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# The Blog on alanarnette.com

Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's

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## Posts

- [7-Summits-in-One-Year-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/12/23/7-summits-in-one-year-podcast-with-garrett-madison/) - As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times on Cho Oyu, watched one of his teams struggle, like the others,
- [2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris Tomer](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/12/12/2025-wrap-up-talking-weather-with-chris-tomer/) - Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest. The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter
- [Everest 2026: Khumbu Icefall Bypass-Real or a Dream?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/11/25/everest-2026-khumbu-icefall-bypass-real-or-a-dream/) - Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest summit. These articles seem to confuse a new route with an old trekking route reopened, and may not
- [Autumn 2025: Deadly Season Across the Himalaya](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/11/03/autumn-2025-deadly-season-across-the-himalaya/) - The 2025 Himalayan Autumn climbing has been a deadly one with multiple deaths across several mountains. Similarly, several events occurred in the Alps, taking five lives. Authorities had warned strongly about heavy snow in the Himalaya and advised climbers and trekkers to pause all activity for a few days. Seven Deaths on Nepal's Yalung Ri
- [Autumn 2025: Dire Weather for Himalays Ahead, Everest NF Ski Descent Film Teaser](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/28/autumn-2025-dire-weather-for-himalays-ahead-everest-nf-ski-descent-film-teaser/) - Authorities and meteorologists are issuing dire warnings for climbers and trekkers in Nepal's Himalayas. Seizing the opportunity to pre-market the documentary of Jim Morrison's legendary ski descent down Everest's North Face, National Geographic released a short teaser revealing the scale and courage it took to complete this feat. A Russian team opens a new route
- [Autumn 2025: Everest NF Ski Descent, Everest Legend Death and More](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/20/autumn-2025-everest-nf-ski-descent-everest-legend-death-and-more/) - While teams summited Cho Oyu, the world's sixth-highest peak, a fifty-year-old American skied down the North Face of Mt. Everest. An Everest 1953 legend has passed away. The recent heavy snowfall across both sides of Everest created a host of false, poorly written, and poorly researched articles about "stranded climbers on Everest." The only
- [Podcast with Peter Hillary](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/10/podcast-with-peter-hillary/) - New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953. An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over 40 expeditions and adventures that most of us only dream of.
- [Autumn 2025: Stranded Tourists, Manaslu Summits and More](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/06/autumn-2025-stranded-tourists-manaslu-summits-and-more/) - Somewhat surprisingly for this time of year, a massive snowstorm hit Southern Tibet, stranding tourists but not climbers. However, one climber died on a Nepal trekking peak. The storm moved on, allowing climbers to continue. Prior to the storm, excellent weather enabled hundreds of Manslu summit and nice progress on the other peaks. There is
- [Everest 2025 Podcast with Bianaca and Paul Adler](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/03/everest-2025-podcast-with-bianaca-and-paul-adler/) - Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Adler, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as she struggled to breathe upon returning to Camp 4 at the South Col after reaching
- [Autumn 2025: Everest Ski Descent and Manaslu Records](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/09/26/autumn-2025-everest-ski-descent-and-manaslu-records/) - With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have
- [Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/09/19/autumn-2025-nepal-unrest-as-climbing-begins/) - UPDATE Sat, Sept 20: Rope team summits Manaslu. The autumn Himalayan climbing season is well underway, with minimal impact from the violence and protests that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu. Here's what's behind the protest and an overview of what's happening in the mountains. Nepal Unrest Update Curfews have been lifted, and relative calm has
- [K2 Podcast with Ryan Mitchell–After K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/09/08/k2-podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-after-k2/) - Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams. They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they climbed a previously unclimbed peak near K2 for acclimatization, so there
- [Everest just became more expensive and unattractive to some](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/09/03/everest-just-became-more-expensive-and-unattractive-to-some/) - On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal's most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions designed to mitigate any negative press around the price increase. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has effectively used
- [K2 2025 Coverage Wrap: A Rocky Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/24/k2-2025-coverage-wrap-a-rocky-season/) - The summer 2025 Karakorum for the 8000-meter peaks is over, and what a season it was. There were summits, deaths, disappointments and survivals. Was it a “successful” season? I’ll leave that judgment to others—but honestly, it often felt like safety took a back seat to ambition. Safety or Summit First? Conflict between Pakistan and India
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Risk Taking Case Study - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/10/k2-2025-coverage-risk-taking-case-study/) - UPDATE 1 August 11, 2025 - There were 27 reported K2 summits by Imagine Nepal Team and Prakash Sherpa’s Climber Alpinist Expeditions (CAE). Safe descents have not been confirmed. Imagine Nepal posted details: We are excited to announce that at 15:32 PKT on August 11, 2025, a team of 15 climbers from Imagine Nepal successfully
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Dozens K2 Summits in Rough Conditions - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/11/k2-2025-coverage-dozens-k2-summits-in-rough-conditions/) - UPDATE: August 12, 2025: Nine more summits were reported late, bringing the total to at least 41. It appears, but not 100% confirmed, that all have descended safely. August 11, 2025 - 32 K2 summits were reported, including by Imagine Nepal Team, Seven Summits Treks, elete Expeditions and Prakash Sherpa’s Climber Alpinist Expeditions (CAE). Safe
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Slow K2 Summit Progress But Optimism Prevails - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/08/k2-2025-coverage-slow-k2-summit-progress-but-optimism-prevails/) - UPDATE 8/9/25: Rockfall too dangerous tor the Madison team, including Ryan, so they called it Now preparing to leave. others continue having a different risk tolerance calculation . Ryan is disappointed but understands the decision. The unrelenting winds stalled most teams and sent more members home as time, supplies and motivation ran out. Most
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Death after Summit From Rockfall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/13/k2-2025-coverage-death-after-summit/) - A tragic incident occurred involving one of Imagine Nepal's clients, Guan Jing, who resides in the San Jose area. She was inadvertently struck by a rock between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp and sadly lost her life. The accident occurred on Tuesday night, August 12, 2025 (Pakistan time). She had successfully summited with Mingma
- [Everest 2014: My Relationship with "my" Sherpa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/04/22/everest-2014-relationship-sherpa/) - With so much talk of Sherpas and their role on Everest, I want to share my experience with Kami on Everest 2011.
- [K2 2025 Coverage: K2 Summit Push On! - Update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/05/k2-2025-coverage-k2-summit-push-on/) - Update 8/8/25 local: Madison Mountaineering & Ryan holding at ABC on 8/8/25 due to winds and potential rockfall. Time running short, but safety over summits. Other teams at C1/2 are rumored to be higher, but Sherpas are concerned. I think it will conclude in the next few days. UPDATE August 6, 2025 5:00
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Hope Springs Eternal](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/31/k2-2025-coverage-hope-springs-eternal/) - Pakistan's Northern Territories are seeing climbers leave while trekkers enjoy stunning, rugged mountain vistas. It looks like the action is over on the two Gasherbrums and Broad Peak, with only GII seeing summits; however, climbers remain at K2 Base Camp, hoping for one last break and then a chance to summit. K2 - Waiting Popular
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Another Windy Monday, More teams drops out.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/28/k2-2025-coverage-another-windy-monday-another-team-drops-out/) - The winds continue across the Northern Territories, now hitting the Gasherbrums. One team stopped their summit attempt on GII, citing poor conditions above C3, while another gave up on Broad Peak. For those remaining on K2 and BP, they're constantly glancing at their watches, calendars, and the summit. Tick, tock-time is running out. They
- [K2 2025 Coverage: Weather Stalls Plans, Or Not?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/25/k2-2025-coverage-weather-stalls-plans-or-not/) - Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber,
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Death Reported on K2 - Update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/18/k2-2025-coverage-death-reported-on-k2/) - Update 2: The deceased HAP was Iftikhar Hussain from Sadpara in Skardu. He supported the US-based Mountain Professional team and was with Dawa Finjo Sherpa and Dawa Geljen Sherpa from Nepal and high-altitude porter Niaz Ali from Skardu. Finjo was injured and helicoptered to Skardu for treatment. source In a separate incident reported by Pamir
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Death, Summits and Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/20/k2-2025-coverage-death-summits-and-progress/) - Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Climbing in Peril - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/14/k2-2025-coverage-climbing-in-peril/) - Update July 15: Ryan Kushner (not young Ryan on K2) on Broad Peak stopped his climb due to high winds. He said the same thing happened on K2, stopping the rope fixing between Camps 2 and 3. Ryan reported: Aborted my rotation due to 2—extreme wind. Apparently, the forecast was supposed to be good. I
- [K2 Summer 2022: K2 Rope Progress, Broad peak Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/20/k2-summer-2022-k2-rope-progress-broad-peak-summits/) - Broad Peak saw more summits, including some mind-boggling fast times. The ropes are nearing the summit of K2, and progress continues on Gasherbrum II. The spike in the winds came and went, and conditions are suitable for now. Look for K2 summits anytime now, first by the rope team. Big Picture - The Summit Push
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Injured Climber on Broad Peak - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/11/k2-2025-coverage-injured-climber-on-broad-peak/) - Finally, a bit of snow fell on Karakorum's high mountains; however, the good came with the bad. On Broad Peak, an avalanche between Camps 2 and 3 injured a Polish climber. K2 climbers prepare to go up, but are wary of rockfall. News is sparse from all the Pakistani 8000-meter peaks. Northern Pakistan recorded some
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Dry, Hot, and Rockfall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/08/k2-2025-coverage-dry-hot-and-rockfall/) - The Karakorum's drought continues due to the low snowfall from Spring combined with warmer-than-normal temperatures; thus, rockfall is a real danger on K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and the Gasherbrums. Ryan Mitchell and his K2 team are acclimatizing on a nearby unclimbed peak, hoping for snow in the next two weeks. They're doing well, but
- [K2 2025: Coverage Begins & First Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/29/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits/) - Climbing across the Karakorum is underway, with reportedly the first summits of this 2025 summer season on Nanga Parbat. A few teams arrived at several of Pakistan's five 8000-meter mountains. Popular US climber Ryan Mitchell is on the trek to K2, hoping to add it to his 8000er collection, which includes Everest last year. Conditions
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Teams at BC and Trekking. First Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits-2/) - Teams are arriving at K2 Base Camp, but communications are limited, so not much information is coming out. We know that conditions are harsh, with high temperatures and low snow in the lower mountains. Given the absence of snow, climbers are concerned about rockfall this year. K2 Nepali operators Seven Summits Treks, Elete Expeditions, and
- [K2 Podcast with Ryan Mitchell–Preparing  for K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/17/k2-podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-preparing-for-k2/) - Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, has gained considerable recognition thanks to his impressive video documentation of his 2024 summit of Mt. Everest with Madison Mountaineering. Exciting news! He’s all set to leave for K2 on Saturday, June 21, 2025. You may recall that in December 2022, Ryan contacted me for guidance and coaching on
- [K2 2025: Coverage: Death on Nanga Parbart](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-death-on-nanga-parbart/) - Tragically, there was a death on Naga Parbart, and the details were misreported. This is from Seven Summits Treks on what happened. Note that independent climbers summited before SST. German Alpinist David Göttler was successful on his fifth attempt on the Rupla Face in Alpine Style, summiting along with Boris Langenstein and Tiphaine Duperier. On
- [Live from Denali Summit with Garrett Madison](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/14/live-from-denali-summit-with-garrett-madison/) - Live from Denali Summit with Garrett Madison in a 2025 season with the lowest summit numbers in history thus far. Real-time interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, from the summit of Denali on June 14, 2025. It's been a very cold year, as documented by the rangers: Recent travel conditions and cold temperatures are
- [Everest 2025: Season Summary](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/11/everest-2025-season-summary/) - The 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity. Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made
- [Everest 2025: Two More Deaths, along with Windy Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/19/everest-2025-two-more-deaths-along-with-windy-summits/) - On May 19, 2025, summits continued across the Himalayas, with success on Everest and Kangchenjunga. The total number of Everest summit attempts is well over 350. Two more deaths, both on Lhotse, bring the Himalaya season total to fourteen, with two of those unconfirmed. I'll update this post or post a new one if more
- [Everest 2025: Final Summits?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/27/everest-2025-final-summits/) - We may have seen the final summits on both sides of Everest for this Spring season. Also, one of the speed runners gave it one last try to set a record. And Kami Rita extends his record to 31 summits of Everest, leading 59 climbers to the summit. Big Picture First, it's time to leave
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update May 11–Summit, Summits and more Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/11/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-11-summit-summits-and-more-summits/) - Summit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest. The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of
- [Everest 2025: Earthquake, Summits, Rescues and a Death–Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/12/everest-2025-earthquake-summits-rescues-and-a-death/) - Update: I spoke live to Adrian Hayes. He is fine and in Kathmandu. He didn't have altitude sickness as originally reported, but was bumped off a high ridge by another climber and suffered a severely bruised arm, which impaired his descent. While a successful weekend was achieved across four of Nepal's 8,000-meter peaks, tragedy struck
- [Everest 2025: Mass Everest Summits, with More to Come](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/14/everest-2025-mass-everest-summits-with-more-to-come/) - Taking advantage of a brief respite in the high winds, around 54 people summited Everest from the Nepalese side on May 13, 2025. Meanwhile, dozens are staged at high camps, looking to storm the top after May 18th. On the Tibet side, look for teams to depart for the summit on May 17th, according to
- [Everest 2025: More Everest Summits and A Death Reported](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/15/everest-2025-more-everest-summits-and-three-deaths-reported/) - Thursday, May 15, 2025, was a blustry day for Himalayan summits, with low winds. However, some teams will wait a few more days, after May 20th, for a longer window of stable weather, while others will thread the weather needle and try on the 18/19. While there were summits, there were also deaths, the first
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update May 18–Summit, Summits and Preventable Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/18/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths/) - Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 275. May 14th, 15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side
- [Everest 2025: Winds are Retuning –Summit Now or Later?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/18/everest-2025-winds-are-retuning-summit-now-or-later/) - Everest teams are staggered on the Nepalese side, from Camp 1 (AAI) to Camp 2 (Madison) at the South Col (Summit Climb), aiming to reach the summit before a forecasted high wind hits on the afternoon of May 20. Alternatively, a better strategy might be to wait for a predicted period of several days with
- [Everest 2025: Fast Everest Summits 3 or 5 Days?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/21/everest-2025-fast-everest-summits-3-or-5-days/) - The 2025 Spring Everest season continues to bring surprises, with summits claimed after leaving home for three and five days, using supplemental oxygen. Meanwhile, others continue to summit the traditional way and enjoy the overall experience, as the season winds down. A cyclone may impact Everest in a few days. Weather Warning– Better Summit by
- [Everest 2025: Last Summits on Nepal Side, Tibet Staged](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/23/everest-2025-last-summits-on-nepal-side-tibet-staged/) - With high winds returning to what has already been a windy season, we can expect the Nepalese side of Everest to become quiet while the Tibetan side will close out with thunder! Look for the last summits of the 2025 Spring season to happen on the north side of Chomolungma. Summit Update As has become
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update May 25–Season Ending Soon](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/25/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-25-season-ending-soon/) - What a week on Everest! We had both regular and unique summits, some of which may have unintended consequences for years to come. On the other 8000ers, the season came to a close with a few inspiring stories. The action is not over quite yet, even with an impending storm threatening to close the Icefall
- [Everest 2025: LIVE Summit Interview with Garrett Madison](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/23/everest-2025-live-summit-interview-with-garrett-madison/) - THIS IS SPECIAL!!!! Garrett Madison, who is recognized as one of the most accomplished Everest guides in history, spoke with me LIVE from the summit of Everest on May 23, 2025. He has personally reached the summit of Mount Everest 15 times and, as expedition leader, has guided more than 80 clients to the top
- [Everest 2025: Climbers to Watch and a Death on Ama Dablam](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/30/everest-2025-climbers-to-watch-and-a-death-on-ama-dablam/) - With Nepal Everest permits for foreigners breaking 400 and on the Tibet side, including Chinese nationals and Sherpas/Tibetan support climbers, approaching 300, there are a few individual climbers I will be following closely. Heavy snowfall has stalled progress over the last few days, but has restarted. An Austrian climber died on Ama Dablam. Big Picture
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 13–Icefall In, Summits and Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/13/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-icefall-in-summits-and-deaths/) - It was a tough week in the Himalayas. We saw summits on two 8,000ers, and two Sherpas died. The Icefall Doctors finally established the route to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall. Additionally, it appears that the early predictions of a record and crowded Nepal side are coming true, with more permits issued at this
- [Everest 2025: Lhotse Summits, Everest Soon & Anticipation](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/08/everest-2025-lhotse-summits-everest-soon-anticipation/) - The last few days of low winds have allowed the rope fixing teams to make excellent progress. The rope team from 8K Expeditions summited Lhotse this afternoon, May 8, 2025, marking the first summits of the year. A separate team from 8K will summit Everest tomorrow. This opens the season to the plethora of climbers
- [Everest 2025: Managing the Crowds for "Summit Weekend"](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/06/everest-2025-managing-the-crowds-for-summit-weekend/) - The weather forecast calls for light winds any day now, allowing the rope team to continue fixing to the summit. As of May 6, they've got it to the South Col on the Nepal side and probably above 7900 meters on the Tibet side. This will open the mountain for scores of clients with one
- [Everest 2025: Pumori Avalanche, Makalu Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/04/everest-2025-pumori-avalanche-makalu-death/) - As the Sherpas continue fixing the route to the summit on both side, other events are capturing climbers attention on Everest and Makalu. The drone that landed in a crevasse last week was recovered, but is damaged. Pumori Avalanche On May 4, 2025, there was a large avalanche off Pumori spraying Everest Base Camp-Nepal. This
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update May 4–Waiting on the Ropes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/04/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-4-waiting-on-the-ropes/) - Poor weather is delaying getting the fixed ropes to Everest's summit on both sides but is looking better. The Nepal side Everest permits have reached 444, with more permits issued each day. EverestER has seen over 400 patients thus far. Some teams have completed their acclimatization protocols while others haven't started. An interesting season to
- [Everest 2019: Climbers to Watch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/13/everest-2019-climbers-to-watch/) - This year, most Everest climbers will take the standard routes but a few will be seeking new routes or new reason for climbing the highest peak on earth. I look at a few.
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 27–On the Move!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/27/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-27-on-the-move/) - Drone crash, Icefall collapse, ropes to Camp 3, and climbers tag Camp 2. 374 Everest permits thus far, but only 48 on the Tibet side. New rules from the Nepal Government. It's been a busy week on Everest. Big Picture Many teams will do a couple of training days at EBC before going on their
- [Everest 2025:Remembering The Day Nepal Shook–10 Years Later](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/25/everest-2025remembering-the-day-nepal-shook-10-years-later/) - April 25 is always a difficult day in Nepal. This year, 2025, marks the tenth anniversary of the deadly 7.8 magnitude earthquake that occurred in Nepal, taking 9,000 lives, including 19 at Everest Base Camp. I'm sure there will be many services, memorials, and simple, quiet moments to honor those who died and keep their
- [Everest 2025: When Will They Summit?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/22/everest-2025-when-will-they-summit/) - The Khumbu is busy. Base Camp is filling up. Climbers are posting selfies and are already acclimatizing at Camp 1. Everest 2025 is underway, but when will they summit? Headlines Teams are streaming into Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side. Many Western guides have arrived–Alpine Ascents International, Summit Climb, International Mountain Guides, Climbing the
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 20–BaseCamp Sprawl](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/20/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-basecamp-sprawl/) - The 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It's a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short
- [Everest 2025: April 18, A Day to Remember](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/18/everest-2025-april-18-a-day-to-remember/) - On April 18, 2014, at 6:35 am, an ice serac released a small section onto the Khumbu Icefall. 16 Sherpas were killed in a moment as tons of ice fell, leaving the mountain workers with few options and nowhere to hide. Historically, on April 18, there was no climbing to honor the fallen. Still, memories
- [Annapurna 2025: Podcast with John Black on Sherpa Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/15/annapurna-2025-podcast-with-john-black-on-sherpa-deaths/) - As I previously reported, two Sherpas lost their lives when struck by an avalanche on the 8000er, Annapurna, on April 7, 2025. Ngima Tashi and Rima Rinje were swept into a deep crevasse between Camps 2 and 3. Four days later, Sherpas located their bodies using RECCO reflective technology after several helicopter searches proved unsuccessful.
- [Annapurna 2025: Risky Decisions - April 7 Update: Summits and Missing Sherpas](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/03/annapurna-2025-risky-decisions/) - UPDATE 2: Over 45 summits Multiple teams, including Imagine, Pioneer, and Seven Summits Treks, reported summits on April 6 and 67, perhaps over 45. However, as of 8:ooPM, April 7 local time, two Sherpas are missing between Camps 2 and 3 due to an avalanche. This area was the most concerning for everyone, as South
- [Annapurna 2025: Summit and Missing Sherpas](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/07/annapurna-2025-summit-and-missing-sherpas/) - Multiple teams, including 8K, Imagine, Pioneer, and Seven Summits Treks, reported summits on April 6 and 7, perhaps over 45. However, as of 8:ooPM, April 7 local time, two Sherpas are missing between Camps 2 and 3 due to an avalanche. This area was the most concerning for everyone, as South Africans Warren Eva and John
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 6–1st 8000er Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/06/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-6-1st-8000er-summits/) - Despite ominous weather and route conditions, various media reports have at least four climbers summiting Annapurna on Sunday, April 6, 2025. Early reports of disturbing conditions on Annapurna seem to be mirrored on Everest. The Kumbu is buzzing with activity, and the Icefall Doctors are struggling again this year to get the route through the
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 30](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/03/30/everest-2025-weekend-update-march-30/) - Early data suggest Everest will see a record year, primarily driven by Chinese and Indian clients. I won’t be surprised to see over 1,000 total summits from both sides. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. Sherpas are setting up Base Camp, which is starting to look like a small city. The Himalayan winter was warm
- [Podcast with Jost Kobusch's Winter 2024/25 Everest West Ridge Record Climb](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/02/01/podcast-with-jost-kobuschs-winter-2024-25-everest-west-ridge-record-climb/) - German Alpinist Jost Kobusch is back home after accomplishing his objective of a winter, solo, no-O’s climb to tag over 7500 meters on Everest’s West Ridge. In this podcast, we go into deep detail on his climb. If you are a climber, explorer or sour on the entire Everest scene, this is for you. Jost
- [Everest 2025: Nepal New Rules- Some Good, Some Not](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/02/10/everest-2025-nepal-new-rules-some-good-some-not/) - In an admirable effort to reduce deaths and save lives on Everest, the Nepal government has implemented two additional rules for the upcoming 2025 Spring season. One is a great idea, but the other is not so great. However, the efforts still lag the magnitude of the problems. Instead of enacting rules to minimize missing
- [Two Dead on Carstensz Pyramid-Update with Video](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/03/02/two-dead-on-carstensz-pyramid/) - Deaths on Carstensz Pyramid, one of the Seven Summits, are rare, but two women tragically lost their lives on March 1 while descending during a storm. The 4,884-meter (16,024-foot) peak poses challenging logistics and is the most technical of the seven, requiring basic rock climbing skills for primarily 5th-class terrain on fixed ropes. Unselfish Rescue First
- [Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 23](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/03/23/everest-2025-weekend-update-march-23/) - The Everest 2025 season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 1,000 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are
- [7 Summits Gear Review](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/11/22/7-summits-gear-review/) - Climbing 8 big mountains in 11 months required many things but proper gear was a must. In this post, I will review what I used, what worked, no what didn’t; taking it a layer at a time. To review, I did 8 climbs with 7 summits in 11 months. They were: Vinson (Antarctica), Aconcagua (South
- [Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/03/17/everest-2025-welcome-to-everest-2025-coverage/) - Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2025 coverage! 2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on it three other times (all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003, and 2008, each
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest? - 2025 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/01/13/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-everest-2025-edition/) - Welcome to Everest 2025. This post goes in-depth on your options and risks and provides an overview of the financial aspects of climbing Everest from either Nepal or Tibet. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several Everest 2025 big-picture updates before the season officially begins in early April: Everest by
- [Comparing the Routes of Everest - 2025 edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/19/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2025-edition/) - Welcome to Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several Everest 2025 big-picture updates before the season officially begins in early April: Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition
- [Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/16/everest-by-the-numbers-2025-edition/) - Welcome to Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several Everest 2025 big-picture updates before the season officially begins in early April: Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update March 22 - And We're Off!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/27/everest-2022-weekend-update-march-27-and-were-off/) - The Everest 2022 season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 500 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are
- [How Many 8000-meter Mountains are There?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/02/03/how-many-8000-meter-mountains-are-there/) - Nepal continues to try to expand the number of 8000-meter mountains from 8 to 14, but it's not their decision. It will take approval from the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) to become official; even then, I doubt it will generate a sea change in the 8000er world. Mountaineering is famous for these disputes,
- [2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest, Manalsu, Annapurna](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/24/2024-25-winter-himalaya-climbs-everest-manalsu-annapurna/) - The winter season has begun for three of the 8000ers: Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna. Each is unique in style, and professional climbers are at the helm. Jost Kobush on West Ridge German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France, is back on Everest for his fourth winter, solo, no-O's climb on the West
- [2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs End. An Everest Preview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/01/29/2024-25-winter-himalaya-climbs-end-an-everest-preview/) - All four of the four 8000er winter climbs—Everest, Manaslu, Makalu and Annapurna—are over, showing the difficulty of climbing these high peaks in winter. Only one met its goal. Meanwhile, the usual pre-Everest antics are in full swing. Makalu Over The two climbers, Abolfazl Gozali,62, of Iran and Sanu Sherpa,49, of Nepal, ended their Makalu climb
- [Everest 2025: Climb Everest in a Week using xenon gas - update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/01/24/everest-2025-climb-everest-in-a-week-using-xeon-gas/) - Some foreign guides and a few Nepali guides offer fast Everest climbs, lasting two to four weeks instead of the traditional six to eight weeks. This is an increasingly popular option, and a new twist promises to reduce this to just one week, from home to home. The primary market consists of individuals who can
- [Vinson Massif](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/12/23/vinson-massif/) - Antarctica 16,067',4897 meters Summited December 9, 2010 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's 600 miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was first summited in 1966 by climbers led by Nicholas Clinch from the American Alpine Club and the National Science Foundation. It was the last of the 7 Summits to be summited. It was named
- [Vinson Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/12/09/vinson-trip-report/) - Antarctica 16,067',4897 meters Summited December 9, 2010 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's Pristine and perfect—Antarctica. I am unsure how else to describe my experience climbing her highest peak, Mt. Vinson. As this was the first of my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's, where I am raising awareness and money for research, it was critical
- [Vinson FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/12/09/vinson-faq/) - Antarctica 16,067',4897 meters Summited December 9, 2010 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's About Vinson Q: Where is Vinson A: 600 miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was first summited in 1966 by climbers led by Nicholas Clinch from the American Alpine Club and the National Science Foundation. It was the last of the 7
- [Kilimanjaro Home](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/09/19/kilimanjaro-home/) - Tanzania, Africa 19,340 feet/5896 meters Summited September 19, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's Kili is among the world’s highest volcanoes at 19,340 feet / 5894 meters. The highest is Ojos del Salado, at 22,615 feet/ 6893 meters on the Argentina/Chile border. German Hans Meyer first summited Kili in 1889. The volcano has three peaks:
- [KIlimanjaro FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/09/11/kilimanjaro-faq/) - Tanzania, Africa 19,340 feet/5896 meters Summited September 19, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's About Kilimanjaro Q: Where is Kilimanjaro? A: Kilimanjaro is located in Tanzania, Africa. It is unique not only for being the highest in Africa and one of the 7 summits but also for having one of the highest stand-alone vertical gains
- [Elbrus Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/08/01/elbrus-trip-report/) - Russia 18,513',5642 meters Summited August 11, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's About Elbrus Climbing the highest peak in Europe was more of a cultural experience than a mountaineering accomplishment. That said, climbing on summit day was challenging and rewarding, and I found Russia a great place to visit. Violence in the Elbrus region had
- [Elbrus FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/08/01/elbrus-faq/) - Russia 18,513',5642 meters Summited August 11, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's About Elbrus Q: Where is Elbrus A: It is located in Russia. Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia. Mt. Elbrus has two main summits - the higher western summit at
- [Kosciuszko FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/10/27/kosciuszko-faq/) - Australia 7,310 feet/2229 meters Summited October 27, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's About Kosciuszko Q: Where is it A: Known historically as Tan Gan Gil, "Kozzy" is located in Australia in New South Wales and is also a local ski area in the Kosciuszko National Park. The nearest largest city is Canberra, equidistant between
- [Kosciuszko Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/10/27/kosciuszko-trip-report/) - Australia 7,310 feet/2229 meters Summited October 27, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's With a tip of my hat to Dick Bass, who started all the 7 Summits stuff, I wanted to include Kosciuszko in my project. I had summited Carstensz on October 22, 2011, and flew immediately to Sydney, focused on completing my 8th
- [Kosciuszko](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/10/27/kosciuszko/) - Australia 7,310 feet/2229 meters Summited October 27, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's Australia's Kościuszko, located in Australia's Snowy Mountains, is the lowest of the 7 Summits but is perhaps the most controversial. First, there is the pronunciation, then there is the debate about how it compares to other high peaks in Oceania (is New
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 2–Kościuszko](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/09/30/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-2-kosciuszko/) - Australia's Kościuszko (7,310'/2228m), located in the Snowy Mountains, is the lowest of the 7 Summits but is perhaps the most controversial. First, there is the pronunciation, then there is the debate about how it compares to other high peaks in Oceania (is New Zealand continent?) ), and last is the relative ease of this "hill"
- [Kilimanjaro Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/09/19/kilimanjaro-trip-report/) - Tanzania, Africa 19,340 feet/5896 meters Summited September 19, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's The roof of Africa, Kilimanjaro, was a great cultural experience and a satisfying climb. It was exciting to climb with a team of 14, where 12 had never been above 14,000', and then have everyone reach the summit! The safari afterward
- [Elbrus Home](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/08/01/elbrus-home/) - Russia 18,513',5642 meters Summited August 11, 2011 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia. It has two main summits: the western summit at 18,513'/5642m and the eastern summit at 18,442'/5621m. A Russian army team made the first ascent
- [Mont Blanc FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/1988/07/01/mont-blanc-faq/) - Mont Blanc France/Italy 15,771 feet - 4807 meters About Mont Blanc : Q: Where is it A: It is located in the French Alps on the border between Italy and France. It is actually "owned" by both countries under a bilateral agreement and is called Monte Bianco in Italy. Mont Blanc is a huge massif
- [Mont Blanc Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/1988/07/01/mont-blanc/) - Mont Blanc France/Italy 15,771 feet - 4807 meters Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Western Europe, at 15,771 feet. Mt. Elbrus in Russia is Europe's highest, at 18,513 feet. It is on the border between Italy and France and is called Monte Bianco in Italy. While living in Geneva, Mont Blanc was visible on
- [Ben Nevis FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/03/01/ben-nevis-faq/) - Scottish Highlands 4,409 feet/1344 meters Summited March 5, 2012 About Ben Nevis Q: Where is it A: Known as simply Ben by the locals, it is steeped in history and acclaimed as one of the first climbing spots in the whole UK. It is located in the Scottish Highlands at the western end of the
- [Ben Nevis Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/03/01/ben-nevis-trip-report/) - Scottish Highlands 4,409 feet/1344 meters Summited March 5, 2012 While not all that high, Ben Nevis is steeped in mountaineering history and offers some of the best winter climbing in Northern Europe. I had always wanted to climb Ben but never thought I would have the opportunity, so when planning to speak at an Alzheimer's
- [Ben Nevis Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/03/01/ben-nevis/) - Scottish Highlands 4,409 feet/1344 meters Summited March 5, 2012 I am excited to continue climbing the world to end Alzheimer's. On March 5, 2012, I summited Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK. I was in the UK speaking at the Alzheimer's Disease International annual conference. I told the story of my mom, Ida,
- [Denali Home](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/01/20/denali-home/) - North America: Denali (20,320'/6194m) Denali is the native American name for the mountain. In 1980, in honor of President McKinley, the National Park Service named the surrounding park Denali National Park. In 2015, the mountain's name was officially changed to Denali. It is in central Alaska - 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and
- [Mt. Hood](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2004/07/01/mt-hood/) - U.S. Oregon 11,237 feet 3,426 meters Trip Report July, 2004 Mt. Hood is one of several volcanoes on the west coast of the U.S. It is located fifty miles east of the city of Portland, Oregon, in the Mt. Hood National Forest near the windy town of Hood River. It is very easy to reach
- [Grand Teton](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2000/01/01/grand-teton/) - U.S. Wyoming 8,880 feet/5,754 meters Trip Report September 5, 2000 The Grand Teton is the highest peak in Wyoming's Teton range. I summited it on September 5, 2000, to hone my technical climbing skills in preparation for Ama Dablam. The descent involved 5.6 to 5.8 rock climbing and some serious rappelling. I used the Jackson
- [Orizaba Audio Dispatch: Orizaba Summit!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/01/26/orizaba-audio-dispatch-orizaba-summit/) - Alan does a live dispatch from the summit of Orizaba. To hear this Orizaba 2008 audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains... Climb On! Alan
- [Orizaba Audio Dispatch: Summit Bid Plan](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/01/25/orizaba-audio-dispatch-summit-bid-plan/) - Alan reports from High Camp on the plans for summit bid that night. To hear this Orizaba 2008 audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains.... Climb On! Alan
- [Orizaba Audio Dispatch: High Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/01/24/orizaba-audio-dispatch-high-camp/) - Alan reports from High Camp, plus some excitement when looking for a pair of contact lenses in a pile of garbage! Just click on the play button to hear this Orizaba 2008 audio dispatch. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than
- [Orizaba](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/01/01/orizaba/) - Mexico 8,880 feet/5,754 meters Trip Report January 2008 I have never looked past a current climb toward the next one since I focus all my energy on the current task. However, Orizaba was the last climb in my Memories are Everything®: The Road Back to Mt. Everest journey before Everest, and the temptation was great!
- [Rainier 2015: Summit and Fun](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/07/11/rainier-2015-summit-and-fun/) - This trip report is for my climb of Mt. Rainier in the US Washington State in July 2015.
- [Rainier Home](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/01/01/rainier-home/) - Summited July 10, 2004, July 31, 2012 and July 8, 2015. Washington State, US: Mt. Rainier (14,411'/4392) I have summited Rainier three times, in 2004, 2012, and 2015, summiting through different routes. Overview The National Park Service (NPS) has stopped publishing detailed statistics for Rainer, so this is the latest available. Mount Rainier National Park
- [Rainier FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/01/01/rainier-faq/) - About Mt. Rainier The National Park Service (NPS) has stopped publishing detailed statistics for Rainer, so this is the latest available. Q: Where is Mt. Rainier? A: Rainier National Park in Washington State, US. It is a popular North American climb, with 10,000 attempts each year. The nearest major city is Seattle, and the major
- [Rainier Summit Trip Report 2004](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/01/01/rainier-summit-trip-report-2004/) - After two "non-summit" years on Everest, I was down and wanted a summit. I contacted new and old friends about a Rainier climb, and the Rainier 9 was born. We trained together and virtually for a year to prepare; for many of the team, this would be their first true snow climb. Since we signed
- [Rainier Summit Trip Report 2012](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/01/01/rainier-summit-trip-report-2012/) - My July 2012 climb of Mt. Rainier was unique and complex, representing the best human spirit and a mountaineer's courage. I know—that is quite the setup. Rainier, located in Washington State just outside Seattle, is a jewel for US mountaineering. It has more glaciers, around 26 than any other US peak and one of the
- [Denali FAQ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/01/20/denali-faq/) - About Denali Q: Where is Denali A: The giant massif is located in Alaska. It is the highest mountain in North America at 20,310', and one of the 7 Summits. It is famous for extremely cold weather but is very popular as a guided or self-guided climb. As you drive North from Anchorage, you see
- [Denali 2007 Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/01/01/denali-2007-trip-report/) - This is a very personal, detailed and sometimes graphic report. It chronicles my attempt on Denali in June 2007. My intent is to bring readers into my world of high-altitude mountaineering by showing the incredible rewards, the obvious dangers and what happens when the human body hits the wall. Remember to click on any picture
- [Denali 2011 Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/01/01/denali-2011-trip-report/) - Denali 2011: Failure or Non-Summit? When I started to leave the 17,200 High Camp on Denali without standing on the summit, I wondered how people would consider this effort. One person characterized it this way: “Alan, sorry to hear of the failure, but safety first. Safe travels home.” After spending eight days watching the swirling
- [Denali 2001 Trip Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2001/01/01/denali-2001-trip-report/) - Denali is in central Alaska - 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and 200 miles East of the Bearing Sea. In July 2001, I flew from Denver to Anchorage, drove to Talkeetna, and took a bush plane to land on the Kahiltna Glacier to begin the climb using the West Buttress route. Denali offers
- [2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 3: About Over](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/01/19/2024-25-winter-himalaya-climbs-update-3-about-over/) - Three of the four 8000ers—Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna—are over, showing the difficulty of climbing these high peaks in winter. Only one met its goal. Two climbers on Makalu remain, but winds are stalling their progress. Makalu Stalled Winds, but still there A tiny team of two climbers, Abolfazl Gozali,62, of Iran and Sanu Sherpa,49, of
- [2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 2: Jost Successful](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/01/10/2024-25-winter-himalaya-climbs-update-2-jost-successful/) - The winter season is underway for four of the 8000ers: Everest, Makalu, Manaslu and Annapurna. High winds are stalling two, and two are effectively over. One has met their their goal. Jost Kobush tags 7537m on West Ridge German Alpinist Jost Kobusch is in Dingboache after accomplishing his objective of a winter, solo, no-O's climb
- [2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/31/2024-25-winter-himalaya-climbs-update-1/) - The winter season has begun for three of the 8000ers: Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna. Some have ended before they started. Jost Kobush tags 7537m on West Ridge German Alpinist Jost Kobusch has accomplished his objective of a winter, solo, no-O's climb to reach over 7500 meters on Everest's West Ridge. He made it in six
- [PSA: Looking for climbers who have attempted mountains above 6,000 meters](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/07/psa-looking-for-climbers-who-have-used-hypoxic-training-systems/) - As a public service announcement, I'm sending this invitation to participate in research for climbers who have used hypoxic training systems Thanks Alan Looking for Mountaineers Who Have Attempted to Climb Mountains Above 6000m We are conducting a research project to investigate how people prepare for climbs of mountains above 6,000 m and, in particular,
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 10–Everest with Adrian Ballinger & Mike Hamill Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/17/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-10-everest-with-adrian-ballinger-mike-hamill-interview/) - Mount Everest is the highest mountain in Asia and the world, at 29,031.69 feet or 8848.86 meters, making it the highest of the Seven Summits. With seemingly unlimited attraction, climbing Chomolungma has dramatically changed over the decades. Stradling the border of China (Tibet) and Nepal, it grows by about 0.0063-0.021 inches or 0.16 to 0.53
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 9–Aconcagua with Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/10/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-9-aconcagua-with-garrett-madison-ed-vesturs-interview/) - Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, at 22,902/6960m. It is an excellent warmup before climbing Everest, testing your fitness at altitude and thoroughly testing your gear in harsh conditions. It's a cold peak and an excellent cultural experience. Next week, I wrap up this series with an Everest episode and special guests Adrian
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 7–Kilimanjaro](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/28/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-7-kilimanjaro-2/) - Of all the Seven Summits, Kilimanjaro offers a two-for kind of “climb.” Well, to be accurate, it’s more of a trek to 20,000 feet and a safari for those wanting more Africa. The experiences are a cultural treat made special by everyone you meet in restaurants and hotels, not to mention the guides, porters and
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 8–Denali with Dave Hahn Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/03/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-8-denali-with-dave-hahn-interview/) - Alaska's Denali is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters). It requires the strongest fitness level, Everest's altitude notwithstanding, of the Seven Summits to climb. Yet it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the planet. It's not a climb to be underestimated, but a rewarding experience if you
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 6–Elbrus, Russia](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/20/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-6-elbrus-russia/) - Of all the Seven Summits, Elbrus offers a unique cultural experience as it lies in Russia. Thus, it is the highest peak in Europe and is considered an active volcano. Mont Blanc is second and highest in Western Europe. The Ukraine war has discouraged many climbers from going there, but a few still make it,
- [Everest 2018: Summit Wave 3 Recap - Sherpa Death on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/05/16/everest-2018-summit-wave-3-recap-sherpa-death-on-everest/) - A Sherpa has died on #Everest2018, while close to 100 summited from Nepal, 40 from Tibet 16 May. Disaster avoided when 26 person Alpenglow team turned back due to oxygen failure.
