K2oo6 WorldClimb Dispatches Broad Peak and K2 |
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I always wanted to visit the Himalayas in Pakistan. The mountains are legendary: Gasherbrum I,Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and, of course, K2. The view from the confluence of three glaciers at Concordia is live postcard few get to see in person. In the summer of 2006, along with a team managed by Field Touring Alpine (FTA), I attempted Broad Peak (26,401') and planned to make a good effort on K2 (28,250'). I reached 21,000' on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there. I sent frequent dispatches using a system that includes a digital camera, PDA and sat phone. |
Click here for the dispatch home and videos |
Click here for the dispatch home and videos
PostScript: K2 Russian Deaths and Ger update plus Marcus' Summit ReportPosted on August 15, 2006 09:45 AM U.S. Mountain Daylight Time Tragedy on K2 as 4 Russian climbers were killed in an avalanche near the summit. Banjo, who climbed with WIlco, Ger and others on our team, escaped along with Jacek and 3 Russian climbers according to his site. My sincere condolences go out to the Russian's family and friends. I can confirm that all our 29 team members are back home except for Mick who should be in transit today. Mountains are dangerous in the best of times. I have attached an update directly from Ger on his condition. An amazing experience for him. Marcus was kind enough to give me permission to repost an email he sent out to his friends on his Broad Peak summit. It is quite a read and reveals the dangers of even an "easy" 8000m peak. Thanks Marcus and Ger. Well done. Please Enjoy: From Ger: Thanks everyone for your well wishes. I'm recovering nicely alright here in Ireland. Unfortunately I can't tell you a whole lot about the accident - only what Joelle and Mick told me about it afterwards. The details of the day and the 2 days before are slowly returning though. Mostly the funny parts. Thankfully neither Mick, Wilco, Joelle , Banjo or Jackcek were in the path of the rock avalanche. Wilco was above, Joelle was closest to me in a rock section before the snow field I was on and Mick and Banjo bellow in camp1. I'm not too sure where Jackcek was - either at camp1 or about to arrive there. For the descent it seems like I was merely operating in the present tense as I've no recollection of it yet and yet, according to Mick, I was descending unassisted. The Russians and Japanese then met us (Banjo, Mick and myself)at ABC and accompanied me back to basecamp. I'm extremely grateful to a lot of people involved here of course - too numerous to mention. Also I have to say that FTA and ATP were extrodinaire in their handling of the incident. Thank you. Sorry to have given all my friends a scare though. One thing's for sure, next time I'll have a sat phone of my own. I would have been able to aliviate a lot of the worry at home with one simple phone call. Finally had a CT scan. IRL lads say they were mad in Pakistan not to give me one..surprise surprise. :-)5mm depression fracture on one side and a minor fracture that runs along the base of the skull on the other. Heading to another hospital tomorrow where they are likely to operate - stick in a screw and pull it out. They might decide not to due the time lapsed since the accident. That's the latest. From Marcus: Traveling and climbing in Pakistan is a huge adventure starting the minute one gets off the plane. Unlike Nepal, reaching the climbs in Pakistan is not straight forward. Ten days were required to make the trip from Islamabad to Broad Peak base camp. The trip up the Karakoram Highway and Indus Highway (Imodium required) make the road from Vancouver to Whistler look like the 401 Highway in Ontario (wide, straight and smooth). We were informed by our driver that in most years they loose at least one bus into the Indus River, never to be seen again. |