Note: the term 'guide' has grown in definiton over time. Most of the companies I list on this page offer 'guided' climbs but this does not mean a 1:1 ratio between western guide and client. It means that there is one 'leader' who is on the mountain with many clients at the same time. On large Himalayan peaks it is common to have a wide range of guide to client ratios from 1:1 to 1:4 to 1:20 The large teams supplement the guide/leader ratio with Sherpas (at an addition cost) at ratios from 1:1 up to 1:4 Sherpa to client.

The best companies keep their total clients in a single push under eight with a 1:1 sherpa:client ratio plus at least one, preferably more, experienced western guides. And they have several Sherpas on standby at a high camp for emergencies.

With large groups or high ratios, if you get in trouble (fall, illness, or lost) you might not be able to reach your western guide/leader or qualified Sherpa for help. If you really want a true 'guide' then you will pay more than their top price listed but you can get a 1:1 ratio with an experienced western guide. While a company may have a good reputation, your experience could be fantastic or a disaster depending on the on-mountain leadership. Spend as much time understanding, researching and interviewing your leaders and the expedition organization as you do the company and the mountain.

The indicates a company I would seriously consider without hesitation based on their safety record, interaction with customers, summit success and to some extent pricing value. All of this has been sustained over many years and many types of expeditions. The others are good companies but warrant further research depending on the complexity of the climb and the type of experience you desire.

Everest 2012 Season Coverage Underway

• Alpine Ascents International: I have never personally used AAI, but have seen them in action on many climbs. If money is no object, they may be a good choice for climbers who want a U.S. based company and a little extra hand holding. They run their trips in a strict manner and charge top price so you get a generous guide to client ratio. Their excellent web site is one of the best anywhere and has loads of information from gear to training. While they have an excellent reputation, they follow a proven formula so understand what you are getting into if you are looking for a more independent climb. My bottom line opinion: Consider them if you are wanting a bit more attention and have a large budget.
  
  
• Adventure Consultants: I used them on Everest in 2003 and 2002 and Ama Dablam in 2000. They operates out Wanaka, New Zealand and run expeditions all around the world especially the Himalayas. Their prices are amongst the highest but you get many luxuries on the big Hills. They limit their teams to 9-12 climbers, have seasoned western guides and excellent Sherpas. The teams are usually very international which I prefer. Their safety record is outstanding and usually perform well on getting people to the summit. Guy runs a first rate operation, especially when he is on the climb. My bottom line opinion: Consider them if you are looking for an international flavor, and your budget is large.
  
  
• Himalayan Experience: Russell Brice, owner, is a New Zealander living in Chamonix France. I met him on Cho Oyu and Everest many times. He runs excellent expeditions to Everest's south sides, Lhotse and to Manaslu at top end prices. According to his website, he "no longer runs Everest north or Cho Oyu trips due to the uncertainty in China". He consistently puts climbers safely on the summit year in, year out. Brice has a reputation of tight control so be prepared to follow his rules strictly. He often provides logistics to non-direct clients (Discovery Channel, film makers, other expeditions etc.) so you want to make sure you have his full attention before signing up. His base camps are the best of the best as is his food; as a result his prices are high but not the top surprisingly. My bottom line opinion: I would use them for any climb without question if budget allowed
  
  
• International Mountain Guides: I have climbed with IMG 5 times (Cho Oyu, Vinson, Aconcagua, Everest, Kilimanjaro). Seattle based, Eric Simonson specializes on the Himalayas, Phil Ershler on South America, Antarctica and Elbrus and the other partners for other peaks around the world. IMG is a world-class operation with steady logistics and planning. They run a no-nonsense operation that you can depend on. With their mid range prices, they offer an excellent value. They have a massive support staff on Everest and are prepared for most any emergency. Full disclosure: I selected IMG for 4 of my 7 Summits throughout 2010/2011 and made the summit on all of them-100% success. My bottom line opinion: Best value/safety/independence combination of any guide service and I would use them for any climb without hesitation.
  
  
• Rainier Mountaineering Inc.: RMI is best know for guiding 4,000 people a year up Mt. Rainier in Washington State in the US. I used them with some friends in 2004. I was pleased with the guiding service for our team composed of mostly inexperienced climbers but with so many people, they run a formula climb with little flexibility. RMI has expanded to offer international climbs to leverage their Rainier business. Dave Hahn (13x Everest summit) is one of their elite guide who comes at a premium and is worth it. My bottom line opinion: consider them for Rainier and Denali and some international knowing they run a fairly standard program. Use Hahn if you can afford it and want RMI.

Smaller, Custom Guides

• Altitude Junkies: Owned and run by Phil Crampton, they were instrumental in helping me get to Everest in 2008. Phil has run Everest climbs and managed logistics for other companies including Mountain Madness for years. He has a strong team of Sherpas and knows how to run a solid base camp. His teams are limited to 8 maximum and are typically more experienced and repeat climbers. His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Phil leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. He is one of the few highly experienced guides running Everest north starting again in 2012. My bottom line opinion: Consider them if you want a smallish, boutique climb with personal attention but plan on being self-sufficient.
  