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 3–Mont Blanc](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/04/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-3-mont-blanc/) - OK, I know what you are thinking, "Alan, Mont Blanc is not one of the Seven Summits!" Yeah, I know, but hear me out. On the border between France and Italy, Mt. Blanc stands at 15,771 feet or 4807 meters high, putting it between Kościuszko and Carstensz Pyramid on the "list(s)." You know how the
- [Podcast Series: Introducing The 7 Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/09/18/podcast-series-introducing-the-7-summits/) - Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. The Seven Summits, aka 7S, represent the highest
- [Everest 2022: Alpenglow Makalu Success, Avalanche Death on Lhotse](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/09/everest-2022-alpenglow-makalu-success-avalanche-death-on-lhotse/) - With a good window before a brief windy period, teams are positioning for Everest summits and reaching the summit of Makalu, Kangchenjunga, and Dhaulagiri. But there was a tragedy on the South Face of Lhotse. Makalu Makalu saw multiple successes early on Monday, May 9, 2022. Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow texted me "I summited
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 4–Antartica's Vinson Massif](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/11/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-4-antarticas-vinson-massif/) - I'm often asked what was my favorite climb. I have to set aside Everest and K2 for apparent reasons, but I immediately mention Ama Dablam and Vision. Let me explain. Growing up in Memphis, Tennessee, at an elevation of 338 feet, I never imagined I would climb the world's highest peaks, much less summit Everest
- [Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 5–Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/17/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-5-carstensz-pyramid-puncak-jaya-new-guinea/) - Of all the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid, aka Puncak Jaya, in New Guinea is undoubtedly the most exotic and technical to climb. It's also part of the "list" discussion. Are there seven or eight "Seven Summits?" But just getting there can be the real challenge. The Freeport Mining company controls the area and employs 12,000
- [Remains thought to be Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine found on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/11/remains-thought-to-be-andrew-sandy-irvine-found-on-everest/) - One of the most enduring mysteries of mountaineering, or perhaps in all sports, was the 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Sandy Irvine. It's most notable for whether they summited or not. If they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years. Mallory's body was found in 1999, but there
- [Autumn 2024: Routine Summits Across the Himalaya](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/04/autumn-2024-routine-summits-across-the-himalaya/) - The 2024 autumn climbing season reveals just how routine making the summit of an 8000-meter peak has become in the 2020s. Manaslu has seen over 100 summits, while other peaks are nearing their time. A few individuals added to their trophy box by completing all fourteen 8000-meter peaks with Shishpangma today. Shisha Pangma and Wrapping
- [Autumn 2024: Himalayan Roundup](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/09/17/autumn-2024-himalayan-roundup/) - The 2024 autumn climbing season is underway, with most of the attention on Nepal's Manaslu, often acknowledged as one of the more "attainable" 8000ers. But there are climbers on other 8000ers like Nepal's Dhaulagiri and Makalu. China reopened Tibet to climb Shishapangma and Cho Oyu. And even a team on Everest's Tibet side hopes to
- [Guest Post by Steve House: How to Train for Mount Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/08/05/guest-post-by-steve-house-how-to-train-for-mount-everest/) - To my readers, Long-time followers know I seldom accept guest posts, but recently, through Summit Coach, my consultation service, I partnered with Uphill Athlete to broaden our offerings. I recently did a Podcast with Steve House, Uphill's founder and owner, and he offered to write this essay on training for Everest. Reinhold Messner called Steve
- [K2 2024 Coverage: A Few More Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/07/29/k2-2024-coverage-a-few-more-summits/) - The weather window held for another wave of summits on Monday morning, July 29, 2024. The body of a Pakistani porter was recovered. K2: ~65+ summits Madison Mountaineering topped out today instead of yesterday, holding for a day at high camp for weather and crowds. They had Garrett with his fourth K2 summit, at least
- [K2 2024 Coverage: Summits and Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/07/28/k2-2024-coverage-summits/) - Several teams banded together to summit K2 on the morning of July 28, 2024, while on the other side of the mountain, two Japanese climbers apparently died in a fall. There were also many summits on nearby Broad Peak. Of note this season was the large number of Pakistanis who summited or served as High-Altitude
- [K2 2024 Coverage: Summit Pushes Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/07/26/k2-2024-coverage-summit-pushes-underway/) - Summit pushes are underway for K2 based on hope than science. The weather has been fairly unstable this season. Meanwhile, the nearby 8000ers have already seen a few summits. This summer has been Karakorum's most variable weather season, with mostly high winds delaying or stopping many summit efforts and, in some cases, even acclimatization rotations.
- [K2 2024 Coverage: Weather Delays, Increased Risks](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/07/19/k2-2024-coverage-weather-delays-increased-risks/) - Bad weather is damping activity in Pakistan, but for some, it's the worst case with limited access to the Internet! Climbing team updates are sparse. Most are doing the time-honored Base Camp Wait, while others demonstrate the classic "summit fever" mistake by going on their summit push in marginal weather. As each day passes, teams
- [K2 2024 Coverage: Climbing Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/07/09/k2-2024-coverage-climbing-begins/) - Climbing across the Karakorum is underway with the first summits of this 2024 summer season on Nanga Parbat. Ropes are nearing the high camps on K2. The Pakistani Newspaper Dawn reports that the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department has issued over 1,700 permits to foreign climbers, of which 175 permits have been issued to scale K2. A notable
- [Everest 2024 Podcast: Ryan Mitchell on his Everest Summit–"Life Changing"](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/06/07/everest-2024-podcast-ryan-mitchell-on-his-everest-summit-life-changing/) - Massachusetts native 19-year-old Ryan Mitchell summited Mt. Everest on May 23, 2024, with Aang Phurba Sherpa as part of the Madison Mountaineering team. I interviewed him this week for my podcast. We discussed his experiences from training, climbing to the summit, and returning home. Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago,
- [Everest 2024: Season Summary - Everest at a Rubicon](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/06/05/everest-2024-season-summary-everest-at-a-rubicon/) - Everest 2024 might be remembered for summits, politics, deaths, ignored rules, near misses and disturbing allegations of sexual misconduct. It's difficult to put all this in a headline, but I believe the Everest guiding industry is at a Rubicon - a point of no return. Not to be lost in this mix is the joy
- [Everest 2024: Last Summits of the Season and Another Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/30/everest-2024-last-summits-of-the-season-and-another-death/) - The 2024 Everest season ended well for the Alpenglow group, but sadly, there was another death on the Nepal side. 2024 was a challenging year that may change the trajectory of climbing Everest, especially on the Nepal side. The Icefall Doctors are removing all the ladders in the Western Cwm and Khumbu Icefall, thus officially
- [Everest 2024: Sabotage or Self-Promotion - Cut Ropes?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/27/everest-2024-sabotage-or-self-promotion-cut-ropes/) - Some operators' drama never ends, especially on Everest. In a video posted on Sunday, May 27, the founder of Elite Exped claimed the fixed ropes had been cut, preventing his team from going to the summit. Meanwhile, another team, Pioneer Adventures, reported using the ropes to summit. The leadership of Nepal's climbing community had strong
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 25: Season nears the End with Summits and Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/25/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-25-season-nears-the-end-with-summits-and-death/) - The week's activity on Everest revealed significant issues for climbers. While there were hundreds of summits and several deaths, it wasn't pretty. A route collapse at the Hillary Step could be the canary in the coal mine of Everest. Some Tibet-side teams summited. Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the
- [Everest 2024: More Summits and Deaths as Season Winds Down](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/23/everest-2024-more-summits-and-deaths-as-season-winds-down/) - Summits continue on Everest, but the season may end soon as cyclones build in the Bay of Bengal and the monsoon moves in. We saw thirty-five more summits and, sadly, yet another death on May 23rd. Only one team is going for the summit tonight. Many of you who have followed me know I speak
- [Everest by the Numbers: 2024 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/01/20/everest-by-the-numbers-2024-edition/) - I've updated my annual "Everest by the Numbers" blog post. I looked at summit and death rates, the use of oxygen and its impact on summits and deaths, and disturbing trends like the increasing support for climbers.
- [Everest 2024: More Summits and More Missing Climbers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/22/everest-2024-summit-and-more-missing-climbers/) - Summits continue, but multiple climbers are missing near the Hillary Step after some sort of route collapse. I estimate that through May 22, Everest has seen 379 summits, compromising 214 Sherpas, or 56% and 165 members or 43%. The largest summit days so far were May 19, with 100 summits, and May 21, with 104
- [Everest 2024: Alan Remember's his 2011 Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/21/everest-2024-alan-remembers-his-2011-summit/) - Taking some personal liberty during this Everest 2024 season coverage, I want to share my 2011 Everest summit with an overview, narrative and Podcast. I hope you enjoy it. On May 21, 2011, I stood one step below Mt. Everest’s summit along with Kami Sherpa. It was my fourth try. My three “non-summits” were not
- [Everest 2024: Summit Tsunamis and Puddles. An unconfirmed Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/21/everest-2024-summit-tsunamis-and-puddles-an-unconfirmed-death/) - I used to call the weather windows "Summit Waves," but they are more like Tsunamis with the occasional puddles this year. Usually, we see hundreds of summits each day, but this year, it can be as few as two people for the entire day. The summit winds continue to be fickle this spring. May 21,
- [Everest 2024: Crowds, Wind and Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/20/everest-2024-crowds-wind-and-summits/) - The weather continues to be fickle this spring. Unexpectedly high winds caused a few teams to cancel their move to higher camps while others pushed through and summited. But the fear of crowding has emerged with a vengeance. May 23 has become the new target summit day for many teams. Only a few teams reported
- [Everest 2024: Summit WEEK!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/19/everest-2024-summit-week/) - As expected, with low winds, scores of climbers are summiting Everest. This Sunday, May 19th, morning, it's estimated that over 100 people stood on top of the world. These are some of the totals reported by the teams: 7 Summits Club: 13 clients with Sherpa support not named 14 Peaks Expeditions: 8 clients with 8
- [Everest 2024: Missing Everest Climbers Confirmed Dead, More Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/17/everest-2024-missing-everest-climbers-confirmed-dead-more-summits/) - Expedition operator 8k Expeditions found the bodies of their clients Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 31, near the South Summit, around 8,550m and his climbing partner, Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 53, near the Balcony at 8400 meters. More climbers summited on May 13th and 15th, bringing the total to 97 Everest summits from the Nepal side and the Tibetan rope
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 18: Windy Summits and Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/18/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-18-windy-summits-and-death/) - The week started well, but when the winds picked up, as forecasted, teams took risky chances that turned deadly. Now, with a better forecast, hundreds of climbers are positioned to summit over the next few days. Tibet-side teams are in place and looking at summit plans. Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend
- [Everest 2024: Risky Decision Making](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/16/everest-2024-risky-decision-making/) - High winds were in the forecast from multiple services and internet sites, but some teams either didn't believe them or ignored them and made a summit push on Tuesday, May 15 - around fifty people turned back, and two climbers have been missing for days. Almost every team is targeting this weekend for their summit
- [Everest 2024: Everest Climbers Missing on Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/14/everest-2024-everest-climbers-missing-on-summit-push/) - Multiple media outlets report that two Mongolian climbers are missing. Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 31 and Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 53, were using base camp-only services from 8K Expeditions and climbing together without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. They left for the summit from the South Col at 8:45 a.m. on May 13 and haven't been heard from since.
- [Everest 2024: More Summits, More Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/13/everest-2024-more-summits-more-death/) - As many as fifty people made the summit of Everest on Monday morning, May 13th. Nearby, Lhotse also saw summits. Teams arrived at the base camp on the Tibet side, while a French climber sadly lost his life on Makalu. Winds are coming, so the action will slow for a few days. Nepal Several teams
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 13: First Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/12/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-13-first-summits/) - The first summiteers on Everest marked the beginning of the climbing rush. The rope fixers summited a few days ago, and over thirty-five climbers summited today. Two climbers added to their summit collections to extend their records. Teams arrived at up base camp on the Tibet side, while a respected Sherpa sadly lost his life
- [Everest 2022 Season Summary: The Year of the Missing Jetstream](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/28/everest-2022-season-summary-the-year-of-the-missing-jetstream/) - 2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. This May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas. The net result was nearly 650 people summiting from Everest's Nepal side and another
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/19/everest-2022-summit-wave-9-again/) - Looks like Madison Mountaineering summited Everest around 8:00 am Friday morning, May 20, 2022, right on their schedule. No word yet on names or numbers but there were around 15 total people on the team, including support. This makes Garrett's 12th Everest summit, and the distinction of guiding more people to the summit of Everest, and
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 8 - Ropes to the Summit!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/08/everest-2022-weekend-update-may-8-ropes-to-the-summit/) - It was a busy week in the Himalayas with summits on multiple 8000ers, including Everest. On the Nepal side of the mountain, Kami Rita Sherpa led the rope team to the summit and at the same time extended his summit record to 26. Sadly, there were two more deaths of the season, one on Kangchenchunga
- [Everest 2022: 3rd Death of Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/06/everest-2022-3rd-death-of-season/) - A 52-year-old Indian client of Pioneer Adventure died after leaving Camp 4 on Kangchenjunga. His outfitter, tells the press that his Sherpas told Narayan Iyer to turn back, but he refused. Also, Helicopters are consuming the Khumbu. With most Everest climbers resting at EBC or down-valley waiting for the weather window, the 'other' 8000ers are
- [Everest 2022: Talking Weather with Three Experts](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/05/everest-2022-talking-weather-with-three-experts/) - With both sides of Everest seeing significant activity, let's take a pause and talk to three world-class weather experts about the current situation and what they see in store for May. Also, I ask them to predict the first day for a member to summit Everest. The historical weather pattern on Everest has been a
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 1 - Summits, Rescues and Cimbing - A 'Normal' Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/01/everest-2022-weekend-update-may-1-summits-rescues-and-cimbing-a-normal-season/) - It's May Day on Everest and some teams are having a party, while others are focused on their acclimatization schedule, and some now eying the summit. But everyone needs to wait for the fixed ropes. The upper mountain may have some moderate winds that may delay the rope team. We saw summits on a few
- [Summit Bid Plans](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/05/16/summit-bid-plans/) - After a year of planning, working and dreaming, I leave for the summit of Mt. Everest on Saturday, May 17. Before I go into the details, I want to acknowledge what a gift this past year has been and how fortunate I feel to be in this position. , co-owner of and our guide, has
- [Random Thoughts and a Plan](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/09/28/random-thoughts-and-a-plan/) - My eyes lock onto my heavy boots and sharp crampons as I take another step up the steep snow slope towards camp 2 on Shisha Pangma. Then another and another. The pattern continues. My breathing is controlled yet sounds like a steam engine. My stare is unbroken. Then something changes, the snow underfoot becomes less
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 16–Home and The End](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/10/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-part-16-home-and-the-end/) - The final chapters of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, Part 15, drop today with chapters 49 and 50. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing,
- [Everest 2024: Rope Team Summits Nepal Side–Game On!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/10/everest-2024-rope-teams-summits-nepal-side-game-on/) - Sherpas fixed the route to the summit on the Nepal side as of 8:35 p.m., May 10—exactly when they predicted about a week ago. This opens the Southeast Ridge to about 600 people, clients and support, to make their summit attempts. The Tibetan rope-fixing team summited on May 7, opening that side to about 100
- [Everest 2024: Interview with Uphill Athlete's Founder Steve House](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/09/everest-2024-interview-with-uphill-athletes-founder-steve-house/) - You know you've made your name in the climbing world when Reinhold Messner calls you “the best high-altitude climber in the world.” Today, Steve runs one of the most successful broad-based coaching services. Uphill Athlete, founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston in 2014, has become synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running
- [Everest 2024: First 8000er Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/08/everest-2024-first-8000er-death/) - We have the first death on an 8000-meter peak of the season; a Sherpa with Seven Summits Trek died while descending from Makalu's summit. Teams are getting in position for Nepal side summits while more teams enter Tibet for Everest. Remember that both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma are closed to foreigners for climbing this spring.
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 15–Summit!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/08/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-part-15-summit/) - Part 15 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 46, 47, and 48. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: First Everest Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/07/everest-2024-first-everest-summits/) - We have the first Everest summits of the spring 2024 season. Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow, now in Chengdu on his way to Chinese Base Camp on the Tibet side, tells me the Tibetan rope fixing team summited today, May 7, opening the route to all climbers. This was expected, given China allowed Chinese climbers to
- [Everest 2024: Normal Season with more 8000er Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/06/everest-2024-normal-season-with-more-8000er-summits/) - The Himalayan season continues pretty much normal while we have summits on a few of the "other 8000ers. China has issued climbing permits for their side of Everest. Summits The rope fixing team from Seven Summits Treks has reached Lhotse's summit at 8,516 meters and will now move to the South Col to finish the
- [Everest 2024: Climb Here, But Not There!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/23/everest-2024-climb-here-but-not-there/) - While teams are already in the Western Cwm on the Nepal side, those with Tibetan aspirations are all dressed up with nowhere to go. Teams are still arriving in Nepal, pushing the permits towards 400, still short of the 2023 record. The Chinese government, citing a holiday from May 1st to the 5th, has delayed
- [Everest 2024: Route to Camp 2 & April 18–A Day of Remembrance](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/18/everest-2024-route-to-camp-2-april-18-a-day-of-remembrance/) - Good news from Everest: the route through the Khumbu Icefall is complete through Camp 2, around 21,000'/6400. This opens the route for Sherpas to begin building C1/2 and for members to begin their acclimatization rotations shortly thereafter. Everest permits lag last year's record of 478. As of April 15, 2024, the government issued 274 permits
- [Everest 2024: Tibet Climbs in Peril](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/16/everest-2024-tibet-climbs-in-peril/) - Once again, climbing the Tibet side of Everest has problems–the teams can't even cross the border from Nepal into China. Rain is pelting trekkers on the Nepal side, but many teams are settling in at EBC and having their pujas. There are encouraging reports that the Icefall Doctors have reached the upper section of the
- [Everest 2024: Icefall Misery](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/25/everest-2024-icefall-misery/) - I'm getting reports from climbers who completed their first rotations to Camp 1 and are now back at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side that the Icefall is quite challenging this year. Some say it takes ten hours to navigate the route to Camp 1, which has an amazing number of "zig-zags." The number
- [Everest 2024: High Winds](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/30/everest-2024-high-winds/) - Everest's summit is slammed by hurricane-force winds, causing most teams to hunker down or pause rotations for a few days. However, the fixed ropes have reached the South Col. China confirms it will open the Nepal border on May 7th. Glacial Progress This season will go down as all dressed up and nowhere to go
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 14–Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/06/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-part-14-summit-push/) - Part 14 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 43, 44, and 45. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 21: Route to C2, Permits Catch Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/21/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-21-route-to-c2-permits-catch-up/) - This is the late April Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The headlines are significantly more positive than last weekend: Permits are a bit higher, which is good for the local economy but not so good for the mountain. The fixed ropes, aka the route, are all the way to Camp 2, thus opening the path for
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 28: Teams Into the Western Cwm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/27/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-28-teams-into-the-western-cwm/) - Commercial teams have begun their acclimatization rotations with climbs to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. The Icefall route is more complicated this spring, and some climbers take ten hours or more to reach the first Camp. The fixed ropes are now well up the Lhotse Face. As of this update, no Everest
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 5: Winds Calm, Climbing Continues](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/04/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-5-winds-calm-climbing-continues/) - The biggest news from Everest is the lack of news. Typhone-force winds strafed the mountain like a summer hail storm in Colorado. Reports of forty or more tents were damaged at Camp 2. Despite this, a few teams continued their rotations, and more made plans as hopes increased the fixed ropes would reach the summit
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 13–Climbing Above Camp 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/03/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-part-13-climbing-above-camp-3/) - Part 13 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 40, 41, and 42. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 12–Summit Plan for the Team](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/30/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-12-summit-plan-for-the-team/) - Part 12 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 37, 38, and 39. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Nepal Supreme Court Passes Climbing Rules](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/03/everest-2024-nepal-supreme-court-passes-climbing-rules/) - While tents were being blown around at Camp 2, the Nepal Supreme Court issued a series of well-intended vague rules that potentially will join a long list of ignored rules. The largest and most well-connected operators have long learned that doing whatever they want has no consequences other than making more profit. I applaud the
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 11–First Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/24/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-11-first-summits/) - Part 11 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 33, 34, 35 and 36. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 10–Climbing the Lhotse Face](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/22/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-10-climbing-the-lhotse-face/) - Part 10 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 31 and 32. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 9–Summit Date Planned](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/21/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-9-summit-date-planned/) - Part 9 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 28, 29 and 30. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 8–Suffering at Camp 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/19/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-8-suffering-at-camp-2/) - Part 8 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 25, 26 and 27. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 7–Into the Cwm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/17/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-7-into-the-cwm/) - Part 7 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 22, 23 and 24. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 6–Into the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/16/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-6-into-the-icefall/) - Part 6 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 17, 18 and 19. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 2–Hello Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/10/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-welcome-and-part-2/) - Welcome to Part 2 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I'll have a twenty-minute updated episode of the story a few times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 3–The Trek Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/11/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-3-the-trek-begins/) - Part 3 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 8, 9 and 10. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 4–Blessing in the Khumbu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/13/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-4-blessing-in-the-khumbu/) - Part 4 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 11, 12 and 13. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 5–Arrival At Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/15/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-5-arrival-at-base-camp/) - Part 5 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 14, 15 and 16. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally,
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 14: Icefall Woes, Fewer Climbers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/14/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-14-icefall-woes-fewer-climbers/) - Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update in mid-April. This week's headlines are a bit concerning. The fixed line that should already be at Camp 2 is only halfway through the Icefall. I'm not sure this is bad news for climbers, but Everest permits lag significantly from 2023, down 34%. However, we saw the first
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 7: Climbers on the Trek](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/07/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-7-climbers-on-the-trek/) - Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The Everest spring season is on track. Hundreds of people are advancing towards Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side of the Mountain. The Tibet side remains quiet, as teams will not arrive for at least another week. There are a few snags here and there, but nothing
- [Everest 2024: Interview with Will Cockrell on his new book–Everest, Inc.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/12/everest-2024-interview-with-will-cockrell-on-his-new-book-everest-inc/) - In 2024, Everest has become completely commercialized. Shock, right? Well, Will Cockrell's new book, Everest, Inc: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World, tells us how it happened. If you love Everest, despise it or don't really care, this book has something for everyone. In this fascinating read,
- [Everest 2024: First Days at Base Camp & 1st 8000er summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/11/everest-2024-first-days-at-base-camp-1st-8000er-summit/) - We have our first 8000er summit of the spring season. Seven Summits Trek's rope-fixing team topped out on Makalu at 4:40 p.m. Meanwhile, commercial teams stream into Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side. However, the Icefall Docs still have problems in the upper Icefall. Thankfully, most teams are still on their trek, so there's
- [Everest 2024: Leaving Grass and the Trekker's Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/08/everest-2024-leaving-grass-and-the-trekkers-summit/) - It's a huge day at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side, aka EBC–the first commercial team has arrived! This is almost a week earlier than in 2023. It will be their home until late May unless they are on acclimatization rotation and, of course, the summit bid. The majority of Everest summits occur between
- [Everest 2024: The Namche Hill](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/03/everest-2024-the-namche-hill/) - Parallel universes are happening right now on Everest—trekking to base camp, building base camp, and putting in the climbing route. On the Nepal side, many climbers and trekkers are well into their six- to eight-day journey, taking in the sights and changing their lives as they experience the grace and beauty of the Khumbu. Meanwhile,
- [Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series–Welcome and Part 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/08/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-welcome-and-part-1/) - Welcome to the kick-off of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I'll have a twenty-minute updated episode of the story a few times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional
- [Everest 2024: Snag in the Icefall Route](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/05/everest-2024-snag-in-the-icefall-route/) - It was not unexpected, but the Icefall Doctors hit a snag when fixing the route. They struggled to find safe passage through the upper Icefall for several days. They had expected to reach Camp 1 about now and Camp 2 next week, but it obviously will take longer. Meanwhile, teams are preparing to return to
- [Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 1: Season Underway, Lost Legends](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/31/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-1-season-underway-lost-legends/) - If it's April, it must be time for Everest. The Icefall Doctors are hard at work. Climbers and trekkers are making their way through the Khumbu or driving from Lhasa. Sherpas and base camp crews are building tent platforms and preparing their spots for the teams. Yaks and mules are meandering ever higher, loaded with
- [Everest 2024: Blessings on the Trek to Tengboche Monastery](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/04/everest-2024-blessing-on-the-trek-to-tengboche-monastery/) - Traffic is picking up on the trail to Everest Base Camp, Nepal, as more teams are flying into Lukla. The weather continues to be good, and no serious issues have been reported. However, similar to recent years, some fixed-wing flights between Kathmandu and Lukla are now diverted to leave from Ramechhap, a small airstrip 140
- [Everest 2024: The Trek to EBC Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/02/everest-2024-the-trek-to-ebc-begins/) - All is good in the Khumbu, according to climbers and trekkers there. Most Everest and Nepal climbing teams start their journey at Lukla, These days, it seems that many climbing teams have taken helicopters to Lukla or Namche. Either flight method results in the start of a life-changing trek in the Khumbu, but you need
- [Everest 2024: Leaving Nothing Unsaid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/28/everest-2024-leaving-nothing-unsaid/) - Climbers worldwide are flying to Kathmandu or Lhasa to begin their dream of climbing the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest. For the climbers, this is all about the dream. For the ones left behind, they only have one dream - to hug them once again. By now, they have their gear, their training is complete,
- [Everest 2024: Climbers to Watch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/21/everest-2024-climbers-to-watch/) - As we near the end of March, climbers fly to Kathmandu and Lhasa for the Spring 8000-meter expeditions. I expect climbs on all the 8000ers in Tibet and Nepal: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu, Annapurna, and Shishapangma. If history guides, 97% of all climbers on Everest will use supplemental oxygen, and
- [Everest 2024: Who's Climbing This Year?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/14/everest-2024-whos-climbing-this-year/) - Teams are filling up with Everest aspirants from around the world. I estimate there will be around 600 foreign climbers, supported by 900 Sherpas, taking the total to 1,700 people on the Nepal side and 100 foreigners, with 100 support climbers, on the Tibet side. During the Spring 2024 Everest season, look for a whopping
- [Everest 2024 Coverage: Are Luxury Operators Being Targeted by Nepal?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/02/26/everest-2024-coverage-are-luxury-operators-being-targeted-by-nepal/) - Out of the blue, Nepal announced new policies limiting "luxuries" offered by operators at Everest Base Camp. The authorities cited environmental impact but still allowed an unlimited number of people on the mountain each season. Luxuries on Everest are nothing new and are offered by most operators, but some are more than others. The limits
- [Everest 2024: Interview with Garrett Madison on his "Aconcagua Ambush" and the Upcoming Everest Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/02/19/everest-2024-interview-with-garrett-madison-on-his-aconcagua-ambush-and-the-upcoming-everest-season/) - We are getting closer to #Everest2024, and there are some new rules Nepal is proposing. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, we meet Garrett and how he started his company. We also discuss his recent “Aconcagua Ambush,” where he and his client summited the highest peak in South America, spending only
- [Everest 2024: Welcome to Everest 2024 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/01/22/everest-2024-welcome-to-everest-2024-coverage/) - Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2024 coverage! This season will be my 24th season of all things Everest: 18th time providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times - 2002, 2003, 2008, and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. I did coverage for 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019,
- [Everest 2024 Coverage: WAG bags Finally Required on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/02/17/everest-2024-coverage-wag-bags-finally-required-on-everest/) - As we ease closer to Everest 2024, the Nepal government is taking some last-minute actions. As usual, we'll see if the authorities enforce these rules, as most operators (and clients) ignore them without consequences. There are at least two "new rules" with more forthcoming. I fully praise Nepal for taking any action to clean any
- [Everest 2024: Nepal's "GPS Chip" Plan has Major Problems](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/05/everest-2024-nepals-gps-chip-plan-has-major-problems/) - The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has announced another "new rule" for the upcoming Everest 2024 Spring season, after the horrendous 2023 season that set all-time records for deaths on Everest at 18 deaths–6 Sherpas and 12 clients. In my estimation, 11 deaths were preventable. Authorities wanting to reduce bad press made a last-minute rule saying
- [Everest 2024: Icefall Doctors Mark Season Start](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/07/everest-2024-icefall-doctors-mark-season-start/) - The Icefall Doctors are on their way to Everest Base Camp to install the fixed rope and ladders from Base Camp to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. Usually, this work is completed by the time most climbers arrive in early April. This year, they attended a one-day training session at the Khumbu Climbing Center
- [Everest 2023: An End to a Tough Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/30/everest-2023-an-end-to-a-tough-season/) - It's always tough to characterize an Everest season, so I'll give it a few more days to let everything settle before posting my season summary. But one thing is clear, 2023 is the deadliest season ever, and some routine mountaineering practices are broken. Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one
- [Everest 2023: Season Summary - Deadliest in History](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/06/02/everest-2023-season-summary-deadest-in-history/) - In this 2023 Everest season summary, I look at the good and the bad during the deadliest season ever on Everest and the much-needed changes. Plus a narrative on the last Icefall passage and co ing home #everest2023 Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never developed, thanks in part to colder weather that sent a higher number of climbers home in mid-season, many with a persistent virus. However, the deaths did, but not due to the record permits or climate change. #everest2023
- [Everest 2015: First View - New Icefall Route Pictures](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/04/06/everest-2015-first-view-new-icefall-route-pictures/) - Garrett Madison was able to scout out the new route in the Khumbu Icefall and in fact it totally new compared to 2014.
- [Everest 2015: Updates and Impressions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/04/12/everest-2015-updates-and-impressions/) - An update while trekking to Everest Base Camp for 2015 climbs of Everest and Lhotse
- [Comparing the Routes of Everest - 2024 edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/01/21/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2024-edition/) - Welcome to Everest 2024. The season begins soon, and I've already posted several Everest 2024 big-picture updates for this season: Everest 2024: Welcome to Everest 2024 Coverage - an introduction to the Everest 2024 Spring season. How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2024 Edition - My annual review of what it costs to
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2024 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/01/18/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2024-edition/) - Welcome to Everest 2024. The season begins soon and I've already posted several Everest 2024 big-picture updates for this season: Everest 2024: Welcome to Everest 2024 Coverage - an introduction to the Everest 2024 Spring season. How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2024 Edition - My annual review of what it costs to
- [Everest 2021: Everest's gatekeeper - the Khumbu Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/10/everest-2021-everests-gatekeeper-the-khumbu-icefall/) - Teams are approaching Everest Base Camp, with some already there; others expected tomorrow and early next week. They will take a few days to adjust to their new home at 17,500 feet while they will review the skills needed to climb the icefall safely. I expect a few teams to do a rotation to Camp
- [Everest 2023: First Deaths of Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/12/everest-2023-first-deaths-of-season/) - Debris from an apparent serac release off Everest's west shoulder has taken the lives of three Sherpas in the Khumbu Icefall. They were part of the rope team ferrying gear to begin fixing the route from Camp 2 to the summit. Searchers are said to have located their bodies but have not recovered them, but
- [Everest 2024 Podcast: Ryan Mitchell on how a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/12/08/everest-2024-podcast-ryan-mitchell-on-how-a-19-year-old-can-afford-to-climb-everest/) - How can a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest? Well, Ryan Mitchell, 19, living in central Massachusetts, explains how in this podcast. Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while
- [Autumn 2023 Himalayan Roundup: Death, Rescue and Cancellations](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/10/16/autumn-2023-himalayan-roundup-death-rescue-and-cancellations/) - The Autumn season moves on with climbs on Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri and the very popular Ama Dablam. However, there were more tragedies in the 8000-meter mountains, with a death on Dhaulagiri. Nepal continues to monetize its mountains, issuing 881 climbing permits across forty-two mountains, generating $450,000 in revenue. China and France represent the two largest
- [The Best Guides for an 8000-Meter Mountain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/10/13/the-best-guides-for-an-8000-meter-mountain/) - We continue to see preventable deaths on the 8000-meter mountains. In this article, I’ll explore how they can be safely climbed while minimizing but never eliminating the risk of injury or death. Selecting the best guide for you is key to success in the mountains, but picking the best one can be daunting. To be
- [Podcast with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow: Records, Rescues, Deaths and More](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/10/10/podcast-with-adrian-ballinger-alpenglow-records-rescues-deaths-and-more/) - The past few months have been difficult in the mountaineering world. We have seen climbs on many 800ers that turned out tragically: Mohammed Hassan on K2, Anna Gutu, Migmar Sherpa, American Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa on Shishapangma. A few dramatic rescues and a never-ending quest for records. I turned to long-time alpinist Adrian
- [Autumn 2023 Himalayan Season: Deaths on Shishapangma](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/10/07/autumn-2023-himalayan-season-deaths-on-shishapangma/) - After what was a safe and busy season with scores of heavily supported clients summiting Manaslu, the odds caught up with climbers on Shishapangma, the only 8000er fully in Tibet. American Anna Gutu with Migmar Sherpa are confirmed dead. Reported missing are American, Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa. Lama was Kristin Harila's partner
- [Autumn 2023 Himalayan Season: Manaslu plus Tibet Reopens](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/09/19/autumn-2023-himalayan-season-manaslu-plus-tibet-reopens/) - The 2023 autumn climbing season is underway, with most of the attention on Nepal's Manaslu, oft acknowledged as one of the more "attainable" 8000ers. But there are climbers on other 8000ers like Dhaulagiri and Makalu. China reopened Tibet for climbing on Shishapangma and Cho Oyu. The rope fixers and one commercial team reached Manaslu's true
- [Podcast with Jost Kobusch's Winter 2023/24 Everest West Ridge Attempt](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/09/14/podcast-with-jost-kobuschs-winter-2023-24-everest-west-ridge-attempt/) - I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France, to discuss his upcoming 2023/24 winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. No climber has reached the summit using this route and precise style. He will begin climbing on December 22, 2023, the beginning of the astronomical calendar winter.
- [Podcast Interview with Kristin Harila](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/09/07/podcast-interview-with-kristin-harila/) - Norwegian Kristin Harila, 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa summited all fourteen 8000ers in three months and 1 day (92 days.) The first was Shishapangma on April 26, 2023, and the last K2 on July 27, 2023. In 2022, Harila summited twelve of the fourteen, but China refused them entry into Tibet to attempt Shishapangma and Cho
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Harila and Tenjen Cleared on Muhammad Hassan's Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/09/06/k2-2023-coverage-harila-and-tenjen-cleared-on-muhammad-hassans-death/) - The Pakistani government has issued an exhaustive report on the July 27, 2023, death of Pakistani High Altitude Porter, Mr. Muhammad Hassan. While no one team or individual was found culpable, it exposed deep issues across the mountaineering industry that must be fixed. It is sad and interesting reading that didn’t find any one person
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Sherpas Dominate K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/08/01/k2-2023-coverage-sherpas-dominate-k2/) - The K2 season appears to be over, with an estimated 112+ summits by at least six teams. Multiple teams turned back on their summit push due to unstable conditions. Each of Pakistan's five 8000ers saw summits this summer in what could be called a "difficult weather" season. On K2, it felt like there was only
- [K2 2023 Coverage: 1 death, Many Turned Back, Many Summited](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/27/k2-2023-coverage-1-death-many-turned-back-many-summited/) - This is a developing story. It was a difficult night and day on July 27, 2023, on K2. There is at least one reported death. Several teams pushed through, while others felt it was a death trap to summit, and some turned back. A few will try again as the inventory of aspirants clears out.
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Kristin Harila & Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa get K2 for their Last 8000er](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/27/k2-2023-coverage-kristin-harila-gets-k2-for-her-last-8000er/) - This is a developing story. Now Confirmed: Kristin Harila, 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa and the team's tracker shows them at the summit. She has summited all fourteen 8000ers, along with Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa, in three months and 1 day (92 days.) They are part of an international commercial team from Seven Summits treks. The summiteers
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Summit Push is On! Harila on Her Last 8000er Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/26/k2-2023-coverage-summit-push-is-on-harila-at-c3/) - This is a developing story. Reports from K2 have the rope fixing team at traverse on the bottleneck. The weather has calmed after a few days of heavy snow. The rope team left at 6:00 pm local time, and most of the others will leave around midnight. Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering reported his team
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Poor Weather Stalls K2 Summit Plans](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/24/k2-2023-coverage-poor-weather-stalls-k2-summit-plans/) - Not surprisingly, the weather has moved in, bringing white-out conditions to K2. The rope fixing team was supposed to summit today, Monday, July 24, but we haven't received any updates. Look for a few days' delay at this point beyond July 25-27, when most teams were targeting their summits. Kristin Harila, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa and
- [K2 2023 Coverage: K2 Summit Push Begins, Kristin Harila gets #13](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/22/k2-2023-coverage-k2-summit-push-begins-more-summits-on-others/) - UPDATE: Kristin Harila and Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa got their thirteenth 800er with Broad Peak today, July 23, 2023. Only K2 remains to complete their project. From Seven Summits Treks: Congratulations to Kristin and Lama for successfully summiting Broad Peak. This is the 13th mountain they climb together in Kristin's 2023 project. Kristin is grateful for
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Harila and Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa get 12th, More Summits on BP and GI](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/17/k2-2023-coverage-harila-gets-her-12th-more-summits-on-bp-and-gii/) - The peak bagging continues with summits on Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Kristin Harila and Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa got their twelfth summit leaving Broad and K2 to nab all fourteen in three months. Teams have continued their acclimatization rotations on K2. Peaks that used to be the domain of highly skilled, often sponsored professional
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Weekend Summits on BP and GII](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/15/k2-2023-coverage-weekend-summits-on-bp-and-gii/) - It was a good weekend on Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak, with multiple summits. Teams have continued their acclimatization rotations on K2, but some of the Nanga Parbat climbers will skip any rotations and go directly on their summit push. Kristin Harla did this on GII. K2 - Rotations Teams are acclimatizing with ropes to
- [K2 2023 Coverage: Climbing Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/14/k2-2023-coverage-climbing-begins/) - Climbing on K2 has finally begun for the estimated 250 people there. They've been stalled by weeks of poor weather. Similarly, activity is picking up on Pakistan's three other 8000-meter peaks with the season over on Nanga. Most K2 summits occur at the end of July, so while the delay is annoying for the teams,
- [K2 2023 Karakorum Update: More Nanga Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/02/k2-2023-karakorum-update-more-nanga-summits/) - Summits continue on Nanga Parbat as teams arrive at K2 Base Camp. What used to be considered a massive technical challenge is now routine, with the Nepal guides using Everest techniques to fix rope, break trails, and establish camps. Still a challenging climb, but today is rarely comparable to what climbers did a decade ago.
- [K2 2023 Summer Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/06/26/k2-2023-summer-coverage/) - The summer climbing season is fully underway, with summits on Nanga Parbat. Nepali operators are overpowering the peaks with a massive number of Sherpa support to fix ropes and break trail. Seven Summits Treks reported a massive team of twenty people, ten clients with ten Sherpas. Norwegian Kristin Harila and Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa nabbed their
- [Nepal Increases Fees to Climb Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/08/13/nepal_increases_everest_fee/) - The long-rumored Everest permit fee increase will now happen for the 2025 season. The permit fee for a foreigner will increase from USD $ 11,000 to $15,000. For a Nepali citizen, it will be $568. The increase is still in the proposal phase but appears to be pre-approved. As always, wait to see as Nepal
- [Will Nepal open for Climbing in Autumn?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/07/06/will-nepal-open-for-climbing-in-autumn/) - The hold that COVID19 has on mountaineering is easing with some guides selling trips, but it's time for extra due diligence. I ask Nepal officials and guides for advice.
- [K2 Summer 2022: Chasing Records](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/08/02/k2-summer-2022-chasing-records/) - Summits continue but mainly for the record seekers. The mainstream press has picked up on the K2 crowds. It's Everest all over again, with reports of crowds, inexperienced clients, excessive support, and oxygen. Only a few stories of the deep satisfaction that comes with true accomplishments. Let the hand-wringing begin! Big Picture Without a doubt,
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: No 8000er 6-Month Record this Season, Ama Dablam continues](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/10/28/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-no-8000er-6-month-record-this-season-ama-dablam-continues/) - The Chinese refused to make an exception for Norwegian Kristin Harila to attempt Cho Oyu and Shishapangma from Tibet, thus ending her current attempt to get all fourteen 8000ers in the shortest time. Meanwhile, Ama Dablam continues to see summit after summit with a record number of permits this Autumn. China Play Favorites China closed
- [K2 2023 Coverage: And the Summits Keep Going on BP, GI and GII](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/19/k2-2023-coverage-and-the-summits-keep-going-on-bp-gi-and-gii/) - Record summits are happening all over Pakistan this summer, including Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Pakistan has joined Nepal in monetizing their 8000ers with record permits issued this season. Climbing Permits Explode Pakistan reportedly issued a record number of climbing permits this year, even after a record 1,937 visitors to the Northern Territories last
- [K2 2023 Karakorum: Nanga Parbat Climber Safe at Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/06/k2-2023-karakorum-nanga-parbat-climber-safe-at-base-camp/) - Good news from Nanga Parbat with reports that Pakistani climber Asif Bhatti who became snowblind and was stranded at 7300m at Camp 4, is now back to base camp. Karrar Haidri, Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan issued this statement: Asif Bhatti arrived at Base Camp safely. He will be taken to Skardu by an army
- [K2 2023 Karakorum: Nanga Parbat Death and Missing Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/04/k2-2023-karakorum-nanga-parbat-death-and-missing-summits/) - One climber died on July 3rd, and another needed rescue on Nanga Parbat. Polish media, wspinanie.pl reported that Paweł Kopeć died from Acute Mountain Sickness near Camp 4 at 7300 meters. He had summited with teammates Piotr Krzyżowski, and Waldemar Kowalewski. Reports from other climbers that day were of poor weather, even rain and high
- [Podcast with Author, Journalist Billi Bierling of the Himalayan Database](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/06/21/podcast-with-author-journalist-billi-bierling-of-the-himalayan-database/) - Close followers of mountaineering know the Himalayan Database and Ms. Elizabeth Hawley. Who you may not know is Billi Bierling who worked with Ms. Hawley since 2004 and continues her work today along with a small team in Kathmandu and the US. Billi, born in the Bavarian Alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, is a well-traveled journalist
- [Everest 2023: An Insider Story](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/06/08/everest-2023-an-insider-story/) - The 2023 Everest spring season is over, and most of the climbers are back home with their families. They're providing an intimate look at their experiences, sharing tears, laughs and holding hands as their loved one reveals their true story. Often the stories are difficult, as no one likes to see their partner in pain.
