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Site Update Notifications and Expedition Dispatches

This is the home for site notifications and the dispatches from my The Road Back to Mt. Everest. This was a year long journey where I attempted to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000 for Alzheimer's research. In preparation, I attempted Denali in June 2007 and Shisha Pangma in September 2007 then summitted Aconcagua and Orizaba in January 2008 and finally returned to Everest in April 2008. The dispatches can be found through this page.

Alzheimer's is a horrible disease that impacts so many. Researchers are making great progress but more is needed. The Cure Alzheimer's Fund is a non-profit organization that raises money and funds targeted research with the highest probability of slowing, stopping or reversing Alzheimer's disease.

The Fund is supported by grants from three families that covers all of their overhead. This means 100% of your donations go directly to Alzheimer's research! None go to Alan's climbing expenses. I encourage you to read more about the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at their website and to make your tax deductible donation today to Memories are Everything through the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. You can still make a contribution.

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« Update on Chinese Decision to Close Everest - updated | Main | Cruical Week for Everest 2008 »

Nepal to Limit South Side Climbers from May 1-10

southbc.jpgOn Friday, March 14, Nepal's Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announced that all climbers on Everest's Nepal side will not be allowed to climb above Base Camp at 17,500' from May 1 through May 10. It is not clear if climbers will be allowed to go above BC prior to May 1.

While there was no mention of the limitations being related to the Chinese's more stringent limitations on the North, the connection is obvious.

This now makes a complicated situation even more complex. North side teams, including ours, have been investigating alternatives given the Chinese March 10th decision to refuse entry to all expeditions on Everest until May 10th - presumably after they carry the Olympic torch to the summit, weather permitting.

Lahsa Aspho.JPGThis morning there are reports from the BBC and others of severe violence in Lhasa including fires, protests and strong police and army presence. The Sera Monastery is reported to be surrounded by 2,000 policemen to keep the several hundred Monks from leaving.


I visited the Monastery last year on our Shisha Pangma climb. I found it to be a very active place full of life and excitement. monk in temple.JPGEach Wednesday, they debate one another on Buddhists teachings in a tree-filled courtyard. I have a video of it on the side bar. The public can catch the debates - it was quite entertaining.

lhotseface (18).jpgOne of the multiple impacts on these political decisions are on the Sherpa and Tibetan people. They depend on tourism and mountaineering for a significant portion of their income each year. This income feeds their families, funds their children's education and is re-invested into their regions for teahouses, shops and restaurants. It is vital for their growth.

While myself and other climbers are anxious about our opportunity to climb Mt. Everest, the Tibetans and Sherpas are fearful for their future. A sense of perspective is important at times like this.

I remain optimistic that a compromise will be reached on both climbing routes that will allow the Chinese to accomplish their goal, the Tibetans and Sherpas to have work and for climbers to climb.

Climb On!

Alan

The local time at Mount Everest is

everestroutemap.jpg

This page contains a single entry from the expedition posted on March 14, 2008 9:49 AM.

The previous post from this expedition was Update on Chinese Decision to Close Everest - updated.

The next post from this expedition is Cruical Week for Everest 2008.

Many more posts and VIDEOS can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

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Typical Everest South Col Route Schedule

    March 27 - Leave US
    March 29 - Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal
    March 30,31 - Kathmandu
    April 1 - Fly to Lukla(9200'/2804m)
    April 2-10 - Trek to Base Camp (17,500'/5334m)
    April 11-13 - Setup BC
    Apr 14 - 29 May - Climbing Period:
    - C1 (19,500'/5943m)
    - C2 (21,000'/6400m)
    - C3 (23,500'/7162m)
    - South Col (26,300'/8016m)
    - Summit (29,035'/8850m)
    May 30 - Disassemble BC
    May 31 - Trek to Lukla
    June 1 - Fly to Kathmandu
    June 2,3,4 - Weather days or Kathmandu
    June 5 - Depart for US