The Road Back to Mt. Everest
Expedition Dispatches
 
 

In 2007 and 2008, I took on a challenging goal: The Road Back to Mt. Everest. This was a year long journey where I attempted to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000 for Alzheimer's research. In preparation, I attempted Denali in June 2007 and Shisha Pangma in September 2007 then summitted Aconcagua and Orizaba in January 2008 and finally returned to Everest in April 2008. In between I climbed more of my Colorado 14ers. Using a system of a digital camera, PDA and satellite phone, I sent dispatches directly from the climbs. You can read the dispatches.

Alzheimer's is a horrible disease that impacts so many. Researchers are making great progress but more is needed. The Cure Alzheimer's Fund is a non-profit organization that raises money and funds targeted research with the highest probability of slowing, stopping or reversing Alzheimer's disease.

The Fund is supported by grants from three families that covers all of their overhead. This means 100% of your donations go directly to Alzheimer's research! None go to Alan's climbing expenses. I encourage you to read more about the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at their website and to make your tax deductible donation today to Memories are Everything through the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. You can still make a contribution.

Please dontate today. Thank you. Dontate Today to Cure Alzheimer's

« Cruical Week for Everest 2008 | Main | The Final Leg of the Journey Begins »

Dreaming of Ladders - Return to the South

icefallladder.jpgI will be returning to climb Mt. Everest in 2008! Barring any more surprises we will be on the South Col route, the same one I was on in 2002 and 2003.

I am extremely grateful that our expedition leaders moved swiftly when the Chinese announced restrictions on the north side and secured permits and logistics support on the south as a backup for our team. Also, our entire team including our Nepali Sherpas have agreed to make the switch thus we will be climbing together.

I have mixed feelings but am very excited that our climb will still take place and I will have the opportunity to use my climb to further raise awareness and money for Alzheimer's research. I am still switching my mindset from visualizing climbing the 2nd Step to climbing the Hillary Step!

But more to the point is the turmoil that is happening in Tibet right now and the impact on all involved.

I understand that several major expeditions have canceled their north side climbs and will reschedule for 2009 thus not moving to the south. This will relieve some of the anticipated crowding that could have happened if everyone had gone south.

There continues to be mixed messages. Even today there are various reports that there are not now and never have been any restrictions for south side climbers. Nepal is in the midst of a change of government so some confusion is not unexpected. However, I have grown to respect and trust the Nepalese and will leave for Nepal with that trust in tact.

khumbutrek (72).jpgThe acclimatization schedule will be similar to my previous south climbs even with any limited restrictions. Remember that the jet stream does not usually move away from Everest until the second half of May and the average summit date in recent years has been on or after May 15th.

This is a hard goal I have set for myself between the fund raising and the mountain climbing. The recent events have added to the degree of difficulty. But this is not impossible, it may just be very, very hard. I would encourage everyone out there with a dream, a vision or a goal not to give up when times get tough.

I will post more as new information becomes available but for now, I need to go pack!

Climb On!

Alan

Posted by Alan Arnette on March 18, 2008 11:26 AM |

Comments (2)

Dewey:

Hey Alan, how about an update? And if you do proceed when are you leaving for Nepal? Thanks.

Dewey

Posted by Dewey | March 26, 2008 9:24 AM

Posted on March 26, 2008 09:24

Dave Edge:

Dear Alan

Here's wishing you and the team all the luck imaginable in your attempt to summit Everest. May the weather be kind and the gods benign! We'll be following your despatches from here in South Africa!

Kind regards

Dave

Posted by Dave Edge | March 24, 2008 3:08 AM

Posted on March 24, 2008 03:08

The local time at Mount Everest is

everestroutemap.jpg

This page contains a single entry from the expedition posted on March 18, 2008 11:26 AM.

The previous post from this expedition was Cruical Week for Everest 2008.

The next post from this expedition is The Final Leg of the Journey Begins.

Many more posts and VIDEOS can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

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Typical Everest South Col Route Schedule

    March 27 - Leave US
    March 29 - Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal
    March 30,31 - Kathmandu
    April 1 - Fly to Lukla(9200'/2804m)
    April 2-10 - Trek to Base Camp (17,500'/5334m)
    April 11-13 - Setup BC
    Apr 14 - 29 May - Climbing Period:
    - C1 (19,500'/5943m)
    - C2 (21,000'/6400m)
    - C3 (23,500'/7162m)
    - South Col (26,300'/8016m)
    - Summit (29,035'/8850m)
    May 30 - Disassemble BC
    May 31 - Trek to Lukla
    June 1 - Fly to Kathmandu
    June 2,3,4 - Weather days or Kathmandu
    June 5 - Depart for US


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