Since I am not a professional climber, I used guides on all my big trips or when I need to learn something new. This page is my personal list of favorites expedition companies where I generally only comment when I have first-hand experience or a strong reference from someone I know well. Also, please see the Selecting a Guide page for FAQs on selecting a guide.

Note: the term 'guide' has grown in definition over time. Most of the companies I list on this page offer 'guided' climbs but this does not mean a 1:1 ratio between western guide and client. It means that there is one 'leader' who is on the mountain with many clients at the same time. On large Himalayan peaks it is common to have a wide range of guide to client ratios from 1:1 to 1:4 to 1:20 The large teams supplement the guide/leader ratio with Sherpa Guides (at an addition cost) at ratios from 1:1 up to 1:4 Sherpa to client.

The best companies keep their total clients in a single push under eight with a 1:1 sherpa:client ratio plus at least one, preferably more, experienced western or well-qualified Sherpa guides. And they have several Sherpas on standby at a high camp for emergencies.

With large groups or high ratios, if you get in trouble (fall, illness, or lost) you might not be able to reach your western guide/leader or qualified Sherpa for help. If you really want a true 'guide' then you will pay more than their top price listed but you can get a 1:1 ratio with an experienced western guide. While a company may have a good reputation, your experience could be fantastic or a disaster depending on the on-mountain leadership. Spend as much time understanding, researching and interviewing your leaders and the expedition organization as you do the company and the mountain.

The indicates a company I would seriously consider without hesitation based on their safety record, interaction with customers, summit success and to some extent pricing value. All of this has been sustained over many years and many types of expeditions. The others are good companies but warrant further research depending on the complexity of the climb and the type of experience you desire.

Major Global Guides

(regularly runs trips across the world)

• Adventure Consultants: I used them on Everest in 2003 and 2002 and Ama Dablam in 2000. They operate out Wanaka, New Zealand and run expeditions all around the world especially in the Himalayas. Their prices are amongst the highest but you get many luxuries on the big Hills. They limit their teams to 9-12 climbers, have seasoned western guides and excellent Sherpas. The teams are usually very international which I prefer. Their safety record is outstanding and usually perform well on getting people to the summit. Guy runs a first rate operation, especially when he is on the climb. See their Everest summit list but note they do not show their summit %. My bottom line opinion: Consider them if you are looking for an international flavor, and your budget is large and want a smaller, more personal feel to your expedition.

• Alpine Ascents International: I have never personally used AAI, but have seen them in action on many climbs. If money is no object, they may be a good choice for climbers who wants a U.S. based company. For Everest, AAI, similar to the other outfits that charge $70,000 and up, staff their climbs with multiple western guides, generous Sherpa to client ratio, oxygen at 4 to 6lpm and all the frills you would expect from videos at base camp to internet access. They are one of the few companies that spend a night at the South Col before making the final summit push. Today they focus on smaller teams than most. Their excellent web site is one of the best anywhere with loads of information from gear to training. While they have an excellent reputation, they follow a proven formula so understand what you are getting into if you are looking for a more independent climb. See their Everest summit list but note they do not show their summit %. My bottom line opinion: Consider them if you are wanting a personalized and structured experience, and have a very large budget.

• Alpeneglow Expeditions: Adrian Ballinger runs global trips including Everest but only from Tibet. They have emerged as one of the top world-class guide companies. His difference includes clever, aggressive marketing, short time-frame trips designed with high support for small teams at one of the highest price of any commercial operator on most of the mountains he guides. Adrian was one of the pioneers in what they call "Rapid Ascent" expeditions using altitude tents at home and extra oxygen and Western Guides to reduce an Everest climb from eight to less than four weeks. He and most of his guides have international guiding credentials. He likes to focus on mountaineering ski trips. He runs solid, safe trips with everything you would ever need in terms of luxuries and support. My bottom line opinion: A good choice for people who desire maximum support and have extremely limited time plus have large budgets and are strongly focused on a summit more than a traditional expedition.

