Gear

I draw from this list depending on the climb. I have honed it from almost 25 years of climbing and it works for me. A means it is always in my pack from a 14er to Everest, K2. Thumbs Up means it is one of my favorites pieces that works unusually well, I have taken it it on multiple climbs and is highly recommended. The prices are US list. Check out on-line retailers like Backcountry, Sierra Trading Post or eBay for better prices. Use Goggle Shopping to find lowest prices. My favorite brands include Himali, Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear and Black Diamond. The links provided are for your convenience and I do not earn any money when you click on them. Summit Coach clients receive the latest gear list based on Alan's 30 years of mountaineering. I tend to get cold easily. The key for me staying warm is layers. However over the years, I have changed my approach to layering since I tended to have too many layers at times. Today, it is rare for me to have more than 3 layers even in the most extreme conditions. First, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool - regardless of the outside temp. Then I use a 3 layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in the Mountain Hardware Power Stretch and/or just my Patagonia Dual Point Alpine Pants depending on how cold it is that day. On my top are wind or warmth layers usually a Himali jacket. When the temps near 0F or the wind chill is below 0F, I replace the shell with my Himali plus my BD Mercury mitts. I regulate my body temperature with my top layers plus use the Buff neck gator to manage airflow from my jacket A popular feature on the site are gear reviews. I only update when I have something new to say. They represent my experience as a regular climber - not a professional - who is not sponsored and has always paid for all my gear except in a few cases that are noted with . NOTE: I buy high-quality gear, take care of it and use it for years. This list represent the current versions of what I used and may not be the exact item I used on my climbs. DISCUSSION FOR 2023* I'm pleased with all my current gear. For most winter outings, I am wearing merino wool base layers, Himali, pants and jackets. If very cold and windy, I add Patagonia hard-shell Gortex shell pants. I've switched alomst exclusively to Colorado based, Himali, for my jackets. They are well designed, high quality and priced fairly. I've wore them for several years now and they hold up. On my feet are the La Sportiva Nepal Evo Cube. I am mostly pleased with them but had to play with lacing and sock combo to keep my toes warm. Finally, I have settled on socks from Darn Tough - outstanding quality and value, and merino wool of course! Alan's Gear Rules (under continuous development) 1. Use 3 layers max, unless extreme weather then add "last resort" shell 2. Layer next to skin must be merino wool - breathes, wicks and doesn't stink plus feels good. 3. Tops must have deep zips and collars - manage core temperature via venting or pull up to protect neck from sun and/or cold 4. Jacket must have hood - integral part of core warmth system also serves as a stuff bag 5. Shell leg layer must have full length zips - must to get over boots and/or crampons in a hurry in bad weather 6. Keep Neutrogena's Spectrum Plus Sunblock and Lip baum in outside pockets for easy access and frequent use 7. Always have snack in pocket for easy access. If it is a hassle to reach, you will not use it. Same goes for camera. 8. Use stuff sacks for small items and hoods for jackets or just stuff them into the open space in your pack. 9. Always keep a 'biner or two on the outside of your pack, handy for securing loose items and emergencies. 10. Sunglasses have keeper cord and go around my neck as I leave camp, even if dark to enable quick access as sun hits. Summit Coach clients receive the latest gear list based on Alan's 30 years of mountaineering. Preparing for a Climb is More Than Training Schedule a Free Call If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or to reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2 we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 27 years of high altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the Summit Coach website.

WHAT	MY CHOICE	Current or Alternative Brands	COMMENTS	4000m Climbs CO & CA 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc, Elbrus	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Shishapangma
Base Layer - moisture wicking
Use only Merino wool on this layer because it does not stink, wicks well and one pair of tops and bottoms can last literally weeks on a long expedition.