- [Everest 2023: Yet Another Death, Missing Not Found - Update Szilard Found](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/25/everest-2023-yet-another-death-missing-not-found/) - Update: Hungarian climber, Szilard Suhajda, has been found near the Hillary Step with signs of HAPE and frostbite. His wife posted: This morning, May 25, the home team learned that Szilard was at approximately 8,780 meters, at the bottom of the Hillary Step. A team found him and said that he could be clearly identified
- [Everest 2023: Last Few Summits and Another Missing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/24/everest-2023-last-few-summits-and-another-missing/) - As the Everest spring season nears the end, we see more Everest summits and peak bagging. With at least fifty more summits on Wednesday, May 24, the season is approaching 600 total summits by members and Sherpas, with the majority being Sherpas. Another climber, this one not using supplemental oxygen, is now considered missing. Two
- [Everest 2023: Final Summits? and Another death, now 11](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/23/everest-2023-final-summits-and-another-death-now/) - As the Everest spring season nears the end, we see more Everest summits and peak bagging. With fifty more summits on Tuesday, May 23, the season is approaching 550 total summits by members and Sherpas. More theft was reported at the South Col. Adventure Consultants put their team of four clients with seven Sherpas on
- [Everest 2023: Summits "Records"](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/22/everest-2023-summits-records/) - Monday, May 22nd, was a windy but good day for summits and records. An estimated fifty more people summited, advancing the season total to close to 500. The season could end this week as winds will become too dangerous. Scott Lehmann & Shayna Unger, self-described "Deaf Mountaineers & Explorers," became what they believe to be
- [Everest 2023: Weekend Update May 21: Now 11 Deaths, Several Missing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/21/everest-2023-weekend-update-may-21-now-11-deaths-several-missing/) - The death toll climbed to ten, perhaps eleven, for the spring 2023 season, with multiple climbers missing. Wednesday, May 24th, may be the last summit day this season. On Sunday, May 21, Australian Jason Bernard Kennison, 40, climbing with Asian Trekking, died near the Balcony on his ascent. The Himalayan Times reported that Dawa Steven
- [Everest 2023: High Winds Stall Most Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/20/everest-2023-high-winds-stall-most-summits/) - While summits dwindle as the winds move in for a few days, the dead and missing totals continue to skyrocket. 2023 has the ninth most Everest death total. The season may end next week. As previously reported, yesterday, Malaysian Ag Askandar Bin Ampuan Yaacub died near the South Summit. Today another Malaysian climber, Muhammad Hawari
- [Everest 2023: Another Everest Death, More Summits and Frostbite](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/19/everest-2023-another-everest-death-more-summits-and-frostbite/) - Another death on Everest brings the climbing death toll to eight, nine if you count the person who died in Lukla but intended to climb. Close to another 100 summited Friday, May 19th taking the total close to 300, with hundreds more to go as the weather window begins to close. Malaysian Ag Askandar Bin
- [Everest 2023: More Everest Summits, Seventh Death, Soria Rescued](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/18/everest-2023-more-everest-summits-soria-rescued/) - Another death on Everest brings the climbing death toll to seven. A collapse in the Icefall has stalled climbers going up and down until the Icefall Docs can fix the route. More than thirty-four summited on Thursday, May 18th, bringing the season total to over 200. As I reported yesterday, a problem in the Icefall,
- [Everest 2023: Icefall Problems Delay Climbers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/17/everest-2023-icefall-problems-delay-climbers/) - Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering is reporting that problems halfway up the Icefall are delaying climbers from going up from EBC and coming down from their summit pushes. After an alpine start to their day, the team is back in Everest Base Camp (EBC) due to a collapse in the icefall. Our team is all
- [Everest 2017: Weekend Update May 7](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/07/everest-2017-weekend-update-may-7/) - Busy #Everest2017. Calming winds might allow summit ropes this week. Climbers recovering from acclimatization runs. Another death, cheater caught.
- [Everest 2023: 100 More Summits, Sixth Everest Death and Carlos Soria, 84, Rescue Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/17/everest-2023-100-more-summits-sixth-everest-death-and-carlos-soria-84-rescue-underway/) - With masses of climbers on Everest, today we saw over 100 more summits bringing the season total to over 166 and the sixth death of the season. There were many "records" set as well, some in the beholder's eye. Several hundred remain to attempt the summit. Moldovan climber Victor Brinza died at the South Col
- [Everest 2023: One Death, Rescue and Everest Summits Continue](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/16/everest-2023-one-death-rescue-and-everest-summits-continue/) - A Sherpa has reportedly died, and not a lot of details, and a Nepali Army Capitan needed rescue after summiting, and at least thirty-five more people summit bringing the season total to over sixty-six. The Himalayan Times report the death of Phurba Sherpa near Yellow Band above Camp III. He was part of the Nepal
- [Everest 2023: More Everest Summits, and Lhotse](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/15/everest-2023-more-everest-summits-and-lhotse/) - As the saying goes, if you must predict the future, do it early and often. Even some of the best weather forecasters may have missed this high-wind episode that stalled most climbing on Monday. But don't blame them too much as pockets of winds can develop unexpectedly and suddenly. However, four members of the Nepali
- [Everest 2023: First of Many Commercial Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/14/everest-2023-first-of-many-commercial-summits/) - It looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many
- [Everest 2023: Summit Pushes Begin with Thieves on the Mountain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/13/everest-2023-summit-pushes-begin-with-thieves-on-the-mountain/) - With the ropes now fixed to the summit, hundreds of people left Everest Base Camp over the past several days for their summit push. The winds appear to be under the 30 mph threshold through May 20, hopefully allowing climbers to spread out and avoid the massive queues of 2019. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday,
- [Everest 2023: Managing the Crowds this Weekend of Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/11/everest-2023-managing-the-crowds-this-weekend-of-summits/) - As forecasted, the winds have let up, allowing the rope team to continue fixing it to the summit. This will open the mountain for scores for clients with one or more Sherpas in support. Look for a busy first wave of summits over the next few days. Big Picture The question is, how many people
- [Everest 2023: On Weather Hold](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/09/everest-2023-on-weather-hold/) - "All dressed up and nowhere to go" may be the best current summary of Everest. High winds from Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters and above is the culprit. However, there were rare summits on Nuptse and a good effort on Nuptse. Last Week Despite the high winds, teams continued to do acclimatization
- [Everest 2023: Cho Oyu Summits and Everest Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/03/everest-2023-cho-oyu-summits-and-everest-weather/) - Peak bagging season continues with summits on Tibet's 8000ers. Look for some of the Annapurna summiteers to bag Makalu or Dhaulagiri, then combo Everest and Lhotse. The weather is the wildcard this year if we see long lines like in 2019. Big Picture Teams are now scattered all over the Big Hill, working on their
- [Everest 2023: American Dies at Camp 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/01/everest-2023-american-dies-at-camp-2/) - An American, Jonathan Sugarman, 69, died at Camp 2 on Everest on Tuesday, May 1, 2023. He was climbing with International Mountain Guides. The retired MD from the Seattle area trained diligently for the expedition and was feeling well. Last year, he summited Lobuche and Island Peak and reached Camp 3, his goal, on Everest.
- [Everest 2023: Interview with Garrett Madison from Everest Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/05/02/everest-2023-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-everest-base-camp/) - The #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste
- [Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 30](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/30/everest-2023-weekend-update-april-30/) - Everest teams are doing the usual acclimatization rotations but are seeing heavy attrition that will ease crowding concerns. There's a new level of base camp luxuries that might be beyond the pale for some purists. Heavy snow is forecasted on Dhaulagiri, stalling movement there. Overall, it's been a low-drama year, thankfully. Last Week Last week,
- [Everest 2023: Record Permits, Acclimatizations Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/25/everest-2023-record-permits-acclimatizations-underway/) - It's mid-season, and there is a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 1, depending on the weather. Let's look at acclimatization as teams maneuver to prepare their bodies for the summit push in a few weeks. Big Picture
- [Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 23](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/23/everest-2023-weekend-update-april-23/) - While teams are as high as Camp 2 on Everest, most of the attention was on Annapurna, where one climber died, and two other climbers were miraculously rescued. Heavy snow hit Everest, but climbing continued. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits topped 400, a record for the Nepal side. The fixed rope was
- [Everest 2023: Miracle Rescues on Annapurna](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/20/everest-2023-miracle-rescues-on-annapurna/) - In what can only be described as a miracle, Anurag Maloo, 34, was found barely alive deep in a crevasse. He disappeared three days earlier. Polish climbers Adam Bielecki, and Mariusz Hatala descended into the crevasse and found him. He was flown to Pokhara and then to Kathmandu and is in critical condition. Bielecki was
- [Everest 2023: Deaths and Rescues on Annapurna](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/18/everest-2023-deaths-and-rescues-on-annapurna/) - On the tenth highest mountain, Annapurna, 26,545 feet, at least one person has died, another is missing and over five needed to be rescued at 24,000 feet. Poor weather was part of the problem, and high winds and heavy snow are in the forecast for this weekend. Noel Hanna, 56, died in his tent at
- [Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 16](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/16/everest-2023-weekend-update-april-16/) - This was a week of highs and lows across the Himalayas. On Everest, three Sherpas lost their lives in the Icefall. The season's first 8000 meters summits occurred on Saturday, April 16, on Annapurna. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits top 300. Last Week Tragic Deaths Tragedy struck on Wednesday, April 12, 2023,
- [Everest 2023: Himalayan Update and "Records"](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/11/everest-2023-himalayan-update-and-records/) - A few teams have reached Everest Base Camp, but most are still trekking or acclimatizing on Trekking Peaks like Lobuche, Mera or Island Peak. Camps are being established in the Western Cwm. Traditionally, EBC starts to fill up around April 15. Look for the first 8000 meters summit of the season in a few days.
- [Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 8](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/07/everest-2023-weekend-update-april-8/) - As we end the first week of April 2023, teams continue their treks to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Meanwhile, bad weather has brought climbing to a halt on Annapurna. Reports of heavy snow may make the 2023 spring season more challenging than we've seen in years. But the good news is the fixed ropes are
- [Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/04/02/everest-2023-weekend-update-april-2/) - The Everest spring season is starting slowly, at least on the Nepal side of the Hill. The Tibet side remains closed to foreigners. Multiple teams are trekking to Everest Base Camp - Nepal, aka EBC. Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories for the past week. Big Picture
- [Everest 2023: First Steps in the Khumbu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/30/everest-2023-first-steps-in-the-khumbu/) - As we approach April, activity is picking up in Nepal. Team after team has left Kathmandu, taking helicopters or fixed-wing aircraft to Namche or Lukla. There they will begin the trek to Everest Base Camp, Island Peak, or just the Khumbu. It's a special time. As I've said since 1997 if you ever get a
- [Everest 2023: Interview with Lukas Furtenbach - The Evolution of Oxygen Delivery Systems on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/28/everest-2023-interview-with-lukas-furtenbach-the-evolution-of-oxygen-delivery-systems-on-everest/) - Lukas Furtenbach, a major mountaineering expedition guide company and is now a top supplier of supplemental oxygen systems to all teams climbing Everest. He partnered with Neil Greenwood of Summit Oxygen to create Everest Oxygen focusing on supplying supplemental oxygen to the mountaineering industry. His Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures offer global climbs, including most of the
- [Everest 2023: Leaving Nothing Unsaid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/25/everest-2023-leaving-nothing-unsaid/) - This has become an annual post for me as I believe mountain climbing can be a spiritual experience if one is open to it, and it can be difficult for those left back home. So with that, here it goes, updated for 2023. Leaving home to climb Mt. Everest is no simple task. It's not
- [Everest 2023: Himalayan Update-Climbing Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/22/everest-2023-himalayan-update-climbing-underway/) - The #Everest2023 season is starting to take shape, with guides establishing their base camp and the Icefall Doctors working in the Icefall. China reopened, but it's too late for Everest this spring. Big Picture Teams are flying to or have already arrived in Kathmandu for this spring season of climbing in Nepal. Of course, the
- [Everest 2023: Interview with Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, Deaf Climbers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/21/everest-2023-interview-with-scott-lehmann-and-shayna-unger-deaf-climbers/) - Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, are aiming to be the first American deaf couple and, to their knowledge, the second and third deaf climbers to summit Mount Everest. Also, they are trying to become the first deaf couple to compete the Seven Summits. Both were born, as they say, profoundly deaf, meaning they had no
- [PODCAST: with Jost Kobusch's Solo, Winter 2023 Denali Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/16/podcast-with-jost-kobuschs-solo-winter-2023-denali-summit/) - German Alpinist Jost Kobusch became only the third person to complete a solo winter Denali Summit successfully. He summited on Sunday, February 19, 2023, around 3:00 am. I caught up with him at his home in Chamonix, France, only a few weeks after his summit. Jost style is to climb alone during a season that few
- [Everest 2023: Icefall Doctors leave for EBC, More Silly Rules](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/03/10/everest-2023-icefall-doctors-leave-for-ebc-more-silly-rules/) - The #Everest2023 season is starting to take shape, with guides establishing their base camp, and the Icefall Doctors are on their way to EBC. And a bit late, but once again, Nepal issues another silly rule for trekkers and climbers. Big Picture China will keep Everest closed to foreign climbers for the fourth year in
- [Podcast with Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry: Running from Makalu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/02/28/podcast-with-rebecca-becks-ferry-running-from-makalu/) - Becks Ferry is back in the Nepal Himalaya mountains 2023 for Makalu, but with a twist - she will climb the fifth highest peak at 27,825 feet/8481 meters without supplemental oxygen and then run the 225 miles back to Kathmandu! In 2021, along with British Professional Mountain Guide Jon Gupta, they climbed on six peaks
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2023 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/02/02/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2023-edition/) - 2023 will be my 20th season of all things Everest: 15 times providing coverage, another four seasons of actually climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, and 2022 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series available as an e-Book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three
- [Podcast: Everest 2023: Welcome to the Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/02/25/podcast-everest-2023-welcome-to-the-season/) - Welcome to the first Podcast for the Everest 2023 season. In this podcast, I talk about what we can expect this year, now with the Tibet side closed again. I expect 2023 to be a big year for Everest-Nepal. With the COVID-19 pandemic letting up, Nepal is open. It expects many foreigners attracted by Nepali
- [Everest 2022: Team Locations and Headlines](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/28/everest-2022-team-locations-and-headlines/) - LATEST HEADLINE May 28, 2022 2022 SEASON OVER Welcome to the 2022 edition of Alan Arnette's annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It's based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit,
- [Opinion: An Open Letter to Mountaineering Policy Decision Makers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/23/opinion-an-open-letter-to-mountaineering-policy-decision-makers/) - An open letter to Mountaineering Policy Decision Makers, With the explosion of people climbing mountains, urgent issues have moved to critical. It's time to take action. Please let me briefly introduce myself. I'm Alan Arnette living in the US. I've been on 38 significant expeditions since 1987 in Africa, Argentina, Australia, Antarctica, Bolivia, Chili, China,
- [Winter Himalayan Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/01/07/winter-himalayan-update/) - Climbing in winter is always difficult, and this season is no different. Lost gear stopped the Cho effort; sickness took out another Manaslu climber and a brave effort on Dhaulagiri. Manaslu Summit Manaslu saw a winter summit, and it was on the true summit. Alex Txikon, along with Tenjen Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa,
- [2022 in Review: The Year Climbing Changed](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/12/21/2022-in-review-the-year-climbing-changed/) - "It was the best of times and the worst of times." With all respect to Mr. Charles Dickens, I'm talking about the 2022 climbing year, not the French Revolution in 1775. Oh my, what a year. Hundreds of new people tried out the sport, while old hands showed up after a couple of down years.
- [Climbing Roundup](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/12/15/climbing-roundup/) - As we near the end of 2022, high-altitude climbing continues. We have activities in South America, Nepal, and Antarctica. The final summit numbers are in from the Himalayan Database for Everest. It was a record year for the number of Sherpas supporting clients. 2022 Everest Stats: 683 Summits, 3 Deaths The Himalayan Database updated its
- [Opinion: The Changing World of Climbing News](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/11/14/opinion-the-changing-world-of-climbing-news/) - Does anyone care that Jane and John Smithe became the first couple from rural Northland to summit Mount Impossible? The comments posted on my blog show a declining interest in today's climbing world and the highest level of disdain I've seen in covering the climbing world since 1999. And it appears that even the general media world
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/10/19/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-ama-dablam-cho-oyu-and-death/) - Climbing in the Himalaya continues to set records. Sadly another death. Some previous records are being questioned while others continue their pursuits. The popular 6000 meter Nepal peak, Ama Dablam, 22,349 feet is currently swamped with climbers and their support, some estimates are over 800 will be the final total. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Another Manaslu Avalanche, One Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/10/02/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-another-manaslu-avalanche-one-death/) - Only days after a deadly avalanche between Camps 3 and 4 on Manaslu, this Sunday morning, October 2, 2022, Manaslu Base Camp was hit by a new release destroying six camps and 30 tents but taking no lives. However, one Sherpa, Dawa Chhiring died in a different avalanche while descending from Camp 2 to Camp 1.
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Avalanche - Bodies Found](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/28/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-manaslu-avalanche-bodies-found/) - It's a grim time on Manaslu with bodies being found related and unrelated to the avalanche earlier this week. Some teams have wisely ended their expeditions while others press on. Time will tell if there will be another release given the ongoing snows. Manaslu has experienced heavy snowfall this season. One of the Sherpas managing
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Avalanche - Injuries and One Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/26/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-manaslu-avalanche-injuries-and-one-death/) - A major avalanche similar to 2012 occurred high on Manalsu, between Camp 3 and 4, while several teams were climbing higher to be in position for summit bids around September 27 and 28. It appears that Sherpas ferrying loads to Camp 4 took the worst of the avalanche. Poor weather is hampering rescue efforts. Let
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Summits!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/22/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-manaslu-summits/) - While most teams were waiting in base camp for the recent snowfall to settle, a few pushed on, breaking trail and either pulling the fixed ropes out or putting in new ones to reach the true summit of Manaslu. There is no word on the route that was used, but Kristin Harila, Pasdawa Sherpa, Dawa
- [Podcast: Manaslu 2022 and Taking Care of our Mountains](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/22/podcast-manaslu-2022-and-taking-care-of-our-mountains/) - The Manaslu 2022 season is moving nicely, with the first client summits for the season on Thursday, September 22, 2022. There are a record number of people there, with 400 foreigners with permits and an equal or greater r number of support climbers, so it's crowded. This means there is an opportunity for more trash,
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Avalanche Danger Stalls Summit Bids](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/21/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-avalanche-danger-stalls-summit-bids/) - The recent heavy snow has stalled summit bids on Manaslu. Around 30 cm, ~1 foot of fresh snow is reported between C3 and C4. Phunuru Sherpa with International Mountain Guides reported that 120 people turned back due to avalanche conditions today, September 21, 2022. They are back in Base Camp now. Also, several cases of COVID
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Summit Bids Nearing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/20/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-summit-bids-nearing/) - Progress continues on Manalsu, with many teams having reached Camp 2 at 21,000 feet and some to Camp 3 around 22,300 feet during their acclimatization rotation. Up to three feet of fresh snow recently fell on the upper mountain. Summit bids are expected to begin on Thursday, September 22. The Nepal government has issued 404
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Mass on Manaslu - Rope to True Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/15/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-mass-on-manaslu-rope-to-true-summit/) - The fixed ropes are now to the true summit of Manaslu. As expected, Manaslu is overrun with clients and a greater number of support climbers. Thus far, the Nepal government has issued 394 permits to foreigners, so considering a 1:1.5 support ratio, that puts close to 600 people on the peak, with more to come.
- [Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu and More!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/09/08/autumn-2022-himalayan-season-manaslu-and-more-2/) - The autumn climbing season is underway, with most of the attention on Nepal's Manaslu, oft acknowledged as one of the more "attainable" 8000ers. However, many things changed last year when one team showed an alternate route to the true summit, thus turning scores of climber's previous claims on their heels, including my own. With an
- [Wrong, Wrong, Wrong. Defacing Ama Dablam](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/11/14/wrong-wrong-wrong-defacing-ama-dablam/) - Two huge banners designed to look like a flag were hung from Ama Dablam's summit this week. Just because it can be done, doesn't mean it should.
- [Going for 8000er Record: Kristin Harila all 14 in Six Months](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/08/23/going-for-8000er-record-kristin-harila-all-14-in-six-months/) - A new trend in 8000-meter climbing is how many you can get in one trip and how fast. Norweigan Kristin Harila is on track to smash long-time records this year. Thus far, she has eleven of the fourteen, all with climbing Sherpas, Pasdawa Sherpa, and Dawa Ongju Sherpa, of 8K Expeditions. I had the opportunity
- [K2 2022: No O's, Unsupported Summits on Broad Peak and K2 -  Interview with Andreas Frydensberg and Eric Gilbertson](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/08/12/k2-2022-no-os-unsupported-summits-on-broad-peak-and-k2-interview-with-andreas-frydensberg-and-eric-gilbertson/) - K2 had a record year this 2022 summer. Most of the summits were by Sherpas or Pakistani climbers helping their paying clients, but a handful were the rare type: no supplemental oxygen, no Sherpa support, and no commercial team. Danish climber Andreas Ritzau Frydensberg with American Eric Gilbertson summited Broad Peak on July 18th and
- [K2 Summer 2022: Behind the Scenes Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/08/10/k2-summer-2022-behind-the-scenes-report/) - K2 climbers are back home, and some are writing detailed reports on their experience. One that caught my eye was from American Eric Gilbertson as he described his no O's, unsupported summits on K2 and Broad Peak with Danish climber Andreas Ritzau Frydensberg. Meanwhile, there have been a few more summits in the Karakorum, but
- [K2 Summer 2022: A Great Year for Women Climbers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/08/05/k2-summer-2022-a-great-year-for-women-climbers/) - The summer 2022 season was fantastic for female climbers. Records were set individually plus the total number who made it to the top, 26. Courtesy of Karrar Haidri, Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan, for this year's list 1- Miss Antonina Samoilova Ukraine 2- Miss April A Leonardo USA 3- Miss Anne Faerovig Norvay 4- Asma
- [K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 30, 2022 - A Summer of Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/30/k2-summer-2022-a-summer-of-summits/) - And the summits keep going with many firsts, records, and races to the top thanks to this summer's, and for that fact, this spring's, unusually stable weather across the Himalayas. It's not uncommon for climbers to have three, four, or even five, or more 8000er summits this year. Let's run a few down with more
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 15 - Summits, Summits, Summits in Great Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/15/everest-2022-weekend-update-may-15-summits-summits-summits-in-great-weather/) - We saw hundreds of people summit Mt. Everest with almost unprecedented weather this past week. And from all indications, summits will continue into next week, albeit at a slower rate, with the exception of Tuesday, May 17th, when the winds will spike over 30 mph/50kph. However, at this rate, this season could be over soon.
- [K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 3: Karakorum Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/03/k2-summer-2022-weekend-update-july-3-karakorum-summits/) - Several strong Sherpas from various Nepali operators fixed the ropes on Nanga Parbat over the past few days thus facilitating a handful of clients to reach the summit. In total, there were 18 summits consisting of six members supported by 12 Sherpas, a 1:2 ratio of support. Pakistan issued 100 (member with support) permits this
- [K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 10: Deaths, Rescues and Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/10/k2-summer-2022-weekend-update-july-10-deaths-rescues-and-summits/) - It's been a dramatic week in the Pakistani mountains. We saw summits on a couple of 8000ers, climbers in trouble, and tragically two deaths. The weather is currently keeping the K2 teams at base camp but look for a rush starting later this next week—all in all, a normal season thus far, despite the record
- [K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 16: K2 Summer 2022: Summit Push Drama](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/16/k2-summer-2022-summit-push-drama/) - This has been a 'lay-low' week with storms hitting the higher elevations of Pakistan's 8000ers. Yet, there were thwarted attempts. Many teams are finalizing preparations for their summit pushes beginning soon in what could be very short weather windows, but the predicted conflict with so many people has begun. Big Picture - The Summit Rush
- [K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 24, 2022 - Summiting Like Never Before](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/24/k2-summer-2022-summiting-like-never-before/) - Well, the K2 climbers pulled it off. Congratulations to the 150++ who summited and especially to the Sherpas who fixed the lines to the summit. The weather cooperated, and there were limited problems, albeit with one death and one K2 climber is currently missing. We are approaching 200 K2 summits. Big Picture Summits Continue, Missing
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Rare Everest Attempts](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/03/autumn-2019-himalayan-rare-everest-attempts/) - A few interesting stories developing for Everest this autumn: speed climb, non-stop ski from the top and Mountain Hardware revival. Also, Carlos is back for 10th try on Dhaulagiri
- [K2 Summer 2022: Summits Continue on Broad Peak and K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/28/k2-summer-2022-summits-continue-on-broad-peak-and-k2/) - With decent weather, climbers continue to summit K2, GII, and Broad Peak; some are Sherpa races while others are nice old-school with no Os and no support. Some of the early summiteers talk about the problems of so many people on K2. Big Picture There continues to be an analysis of this year's K2 traffic
- [K2 Summer 2022: Deaths on Broad Peak and K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/26/k2-summer-2022-deaths-on-broad-peak-and-k2/) - After what had been a relatively safe season in this summer's Karakorum region, we see more deaths on K2 and Broad Peak. CTV News Channel out of Montreal, Canada, reports that Canadian Richard Cartier, 60, and Australian Matt Eakin of Australia died on K2. They were part of a small team using Adventure Pakistan Treks and
- [Video Interview Adventure Consultants Guy Cotter](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/23/video-interview-adventure-consultants-guy-cotter/) - If you follow mountaineering, Adventure Consultants is one of the names that evoke almost three decades of memories. Guy Cotter, who began running the company in the mid-1990s, has deftly led his team through years of climbs worldwide. But in 2020, COVID was too much, and Guy made the difficult decision to put AC into
- [K2 Summer 2022: K2 Summit Sonic Boom!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/22/k2-summer-2022-k2-summit-sonic-boom/) - The K2 season summit record was smashed with at least 145 summits over the past day, with more to come. What else was smacked was the level of support, an astonishing 88 Sherpa or Pakastani support for 54 clients or a 1:1.6 ratio. The Everest model is now official on K2. Big Picture - The
- [K2 Summer 2022: K2 Summits and One Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/21/k2-summer-2022-k2-summits-and-one-death/) - The rope team reached K2's summit opening the door for the first team summit from Madison Mountaineering to top out supported by Mashabrum Expeditions for logistics. Over 100 others are in various high camps for their respective summit bids as of 4:00 am on Friday, July 22, 2022. Sadly there is a report of a death near
- [K2 Summer 2022: K2 Climbers on Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/18/k2-summer-2022-k2-climbers-on-summit-push/) - First, we had a surprise summit on Broad Peak today. Over on GII and K2, multiple teams have left base camp, targeting to summit in a few days. Overall, the weather forecast has improved, with the occasional wind spike in the forecast. Big Picture - The Summit Push Teams are touting excellent cooperation at K2. Seven
- [K2 Summer 2022: A Request from a K2 Widow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/13/k2-summer-2022-a-request-from-a-k2-widow/) - Mountaineering is full of triumph and tragedy. Losing a spouse on a mountain is horrific. There are doubts about how they died, if it could have been prevented, whether enough was done to save them, and the ultimate question, what to do with the body if anything. Now we have a specific request from a
- [K2 Summer 2022: Climbing Continues](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/08/k2-summer-2022-climbing-continues/) - After the drama this week, climbing will slow down a bit due to weather, but we have summits on Broad Peak and teams progressing on K2. First-hand details on the Broad Peak death are now available. Also, I break down who is climbing on K2. Big Picture - Weather Incoming First, the weather forecast looks
- [K2 Summer 2022: Two Deaths - update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/05/k2-summer-2022-two-deaths/) - Often called the 'fog of climbing,' news of deaths, rescues, and even summits come slowly and at times contradictory from the world's highest peaks. Today, July 5, in Pakistan, we hear of two deaths, two climbers missing, and mixed messages about summits while confirmations of others. Big Picture With weather moving in, teams rushed to
- [K2 Summer 2022: Nanga Climbers Safely Down](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/07/k2-summer-2022-nanga-climbers-safely-down/) - The two Pakistani climbers who were thought to be stranded apparently turned out to be tired, caught by the weather, descended on their power to Nanga Parbat Camp 1, where they were "rescued" by the Pakistani military. A video showed them smiling, laughing, in good spirits, and apparently in good health, expressing their appreciation to
- [K2 Summer 2022: Nanga Rescue Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/07/06/k2-summer-2022-nanga-rescue-update/) - The two deaths are now confirmed and identified. Meanwhile, poor weather hampers the rescue of the two stranded climbers on Nanga Parbat. Fazal Ali and Shehroze Kashif were last reported trying to descend from Camp 3 on NP, this is a dangerous section where rappelling is required. A helicopter left Skardu at 9:00 am Wednesday,
- [K2 2022 Summer Coverage: First Karakorum Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/06/30/k2-2022-summer-coverage-first-karakorum-summits/) - We have the first summits of the 2022 Summer Karakorum seasons reported to me by Pemba Sherpa with 8K Expeditions. He says Norwegian Kristin Harila supported by Sherpas Dawa Ongju Sherpa and Pasadawa Sherpa topped out on Nanga Parbat This is a continuation of their project for all three to summit all of the 8000ers in record time.
- [K2 2022 Summer Coverage: How Hard is K2?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/06/20/k2-2022-summer-coverage-how-hard-is-k2/) - With an estimated 348 people attempting K2 this summer, it begs the question if people have succumbed to marketing and clever public relations as to the difficulty of climbing this peak. I guess the question of difficulty begs the decision of which route, are you following Sherpas who broke the trail, what's your experience, and
- [K2 2022 Summer Coverage: A Record Year?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/06/16/k2-2022-summer-coverage-a-record-year/) - The 2022 Karakorum climbing season has begun! Multiple teams have arrived in Pakistan, and many are already trekking the Baltoro Glacier to their respective Base Camps. Of the fourteen 8000-meter peaks, Pakistan is home to five: K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum I & II. Without a doubt, some of these are the most
- [K2 2022 Summer Coverage: Ropes Higher in the Karakorum](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/06/27/k2-2022-summer-coverage-ropes-higher-in-the-karakorum/) - There is nice early progress on fixing the ropes throughout the Karakorum but don't get too excited as the task gets harder as they move to the higher camps. Big Picture In a carry-over from Nepal's 8000er mash-up, it appears the multi-8000ers craze has spread to Pakistan's five 8000ers. It used to be BP and
- [K2 2022 Summer Coverage: Business As Usual](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/06/24/k2-2022-summer-coverage-business-as-usual/) - Teams are steadily arriving at their respective base camps. Thus far it's business as usual with unsettled weather - hot days, followed by snow storms. The rope fixing will begin on K2 and Broad Peak in a day or so, followed quickly by the first rotations. Lukas Furtenbach with teams on K2 and Broad Peak
- [Should Everest Base Camp Be Moved?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/06/19/should-everest-base-camp-be-moved/) - The Nepal Ministry of Tourism is back to its old games of playing the mainstream press to make themselves look like credible custodians of Mount Everest. In this year's spin, they floated, not announced, but said they were considering moving the current location of Everest Base Camp, EBC, a bit lower to be off the
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Soon](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/15/winter-k2-update-summit-push-soon/) - 38 years after the first winter reconnaissance, climbers on K2 are preparing to push towards the summit with a credible chance of making history. Saturday, January 16, 2021 looks to be a good summit day as we been discussing all week. A Nepal Sherpa was hit by rockfall suffering serious injuries. Big Picture A new
- [Winter K2 Summit Update #1: Tracking the Historic Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/15/winter-k2-summit-update-1-tracking-the-historic-summit-push/) - Winter K2 Summit Overview: The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter. The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course,
- [Winter K2 Summit Update #2: Tracking the Historic Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/15/winter-k2-summit-update-2-tracking-the-historic-summit-push/) - Winter K2 Summit Overview: The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter. The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course,
- [Winter K2 Summit Update #4 of 4: Tracking the Historic Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/16/winter-k2-summit-update-3-tracking-the-historic-summit-push/) - Winter K2 Summit Overview: The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter. The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course,
- [Winter K2 Summit Update #4 of 4: Tracking the Historic Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/16/winter-k2-summit-update-4-of-4-tracking-the-historic-summit-push/) - Winter K2 Summit Overview: The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter. The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course,
- [Winter K2 Update: FIRST WINTER K2 SUMMIT!!!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/16/winter-k2-update-first-winter-k2-summit/) - CONFIRMED!! Inspired by Everest's first winter summit in 1980, a 1983 Polish expedition went to K2 in the winter for reconnaissance. They found byzantine logistics, uncooperative government authorities, and costs that exceeded the most generous budgets. Now, 38 years later, K2 has been summited in the winter. The first summits of 8000-meter peaks have been
- [Everest 2021: Should, Could, Would?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/27/everest-2021-should-could-would/) - Climbers on winter K2 are watching the weather forecasts with anticipation, hoping a break in the winds will give them their chance. Meanwhile, with the Everest 2021 Spring season only a few weeks away, there are lingering questions about whether climbers will go, and those who are, should they. Let's explore the issues. As almost
- [Winter K2 Update: Manaslu Challenges](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/29/winter-k2-update-manaslu-challenges/) - K2 climbers continue to stay at Base Camp stalled by the weather meanwhile the five or so climbers on Nepal's Manaslu found a huge open crevasse that will require route-finding skills to navigate. Some of the Nepali K2 10 will join the Manaslu effort. The search ends for Alex Goldfarb. Big Picture The big news
- [Winter K2 Update: Search Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/17/winter-k2-update-search-update/) - First, Happy Losar 2148 to my Sherpa friends. The Seven Summits Treks K2 team is back in Islamabad or already home. The 2020/21 winter K2 season has ended leaving three climbers on the mountain, and two, their bodies, transported back to Islamabad and eventually home. We have a clue as to how the two died, but
- [Winter K2 Update: Climbers All over the Mountain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/28/winter-k2-update-climbers-all-over-the-mountain/) - With a good weather window, three teams are on K2 today: Nirmal Purjaand his Sherpas, John Snorri Sigurjonsson with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid Ali and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa with two Sherpa teammates. While there are reports of high winds at C1 and C2, overall the weather looks good until January 5, 2021, so climbers will
- [Nepal to Run K2 this Winter!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/11/27/nepal-to-run-k2-this-winter/) - It's going to be crowded this winter on K2! Yet another high-profile team from Nepal has announced their intentions to grab bragging rights for the first winter summit.
- [Winter K2 Update: Team Leaving Base Camp, Search Suspended](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/09/winter-k2-update-team-leaving-base-camp-search-suspended/) - Seven Summits Treks is leaving K2 Base Camp, thus ending their effort for a winter summit. The strongest climbers on their team gave it their best effort but no one summited the world's second highest peak. Tragically two died in their effort. By my approximate count, 14 of the 20 "members" made an attempt. This
- [Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O's Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough Decisions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/31/video-interview-wilco-van-rooijen-no-os-kanchenjunga-2022-tough-decisions/) - We sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team's safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, Wilco van Rooijen, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to
- [Video Interview Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow, on his Makalu Record Ski Descent](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/27/video-interview-adrian-ballinger-alpenglow-on-his-makalu-record-ski-descent/) - The world's fifth-highest at 27,765 feet (8,463 meters), Makalu saw multiple successes this season. Still, on Monday, May 9, 2022, Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, texted me, "I summited today with Dorji Sonam and Pasang Sona (Alpenglow Sherpa). We fixed to the summit from where rope fixing ended by French couloir. And….I skied Makalu!!!!!! I
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 12 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/27/everest-2022-summit-wave-12-recap/) - The big news is not from Everest but on Makalu where Norweigan Kristin Harila along with her Sherpa support got her sixth 8000er in just 29-days, setting a new record. There were 20 summits on Everest, perhaps the last of this season as the Icefall Doctors will begin removing the ladders on Sunday, May 29, 2022. EverestER has
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 11 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/24/everest-2022-summit-wave-11-recap/) - Well, this Nepal season seems to be winding down finally. By my count, there is only one team left, and they are aiming for late in the week just as the weather gets worse. Meanwhile, Makalu still has some record seekers. The season has more records than a 1950's jukebox. 8K Expeditions got nine on
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 22 - The Season That Won't End](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/22/everest-2022-weekend-update-may-23-the-season-that-wont-end/) - This Everest season is like a runny nose that won't stop. You blow hard, wipe it clean, and all of a sudden, there it goes again. Just as I thought base camp was empty and the other 8000ers, people keep showing up at the South Col and summiting. With winds so calm (relatively - there
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 10 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/20/everest-2022-summit-wave-10/) - Another 20 summited on Saturday. Now it one team at a time. No rush.. Summit Climb reports in with, "Now 8 members are on the summit with 8 Sherpas. One member and one Sherpa are still below the summit, coming up slowly. We send them all thoughts and prayers of encouragement and hope they will
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/18/everest-2022-summit-wave-9/) - OK, it's about time to stick in the fork and see if it's done! We still have climbers on Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Nuptse, but they are pretty lonely as most teams are back in Kathmandu or even sleeping in their own beds tonight. All these folks need to get up and out as I'm
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 8 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/17/everest-2022-summit-wave-8/) - Update: Alpine Ascents Int. had summits this Wednesday morning but has not revealed names or numbers. They reported that they left the South Col well after midnight and summited around 11:00 am May 18. This is a bit odd, so perhaps the winds picked up, and they held tight, waiting for it to calm. Ben Jones, their
- [Everest 2018: Wave 11 Recap - All over after 11  Straight Summit Days!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/05/24/everest-2018-wave-11-recap-all-over-after-11-straight-summit-days/) - For the 11th straight day, #Everest2018 saw summits. I estimate well over 700 combined from both sides - a record year if it holds up. Won't know final results for few months
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 7 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/16/everest-2022-summit-wave-7/) - UPDATE: 30 + Summits Tuesday Morning, May 17, 2022 7 Summits Club had eight members with two guides supported by an enormous 20 Sherpas for a member-to-support ratio of 1:2.75! Alexander Brychkin Natalia Bykovskaya Veronika Zaripova Kovalenko Lilia Kuprichenkov Fedor Manevich Boris Motorkin Sergey Rumyantseva Olg Guides: Alexander Abramov Artem Rostovtsev Supported by: Lakpa Gelu Sherpa
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 6 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/15/everest-2022-summit-wave-6/) - Believe it or not, Everest keeps on coming on with day five. Some with huge numbers and large support ratios. At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 396 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Tuesday, depending on
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 5 - Update 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/14/everest-2022-summit-wave-5/) - OK, we have at least 35 more summits this Sunday morning, May 15, 2022 with still more to come. A true record: Kenton Cool just got his 16th Everest summit breaking Dave Hahn's long-standing 15. A non-Sherpa record. And South African Pierre Carter flew his paraglider from the South Col to Gorak Shep. IMG had
- [Special Podcast: Chatting With Jim Davidson about Everest Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/14/special-podcast-chatting-with-jim-davidson-about-everest-summits/) - While we watch summit after summit on Everest 2022, I reached out to my long-time friend, mentor, and climbing partner, Jim Davidson to take a trip down memory lane and talk about our Everest experiences. We talk training, preparation, and being on Everest during the tragic 2015 earthquake, and of course, my summit in
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 4 - Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/14/everest-2022-summit-wave-4-recap/) - It was the third straight morning of summits on Mt. Everest in very good conditions. Saturday morning saw well over 75 people summit bringing the total from both sides to around 350. More summit bid tonight for Sunday morning. Also, we are seeing many people being the first from their country to summit Everest. This
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 4 - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/13/everest-2022-summit-wave-4-update/) - The fourth wave of Everest summiters are beginning to reach the summit, with more female youngest records being set. With the Jet Stream MIA, the weather is unbelievably perfect, thus allowing the 500-600 climbers to spread out and minimize crowds, not that they don't exist. Everest now has a formula. It's straightforward: a high level
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 3 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/13/everest-2022-summit-wave-3-recap/) - The third wave of Everest summiters has come and gone, with around 22 members supported by 37 Sherpas reaching the top. Thus far, there have been about 202 summits on the Nepal side and 50 on the Tibet side, for 252 total this Spring season. Many more people are climbing now, aiming for Saturday morning,
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 3 - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/12/everest-2022-summit-wave-3/) - I'll update this post as I get new information. Click here for the full Summit Wave 2 Recap After a strong first day for multiple commercial summits, we move into what could be the largest this season. I estimate there were well over 100 total summits made up of 40 members supported by 73 Sherpas.