• Climbing the Seven Summits (CTTS): Mike Hamill broke off as a long time senior guide from IMG in 2017 and now runs global trips leveraging his 6 Everest summits and all of the “Seven Summits,” the tallest mountains on each continent, at least 6 times, some as many as 25 times. He authored a book on the 7 Summits which is the gold standard for planning these climbs. In a change of pace, Mike offers a wide variety of prices and guiding options for most of his climbs so he is definitely one to check out before deciding any trip. Similar to AAI, AC, Madison and the other outfits that charge $65,000 and up, he staffs the climbs with multiple western guides, generous Sherpa to client ratio, oxygen at 4 lpm and all the frills you would expect from videos at base camp to internet access. My bottom line opinion: One of the best new players with independent, young leadership offering a wide range of options and prices.

• Furtenbach Adventures: Lukas Furtenbach, Austrian, is a relatively new comer to the big peaks across the world as he made his name in the European Alps primarily with ski trips. But recently he has run successful Everest trips that have made a name for his "flash" trips which are short time-frame, high oxygen flow, heavily guided climbs of Everest from the Tibet side - all at one of the highest costs in the industry at $118,000. His regular Everest climb is $69,000 - about the same as others at the high end. He runs fully supported, quality, safe trips with all the frills anyone ever needs. My bottom line opinion: An excellent choice for anyone looking for an international feel with top end logistics and leadership
  
  
• Himalayan Experience: Russell Brice, long time legend and founder sold Himex to Stephen Keck in in Austria, so I will withhold an opinion until I see the new team in action. Update: As of 2023, it appears Himex has disappeared from the commercial market under the new leadership.
  
  
• International Mountain Guides: I have climbed with IMG 5 times (Cho Oyu, Vinson, Aconcagua, Everest, Kilimanjaro). Seattle based, Eric Simonson specializes in the Himalayas, Phil Ershler in South America, Antarctica and Elbrus and the other partners for other peaks around the world. IMG is a world-class operation with steady logistics and planning. They run a no-nonsense operation that you can depend on but in my experience and observation they can be quite rigid and stick to their polices with little flexibility. Even with recent price increases their mid range prices, they offer a good value. They have a massive support staff on Everest and are prepared for most any emergency. Their Everest climbs have 20 to 30 members split into sub teams so the base camp is sprawling and the trek is run with military precision. Full disclosure: I selected IMG for 4 of my 7 Summits throughout 2010/2011 and made the summit on all of them - 100% success. See their Everest summit list including their summit %. My bottom line opinion: Good value/safety/independence combination in my personal experience and I would use them for any climb if you don't mind a very large team.
  
  
• Jagged Globe: I have never personally used JG, but have seen them in action on many climbs. A UK based company. I know several people who have used them with good satisfaction. They work with other companies and offer trips almost anywhere. Nice site with many pictures and trip reports. They offer a unique "pre-expedition weekend" where you meet your mates and get a little work in before the trip. They have had 90% success on Everest since 2010. They don't list rate for previous years. My bottom line opinion: A solid choice at market prices, especially if you want a climb with a British flavor.

• Madison Mountaineering: Garrett Madison broke off from Alpine Ascents. He now runs global trips leveraging his 12 Everest summits where he guided more people to the summit of Everest than any commercial guide (60+). He runs fully supported, quality, safe trips at prices at the high end of the market attracting a wide-range of clients with variable level of experience. He offers custom trips for 1st Ascents. Similar to AAI, AC, CTSS and the other outfits that charge $70,000 and up, he staffs the climbs with multiple western guides, generous Sherpa to client ratio, oxygen at 4 lpm and all the frills you would expect from videos at base camp to internet access. Full disclosure: I summited K2 in 2014 with Garrett and found him competent, professional and personable. I also attempted Lhotse with him in 2015. My bottom line opinion: An excellent choice for any climb with highly personal support, quality staff and credible experience; all at top-end prices for everything you would ever need.

• Mountain Madness: With their name synonymous with Scott Fisher and Everest, 1996, today's MM is a very different company. They run trips around the world with a home-grown team of world class guides providing first class service at very affordable prices. Full disclosure: I climbed with MM in January 2019 on the Ecuador volcanoes and was extremely impressed. Bottom Line: A must investigate before finalizing any trip as you may find MM offers one of the best value in the industry.

• Rainier Mountaineering Inc.: RMI is best know for guiding 4,000 people a year up Mt. Rainier in Washington State in the US. I used them with some friends in 2004. I was pleased with the guiding service for our team composed of mostly inexperienced climbers but with so many people, they run a formula climb with little flexibility. RMI has expanded to offer international climbs to leverage their Rainier business. My bottom line opinion: consider them for Rainier and Denali and some international knowing they run a fairly standard, formalistic program.