Long underwear Merino wool tops and bottoms	Icebreaker $70 - $95	Mountain Hardwear Mountain Stretch Zip Tee $80 Ibex Woolies Tech $135	Can easily be top layer. Switched from Capiline to Merino wool since it wicks and maintains warmth better. Many good brands out there - as long as it is Merino wool. Read my review	X	X	X
Briefs	Icebreaker Oasis Boxers $50	Smartwool $50 Ibex Boxer $60	Icebreaker's merino wool feel great, doesn't stink and keeps me dry. Wear in summer also. Also suggest Baby Powder for added comfort.	X	X	X
Socks	Darn Tough $25	Smartwool $20 Wigwam $25 Thorlo $14 Costco $2.50	I have settled on socks from Darn Tough - outstanding quality and value and merino wool! I wear one medium weight pair with no liner. Take your favorite socks when buying new boots. Always have a spare pair in my pack.	X	X	X
Mid Layer - warmth through trapped air				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
I mostly use this layer for the coldest days or extreme altitude summit days
Fleece Bibs	Rab Power Stretch $180	Black Diamond Coefficient LT One Piece $200	Used a Mountain Hardwear version but was discontinued. This version from Rab and Black Diamond are the same, except the BD has slaeves and a hood. This layer is a must have on 6000m+ summit days. The MH Power Stretch Suit has been my secret warmth weapon and for added sleeping warmth for over 10 years. Read my review.	winter	X	X
Hoody	Patagonia R1 Technical Fleece $170	Black Diamond Coefficient Quarter Zip Hoody $160 First Ascent Technical Fleece $100	Excellent warm mid layer that stays warm when wet from sweat vs lightweight down jacket. Great hood design.	X	X	X
Jacket	Patagonia Nano-Air Hoody $300		An great jacket from Patagonia that I sometimes use as a mid layer. It wicks, breaths and stays warm when a bit wet. Not waterproof or wind resistant in high winds adn a little bulky.	x	x	x
Outer Layer - sun and brush protection				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Shishapangma
Most of the time this is my 2nd layer and I live in the same bottom for weeks but switch out tops to sleep or for a change of pace.
Full Zip Shirt	Ibex $50 - $150	Mammut $100 Patagonia Cycling Shirt $140	One for trek in and a clean one for trek out, another dedicated for sleeping. Cycling tops work well also. I only use long selves and collars for sun protection plus zips for venting.	X	X approach	X approach
Pants	REI Sahara $60	North Face: Paramount Pro Convertable $120 Mountain Hardwear: $95	Buy for comfort. Lite colors don't show dirt as bad. I have brands with zip-off legs but never use. Mostly nylon so dries quickly. Warm when used with wool base layer.	X	X approach	X approach
Top Layer - wind and rain				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
A critical layer for protection. This is your primary layer exposed to the elements 80% of the time so buy the best you can afford and it will last for decades. Remember, you will add or subtract from this layer so think about where you climb or hike and buy for those primary conditions (snow, rain, sun, hot, cold, etc.) Forget hardshell vs softshell terms, focus on wind, rain, and snow protection plus required warmth layers.
Gortex Bibs	Arc'Teryx Alpha SV $650		Never use given latest pants from Himali and Patagonia. Use as top leg layer when winds are brutal. Full zips for easy on/off. Love Arc'Teryx gear but a bit pricey. Was a lifesaver on Aconcagua one year.		X	X
Climbing Pants	Himali Guide Flex Pant $138		Incredibly comfortable design with cuff zips to accommodate boots. Material does nice job of stopping wind. Very comfortable.	X	X	X
Climbing Pants	Patagonia Altiva Alpine Pants $149	Mountain Hardwear Chockstone $130 Outdoor Research Ferossi Pant $89	Mid weight soft-shell pant that transition from low to high altitudes providing wind, moisture and cold protection. My only winter and expedition pants.	winter	X	X
Rain Gear	Patagonia Torrent Shell Jacket $180 Torrent Shell Pant $120	Marmot PreCip $120 Jacket, $80 - Pants	Lightweight 100% waterproof shells for torrential downpours in the PNW, Kilimanjaro or Carstensz. Pants have full length zips. Can also work as a wind shell unless it's extremely cold.	X	X	X approach only
Wind Shirt	Patagonia: Houdini $109	Black Diamond Distance Wind Shell $140	Weighs nothing but gives great protection in medium wind. Love the hood. Always in my pack. Not a rain shell but surprisingly effective in a stiff breeze. Also love thre Black Diamond	X	X	X approach
"Hard Shell" or Technical Shell Jacket	Himali Monsoon Hardshell $365	Patagonia:Piolet $299 Patagonia Troposphere$300 Marmot Oracle $165 Mountain Hardwear: Axial $475 Arc'Teryx: Beta AR $449 Outdoor Research: Mentor $400	This serves as my primary wet weather or strongest/coldest wind shell top. Replaced heavier Gore Tex hardshell. Very warm with Himali Down jacket. Great hood. Worth the price. Works in heavy rain and wind.	X	X	X below 8000M
"Soft Shell" or Technical Shell Jacket	Mountain Hardwear Stretch Ozonic Jacket $250	Himali $250 Outdoor Research Ferrosi Jacket $260 The North Face Alloy $350	A solid addition to my shell collection this one has a soft feel inside and out yet sheds water and snow like a duck. Warm enough to eliminate the need for at least one layer. However, still need stronger layer in extreme winter winds.	X	X	X below 8000m
"Softshell" or light warmth layer	Himali Peak 7 Down Jacket $240	Patagonia Ultralight Down Hoody $350 Marmot: Baffin $150 Outdoor Research: Mithril $200	Unbelievably lightweight yet protects from snow, wind and extreme cold. Probably the single most useful jacket I own. Great "always in your pack" jacket, good for cold and breezy conditions. Probably use 10% of the time on a climb, but 100% at lower elevations.	X winter	X	X below 8000M
Down Layer - extreme wind and cold				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
This is the "your life depends on it" layer. If you are spending tens of thousands on an 8,00m climb; this layer is not the time to skimp. Buy smart but don't overpay since the gear companies know this as well. No need for huge down jackets or heavy Gore Tex if you have the proper layers underneath - even on Everest, K2, or in Antarctica.