  
• Mountain Trip: I used them for Denali twice with no summit each time. There are six companies authorized to guide on Denali by the National Park Service so I would check out each one and make sure to ask the 10 questions. MT is well known for Denali and run the standard trip like everyone else but offers high price custom trips as well. They have expanded to offer the 7 Summits by partnering with Scott Woolums of Adventure International who has multiple 7 Summits circuit successes. Their overall pricing is with the highest offered for each mountain. Full disclosure: I selected MT for 2 of my 7 Summits throughout 2010/2011 and made the summit on Carstensz Pyramid but not Denali. My bottom line opinion: Very accessible for pre-climb information but carefully consider them for value.
  

Trekking and Other Companies

• Project Himalaya: This is a small company run by Jamie McGuinness based out of Kathmandu. I went to Shishapangma with him in 2007 and was very pleased. If you just want logistics for Everest, he may be the best out there. He has employed the same Sherpas for years and has outstanding BC logistics (food, tents, power,etc.) with smaller teams. His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Jamie leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. His base camp services are outstanding as are his Sherpas who do most of the on-mountain leadership. Their website is one of the best for high quality pictures, and overall mountain information. My bottom line opinion: I would consider him for any Himalaya Trek or Everest North logistics.
  
  
• Mountain Travel-Sobek: I used them on my first trip to Nepal in 1997. Cathy-Ann Taylor led that trip (she still works for them as of 01/12) and is one of the best trekking guides around. First rate trips almost everywhere. Sophisticated web site with a professional look. My bottom line opinion:: I would use them for any trek around the world.
  
  
• Field Touring: In 2005 I climbed Aconcagua and in 2006, Broad Peak with FT. Dave Hancock focus on basement level pricing and targets self-sufficient climbers who think they do not want or need personal guiding or expensive extra services. They run Pakistan climbs each year but get recent references as to the experience, safety and success. If you select them be advised not to expect extensive hand-holding, standard base camp comforts that the more expensive companies offer and attention to details. Get recent references that are at your same ability.
  
  
• Tower Guides: I went ice climbing in the famous Ouray ice park with Andy Petefish in 1999. He Guides at Devil's Tower in Wyoming during the summer. Andy is very professional and a great teacher. Good site with complete information on his services.
  
  
• Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides: Both offer trips in Jackson Wyoming. I used JHMG for my Grand Teton trip. Be advised that as of 09/08 only Exum is approved to guide the Exum ridge during the popular summer months. Also speak with your guide before signing up since I found the quality quite variable.
  
  
• St. Elias Alpine Guides: Custom trips to Alaska's Wrangell-St. Elias Mountain range for first ascents and ice climbing. I did some first ascents and ice climbing with them in 1999. They are very willing to make your trip whatever you want. Employees a motivated young team of guides. Basic web site with comprehensive information on their trips.
  
  
• Alaska Mountaineering School: Specializes in Alaska and Denali. I climbed Denali with them in 2007. It was an OK trip with good logistics and guide skills. They ran it too much like a school room (with school in their name, what was I expecting!?) for my taste but it might appeal to climbers with less experience. They were also ultra-ultra-conservative in climbing style. Nice people but Mountain Trip or IMG are better choices for Denali for those looking for a more independent experience.

European and other Companies

• Jagged Globe: A UK based company. I know several people who have used them with good satisfaction. On Everest, they are trying to take culinary delights to new levels, not sure this is why people go to Everest however. But be careful of who your guide is for your trip since there have been some poor experiences. They work with other companies and offer trips almost anywhere. Nice site with many pictures and trip reports. They offer a unique "pre-expedition weekend" where you meet your mates and get a little work in before the trip.
  
• Kobler & Partners: Kari Koebler's guiding company based in Switzerland. I have never used Kari but he is quite popular in Europe. The website is in German.
  
• Wilco van Rooijen: Dutch explorer who runs expeditions around the world. I was with Wilco on Broad Peak/K2 2006 expedition. He summited K2 in 2008. He is an incredibly strong climber based out of the Netherlands. Website is in Dutch.
  
• Borge Ousland: A modern day Amundsen, Borge runs expeditions to both poles. He was the first person - ever - to go solo and unsupported across Antarctica. I was with him on Cho Oyu in the late '90s. Great person with incredible stories. Website is in English.
  
• 7 Summits Club: Russia based and run by Alexander Abramov, they run the 7 Summits and cater to Russian and European clients.

Climbing Schools

• American Alpine Institute: Climbing courses and trips. Located in Washington State. I have no experience with this company, please send me an email if you do!
  
• International Mountain Climbing School: Climbing courses and trips. Located in New Hampshire. I have no experience with this company, please send me an email if you do!
  
• National Outdoor Leadership School: a long time outdoor company
  
• Outward Bound: another long leader in outdoor training

Insurance and Travel

• Travelex: Recommended by many international guides. Must buy within 21 days of registering for a climb
  
• American Alpine Club: Rescue insurance included with membership, travel insurance for climbers available
  
• CTT Destinations: Highly experienced in arranging travel for climbers to any destination around the world. Can make amazing last minute changes especially for the return flights.

* The term 'leading' compared to 'guiding' indicates the expedition does not have a western or lead Sherpa always with the climbers throughout the expedition. This may or may not be important to your selection.

Expedition Companies Reference
Information taken from company websites in early 2012 and are subject to correction and changes.
Visit their sites for latest information.

Please see Selecting a Guide for more information