Smaller, Custom Guides

• Altitude Junkies: A company for climbers, owned and run by Phil Crampton, Altitude Junkies is a boutique operator that focuses on logistics with a strong team of Sherpas and knows how to run a solid base camp. His teams are limited to 8 maximum and are typically more experienced with AJ repeat customers. His prices are slightly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Phil leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. Phil's base camps are known for their daily "happy hour." While serious in purpose, Phil creates an atmosphere of fun on his climbs. Full disclosure: He was instrumental in helping me get to Everest in 2008. I summited both Alpamayo in 2012 and Manaslu with them in the Fall of 2013 and attempted Lhotse with him in 2016. My bottom line opinion: Best of the small independent companies. Consider them if you want a smallish, boutique climb with personal attention but plan on being self-sufficient - there is little hand holding with Phil.
  
  
• Asian Trekking: Maybe the largest and best known "logistics" operator for Nepal and Tibet climbs and treks. Caters to independent groups and individuals looking to leverage permit and logistics but do not want a guide. See their Everest summit list but note they do not show their summit %. Their prices are slightly below market. My bottom line opinion: A good option for those looking for minimal assistance.
  
  
• Benegas Brothers : Guillermo (Willie) and Damian Benegas run their guide company from their native Argentina and also from Utah. Well known for being involved in many rescues on Everest, they run programs around the world and have guided since 1992. They offer full custom climb, ski or trekking programs for any spot on earth. They don't list their Everest summits success but from 2009 to 2013 they have put 17 out of 22 clients on the summit or 77%. Their prices are at the top end of the market. My bottom line opinion: A good option for those looking for strong guiding environment with an Argentina flair at top prices, especially on Everest or anywhere in South America.

• Mountain Professionals: Ryan Waters' Mountain Professionals is based in Boulder, CO USA and has been operating international climbing and polar ski expeditions since 2005. They have a unique approach with specializing primarily on the Seven Summits along with an emphasis on Polar Ski guiding. They are expanding to include Ecuador, and Chile. The owner and director, Ryan Waters worked on his first Everest expedition in 2004 and their Everest program began in 2008. They don't list their Everest summits success % but say they have guided 23 clients to the summit. Their prices are a little under the top end of the market. Full disclosure: I summited Orizaba and attempted Everest with MP in 2008. My bottom line opinion: A good option for those looking for small teams with personal and international touches but especially for those looking to nab the Explorer's Grand Slam (reaching both the North and South Poles and climbing the Seven Summits)
  

Trekking and Other Companies

• Project Himalaya: This is a small company run by Jamie Mc Guinness based out of Katmandu. I went to Shishapangma with him in 2007 and was very pleased. If you just want csutom logistics for Everest, he is a good option. He also offers fully guided expeditions on a custom basis. He has employed the same Sherpas for years and has good BC logistics (food, tents, power,etc.) with smaller teams. His prices are slightly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Jamie leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. His base camp services are good as are his Sherpas who do most of the on-mountain leadership. Their website is one of the best for high quality pictures, and overall mountain information. My bottom line opinion: I would consider him for any Himalaya Trek or Everest North/South logistics.
  
  
• Mountain Travel-Sobek: I used them on my first trip to Nepal in 1997. Sophisticated web site with a professional look. My bottom line opinion: I would use them for any trek around the world if you can afford them.
  
  
• Seven Summits Treks: Owned and operated by Mingma, Tashi and Dawa Sherpa, they are Kathmandu based and run climbs in Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan and India plus all of 14 of the 8000m mountains. Mingma and Dawa have summited all 14 without oxygen. They run a professional base camp and provide Sherpa support at additional costs. Some Sherpas complain they are not paid well. They usually have very large teams on Everest, 50+ from India and China. I used some of their logistics for K2 in 2014.
  
  
• Arnold Coster Expeditions: After running trips for other companies, Arnold now has his own Nepal based operation but uses Seven Summits Treks for logistics. He runs small trips with very low overhead thus passing the savings on to his clients. Many references are pleased with Arnold's basic operation.
  
  
• Tim Mosedale: Tim owns his company and has developed a solid reputation with his climbs. Personable and experienced, many of clients are quite loyal. He is UK based. Get recent references before you book - advice I give about all guide services.
  