Down Jacket	Himali Accelerator Down Jacket $330	Mountain Hardwear: Absolute Zero Parka $650 Feather Friends Volant Jacket + Hood $340 Patagonia: Das Parka $300	Lightweight, extremely warm - with hood. Four ounces of 850 down fill. Perfect all-around jacket for moderate cold and wind conditions. Probably use 70% of the time on a climb. Nice pillow when stuffed in a small pillow case from home.	X	X	X below 8000M
Down Jacket	Himali Altitude Down Jacket $495	Mountain Hardwear: Absolute Zero Parka $650 Feather Friends Volant Jacket + Hood $340 Patagonia: Das Parka $300	Extremely warm - with hood. 8 ounces of 850 down fill. Perfect jacket for extreme cold and wind conditions. Probably use 20% of the time on a climb.	X	X	X below 8000M
Down Suit	Mountain Hardwear: Absolute Zero Suit $1250	Himali $2000 North Face Himalayas $1000 Feather Friends $1150	Used on Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu. I prefer a one piece suit - warmer since it leaves no gaps at the waistline. Used my TNF suit for 15 years, 10 expeditions. The Mountain Hardwear suit uses waterproof down which is good for sweat control, outstanding hood system and logical, well-sized pockets. Used on K2, very pleased.		X optional	X required
Insulated Pants	Mountain Hardware Chugach 3D Pant $130	Integral Designs: Denali Pants $240	Great for BC or colder weather. Lightweight Polarguard pant. Could be summit gear on 7000m climbs with Gortex outer and Powerstretch base. I use for base camp pants all the time.		X	X camp life
Head, Eyes, Feet and Hands				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Glove system is critical here. I like gloves down low or when finger use is paramount and then mittens on summit day. Rig keepers and use hand warmers. Make a Buff a mandatory part of your cold weather system and use it religiously to minimize upper respiratory infections. It is a myth that 50% of your body heat escapes from the scalp so wearing a hat will keep your toes warm but I still wear and sleep with my beanie most of the time.
