

As I gained altitude or the weather closed in I used the MH Medusa full gauntlet gloves<\/span> with an incredible removable fleece liner. I user the liner more often than any other glove. But when it got cold, I pulled the Medusa\u2019s on and was never cold.<\/p>\n

On Everest I used my Black Diamond (BD) Mercury Mitts<\/span> with the MH liner. I could hold my ascender and clip in and out of the fixed ropes just fine. And my hands never got cold even in -20F temps at 40 mph winds. I did use chemical hand warmers from Grabber<\/span> on Vinson, Denali and Everest – they worked well but not as long as advertised.<\/p>\n

Eye protection was simple, I used a pair supplied to me from Julbo, the Explorers<\/span>. They were comfortable, and protected my eyes in all conditions from blizzards to bright sunny day. I liked the integrated strap for a tight fit in windy conditions. While I wore goggles on Everest, I could have used the Explorers from base camp to summit and back. The lenses did fog and freeze up on Vinson. I used the fashionable Beko nose guard<\/span> on Denali.<\/p>\n

Outer Layers<\/h2>\n

Bottoms<\/h3>\n

For the treks, including in and out on Everest and the warm climbs, I used the MH Matterhorn, zip-off thin nylon pants<\/span>. On occasion I wore my base layer bottoms under these on chilly days.<\/p>\n

High on all the mountains, including Everest, I wore my Patagonia Guide Pants. They are lined and have a wind proof outer shell (polyester\/spandex). My legs were never cold even in Antarctica when the temps were -30F at times. I appreciated the suspenders as I lost weight. Extremely satisfied with these pants.<\/p>\n

I almost always carried my emergency layer of the Arcteryx full Gortex Bibs<\/span> on the coldest climbs. They serve as my bomber layer in extreme conditions – wind and water proof. I never used them on any climb, except Aconcagua, but they have saved my bacon several times in harsh conditions.<\/p>\n

I only experienced rain twice: Kili and Carstensz. Both times the Patagonia Rain Shadow jacket and pant<\/span> were perfect – breathed well and kept me dry.<\/p>\n

I packed the MH Chugach pant<\/span> for the coldest weather climbs (Vinson, Denali, Everest) and use them as a base camp lounging layer. They were warm and comfortable and added another layer if I ever got cold in my sleeping bag.<\/p>\n

Tops and Shells<\/h3>\n

I always started with a merino wool (Ibex)<\/span> as my shirt. If it was cold, I started with the wool base layer (FA).<\/p>\n

If I was a bit chilly due to wind, I wore my Marmot Wind Shirt<\/span>. It weighs nothing and is always in my pack – and of course it has a hood! On this mid layer, I also used the Patagonia R1 Hoody<\/span>. Very warm when used with layers and comfortable to boot.<\/p>\n

If it was raining like on Kilimanjaro or in wet snow on Everest in the Western Cwm, I wore my Patagonia Rain Shadow. In windy conditions, I only used my Patagonia Jetstream jacket<\/span>. Both accommodated my climbing helmet.<\/p>\n

I almost always had my Feather Friends Volent Jacket<\/span> with me. This is an 800 fill down jacket (with hood) that I wore high on Everest and on breaks (Denali, Vinson) and when the winds and temps were extreme. Of note, many gear lists ask for heavier jackets but I have always been happy with this level. This was my warmest layer not counting my The North Face down suit<\/span> that I used only on Everest.<\/p>\n

Feet (boots)<\/h3>\n

Maybe the most critical item on my list, and the one I had the most difficulty with. I had two categories: trek and climb. Kayland had provided me with several boots and mostly they performed well.<\/p>\n

The key characteristic required for the 7 Summits was durability. I wore the Kayland Vertigo High<\/span> for most of the treks and they worked well but failed me high on Kilimanjaro when I sprained my ankle. I used the Montrail Feather Peak<\/span> with good results trekking on Kosciuszko and rock climbing on Carstensz Pyramid.<\/p>\n