  
• Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides: Both offer trips in Jackson Wyoming. I used JHMG for my Grand Teton trip. Speak with your guide before signing up since I found the quality quite variable.
  
  
• St. Elias Alpine Guides: Custom trips to Alaska's Wrangell-St. Elias Mountain range for first ascents and ice climbing. I did some first ascents and ice climbing with them in 1999. They are very willing to make your trip whatever you want. Employees a motivated young team of guides. Basic web site with comprehensive information on their trips.
  
  
• Alaska Mountaineering School: Specializes in Alaska and Denali. I climbed Denali with them in 2007. It was an OK trip with good logistics and guide skills. They ran it too much like a school room (with school in their name, what was I expecting!?) for my taste but it might appeal to climbers with less experience. They were also ultra-ultra-conservative in climbing style. Nice people but there might be better choices for Denali for those looking for a more independent experience.

European and other Companies

• Kobler & Partners: Kari Kobler's guiding company based in Switzerland. I have never used Kari but he is quite popular in Europe. The website is in German.
  
• 7 Summits Club: Russia based and run by Alexander Abramov, they run the 7 Summits and cater to Russian and European clients.
  
• Adventure Peaks: UK Based guide running Everest North climbs most every year
  
• Wilco van Rooijen: Dutch explorer who runs expeditions around the world. I was with Wilco on Broad Peak/K2 2006 expedition. He summited K2 in 2008. He is an incredibly strong climber based out of the Netherlands. Website is in Dutch.
  
• Borge Ousland: A modern day Amundsen, Borge runs expeditions to both poles. He was the first person - ever - to go solo and unsupported across Antarctica. I was with him on Cho Oyu in the late '90s. Great person with incredible stories. Website is in English.

Climbing Schools

• American Alpine Institute: Climbing courses and trips. Located in Washington State. Many good references.
  
• International Mountain Climbing School: Climbing courses and trips. Located in New Hampshire. Many good references.
  
• National Outdoor Leadership School: a long time outdoor company. Many good references. The industry leader in the U.S..
  
• Outward Bound: another long leader in outdoor training

Insurance and Travel

• Travelex: Recommended by many international guides. Must buy within 21 days of registering for a climb. I know customers who have received 100% refunds on $40,000 trips due to unforeseen cancellations. For full evac, medical coverage with almost no limitation, take of their highest level of coverage at a very high price otherwise expect some hassle. They covered my medical evacuation from Camp 2 on Lhotse in 2016 with no hassle.
  
• Global Rescue: Recommended by many commercial guides. They covered my helicopter evacuation from the western Cwm on Everest in 2015 after the earthquake based on my membership with the American Alpine Club. For full evac, medical coverage with almost no limitation (at a very high price), take of their highest level of coverage otherwise expect some hassle.
  
• American Alpine Club: Updated for 2023. Rescue insurance included with membership, travel insurance for climbers available. I'm a member. Their standard evac insurance covered me on Everest in 2015 when I had to take a helicopter from C1 after the earthquake.

• Redpoint Travel Protection: I've never used them but seems to be gaining in popularity. They are the current partners with the American Alpine Club and offer excellent coverage for climbers including up to $300,000 (As of March 20, 2021 they do not cover Nepal or Pakistan)

• IMG Global: I've never used them but seems to be gaining in popularity

• British Mountaineering Club: Rescue insurance included with membership, travel insurance for climbers available

• CTT Destinations: Highly experienced in arranging travel for climbers to any destination around the world. I used them for the 7 Summits.

Weather

• Everest Weather: Michael Fagin based in Washington State, U.S. has provided forecast to Alpine Ascents Inc (AAI), Altitude Junkies, International Mountain Guides (IMG), Jimmy Chin and others. I summited Everest in 2011 with IMG using his forecast.
  
• MeteoTest: Swiss based service has provided forecast to Russell Brice (Himex), Adventure Consultants, Uli Steck and others.
  
• Tomer Weather Solutions: Colorado based, a boutique operation supporting small and large clients around the world at a very reasonable price.

* The term 'leading' compared to 'guiding' indicates the expedition does not have a western or lead Sherpa always with the climbers throughout the expedition. This may or may not be important to your selection.

Expedition Companies Reference
Information taken from company websites in early 2023 and are subject to correction and changes.
Visit their sites for latest information.

Please see Selecting a Guide for more information