The Road Back to Mt. Everest
Expedition Dispatches
In 2007 and 2008, I am undertaking a challenging goal: The Road back to Mt. Everest. This is a year long journey where I will attempt to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000 for Alzheimer’s research. In preparation, I attempted Denali in June 2007, now Shishapangma in September 2007, next Orizaba in January 2008 and then Everest. In between I am climbing more of my Colorado 14ers. Using a system of a digital camera, PDA and satellite phone, I will send dispatches directly from the climbs. Register for email notifications below.

Alzheimer's is a horrible disease that impacts so many. Researchers are making great progress but more is needed. The Cure Alzheimer's Fund is a non-profit organization that raises money and funds targeted research with the highest probability of slowing, stopping or reversing Alzheimer's disease.

The Fund is supported by grants from three families that covers all of their overhead. This means 100% of your donations go directly to Alzheimer's research! None go to Alan's climbing expenses. I encourage you to read more about the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at their website and to make your tax deductible donation today to Memories are Everything through the Cure Alzheimer's Fund.
Please dontate today. Thank you. Dontate Today to Cure Alzheimer's

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Made it to Talkeetna

Made it to Talkeetna,a small tourist town serving as the gateway to Denali National Park. I visited the National Park Service headquarters to see how the season has gone thus far - not good news.

As of today, June 11, there have been 1176 climbers registered to attempt all routes on Denali. Of the 547 who have finished their attempts only 193 have reached the summit. That is a 33% success rate. Normally about half summit each year.

The 2007 season has extremely high winds pinning down many teams at the Basin Camp at 14,000'. There have also been 41 people fall into crevasses thus far and of course, 5 deaths in the area. So once again Denali proves it reputation as one of the world's toughest mountains.

I meet up with team tomorrow morning. I rode up from Ancorage with Mike, the tattoo studio owner from New York. A very nice guy and, as you would expect, covered in colorful tattoos! I expect to learn about the business after spending the next three weeks with him.

We will have a briefing with Park Rangers tomorrow to understand the various rules. As a US National Park, Denali is tightly controlled for pollution, unsafe behavoir and overall saftey. We also pay a $210 permit fee each which inlcudes helicopter resuce in dire cases.

It is raining today with temps in the 50's. On the Hill, highs range from 5 to 35 and lows from -10 to +10. The winds have finally calmed down a bit allowing a slew of summits the past few days. Let's hope it continues when we go for the top near the end of June.

After a 40 minute bush plane ride, we will be dropped off at 7200' on the Kahiltna glacier to start the climb.
Next dispatch from the glacier!

Climb On!


Comments (2)

Paul Adler [TypeKey Profile Page]:

Hi Alan,
Great to read about you returning to Everest for another try. I am impressed with the number of mountains that you are going to climb this year. I am also thinking of going to Shishapangma this coming fall - Will Cross, Blair Falahey & Dawa Stevens are planning to go there with Asian Trekking as well.
Best of luck with Denali. Will be following along. Cheers, Paul.

Eugene from France [TypeKey Profile Page]:

Hi Alan,

I am very pleased to see your progress on the mountain.
Climb on and make safe as you can.

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This page contains a single entry from the expedition posted on June 11, 2007 5:49 PM.

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