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 2 Recap - 100+ Summits, 1 Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/11/everest-2022-summit-wave-2-update/) - Over 100 Summits on Thursday morning, May 12, 2022 Well, the first member summit already occurred, so the one underway today, May 11-12, hoping to summit Thursday, will now be named Summit Wave 2! Much to my surprise and probably many others because it was under the radar, Portuguese climber Pedro Queirós, 41, was the first member
- [Everest 2022: First Member Summit was Yesterday, May 9!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/10/everest-2022-first-member-summit-was-yesterday-may-9/) - Much to my surprise and probably many others, Portuguese climber Pedro Queirós, 41, was the first member of 2022 to summit this spring season. He summited at 9:39 am on Monday, May 9, 2022, with Mingma Sherpa of 14summit and owned by Subin Thakuri. They posted: Congratulation to my dear friend Pedro Queirós and Mingma to be the
- [Everest 2022: Summit Wave 1 Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/10/everest-2022-summit-wave-1-underway/) - Teams are leaving the South Col for the first wave of summit pushes tonight, Tuesday, May 10, 2022. Everest summit record holder Kami Rita Sherpa was evacuated from C2 with snow blindness. The high winds seemed to have calmed allowing these first summit attempts. There appear to be excellent summit conditions, i.e. winds under 30
- [Rescue and Frostbite on Annapurna 2022: Tim Bogdanov](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/10/rescue-and-frostbite-on-annapurna-2022-tim-bogdanov/) - This is a special Podcast and YouTube interview with Tim Bogdanov, 37, who was rescued from Annapurna last month. He tells a chilling tale of getting lost and multiple mistakes he made during his no Os climb. Tim has summits of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri plus over 30 6,000-meters peaks around the world. His style
- [Everest 2022: Another Death on the 8000ers.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/07/everest-2022-another-death-on-the-8000ers/) - A member of the Russian team, Seven Summits Club has died at Camp 1 of assumed altitude sickness on Everest while completing their acclimatization rotations. He was helped to descend to C2 where he died. Pavel Kostrikin,55, according to the Himalayan Database, had attempted Everest in 2013 and 2016 turning back both times citing exhaustion.
- [Everest 2022: Fixed Line to Everest Summit on Nepal Side](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/07/everest-2022-fixed-line-to-everest-summit-on-nepal-side/) - 11 Sherpas led by Kami Rita, with his 26th summit, got the fixed ropes to the summit earlier than expected. Look for wave upon wave of commercial teams making their summits bids, some as early as tonight. And more summits on Kangchenjunga. Everest Kami Rita Sherpa at age 52, led a team of 11 Sherpas
- [Project Possible Update: Shishapangma Summit Schedule Set](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/26/project-possible-update-shishapangma-summit-schedule-set/) - Tuesday, October 29, 2019, might be a history-making day in the world of mountaineering given that Nirmal Purja and the team have now established their Shishapangma schedule.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Successful Summits!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/24/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-successful-summits/) - 10+ summits on K2 on July 24 including Nirmal Purja who now has 10 summits of 8000ers in 4 months. Adrian Ballinger, Carla Perez with no Os. 25+are hoping to summit on July 25.
- [Winter K2 Update: Climbers at C1 and C2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/03/winter-k2-update-climbers-at-c1-and-c2/) - With this small weather window, climbers are stampeding K2 to try and get an acclimatization rotation in before the winds return on Tuesday and stay strong throughout the week. The good news is the temperatures are predicted to warm a bit, could be above 0F at Base Camp! The first ones up to the high
- [Winter K2 Update: Frostbite in A Short Weather Window](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/02/winter-k2-update-frostbite-in-a-short-weather-window/) - High winds stopped many of the hopefuls on Friday but climbers left Base Camp on Saturday and are now at C1 and C2. Frostbite is being reported in some of the Sherpas who perhaps lack the same high-quality gear that the foreign clients have. The winds are predicted to calm before returning with a vengeance
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Early Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/13/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-early-progress/) - Teams are making excellent progress early in this autumn season across the Himalaya. Everest Prices to increase and more record breaking attempts are underway. A busy autumn.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Coverage Begins - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/08/13/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-coverage-begins/) - Himalayan autumn season about to start with climbs on Everest, including a ski attempt, plus the usual peaks of Manaslu & Cho Oyu. Nirmal Purja hopes to finish all 8000ers.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Cho Oyu Summits, including Nim's.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/23/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-cho-oyu-summits-including-Nimral/) - We have the first summits of the autumn season by the rope team on Cho Oyu, including Nirmal Purja. Also, another team leaves Everest/Lhotse.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Successful End to K2 Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/26/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-successful-end-to-k2-season/) - About 30 people summited K2 this season including 7 not using supplemental oxygen. No deaths reported. Good weather and leadership by Nirmal Purja were the keys. Season wrap-up.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Crowds!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/09/autumn-2019-himalayan-manaslu-crowds/) - Teams are all over the Himalaya with over 400 on Manaslu alone! An Everest solo attempt announced and a couple of first ascents planned. And, another winter K2 plan!
- [Everest 2019: Near Death on Annapurna. What Happened?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/29/everest-2019-near-death-on-annapurna-what-happened/) - On April 23, 2019 Wui Kin Chin and Nima Tshering Sherpa summited the deadly 8000er Annapurna. 40 hours later both were in Kathmandu hospitals, barely escaping death. What happened?
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Summit Push Underway Update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/23/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-summit-push-underway-update-0/) - 10 climbers will leave K2 Camp 4 at 10 pm for their summit push. High winds have cleared some of the snow but tough conditions still expected. Another 30 waiting if route is open.
- [Everest 2019: Season Summary The Year Everest Broke](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/07/everest-2019-season-summary-the-year-everest-broke/) - While #Everest2019 will probably be a record year for summits, it is also the year that Everest Broke. Many of the deaths were avoidable. Will anything change?
- [Nirmal Purja Travels to Shishapangma for Number 14](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/16/nirmal-purja-travels-to-shishapangma-for-number-14/) - It's official! Nirmal Purja has a permit to climb Shishapangma to achieve his self-imposed timetable of November 23 to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in 6 months. He's now on his way.
- [Project Possible Update: Nirmal Purja at Shishapangma Base in Bad Weather and a Toothache](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/23/project-possible-update-Nimral-at-shishapangma-base-in-bad-weather-and-a-toothache/) - Nirmal Purja and team are at Shishapangma's Base Camp in tough weather but also a toothache!. They are holding for good weather window. He's on track to complete all 14 in 7 months.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: China Issues Shishapangma Permit to Nirmal Purja](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/30/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-china-issues-shishapangma-permit-to-Nimral/) - China has agreed to give Nirmal Purja a permit to climb Shishapangma to achieve his self-imposed timetable of November 23 to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months.
- [Winter K2 Update: Nirmal Purja to Attempt High Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/26/winter-k2-update-Nimral-to-attempt-high-camp/) - #post_contentNirmal Purja and his Sherpa team arrived at Base Camp and almost immediately announced they would fix the ropes on the Black Pyramid. Could we see the first winter summit of K2 this week?
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Nirmal Purja gets Manaslu, Will China Approve Shishapangma?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/27/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-Nimral-gets-manaslu-will-china-approve-shishapangma/) - Nirmal Purja get his 13th summit on Manaslu along with 50 more taking the season total to 200. Will China approved Nim's Shishapangma permit for #14?
- [Everest 2019: Kanchenjunga Indian Climbers In Trouble - Sad Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/15/everest-2019-kanchenjunga-indian-climbers-in-trouble/) - A desperate situation is underway with everyone doing what they can to help Indian climbers Biplab Baidya and Kuntal Karar who are in immediate need on Kangchenjunga.
- [Everest 2022: World's Third Highest Peak, Kangchenjunga, Sees Multiple Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/05/everest-2022-worlds-third-highest-peak-kangchenjunga-sees-multiple-summits/) - Nepal issued 68 permits to foreigners for Kanchenjunga, 8586-meters, this spring. Today, May 5, 2022, at least 30 stood on the summit, and a few very strong climbers turned back. Hungarian climber Varga Csaba noted, "Today’s climbing was made difficult by the scorching heat. However, since it snows every day, fresh snow slows down the
- [Everest 2022: First Everest Summits of the year - Confirmed](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/02/everest-2022-first-everest-summits-of-the-year/) - Update: from Climbalya The First Everest summit in 2022 from the Tibet side. The route was fixed to the summit by fixing team on 29th April and a commercial team with 20 Tibetan climbers and 11 clients outfitted by Yarla Shampo expedition successfully summited on the 30th of April. The second summit to be followed
- [Everest 2022: Chinese Weather Station](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/05/04/everest-2022-chinese-weather-station/) - A second Chinese team of 13 climbers summited, making the total now 50 Chinese in this season. Five of the climbers installed a series of weather stations on Everest. The highest station was installed around 11:00 am, Wednesday, May 4, 2022, located just beneath the summit at 8800-meters. They live-streamed the climb and installation on
- [Everest 2022: When Will They Summit?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/26/everest-2022-when-will-they-summit/) - We'll see multiple summits over the next couple of days on several 8000-meter peaks. The ropes are almost to the South Col on Everest, and the Sherpa rope team is making good progress. There seem's to be a high number of female climbers this year, many wanting to records. As we move towards May, it's
- [Everest 2022: 8000er Summits!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/28/everest-2022-8000er-summits/) - Big news on the 'other' 8000ers with 15 members with 15 High Altitude Workers summiting on Annapurna. Over on Everest, the hard work of adjusting bodies to the thin air continues. Big Picture With a break in the weather, the summit of Annapurna was visited by 30 people on April 28, 2022. but the other
- [Everest 2022: Acclimitization Protocal](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/29/everest-2022-acclimitization-protocal/) - It's mid-season, and there are mixed results on the 'other' 8000ers and a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 10, depending on the weather. This is slower than previous estimates. Let's take a look at acclimatization and climbing
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 24 - First Rotations Begin](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/24/everest-2022-weekend-update-april-24-first-rotations-begin/) - As we enter the last week of April, the climbing on Everest is in the full program. Climbers are all over the lower mountain from EBC to Camps 1 and 2. Sherpas are incredibly busy stocking camps. Meanwhile, on the other 8000ers, progress was stalled by weather, but still climbing underway on some others. All
- [Everest 2022: Climbers Begin Rotations and Into the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/21/everest-2022-climbers-begin-rotations-and-into-the-icefall/) - It's begun. Teams are now at Camps 1 and 2 on their first rotation. There are a very low number of ladders in the Icefall this year, only four. Work continues on Nuptse as an alternative to the Icefall. Everest permits are nearing 300. A deep dive into the Khumbu Icefall. Big Picture Climbing on
- [Everest 2022: Teams in Tibet?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/21/everest-2022-teams-in-tibet/) - There was a bit of buzz today when a Nepali operator made a post saying they were on the Tibet side. As is usual with Everest you can never say never, or can you? I've maintained that China closed all climbing to foreigners for the 2022 Spring season, but as we know they did allow
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 17 - First Deaths, Carlos on his Way!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/17/everest-2022-weekend-update-april-17-first-deaths-carlos-on-his-way/) - Activity is strong at Everest Base Camp, with more still on the trek. The permits increased as expected this past week and will top out fairly soon. They still lag behind last year by over 100 for Everest. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, ready for more teams to
- [Everest 2022: A Solemn Day of Remembrance on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/18/everest-2022-a-solemn-day-of-remembrance-on-everest/) - Many teams will not climb today, April 18, 2022, as eight years ago to the day, at 6:35 am, a small section of an ice serac released onto the Khumbu Icefall. 16 Sherpas were killed in a moment as tons of ice fell, leaving the mountain workers with few options and nowhere to hide. Today
- [Everest 2022: How Fast Can You Climb Everest?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/19/everest-2022-how-fast-can-you-climb-everest/) - Heavy weather is stalling summit attempts across the Himalayas. On Everest, it's time to test the Icefall, with the first climbers entering the Icefall for rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The Sherpas have said the Icefall is "easy" this year. Let's look at why it takes two months to climb Everest or does it?
- [Everest 2021: What is Nepal Hiding about COVID at Everest Base Camp?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/26/everest-2021-what-is-nepal-hiding-about-covid-at-everest-base-camp/) - An Opinion Piece Nepal's Ministry of Tourism has a long history of stifling the truth regarding Mt. Everest. However, this spring of 2021 is a new high or, better said, a new low. The COVID-19 virus appears to be spreading quickly throughout EBC and the Khumbu, with frequent evacuations to Kathmandu, where individuals are testing
- [Everest 2022: Sherpa Death on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/14/everest-2022-sherpa-death-on-everest/) - A Sherpa has died in the IceFall near the Football Field. He apparently just collapsed as there was no fall, illness, or avalanche. Teams are starting to stock the higher camps with tents, food, and fuel getting ready for the first rotations. Big Picture Teams on Everest have already begun the acclimatization process. It usually
- [Everest 2022: Teams Arrive at Everest Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/13/everest-2022-teams-arrive-at-everest-base-camp/) - Right on schedule, several teams have arrived at Everest Base Camp. It will be their home until late May, for most, or a few days after they reach the summit. The majority of Everest summits occur between May 18th and 23rd. There is a lot of climbing left on the 'other' 8000ers. Big Picture The
- [Everest 2022: First Death on an 8000er this season - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/11/everest-2022-first-death-on-an-8000er-this-season/) - Update: the cause of death is being reported as "exhaustion and lack of additional oxygen." His body is at Camp 3 on April 12 and will be recovered according to his organizer Seven Summits Treks. Tragic death after summiting occurred on the 8000er, Dhaulagiri. Highly experienced Greek climber Antonis Sykaris is reported to have died around
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 10 - First 8000er Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/10/everest-2022-weekend-update-april-10-first-8000er-summits/) - Activity is picking up with climbers getting closer to Everest Base Camp plus many more have arrived in Kathmandu. The permits have increased as expected this past week but still lag behind last year. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. Teams will arrive at EBC this week. We saw
- [Interview with Jennifer Drummond - First Woman for the 2nd Seven Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/08/interview-with-jennifer-drummond-first-woman-for-the-2nd-seven-summits/) - Jenn Drummond doesn't let much stop her from achieving her goals. Having all of her climbing gear not show up for a climb was a mere inconvenience for this 41-year-old mother of seven children. Jenn is on a mission to be the first female climber to summit the so-called Second Seven Summits. We are all
- [Everest 2022: Interview with Garrett Madison from Namche Bazaar](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/07/everest-2022-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-namche-bazaar/) - The #Everest2022 season is taking shape as teams continue to receive climbing permits and others are well on their way to Everest Base Camp. The first 8000er summits are expected soon. Big Picture There has been an expected surge in new permits for Everest, now at 200 including 46 female climbers. The United States represents
- [Everest 2022: The Moments I First Considered Climbing Everest, and Your's?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/06/everest-2022-the-moments-i-first-considered-climbing-everest-and-yours/) - Teams continue to arrive in Kathmandu from afar. Many are proudly posting pictures of receiving their Everest climbing permits, but as of today, the pace is way off what we saw only a few years ago or even last year. In this post, I talk about the first time I thought about climbing Everest, back
- [Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 3 - Trekking](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/03/everest-2022-weekend-update-april-3-trekking/) - Now that we are in April, the trekking and climbing season will get serious. Many teams have already arrived and are trekking. Several teams are acclimatizing on their 8000-meter peaks while the Icefall Doctors are constructing the route through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2. Soon it will be time to climb! Big Picture As
- [Podcast: How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2022 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/01/podcast-how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2022-edition/) - 2022 will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 14 times providing coverage, another four seasons of actually climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2021 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series available as an e-Book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times
- [Everest 2022: Climbers to Watch - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/31/everest-2022-climbers-to-watch/) - Each year on Everest, a few climbers try to stand out from the crowd. Their motivations range from deeply personal to seeking fame and fortune. Regardless, they offer something different for followers than the usual climb, which is sad on some level. I've always felt that if you are qualified and have earned the right
- [Willie Benegas Injured in Avalanche](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/28/willie-benegas-injured-in-avalanche/) - Many long-time Everest climbers and fans know twin brothers Damian and Willie Benegas, 54, founders of the renowned Benegas Brothers guide company. On March 12, around 12:30 p.m., Willie became seriously injured in a large avalanche near the East Bowl area of Big Cottonwood Canyon near Silver Fork, located within the Wasatch-Cache National Forest along the eastern
- [Everest 2022: Climbers Leave for Nepal](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/10/everest-2022-climbers-leave-for-nepal/) - As we say hello to mid-March, climbers worldwide are making their last-minute preparations to travel to Nepal following their dream to summit Everest. However, similar to the past few years, they will be in an uncertain environment once again. In 2020 Nepal and China closed Everest due to COVID. And China kept it closed to
- [Everest 2022: A look at This Spring's 8000ers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/23/everest-2022-a-look-at-this-springs-8000ers/) - While Everest gets a lot of attention each spring season, Nepal has seven other 8000-meter peaks that deserve coverage. In some cases, they are more interesting from a pure climbing perspective than the Big E, Makalu, for example. Big Picture Climbers are streaming into Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport from all over the world. Many are
- [Everest 2022: Leaving Nothing Unsaid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/25/everest-2022-leaving-nothing-unsaid/) - Leaving home to climb Mt. Everest is no simple task. It's not a business trip; it's not a vacation; it's something entirely different. While it may be your dream, it can be something altogether different for those left behind. As we approach the end of March, scores of climbers are going through this process for
- [Everest 2022: Icefall Doctors leave for EBC and Ukraine Guide Bans Russians](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/18/everest-2022-icefall-doctors-leave-for-ebc-and-ukraine-guide-bans-russians/) - The #Everest2022 season is starting to take shape with guides establishing their base camp, the Icefall Doctors are on their way to EBC, but the war in Ukraine is beginning to take a toll on some. Big Picture In 2021, China closed Everest to foreign climbers while Nepal issued a record 408 Everest permits to
- [Everest 2022: Welcome to Everest 2022 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/03/01/everest-2022-welcome-to-everest-2022-coverage/) - Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2022 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on Everest 2022, so I officially welcome you. This season will be my 22nd season of all-things Everest: 16 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2021 seasons. In 2020,
- [Video Interview with The First All Black American Team to Attempt Everest in 2022](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/21/video-interview-with-the-first-all-black-american-team-to-attempt-everest-in-2022/) - It was an honor to do this video interview with three of the nine members, seven male, and two female, of the Full Circle Everest team. They hope to make history as the first Black climbing team to attempt to summit Everest. As of late 2021, there have been 10,184 summits but only eight Black
- [Winter Himalayan Climbs Over](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/28/winter-himalayan-climbs-over/) - High winds and heavy snow thwarted all of the ambitious plans for the 2021/22 winter Himalayan season. Using the end of February as the end of winter, it's over. It's time to turn to Spring climbing. There were attempts but no summits on five of the fourteen 8000ers: Everest, K2, Nanga Parbat, Manaslu, and Cho
- [Video Interview with Kuntal Joisher - 100% Vegan Mountain Climber](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/25/video-interview-with-kuntal-joisher-100-vegan-mountain-climber/) - Every person who climbs Everest is unique. So, of course, that person feels special, but some stand out. Take Kuntal Joisher, for example. He has summited Everest from the Tibet and Nepal sides, plus Lhotse, and completed many other amazing adventures like the Northern Icecap in Chile. But what makes Kuntal stand out is his
- [Bad Weather Continues to Thwart Winter Himalayan Summits, Vision Study](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/21/bad-weather-contiues-to-thwart-winter-himalayan-summits/) - Mother nature will not let up for the remaining efforts on Cho Oyu and K2. Attempts have been stopped by high winds and snow conditions. The end of winter is quickly approaching for the teams. Nepal There is a reason I don't post daily on these efforts, not much is happening. Winter Everest - Poor
- [Everest, Cho Oyu and K2 left for Winter Himalayan Climbs](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/16/everest-cho-oyu-and-k2-left-for-winter-himalayan-climbs/) - The efforts on Manaslu and Nanga Parbat ended without summits leaving one solo climber on Everest, a team of Sherpas with one client on K2, and two Nepali teams racing for the summit on Cho Oyu. Depending on which definition of the end of winter you use, the meteorological definition at the end of February, or
- [One by One, Winter Himalayan Climbs End](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/10/one-by-one-winter-himalayan-climbs-end/) - With the heavy snowfall, and unrelenting winds, one by one, the ambitious winter plans are falling. There is a reason so few people attempt any of the world's highest peaks in the winter, and this season is a case study. It appears unlikely anyone will summit this winter ... but I could be wrong! Nepal
- [Everest 2022: Video Interview with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/02/09/everest-2022-video-interview-with-adrian-ballinger-alpenglow/) - With the Everest 2022 season just around the corner, it appears the Tibet side will be closed and continued uncertainty about the wisdom of climbing on the Nepal side. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2022 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/12/13/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2022-edition/) - 2022 will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 14 times providing coverage, another four seasons of actually climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2021 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series available as an e-Book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times
- [Winter Himalayan Climbs Fight the Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/01/31/winter-himalayan-climbs-fight-the-weather/) - Poor weather across the Himalayas continues to stall significant progress on Everest and Manaslu. Another team joins the race to create a commercial route on Cho Oyu and tragedy in Patagonia. Nepal There are three efforts underway, Everest via the West Ridge, Cho Oyu and Manaslu. Meanwhile, operators are already gearing up for the Everest
- [Winter Himalayan Climbs Go/ No Go](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/01/25/winter-himalayan-climbs-go-no-go/) - Winter climbs of the world's highest peaks have a poor summit rate primarily due to harsh weather. Well, history repeats itself this winter of 2021/2022. Teams are calling it quits or returning to large cities to wait out the weather. Nepal Winter Everest - Fighting the Wind German climber Jost Kobusch is having a tough
- [Poor Weather Hampers Winter Himalayan Climbs](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/01/17/poor-weather-hampers-winter-himalayan-climbs/) - Well, it's winter in the northern hemisphere, so poor weather is the norm. Teams across Nepal and Pakistan are feeling it. And in Antarctica, they are suffering as well. Welcome to 2022. Nepal - Winter Everest - Down for R&R German climber Jost Kobusch is holding tight waiting for a longer weather window before resuming his
- [Climbing Updates Early 2022](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/01/03/climbing-updates-early-2022/) - As we enter 2022, climbing activity around the world hits its stride. However, poor weather has delayed several expeditions so patience is a virtue. Looking forward a few months to Spring Everest 2002, uncertainty is growing as more companies cancel their plans. Also, can you sue your guide if you don't summit? Nepal Winter Everest
- [Heavy Snow Stalls Himalayan Climbs](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/01/10/heavy-snow-stalls-himalayan-climbs/) - Heavy snow has stalled most progress across the Himalayas. Meanwhile, good conditions in Antarctica are allowing multiple Vinson summits. Teams start out on Aconcagua. COVID hits Nepal, again. Nepal - Winter Everest - Down for R&R German climber Jost Kobusch is taking a rest after making progress for his no O solo attempt on Everest's West
- [Doing Hard Things](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/12/23/doing-hard-things/) - "Alan, I want to summit a Colorado 14er next summer. I think you work with people who are going for Everest, so my goal may not be big or hard enough for you. But this will be my Everest, and I know it will be hard for me." Joe had written on his contact form
- [Recent Climbing Updates](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/12/21/recent-climbing-updates/) - With winter officially here, we see some ambitious climbs begin on Everest, Manalsu, and even Nanga Parbat. So here's a quick round-up of some of the more exciting activities. Nepal Winter Everest German climber Jost Kobusch has arrived at Everest Base Camp Nepal for his no O solo attempt on Everest's West Ridge. Please see
- [Comparing the Routes of Everest - 2022 edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/12/13/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2022-edition/) - There are 20 routes on Everest but 98% take either the Northeast or Southeast Ridges, the others take deadly risks to blaze new routes.
- [Everest by the Numbers: 2022 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/12/13/everest-by-the-numbers-2022-edition/) - Since 1953, 5,780 different climbers have summited #Everest 10,155 times, 876 in 2019 alone. 306 people have died. This is my annual post breaking down the Everest Statistics using the Himalayan Database.
- [Everest 2021: Team Locations and Headlines](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/28/everest-2021-team-locations-and-headlines/) - LATEST HEADLINE June 2, 2021: SEASON OVER 472 summtis Welcome to the 2021 edition of Alan Arnette's annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It's based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011
- [Recent Climbing News](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/11/15/recent-climbing-news/) - We are in the saddle season for the big mountains - 8000ers post-monsoon in Nepal and anticipated winter climbs this winter. So here's a quick round-up of some of the more interesting recent activities. Ama Dablam One of the more popular autumn climbs in the Khumbu area, she saw many commercial summits this year but
- [Video Interview with Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry: Six 8000ers in Six Months](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/11/01/video-interview-with-rebecca-becks-ferry-six-8000ers-in-six-months/) - I caught up with British climber Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry to discuss her amazing 2021 climbs on six 8000-meter mountains. This British mother of five children ages 12 to 18 had limited high altitude experience, with summits on Island Peak and Ama Dablam, but deep inside, she wanted to try the hard ones saying, let's begin
- [Deaths on Chimborazo](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/10/25/deaths-on-chimborazo/) - A rare deadly avalanche on Ecuador's highest peak, Chimborazo at 20,549-feet/6,263-meters, took four lives on Sunday, October 24, 2021. An all Ecuadoran team of 12 climbers and guides was approaching the false summit near 6,100-meters when the snow gave way. One person was injured. Another group of 20 required assistance. The incident occurred at 6:30
- [Video Interview with Jon Gupta: 7 Himalayan Climbs in 2021](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/10/20/video-interview-with-jon-gupta-7-himalayan-climbs-in-2021/) - I caught up with British climbing Guide, Jon Gupta of Mountain Expeditions to discuss his amazing 2021 where he guided mostly one client, fellow Brit Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry on six 8000-meter mountains. He also climbed a 7000er with a friend and is now on Ama Dablam. Overall he climbed (time the discussion starts in the
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: The Future of Manaslu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/10/06/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-the-future-of-manaslu/) - With the 2021 Autumn climbing season winding down, questions are re-emerging as to the future classification of summit. This is not new, but with Manaslu taking center stage, it has gained momentum. Meanwhile, we should see a summit push soon on Kangchenjunga. Big Picture Dwarfing all other news from this Autumn's climbing season was the
- [Looking For Climbers Who Have Been To High Altitude After Vision Correction Surgery ](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/10/05/looking-for-climbers-who-have-been-to-high-altitude-after-vision-correction-surgery/) - As a public service announcement, I'm passing on this invitation to participate in research for climbers who have had refractive eye surgery, such as LASIK or PRK. Thanks Alan Exposure to high altitude after vision correction surgery poses a risk of developing a variety of issues ranging from dry eyes, light sensitivity, and nearsightedness, to
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: More Summits across the Himalaya](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/10/01/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-more-summits-across-the-himalaya/) - More summits on Manaslu fore summits, and over 30 on Dhaulagiri and soon on Kangchenjunga. And a difficult summit on one of the 2nd Seven Summits. Manaslu - Summits Update: Lukas contacted me to say the team did not reach the main summit. Furtenbach Adventure's used the new route on reached the foresummit of Manaslu to
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Summits, Elbrus Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/27/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-manaslu-summits-elbrus-deaths/) - Climbers are summiting Manaslu daily with no issues reported. Meanwhile tragic news from the highest peak in Europe with multiple deaths on Elbrus last week. Big Picture Manaslu once again is showing that it's one of the most "achievable" 8000-meter peaks. Along with Cho Oyu, Manaslu is often the first 8000er for climbers seeking Everest
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: Who Really Summited Manaslu this Year?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/29/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-who-really-summited-manaslu-this-year/) - As we get near the end of the Manaslu season, there are more summits piling up, well over 150 now, and sadly one death, but controversy abounds over who really summited. The weather took a turn for the worse holding some teams at C3 or C4 but they are pushing back up now. Also the
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: Death on Manaslu - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/29/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-death-on-manaslu/) - More information is coming in on the death. The corrected information is below: The fallen is Canadian Brent Seal, 37, climbing with TAG Nepal. source From climbers on the mountain, I'm told an American female Canadian male has died between Camps 4 and 3 on Manaslu on September 29, 2021. She He was said to be
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: Preparing for the Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/22/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-preparing-for-the-summit/) - With teams well acclimatized on Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, and Kangchenjunga, they are now in weather watch mode for a suitable weather window. Some are expecting September 27/28 on Manaslu. Here's an overview of the action. Big Picture The Autumn seasons started off wet and soggy with the monsoon refusing to leave on time (I hate it when
- [Video Interview with Jost Kobusch's Winter 2021/22 Everest West Ridge Attempt](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/09/video-interview-with-jost-kobuschhs-winter-2021-22-everest-west-ridge-attempt/) - I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France to discuss his upcoming 2021/22 winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. This exact style and the route had never been attempted. In 2019, Jost tagged his high point at 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. He said before starting the expedition, he would
- [Climbing As You Grow Older](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/09/06/climbing-as-you-grow-older/) - I recently turned 65. Yeah, I know! But before you stop reading, this is a tale for the young and, well, the not-so-young. The question is, "When do you stop climbing?" Does age even matter in climbing? Yuichiro Miura and Tamae Watanabe hold the Everest age records at 80 and 78 for males and females,
- [Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: Manaslu and More!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/08/30/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-manaslu-and-more/) - The autumn climbing and trekking season has begun in Nepal. It remains to been seen if it's business as usual or a rerun of the spring debacle on Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Annapurna. Early signs suggest the latter. Guests of Nepal have been encouraged to return and be generous with their money to give aid to
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Season Wrap-Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/08/03/k2-2021-summer-coverage-season-wrap-up/) - The summer Karakorum season is over, well, I think so. There are always a few surprises. The 48 summits on K2 were close but not a record. 2018 saw a record with 62 total summits, followed by 2004 with an estimated 51. This season saw two deaths, one on a new route on K2 and
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Post SummitVideo Interview with Garrett Madison](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/30/k2-2021-summer-coverage-post-summitvideo-interview-with-garrett-madison/) - Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering has now summited K2 three times. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. He was the leader for the 21 person team who submitted on July 28, 2018, at approximately 6:07 AM
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Summit Wave #2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/28/k2-2021-summer-coverage-summit-wave-2/) - After a big day on July 27th with 22 summits, the 28th was better with another 21 from Madison Mountaineering and three from Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours. Thus far, and it's probably over, there have been 46 summits on K2. Madison Mountaineering posted their summits by: # NAME COUNTRY 1 Mr. Garrett Madison USA
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Summit Wave #1 SUMMITS!!! - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/26/k2-2021-summer-coverage-summit-wave-1-summits/) - Update: July 27, 2021 16:00 PT There were 22 summits on K2 but none today on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I due to snow conditions. Several Pakistani climbers furthered their CVs with the K2 summits plus Ukrain had a great day. Congratulations to all. More K2 attempts aiming for July 28. Pioneer Adventure got 10
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Summit Wave #1 Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/26/k2-2021-summer-coverage-summit-wave-1-underway/) - The first K2 summit wave is underway around 22:00 PT, Monday, July 26, 2021. The lead is from Sherpas from Pioneer Adventure and Madison Mountaineering. There are many Pakistani climbers, and many friends and families following them closely. I'm not able to mention every person by name so feel free to put them in the
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Missing K2 Winter Bodies Found](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/26/k2-2021-summer-coverage-missing-k2-winter-bodies-found/) - With teams now above the High Camp, C4, fixing the route to the summit, the bodies of the three climbers who died this past winter season 2020/21 were found. K2 summits perhaps tonight, July 26, 2021. Three Bodies Found on K2 The bodies of the three missing winter climbers, Pakistani Ali Sadpara, Icelander John Snorri,
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Major Team Quits on K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/25/k2-2021-summer-coverage-major-team-quits-on-k2/) - With the death of Scottish legend, Rick Allen, now Karakorum Expeditions has decided to end their entire effort on K2 this summer. Allen was on their permit but certainly not guided as the other commercial clients hoped to be on the Abruzzi Spur. I had been receiving word from climbers that the expedition was already
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Death on New K2 Route, Progress on the Abruzzi](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/25/k2-2021-summer-coverage-death-on-new-k2-route-progress-on-the-abruzzi/) - K2 continues to live up to its reputation by taking another life, this time on a new route. Meanwhile, teams are making progress on the Abruzzi but some climbers feel the lack of support and organization make this summer too dangerous and have thrown in the towel. Those remaining continue to target July 27th and
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: K2 Summit Push Starts](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/23/k2-2021-summer-coverage-k2-summit-push-starts/) - The K2 teams are leaving Base Camp for the summit push targeting July 27th and 28th. The poor weather has finally let up and they are hoping the winds will be calm on the summit. Karakorum Big Picture - It's Time Climbing is all about patience and waiting for the right weather, after years, months,
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: K2 Summit Begins Soon](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/21/k2-2021-summer-coverage-k2-summit-begins-soon/) - With the summits and tragedy on Broad Peak subsidizing, albeit, with still much unknown, the K2 teams are patiently waiting out the poor weather for their chance. However, it appears the mountain may have received well over a foot of fresh snow, thus increasing the avalanche danger, especially around Camp 3. Karakorum Big Picture -
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Death and Trouble on Broad Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/19/k2-2021-summer-coverage-death-and-trouble-on-broad-peak/) - Scattered reports are coming in of serious trouble and death from Sunday's summits on Broad Peak as the peaks are now being hit by bad weather. The news agency, Yonhao News Agency, reported that Korean climber Kim Hong Bin, 57, is missing and presumed dead. Also, I received a text from a climber on Broad
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Karakorum Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/18/k2-2021-summer-coverage-karakorum-summits/) - There were summits on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II on Sunday, July 19, 2021. Meanwhile, a big weather event is forecasted to being on Monday, July 19 which should force everyone to stay in their base camp for a while. Karakorum Big Picture - Tennanicity Huge props to the summiters on Broad Peak and GII
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Broad Peak Summit Push Threatened](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/17/k2-2021-summer-coverage-broad-peak-summit-push-threatened/) - Don Bowie paints an unsettling picture on Broad Peak where the summit push was abandoned. It's unclear on their next step. With weather moving in, most teams will retreat to the safety of their base camps. Karakorum Big Picture - Teamwork One of the issues rarely understood by the general public on the 8000ers is
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Broad Peak Summit Push Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/16/k2-2021-summer-coverage-broad-peak-summit-push-underway/) - Climbing continues on both K2, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II. Teams hope to catch this narrow weather window for Broad Peak and GII but later in the month for K2. Heavy snow has been reported across the Karakorum. I remain concerned for avalanche danger on all peaks, all routes. Summits are anticipated this weekend. Karakorum
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Video Interview with Garrett Madison from the Karakorum](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/14/k2-2021-summer-coverage-video-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-the-karakorum/) - Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He's hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. With the new
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Teams Climbing!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/28/k2-2021-summer-coverage-teams-climbing/) - Teams have arrived at K2 Base Camp and climbing has already begun with the fixed ropes to C1 on K2's Abruzzi route and climbers at C1 on GI and reached C2 on Broad Peak. Manzoor Ahmad of Karakorum Tours who has a team on K2 and BP this season tells me of the exact numbers
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: West Ridge Team On Schedule](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/12/k2-2021-summer-coverage-west-ridge-team-on-schedule/) - We had the first 8000er summit over the weekend plus the K2 West Ridge duo are making excellent progress. The route is fixed to C3 on K2's Abruzzi route. I anticipate K2 summits starting soon. Very early but the weather may still play a few tricks. Big Picture Well, we have our first 8000er summit
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Heavy Snow Stops Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/13/k2-2021-summer-coverage-heavy-snow-stops-climbing/) - A big snowstorm has stalled climbing on K2 and Broad Peak. Meanwhile, the Nanga effort has ended. Some climbers are biding their time at C2 on K2 in difficult conditions. A quick look at today's news. Everest 2021 Spring Results In Everest news from this past spring season, Nepal's Department of Tourism said a total
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Rotations Begin](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/08/k2-2021-summer-coverage-rotations-begin/) - The poor weather in the Karakorum that slowed climbing has eased a bit, allowing teams to work on their acclimatization rotations in earnest. Big Picture After a bit of a slow start due to the poor weather, primarily winds and snow, teams are starting to make their acclimatization rotations. If they are climbing without supplemental
- [K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Poor Weather Slows Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/04/k2-2021-summer-coverage-poor-weather-slows-progress/) - Poor weather in the Karakorum has slowed climbing as the base camps continue to fill up with new teams. However, progress continues with the fixed ropes reaching low camps on several of the 8000ers and some climbers have spent multiple nights there already. That said, not a lot of new news this past week. There
- [K2 2021 Summer Season Coverage Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/26/k2-2021-summer-season-coverage-begins/) - Welcome to my annual coverage of the K2 summer climbing season. I will be reporting from my home in Colorado this year based on my personal experience of our successful 2014 K2 summit and covering the action the last six years. 2021 will see a less crowded Karakorum compared to pre-pandemic times. I estimate around
- [Denali 2021: Season RoundUp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/22/denali-2021-season-roundup/) - The 2021 climbing season on North America's highest peak, Denali, is nearing the end. I take a look at some "fun facts" and how this season has progressed. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything VideoCast The Podcast on alanarnette.com You can listen to #everest2021 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more.