Wool Beanie	Patagonia Wool Beanie $30	Mountain Hardwear: Micro Dome $30 Marmot: Power Stretch beanie $25	Key to my layering system. Almost always have it on. Also works well under helmet.	X	X	X
Wool Balaclavas and knit caps	Outdoor Research $35	Marmot: Super Hero $55	good for head and face protection against cold and wind but rarely use unless extreme conditions. Buff or Patagonia Hoody does the job.	X	X	X
Neck & Ear Warmer plus skull cap	Buff $30		Absolutely my most frequently used piece of clothing due to it's flexibility and quality. Cover my mouth to warm cold air before breathing. Always in my pack. Read my review.	X	X	X
Long Bill Cap	Patagonia $5 -$25	Dorfman Pacific $15	sun protection during trekking. Long bill is good for face and eye protection.	X	X	X
Glacier Sun Glasses Nose Guard	Julbo Explorer 2.0 $150 Beko $9	Julbo: Dolgan, Nomad $45+	Use Julbo Explorer for across all conditions and goggles as backup. Must have the side eye protection. Best with nose guard in bright snow conditions (Denali). Used on K2 with success	X	X	X
Ski Goggles	Anon M2 Goggle $200	Smith Turbofan $160 Julbo:Excel $90	Needs to be polarized, easy on/off with 100% UV A and B.For 8000m peaks need clear and dark lens. Magnetic is best		X	X
Liners, Outer and Windstopper gloves	Black Diamond Dirt Bag Glove $40	Black Diamond: Tour $95 The North Face Kelvin $160	Designed for good dexterity when working with jumar or carabineers .Leather makes it more durable than fleece on rock. Many good fleece windstopper gloves on the market.	X	X	X
Climbing Gloves	Black Diamond Super Rambla Glove $160	Outdoor Research: Alti Gloves $150 Hestra Alpine Pro $160	Leather glove with primaloft lining that is warm, rugged and lasts forever with care. Love the durability and dexterity. Losing interest in the expensive Hestra - not warm for me. Read my review	winter	X	X
Alpine Climbing gloves	Black Diamond Mercury Mitt $100	Outdoor Research: Alti Mitt $200	Great value. Must for high altitude summits to prevent frostbite but during long stretches or stops. Always in my winter pack or above 7000m+. Used on Everest, Manaslu to summit.	winter	X	X
Hand warmers	Grabber $2.50	Little Hotties $1	Perfect to keep hands warm but count on half the time advertised for real warmth. Use adhesive one to keep camera warm	X	X	X
Boots and Shoes				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Boots are very personal and you cannot go wrong with most name brands today. But fit is unique so try them on with your favorite pair of socks, don't be afraid to return them for another size even when buying online. There is almost no break-in period with modern boots; you just break your feet into your boot! Also shop for best prices online and don't overpay unless you buy them from your local retailer who provides exquisite personal service. Don't overlook Used Overboots as a warmth option - it works well and saves money over buying multiple boots.
Sandals for base camp	Tevas and Crocs $20 - $80	SwimOutlet	relief from boots in mild weather and stream crossings in warmer weather
base camp Boots	Uggs Bloke $130	North Face: McMurdo $120	Sheepskin lined boots that are warm and comfortable. These are my only shoes at 8000m BC where gear is hauled in.		X	X
ice climbing and alpine mountaineering boots	La Sportiva Nepal Evo Cube GTX $575	Lowa: Civetta $450 Asolo: AFS 8000 $465	Finally switched to modern mountaineering boots with La Sportiva Nepal Evo Cube. This is the latest version of the popular Nepal Evo. They are lighter, warmer and have a solid footing. A bit stiff so slightly cumbersome on rock. Good crampon fit.	X	X
Overboot	Forty Below Purple Haze $160		Amazing warmth when worn over double plastic boots. Used on Denali with Koflachs and Kaylands. Only use with crampons or snowshoes since soles are fabric and not Vibram. Great solution to heavy 7000/8000m boots that are overkill down low but need warmth up high.		X	X
High Altitude Alpine climbing	LaSportiva: Olympus Mons $1200	Millet: Everest, K2, GTX $1000 Lowa:Expedition 8000 RD GT $1000 Scarpa: Phantom 8000 $940	Integrated boot and gaiter high altitude and extreme cold. Carefully consider sizing since feet swell at altitude. The latest 2016 versions are far superior with improved zippers, filling and soles. Much lighter as well. Used on K2, Lhotse very pleased.		X	X required
Lightweight trekking shoes	Kayland, Sorrel, La Sportiva, Montrail $120	Asolo: Flame GTX Vasque: Breeze $110 Patagonia Nomad $185	Never use the heavy leather boots anymore but still like high ankle support. Lots of good boots, select based on fit. Don't like velcro laces however.	X	X approach	X approach
Snowshoes	Atlas 12 Series $280	MSR: Evo Ascent $210	Like the larger shoes for more"float" when carrying heavy loads. But the MSRs are a bit lighter and easier to use and has heel lifter for hills.	X	Denali
Booties	Forty Below Camp Booties Down Booties $70	Feathered Friends: Down Booties $90	relief from boots in the tent and to stay warm in sleeping bag.The Forty Below are excellent and worth the price. Add their sheepskin insoles for added warmth and comfort. LIke to wear them inside 8000m boots without liners around camp. A must have for all expeditions or even weekend camping or Sunday football games at home!		X	X
Foot Warmers	Hotronics Power Plus m4e $200	ThermaCELL Proflex Heavy Duty. $85 - $200	Battery powered footbed warmers designed for skiing but used by many climbers. Used on Everest, K2, and Manaslu but battery ran out. Good warm socks may be easier solution!			X
Collapsible ski poles	Black Diamond Trail Shock $110	REI: Traverse Powerlock $90 Leki	trekking, helps wear on knees. Look for snap locks, not twist like on Leki. Use only one these days. Read my review.	X	X	X
Sleeping Gear				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
I prefer down over synthetic and have never had an issue with it getting wet but I don't live in a rainy area. Don't waste your money on a -40F/C sleeping bag, get -20F if needed and adjust your clothing inside the bag. Splurge on an excellent pad - the weight tradeoff is not worth a good night's sleep.