On Aconcagua, Elbrus and Denali I used the Kayland 6001<\/span> mid weight boot. My feet got a little chilly and sometimes felt damp but otherwise they worked well and were lighter than a heavier double plastic boot. I did wear my 40 Below overboots<\/span> with them on Denali and loved the overboots.<\/p>\n

On Everest used the Kayland 8001<\/span> boot with integrated gator similar to LaSportiva and Koflach. My feet stayed warm and I was pleased with the boot until the zipper failed. Thankfully it was after my summit but I was still on the South Col. I used string and duck tape to keep them together until I got down. Of note, this is not uncommon on many of these 8000m high gator boots so it is good to be prepared.<\/p>\n

I used the Hotronics<\/span> footbed warmer on Everest but they gave out after 3 hours into my 12 hours day. While the batteries were going, they did add a bit of warmth to my feet.<\/p>\n

On Denali I used my trusted Atlas 12 Series snowshoes<\/span>.<\/p>\n

Sleeping<\/h2>\n

I used three different sleeping bags. For the coldest climbs, I used a MH down filled -20F Wraith bag<\/span> and absolutely loved it. No need for the heavy and expensive -40 bag. The MH down filled 0F Phantom<\/span> worked very well at base camp on the coldest and as my primary bag on the warmest. I did use a +20F synthetic bag on Carstensz where it was extremely wet.<\/p>\n

For pads, my primary pad for all climbs was the Exped Downmat<\/span> – very comfortable and warm. On the coldest climbs I added the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite pad.<\/p>\n

For creature comfort, I always used a cotton pillow case (airplane sized) stuffed with my down jacket as a pillow, wore a pair of thick merino wool socks when extra cold and lounged in a fantastic pair of down booties from Sierra Design<\/span>. On Denali, with the 24 hour sun, I used a pair of eye shades. Finally, I always slept in my wool knit skull cap.<\/p>\n

I used a Naglene collapsible canteen<\/span> as a pee bottle.<\/p>\n

Technical Equipment<\/h2>\n

My only harness throughout the climbs was the Black Diamond (BD) Chaos<\/span>. Easy to get on and off with adjustable leg straps and double back belt. Also easy to attach or detach a variety of \u2018biners as needed. Not as complicated as the often recommended BD Alpine Bod which requires \u2018biners to complete the belt.<\/p>\n

My crampons were the BD Sabertooth Pro<\/span>. I used the BD Raven Pro 75cm Ice Axe<\/span> and my old Petzel Erin Rock Helmet<\/span>. I bought a new BD Tracer but it was crushed in my duffel bag during transit.<\/p>\n

I mostly used BD carabiners and preferred the Nitron<\/span> which has a smooth nose for easy on and off to fixed lines. My lockers were BD and jumar was my old trusted Petzel<\/span>. The rappel device was the big BD Super 8 model<\/span> to accommodate frozen ropes.<\/p>\n

I mostly used a headlamp from Princeton, the Quad BL<\/span> and carried as a backup, the BD Ion. I only used lithium batteries.<\/p>\n

I took a pair of the BD Trail Shock pole<\/span> and used only one most of the time and sometimes not at all.<\/p>\n

Packs<\/h2>\n

I used the 85L Osprey<\/a><\/span> for Vinson, Aconcagua, Denali and Elbrus where I carried large loads but preferred the Mountain Hardwear 70L South Face<\/span> for smaller loads on Everest, Kili, and Carstensz. I would replace the Osprey with the MH BMG pack for my next big load trip. I used my very old BD 45L Shadow pack<\/span> as my main trekking pack<\/p>\n

I packed everything into two Gregory XL duffel bags<\/span>. Both have held up well for years.<\/p>\n

I never used my trusted MSR Dromedary hydration system but deferred to the old reliable Nalgene bottles for liquid.<\/p>\n

Tents<\/h2>\n

My tents were supplied as part of the group gear. I ended up sleeping in Mountain Hardware Trango<\/span> 3 or 4 person tents or the Eureka<\/span> version. Both performed very well.<\/p>\n