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview with Art Muir - Oldest American Summiter](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/16/everest-2021-video-interview-with-art-muir-oldest-american-summiter/) - Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Madison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer
- [K2 2021: Interview with Graham Zimmerman - West Ridge](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/10/k2-2021-interview-with-graham-zimmerman-west-ridge/) - This summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge. Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen. While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June
- [Everest 2021 Season Summary: The Year Nepal Broke Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/03/everest-2021-season-summary-the-year-nepal-broke-everest/) - Satire sprinkled with a few annoying facts. As I sat down to write a recap of the 2021 spring season on Everest, these words came to mind: COVID, coverup, lies, misdirection, personal attacks, denials. Oh, and cyclones, wind, waiting, risk, and yes, summits. But, oh my, at what a cost? If 2019 was the year
- [Everest 2021: Wave 6 Recap. And the Season is a Wrap!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/06/02/everest-2021-wave-6-recap-and-the-season-is-a-wrap/) - A reported 41 people (22 members with 19 Sherpa) summited on Tuesday, June 1 ending the season. Others canceled for various reasons from health to conditions. Heavy snow stopped additional Lhotse summits. By my count: 195 members with 339 Sheras thus far, for a total of 534 summits. The season should be over now with
- [Everest 2021: Summits on May 31 - Wave 5](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/30/everest-2021-summits-on-may-31/) - A reported 16 people (6 members with 10 Sherpas) took a gamble and summited on Monday, May 31 at 7:00 am. They evaluated the risky avalanche conditions after feet on fresh snow and used their powerful Sherpa resources to break the trail for their clients to the top. Well done by all and congratulations on
- [Everest 2021: More Summit Bids Underway. Wave 6](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/31/everest-2021-more-summit-bids-underway-wave-6/) - After a reported 28 people (10 members with 18 Sherpa) summited on Monday, May 31, a few final teams are underway. Also more details on the C3 situation re: avalanches. By my count: 167 members with 284 Sheras thus far, for a total of 451 summits. In addition to the 16 people from Elite Exped
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Final Summit Bid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/30/everest-2021-weekend-update-plus-final-summit-bid/) - This was a tough week on Everest with Cyclone Yaas pummeling the Hill with heavy snow. Most teams have wisely ended their season but one or two are still pulling their clients higher. Thankfully, the Cyclone appears to have moved on. Last Week Last week, many teams at C2 have returned to base camp after
- [Everest 2021: Weather Relents, Unclear Plans](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/29/everest-2021-weather-relents-unclear-plans/) - Heavy snow has finally ended but there is talk of avalanches, stolen oxygen and the Icefall Doctors extending maintaining the route a few more days. Dan Mazur of Summit Climb made news with a dramatic post telling that Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face was destroyed by an avalanche. His source was an unnamed Sherpa:
- [Everest 2021: Weather Hold](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/28/everest-2021-weather-hold/) - Heavy snow continues on Everest, but a couple of teams at C2 hoping for a summit window from May 29-31. Garrett Madison tells me from Base Camp around 10 am Friday, May 28, "Snowing hard here in EBC..climbers worried now about too much snow & avalanche danger on the Lhotse face...SPCC closing the icefall May
- [Everest 2021: Delays Due to Cyclone Yaas](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/27/everest-2021-delays-due-to-cyclone-yaas/) - Heavy snow was reported on Everest, but some teams are reporting low winds. Once again, the truth is opaque on Everest. The gag order by the Nepal government has had a dramatic impact on teams' willingness to share any information that could be construed as negative, thus all the happy talk. A handful of teams
- [Everest 2021: More Cancellations due to COVID and Wind](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/26/everest-2021-more-cancellations-due-to-covid-and-wind/) - If it's not COVID, it's the winds. two more teams end their expedition early telling climbers, "it's over." A handful are still eyeing the end of the week for one last try. With Cyclone Yaas making landfall in India, the winds are touching Everest. Nepal's Meteorological Forecasting Division said the storm is now in the process
- [Everest 2021: Wind Watch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/25/everest-2021-wind-watch/) - With Cyclone Yaas making landfall in India, the winds are touching Everest. The past 24 to 48 hours have been a bit difficult for teams descending from the Monday morning summit. Other teams are holding for the storm to pass aiming for summit bids later this week. Some random points from this season. Summit Climb team
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 4 Wrap Up, 4th Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/24/everest-2021-summit-wave-4-wrap-up-4th-death/) - The 2021 season is winding down with fewer climbers on each wave. Sadly, a Sherpa died at the South Col. It appears that less than 25 summited on Tuesday morning with some teams still holding back waiting to see how Cyclone Yaas will impact the mountain. Many operators are targeting the morning of May 26
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 4 - Update #1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/23/everest-2021-summit-wave-4/) - UPDATE #1: Summit Climb reports: "Summit - 4:30am -WE ARE NOW ON THE SUMMIT !!! It is very windy here." and later, "Back On South Col - All 8 of us summited and are back safe at Camp 4, in the tents drinking tea, soup, resting on oxygen. Exhausted and happy is how i would
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 3 Wrap Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/23/everest-2021-summit-wave-3-wrap-up/) - A big day of summits on Sunday, May 23, 2021, albeit in blustery conditions. I estimate over 40 members supported by a stunning 67 Sherpas summited. It appears a similar number is headed up Sunday night for a Monday morning summit before snow and winds return. Lhotse also had many summits. Mountain Professionals had seven
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Cyclone Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/23/everest-2021-weekend-update-plus-cyclone-update/) - We saw summit wave 3 today, Sunday, May 23 2021 on #Everest2021. Estimates range from 150 to 170 summits, including Sherpas. This takes the season total to around 300 total summits, way off from the 2019 record 660 just on the Nepal side. High winds delayed departure from the South Col by several hours. Another 100
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 3 - Update 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/22/everest-2021-summit-wave-3/) - UPDATE 3: PIONEER EVEREST EXPEDITION 2021 UPDATE!!! We are happy to announce that most of team have already made to the summit!!! Following are the list of Members and Sherpa who have successfully reach the summit. 1. Mr. Valentyn - Ukraine 2. Mr. Sambhaji - India 3. Mr. Deepak - India 4. Ms. Olga -
- [Everest 2021: Risk Management](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/21/everest-2021-risk-management/) - Teams are making serious summit plans with a few already staged at the South Col albeit in windy conditions. In fact, it's too windy to go for the summit so they will hold in place Saturday, May 22 hoping to leave late Saturday night for a Sunday, May 23rd summit. It's all about risk management
- [Everest 2021: Summit Plans](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/20/everest-2021-summit-plans/) - The remanence of Cyclone Tauktae is playing cat and mouse with the aggressive teams. Madison Mountaineering hoped to get a jump on everyone and went to C3 only to find high winds. Four Sherpas from IMG made it to the South Col and also reported high winds. So the summit plans are off by a day
- [Everest 2021: Will They Summit?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/19/everest-2021-will-they-summit/) - Between cyclones, an ever-shortening weather window, rising COVID rates, and now the Icefall Doc saying the route will be closed on Saturday, May 29, what are the chances of seeing summits? Excellent, I'd say. Let's break it down. Potential Summit Schedule Some teams are already at Camp 2, with estimates as high as 200 people
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview with Lukas Furtenbach After Cancellation](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/17/everest-2021-video-interview-with-lukas-furtenbach-after-cancellation/) - Lukas Furtenbach, of Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures made global headlines after he canceled his spring 2021 Everest expedition on the Nepal side last Friday. This follows the Chinese decision to cancel their only team on the Tibet side. Meanwhile, the officials responsible for the safety of guests climbing in Nepal deny climbers have COVID at Everest Base Camp.
- [Everest 2021: Sherpa Death, 2nd Cyclone on the Way](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/18/everest-2021-sherpa-death-2nd-cyclone-on-the-way/) - Sad news from Everest with the third death of the season. A second cyclone is developing in the Bay of Bengal that has the potential to impact Everest around May 25, as Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae bears down on Nepal but should clear out soon. Teams are leaving C2 for their summit bid now, targeting
- [Everest 2021: "Climbers Stand Down"](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/16/everest-2021-climbers-stand-down/) - The good news is the jet stream is easing off Everest as it moves north, the bad news is a cyclone skirting the west coast of India is expected to turn right running perpendicular to the Himalayas bringing strong weather along with it. It could "flood the mountain" according to meteorologist Chris Tomer and Everest
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 16](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/15/everest-2021-weekend-update-may-16/) - It was a big week of news on Everest this past week from clients summiting to a major operator canceling their expedition. This next week looks to be even bigger with 300 people trying to summit beginning May 19. Last Week I estimate 172 summits last week on May 11, 12, and 13. The jet
- [Everest 2021: Another Expedition Cancellation Citing COVID](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/15/everest-2021-first-expedition-cancellation-citing-covid/) - Furtenbach Adventures canceled his entire #Everest2021 expedition citing COVID risks at base camp. This follows the Chinese decision to cancel their only team on the Tibet side. Meanwhile, the officials responsible for the safety of guests climbing in Nepal deny climbers have COVID at Everest Base Camp. Austrian operator, Lukas Furtenbach, told his entire team
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update March 28 - And We're Off!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/28/everest-2021-weekend-update-march-28-and-were-off/) - The Everest 2021 season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home and in many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to being the arduous process of establishing a home for over 700 people this spring season. As I've noted,
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 18](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/18/everest-2021-weekend-update-april-17/) - Everest Base Camp is quickly filling up. Sherpas are busy establishing and stocking Camps 1 and 2. Thus far the fixed ropes have been set to the Yellow Band around 24,000-feet. As previously noted, there are few trekkers this spring so the teahouses and trails feel empty to those I've spoken with. Internet at EBC is
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 25 -  COVID and Records](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/25/everest-2021-weekend-update-april-25/) - The headlines for last week are COVID and record permits. Four people have been evacuated either from Everest Base Camp or very close with symptoms of COVID-19. Once in Kathmandu, they tested positive for the virus. It's a similar story for a few Sherpas. Look for the ropes to reach the summit this next week.
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/02/everest-2021-weekend-update-may-2/) - It's clear that there is or has been COVID at Everest Base Camp. Well, at least it clear that people who had it there were taken to Kathmandu where they tested positive and are receiving treatment. It's also clear that Nepal is seeing a huge spike in new cases and has gone under lockdown once
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 8](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/08/everest-2021-weekend-update-may-8/) - The rope fixing team made the summit on Friday, May 7, 2021, opening the route to the over 300 climbers left at base camp. The weather remains good, for Everest, so look for many teams to jump on this window. Meanwhile, it appears that the virus spread has stalled for the moment with no new
- [Everest 2021: A Look at Deaths on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/14/everest-2021-a-look-at-deaths-on-everest/) - The #Everest2021 scene is quiet now with the jet stream on top of the summit. On the Tibet side, China canceled the only expedition there. I'm getting a few reports of high winds at C3 from the last rotation, and it's worse now. That said, look for teams to begin their summit bids aiming for
- [Avoiding Death on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/11/18/avoiding-death-on-everest/) - 94 paying members have died on Everest between 1996 and 2016. Does it matter who you climb with on Everest? I analyize the data in this post.
- [Everest 2021: 2 Deaths on Everest - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/12/everest-2021-2-deaths-on-everest/) - Tragic news for the recent summit pushes. Two climbers using Seven Summits Treks have died both during their descent according to SST co-founder Chhang Dawa Sherpa : ~ We express our sadness and deepest sympathy over the passing of Mr. Abdul and Mr. Liu - 12 May 2021. * Abdul Waraich (Switzerland), passed away near to
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 2 - Wrap Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/12/everest-2021-summit-wave-2-wrap-up/) - At least 50 people summited on Tuesday morning, May 12, 2021. This takes the total to over 150 for the first two summit waves of commercial clients. By my count, there are as many as 350 clients with their Sherpas yet to make a summit attempt. We may see a few more for Thursday, May
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 2 - Update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/11/everest-2021-summit-wave-2/) - Wave 2: Update 2 Sisters Nima Jangbu, Tshering Namgya, and Dawa Futi Sherpa summited Everest at 7:00 am with Imagine Nepal Treks Peak Promotion put two members and two sherpas on the top at 7:40 am. They were Jitendra Gaware, Jigmat Tharchin, Pasang Sherpa and Phurba Sherpa. Note 101 summits last night. Crazy silly client to
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 1 Wrap-Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/11/everest-2021-summit-wave-1-wrap-up/) - Over 50 people summited Everest between 5:30 am and 9 am on Tuesday morning, May 11, 2021. There are least that many at the South Col ready to go tonight. Before looking at who made it note that Nepal extended the ban on international flights until May 31. Note: Many of the Nepali teams are
- [Everest 2021: Summit Wave 1 - Update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/10/everest-2021-summit-wave-1/) - Note: Many of the Nepali teams are using this quote"...summit of Mt Everest with the new height of 8848.86m" What a PR spin! See my analysis of this "new height." UPDATE 2: Ascent Himalayas got 16 people on top 5 members and 11 (!) support: AH EVEREST EXPEDITION 2021:All our team made to the summit
- [Everest 2021: Mixed Messages, Lhotse Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/10/everest-2021-mixed-messages-lhotse-summits/) - We can expect summits in the next 24 hours from many commercial teams. There are some comments suggesting summits have occurred daily since last Friday when the ropes reached the top, but that's unconfirmed. The winds are amazingly low, under 15 mph on the summit according to multiple computer models. I'll be posting updates on
- [Everest 2021: Summit Week?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/09/everest-2021-summit-week/) - With the ropes to the summit, it's time for member summits. The weather, specifically winds under 30 mph above the South Col, seem likely into the week, but this could always change. A poor scenario is for teams to get to the South Col, and get slammed by the winds stopping a summit bid forcing
- [Everest 2021: First Summits!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/07/everest-2021-first-summits/) - We have the first summits of Everest 2021 spring season. The rope fixing team from Seven Summits Treks bought the rights to fix the ropes, led by record summit holder Kami Rita Sherpa. He got his 25th summit and most likely will return for a 26th. Look for a slew of summits over the next
- [Everest 2021: Climbing!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/06/everest-2021-climbing/) - The season continues on schedule and as normal as possible in this difficult year. Reports of helicopter evacuations have slowed to a trickle either because they are not happening or no one is talking. We know for sure the government is mum. Let's assume there are no new cases and hope for the best. Slowly
- [Everest 2021: Good News From Everest at Mid Season.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/04/everest-2021-good-news-from-everest-at-mid-season/) - Now that we are solidly into May, about mid-season for spring Everest, let's pause for a moment and take inventory of the situation. At the risk of giving readers whiplash, the bottom line for me is that things are looking better ... considering. Without a doubt, this may be the most challenging season in the
- [Everest 2021: Interview with Garrett Madison from Everest Base Camp on COVID](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/03/everest-2021-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-everest-base-camp-on-covid/) - I caught up with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp. He describes #Everest2021 thus far as they prepare for a 2:00 am departure back to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. This will be their last rotation before the summit push in a couple of weeks. I asked him how
- [Everest 2021: Will the Everest Season be Cancelled?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/02/everest-2021-will-the-everest-season-be-cancelled/) - A provocative headline, I know, so I won't bury the lead. In my opinion only a slight chance, so, no, the Nepal officials will not cancel the season as many thought they did in 2014 and 2015 (technically, they never did cancel). However, individual teams may cancel as we see some well-known teams with multiple
- [Everest 2021: Interview with the UK's Kenton Cool](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/02/everest-2021-interview-with-the-uks-kenton-cool/) - Kenton Cool is one of the premier climbers from the United Kingdom. Among his many accomplishments, he skied the 8000er Cho Oyu, made the first, and thus far only, climb of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse in seven days in 2013. And he has summited Everest 14 times. He's currently on Everest with a client attempting
- [Everest 2021: "The Covid situation at EBC is a total shitstorm. I had no clue what I was flying into."](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/29/everest-2021-the-covid-situation-at-ebc-is-a-total-shitstorm-i-had-no-clue-what-i-was-flying-into/) - Nepal issued even more Everest and Lhotse permits smashing the 2019 record. Now at 408 for Everest and 123 for Lhotse but the real headline is from a climber who left base camp : I have taken a helicopter out of EBC back to Kathmandu after 1 day. The Covid situation at EBC is a total
- [Everest 2021: What Virus?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/30/everest-2021-what-virus/) - Well, after yesterday's headline of "The Covid situation at EBC is a total shitstorm" it's business as usual for most teams on Everest. I even got this comment from Alpine Ascents, "Maybe their Basecamp is a “shitshow”, ours is not." Another comment called the post, "publishing one woman’s hysterical account does a disservice to those
- [Everest 2021: Will Record Everest Permits Put the No O's Climbers at Risk?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/23/everest-2021-will-record-everest-permits-put-the-no-os-climbers-at-risk/) - Up to a foot of heavy snow at Everest Base Camp brought climbing to a halt the last 36 hours. Teams will let the snow settle for a day or so before heading higher for acclimatization starting this weekend. Record permits, now approaching 400 will guarantee crowding unless the weather is significantly better than usual.
- [Interview with Ed Viesturs and David Schaeffer of Himali gear company](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/29/interview-with-ed-viesturs-and-david-scheffer-of-himali-gear-company/) - University of Colorado graduate, David Schaeffer started the outdoor gear company, Himali, in 2014 along with Tendi Sherpa. Today, the Boulder, Colorado company has grown nicely and, in my opinion, is about to really take off. Ed Viesturs, known globally as an author, speaker, and the only American to have summited all 14 of the
- [Everest 2021: Teams in the Western Cwm, EBC COVID Evacuations](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/28/everest-2021-teams-in-the-western-cwm-ebc-covid-evacuations/) - Climbers in the Western Cwm are extending their stays to avoid EBC with the current spat of COVID evacuations. Good weather is allowing climbers to tag Camp 3 at almost 7,000-meters. The rope fixing teams reached the South Col. I expect the summit in a few days. COVD is Real at EBC Multiple reports have
- [Everest 2021: The Missing Jet Stream](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/27/everest-2021-the-missing-jet-stream/) - With climbers enjoying excellent weather while in the Western Cwm, meteorologists are seeing a strange phenomenon - a missing jet stream. These high winds aloft are the key for summiting Everest in particular. When the jet is off the summit, the winds drop below 30 mph, the maximum most guides will let their clients climb
- [Annapurna 2021: Interview with Tracee Metcalfe](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/24/annapurna-2021-interview-with-tracee-metcalfe/) - A record 68 people summited the world's 10th highest peak at 8,091 m (26,545 ft), Annapurna, on April 16, 2021, including 14 women, six of whom are Nepali. One of those female summiteers was, Coloradoan Tracee Metcalfe, who spoke with me from Pokura, Nepal just before she was leaving for Dhaulagiri. As a way of
- [Annapurna 2021: Summits! - Update 4](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/16/annapurna-summits/) - #4 UPDATE 19 April 2021: FOUND!! The Russian climbers are Sergey Kondrashkin, Alexander Luthokin, and Dmitry Sinev were found between C3 and C4 and brought down by helicopter longline. Luthokin was returned to base camp while the other two went to Kathmandu with minor frostbite. #3 UPDATE 18 April 2021: The Russian climbers are Sergey Kondrashkin, Alexander Luthokin,
- [Author Interview: Mark Synnott - The Third Pole](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/23/author-interview-mark-synnott-the-third-pole/) - While there are many books about Everest, only a few rise to a level above the rest. For me, it involves excellent storytelling, a unique point of view, a highly personal angle, and perhaps a bit of history. Well, The Third Pole by Mark Synnott ticks all these boxes. For those who may not know
- [Everest 2021: Special Edition - Video Interview with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/29/everest-2021-special-edition-video-interview-with-adrian-ballinger-alpenglow/) - As I covered in a recent post, Everest 2021 is coming on soon. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow Expeditions who has canceled his expedition from the Tibet side this
- [Everest 2021: Special Edition - Video Interview with Mark Gunlogson, Mountain Madness](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/12/everest-2021-special-edition-video-interview-with-mark-gunlogson-mountain-madness/) - As I covered in a recent post, Everest 2021 is coming on soon. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with Mark Gunlogson, Mountain Madness President who has canceled their activities from the Nepal side this
- [Everest 2021: More Silly Rules from Nepal as Team Enter Western Cwm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/21/everest-2021-more-silly-rules-from-nepal-as-team-enter-western-cwm/) - Climbing continues on Everest but Nepal just issued new rules as to who can climb when. Incredibly late as teams are in the midst of their expedition planning. Also, teams are starting their acclimatization rotations with some at Camp 1 in the Western Cwm. Silly Rules Nepal continues to dabble with the Everest formula even
- [Everest 2021: Interview with Everest Guide Mike Hamill on Base Camp Luxuries](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/21/everest-2021-interview-with-everest-guide-mike-hamill-on-base-camp-luxuries/) - I caught up with Everest Guide Mike Hamill owner of Climbing The Seven Summits (CTSS) live at EBC to discuss Base Camp luxuries for #Everest2021. CTSS was founded by Mike after years of serving as a lead guide for another major company. He has a loyal following of clients and has set long-term goals to be
- [Everest 2021: Avalanche Stops Climbing - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/20/everest-2021-avalanche-stops-climbing/) - UPDATE APRIL 20, 2021: Correction for #everest2021. There was no avalanche that closed the Icefall today. I confirmed directly with Mike Hamill live from EBC just now. He had part of his team go to C1 today with no issues. I apologize for the misinformation. The 2021 spring Everest season continues pretty much on
- [Author Interview: Jim Davidson - The Next Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/20/author-interview-jim-davidson-the-next-everest/) - The regular readers of my blog and social media don't need an introduction to Jim Davidson. We met in 2001 and have been great friends and climbing partners almost ever since. I consider him a mentor who has taught me a lot about ice and rock climbing, general mountaineering, and life. Recently I had the
- [Everest 2021: Interview with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Loboche](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/16/everest-2021-interview-with-everest-climber-eric-gran-from-dingboche/) - I caught up with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Lobuche. This is Eric's first trip to Nepal and he describes the journey thus far for #Everest2021. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything The Podcast on alanarnette.com You can listen to #everest2021 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast
- [Everest 2021: First Steps in the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/15/everest-2021-first-steps-in-the-icefall/) - The first few climbers have made rotations to Camp 1 while the rest of the teams at Everest Base camp are preparing to enter the Khumbu Icefall for the first time this season. The permits for Everest continue to grow, now 321 on 34 teams approaching the 219 record of 382. Lhotse has an astounding 83
- [The Next Everest by Jim Davidson: A Book Review](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/05/the-next-everest-by-jim-davidson-a-book-review/) - The regular readers of my blog and social media don't need an introduction to Jim Davidson. We met in 2001 and have been great friends and climbing partners almost ever since. I consider him a mentor who has taught me a lot about ice and rock climbing, general mountaineering, and life. Recently I had the
- [Everest 2021: Puja Before Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/14/everest-2021-puja-before-climbing/) - I was asked to summarize the Everest season thus far, my answer, "normal." The fear of quarantines, extensive testing, and chaos in Kathmandu never materialized. In fact, most people flew in and out over a couple of days, shorter than usual. Flights to Lukla were about as expected, albeit with some delays for the smoke
- [Everest 2021: Climbers to Watch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/13/everest-2021-climbers-to-watch/) - The number of permits continues to rise for Everest. Now at 290 spread across 30 teams, it appears Everest will be crowded again for this spring of 2021. Reports are coming in of low snow amounts this past winter so rockfall may be an issue, especially with so many people climbing together. We saw this
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 11](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/11/everest-2021-weekend-update-april-11/) - The Everest 2021 season is right on track with teams pouring into base camp. However, this year remains different with few trekking teams on the trails resulting in almost empty teahouses and some closed, perhaps forever. Remember that the Tibet side is closed to foreigners and I don't expect updates from the Chinese team or
- [Everest 2021: Where are They Now?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/08/everest-2021-where-are-they-now/) - The number of climbing permits granted keeps increasing. 222 permits are now in Everest aspirants' hands and 389 for all Nepal peaks for all teams this spring. With hundreds of climbers and trekkers on the trails, the Khumbu is busy, but reports are coming in saying overall it feels quiet compared to previous years. The
- [Everest 2021: Interview with Garrett Madison from Namche Bazaar](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/06/everest-2021-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-namche-bazaar/) - I caught up with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Namche Bazaar. He describes the journey thus far for #Everest2021. Also, his parents are with him on this trek, a real treat! Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything The Podcast on alanarnette.com You can listen to #everest2021 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for
- [Everest 2021: First Steps in the Khumbu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/06/everest-2021-first-steps-in-the-khumbu/) - The number of climbing permits granted keeps increasing. 167 permits are in Everest aspirants' hands and 303 for all the Nepals peaks with teams this spring. With hundreds of climbers and trekkers on the trails, the Khumbu is busy, but reports are coming in saying overall it feels quiet compared to previous years. Let's take
- [Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 4](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/04/everest-2021-weekend-update-april-4/) - The Everest 2021 season is well underway with many teams on their way to Everest Base Camp expecting to arrive around April 15. As of April 3, 138 Everest permits had been issued to foreigners. Around 300 are still expected making this a busy, but not a record season like 2019. As I've noted, the
- [Everest 2021: Flying to Lukla](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/03/everest-2021-flying-to-lukla/) - The Khumbu is starting to fill up with climbers. With now over 138 Everest permits issued, they have left Kathmandu and most flew to Lukla, the traditional start of the week-long walk to Everest Base Camp. For some, the flight to Lukla will be a highlight of their trip. As I'm noting on the team
- [Everest 2021: Nepal Removes Quarantine for Vaccinated Foreigners](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/19/everest-2021-nepal-removes-quarantine-for-vaccinated-foreigners/) - Continuing a circuitous path for visitors to navigate, Nepal now says that if a foreigner has been vaccinated they can enter Nepal not go through quarantine. This includes trekkers and those climbing mountains such as Everest. Of course, this announcement comes as travelers are leaving for Nepal with schedules that factored in a seven-day quarantine
- [Everest 2021: Welcome to Everest 2021 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/01/everest-2021-welcome-to-everest-2021-coverage/) - Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2021 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2021 and actively covered the 2020/21 Winter K2 season so let me officially welcome you. This season will be my 18th season of all-things Everest: 12 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two
- [Everest 2021: Silly Rules Season Returns from Nepal Government](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/09/everest-2021-silly-rules-season-returns-from-nepal-government/) - I had hoped that Nepal would let this spring season occur without the annual histrionics and propaganda of new rules, after all, isn't dealing with COVID enough? But, alas, the temptation was too great. It seems the photo of the line of climbers between the South Summit and Summit in 2019 cast a negative image on
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview with Mark Pattison & Jim Mora](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/11/everest-2021-video-interview-with-mark-pattison-jim-mora/) - It's not often I get to interview a former NFL player and an NFL Head Coach. In this sprawling interview with Mark Pattison and Jim Moro, we cover Mark's upcoming climb of Everest. Mark spent five years as an NFL player at the wide receiver position with the then, Los Angeles Raiders, LA Rams, and
- [Everest 2021:Teams Stake out Base Camp Sites](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/17/everest-2021teams-stake-out-base-camp-sites/) - Virus be damned, climbers and operators are in full swing to attempt Everest this spring. Several have already sent emissaries to claim their traditional spot at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side. China has closed Tibet to all foreigners for an uncertain time period. IMG, Asian Trekking, and others sent Sherpas to stake out
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview with Lukas Furtenbach of Furtenbach Adventures](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/15/everest-2021-video-interview-with-lukas-furtenbach-of-furtenbach-adventures/) - The Everest 2021 season is about a month away and operators are busy buying, packing, and preparing for a safe season. This year, only the Nepal side will be climbed since China closed their side due to COVID. I reached out to Lukas Furtenbach, of Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures to discuss the season. We covered a
- [Everest 2021: If I Were Climbing Everest in 2021](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/21/everest-2021-if-i-were-climbing-everest-in-2021/) - If I were climbing Everest in 2021, I hope that there was nothing left to be done except spend quality time with my friends and family and hope the virus doesn't take more lives than the mountain does. But for the moment, let's pretend the virus is not a factor. Climbing Everest is about the
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview with Sherpani Climbing Record Holder, Maya Sherpa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/24/everest-2021-video-interview-with-sherpani-climbing-record-holder-maya-sherpa/) - It's rare to catch Maya Sherpa for an interview but I did as she was leaving for a double 8000-meter climb of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. She holds the record for most 8000ers for a Nepali female at 6 with Everest, Lhotse, Manaslu, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, and K2. We talked about how a girl from rural Nepal
- [Everest 2021: The Other 8000ers This Spring](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/25/everest-2021-the-other-8000ers-this-spring/) - Spring in the Himalayas doesn't just mean Everest, there are 13 other 8000ers in the mix and each Spring a few see significant traffic. Let's take a look. Annapurna Starting off on the world's deadliest mountain are Pakistani climbers Sirbaz Khan, Abdul Josh, photographer Kamran Ali with expedition manager Saad Munawar. They are attempting to
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview with Ryan Waters - Everest and Polar Bears](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/26/everest-2021-video-interview-with-ryan-waters-everest-and-polar-bears/) - Who else can you discuss summiting Mt. Everest and dodging polar bears with other than Ryan Waters, of Mountain Professionals? I grabbed Ryan just before he left for Everest 2021. We talked about Everest, of course, and COVID, quarantine, and the confusion around photographs taking and sharing. But we also went into his polar trips
- [Everest 2021: Video Interview  with Dave Roskelley - The Volcanic Seven Summits and the High Point on the Moon in a Tesla](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/29/everest-2021-video-interview-with-dave-roskelley-the-volcanic-seven-summits-and-the-high-point-on-the-moon-in-a-tesla/) - As we approach the Everest 2021 season, a bit of a change of pace for today's interview. I speak with Utah resident and Chicago-born David Roskelly. We talk about the Volcanic Seven Summits and the High Point on the Moon in a Tesla. Roscoe is the only American to have climbed the Seven Summits (Messner
- [Everest 2021: Leaving Nothing Unsaid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/30/everest-2021-leaving-nothing-unsaid/) - Leaving home to climb Mt. Everest is no simple task. It's not a business trip; it's not a vacation; it's something entirely different. While it may be your dream, for those left behind, it can be something altogether different. As we approach the end of March, scores of climbers are going through this process for
- [Everest 2021: Climbers in Kathmandu and on the Trek](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/03/31/everest-2021-climbers-in-kathmandu-and-on-the-trek/) - On the last day of March 2021 climbers are streaming into Kathmandu. Some have already flown to Lukla and have started their trek to Everest Base Camp. Still, others are climbing lesser peaks like Lobuche East or Island Peak for acclimatization hoping to reduce their trips through the Khumbu Icefall by at least one rotation.
- [Everest 2021: Sights and Sounds of Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/04/02/everest-2021-sights-and-sounds-of-kathmandu/) - Arriving in Kathmandu is when many people feel their adventure begins. A city with a long history dating to 185 AD, the capital of Nepal has grown to over 2.5 million residents in the Kathmandu Valley. Sadly the streets are congested and the city has one of the worse air quality indexes in the world.
- [Everest 2018: Climbers Say Hello to Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/03/27/everest-2018-climbers-say-hello-to-kathmandu/) - The #Everest2018 season has begun! Team are arriving in Kathmandu and some are already trekking to base camp. Look for another big year on Everest and 6-8 deaths.
- [Winter Manaslu Update: Poor Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/22/winter-manaslu-update-poor-weather/) - Climbing 8000-meters peaks in winter takes a toll on climbers and teams. The Manaslu team has seen another climber quit due to weather conditions. The Laila Peak Polish team in Pakistan has given up, and sadly the missing three on K2 have been officially declared dead. Manaslu: Moro Leaves Txikon/Alvarez Simone Moro, had left Alex
- [Garrett Madison Discusses: Everest Hanging Serac, 2020 Ama Dablam, Lawsuit and Everest 2021](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/11/23/garrett-madison-discusses-everest-hanging-serac-2020-ama-dablam-lawsuit-and-everest-2021/) - Garrett Madison Interview: Rare 2020 summit in Nepal. Update on the teetering serac over the Khumbu Icefall (there is news!), Everest 2021, and update on the lawsuit.
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2021 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/10/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2021-edition/) - This will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 12 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series that's available as an e-Book. I summited Everest
- [Everest 2021: Special Edition - Video Interview with Dawa Steven Sherpa, Asian Trekking](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/18/everest-2021-special-edition-video-interview-with-dawa-steven-sherpa-asian-trekking/) - As I covered in a recent post, Everest 2021 is coming on soon. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. A few have canceled their Everest '21, but many, including Asian Trekking, are moving forward with confidence. Early reports suggest Nepal could issue well over 300 foreigner permits, high but under the record
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #8](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/07/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-8/) - Latest as of 3.30 am, Monday, February 8, 2021, - K2 Time: John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo (JP) Mohr Prieto remain missing with no trace. We are learning more about what happened at the Bottleneck directly from Ali's son, Sajid. Of note he said he and his father were climbing without supplemental oxygen but
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #7](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/06/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-7/) - Latest as of 3:00 am, Sunday, February 7, 2021, - K2 Time: John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo (JP) Mohr Prieto remain missing with no trace. First the good news, Sajid Ali Sadpara is back in Base Camp. He is one strong individual. And the not-encouraging news, a helicopter did a cursory search for the
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #6](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/05/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-6/) - Latest as of 10:30 am, February 6, 2021. First it's reported that Sajid Ali Sadpara is descending from Camp 3. That Pemba Sherpa, who was with Noel Hanna, stayed at Camp 1 and will help him down. Also that a Pakistani military helicopter will take Sherpas high on K2, exact height unknown, to launch a
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #5](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/05/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-5/) - Upfront, there is no 100% confirmed news about: John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo (JP) Mohr Prieto. JP was climbing without supplemental oxygen. There is no conformation if they summited, their current status or plans. I'll update when I have 100% confident news. They left Camp 3 for their summit push almost 30 hours earlier.
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #4](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/05/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-4/) - And it's over, but we still don't know the ending. History will show that that nine Sherpas and one Nepali first summited K2 in the winter. While others gave it their best, the harsh conditions kept most just below the top. There is a reason K2 took 23 years and stood strong as the last
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/04/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-3/) - Looks like none of the Seven Summits Treks members made the K2 summit. Snorri and team remain the only viable team for K2's winter summit, but it's very unclear as to their status. Dawa Sherpa, who is overseeing the climb from Base Camp posted: No New Summit! Our entire team safely descended back to the
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/04/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-2/) - The "Fog of Climbing." Sometimes getting precise information is difficult. John Snorri's wife now tells me John is nearing the summit and is at 8100-meters, only 500-meters from the summit. However, she is going off the data from the tracker. His GPS track is crisscrossing above Camp 3. This happens occasionally with these trackers. We
- [Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/04/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-1/) - Climbers have left Camp 3 for their summit bid, half have already turned back due to the cold and fear of frostbite. The weather window has narrowed, now higher winds moving to K2 early Saturday morning, around dawn, basically 30 hours from the time of this post. They need to get up and down now,
- [Winter K2 Update: Medical Evacuation, Climbers Start Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/04/winter-k2-update-medical-evacuation-climbers-start-summit-push/) - The few climbers who have made it high on K2 have started their summit push, late Thursday night K2 time. Another medical evacuation from K2 Base Camp, this makes three this season. Climbers are nearing the summit as the winds return on Saturday. 20+ people still on the summit push, more than a usual summer season
- [Winter K2 Update: Climbers Retreating, others Proceeding Higher](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/03/winter-k2-update-climbers-retreating-others-proceeding-higher/) - This round of almost 30 K2 climbers are split between Camps 1, 2 and 3 all aiming for a summit attempt on Friday but 7 climbers returned to BC leaving 21 still on the push. Winds are staying under 20 mph. Rockfall is taking it's toll. Winds are forecasted to return around noon on Saturday.
- [Winter K2 Update: Headed Higher](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/02/winter-k2-update-headed-higher/) - This round of 22+ K2 climbers have some at Camp 1, around 20,000-feet, others leaving Wednesday morning, all aiming for a summit attempt on Friday. Long range forecast suggest another window late next week but too early to call. Big Picture Here's the K2 summit schedule for the SST team: (all dates and times K2
- [Winter K2 Update: Threading the Needle](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/01/winter-k2-update-threading-the-needle/) - K2 Sherpas and climbers have left for their summit bid. There is a window emerging centered on February 4 and 5 ending late Saturday. I'm anticipating 20 to 30 people on this push (members and Sherpas/Pakistanis) with a 40% summit rate if the weather holds. Big Picture Here's the K2 summit schedule for the SST
- [Winter K2 Update: And They're Off! (again)](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/02/01/winter-k2-update-and-theyre-off-again/) - K2 Sherpas and climbers have left for their summit bid. There is a window emerging centered on February Feb 4 and 5 ending this weekend. This may be the time to go. Big Picture Word on the mountain is the weather starting next week will shut down summit opportunities, perhaps for the season, so there
- [Winter K2 Update:No Manaslu Visitors](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/31/winter-k2-updateno-manaslu-visitors/) - Rumors have been swirling that some of the K2 summiteers are joining forces with the Manaslu team. We now have two of the K2-Ten saying no, absolutely no. Manaslu: No K2-Ten Joining the Manaslu Climb Mingma G told me directly when I asked him if was joining the Manaslu effort: Hi Alan I am not
- [Winter K2 Update: Chat with Snorri & Manaslu Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/30/winter-k2-update-chat-with-snorri-manaslu-progress/) - K2 climbers continue to stay at Base Camp stalled by the weather but Feb 4 and 5 are looking better. I chat with John Snorri at K2 BC and route progress on Manaslu. Big Picture It's all about the weather and snow conditions. K2 continues to play tough. John Snorri tells me he expects the
- [Winter K2 Update:  Waiting on Weather, Also on Manaslu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/27/winter-k2-update-waiting-on-weather-also-on-manaslu/) - Climbers are waiting for the next weather window to open. Several forecasts converge on big winds next week, yet remain mixed on favorable conditions at the end of this week. Big Picture As we've discussed most climbers need between four to six days to safely summit and return to Base Camp. Let's look at a
- [Winter K2 Update:  Climber Recognition and Reward](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/26/winter-k2-update-climber-recognition-and-reward/) - Pakistan said it will sponsor and reward climbers. Seems everyone is at K2 Base Camp after high winds stopped a recent attempt. Several weather forecasts agree that winds will remain high for the next ten days with this Friday as a break, but it's too short for a summit push as Snorri and Team demonstrated.
- [Winter K2 Update:  Snorri & Team Back to Base](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/25/winter-k2-update-snorri-team-back-to-base/) - John Snorri's team is back at Base Camp after high winds stopped their attempt. They intend to try again in early February. Several weather forecasts agree that winds will remain high. Big Picture Sadly, there are some taking advantage of the internet to spread false information (surprise!) Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of
- [Winter K2 Update:  Snorri Summit Push Status Unknown](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/24/winter-k2-update-snorri-summit-push-status-unknown/) - Update: I don't like to report this as unverified, but a rescue is reported underway. John Snorri's team was last reported at Camp 3 around 23,760'/7200m but their Garmin GPS tracker showed them at Camp 2 at 22,110'/6700m. After the significant promotion of his and the lauded Pakistani climber Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid
- [Winter K2 Update:  Snorri Summit Push Stalled](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/24/winter-k2-update-snorri-summit-push-stalled/) - John Snorri's team is on their summit push. They planned to top out on Monday, January 25, 2021, around 9 am. But are now holding at C3 according to their home team's social media, however his GPS tracker suggests only C2. At least one person, Sajid Ali Sadpara is not using supplemental oxygen but is
- [Winter K2 Update:  New Summit Push, Ropes on K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/23/winter-k2-update-new-summit-push-ropes-on-k2/) - With this wind event apparently over (they are never really over on K2!), the climbers are preparing to go back up to either finish acclimatization rotations or for their summit bids. At least one team is leaving BC today for the summit. Also, why are the ropes left on K2, and other mountains? Big Picture
- [Winter K2 Update:  Windy](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/22/winter-k2-update-windy/) - It's windy out there! Winds at K2 Base Camp are gusting to over 60 mph, but should calm soon and next week looks amazingly good! Big Picture Not a lot to report given the winds on Friday were unbelievably strong. It appears lots of people are taking the time to evaluate their next steps. Most
- [Winter K2 Update:  Staying Warm at -40F/C](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/21/winter-k2-update-staying-warm-at-40f-c/) - There are two teams now at K2 Base Camp, Seven Summits Treks and John Snorri. Big winds at Base Camp, 40 mph on Thursday, building to 60 during Friday have everyone in tents trying to stay warm. Higher up on K2, you can double those wind speeds. I image it's pretty miserable. Another SST member
- [Winter K2 Update:  Exclusive Interview with Mingma G.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/20/winter-k2-update-exclusive-interview-with-mingma-g/) - I was able to connect with Mingma Gyalje Sherpa today as he arrived in Skardu from his K2 summit. The Pakistani government generously flew his three-person team from K2 Base Camp. He shared how the day unfolded. They left Camp 3 around 2:30 am on Saturday, January 16, 2021 in good weather. The winds began
- [Winter K2 Update:  Calm at Base Camp for a Day, Then ....](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/20/winter-k2-update-calm-at-base-camp-for-a-day-then/) - Winds over 100 mph are expected at K2 Base Camp on Friday night. Time to batten down the hatches! Another climber leaves the expedition Big Picture With a huge wind event in the forecast, the 40 some-odd climbers and support are at Base Camp double checking tent guy lines and making sure everything is tied
- [Winter K2 Update:  Oxygen Update. Next Chapter in Winter K2.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/19/winter-k2-update-oxygen-update-next-chapter-in-winter-k2/) - As the exuberance winds down for the first-ever winter summit of K2, there are still scores of climbers hoping to join the parade. While there will never be another first, or even tenth, they will have a mark on their summit card that few will ever hold and I wish them a safe climb. However,
- [Winter K2 Update: No Os Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/18/winter-k2-update-no-os-summit/) - Nim's - No Os Winter K2 Summit Nirmal Purja's posted on his website that he didn't use supplemental oxygen for his K2 summit: K2 winter was a beast of a challenge. I firmly believe that a feat of such caliber is never possible if you don’t have a purpose or if it is only aimed for
- [Another Death in the Karakorum](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/18/another-death-in-the-karakorum/) - Tragic news from the team attempting Broad Peak this winter. The body of Alex Goldfarb has been found on the nearby trekking peak, Pastore Peak. Zoltán Szlankó and Alex Goldfarb planned an ambitious winter climb of Broad Peak. It wouldn't the first summit, but it's rare and mostly unsuccessful to summit this 8000er just a few
- [Winter K2 Update: The Day After Summit and Tragedy](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/17/winter-k2-update-the-day-after-summit-and-tragedy/) - All the K2 summits climbers have safely returned to Base Camp. The winds will be harsh this week so expect the 40+ remaining climbers to take shelter. Meanwhile, Alex Goldfarb is missing on nearby Broad Peak. A search is underway. Sergi's body flown back to Skardu. Big Picture Climbing any peak in winter is risky
- [Potential Broad Peak Tragedy](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/17/potential-broad-peak-tragedy/) - After the first winter K2 summit and the tragic death of Sergi Mingote on K2, now there is a developing situation on Broad Peak. Zoltán Szlankó and Alex Goldfarb arrived at base camp and conducted an acclimatization rotation to Pastore Peak (6,209 meters / 20,365 ft.), positioned as "an easy "trekking peak" located near K2 and Broad Peak
- [Winter K2 Update: Ropes to High Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/14/winter-k2-update-a-crowded-mountain-2/) - Climbers are all over K2 pushing to get rotations in, but Saturday looks to be a perfect summit day! Teams have now established Camp 3, and the ropes are at 7600-meters/25,080-feet, a serious sign of progress. Big Picture As anticipated progress is being made but with challenges. The fixed-line to the traditional High Camp at
- [Winter K2 Update: A Crowded Mountain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/13/winter-k2-update-a-crowded-mountain/) - K2 is filled with people today, most on their second and final acclimatization rotation before a summit attempt perhaps later this month, weather dependent. The good news is that it warmed up significantly. The bad news is the warmer conditions are causing rockfall. Several climbers reported rockfall yesterday with minor to insignificant injuries. But the
- [Winter K2 Update: Climbing Resumes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/12/winter-k2-update-climbing-resumes/) - Teams are taking advantage of a two-day weather window mid-week to work on acclimatization. Big winds are forecasted to return soon. There is hope to establish camp 3 and get the ropes to Camp 4. Another climber leaves the SST team. Big Picture For the first person, and team, that summits K2 in winter (especially
- [Winter K2 Update: Determination](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/11/winter-k2-update-determination/) - The winter K2 teams are regrouping after high winds destroyed Camp 2 just above and below House Chimney. For some, the question of when winter ends comes into play, the end of February or on the equinox on March 20, 2021. Regardless, the weather continues to play games with all the climbers. A few days
- [Winter K2 Update: With C2 Destroyed, Can they do it?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/10/winter-k2-update-with-c2-destroyed-can-they-do-it/) - K2's winter Camp 2 was taken out by high winds. All the tents pitched there, many with critical gear for higher up the mountain were erased or destroyed. To be clear, these winds have swept humans off the high slopes of K2, so to scourer the mid camps is understandable. The question remains, what now.