0F/-18C Down bag	Mountain Hardwear ~~Phantom 0 $620~~	Marmot: Snow Bunting $600 PHD	use at lower camps or higher with other clothing. Very light at under 3 lbs. A down filled bag. I actually use this for High Camps and the -20 for BC. Used on Aconcagua, Everest, K2, Manaslu and Elbrus successfully	X	X	X
-20F/-28C Down bag	Mountain Hardwear Phantom -40F $900	Western Mountaineering: Puma MF $970 Feather Friends: Ptarmigan $760 PHD	very cold nights, used at High Camps or BC.Very expensive but has 800 fill *waterproof* Down, excellent features like hood, collar, foot box and baffle design. 4lb 8oz - good weight for -20 bag Used -20F version on Vinson, Everest, K2, Manaslu and Denali successfully.		X	X
Foam mat	Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite $35		protection from snow, cold and rocks. Z-lite seems to pack smaller than roll versions. Carry 2 - BC and High Camps.	X	X	X
insulated pad	Thermarest $40 - $200 ExPed Down Mat $180	Big Agnes Dual Core $150 Thermarest Neoair $130	Thermarest NeoAir X-Therm ($200) is amazingly comfy and light and packable. Use on all camps above basecamp. Worth the money Thermarest is solid. Love the ExPed for basecamp as it is more comfy but weighs more. Worth the money Full length, don't cheat with 2/3's length to save weight. Take 2- BC and High Camps. Used these on K2, Everest very pleased.	X	X	X
Pee bottle	Naglene Canteen for men $7 Freshette for women		Pee inside your bag or tent. Pick different shape for easy grab in the dark. Large capacity 2L is best. A must!		X	X
Climbing Equipment				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Shishapangma
Buy the best and never cheat. Your life literally depends on this gear.
Helmet	Black Diamond Tracer $90	Petzl: Elios $70 Petzl Ecrin Roc $80	rock climbing or dangerous or crowded areas. Use on almost all climbs today mainly due to climbers above me. Tracer got crushed in duffle by airlines. Ecrin roc heavier but dependable!	X	X	X
Harness	Black Diamond Chaos $75	Petzel: Pandion $65 Black Diamond: Alpine Bod $40 Black Diamond: Ozone $100	attaching to ropes and pro Comfortable climbing harness with gear loops. Chaos is overkill for alpine climbs but I like the leg strap construction and assembly.	X	X	X
Short Ice Axe for ice climbing	Black Diamond Cobra $680/pair	Petzl: Quark $490 pair	ice climbing Cobras are lightweight, well balanced and incredibly effective. Read my review	X depends on route	X depends on route	X depends on route
Long 75 cm Ice Axe for alpine climbs	Black Diamond Raven Pro $90	Grivel: G12/14 Petzel: Snowalker $90	steep ice and snow on alpine routes. lighter shaft and clean picks. I am 5'11" so 70 cm was right length for me. Tape the top with duck tape and foam to prevent cold transfer to hands.	X	X	X
Climbing rope and slings	Mammut Genesis $160	Blue Water Sterling	monitor for wear and ultraviolet light problems ... your life depends on it.	X	X	X
Crampons	Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro, Cyborg $170, $200	Grivel: G12/14 Petzel: Vasak Leverlock $165	steep ice and snow. Like the stainless steel - doesn't rust. Sabertooth Pro for alpine climbing. Cyborg best choice for steep ice or mixed rock/ice.	X	X	X
Microspikes	Kahtoola MICROspikes $50	Yaktrax $60	traction for any footwear. Very convenient when crampons are too much but you still need some extra purchase. Warning - they seem to break easily have gone through multiple pairs. See my review	X
Locking carabineers Snap-link carabineers	Petzel/ Black Diamond $8	Omega Pacific Mammut	attaching to ropes. locking, twisting, snap. Get BD Nitron use keylock nose for easy fixed line use, no snags.	X	X	X
Figure of 8 descender & ATC	Black Diamond $8	Mammut	rappelling fixed ropes. Nice to have Super 8 for iced ropes and knots.	X	X	X
Ascender jumar with leashes	Petzel $60	Black Diamond: Nforce $70	climbing fixed ropes and protection. Can use with BD Mercury mitts.	X	X	X
Headlamp with lithium batteries	Black Diamond:Storm $50	Black Diamond: Ion $20 Princeton Quad BL $35 Petzel: Tikka $34 Mammut: Lucido TX1	BD Storm offers twice the brightness at 100 lumens and has very useful dim feature. A torch is always in my pack. Used on Everest, K2, etc.	X	X	X
Carrying and Shelter				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Shishapangma
