The Road Back to Mt. Everest
Expedition Dispatches

In 2007 and 2008, I took on a challenging goal: The Road Back to Mt. Everest. This was a year long journey where I attempted to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000 for Alzheimer's research. In preparation, I attempted Denali in June 2007 and Shisha Pangma in September 2007 then summitted Aconcagua and Orizaba in January 2008 and finally returned to Everest in April 2008. In between I climbed more of my Colorado 14ers. Using a system of a digital camera, PDA and satellite phone, I sent dispatches directly from the climbs. You can read the dispatches.

Alzheimer's is a horrible disease that impacts so many. Researchers are making great progress but more is needed. The Cure Alzheimer's Fund is a non-profit organization that raises money and funds targeted research with the highest probability of slowing, stopping or reversing Alzheimer's disease.

The Fund is supported by grants from three families that covers all of their overhead. This means 100% of your donations go directly to Alzheimer's research! None go to Alan's climbing expenses. I encourage you to read more about the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at their website and to make your tax deductible donation today to Memories are Everything through the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. You can still make a contribution.

Please dontate today. Thank you. Dontate Today to Cure Alzheimer's

« Pujas: A Mystery | Main | Dispatches will resume in mid-May »

The Khumbu Icefall: Gatekeeper for Everest

The Khumbu Icefall – 2,000 feet of moving ice – serves as the gateway to almost all routes on Everest’s south side. It is incredible to think that the early Swiss and British expeditions made this ascent in leather boots with nails for crampons and trees for ladders.

Today we made our entry into the ice fall.

The weather has been mixed the last few days with clear mornings, cloudy afternoons and some snow squalls. It has been very noisy at Base Camp with snow and rock avalanches on all sides. I don't remember this much activity before. It is extremely rare for even the snow blast to reach BC but it is exciting nonetheless. The Khumbu Icefall dominates our view at BC. Everyone looks at it with apprehension and anticipation. It truly is the gateway to Everest.

We left at a very reasonable 9:00am intending to go only halfway up.

The lower part of the icefall is a gradual incline of maybe 5 to 10 degrees. There are no ladders for almost 700’. But the route undulates like a wild dragon and you begin to feel the altitude since this is the first time above Base Camp.

Everyone did well and soon we were at our first ladder. I am pleased that the icefall seems slightly safer this year with fewer large seracs towering over the route and also fewer large crevasses - at least up to the area called the popcorn.

Everyone enjoyed taking pictures of their feet on a ladder and making their first crossings. As the clouds moved in we retreated to BC for a well deserved lunch.

I uploaded a video of me crossing one of the ladders. You can find it under expeditions videos on the right side of the main dispatch page. I hope it gives you a feel for crossing the ladders without upsetting your stomach!

Another rest day tomorrow.

Remember: Memories are Everything

Climb On!

Alan

Comments (2)

Clive Jones:

Hi Alan,

Clive Jones here from Shishapangma last year. I'll be with you (in spirit) every step of the way.

Remember the only thing you actually need to understand is yourself.

Have you thought about what you will do differently this time to get to the summit?

Stay safe my friend.

Tracy:

Alan, the ladder crossing video is AWESOME!! Are you using a Point Of View cam? Very good quality. Love your dispatches. I'm following your progress all the way to the top of the world. Keep up the good work. Best of Luck.
TJ

The local time at Mount Everest is

everestroutemap.jpg

This page contains a single entry from the expedition posted on April 12, 2008 5:20 AM.

The previous post from this expedition was Pujas: A Mystery.

The next post from this expedition is Dispatches will resume in mid-May.

Many more posts and VIDEOS can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

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Typical Everest South Col Route Schedule

    March 27 - Leave US
    March 29 - Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal
    March 30,31 - Kathmandu
    April 1 - Fly to Lukla(9200'/2804m)
    April 2-10 - Trek to Base Camp (17,500'/5334m)
    April 11-13 - Setup BC
    Apr 14 - 29 May - Climbing Period:
    - C1 (19,500'/5943m)
    - C2 (21,000'/6400m)
    - C3 (23,500'/7162m)
    - South Col (26,300'/8016m)
    - Summit (29,035'/8850m)
    May 30 - Disassemble BC
    May 31 - Trek to Lukla
    June 1 - Fly to Kathmandu
    June 2,3,4 - Weather days or Kathmandu
    June 5 - Depart for US