- [Winter K2 Update: Camp 2 Destroyed. Expeditions in Jeopardy](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/10/winter-k2-update-camp-2-destroyed-expeditions-in-jeopardy/) - It's been confirmed that high winds have destroyed Camp 2 along with the tents and gear. Time to reassess for some expeditions. No injuries as the Camp was empty. Big Picture Nirmal Purja has confirmed his team's gear is gone from Camp 2, blown away by high winds. Most likely so are Mingma G's gear.
- [Winter K2 Update: Changes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/09/winter-k2-update-changes/) - Well, with over 60 people inside tents, inside tents, (double tents) there is not a lot of news from K2 as the winds howl at 35mph creating a wind chill of -40 only half-way up the Hill. There is no climbing today. Social media has a lot of "hero" and sponsor shots to pass the
- [Winter K2 Update: Quiet](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/08/winter-k2-update-quiet/) - Minga G tells me the ropes are up to 7300-meters, a bit higher than the previous estimate. However, with the big winds and everyone at Base Camp, it feels a bit academic at the moment. Big Picture All quiet from K2 BC with a difficult weather forecast. This is the money quote for the next
- [Winter K2 Update: No January 2021 Summits??](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/07/winter-k2-update-no-january-2021-summits/) - The winds continue to hit K2 and now some are feeling a bit less optimistic than even a few days ago. Big Picture It was expected, a long period of high winds combined with harsh temperatures conspire to hurt morale. Boredom is setting in with little to do while waiting for the next window. John
- [Winter K2 Update: Chillin' at Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/06/winter-k2-update-chillin-at-base-camp/) - Big winds and extremely cold temperatures have everyone at Base Camp just trying to survive. Many of the clients have been to C1, a few to C2. Thus far the highpoint for anyone is 7050-meters/23,130-feet just below traditional Camp 3. The long term weather forecast calms for low winds only one day in the next
- [Winter K2 Update: Crowded Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/05/winter-k2-update-crowded-base-camp/) - With high winds on K2, everyone is back in Base Camp waiting for the next window. The long term forecast doesn't look good for low winds. Thus far the highpoint for anyone is 7050-meters/23,130-feet just below traditional Camp 3. Big Picture In communicating with climbers on K2, they fall into different profiles. I'll focus on
- [Opinion: A New Day in America](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/06/opinion-a-new-day-in-america/) - My Opinion: A few do not represent America; it's a country of many. Today, a few performed an attack on the institutions of the American government. They failed. Driven by the demented suggestions of the current President, they justified their actions in the name of democracy yet lacked the aptitude to understand the very definition
- [Winter K2 Update: Weather Moves In](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/04/winter-k2-update-weather-moves-in-2/) - The winds have returned and are forecasted to stay strong throughout the week. That said, there are reports of climbers going up anyway. Almost everyone is back at Base Camp now, including the rope fixers who reached 7050-meters. Also, expect another team arrives next week that may shake things up. Big Picture There are four
- [Winter K2 Update: Evacuation from Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/01/winter-k2-update-evacuation-from-base-camp/) - Happy New Year, especially to the K2 climbers trying to stay warm as we enter a new year. There are some climbers above Base Camp with a day or two of reasonable winds. Conditions deteriorate Monday into Tuesday. A Sherpa team is looking at fixing the ropes to Camp 4 soon before retreating. I'm receiving
- [Winter K2 Update: Weather Moves In](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/31/winter-k2-update-weather-moves-in/) - Today, Thursday, December 31, 2020 K2 has no climbers on her flanks. Most of the aspirants are staged at Base Camp waiting for the next weather window or resting after fixing ropes to 7000-meters. Winds are high today with windchills near -60F/C. The forecast calls for a couple of low wind days over the weekend
- [Winter K2 Update: Early Season Overview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/30/winter-k2-update-early-season-overview/) - Today was the last day of predicted winds low-enough to climb high on K2 safely. The large Seven Summits Treks team is also there and resting before starting their first rotation. With a few weeks now under our harness, let's step back and see where things stand. Early Season Overview The ropes are set toToday was the last day of predicted winds low-enough to climb high. Mingma and Nirmal Purja put the fixed ropes to 7000-meters, top of the Black Pyramid. With a few weeks passed, let's see where things stand
- [Winter K2 Update: Fighting the Cold](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/29/winter-k2-update-fighting-the-cold/) - Not a lot of news from K2 this Tuesday, December 29, 2020, at 19:00 K2 time. It appears that there are three teams at C2: Mingma G, Nirmal Purja, and Snorri, and the Seven Summits Treks massive team arrived at base camp. As expected, a lot of rockfall is being reported, and it will get
- [Winter K2 Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/25/winter-k2-update/) - The big news from the week was that they fixed the ropes to the traditional Camp2. More teams arrived at base camp while others are making steady progress on the trek Mingma Gyalje Sherpa with two Sherpa teammates fixed the ropes to the traditional Camp 2 on the Abruzzi Spur. Mingma confirmed to me directly they
- [Ropes to C1 on Winter K2, Press Negativity Abounds](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/18/ropes-to-c1-on-winter-k2-press-negativity-abounds/) - Ropes to C1 on Winter K2 as more teams arrive at base camp. Negativity abounds in the press.
- [K2 Winter on the Abruzzi](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/23/k2-winter-on-the-abruzzi/) - With the ropes on K2 at Camp 2, it's easy to get excited about early progress, but this is normal for past winter expeditions. The real challenges start above Camp 2 and when wind and snow lockdown teams for days, if not weeks, on ends. Let's take a step back to review the Abruzzi Spur
- [Ropes to Camp 2 on Winter K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/22/ropes-to-camp-2-on-winter-k2/) - Huge news that the fixed lines are to Camp 2 on Winter K2. This is very early but also still low on K2. The teams are enjoying decent weather for winter. Other climbers just arrived in Pakistan or Skardu and will start their trek to BC on Christmas Eve. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa with three Sherpa, noHuge news that the fixed lines are to Camp 2 on Winter K2. The teams are enjoying decent weather for winter. Other climbers just arrived in Pakistan or Skardu and will start their trek to BC on Christmas Eve.
- [Is What's Happening on Winter K2 Wrong?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/20/is-whats-happening-on-winter-k2-wrong/) - I guess the maturity of the exploration, or more accurately the business model, for popular mountain peaks changes over time. The summit of Europe's Mont Blanc in 1786 was considered a fantastic achievement at the time. As was Everest in 1953, and even more so with Habeler and Messner's no O's summit in 1978. Today,
- [What's in a name: Everest, Chomolungma, Sagarmatha?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/14/whats-in-a-name-everest-chomolungma-sagarmatha/) - Now that China and Nepal have agreed that the revised measurement of Mount Everest is 8848.86-meters or 29,031.69-feet or 33.85 inches higher (no, the mountain didn't grow that much!), they have to agree on a name.
- [Progress on Winter K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/13/progress-on-winter-k2/) - There have been reports that Pakistan is having a mild winter, which might bode well for the K2 teams. Extreme cold is what stops many attempts. The only team currently on K2 is making progress on the extreme lower mountain fixing about 600 meters of rope
- [New Height for Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/08/new-height-for-everest/) - After a few years of work, and suspense, China and Nepal jointly announced that they have an updated measurement for Mt. Everest, and both countries agree on it. Drum roll: The new measurement is
- [Winter K2 Teams Travel to Base Camp, Doug Scott Dies](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/07/winter-k2-teams-travel-to-base-camp-doug-scott-dies/) - Climbing Legend Doug Scott Dies and more teams leave for Winter K2
- [First K2 Winter Team at Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/05/first-k2-winter-team-at-base-camp/) - The first team has arrived at K2 base camp for their winter attempt. The rest have yet to arrive in Pakistan.
- [Mingma G Sherpa to Attempt Winter K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/11/16/mingma-g-sherpa-to-attempt-winter-k2/) - K2, the only 8000er without a winter summit, will be busy this 2020/21 season. There will be a rare all Sherpa team hoping to help their community, plus 4 other teams.
- [Climbers Arrive in Nepal, Quarantined, Khumbu Closes now Reopens](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/10/25/climbers-arrive-in-nepal-quarantined-khumbu-closes-now-reopens/) - In a whirlwind of contradicting events, Thursday, Nepal closed the Khumbu region but reopened on Sunday. Climbers headed to Ama Dablam. Winter 2020/21 K2 aspirants made public
- [Summits in Nepal. First on El Cap.](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/11/11/summits-in-nepal-first-on-el-cap/) - With Nepal seeing the lowest number of teams in decades due to the COVID crisis, there are a few teams enjoying success. Summits on Ama Dablam. Plus a female first on El Cap.
- [Nepal Finally Issues Official Entry Requirements](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/10/16/nepal-finally-issues-officiall-entry-requirements/) - After months of indecision, conflicting information, and false rumors, Nepal's Ministry of Tourism finally issued rules all foreigners (non-Nepali citizens) must meet as they enter the country, apparently effective October 17, 2020. It includes a 7-day quarantine requirement.
- [8000er Summits for the Privileged. Kili Burning. Nepal Stalls](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/10/14/8000er-summits-for-the-privileged-kili-burning-nepal-stalls/) - Nepal delays foreigners, 8000er Summits for the Privileged. Kili Burning. An Icon death, and Winter K2! A round-up of the latest news.
- [Nepal Rules for Foreigners Means Most Will Want to Wait for 2021 - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/09/28/nepal-rules-for-foreigners-means-most-will-want-to-wait-for-2021/) - Nepal finalized rules for foreigners entering Nepal including they must stay quarantined for 7 days upon arrival. This alone precludes most visitors for 2020.
- [Nepal Opens to Foreigners on October 17, 2020](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/09/16/nepal-opens-to-foreigners-on-october-17-2020/) - In spite of record COVID cases and deaths to date, the Nepal government surprised their own trekking and mountaineering community announcing trekking and mountaineering groups will also be allowed to take foreign clients up to the mountains from 17 October. Media reports that Foreign Minister Pradeep Gyawali made the announcement at a media briefing. The
- [Limited Climbing in Pakistan and Nepal](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/08/31/limited-climbing-in-pakistan-and-nepal/) - A well-connected Bahrain military team has been granted an exception to climb the 8000er Manaslu in Nepal this autumn. Meanwhile, summits in Pakistan.
- [Alleged Fake Everest Summiteer to be Awarded India's Top Award - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/08/27/alleged-fake-everest-summiteer-to-be-awarded-indias-top-award/) - Many in the Indian mountaineering community are outraged that Narender Singh who allegedly faked his 2016 Everest summit is to be awarded the most prestigious climbing award by India's President Ram Nath Kovind in a virtual ceremony on August 29, 2020.
- [Limited Summer Climbing Around the World](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/08/13/limited-summer-climbing-around-the-world/) - A few teams are climbing this summer, including in Pakistan. However, many of the world's best guides are simply saying it too dangerous.
- [Interview with Jim Geiger - Record Everest Age Attempt](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/08/03/interview-with-jim-geiger-record-everest-age-attempt/) - In 2014, Jim Geiger at age 68 met an unlikely sponsor to fund his Everest dream and setting an age record. The film, "Accidental Climber" beautifully tells his story. I Interview Jim.
- [Nepal Open for Autumn, But is it Safe?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/07/21/nepal-open-for-autumn-but-is-it-safe/) - Nepal announced it will issue trekking and climbing permits for autumn, 2020 but the news is weak on details so I remain cautious.
- [Fresh Update on Climbing Around the World](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/06/02/fresh-update-on-climbing-around-the-world/) - With our Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas fictional story now over it's time to check on climbing for the rest of 2020. Spoiler alert, it doesn't look good. 
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2020 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/01/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2020-edition/) - My annual blog on "How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest" is now updated for the 2020 Spring season. Everest to be more crowded in Nepal, less so in Tibet but more expensive.
- [Will Pakistan Open for 2020 Summer Climbing?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/06/09/will-pakistan-open-for-2020-summer-climbing/) - With COVID increasing in Pakistan, the PM announced “We are opening tourism, because these three to four months are important for tourism" I asked my contacts for reaction
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Home - The End](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/29/virtual-everest-2020-home-the-end/) - The #Everest2020 fictional team is home. Thanks, to everyone who followed the story, and especially those who donated to support the climbing Sherpas. The End.
- [Virtual Everest 2020:Climbers Back in Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/28/virtual-everest-2020climbers-back-in-base-camp/) - The fictional team is back at Base Camp, recovery both physically and mentally for a grueling summit push.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Special Edition - Video Interview with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow Expeditions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/27/virtual-everest-2020-special-edition-video-interview-with-adrian-ballinger-alpenglow-expeditions/) - Virtual Everest 2020: Special Edition - Video Interview with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow Expeditions
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Climbers in Trouble on the Descent](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/27/virtual-everest-2020-climbers-in-trouble-on-the-descent/) - The summit is halfway. The team did well, but altitude, fatigue, low-oxygen levels got the best of them. A dangerous helicopter mission was launched trying to save a life
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Descending from the Summit and a Rescue](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/25/virtual-everest-2020-descending-from-the-summit-and-a-rescue/) - Our fictional team did great on Everest with 8 of 9 members summiting plus 9 Climbing Sherpas & Guide. But one member is fighting for his life with HAPE and needs a rescue
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Summit!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/25/virtual-everest-2020-summit/) - We have summits from our fictional team! Almost everyone made it but some just barely. However, as we know, the summit is only halfway.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Climbing to the Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/24/virtual-everest-2020-climbing-to-the-summit/) - The team was now on their summit push. The conditions were good, but the toll of being in the Death Zone was apparent. Some of our fictional team were in trouble.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Trapped at the South Col](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/22/virtual-everest-2020-trapped-at-the-south-col/) - The entire virtual team made it to the South Col, but winds from the cyclone unexpectedly hit them. About 100 people were in their tents, trying to survive the Death Zone.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Summit Push Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/23/virtual-everest-2020-summit-push-begins/) - The winds calmed during the extra day the virtual team spent at the South Col. They strategized how to manage climbing with 100 people.They left the Col for the summit.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Crossing the Yellow Band and Video Interview with Mike Hamill of CTSS](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/21/virtual-everest-2020-crossing-the-yellow-band-and-video-interview-with-mike-hamill-of-ctss/) - After a windy night at C3, the fictional team moved to the South Col, crossing the Yellow Band and up the Geneva Spur. The winds had calmed but then a surprise.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: A Stormy Lhotse Face](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/20/virtual-everest-2020-a-stormy-lhotse-face/) - Our 2020 Virtual Everest team, on a tiny weather window, is on their summit push. They made it to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face in horrible conditions. High winds, numbing winds made them work for it.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Camp 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/28/camp-2/) - On their active rest day at Camp 1, our fictional climbers took a short hike into the Western Cwm. Today, they move to Camp 2 at 21,000-feet. If it's sunny, it's a brutal walk, if cloudy and windy, it's a brutal hike. They want a Goldilocks experience: high clouds, light winds. In the real world,
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weather Decisions and Video Interview with Simon Lowe of Jagged Globe](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/19/virtual-everest-2020-weather-decisions-and-video-interview-with-simon-lowe-of-jagged-globe/) - The fictional Everest team receive a weather update. And, a real-world interview I did with Simon Lowe of Jagged Globe on the Everest closure, and 1996 Everest tragedy
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update April 26- Lukas Furtenbach Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/26/weekend-video-update-april-26/) - During this Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas project, I'm adding a new aspect of my coverage, a video report on most Sundays. I will recap the week and preview what we can expect coming up. Also a brief interview with the guides participating in the Support the Climbing Sherpa project. Today is
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update April 19- Gordon Janow Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/19/weekend-video-update-april-19/) - During this Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas project, I'm adding a new aspect of my coverage, a video report on most Sundays. I will recap the week and preview what we can expect coming up. Also a brief interview with the guides participating in the Support the Climbing Sherpa project. Today is
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update April 12- Guy Cotter Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/12/weekend-video-update-april-12/) - During this Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas project, I'm adding a new aspect of my coverage, a video report on most Sundays. I will recap the week and preview what we can expect coming up. Also a brief interview with the guides participating in the Support the Sherpa project. Today is with
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update April 26- Greg Vernovage  Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/03/greg-vernovage/) - During this Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas project, I'm adding a new aspect of my coverage, a video report on most Sundays. I will recap the week and preview what we can expect coming up. Also a brief interview with the guides participating in the Support the Climbing Sherpa project. Today is
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update May 10 - Garrett Madison  Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/10/virtual-everest-2020-weekend-video-update-may-10-garrett-madison-interview/) - May 10, 2020: Virtual Everest 2020 Weekend Update Video interview Madison Mountaineering's Founder, Garrett Madison. We talk K2 and Everest plus that hanging serac over the Icefall.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Special Video Interview with Tendi Sherpa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/13/virtual-everest-2020-special-video-interview-with-tendi-sherpa/) - Today I interviewed Tendi Sherpa who has 13 Everest summits. He founded the guide company TAGNepal, cofounded the gear company Himali, and is the sirdar for the guide org Climbing the Seven Summits. He lives in Kathmandu with his wife and daughter.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update May 17 - Ryan Waters  Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/17/virtual-everest-2020-weekend-video-update-may-17-ryan-waters-interview/) - May 17, 2020: Virtual Everest 2020 Weekend Update Video interview Mountain Professional's Ryan Waters. We talk Everest plus polar exploration.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Summit Push and Special Video Interview with Michael Fagin of Everest Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/18/virtual-everest-2020-summit-push-and-special-video-interview-with-michael-fagin-of-everest-weather/) - The fictional team is at C2 on their summit push but an updated weather forecast has Guide thinking he made the wrong decision. Plus a video interview with Michael Fagin of Everest Weather about real-world conditions including a developing cyclone in the Bay of Bengal.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Summit Plan](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/16/virtual-everest-2020-summit-plan/) - When the time comes to leave base camp for the summit push, emotions become explosive and scattered. Our fictional team gets ready to leave.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: View from Pumori and Doubts](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/15/virtual-everest-2020-view-from-pumori-and-doubts/) - Pumori is often used for active rest days as it's a short hike from Everest Base Camp but you can easily reach 18,200-feet. The views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse plus the Icefall and Base Camp are stunning.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Personality Clash](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/14/virtual-everest-2020-personality-clash/) - Some people make massive sacrifices to climb Everest. When things don't go the way they think it should, they become demanding, and occasionally, a bit hard to manage as our fictional members are finding out.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Summit Fever in Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/12/virtual-everest-2020-summit-fever-in-base-camp/) - Passing the time waiting for the summit weather window is always challenging as our fictional members are finding out. Our team is restless and cranky.
- [Real-World Update on Climbing Around the World](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/11/real-world-update-on-climbing-around-the-world/) - With our Virtual Everest 2020 climbers on a rest day, time to look at the real world and what the climbing world is experiencing and what to expect for the rest of 2020.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Blessing in the Khumbu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/14/on-the-trek/) - As our fictional climbers continue their sojourn towards Everest Base Camp, a few teams have arrived in Lhasa for their drive to Chinese Base Camp on the Tibetan side. Part of any Himalayan climb with Climbing Sherpas are the multiple blessings before the climbing begins. For some, these ceremonies are a mystery or even something
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Back to Base Camp and A Narrow Escape](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/07/back-to-base-camp-and-a-narrow-escape/) - The fictional team decided to go from C3 to EBC today due to impending weather. Climbing through the Icefall in late morning is never a good idea and She found out why.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Storm at Camp 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/07/virtual-everest-2020-storm-at-camp-3/) - The team experienced an extremely difficult night at Camp 3 at 26,300-feet on the Lhotse Face. The wind and snow pummeled them throughout the night forcing difficult decisions for our fictional climbers.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Climbing the Lhotse Face](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/06/climbing-the-lhotse-face/) - The team climbed the Lhotse Face to Camp3 at 23,600-feet. Split into three groups, some were fast, others not so much. And the views were stunning.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weather Day and Tough Conversations](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/24/weather-day/) - Our fictional team returned from their first trip to the Khumbu Icefall. Almost everyone did well, but there are signs of problems for a couple of climbers. Today, it snowed heavily at base camp, so it will be quiet but ... also a difficult conversation. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Settling into Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/20/virtual-everest-2020-settling-into-base-camp/) - Arriving at Everest Base Camp, on either side, is exciting. In Tibet, it's a bit calmer because you drive in. In Nepal, it's the end of a week-long trek. Either way, it's a sight not to be believed by our fictional climbers. A small city of over 1,000 people in Nepal, about half that or
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Puja at Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/21/virtual-everest-2020-puja-at-base-camp/) - Before climbing begins, the Sherpas perform a puja ceremony. Usually, a Buddhist Lama treks in from a nearby monastery the night before. If at a big camp like Everest, he will perform several ceremonies during the same day. If the camp is too far away from a monastery, for example, on K2, then one of
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Back in Base Camp - First Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/09/virtual-everest-2020-back-in-base-camp-first-summits/) - The fictional team returned from Camp 3 at 23,600-feet on the Lhotse Face and are now at base camp. The big news was a Japanese team of 20 summited overnight. Now weather watch begins for our climbers.
- [Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/02/virtual-everest-2020-support-the-sherpas/) - Welcome to the kick-off of Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas. As regular readers of my blog know due to fears over the Coronavirus, aka COVID-19, Nepal closed all climbing, including Everest, for the spring 2020 season. China, through the Tibet Mountaineering Association, closed all their mountains to foreigners, Chinese nationals will be allowed
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Doubts at Camp 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/05/virtual-everest-2020-doubts-at-camp-2/) - With better weather, our Virtual Everest 2020 fictional team returned to Camp 2 for their rotation to overnight at C3, and get their ticket to the top. But some members are having doubts.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Base Camp Tour](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/04/base-camp-tour/) - The good weather couldn't last forever and it came with a vengeance today keeping everyone trapped wherever they were - base or high camps. Dutch took a video tour of Everest Base Camp before the storm. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide
- [Everest 2011 Final Expediton Report](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/06/09/everest-2011-final-expediton-report/) - Everest 2011 is over. This was the third climb of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. In my normal tradition, I have written a complete trip report. But this one is a bit different. I wanted to keep my summit in the context of the goal thus the report provides a bit
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Base Camp Life and Summit Schedules](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/01/base-camp-life-2/) - When will we summit? A question asked a thousand times during an expedition. The answer is more complicated that it appears, and also, reveals a lot about the team dynamics. Our fictional team discuss plans over dinner. In the real world, Mingma G posted that the "Chinese Everest team climbing on the Tibet side, has
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Difficult Times](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/05/01/difficult-times/) - It happens to almost everyone, at some point on a long expedition, the body revolts. The pain begins, the cough gets harder and then you address it. Will the drugs work? Need more rest? Go home. Difficult times for our virtual Everest 2020 team. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Sherpas at C2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/30/sherpas-at-c2/) - Living for the season at 21,000-feet, the Cooks, are the backbone of any Everest expedition along with the Climbing Sherpas. Our fictional team is busy creating red blood cells as they spend another night at C2. Meanwhile in the real world, China Daily is live-streaming a video of Everest from the Tibet side using the
- [Virtual Everest 2020: In the Western Cwm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/27/in-the-western-cwm/) - The Western Cwm is known as the valley of silence. But it could be called a microwave oven. The icy walls that define the valley reflect the harsh rays of the sun creating an almost unbearable environment. But just when it gets too hot, it gets too cold. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Acclimatization at C2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/29/acclimatization-at-c2/) - Now at Camp 2, 21,000-feet, the team begins to adjust to the extreme altitude. There is no way to avoid acclimatizing if you want to summit Everest, almost 8,000 feet higher. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide companies. Our objective is to
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/06/virtual-everest-2020-kathmandu/) - Our fictional climbers have arrived in Kathmandu for their spring 2020 Everest attempt. In the real world, conditions at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side are pretty good. The temperature is 28F with an occasional snow shower. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several
- [Virtual Everest 2020: The First Team Dinner](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/09/virtual-everest-2020-the-first-team-dinner/) - One of the most interesting times of an expedition is when the entire team meets for the first time. You don't know what to expect, but you do expect a wide range of personalities. Will everyone get along? Who do you want to hang with and who do you want to avoid? Virtual Everest 2020
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Everest View](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/13/everest-view/) - One of the highlights for both climbers and trekkers, even if this is your first or twenty-first visit to Namche is the hike to the Everest View Hotel and the unparalleled views of the Himalaya. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and many other high peaks serve as the reward for the strenuous hike. The hotel
- [Everest/Lhotse 2016: Into the Cwm for First Rotation](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/04/24/everestlhotse-2016-cwm-first-rotation/) - We will leave at 1:00 am for our acclimatization rotation to C1 and C2 in the Western Cwm. #everest2016 continues on schedule.
- [Everest 2013: Discussion](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/30/everest-2013-discussion/) - As an experiment, I have created this page for those who would like to have a civil discussion on Everest items.
- [Everest 2018: The Risks of Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/04/26/everest-2018-the-risks-of-everest/) - Two Sherpas are being treated after a serac fell on the route in the Khumbu Icefall. Snow on both side of #Everest2018 have slowed progress.
- [Virtual Everest 2020:  First Steps in the Khumbu Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/23/virtual-everest-2020-first-steps-in-the-khumbu-icefall/) - The first trip into the Khumbu Icefall can be shocking. It starts steeper than thought, has more ups and downs than advertised and when you see that first ladder, second thoughts are common. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide companies. Our objective is to entertain
- [Virtual Everest 2020:  Climbing to Camp 1, and 5 Years Later](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/25/virtual-everest-2020-climbing-to-camp-1/) - With an introduction to the Khumbu Icefall completed for our fictional team, now they return for a rotation to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. They are treated to magnificent views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. It is magical. On a personal note, I (Alan) was at Camp 2 on April 25, 2015,
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Flying at the Summit of Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/04/flying-at-the-summit-of-everest/) - Our Everest 2020 climbers are on their way this early April. A few teams are already trekking the Khumbu to Everest Base Camp while those climbing from the Tibet side are on the road. Zhangmu, a 6-hour drive from Kathmandu, used to be the border crossing from Nepal into Tibet, but after the 2015 earthquake,
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Leaving Home](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/03/virtual-everest-2020-leaving-home-2/) - The end of March and beginning of April is an exciting time for Everest aspirants. Their duffle bags are packed, plane reservations confirmed, and training completed. All that's left is to get to Kathmandu or Lhasa. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide companies. Our
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Hello Kathmandu!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/05/hello-kathmandu/) - Arriving in Kathmandu for an Everest attempt is surreal, especially if it's your first time there. You can be anxious about meeting your teammates, adjusting to a new culture that will be home for two months, the new food, and more. While this story is fictional, there are real people climbing Everest in 2020. A
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Weekend Video Update April 5](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/05/weekend-video-update-april-5/) - During this Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas project, I'm adding a new aspect of my coverage, a video report on most Sundays. I will recap the week and preview what we can expect coming up. If you have a question or topic you want to be addressed, let me know. Virtual Everest
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Teams on the Move](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/25/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-teams-on-the-move/) - One is going for the summit and one is doing laps on Everest. We will know at the end of this week if Everest will see a winter summit this season.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Exploring Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/07/virtual-everest-2020-exploring-kathmandu/) - With all the Mount Everest Guide climbers in Kathmandu for their spring 2020 Everest attempt, the process of getting to know one another begins. But first a tour of Kathmandu. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide companies. Our objective is to entertain
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Lukla Drama](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/10/virtual-everest-2020-lukla-drama/) - Our fictitious Everest climbers and trekkers are scheduled to fly to Lukla today. Known as one of the world's most dangerous airports, it's a time of high anxiety. There have been seven crashes since 2000 killing over 50 passengers and crew. However, to keep these tragedies in perspective, there are thousands of passengers safely flown each year
- [Virtual Everest 2020: The Trek Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/11/virtual-everest-2020-the-trek-begins/) - After successfully flying to Lukla, the Mount Everest Guides' climbers and trekkers completed the first leg to Phakding for the night. Today our fictitious team will take on the infamous Namche Hill. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide companies. Our objective is
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Leaving the Trees](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/15/virtual-everest-2020-leaving-the-trees/) - The fictional team is getting closer to Everest Base Camp. Now on their way from Deboche to Dingboche for two nights, then to Lobuche and Gorak Shep where the trekkers will get their "Everest," the 18,514-foot peak, Kala Patar. They should be at Everest Base Camp at the end of this week. Virtual Everest 2020
- [Virtual Everest 2020: Remembering](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/16/virtual-everest-2020/) - One of the most poignant moments on the trek to Everest Base Camp is at Duhgla Pass in an area known as Chukla Lare. More than 50 rock chortons stand silently honoring those who have lost their lives on Everest, mostly for the Climbing Sherpas. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a
- [Virtual Everest 2020: The Trekker's Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/17/the-trekkers-summit/) - Kala Patar at 18,209-feet serves as the highest point most trekkers will ever reach. Everest Base Camp is about 17,500-feet. So when the team summits Kala Patar, many consider it their "Everest." Our fictional team arrives at Everest Base Camp tomorrow. Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas is a joint project of Alan
- [Virtual Everest 2020: April 18, Honoring the Fallen](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/18/honoring-the-fallen/) - It was one year ago today that a hanging wall of ice fell onto the Khumbu Icefall, the gateway to the south side of Mt. Everest, killing 16 mountain workers waiting for a ladder to be repaired that crossed a deep crevasse.
- [Virtual Everest 2020: It Takes a Village](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/04/22/virtual-everest-2020-it-takes-a-village/) - Is mountaineering an individual or a team sport? Can you really climb Everest, "solo?" Why are there 1,000 people at Nepal's Everest Base Camp? Does it really take that many people when less than 300 foreigners summited? Our fictional team from Mount Everest Guides takes on these questions over dinner after a training day at
- [Everest Base Camp - Himex Style](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/01/16/everest-base-camp-himex-style/) - I've been in many base camps but I knew I was somewhere special when I was told "… and this is our garbage tent." Welcome to Everest Base Camp, Russell Brice style. In 2011 while climbing Everest, I spent the afternoon with Brice getting to know this man and how he runs his expedition base
- [Advanced Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/09/15/advanced-base-camp/) - The snow gently fell on my tent as I quickly crawled in after dinner. Off with the down jacket, then the fleece jacket and next the polypro top. On with the clean soft wool top. Now, off with the down pants and the trekking pants and the dusty trekking socks. On with my cherished merino
- [Everest 2020: Team Locations and Headlines](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/24/everest-2020-team-locations-and-headlines/) - Follow Virtual Everest 2020 - Support the Climbing Sherpas starting April 2, 2020 LATEST HEADLINE 2020 Season Cancelled due to Coronavirus Welcome to the 2020 edition of Alan Arnette's annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward
- [Everest 2020: Was it Correct to Close Everest?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/12/everest-2020-was-it-correct-to-close-everest/) - Now that word is spreading that both Nepal and China have closed the 2020 Spring Everest was the correct decision. For me, the answer is clearly yes.
- [Update on Coronavirus Impact on 2020 Spring Everest Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/28/update-on-coronavirus-impact-on-2020-spring-everest-season/) - A very fluid situation around Everest and the Coronavirus. After speaking with operators and officials, both sides to be open but permits cut in half. Already many cancellations.
- [Nepal Begins to Address Risky Visitors due to Coronavirus Virus](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/02/nepal-begins-to-restrict-visitors-due-to-coronavirus-virus/) - Nepali officials are adding visa steps for travelers from five countries experiencing the highest levels of the Coronavirus.
- [Everest 2020: A Month Go Checklist](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/09/everest-2020-a-month-go-checklist/) - With Everest climbers making last-minute preparations, I provide suggestions on where to focus and what to say to whom. We are getting closer!
- [Everest 2020: China Closes Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/11/everest-2020-china-closes-everest/) - China closes its side of Everest. Nepal remains open but expands visa restriction rules.
- [Everest 2020: Nepal Joins China and Closes Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/12/everest-2020-nepal-joins-china-and-closes-everest/) - Nepal has joined China in closing the spring climbing season on all mountains, including on Everest citing Covid-19 aka the Coronavirus.
- [Climbers wait out the Virus - Denali now Closed](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/18/climbers-wait-out-the-virus/) - Planning a big climb has a lead time of months, not weeks, thus now is the time to be planning climbs for the second half of 2020 or even into 2021 as we wait out the Coronavirus.
- [Three Questions for Jost Kobuschh's Winter Everest West Ridge Attempt](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/03/07/three-questions-for-jost-kobuschhs-winter-everest-west-ridge-attempt/) - While Jost Kobuschh didn't summit Everest this winter by the West Ridge, he did an amazing job. I asked him 3 questions about his effort.
- [Everest 2015: Getting in the Everest Mindset](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/03/13/everest-2015-getting-in-the-everest-mindset/) - I learned from my previous climbs that preparing your mind was as critical as preparing your body. You are going to climb Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world.
- [Everest 2013: Weekend Update April 28 - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/28/everest-2013-weekend-update-april-28/) - I summarize the last week of April with uncertain weather and difficulty in establishing a route up the Lhotse Face. Also a look at the use of oxygen.
- [Everest 2013: Summit Wave 8 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/23/everest-2013-wave-8-recap/) - Miura Yiuchiro at 80 year-old summits, Dave Hahn for the 15th time and more. Everest 2013 winds down
- [Everest 2013: Weekend Update May 26](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/26/everest-2013-weekend-update-may-26/) - This past week was about as good as it gets on Everest. The winds were manageable, the crowds tolerable and the summits plenty.There were over 300 summits.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/09/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-everest/) - Everest 2019/20 Winter climbs: Jost Kobusch's solo and Alex Txikon's Southeast ridge. Plus Simon Moro and Tamara Lunger Gasherbrum I/II Traverse.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I/II](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/09/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-k2-broad-peak-gasherbrum-i-ii/) - With winter now here, its time to review the Himalayan action for the next few months. There are expeditions planned for K2, Everest, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums plus a few other peaks. I'll cover Everest and K2 in two separate posts. This is for K2 and Broad Peak. See this post for Everest. K2
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Moving or Delayed](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/16/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-moving-or-delayed/) - 2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Moving or Delayed. As we hit mid-December, teams are on the move, in most cases, towards their winter Himalayan peaks.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: At Everest Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/22/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-at-everest-base-camp/) - December 21, the winter solstice, is considered the beginning of winter, so let the race begin. Jost is at Everest BC, others are trekking to their BCs in Pakistan.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: K2 Permit Issued](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/24/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-k2-permit-issued/) - Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's Imagine Nepal effort has been cleared to January due to a lack of funds. They are back from Acocangua and will leave for Pakistan any day now.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest Climb Has Begun](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/29/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-everest-climb-has-begun/) - Himalayan 8000s Winter Update: A few teams at base camp but no significant progress up the Hills.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Multiple Climbs Begin](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/02/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-everest-climb-has-begun-2/) - The winter climbing season of 2019/20: Teams arriving at Base Camps and already acclimatizing. There are expeditions planned for K2, Everest, Broad Peak, Gasherbrums
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest West Ridge, No O's on K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/05/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-multiple-climbs-begin/) - For the first time since 1979, there will be an attempt on a rarely climbed Everest route. K2 climbers arrive in Pakistan for a no O's K2 Winter attempt and progress on Broad Peak.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Poor Karakorum Weather, Everest WR Video](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/08/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-poor-karakorum-weather-everest-wr-video/) - Poor weather has hampered progress on Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums meanwhile we get a good look at the Everest West Ridge route.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Cold, Tough, Slow but Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/11/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-cold-tough-slow-but-progress/) - Taking advantage of a small window of good weather progress was made on a few of the Himalayan peaks this week. More bad weather is expected later this weekend.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Winds Stall Climbers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/13/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-cold-tough-slow-but-progress-2/) - Big winds have returned to Everest and the Karakorum forcing teams to remain at base camp waiting out the storm. Summit winds are over 150 mph/240kmh, a category 5 hurricane.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Cold Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/17/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-cold-progress/) - It's cold in the Himalaya! Teams are fighting the conditions yet are making as good of progress as you might expect for the middle of winter. Camp 2 reached on Broad Peak.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Moving Higher!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/18/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-moving-higher/) - Lots of news this Saturday: Excellent progress on Gasherbrum and Broad Peak and Jost is on the move on Everest. Multiple deaths on Annapurna Circuit.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Moro Escapes Death & Ends Gasherbrum Attempt](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/20/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-moro-escapes-death-ends-gasherbrum-attempt/) - Simone Moro Escapes Death & Ends Gasherbrum Attempt
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Arriving at K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/21/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-arriving-at-k2/) - K2 winter team almost at BC. Excellent progress on Ama Dablam, Broad Peak Jost on Everest back at BC after overnighting on the Lho La. Summits on Antarctica volcano Mt Sidely.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Progress in Bad Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/23/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-arriving-at-k2-2/) - Quiet across most of the Himalaya today. Progress on Ama Dablam. Broad Peak team pushing hard. K2 team at BC, will start climbing in a few days. Jost at EBC. Simone Moro interview
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Summit!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/25/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-summit/) - The first Himalayan summits of this winter season were on Ama Dablam while poor weather bogs down the other climbs. Ama Dablam - Summit! Alex Txikon and the team summited Ama Dablam. They will now move to Everest for an attempt on the standard SE Ridge route. His team includes Spaniard Oscar Cardo, Jonatan García and Nepalese
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Update: Jost on the Move on Everest, Urubko/Bowie on Broad Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/27/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-bad-weather/) - No progress on Everest or Broad Peak due to poor weather but plans to reach Camp 2 on K2. 
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Injury and Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/01/30/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs/) - The weather on Everest is making for slow progress but it's better in the Karakorum where the Broad Peak team is hoping to summit soon.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Summit Push Called Off](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/01/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-summit-push-called-off/) - Broad Peak summit push stopped due to strong winds, crevasse. Urubko overnighted in a crevasse during a raging storm. On Everest Txikon tagged C1 and Jost waits out injury recovery
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Incident in Khumbu Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/02/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-incident-in-khumbu-icefall/) - Climber falls through snow bridge in Khumbu Icefall, His expedition is over. The route to C2 established on K2. Nice 2019 paragliding video from Broad Peak/K2
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: It's Cold Up there!!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/04/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-its-cold-up-there/) - Txikon and team at C1 on Everest. Jost's injury improves. Urubko retreats to Baltoro glacier camp before Broad Peak final push. 4x4 sets an altitude record of 6,694 meters!
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs:K2 Winter OVER, Broad Peak Summit Push Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/05/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbsk2-winter-over-broad-peak-summit-push-underway/) - Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's team ended K2 winter effort and flew back to Askole. The reasons remain vague. Denis Urubko and Don Bowie begin Broad Peak summit push. Txikon at Everest C2
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Update on Everest Hanging Serac](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/05/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-update-on-everest-hanging-serac/) - Last Autumn, teams abandoned their Everest climbs fearing a teetering serac above the Khumbu Icefall. So the big question has been, is it still there? We now know.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Broad Peak Summit Push Stopped](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/06/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-broad-peak-summit-push-stopped/) - The Karakorum continues to play tough. Yesterday the only K2 team ended their effort and today the Broad Peak team halted their summit push but suggest they will try again.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Weekend Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/07/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-weekend-update/) - Now firmly in February, the winter clock is ticking louder. Injuries and weather are taking their toll on the climbers. No 8000er summits, yet. Only 3 teams remain on the 8000ers.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Only A Few Remain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/10/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-only-a-few-remain/) - Cold has hampered the remaining expeditions, two on Everest and one on Broad peak. However, this week looks better for Everest but still mind-numbing wind chills on BP.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Wind Stops Everyone](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/12/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-wind-stops-everyone/) - The good news is it is a bit warmer on both Everest & Broad Peak, the bad news, it's too windy to climb. Time is running out for Urbuko on Broad Peak. Porters coming on February 20
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Warming Conditions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/11/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-warming-conditions/) - The cold is easing up a bit allowing more movement on Everest. No word from Denis Urubko on Broad Peak.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs:What Went Wrong on K2?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/14/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbswhat-went-wrong-on-k2/) - The only team attempting the last 8000er without a winter summit, K2, abandoned their effort on Feb 5. Now we get the whole story on what happened directly from Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Fighting the Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/13/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-fighting-the-weather/) - Jost was blown back to EBC after a tough night on the Lho La. Txikon plans to go higher this weekend. Urbuko wants to get Broad Peak on February 20/21.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Launch Broad Peak Summit Push tomorrow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/15/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-urubko-launch-broad-peak-summit-push-tomorrow/) - Broad Peak weather forecast changed so Urbuko will leave for the C3 Sunday, February 16 aiming to top out on the 17th. He's alone with no comms so we won't have any updates.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Ends Broad Peak Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/17/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-urubko-ends-broad-peak-summit-push/) - Denis Urbuko ended his winter Broad Peak effort reaching 7000m, and hit by an avalanche. Spaniard Oscar Cardo on Alex Txikon's team evacuated from Everest C2 with AMS. K2 squabble
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Only Two Left](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/21/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-only-two-left/) - The remaining two winter 8000ers teams are struggling. Both suggest only one more attempt. Danger signs for the Everest Spring season. Denis Urbuko ended his 8000er career.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Final Winter Summit Pushes, Surprise New Team](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/23/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-final-winter-summit-pushes/) - Both winter Everest teams are starting their final pushes. The wildcard, will be weather and this week's forecast has a few short windows, but nothing ideal, especially in winter.