I have used several brands of packs over the years and have reached the conclusion that there are many solid models out there from the major companies at great prices: Mountain Hardwear, Gregory, Arc'Teryx, Lowe and others. Don't ever waste your money on a custom pack, ever. Be careful of weight but a light weight pack will not carry heavy loads and tire you out faster. So for Denali, get a beefy one, for Everest, K2, , go light. There are so many tent options these days it is confUsed. Be careful about how you will use it, number of people, since size does matter as does weight. Double vs single wall - depends on the amount of rain you camp in.
Day or Summit Pack	REI Flash 18 Pack $30		This is a small, lightweight pack that is ideal for short summit climbs or day trips. It holds a hydration bladder plus the 10 essentials. Note: not good in heavy rain so use trash bag as liner. Read my review	X
Trekking Pack	Black Diamond 30L Speed $149	Dueter: Guide Lite 32 $116 Crux: ak37 $260	The Black Diamond Speed is a great summit pack, daypack for ice climbing, an overnight climb or just a walk-up.	X	X approach/summit	X approach/summit
Climbing Pack	Osprey Aether 85 5200 cu in/85l $279 Mountain Hardwear South Col 70L $213	Gregory: Denali Pro $500 Black Diamond Mission 75 $230 Lowe Alpine: TFX Expedition $295 Alpine Luddites for custom packs	These two packs are flexible and comfortable, better than most including expensive custom packs. Unless you have a really specific need such as unusual dimensions or want to shave every, tiny ounce off the pack or need some extremely special configuration, then off the shelf packs are a better value. Consider Alpine Luddites Have used both on the 7 Summits with the Osprey my goto for huge loads e.g. Denali. Read my review and South Col for Everest, etc.	X	X	X
Duffle for air and yak transport	Gregory Duffle North Face $90 - $195	Mountain Hardwear: Expedition$130 Patagonia: Black Hole $150 The North Face Base Camp Duffel $180	Get the heaviest fabric to avoid tearing by luggage handlers and the largest size available. Put axes sharp ends in water bottle. Double bag powders. Put itinerary and gear list inside bag for TSA and use TSA approved locks. Used on all climbs successfully.	X	X	X
Tent	Black Diamond HiLight $400 North Face VE-25 $700 Big Agnes Seedhouse 2 $350	Mountain Hardwear: Trango $625 Hilleberg: Nallo GT $720	recently switched to Black Diamond HiLight Tent - light weight (3 pounds), roomy for 1, bomber design for all kinds of weather. Used on Rainier in 2015 TNF VE-25 is still the best expedition BC tent ever but a little heavy at 12lbs. Lots of imitations from China these days including Kailas - decent but not same build quality. The Big Agnes Seedhouse Series is very nice 3 Season - inexpensive and lightweight. Read my review Mountain Hardwear tents also very good, especially the Trango series - heavy but bomber. Don't like EV series - heavy and poor venting in experience on Shishapangma Hilleberg expensive and rock solid.	X	X	X
Accessories & Misc.				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Shishapangma
Stove	Optimus Crux $75 MSR Dragon Fly or XGK-EX ~$145	JetBoil MSR Reactor $160	Canisters are easier but not as efficient at extreme altitude plus the waste and leakage issues. White gas burns hotter and is easier to manage at altitude like Denali. Used MSR Reactor on K2 - excellent Count on 1 liter fuel per person per week	X	X	X
Water bottles and bladders	CamelBak $16 CamelBak Stoaway $55	Nalgene MSR Dromedary Bag	Love the 1.5L CamelBak Chute bottle for getting a lot of water in without leaks or spills. Get different shape and color for pee bottle!Have had recent problems with Nalgene cracking and leaking. Double insulated Camelback Stoaway. Great for putting in pack for long cold days and not freezing, and hot ones! Holds almost 3 liters. Use with CamelBak Elixir TAblets for constant hydration and electrolyte replacement	X	X	X
Water Purification	SteriPEN $100	Sawyer Squeeze Filter $50	Simple and sometimes effective water purification Used ultraviolet light. Steripen failed on Aconcagua so don't use anymore on critical climbs.	X	X	X
Bottle Parka	Outdoor Research $24	40Below $20	Must have for the Nalgene when at altitude or in deep freeze environments	X	X	X
Hydration	Thermos $35		must use at altitude to prevent frozen water bottles . Hot tea is wonderful during breaks high up!		X	X
Stuff Sacks	Granite Gear $20-$50	Sea to Summit	Keep gear organized but use jacket hood as it's sack.		X	X
