K2 and Broad Peak in 2006
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I always wanted to visit the Himalayas in Pakistan. The mountains are legendary: Gasherbrum I,Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and, of course, K2. The view from the confluence of three glaciers at Concordia is live postcard few get to see in person. In the summer of 2006, along with a team managed by Field Touring Alpine (FTA), I attempted Broad Peak (26,401') and planned to make a good effort on K2 (28,250').

I reached 21,000' on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there.

I sent frequent dispatches using a system that includes a digital camera, PDA and sat phone.

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Posted on June 29, 2006 02:54 AM U.S. Mountain Daylight Time

We had three more summits last night. John Dowd, Mick Murphy and Marcus Dell all made the true summit of Broad Peak in somewhat difficult conditions.

The three left from Camp 4. As I have been reporting the snow is very deep from Camp 4 to the Col and then lighter on the summit ridge on the way to the true summit. By working together they broke trail and reestablished the route that Ryan, JJ ands the HAPs had previously put in. The weather has been intermittent with snow squalls and high winds but this team found a gap allowing them to scramble to the summit and back safely. As of this writing they are returning to the lower camps from Camp 4. There were cheers in BC for all these summitters as they are the first non-professionals to make the summit from any team in 2006. Also there were cheers for John and Mick being the first Irish to summit a Karakorum 8000m mountain in history. Well done Lads. There is still time for the rest of the team climbing Broad Peak but it is clear everyone needs to work together to summit this year. The current plan is to establish the K2 Base Camp around July 12 and stop climbing Broad Peak then. Congratulations to all our summitters! Climb On! Alan