- [2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Over for All](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/27/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-over-for-all/) - And then there were none. Alex Txikon ended his effort as did Jost Kobuschh. Everest in winter is just too difficult this year. There were no winter summits on the four 8000ers attempted this winter: Everest, K2, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum I/II.
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 27 - It's Not About the Crowds](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/26/everest-2019-weekend-update-may-27-its-not-about-the-crowds/) - A successful and deadly week on #Everest2019. Hundreds of summits and tens of deaths. Were crowds to blame?
- [Everest 2020: Welcome to Everest 2020 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/24/everest-2020-welcome-to-everest-2020-coverage/) - Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2020 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2020 and am actively covering the current winter Everest attempts so let me officially welcome you. This will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 13 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years
- [Everest 2019: New Route Attempt on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/04/everest-2019-new-route-attempt-on-everest/) - If successful this spring, Cory Richards and Esteban "Topo" Mena, will put up the first new route on Everest in 10 years. An interview with Cory on their plans.
- [Everest 2013: Interview with David Tait, Mr. Traverse is Back](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/02/13/everest-2013-interview-with-david-tait-mr-traverse-is-back/) - David Tait gained fame on the Discovery Channel’s “Everest Beyond the Limits” series a few years ago. He also set himself apart from other Everest climbers with a traverse (N-S) in 2009 and a summit with the rope fixers in 2010. He is back for 2013 with a secret mission. All he will say at this point is that it involves "stamina". I interviewed David last week and he talks about something much more important than Everest.
- [Alzheimer's Tsunami Growing at Alarming Rate](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/03/15/alzheimers-tsunami-growing-at-alarming-rate/) - The Alzheimer's Association's annual look at the prevalence of the disease and impact has resulted in startling numbers for 2012. The Mayo Clinic defines AD as: Alzheimer's disease causes brain changes that gradually get worse. It's the most common cause of dementia — a group of brain disorders that cause progressive loss of intellectual and
- [A Request from Alan Arnette](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/04/27/a-request-from-alan-arnette-2/) - As you know, I only cover Everest each year to raise awareness and research money to cure Alzheimer's. Today, I am asking you to vote to help. I am not asking for money, just your vote. It is easy and if you appreciate what I am doing on my site you will help. Alzheimer's took
- [Island Peak: Summit and $25,000++ for Alzheimer's!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/10/21/island-peak-summit-and-25000-for-alzheimers/) - It's not over but YOU donated over $25K to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. Kami and I summited Island Peak - it was harder than I expected.
- [Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/09/25/update-from-cathy/) - I spoke to Alan this morning (Monday) and he has asked me to post an update since he is unable to send out any dispatches. There is a problem with the communication equipment at advanced base camp and they are not sure when it will get fixed. They are unable to send or receive any
- [I am proud to be called a Climber](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/05/21/proud-called-climber/) - Should I stop climbing? Three years ago today, I stood on the summit of Everest with Kami Sherpa. This year 17 Sherpa lost their lives.
- [The End of Innocence: 26 Dead in Connecticut](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/12/16/the-end-of-innocence-26-dead-in-connecitiut/) - Standing at the curb, look annoyed by the canceled shuttle service from the hotel to LAX, I reminisced about the wonderful time we enjoyed at Disneyland the past few days. As I glanced at my iPhone to catch up on the news, I saw the headline “Shooting at Connecticut School”. Not again I thought and
- [Kosciuszko Summit: Brief Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/10/27/kosciuszko-summit-brief-recap/) - It may have been the lowest, but it was certainly worth the effort. Mount Kosciuszko was easy and fun plus a wonderful way to end my current 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's: Memories are Everything project. Only three days after summiting Carstensz Pyramid, here I flew to Sydney and then drove to the ski resort
- [The Ups and Downs of Denali](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/07/12/the-ups-and-downs-of-denali/) - The weather changed with the certainty of a Lindsey Lohane probation violation. Lying in our tent like sardines, uncomfortable both physically and mentally; the sudden quietness brought on by the lack of driving snow and wind caused everyone at High Camp to stick our heads out of our tents like prairie dogs after a thunderstorm.
- [Everest Summit Recap - more than a summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/05/22/everest-summit-recap-more-than-a-summit/) - I stood on the summit of Mount Everest at 5:00 AM, malady May 21, 2011. To say this event had a personal meaning is an understatement. To say it had a broader meaning leaves much to be explained. I will write a complete trip report in my usual standard once I get home but for
- [The Western Cwm: Best and Worst of Times](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/04/28/the-western-cwm-and-worst-of-times/) - "It was the of time, it was the worst of times" so started The Tale of Two Cities. The same might be said of my last 5 nights in the Western Cwm. As I wrote in my last dispatch from Camp 1, I arrived in good time for me, felt great and was once again
- [A Month with a Mac](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2009/12/29/a-month-with-a-mac/) - It has been about a month since we replaced our Windows PCs with iMacs so I thought a quick report was in order. I am glad to report - all is fine. As I posted on November 19, we replaced an HP and Dell PC running Windows XP with two iMacs. The installation and data
- [HipCast is Out to Lunch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/06/19/hipcast-is-out-to-lunch/) - I think HipCast, medicine which hosts Alan's audio blogs, view is down. I'm sorry that you can't listen to Alan's two latest blog entries. I am pretty sure the problem is with HipCast as the links to the previous blogs are also not working. I can't even connect to their web site. Also, Alan has
- [Stuck at 14,200'](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/06/26/stuck-at-14200/) - I spoke to Alan earlier today. The team is still holding out at the 14, 200' camp due to bad weather. Hopefully, tomorrow they will be able to move higher up the mountain to either the 16,200' or 17,200' camp. Once at one of these camps, they might not take the usual rest day and
- [Resending Alan's Last Dispatch of September 25 – The Waiting Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/09/25/resending-alans-last-dispatch-of-september-25-the-waiting-begins/) - There was an error in the link for Alan's latest dispatch. I have been able to go in and grab it and get it posted. You will just need to look to the right where there is a blue box called ABOUT and click on the underlined - The Waiting Begins. That should take you
- [2007 Year-End Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/12/13/2007-year-end-update/) - With the holidays upon us, I wanted to send out a greeting along with a Road Back to Mount Everest: Memories are Everything update. I leave for Aconcagua in a couple of weeks. This will be my second climb of the highest mountain outside the Himalayas. I summited back in 2005. I will be going
- [Aconcagua  – The Stone Sentinel](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/12/27/aconcagua-the-stone-sentinel/) - The snow was blowing sideways as the temperature flirted with 10 F. The drifts were small but the ground was covered with a lite blanket of white. I stepped gingerly outside my protection to find it icy and dangerous. With that I scurried back into the garage and into the car for the drive to
- [Alan summits Aconcagua](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/01/08/alan-summits-aconcagua/) - Alan reports that the team made the summit (22, 841') this morning at 11:45 a.m. local time where it is currently very cold and windy. His sat phone battery is low so he will be unable to leave an audio dispatch at this time. Congratulations to the team on a successful summit! Remember...Memories are Everything
- [In Mexico City](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/01/21/in-mexico-city/) - We all arrived in various states into Mexico City last night and have met Dave at the hotel. We leave in a few hours for Tlachichuca. Mexico City is as smoggy as advertised. Here is a look out my hotel window! I am glad we are leaving for the countryside soon. Climb On! This is
- [3 Weeks to Everest 2008!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/03/06/3-weeks-to-everest-2008/) - Three weeks, six hours, four minutes and … well you get the idea! I can’t believe that after a year of planning, training and dreaming it is almost time to leave for Kathmandu. After 17 or more expeditions, I have everything I need so there will be only a few last minute s. I will
- [Summit Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/05/20/summit-update/) - Unfortunately, Alan has had to turn around at the Balcony. He was extremely tired and decided to return to Camp 4. He is obviously very disappointed and wants everyone to know that he gave it his shot. When I spoke to him he was safely back in camp. Alan wishes to thank everyone for their
- [Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics - Part 4](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2008/06/22/everest-2008-mountain-of-politics-part-4/) - Well the Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything has come to an end. Thanks to your generosity, salve about $25, s 000 was donated to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund - well short of my $100, 000 goal. When I started this journey in January 2007, I set two goals: raise money and awareness
- [Will the Coronavirus Impact Spring Everest Season?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/13/will-the-coronavirus-impact-spring-everest-season/) - Will China close their three 8000ers: Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma this spring due to the coronavirus? Other sports events are being canceled.
- [Thank You & Welcome to 2020!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/31/thank-you-welcome-to-2020/) - To all my readers and followers, all my best for the new decade along with a few stats from my blog plus thoughts on what trends might see in the climbing world in the 2020s.
- [New Everest Rules Closer - Deja Vu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/12/16/new-everest-rules-closer-deja-vu/) - Stop me if you've heard this before. Nepal's Ministry of Tourism made another Everest new rules announcement including medical history, required insurance and training.
- [Interview with Nabin Trital of Expedition Himalaya](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/11/25/interview-with-navin-trital-of-expedition-himalaya/) - Interview with Nepali guide company Expedition Himalaya and Navin Trital for his thoughts on Nepal's new Everest rules announcements and prices increase from China.
- [Why Did I Turn Back on my Last Climb?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/11/18/why-did-i-turn-back-on-my-last-climb/) - Why Did I Turn Back on my Last Climb? On the next training or big climb, take inventory of these 4 steps when you are in trouble.
- [Everest 2014: Nothing Left Unsaid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/03/07/everest-2014-nothing-left-unsaid/) - What is it like to see your spouse, your friend, leave for a two month Everest expedition? An essay.
- [Project Possible: SUCCESS on Shishapangma for #14!!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/28/project-possible-update-success-on-shishapangma/) - Nirmal Purja and the team completed his summits of the 14 peaks over 8,000-meters in 190 days. Nirmal Purja posted they made the summit of Shishapangma at 8:58 am hrs local time.
- [HIMALI: A Gear Company with Great Ideas and Products](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/28/himali-a-gear-company-with-great-ideas-and-products/) - Just 5 years-old, Boulder, Colorado-based HIMALI is setting new standards with great quality and value down jackets. Meet the founders Dave Schaeffer and Tendi Sherpa in this interview.
- [Project Possible Update: Shishapangma Summit Bid Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/28/project-possible-update-shishapangma-summit-bid-underway/) - Nirmal Purja and team are fighting high winds and tough route finding on their Shishapangma summit push hoping for the last of the fourteen 8000m peaks he summited in 190 days.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Carlos, 80, Ends Dhaulagiri Attempt; Season Wrap-Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/11/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-carlos-80-ends-dhaulagiri-attempt-season-wrap-up/) - 80 y/o Carlos Soria Fontán ended his 10th attempt on Dhaulagiri due to high winds. No Shishapangma permit yet for Nirmal Purja. Autumn wrap-up as we look to winter Everest and K2 climbs
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Climbers Abandon Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/06/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-last-climbers-abandon-everest/) - Nirmal Purja confirmed his last climb of his Project Possible and the remaining teams on Everest leave due to the end of the season and serac dangers. Everest - And Then There Were None Madison Mountaineering and Kilian Jornet both fearing the devasting effect of being hit by the trailer sized ice serac a few thousand feet
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Determined Climbers Not Giving Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/02/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-determined-climbers-not-giving-up-2/) - Looks like everyone is off Cho Oyu by the Chinese imposed October 1 deadline. Almost everyone is finished with Manaslu and the Dhaulagiri climbers will either summit or turn back over the next couple of days fighting deep snow conditions. And on Everest, serac watch continues for a determined few. More flight problems for Lukla.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: New Everest Serac Picture](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/05/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-new-everest-serac-picture-more-on-manaslu/) - Only Russians on Manaslu. Disaster nearly avoided on Dhaulagiri climbers and a new picture of the hanging serac over the Everest Khumbu Icefall. Update on Everest solo Winter bid.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Dhaulagiri Summits!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/10/03/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-dhaulagiri-summits/) - Extremely determined Dhaulagiri climbers made the summit this morning. No movement on Everest and climbs have ended on Manaslu, Cho Oyu.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Cho Oyu Summits as China Closes Tibet to Foreigners](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/30/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-last-cho-oyu-summits-as-china-closes-tibet-to-foreigners/) - With the autumn Himalaya climbing season winding down many are following 80 y/o Carlos Soria Fontán on Dhaulagiri, Kilian Jornet on Everest and of course, the giant hanging serac
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Another Team Abandons Autumn Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/29/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-another-team-abandons-autumn-everest/) - The giant serac remains above the Khumbu Icefall forcing another team to leave Everest. Only two teams remain including Jornet. Final pushes on Manaslu and Dhaulagiri begin.
- [Turning 60 - A Look Back](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/07/26/turning-60-a-look-back/) - As I turn 60 today, I look back at my life, the people, the jobs, the values - all with gratitude.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Summit Mass!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/26/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-manaslu-summit-mass/) - Manaslu has taken center stage with over 150 summits while climbers are on hold on Dhaulagiri waiting for good weather and Everest waiting for the serac to fall. China still not responding to Nim's request to climb Shishapangma.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Summit Week!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/25/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-summit-week/) - Over 100 summits on Wednesday, September 25 across the Himalaya. China still not responding to Nim's request to climb Shishapangma. Two great videos.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Everest Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/23/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-everest-update/) - Manaslu climbers are on their summit push, while Dhaulagiri are still working and the few Everest climbers are monitoring the impending serac collapse. An intriguing week ahead.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Trouble on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/22/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-trouble-on-everest/) - Elite climbers from Mountain Hardwear have left Everest fearing the hanging seracs over the Icefall. Progress on other peaks but weather moved back on Manaslu. Challenging Autumn
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Snow Stalls Progress, Clear Skies Ahead](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/20/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-snow-stalls-progress-clear-skies-ahead/) - Little progress this week in the Himalaya due to big snows. But its clearing this weekend and the rope fixing and acclimatization rotations will resume. Nirmal Purja is back at Cho Base Camp.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Heavy Snow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/18/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-heavy-snow/) - Heavy snows have stalled progress in the Himalaya, but only for a few days. A sad death to report.
- [Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Summits Soon!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/09/17/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-summits-soon/) - Teams are getting serious in the Himalaya. Look for the first summits this week including from Nirmal Purja on Cho Ou hoping to summit his 12th 8000er in under 5 months.
- [New Everest Rules: A Deeper Look](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/08/26/new-everest-rules-a-deeper-look/) - Nepal proposed new Everest rules try to address safety on Everest. While a nice PR move, there is little of substance and a couple that make no sense. A deep look at the details.
- [10 Years after Ida's Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/08/16/10-years-after-idas-death/) - Ida Arnette died from Alzheimer's 10 years ago today, August 16, 2009. As I hike Colorado's Mt. Ida, I remember and honor her. Memories are Everything.
- [New Everest Climber and Guide Requirements](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/08/14/new-everest-climber-and-guide-requirements/) - Nepal announces new requirements for Everest climbers and guides and a minimum price guides can charge for the Spring 2020 season.
- [2019 Alzheimer's Fundraising Event](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/30/2019-alzheimers-fundraising-event/) - Join me in July 2019 as I climb three Bolivian volcanos including the 21,122'/6,438m Illimani all for a unique fundraiser opportunity for #Alzheimer's Disease.
- [Bolivia 2019: Poor Weather in Bolivia, But Got a Summit!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/23/bolivia-2019-poor-weather-in-bolivia-but-got-a-summit/) - Bad weather caused us to summit the 17,533' Tarija instead of Pequeno Alpamayo due to avi danger. Great time! Now to Huayna Potosi. Donate to #Alzheimer's research for Alan's 63rd.
- [Bolivia 2019: Acclimatizing in Bolivia](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/23/bolivia-2019-acclimatizing-in-bolivia/) - I'm well into the Bolivian climbs and want to announce a change for the Alzheimer's fundraising. We have spent the first week acclimatizing around La Paz and Lake Titicaca.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  One Last Effort to Summit K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/22/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-one-last-effort-to-summit-k2/) - A team of Super Climbers will make one last effort on K2 in dangerous conditions. Nirmal Purja aka "Nirmal Purja" with his Project Possible will lead the effort asking others to follow.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Avi on K2 Stalls Ropes, No Injuries. More Broad Peak Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/16/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-avi-on-k2-stalls-ropes-no-injuries-more-broad-peak-summits/) - Small avalanche on K2 delayed the rope fixing team by a couple days but no injuries were reported. Look for K2 summits to slip to Friday though the weekend if the weather holds.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  More Broad Peak Summits, K2 Climbers enroute to Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/15/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-more-broad-peak-summits-k2-climbers-enroute-to-summit/) - Welcome to K2 summit week with over 100 expected. Another 15+ summited Broad Peak. Unusually excellent weather, and of course talented climbers are behind the success thus far.
- [Bolivia 2019: Fun in La Paz](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/14/bolivia-2019-fun-in-la-paz/) - The Bolivian climbing adventure is well underway with some tourism time in La Paz including the Witches Market. Don't forget the Alzheimer's fund raising event opportunity.
- [Bolivia 2019: Climbing Bolivian Peaks for Alzheimer's](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/01/bolivia-2019-climbing-volcanoes-for-alzheimers/) - Join me in July 2019 as I climb three Bolivian Peaks including the 21,122'/6,438m Illimani all for a unique fundraiser opportunity for #Alzheimer's Disease.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Summits in the Karakorum, K2 Next](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/13/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-summits-in-the-karakorum-k2-next/) - Summits on the Gasherbrum and Broad Peak while teams are leaving K2 Base Camp aiming for summits on Wednesday, July 17.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Climbers on the Move in Good Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/11/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-climbers-on-the-move-in-good-weather/) - K2 climbers continue to make progress. More Broad Peak summit attempts this weekend. Weather remains unusually good.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  K2 Becomes More Organized](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/08/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-k2-becomes-more-organized/) - Excellent weather allows progress. The experienced leaders on K2 are working well to reduce crowd risk by using both primary routes thus year. Summits on Gasherbrum I.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Progress With Good Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/06/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-progress-with-good-weather/) - Excellent weather across the Karakorum allowed for summits and progress including Nirmal Purja who got his 7th 8000er in 4 months and a Messner achieving a new route!!
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Will K2 be like Everest this Year?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/03/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-will-k2-be-like-everest-this-year/) - The K2 season is showing the same crowds and inexperience problems we saw across the 8000ers and Everest that resulted in 21 deaths this past spring. I dig into this scary K2 scenario.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Teams On the Move, Nanga Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/07/02/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-teams-on-the-move-nanga-summit/) - Summit on Nanga Parbat and good progress on K2 before the weather takes a bad turn.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Weather Allows Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/28/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-weather-allows-progress/) - Finally, the weather allowed some progress on K2 but deep snow stopped higher progress. Another alleged fake Everest summit by an Indian climber.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - Too Few Porters, Too Much Snow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/26/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-too-few-porters-too-much-snow/) - The summer season for the Karakorum peaks of K2, Broad and Gasherbrum is starting slowly with poor weather and a shortage of porters.
- [Everest 2019: Team Locations and Headlines](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/30/everest-2019-team-locations-and-headlines/) - Welcome to Alan Arnette's Everest 2019 coverage. Called "the world's most respected chronicler of Everest”, my coverage provides daily insight and interpretation of the activities
- [Everest 2019: 3 New Deaths, Now 9 on Everest, 19 Overall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/23/everest-2019-3-new-deaths-now-6-on-everest-15-overall/) - 3 new deaths in last 24 hours on #everest2019, including one on Tibet side. Extreme cold, high winds, crowded routes and slow pace are part of the problem. 15 deaths- 6 from India
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - Snow Stalling K2 Progress](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/24/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-snow-stalling-k2-progress/) - Heavy snow on K2 and across the Karakorum is stalling progress. More climbing deaths and Everest breaks the 10,000 summit mark with a record year.
- [Everest: Nepal Looking at Huge Permit Fee Increase](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/21/everest-nepal-looking-at-huge-permit-fee-increase/) - Nepal may be preparing to double their #Everest permit fee to address growing criticism of mis-managing Everest. What impact would this have and is it a good idea? I take a look.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - First at K2 Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/19/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-first-at-k2-base-camp/) - The first climbers have arrived at K2 Base Camp experiencing heavy snow thought the 7 day trek on the Baltoro Glacier to base camp.
- [K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/14/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage/) - The #2019K2 climbing season has begun along with my annual coverage. There are 391 people scheduled to be climbing in the Karakorum this summer with 164 just on K2.
- [Everest 2019: Indians Fake their Summit Claim](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/06/10/everest-2019-indians-fake-their-summit-claim/) - As we have seen in previous years, Indian climbers are faking their #Everest summits and Nepal officials are going along.
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Recap - First Tibet Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/22/everest-2019-summit-wave-4-recap-first-tibet-summits/) - Literally hundreds of summits on both side of #Everest2019 Wednesday morning May 22. More for Thursday then winds return. Alpenglow member summited only 12 days after leaving home.
- [Everest 2019: Season Over?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/30/everest-2019-season-over/) - The last #Everest2019 team is now off the mountain as others are headed home. Lots to digest and lots to glean from a successful and difficult season.
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave Recap 7 - Quiet Summits, Another Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/27/everest-2019-summit-wave-recap-7-quiet-summits/) - A few more summits for the #Everest2019 Nepal side Monday morning May 27. They had the route and the summit all to themselves!
- [Too Many Deaths - Opinion](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/17/too-many-deaths/) - An alarming trend of greed, ignorance and ego are behind the 10 deaths already this season in the Himalaya. An opinion piece by Alan Arnette. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 1 - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/14/everest-2019-summit-wave-1/) - With 31 summits yesterday, 14 May across the Himalaya, climbers are rushing NOW, Wednesday 15 May to summit before this short weather window ends. Follow one as she is almost there
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 1 Recap, Wave 2 Underway](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/15/everest-2019-summit-wave-1-recap/) - Over 30 #Everest2019 summits so far. More attempts for Thursday Morning. But this window is over and the next doesn't look great. Rescue underway on Kangchenjunga
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave Recap 6 - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/23/everest-2019-summit-wave-recap-6/) - There are more summits on #Everest2019 from the Tibet side. In spite of the tragic deaths, all the climbers this year will remember their moment for life. More to come.
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 5 Recap - 3 Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/23/everest-2019-summit-wave-5-recap/) - Well over 200 total summits on May 23. I estimate 800 total so far. Big winds returned. Lots of frostbite. Another death on Nepal side. 13 now. More summits for 24th. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 5 Underway - Update 5](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/22/everest-2019-summit-wave-5-underway/) - Update 5: Benegas Brothers summited Furtenbach "Flash" team summited Adventure Consultants posted their summiteers: Alexander Pancoe Roman Tschupp - main team member Guide - Rob Smith - 6th summit Passang Bhote - 11th summit Chheten Dorji Sherpa - 7th summit Guru Bhote - 2nd summit Passang Angyu Bhote - 3rd summit Update 4: Sam James
- [Everest 2019: American Dead on Everest- Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/22/everest-2019-american-dead-on-everest/) - American dies near Hillary Step during huge summit day on #Everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Underway - Tiny Window - Update 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/21/everest-2019-summit-wave-4-underway-tiny-window/) - More #Everest2019 summits on Wednesday May 22. Perhaps over 200 today only and again tomorrow before the winds return. Good conditions now.
- [Everest 2017: Weekend Update April 16 - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/15/everest-2017-weekend-update-april-16/) - Teams will start climbing next week after arriving en masse to the base camps on both sides. The Weekly Update for #Everest2017.
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 Recap, Wave 4 Underway 250 Expected](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/21/everest-2019-summit-wave-3-recap-wave-4-underway-250-expected/) - Probably over 50 summits on Tuesday morning as the winds dropped. Over 250! heading up for Wednesday morning and progress on Tibet side. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 Summits and Delays - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/20/everest-2019-summit-wave-3-summits-and-delays/) - In tough conditions, there are summits from the Nepal side of #everest2019 Tuesday, May 21. Still none on the Tibet side. The jet stream is playing with the climbers.
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 - Cold for 14 on Top](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/20/everest-2019-summit-wave-3-cold-for-14-on-top/) - Conditions on #Everest2019 are far from ideal with -50C summit windchills. 14 more summits 5/21 and 200 more on Nepal side expected starting tomorrow 5/22. Tibet ropes in on 22
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 19](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/19/everest-2019-weekend-update-may-19/) - A big week last week with 200+ summits across the Himalayas but 11 deaths. The focus now shifts to #Everest2019 with over 700 climbers going for the top on both sides. The weather is wobbly.
- [Everest 2019: Next Summit Waves Prepare](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/18/everest-2019-next-summit-waves-prepare/) - The base camps are emptying as most teams move to their camps at 7,000m. Winds still high on Tibet side, calming in Nepal but this window looks shorter than expected. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Quiet after 3 Successful and 10 Dead Thus Far](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/16/everest-2019-quiet-after-3-successful-and-deadly-days-everest-climber-missing/) - With a lull between the weather windows on #everest2019, teams are returning to base while others are climbing up for the window next week. Many deaths and incidents already.
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 2 Update and Recap, Kang Deaths - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/15/everest-2019-summit-wave-2-update-and-recap-kang-deaths/) - UPDATE: 2 Deaths, a missing climber and 2 more needed helicopter evacuation off Kanchenjunga. Over 32 Everest summits on Thursday, May 16,2019, morning. 60+ Thus far. We have more summits on Thursday, May 16 and this may be the all for a few days as the jet returns. Teams on both the Nepal and Tibet
- [Everest 2019: Summit Wave 0 - Everest, Lhotse and More!!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/14/everest-2019-everest-and-lhotse-summits/) - Big Summit Day in the Himalaya with rope teams summiting Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. This is a tiny 2 day window with more teams trying to summit tomorrow.
- [Everest 2019: Ropes Make Progress, Lhotse Bid Underway NOW](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/13/everest-2019-ropes-make-progress-lhotse-bid-underway-now/) - Everest is very busy now with ropes reaching the high point on both sides, multiple teams positioned for summits on Thursday May 16. Lhotse bid NOW Tues May 14.
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 12](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/11/everest-2019-weekend-update-may-12/) - #everest2019 is complicated. The jet stream is flirting with the summit and climbing team are testing their limits.
- [Everest 2019: Anticipation](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/11/everest-2019-anticipation/) - The weather forecast for #everest2019 calls for low winds on Sunday May 12 so many teams are preparing for their summit push as the ropes should reach the summit soon. Anticipation
- [Everest 2019: Here We Go!!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/10/everest-2019-here-we-go/) - As we enter the weekend, winds are predicted to calm and many ready to summit #everest2019. The jet looks to move off the summit and stay away for a week! The Summit window is here
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Summits?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/09/everest-2019-weekend-summits/) - The constant roar of the jet stream across the summit #everest2019 reminds climbers it's not summit time but there may be a break this weekend. Checking in with Nepali Guides.
- [Everest 2019: Another Himalayan Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/08/everest-2019-another-himalayan-death/) - Another death in the Himalaya this season. Winds return to Everest and new technology to make climbs safer. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Loads to South Col](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/07/everest-2019-loads-to-south-col/) - Climbers re everywhere this #everest2019 from the high camps to the lower villages as different teams are following their own strategies waiting for the high winds aloft to ease.
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 5](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/04/weekend_update_may_5/) - Weekend Update #Everest2019: The big winds and snow that hit the upper camps have cleared out. Climbing resumes but the Jet Stream will stop the rope fixing teams this week
- [Everest 2019: The Jet Takes Over](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/06/everest-2019-the-jet-takes-over/) - Its back to normal on #Everest2019, including the jet stream pummeling the summit. A big question is when the ropes will get to the top and how many summit days this year.
- [Everest 2019: Big Snow, Now Calm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/04/everest-2019-big-snow-now-calm/) - Two days of wind and snow from Cyclone Fani created some damage on #Everest2019: 100 tents lost at C2 on Nepal side. No injuries. Weather improving, Climbing resumes tomorrow
- [Everest 2019: Big Snow, or NO Snow](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/02/everest-2019-big-snow-or-no-snow/) - Which is it? Big snow or no snow? Even the professionals are tossing coins these days and our climbers on Everest are making tough decisions. Should I stay or should I go? I've heard that someone before :) Headlines Now there are a record 377 permits issued to member climbers on the Nepal side. No
- [Everest 2019: Big Winds!!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/03/everest-2019-big-winds/) - Big, big winds from the outer bands of Cyclone Fani combined with Jet Stream to destroy camps on both sides of Everest. No injures or casualties reported gear and tents are gone
- [Everest 2019: Annapurna Climber Dies - Blame Game Continues](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/02/everest-2019-annapurna-climber-dies-blame-game-continues/) - Annapurna climber Wui Kin Chin has died in a Singapore hospital. Both Seven Summits treks and Global Rescue maintain the other was at fault in this follow-up article.
- [Everest 2019: Facing Fears](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/20/everest-2018-facing-fears/) - Climbing Everest from the Nepal side became real today with multiple teams scaling the Khumbu Icefall for the first time all the way to Camp 1. It's very hot at C1 #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Eye on the Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/01/everest-2019-eye-on-the-weather/) - Will big winds and snow stall acclimatization progress on both sides of Everest? Well its the weather but the weekend looks tough. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Rotation Crux Time](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/05/01/everest-2019-rotation-crux-time/) - Climbers are tagging for sleeping at 7000m as they are in the crux of their acclimatization programs. Also, a few have had enough and coming home.
- [Everest 2019: Ropes to North Col!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/29/everest-2019-ropes-to-north-col/) - Good news with the fixed lines at the North Col after a few days delay due to avalanche danger. Teams begin 2nd rotation on Nepal side. Big snow later in the week? #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 28](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/27/everest-2019-weekend-update-april-28/) - Finger pointing around the rescue on Annapurna while teams on both sides of Everest fight conditions - avi danger on North, blue ice on south. #everest2019 continues
- [Everest 2019: Climbing Conditions Could be Difficult this Year](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/26/everest-2019-climbing-conditions-could-be-difficult-this-year/) - Lhotse Face is hard blue ice and big snow on the North side. Could this be a difficult season on #everest2019? Too soon to tell but ...
- [Everest 2019: Madison Mountaineering Exclusive Report on Everest Conditions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/26/everest-2019-maddison-mountaineering-exclusive-report-on-everest-conditions/) - I asked Garrett Madison for his impressions of the route through the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm on the Nepal side of #everest2019. Also the crowds given a record number of permits
- [Everest 2019:Remembering The Day Nepal Shook](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/24/everest-2018-the-day-nepal-shook-2/) - It was 4 years ago on April 25 in Nepal that a devastating earthquake took over 9,000 lives. Some are still rebuilding, some never will. I was on Everest that day. This is my story
- [Everest 2019: Missing Annapurna Climber Rescued Alive](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/25/everest-2019-missing-annapurna-climber-rescued-alive/) - Missing Annapurna climber has been found and brought to Camp 3. Progress on Fixed Ropes on both sides. Making movies on #Everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Missing Annapurna Climber and Quiet on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/24/everest-2019-missing-annapurna-climber-and-quiet-on-everest/) - Quiet day for #Everest2019 as climbers adjust their bodies to ever higher altitudes during this first major rotation period. Sadly one climber is missing after summiting Annapurna.
- [Everest 2019: Monday Crevasse Fall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/22/everest-2018-monday-crevasse-fall/) - #Everest2019 starts this week with a fall into a crevasse on the South, Puja from the North and progress on the Hill.
- [Everest 2019: Camp 2 Mirage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/23/everest-2018-camp-2-mirage/) - Annapurna saw the first 8000-meter summits for this spring - 32 of them!! Acclimatization on the Nepal side of #everest2019 with a stressful trek between Camp 1 and Camp 2
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 21](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/21/everest-2019-weekend-update-april-21/) - How bad is the trash and bodies on Everest and what's being done? As the #everest2019 season moves smoothly into its 4th week, I take an honest look and what's ahead this season.
- [Everest 2019: Sleeping In The Cwm!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/19/everest-2019-sleeping-in-the-cwm/) - Friday April 19 2019 was a good day on Everest. Teams now have members sleeping the Western Cwm at Camp 1 and Intermediate Camp and ABC are coming together in Tibet. #everest2019
- [Everest 2018: Into the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/04/17/everest-2018-into-the-icefall/) - The #Everest2018 season continues in an orderly manner. The first teams have entered the Icefall on the Nepal side. A look at crossing the ladders.
- [Everest 2019: Climbing!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/18/everest-2019-climbing/) - So far so good as the teams on both sides of #Everest2019 begin to make their way up the Hill. Update from Himex and awesome videos from others.
- [Everest 2019: First Impressions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/16/everest-2019-first-impressions/) - Both sides of #Everest2019 are buzzing with activity. In Nepal, they are preparing to enter the Icefall. In Tibet they are adjusting to their new home.
- [Everest 2019: Before the First Steps into the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/16/everest-2019-before-the-first-steps-into-the-icefall/) - #Everest2019 slowly builds to the next phase. The final few days before your first steps in the Khumbu Icefall are filled with mixed emotions. The yaks are annoyed.
- [Everest 2019: Training Before Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/15/everest-2019-training-before-climbing/) - Thus far, #Everest 2019 is going well, right on schedule on both sides. The actual climbing will pick up this week, especially towards the weekend assuming the weather continues to be good.
- [Everest 2019: Deadly Crash at Lukla](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/14/everest-2019-deadly-crash-at-lukla/) - Today April 14, 2019 at Nepal's Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport a Summit Air plane with a crew of 3 and no passengers crashed on take-off. 2 on the ground and the pilot were killed.
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 14](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/13/everest-2019-weekend-update-april-14/) - The #Everest2019 spring season is fully underway! Look for first foreign climbs into the Icefall this next week. The usual start-up communications issues are happening at base camp
- [Everest 2019: Prayers Before Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/13/everest-2019-prayers-before-climbing/) - Before the serious climbing begins with Sherpas, a Puja is performed. This ceremony is meaningful, impactful and fun for everyone involved. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: Avoiding the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/11/everest-2019-avoiding-the-icefall/) - #Everest2019 teams are traveling to the Tibet side while some in Nepal are acclimatizing on Lobuche East 20,000' to reduce a trip through the Khumbu Icefall. Is it that dangerous?
- [Everest 2019: First Days in Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/11/everest-2019-first-days-in-base-camp/) - Climbers are getting settled into their personal tents at #Everest2019 Base Camp. The first few hours require a bit of a transition. It's a different world.
- [Everest 2019: Everest Base Camp!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/10/everest-2019-everest-base-camp/) - For the trekkers to Base Camp or the climbers, the journey is over. Today they arrived at Everest Base Camp. Clouds are blocking the view but satisfaction abounds. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: The Trekker's Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/09/everest-2019-the-trekkers-summit/) - Many #everest2019 teams are arriving at base camp. Others are still on the trek with Kala Patar being their summit. Its cold and windy, but what a view ...
- [Everest 2019: Leaving the Grass](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/08/everest-2019-leaving-the-grass/) - Climbers are getting closer to base camp for #Everest2019, but along the way on the Nepal side they stop in their tracks when they see a ridge of memorials for those who died.
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 7](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/07/everest-2019-weekend-update-april-7/) - Weekend Update: Khumbu Icefall is now open for #everest2019, but is it early?? Teams are still trekking to base camps on the Nepal side and just leaving home for the Tibet side.
- [2018/19 Winter K2, Nanga Parbat but No Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/12/02/2018-19-winter-k2-nanga-parbat-but-no-everest/) - There will be two attempts on K2 this winter, both starting in early January 2019. Also a new route on Nanga Parbat but the Commercial winter Everest expedition has been cancelled.
- [China Clamps Down on Everest Climbs](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/12/05/china-clamps-down-on-everest-climbs/) - China announced new rules for #Everest2019 that will increase climber's cost, put them under more control and potentially block Nepal companies from operating on the north side.
- [2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers en route, Nanga Climbers Climbing, New Everest Route?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/01/06/2018-19-winter-climbs-k2-climbers-en-route-nanga-climbers-climbing/) - The winter 8000-meter teams are well on their way to their respective peaks. On Nanga Parbat, the climbing has begun. 
- [How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2019 Edition](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/12/17/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2019-edition/) - How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2019 Edition. I take a very detailed look at the alternatives to climb Everest from cheap to ridiculously expensive.
- [Everest 2019: Update on Everest Rescue Scams and China "New" Rules](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/02/11/everest-2019-update-on-everest-rescue-scams-and-china-new-rules/) - With the spring Everest climbing season only six weeks away, the well-publicized insurance fraud in Nepal heats back up while China seems intent on taking more control of their side of the Big E. Insurance Fraud and Insurance Threats I covered in great depth last August in this post but the gist of it was
- [Everest 2019: Interview with Adrian Ballinger on China's New Rules](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/02/25/everest-2019-interview-with-adrian-ballinger-on-chinas-new-rules/) - Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow founder, has made his name guiding Everest Rapid Ascents but only from the Chinese side. I delve into what the new rules means for climbing from Tibet.
- [Everest 2019: Welcome to Everest 2019 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/01/everest-2019-welcome-to-everest-2019-coverage/) - The Everest 2019 season will began in a few weeks so I am starting my annual coverage now: Welcome to Everest 2019 Coverage
- [Everest 2019: Be Aware of Significant Problems Flying from Kathmandu to Lukla](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/01/everest-2019-be-aware-of-significant-problems-flying-from-kathmandu-to-lukla/) - Note to trekkers/climbers planning to fly from KTM-Lukla, no fights until June 30 due to airport construction. Officials suggest another airport 4 hours away, but there's another way
- [Everest 2019: Stories to Watch This Season](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/25/everest-2019-stories-to-watch-this-season/) - The major story lines for #Everest2019. Potentially record summits, but what about crowds? And a significant change in who is climbing, does it matter? Weather is the wildcard.
- [Everest 2019: Interview with Garrett Madison - A Leader on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/28/everest-2019-interview-with-garrett-madison-a-leader-on-everest/) - Garrett Madison has personally guided more people to the summit of Everest than any other guide. He is back this spring and I caught up with him as he was leaving for Nepal.
- [Everest 2019: Kathmandu Gets Busy](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/29/everest-2019-kathmandu-gets-busy/) - Kathmandu, Lukla and the Khumbu are all filling up with climbers, and trekkers this spring. The last fixed wings flights to Lukla are running about normal before being shut down for airport construction April and May. Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side is taking shape with team after team sending their Sherpas to build
- [Everest 2019: Weekend Update March  31](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/03/30/everest-2019-weekend-update-march-31/) - Climbers are now on their way to Everest, running through a wide range of emotions, but for those back home its a time of unknowns. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: The Namche Hill](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/02/everest-2019-the-namche-hill/) - For years people developed a fear of one section on the trek to the informal capital of the Khumbu, Namche Bazaar - climbing the Namche Hill! Just how bad is it? #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: The Trek to EBC Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/01/everest-2019-the-trek-to-ebc-begins/) - If you are on #Everest2019 then you will probably fly from Kathmandu to Lukla. For some this is a moment of high anxiety!
- [Everest 2019: Namche and Everest View](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/03/everest-2019-namche-and-everest-view/) - Reaching Namche Bazaar is a milestone but the views and experiences tells the story. #everest2019 continues as climbers make their way to their base camps.
- [Everest 2019: Trek to Tengboche Monastery](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/04/everest-2019-trek-to-tengboche-monastery/) - #Everest2019 continues as more teams are now in the Khumbu and those climbing from Tibet have left home. Today we trek from Namche to the Tengboche Monastery, an up and down trip
- [Everest 2019: Morning View and Prayers at the Monastery](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/05/everest-2019-morning-view-and-prayers-at-the-monastery/) - Trekking to Base Camp is more than a journey of distance, it is also an opportunity for growth and inspiration. #everest2019
- [Everest 2019: When is a Rest day, a Rest Day?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/04/06/everest-2019-when-is-a-rest-day-a-rest-day/) - For the climbing teams making the trek to Everest Base Camp, some days are simply a rest day, others are not! #everest2019
- [K2 2018 Summer Season: Weekend Update 22 June](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/06/22/k2-2018-summer-season-weekend-update-22-june/) - Activity is picking up a bit in Northern Pakistan. Japanese team has touched K2 Camp but snow is delaying work on other 8000ers. Still very, very early in a month long season.