Toiletries	Purell ethyl alcohol hand sanitizer $3 Eye Shades and Ear Plugs		An absolute must in 3rd world countries. Bring several pocket size bottles and always keep with you. keep hands clean without water. teeth, hair, nails, etc. Don't forget Toilet Paper! I use the moist wipes instead of TP. Eye shades needed for Denali, ear plugs (with cord)for noisy tent mates	X	X	X
Medication	See a qualified physician!		Make sure you consult with a qualified physician who has experience with altitude. Your regular family physician may not be qualified for a discussion on high altitude issues. Also, taking information from the internet is dangerous. It may take some work but seek a qualified physician.	X	X	X
First Aid Kit	Adventure Medical Kits band-aids, gauze, moleskin, tape, iodine $25		always have small version with me	X	X	X
Sun and lip protection	Dermatone Lip gloss Neutrogena Sunblock $3 - $10		must have and must use liberally on lips, face, nose, ears, hands. Sunblock must protect against UVA and UVB. Neutrogena's UVA/UVB Sunblock Lotion is excellent. Always in my pack.	X	X	X
Pocket knife / leatherman	Spyderco Delico $134	Spyderco: Ambitious G-10 $45 Buck Redpoint $38 Trango Piranha $20 Petzel Spatha $27 Leatherman $50	Must have for emergencies or food prep. attach to harness for quick access Leatherman nice to have for repairs. Get newest lightweight model.	X	X	X
Drywipes	Action Wipes	Wet Ones $0.10	workaround when no shower must have on any trip longer then 2 weeks. I use the Wet Ones as TP at camp and the tougher Action Wipes for general clean-up.		X	X
Paperback books				X	X	X
Altitude watch	Suunto Vector $200 - $500		Time, alarm and altitude fairly accurate plus I can replace the battery. Love the log feature. Need to reset altitude daily. Alarm is weak and not useful.	X	X	X
Shortwave Radio	Grundig P 2000 $80		for staying current in remote places. Excellent for BBC and VOA. External wire for antenna improves reception. Take transistor to Denali for NPR for Anchorage		X	X
Digital Camera	Canon PowerShot SX600 HS $250 Canon G10 $500 Nikon D60 $300 - $800		Capturing those great memories use big zoom DSLR 200mm optical during approach and smaller point and shoot while climbing. Use several 4GB cards for safety, not one. Use video on point and shoot. See my Photography page.	X	X	X
Emergency Tracker	Garmin InReach $400+	SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger	Have replaced SPOT with InReach as it allows for custom messages plus current GPS location.	X	X	X
GPS	Garmin- eTrex Vista $300		easy, full featured navigation tool.	X	X
Compass			Liquid filled with mirror. when all else fails, set for return to camp	X	X	X
Small Towel			I always forget!		X	X
Music & Videos	Apple iPod Mini or Shuffle		gota have. iPods of all types are must popular for music, Podcasts and videos. Load it up before you leave and enjoy at night and rest days.	X	X	X
Earbuds	Etymotic Research HF5 $100		Excellent sound quality(and bass) but also doubles as outstanding ear plugs for noisy nights. Perfect for long plane rides as well.	X	X	X
Batteries	Energizer Lithium $2		no tunes or lights without power. Lithium are best for cold. Take a lot. Buy in bulk online	X	X	X
Bag for storage at hotel on expeditions			include a lock and white medical tape and felt pen for labeling		X	X
Energy Bars and Gels	Honey Stinger Bars, Gels and Chews $1.5-$3.00		The only 'energy' product I have used where I can feel a boost. All natural honey digest easily and does not spike. Everyone is different but these work for me.	X	X	X
Electrolyte Replacement	Camelbak Nuun ~$1 per L		Electrolyte replacement. Adds a little taste to plain water but keeps your system in balance. Always use on every hike or climb. A bit pricey but worth it	X	X	X
Cup and Bowl	Stanley Cup $15 Bowl $10 Spoon $1		I like the Stanley nested cups with lid, the simple Rubbermaid tupperware bowl to eat with Lexan big spoon. Unbreakable and holds big potions. All easy to clean with snow or grit!	X	X	X
The 10+ Essentials			Extra clothing, Map, Water, Food, Compass, Headlamp with extra batteries/bulbs, First-aid kit, Sunglasses, Pocket knife, Sunscreen, Matches in waterproof container and firestarter PLUS Cell/Sat Phone, pencil/paper, whistle, space blanket	X	X	X
Technology - Hardware to Communicate Email, Dispatches
Hand held Radio	Yaesu		Excellent hand held radio that is lightweight, reliable and battery stingy.
