K2oo6 WorldClimb Dispatches
Broad Peak and K2
I always wanted to visit the Himalayas in Pakistan. The mountains are legendary: Gasherbrum I,Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and, of course, K2. The view from the confluence of three glaciers at Concordia is live postcard few get to see in person. In the summer of 2006, along with a team managed by Field Touring Alpine (FTA), I attempted Broad Peak (26,401') and planned to make a good effort on K2 (28,250').
I reached 21,000' on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there.
I sent frequent dispatches using a system that includes a digital camera, PDA and sat phone.
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Broad Peak Base CampPosted on June 14, 2006 11:15 PM U.S. Mountain Daylight Time
For the first time last night we had all the team together for dinner. It was bitter sweet given our five trekkers were leaving today.
Everyone is in good health with a few exceptions for headaches and being out of breath due to the altitude. We are at 4800m/15800'. JJ, Ryan and our 7 High Altitude Porters (HAPs) left BC this morning about 5AM to begin fixing the line and establishing Camp1 at 5100m. I had part of the story correct of the Australian and Austrian teams going to C3 the other day. They did but they did not fix any lines.
A huge risk in my view since just the climb to C1 is dangerous and a fall would be serious. Today, several climbers followed JJ and team to get some time on the Hill. They intend to tag C1 and return to BC this afternoon. Others are here in BC taking another rest day before going up tomorrow.
Basecamp is comfortable. We each have a Eureka! tents set up so each person has their own personal tent. We have a huge dinning tent that seats 22 of us comfortably. There is constant hot water for tea or coffee. The meals have been quite good thus far. Our main cook was trained at Islamabad hotels and it is showing. Last night we had rice, dall and potatoes in a very tasty cream sauce. Quite nice actually!
So here we are. I left home over two weeks ago and just arrived at BC. It has been a journey to say the least thus far. My health has returned however I continue to take it slowly. I plan on going with the team to C1 tomorrow. With our trekkers leaving the first third of this adventure is over: trek to BC, climb Broad Peak, Climb K2.
Climb on! Alan