- [K2 2018 Summer Season Coverage: Weekend Update 30 June - SNOW!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/06/30/k2-2018-summer-season-coverage-weekend-update-30-june-snow/) - Snow, snow, snow and more snow. Activity across the Karakoram has stopped as over a foot of snow has hit base camps. I take a look at their options.
- [K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Weekend Update July 6](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/07/06/k2-2018-summer-coverage-weekend-update-july-6/) - A 4 day break in the otherwise miserable weather has allowed climbers to make progress all over the Norther Pakistani Mountains including K2. Sadly a death in Perua, including a friend.
- [K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Weekend Update July 15](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/07/14/k2-2018-summer-coverage-weekend-update-july-15/) - Broad Peak summit push underway this weekend. Using a drone, a world-class climber was saved from near death. K2 teams are prepping for summit pushes late next week. Busy in Pakistan.
- [K2 2018 Summer Coverage: K2 Summits Expected over Weekend](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/07/20/k2-2018-summer-coverage-k2-summits-expected-over-weekend/) - We can expected K2 summits over the weekend but the weather remains the wild-card. A look at how hard to it is to pull off a double - Broad Peak then K2.
- [K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Record Weekend on K2 and a Death](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/07/23/k2-2018-summer-coverage-record-weekend-on-k2-and-a-death/) - An amazing weekend on K2 with a record 60+ summits, the first ski descent, 7 female summits, Pakistani Fazal Ali shimshal's 3rd summit and sadly one more death.
- [K2 2018 Summer Season Coverage: Weekend Update 17 June - Japanese at K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/06/17/k2-2018-summer-season-coverage-weekend-update-17-june-japanese-at-k2/) - Akira Oyabe's Japanese team targeted C1 on K2 today. Snow delays Mike Horn on Nanga. Meanwhile others start the 80-mile trek on the Baltoro Glacier. All is well in the Karakoram.
- [Leaving This Week for Shisha Pangma](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2007/08/26/leaving-this-week-for-shisha-pangma/) - Later this week, prescription I depart for Kathmandu to meet up with the rest of the team for our Shisha Pagma expedition. I am very excited about this climb for a number of reasons. First, see this is the second climb of The Road Back to Mt. Everest - Memories are Everything journey. Second my
- [Update on my Mom](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2009/08/25/update-on-my-mom/) - Ida Arnette passed away from Alzheimer's disease on August 16, 2009. She struggled for over 8 years and was under hospice care at the end. We celebrated her life with friends and family this past weekend. While it was expected, hospital it is both a time of deep sadness for us and relief for her.
- [A Special 14er Climb](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2009/09/24/a-special-14er-climb/) - I will be climbing an old friend this week - Mt. Belford and the neighbor, check Mt. Oxford. They are in the Sawatch range in Central Colorado and I climbed them both in 2005. These are not particularly difficult climbs but this will be special for an entirely different reason. You see back in April,
- [ing Climbing Gear Online](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2009/11/12/ing-climbing-gear-online/) - Everybody wants a deal. Houses, cars, beer and of course, climbing gear. Thus an entire industry has emerged over the years to serve this "price sensitive" market online. After all why pay $500 for that down jacket you need - yes you need it - instead of say, $99? I know I most of my
- [Into the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/04/15/into-the-icefall-2/) - It is getting busy! Climbers finally started going through the Icefall on Thursday, Nepal time. It is always surprising during the first trip to see where the route goes. Climbers look for the milestones: the Prayer Flags, the Popcorn, the Football Field, Vertical Ladders. At each break, they look ahead in vain for the top
- [Teams into the Western Cwm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/04/18/teams-into-the-western-cwm-2/) - Right on schedule this weekend, teams made their way through the Icefall and into the Western Cwm for the first time. Some went all the way to camp 2, or sometimes referred to as ABC on the south side. But most were content to put in a sleep at camp 1 just above the top
- [Interview with Lei Wang: 7+2 is her Dream](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/03/02/interview-with-lei-wang-72-is-her-dream-2/) - Lei Wang may be about to accomplish something by her calculations only nine other people have done thus far: stand on top of the 7 Summits and ski the last degree to north and south poles - assuming she summits Everest about 3 months from now. Growing up in China, Lei spent her weekends catching
- [North Summits and South Push (update 4)](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/16/north-summits-and-south-push-2/) - update #4: Multiple teams are reporting summits this morning in Nepal. I estimate well over 30 summits from the south, probably much more. Weather was holding as of early morning. Congratulations and well done to all. The tracking chart is updated based on available information but so please check their sites for details on their
- [Good Weather Reported for the Summit Push! (update 2)](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/15/good-weather-reported-for-the-summit-push-2/) - update 2: 50+ climbers to South Col on Sat May 15, few, if any, went for summit as winds picked up. Look for big Sun night, Nepal time with summits Mon morning assuming weather holds. Next big window now May 24(?). update: as we approach midnight Saturday at the South Col, some teams are delaying
- [South Teams Racing Against the Weather for Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/14/south-teams-racing-against-the-weather-for-summits-2/) - The summit push is on and the south is pushing hard. Teams are at camp 3, Sherpas are at the South Col with tents and oxygen ready for the summit push. If the weather window holds, per some forecasts, teams should arrive at the South Col mid-day Saturday, Nepal time and start their summit bids
- [Reading Everest Weather](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/13/reading-everest-weather-2/) - More teams have made the decision for a summit bid this weekend. The latest include the Malta Everest team, half of Peak Freaks and a two person team from First Ascent. They are now at camp 2. Why are these climbers going to the top in marginal weather? Well maybe the weather will not be
- [A Race to the Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/12/a-race-to-the-summit-2/) - The lure of Everest's summit has taken on new dimensions and is spreading throughout the south base camp. First up, we have an old-fashion foot race on Everest. Two Finish women are literally racing to claim bragging rights to being the first Finish woman to summit Everest. Then in addition to the previously announced summit
- [Focus on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/20/focus-on-everest-2/) - Teams are all over Everest today, no some climbing; other stuck. High winds on both sides made progress difficult and sometimes impossible for some teams as they continue to push hard to avoid the impending weather. It is snowing at Base Camp on the south and the winds are pummeling the north side; stopping some
- [Monsoon Watch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/19/monsoon-watch-2/) - A huge wave of climbers on both sides of Everest have moved to their respective Advanced Base Camps. Many have declared a summit day of May 22nd but are monitoring the weather closely. This season is beginning to look identical to 2009 when bad weather basically shut Everest down around May 23rd and eventually delayed
- [A Good Start to a Busy Week](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/17/a-good-start-to-a-busy-week-2/) - There were at least 40 summits on Monday morning, May 16th from the south side. It is still not clear if there were any from the north. The winds did pick up late Monday bringing a stop to this brief window. There were no reports of serious problems with any of the climbers at this
- [Everest is Buzzing with Activity for Next Window](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/18/everest-is-buzzing-with-activity-for-next-window-2/) - Excitement is building once again for more summits as team after team left Base Camp for camp 2 on the south and ABC on the north. Their enthusiasm, however, was tempered by talk of monsoons in India; more on that in a moment. There were talks of additional summits for Tuesday, May 18th, but nothing
- [Finding Clark's Arrow on Longs Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/07/03/finding-clarks-arrow-on-longs-peak/) - Sometimes it is the little thing. I have climbed on Longs Peak perhaps 70 times in all kinds of weather by multiple routes. But one small goal has eluded me for years. You see, way back in the early days of Rocky Mountain National Park, an enterprising ranger named John Clark decided to help out
- [Everest 2010 Season Summary](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/06/03/everest-2010-season-recap-2/) - By recent standards, view Everest 2010 was a safe and successful year. There were about 513 summits with 4 reported deaths, search all on the north, and several injuries and rescues. The total Everest summits broke the total 5,000 (about 3500 are multiple summits by Sherpas and guides) level since the first in 1953. This
- [Injuries on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/20/injuries-on-everest-2/) - The last summit window was heralded as a great success by many teams. However it was not without incidents and many were not reported. EverestER, the base camp medical facility on the south posted a very revealing report on this summit window. And there are other reports on both sides from this season. First from
- [Positioned for the Summit Wave 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/05/21/positioned-for-the-summit-wave-1-2/) - After fighting fierce winds on Wednesday and Thursday, team after team made progress and climbed to the launching point on both sides of Everest Friday, ask May 21st and are ready to go for their summit bids starting Friday night, Nepal time (see sidebar for current time). The good news is the winds have calmed
- [The Final 14ers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2010/08/11/the-final-14ers/) - Sometimes a goal is not a goal until you near the end. That is my story for climbing all of Colorado's Mountains over 14, 000 feet. My first 14er was Longs Peak in 1992, then a few more in 2002. I got serious after meeting Patrick Vall and Robert LeClair. They both wanted to climb
- [Tell a Friend, Ask a Friend](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/01/24/tell-a-friend-ask-a-friend/) - We have had a busy few days. A carry and move to Camp 1 at 16, 500'. Then a carry to our Camp 2, check also known as Guanacos Camp 3, at 18,000'. We have been dodging lightening, thunder, high winds and snow squalls along the way. We are now entering very serious altitude. Thus
- [Climbers and Caregivers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2011/01/26/climbers-and-caregivers/) - As we arrived at our Camp 2 yesterday, cheap a young lady with a large pack approached us. She had been following us closely since the turnoff at the Col. Now she looked confused. It seems she was climbing with an independent team and her two teammates had left her to find the next camp
- [Everest 2012: Base Camp Open for Business!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/04/09/everest-2012-base-camp-open-for-business/) - As expected this weekend saw several teams arrive at Everest Base Camp on the South side after their week long trek from Lukla. Many more are scheduled to arrive today and tomorrow. Over on the north at least two teams have posted that they are en route. I will now begin to update the location
- [Everest 2012: A Journey through Tibet](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/04/06/everest-2012-a-journey-through-tibet/) - It looks like the first teams trekking to Everest Base Camp - South will arrive this weekend. We have been following them all week and so far so good. Just the usual trek sniffles, coughs and aches along with some heavy downpours and a few inches of fresh snow. But the biggest complaints thus far
- [Everest 2012: Into the Icefall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/04/16/everest-2012-into-the-icefall/) - Monday morning at Everest Base Camp! Just like at home, climbers are busy doing what climbers do on Everest as the trekkers become climbers. Base camp is a bee hive of activity. I would guess there are forty or more teams established at EBC-South each with their sprawling compound of tents. The rock and ice
- [Everest 2012: Lhotse Face Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/04/28/everest-2012-lhotse-face-push/) - For the rest of the world, weekends are times for fun and relaxing. On Everest it is time for work. Today, several teams are climbing towards Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face and over on the North, heading back to the safety of base camp after a difficult climb to the North Col. Avalanche Update
- [Everest 2012: Sherpa Train](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/10/everest-2012-3/) - Everest teams are spread all over the Khumbu and southern Tibet at the moment. A few are still at the high camps but most are holding at base camps or down in the villages enjoying the richer air. There are 10 Sherpas from multiple teams working together to fix the rope to the summit on
- [Everest 2012: Everest Leaders Make Tough Decisions](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/04/everest-2012-everest-leaders-make-tough-decisions/) - As Everest 2012 becomes more dangerous, there the commercial expeditions leaders are being forced into making difficult decisions. At the root of the dilemma are extremely dry conditions and rock fall. Some teams have declared a ground hold, others are reing back down valley, some are holding at their current camps and yet others are
- [Everest 2012: Holding and Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/05/everest-2012-holding-and-climbing/) - The Everest season has officially split on the South side. Over on the North, they continue their effort to reach the North Col and tag 7500m. On both sides, eyes are glued to weather forecasts wondering where they will be when the winds return. South Split As I have covered over the past few days,
- [Everest 2012: "MAY 14th – It’s time…"](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/14/everest-2012-may-14th-its-time/) - The headline tells it all "MAY 14th – It’s time…". Grant Rawlinson climbing on the north with Altitude Junkies posted today that he was moving to the high camps looking to attempt his Everest summit later this week. North Schedule Project Himalaya climber Tom Kowpak provided a clear description of the north side situation and targeting
- [Everest 2012: Preparing for the Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/15/everest-2012-preparing-for-the-push/) - The push is on with multiple teams reporting their initial moves to Camp 1 or 2 on the South or ABC on the North. All are looking at a weekend summit - weather depending. This is the first of at least two expected summit windows with the second around May 25; but this could quickly
- [Everest 2012: Timing is Everything](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/16/everest-2012-timing-is-everything/) - As we get closer to the predicted weather window, plans are taking shape, and some don't like it. West Ridge Canceled As expected Conrad Anker has pulled the plug on the National Geographic sponsored climb of the West Ridge due to dangerous conditions. He will now join their South Col team. No word on the
- [Everest 2012: Ropes Near the Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/17/everest-2012-ropes-near-the-summit/) - Update 1 Chilean team left South Col near Midnight May 17th to summit without fixed ropes. Would be first 2012 summits Update 2 Also Ueli Steck is on his way. He is climbing without supplemental oxygen. Best news of the season, no winds on Thursday May 17 allowing the rope fixers to set lines high
- [Everest 2012: The Significance of Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/21/everest-2012-the-significance-of-everest/) - An 18 year old summits Everest fulfilling a dream and then experiences the trauma of passing newly perished bodies on the descent. A 70 year old, turns back from the summit choosing family over a summit as the relentless winds force an obvious but still difficult choice. Summit or not, young or old; Everest remains
- [Everest 2012: Positioning for the Last Wave](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/21/everest-2012-positioning-for-the-last-wave/) - The last wave of climbers are positioned at Camp 2 on the South and ABC on the North. The last weather window of the 2012 spring season is taking shape with May 25/26th being the sweet spot. Weather I spoke with Everest weather expert, prescription Michael Fagin who said the monsoons were forming off India:
- [Everest 2012: Above the Death Zone](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/22/everest-2012-above-the-death-zone/) - As we ease closer to the next and final wave of Everest summits, advice the recent events of deaths on both sides of Everest have to be on the minds of the climbers. The South Experience A first hand report by Leanna Shuttleworth who summited with Alpine Ascents on May 20th, reveals just what they
- [Everest 2012: The Final Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/24/everest-2012-the-final-push/) - Well Everest 2012 is coming to an end. Teams are now positioned at high camps twitching with anxiety for summit pushes starting in a few hours, Thursday night, check May 24 and again on Friday Night, May 25 Nepal time. Summits the following morning. Eric Simonson, IMG, provided this weather insight: The jet stream
- [Everest 2012: Summit Wave 4 - Summits!!! - Update 1](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/24/everest-2012-summit-wave-4/) - Update 1 - Summits Kenton Cool has reached the summit on Friday morning, May 25 abut 4:45 AM. He is preparing to send a live video update from the summit to the BBC. Check his Facebook page for more information. Update 1.5: I just spoke with Kenton Cool's home team and the laptop went down
- [Everest 2012: Summit Wave 4 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/25/everest-2012-summit-wave-4-recap/) - We saw many successful summit climbs on Everest overnight, May 23/24. I estimate about 115 combined on both sides. This was a typical Everest summit day and more representative of how Everest is climbed in modern times. Teams carefully considered the winds as they arrived at the South Col, some choose to go up, hospital
- [Everest 2012: Summit Wave 5 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/26/everest-2012-summit-wave-5-recap/) - Friday night, May 25 into Saturday morning, mind May 26 could have been the night of the Everest 2012 season. Almost 100 climbers summited as early as 3:30AM in conditions rarely seen on Everest - clear skies, no winds and mild (for 29,000') temperatures. Incredibly some even missed the sunrise from the summit by arriving
- [The Colorado High Park Fire - A Personal Perspective](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/06/12/the-colorado-high-park-fire-a-personal-perspective/) - The fear of anyone living in the mountains is fire. While there are many ways to protect your home from the onslaught of a raging wave of fire, click sometimes there is nothing you can do. This past weekend, the residents of Northern Colorado saw such a fire develop and it continues today, 4 days
- [Everest 2012: Summit Wave 5 - Update 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/25/everest-2012-summit-wave-5/) - Update 3 The SummitClimb team that turned back last week made it this morning in outstanding time. This from Arnold Coster: This morning Jangbu Sherpa and John reached the summit of Everest at around 3:30am. Sandra, Richie, Steve, Chauwang, Lakpha and passing followed at around 5:30 am. The weather was beautiful and quiet. No winds
- [Everest 2012: Season Recap: A Study in Risk Management](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/05/30/everest-2012-season-recap-a-study-in-risk-management/) - If there was one phrase to sum up this season where over 500 people summited Everest, it might be: risk management. There were signs from the beginning that the Everest 2012 season would be different when Sherpas establishing base camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall reported that the upper mountain looked "dry". Once
- [A Look at the Colorado 14ers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/09/07/a-look-at-the-colorado-14ers/) - This weekend I will be on a special climb of a 14,000 foot Colorado mountain, Handies Peak in the San Juan Range. I have already climbed this one.
- [Everest Deserves Respect](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2012/10/29/everest-deserves-respect/) - Over four days in May 2012, around 250 Westerners and 270 Sherpas and Tibetans support climbers summited Mt. Everest. For many, attaining highest point on Earth was the culmination of endless training, personal sacrifices and hard work to achieve a meaningful and fulfilling lifelong dream.
- [Everest 2013: The Ethics of Everest Reporting](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/03/12/everest-2103-the-ethics-of-everest-reporting/) - When a death occurs on Everest, I follow a strict protocol. My first thoughts are to the family, then the teammates and finally the public.
- [Everest 2013: Interview with Ronnie Muhl - Climbing From South Africa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/03/18/everest-2013-interview-with-ronnie-muhl-climbing-from-south-africa/) - South African Ronnie Muhl is back to Everest hoping to summit from the South this time. He was the 7th South African to summit Everest in 2007.
- [Everest 2013: Interview with Gosia Borchardt - Pushing Her Limits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/03/25/everest-2013-interview-with-gosia-borchardt-pushing-her-limits/) - Born in Poland, Gosia Borchardt moved to St. Louis when she was 15. Now a Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist, her next adventure is Mt. Everest.
- [Everest 2013: Blessings from the Lama](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/05/everest-2013-blessings-from-the-lama/) - Passing the memorials for fallen Everest climbers at Dugla pass makes the blessings from the Lama even more significant as the climbers continue their way to Base Camp.
- [Everest 2013: Yearning for Home](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/16/everest-2013-yearning-for-home/) - For Everest climbers, the attack at the Boston Marathon yesterday makes home very far away.
- [Everest 2013: A Tale of Two Mountains](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/26/everest-2013-a-tale-of-two-mountains/) - Everest is a huge massif that sometimes shows two very different sides to climbers. Climbing a very hot Western Cwm
- [Everest 2013: Preparing for Camp 3, Sherpa Injured, OK](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/27/everest-2013-preparing-for-camp-3/) - Multiple teams left Base Camp preparing to spend that all important night at 23,500' half way up the Lhotse Face. Sherpa reported injured on Lhotse Face but OK
- [Everest 2013: Race to Camp 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/04/everest-2013-race-to-camp-3/) - Most of the teams moving up now are trying to spend the night or tag Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face before big winds hit Everest.
- [Everest 2013: Summit Talk - Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/07/everest-2013-summit-talk/) - A tiny weather window is developing for this weekend and plans are being made. An update on the Everest 2013 climbing season
- [Everest 2013: Summit Chances](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/11/everest-2013-summit-chances/) - With the route open to the summit, what are the odds of making it? An update on the Everest 2013 climbing season
- [Everest 2013: Summit Wave 2 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/16/everest-2013-summit-wave-2-recap/) - It was a crazy Thursday night on Everest with teams turning back and teams summiting including Berg Adventures and the Giripremi Pune Indian team. More to come
- [Everest 2013: Summit Wave 5 Recap](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/05/20/everest-2013-summit-wave-5-recap-wave-6/) - A steady stream of summits in good weather. 135 heading up Monday. A look at crowd management. An update on the Everest 2013 climbing season
- [Manaslu 2013: Thoughts as I Board the Plane](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/08/23/manaslu-2013-thoughts-board-plane/) - Leaving home for an 8000 meter climb is always a time of mixed emotions. On one hand, I am excited to return to the high mountains and expedition life but on the other, I am leaving home for a long time.
- [Uncle Bud's Hut: A Colorado Exclusive](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/12/16/uncle-buds-hut-colorado-exclusive/) - A weekend at the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association 's Uncle Bud's Hut
- [Everest 2014: Base Camp Life](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/04/14/everest-2014-base-camp-life/) - With most of the #Everest2014 teams now in the Nepal Base Camp, they are settling into a new lifestyle and dreaming of the future days ahead.
- [Everest 2014: Why Climb Everest?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/02/05/everest-2014-climb-everest/) - "Why?" may be the most provocative question ever asked of anyone attempting extraordinary things. And for many, it is often the hardest to answer.
- [Everest 2014: Ellis Stewart - Never Giving Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/03/03/everest-2014-ellis-stewart-never-giving/) - For 20 years Briton Ellis Stewart has dreamed of Everest. Soon his perseverance pays off for #Everest2014. Dreams can come true
- [Everest 2014: Climbing from Tibet](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/04/28/everest-2014-cimbing-tibet/) - The #Everest 2014 season continues with over 100 climbers on the north side of Everest. Also a hint at what the future of climbing on the south side may become.
- [K2: House's Chimney to Camp 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/07/19/k2-housess-chimney-camp-2/) - Climbing to Camp 2 on K2 using House's Chimney
- [Everest 2015: Life in Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/04/02/everest-2015-life-in-kathmandu/) - Arriving in Kathmandu always brings a wave of emotions. This is my 10th visit here since 1997 and every time, I’m struck by the contradiction of poverty and smiles
- [K2 2015 Coverage: Teams arrive at K2 Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/06/27/k2-2015-coverage-teams-arrive-at-k2-base-camp/) - After their long trek up the Baltoro Glacier, many teams arrived at the Broad Peak and K2 Base Camps this weekend.
- [K2 2015 Coverage: K2 Summit Bid Ends, Avalanches puts season at risk - Update 2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/07/24/k2-2015-coverage-k2-summit-bid-ends-avalanches-puts-season-at-risk/) - K2 2015 Coverage: K2 Summit Bid Ends, Avalanches puts season at risk
- [autumn Himalayan Update:  Teams Start/Stop on Summit Pushes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/09/24/updates-from-autumn-himalayan-climbs-teams-start-stop/) - Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki is at 6900 meters on Everest but unstable weather forced many teams to abandoned their summit push on other 8000m mountains.
- [Updates from autumn Himalayan Climbs: Teams Abandon Summit Pushes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/09/27/updates-from-autumn-himalayan-climbs-teams-abandon-summit-pushes/) - This weekend we saw the sole climber on Everest give up and many teams on Manaslu abort their attempts.
- [autumn Himalayan Update:  Another Everest Attempt, Manaslu Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/10/01/updates-from-autumn-himalayan-climbs-another-everest-attempt-manaslu-summits/) - Over 83 climbers have summited Manaslu when others turned back. Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki is going for another try to summit Everest, alone with no O's after thwarted attempt last week.
- [Everest/Lhotse 2016: Arrival at Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/04/10/everestlhotse-2016-arrival-at-base-camp/) - We have arrived at a busy Everest Base camp
- [Everest/Lhotse 2016: Winds Let Up for Next Summit Push](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/05/18/everestlhotse-2016-winds-let-summit-push/) - As many as 400 climbers could summit Everest from Nepal over the next 4 days after a storm delayed progress. And a Cyclone is on the way! #everest2016
- [Everest/Lhotse 2016: May 21 - Summits, Frostbite and Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/05/21/everestlhotse-2016-may-21-summits-frostbite-deaths/) - In spite of good climbing conditions, 2 people died while over 100 summited on both side of #everest2016
- [Everest/Lhotse 2016: Arnold Coster Statement on Climber's Deaths](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/05/22/everestlhotse-2016arnold-coster-statement-climbers-deaths/) - The guide of the two deaths this past weekend issues a statement plus the 5th death is reported and a rescue underway. #everest2016 Dr Marisa Elizabeth Strydom, Eric Arnold
- [Everest/Lhotse 2016: Why People Die on Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/05/23/everestlhotse-2016-people-die-everest/) - Why did 3 people die on Everest this weekend and what can be done to prevent more deaths? #everest2016
- [autumn Himalayan Climbing Begins](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/09/06/autumn-himalayan-climbing-begins/) - A roundup of the climbing across the Himalayas as the area approaches autumn. Also,climber deaths in Pakistan.
- [autumn Himalayan Climbing Update 6 -  Winding Down](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/10/02/autumn-himalayan-climbing-update-6-winding-down/) - Himalayan Peaks Manaslu and Cho Oyu saw over 100 summits this weekend while Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki struggles on Everest.
- [Death on Colorado's Longs Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/10/03/death-colorados-longs-peak/) - A climber fell to his death on Colorado's Longs Peak on October 1. I look at my favorite peak plus a video of the route.
- [Everest 2017: Weather Watch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/03/22/everest-2017-weather-watch/) - With tough weather already stopping Himalayan expeditions early this year, what will happen on Everest? I ask two experts. #Everest 2017
- [Everest 2017: Ice Serac Release Stalls Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/10/everest-2017-ice-serac-release-stalls-climbing/) - The fixed lines were buried by an Ice Serac release in the Khumbu Icefall today. No injuries. Climbers turned back. #Everest 2017
- [Everest 2017: Base Camp Begins to Fill Up](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/12/everest-2017-base-camp-begins-full/) - The trek continues to Everest Base Camp for climbers while some are already there and a few prepare to enter the Khumbu Icefall. #Everest2017
- [Everest 2017: Into the Western Cwm](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/19/everest-2017-western-cwm/) - Climbers on #Everest2017 are moving higher for their first acclimatization rotation. The first night in the Western Cwm or at ABC is a shock
- [Everest 2017: Is Everest a Garbage Dump?](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/20/everest-2017-is-everest-a-garbage-dump/) - Everest is very busy but are climbers trashing the mountain? #Everest2017
- [Everest 2017: Building the Climbing Route](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/21/everest-2017-building-the-climbing-route/) - The ropes are getting fixed towards the summit of Everest this week. Why do climbers need rope and who does the work?
- [Everest 2017: The 'other' Himalayan Mountains Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/04/28/everest-2017-the-other-himalayan-mountains-update/) - There are expeditions on eight 8000m peaks this spring. A review of how the teams are fighting high winds all over with some stunning photos. #Everest2017
- [Everest 2017: First Summits!!](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/11/everest-2017-first-summits/) - 1st Summits by Sherpas to summit from Tibet in excellent conditions. Why is the Nepal side socked in and when will it change? #Everest2017
- [Everest 2017: More North Summits 16 May, South Underway - Update 3](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/15/everest-2017-summtis-16-may/) - The North side of Everest saw over 20 more summits on Tuesday 16 May
- [Everest 2017: More Summits, Rescues and Dots - Updated](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/21/everest-2017-more-summits/) - Over 100 new summits 22 May with 5 helicopter evacuations plus a special summit by my friend - Follow the Dot. #Everest2017
- [Everest 2017: Huge Wave 3 with a Traverse and Speed Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/22/everest-2017-huge-wave-3-traverse-speed-summit/) - Updates from #Everest2017 weekend summits including KIlian Jornet and a rare north-south traverse
- [Everest 2017: Wind Returns with Vengeance, Costly Body Retrievals](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/23/everest-2017-wind-returns-vengence/) - Families want bodies returned from #Everest2017 at any cost, including more lives. Huge winds hit summit. Illegal Traverse
- [Everest 2017: South Col Dead Body Report was Wrong](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/25/everest-2017-south-col-dead-body-report-wrong/) - Report was wrong: 4 dead found on Everest.
- [Everest 2017: Season Summary - A Mountain with Two Sides](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/06/05/everest-2017-season-summary-a-mountain-with-two-sides/) - Over 600 summits and 7 deaths including Ueli Steck, winds tested teams on #Everest2017. Many tried to summit without Os, few succeeded. A normal season.
- [K2 2017 Season Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/06/18/k2-2017-season-coverage/) - Teams are trekking the Baltoro Glacier towards K2 for the 2017 season.

## Pages

- [The Blog on alanarnette.com](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/) - Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
- [Subscribe to Blog via Email](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/email-notification/) - I regularly post about mountain climbing and my experiences on the 8,000-meter peaks, such as Everest and K2. I post several times a week during the April, May, and July summit months. Each weekend, I provide a Weekend Update and a podcast you can listen to on popular platforms or watch on YouTube. As an
- [Contact Alan](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/contact-alan/) - All emails are filtered, so please use the correct subject. General EMAIL : If you send me an email, I will do my best to return a thoughtful response based only on my personal experiences. Limitations on Email: I do not give direct advice except thru Summit Coach because it is impossible for me to
- [Reader Polls](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/reader-polls/) - These are the current polls running on alanarnette.com.
- [Background](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summits-climb-for-alzheimers/background/) - The 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything: On behalf of Alzheimer's individuals, their caregivers and families, I am raising $1M for Alzheimer's research and general awareness. The first phase was through climbing the 7 Summits in one year. These are the highest peak on each of the 7 continents. You can read about
- [News](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/news/)
- [Resources](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summits-climb-for-alzheimers/resources/) - Alzheimer's Resources The following websites have information available to you, view your family and caregivers to learn more about Alzheimer’s disease and ongoing research: The Cure Alzheimer's Fund Alzheimer's Association National Institute of Aging Alliance for Aging Research Alzheimer's Disease International Alzheimer’s Foundation of America Family Caregiver Alliance National Alliance for Caregiving UsAgainstAlzheimer's
- [7 Summits Dispatches](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summits-climb-for-alzheimers/7-summits-dispatches/)
- [Ida’s Story](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summits-climb-for-alzheimers/idas-story/) - We started noticing my mother's memories had slipped in her early 70's. It was a huge surprise since she was always a sharp, search vibrate person. In fact she was the "memory keeper" for our entire family and her 8 brothers and sisters. During the 2003 Christmas holiday, we went to a hotel for their
- [7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summits-climb-for-alzheimers/)

## Categories

- [Aconcagua 2008](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/aconcagua-2008/)
- [Alzheimer's](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/alzheimers/)
- [California 14ers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/california-14ers/)
- [Climbing News](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/climbing-news/)
- [Colorado 14ers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/colorado-14ers/)
- [Denali 2007](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/denali-2007/)
- [Everest 2008 Climb](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2008-climb/)
- [7 Summits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/)
- [Orizaba 2008](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/orizaba-2008/)
- [Shishapangma 2007](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/shishapangma-2007/)
- [Everest News](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-news/)
- [Vinson 2010](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/vinson-2010/)
- [Musings](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/musings/)
- [Aconcagua 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/aconcagua-2011/)
- [Everest 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/everest-2011/)
- [Denali 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/denali-2011/)
- [Elbrus 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/elbrus-2011/)
- [Kilimanjaro 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/kilimanjaro-2011/)
- [Everest](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/)
- [Carstensz Pyramid 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/carstensz-pyramid-2011/)
- [Kosciuszko 2011](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/7-summit/kosciuszko-2011/)
- [Everest 2012 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2012-coverage/)
- [Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/interview/)
- [Alpamayo 2012](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/alpamayo-2012/)
- [Everest 2013 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2013-coverage/)
- [Everest Popular Posts](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-popular-posts/)
- [Discussion](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/discussion/)
- [Manaslu 2013](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/manaslu-2013/)
- [2010 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/2010-coverage/)
- [Everest 2014 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/2014-coverage/)
- [K2 2014 Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2014/)
- [Everest 2015 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/2015-coverage/)
- [Project 8000](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/project-8000/)
- [Lhotse 2015 Climb](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/lhotse-2015/)
- [Nepal Earthquake](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/nepal-earthquake/)
- [K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/)
- [K2 2015 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2015-coverage/)
- [Rainier 2015](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/rainier-2015/)
- [Rainier 2012](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/rainier-2012/)
- [Everest 2016 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2016-coverage/)
- [Lhotse 2016 Climb](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/lhotse-2016/)
- [K2 2016 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2016-coverage/)
- [Everest 2017 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2017-coverage/)
- [Summit Coach](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/summit-coach/)
- [K2 2017 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2017-coverage/)
- [Everest 2018 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2018-coverage/)
- [K2 2018 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2018-coverage/)
- [Island Peak 2018](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/island-peak-2018/)
- [Everest 2019 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2019-coverage/)
- [K2 2019 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2019-coverage/)
- [Ecuador Volcanoes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ecuador-volcanoes/)
- [Chimborazo](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ecuador-volcanoes/chimborazo/)
- [Cotopaxi](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ecuador-volcanoes/cotopaxi/)
- [Cayambe](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ecuador-volcanoes/cayambe/)
- [Weekend Update](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/weekend-update/)
- [Bolivia 2019](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/bolivia-2019/)
- [Everest 2020 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2020-coverage/)
- [K2 2020 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2020-coverage/)
- [K2 Winter](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-winter/)
- [Everest 2021 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2021-coverage/)
- [Broad Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/broad-peak/)
- [Annapurna 2021 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/annapurna-2021-coverage/)
- [K2 2021 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2021-coverage/)
- [Denali Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/denali-coverage/)
- [Everest 2022 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2022-coverage/)
- [Annapurna](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/annapurna/)
- [Adrian Ballinger](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/guides/adrian-ballinger/)
- [K2 2022 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2022-coverage/)
- [Manaslu 2022 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/manaslu-2013/manaslu-2022-coverage/)
- [Podcast](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/podcast/)
- [Everest 2023 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2023-coverage/)
- [K2 2023 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2-2023-coverage/)
- [Manaslu 2023 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/manaslu-2013/manaslu-2023-coverage/)
- [K2 2023 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2023-coverage-k2/)
- [Everest 2024 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2024-coverage/)
- [Everyday Everest Podcast](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everyday-everest-podcast/)
- [K2 2024 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2024-coverage/)
- [Manaslu 2024 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/manaslu-2013/manaslu-2024-coverage/)
- [Everest 2025 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2025-coverage/)
- [North America](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/north-america/)
- [Oceania](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/oceania/)
- [Europe](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/europe/)
- [Himalaya](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/8000ers/himalaya/)
- [Denali](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/north-america/denali/)
- [Denali 2001](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/north-america/denali/denali-2001/)
- [Rainier](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/north-america/rainier-north-america/)
- [Grand Teton](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/north-america/grand-teton/)
- [Ben Nevis](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/europe/ben-nevis/)
- [Mont Blanc](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/europe/mont-blanc/)
- [Elbrus](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/europe/elbrus/)
- [Africa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/africa/)
- [Kilimanjaro](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/africa/kilimanjaro/)
- [Antarctica](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/antarctica/)
- [Vinson](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/antarctica/vinson/)
- [Kosciuszko](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/oceania/kosciuszko/)
- [Asia](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/asia/)
- [Nepal](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/asia/nepal/)
- [8000ers](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/8000ers/)
- [Carstensz Pyramid](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/oceania/carstensz-pyramid/)
- [Live Interview](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/live-interview/)
- [K2 2025 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2/k2-2025-coverage/)
- [Manaslu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/manaslu/)
- [Nepal](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/nepal-2/)
- [Everest 2026 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2026-coverage/)
- [Garrett Madison](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/guides/garrett-madison/)
- [Guides](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/guides/)

## Tags

- [Denali 2011 Audio Dispatch](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/denali2011_audio/)
- [14er](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/14er/)
- [8000m](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/8000m/)
- [AAI](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/aai/)
- [Action Wipes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/action-wipes/)
- [aerogel](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/aerogel/)
- [Ama Dablam](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ama-dablam/)
- [Apple](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/apple/)
- [Body Results](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/body-results/)
- [Capital Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/capital-peak/)
- [Cho Oyu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/cho-oyu/)
- [CORSAR](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/corsar/)
- [Cure Alzheimer's Fund](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/cure-alzheimers-fund/)
- [Discovery Channel](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/discovery-channel/)
- [Everest 2010](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-2010/)
- [Everest 2010 Coverage](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-2010-coverage/)
- [Everest Base Camp Trek](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-base-camp-trek/)
- [Everest: Beyond the Limits](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-beyond-the-limits/)
- [Everest:Beyond the Limit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everestbeyond-the-limit/)
- [gear](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/gear/)
- [Himex](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/himex/)
- [Ice Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ice-climbing/)
- [iMac](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/imac/)
- [IMG](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/img/)
- [Johanna Ernst](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/johanna-ernst/)
- [K2](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/k2/)
- [Kala Patar](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/kala-patar/)
- [Kathmandu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/kathmandu/)
- [Khumbu](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/khumbu/)
- [Kilimanjaro](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/kilimanjaro/)
- [Lhasa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/lhasa/)
- [Lino Lacedelli](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/lino-lacedelli/)
- [Little Bear](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/little-bear/)
- [Longs Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/longs-peak/)
- [Manaslu Summit](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/manaslu-summit/)
- [Mountaineering](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mountaineering/)
- [movie](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/movie/)
- [Mt. Hood](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mt-hood/)
- [Olympics](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/olympics/)
- [Ouray](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ouray/)
- [Outside Magazine](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/outside-magazine/)
- [Photography](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/photography/)
- [pine beetles](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/pine-beetles/)
- [Ptarmigan](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ptarmigan/)
- [Puja](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/puja/)
- [Pumori](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/pumori/)
- [Quandry Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/quandry-peak/)
- [REI](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/rei/)
- [Rest of Everest Podcast](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/rest-of-everest-podcast/)
- [Rocky Mountain National Park](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/rocky-mountain-national-park/)
- [Sherpas](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/sherpas/)
- [Site News](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/site-news/)
- [ski](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ski/)
- [Sport Climbing](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/sport-climbing/)
- [SPOT](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/spot/)
- [Teva Mountain Games](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/teva-mountain-games/)
- [Tibet](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/tibet/)
- [Tomaz Humar](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/tomaz-humar/)
- [Twitter](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/twitter/)
- [Video](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/video/)
- [Vinson](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/vinson/)
- [Whitney](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/whitney/)
- [Yuichiro Miura](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/yuichiro-miura/)
- [Everest Coverage 2009](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-coverage-2009/)
- [Everest 2009](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-2009/)
- [Mt. Meeker](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mt-meeker/)
- [Matt Moniz](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/matt-moniz/)
- [Mt. Wilson](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mt-wilson/)
- [El Diente](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/el-diente/)
- [Crestone Peak](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/crestone-peak/)
- [Crestone Needle](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/crestone-needle/)
- [Eric Larsen](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/eric-larsen/)
- [Ang Tshering](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ang-tshering/)
- [Aubrey Sacco](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/aubrey-sacco/)
- [Nobukazu Kuriki](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/nobukazu-kuriki/)
- [Oh Eun-Sun](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/oh-eun-sun/)
- [Edurne Pasaban](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/edurne-pasaban/)
- [Alberto Zerain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/alberto-zerain/)
- [Christian Stangl](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/christian-stangl/)
- [Medical](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/medical/)
- [SteriPEN](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/steripen/)
- [Big Agnes](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/big-agnes/)
- [Black Diamond](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/black-diamond/)
- [Lama Geshe](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/lama-geshe/)
- [Eric Weihenmayer](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/eric-weihenmayer/)
- [Chhewwang Nima Sherpa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/chhewwang-nima-sherpa/)
- [American Alpine Club](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/american-alpine-club/)
- [Steve House](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/steve-house/)
- [Pemba Dorje](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/pemba-dorje/)
- [Tseten Sherpa](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/tseten-sherpa/)
- [Fishtail Air](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/fishtail-air/)
- [Ncell](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ncell/)
- [Yeti](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/yeti/)
- [Mike Allsop](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mike-allsop/)
- [NFCA](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/nfca/)
- [Gerry Roach](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/gerry-roach/)
- [EverestER](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everester/)
- [Flat Stanley](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/flat-stanley/)
- [Denali 2001](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/denali-2001/)
- [Mountain Trip](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mountain-trip/)
- [Jim Davidson](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/jim-davidson/)
- [Kevin Vaughn](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/kevin-vaughn/)
- [The Ledge](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/the-ledge/)
- [Mt. Rainier](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mt-rainier/)
- [Senator Mark Udall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/senator-mark-udall/)
- [Aconcagua](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/aconcagua/)
- [Serengeti](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/serengeti/)
- [Steve Jobs](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/steve-jobs/)
- [Training](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/training/)
- [Bill Burke](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/bill-burke/)
- [Lhotse](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/lhotse/)
- [Everest Base Camp](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/everest-base-camp/)
- [Russell Brice](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/russell-brice/)
- [Grant Rawlinson](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/grant-rawlinson/)
- [Cian O'Brolchain](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/cian-obrolchain/)
- [Ben Nevis](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/ben-nevis/)
- [Leanna Shuttleworth](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/leanna-shuttleworth/)
- [Mike Moniz](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/mike-moniz/)
- [Altitude Junkies](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/altitude-junkies/)
- [Phil Crampton](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/phil-crampton/)
- [ADI](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/adi/)
- [First Ascent](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/first-ascent/)
- [West Ridge](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/west-ridge/)
- [Lincoln Hall](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/lincoln-hall/)
- [Blog of the Day](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/blog-of-the-day/)
- [Lukla](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/lukla/)
- [Sandra Leduc](https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/tag/sandra-leduc/)
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