Satellite Phone	Thuraya $600 - $1000 Iridium $1200+		Coverage only in Asia, Middle East, Western Europe not Northern but more reliable then Iridium and Globalstar in my experience. Sign up with Fone Recharge for easy purchase of minutes from the phone. Per minute rates vary but are less than 1US$/minute. They have ISP service so you simply dial 1722 and your surfing at 9600 baud! Bgan is great at BC for fast data only transfers. Iridium is true global solution but very spotty in high mountains - use Thuraya if you have a choice. Warning: Thuraya SIMs must be renewed annually so verify your subscription before leaving home.
Solar Panel	Solar Blatz Feather 20 $439	Anker Brunton Goal Zero Solio $90	Amazingly simple and effective. Make sure you calculate all the amperage needed for all devices laptops, camera, iPods, etc. Usually you use panel to charge a battery then recharge devices from the battery . I used the Feather 20 to keep my Sat phone charged - carried it with me in my day pack and to High Camps - very lightweight. Can recharge anything with a 12V car adaptor. Look at Anker, for best value in solar. Click here for an excellent tutorial on solar panels
12V 7ma Battery	gel cell, approved for air transport		Must for cloudy days when panel will not work. Motorcycle size for limited charging. Full size for heavy use. Again, understand your amp load or you will be short. Batterystuff.com and Power-Sonic are good source for most of the power items listed on this page.
DC-AC Converter	Various $50		recharge laptop from battery. make sure the converter provides enough amps. Most Laptops need 3ma or more. Highly recommend testing extensively before you leave home Used the solar panel and battery combos!
Cables	Various $5 - $25		You will need all sorts of male and female 12V cigarette lighter style and alligator clip cables to connect everything. Powerportstore is a good source.
Mini, Netbooks and Notebook Computer	Apple MacBookAir $1500	Various HP, Dell, etc.	Perfect for traveling and base camp. At 3lbs, thin and light, I used the solid state MacBook Air for 7 Summits successfully. Some people like Google ChromeBook. Use Parallels software to run Windows programs if needed on the Mac - excellent. Never take moving disc (HDD) since it will fail at altitude.
Multi-Meter	Radio Shack $20		must have for trouble shooting. *Bring at least three extra fuses for every fuse type you have. Also wire nuts, electrical tape and a variety of small screwdrivers*
Technology - Software
Blogging Server	Wordpress		Free software that runs on your server and enables automatic posting from PDA or PC. Be careful for bandwidth usage.
Audio Dispatch	HipCast		low cost service that links to your website or Blog allowing you to call a US number, leave a message and in less than a minute the world hears your voice on your site.
Always in my pack or on me from a 14er to Everest, K2,
Clothing	Eating and Food		Misc			WInter
Socks	Water		pencil/paper			Ice Axe
Rain Pants	Energy Bars , Hydration Tablets		Cell/Sat Phone			Crampons
Soft Shell & Wind Shirt	TP		Map			Shovel (depending on terrain)
Hoody	Survival		Compass
Warm Gloves	space blanket or Bivy Sack		First Aid Kit
Neck Buff, skull hat and cap	Matches, Lighter, Fire Starter		iPod :-) and earbuds
Sunglasses	Whistle		Digital Camera
Sunscreen, lip balm	Pocket Knife
shoelace, 10' line	Headlamp + batteries