Stoves<\/h2>\n

The MSR Dragon Fly<\/span> or XGK-EX is the favorite around the world.<\/p>\n

Electronics<\/h2>\n

I used satellite phones to update this blog from across the globe. Thuraya<\/span> was the phone on Everest but Iridium<\/span> for all the other climbs, which was a mistake. I had continuous issues with Iridium not keeping a connection thus limiting my upload of pictures with my text dispatches. it was very frustrating and expensive. I recommend Thuraya when you can but they do not have coverage for Aconcagua, Vinson and Denali.<\/p>\n

I used the SPOT GPS<\/span> tracker successfully. It allowed my family and friends to see where I was every step of the way all the way to the summits! Highly recommended.<\/p>\n

I took my Apple MacBook Air<\/span> on all the climbs and to Everest Base Camp. it worked extremely well as did my iPods<\/span>. My trekking camera was my old standby, a Nikon D50<\/span> and for climbing I took my Canon G7<\/span> but it failed on Everest so I switched to a Canon SD870 IS<\/span> which worked very well.<\/p>\n

Food and Snacks<\/h2>\n

Honey Stinger<\/span> was my primary snack food. They gave me a nice discount and I found the honey was more digestible for me than other ‘energy bars” but everyone is different in this area. I liked the CamelBak electrolyte tablets<\/span> for my water – added flavor without being overbearing and made a difference in how I felt.<\/p>\n

Summary<\/h2>\n

I have used most of this same gear for many years and it works for me. That said, there is a lot of good choices in the gear market today. The biggest mistake I saw was that many of my teammates brought too much gear – too many jackets especially. I used the same core set of gear for every climb thus reducing my weight plus simplifying the process when I needed to grab a piece quickly. And as always, mountaineering gear is all about layers – having the right ones on at the right time – not too cold, not too hot.<\/p>\n

Most of the gear I used and list on my site<\/a> have newer versions but rarely offer a significant improvement so look for the features as you shop. As always, I recommend using the website Spadout (no affiliation whatsoever) to shop for the absolute lowest prices on gear. I rarely have paid full retail for any of mine.<\/p>\n

Standouts\/Must Have by Mountain:<\/h2>\n

Vinson<\/h3>\n

Eye care: Julbo Explorer
\nwarm sleeping system: MH Wraith -40F plus Exped Downmat<\/p>\n

Aconcagua<\/h3>\n

Sturdy hiking shoes<\/p>\n

Everest<\/h3>\n

Eye care: Julbo Explorer
\nShell Pants: Patagonia Guide pants
\nWarm sleeping system: MH Wraith -20F plus Exped Downmat
\nWarm summit system: down suit, 8000m boot<\/p>\n

Denali<\/h3>\n

Eye care: Julbo Explorer
\nShell Pants: Patagonia Guide pant
\nWarm sleeping system: MH Wraith -20F plus Exped Downmat
\nVersatile Jacket system: FF Volent, Patagonia Hoody, MH Jetstream<\/p>\n

Elbrus (north)<\/h3>\n

Warm summit layers: Patagonia MicroPuff, Patagonia Hoody<\/p>\n

Kilimanjaro<\/h3>\n

Rain gear: Patagonia Rain Shadow jacket and pant
\nSturdy hiking shoes<\/p>\n

Carstensz Pyramid<\/h3>\n

Sturdy gloves: MH Torsion
\nDurable sleeping bag: MH +20F synthetic<\/p>\n

7 Summits Standout Gear<\/h2>\n
    \n
  1. First Ascent Merino wool top and bottom base layer<\/li>\n
  2. Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch Suit<\/li>\n
  3. Patagonia Guide Pants<\/li>\n
  4. Patagonia Micropuff Jacket<\/li>\n
  5. Patagonia R1 Hoody<\/li>\n
  6. Buff<\/li>\n
  7. Julbo Explorer Sunglasses<\/li>\n
  8. Mountain Hardware -20F Wraith Sleeping Bag<\/li>\n
  9. ExPed Downmat<\/li>\n
  10. Mountain Hardwear South Face pack<\/li>\n
  11. Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro Crampons<\/li>\n
  12. Sierra Design Down Booties<\/li>\n
  13. Black Diamond Mercury Mitts<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    You can see my complete list on my website.<\/a><\/p>\n