Gear

I draw from this list depending on the climb. I have honed it over 20 years of climbing and it works for me. A means it is always in my pack from a 14er to Everest. Thumbs Up means it is one of my favorites pieces that works unusually well, I have taken it it on multiple climbs and is highly recommended. The prices are US list. Check out on-line retailers like Backcountry, Moosejaw or eBay for better prices. Use Spadout to monitor for sales. My favorite brands include Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear and Black Diamond. The links provided are for your convenience and I do not earn any money when you click on them. I tend to get cold easily. The key for me staying warm is layers. However over the years, I have changed my approach to layering since I tended to have too many layers at times. Today, it is rare for me to have more than 3 layers even in the most extreme conditions. First, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool - regardless of the outside temp. Then I use a 3 layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in the Mountain Hardware Power Stretch and/or just my Patagonia Guide Pants depending on how cold it is that day. On my top are wind or warmth layers usually the Patagonia Micro Puff and/or Patagonia JetStream Shell. When the temps near 0F or the wind chill is below 0F, I replace the shell with my Feather Friends 850 Fill down jacket plus my BD Mercury mitts. I regulate my body temperature with my top layers plus use the Buff neck gator to manage airflow from my jacket. A popular feature on the site are gear reviews. I only update when I have something new to say. They represent my experience as a regular climber - not a professional - who is not sponsored and has always paid for all my gear except in a few cases that are noted with . DISCUSSION FOR 2013* I will continue for 2013 to stick with the same gear I have used for many climbs. I used almost everything on this page for my 7 Summtis climbs. Please read my 7 Summits gear summary report for insight on what worked well and what didn't. For details on my expedition communications, please see this tutorial. Alan's Gear Rules (under continuous development) 1. Layer next to skin must be merino wool - breathes, wicks and doesn't stink plus feels good. 2. Tops must have zips and collars - manage core temperature via venting or pull up to protect neck from sun and/or cold 3. Jacket must have hood - integral part of core warmth system also serves as a stuff bag 4. Shell leg layer must have full length zips - must to get over boots and/or crampons in a hurry in bad weather 5. Keep Neutrogena's Spectrum Plus Sunblock in pocket and Lip baum on string around neck for easy access and frequent use 6. Always have snack in pocket for easy access. If it is a hassle to reach, you will not use it. Same goes for camera. 7. Use stuff sacks for small items and hoods for jackets or just stuff them into the open space in your pack.

WHAT	MY CHOICE	Current or Alternative Brands	COMMENTS	4000m Climbs CO & CA 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc, Elbrus	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Base Layer - moisture wicking
Use only Merino wool on this layer because it does not stink, wicks well and one pair of tops and bottoms can last literally weeks on a long expedition.
Long underwear Merino wool tops and bottoms	Icebreaker $70 - $95	Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch Zip Tee $95 Marmot: Wool Half Zip $60	Can easily be top layer. Switched from Capiline to Merino wool since it wicks and maintains warmth better. Many good brands out there - as long as it is Merino wool. Read my review	X	X	X
Briefs	Patagonia Boxer $32 Cloudveil Boxer $55	Smartwool $50	Light Patagonia's for approach but heavier Cloudveil for cold, windy days for added comfort.	X	X	X
Socks	REI $13	Smartwool $20 Wigwam $10 Thorlo $14 Costco $2.50	Today, socks are socks so don't overpay. Costco has a deal with a package of four Kirkland Signature Brand for $10. I wear one medium weight pair with no liner. Take your favorite socks when buying new boots. Always have a spare pair in my pack.	X	X	X
Mid Layer - warmth through trapped air				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
I mostly use this layer for the coldest days or extreme altitude summit days
Fleece Bibs	Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch $150		2nd layer over Merino wool. A must have on 6000m+ summit days. The MH Power Stretch Suit is my secret warmth weapon and for added sleeping warmth. Read my review.	winter	X	X
Hoody	Patagonia R1 Hoody $150	Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover Hoody $150	A must have piece when shells are not needed or as one extra layer underneath a shell. Great hood design. Small and lightweight. Always in my pack.	X	X	X
Outer Layer - sun and brush protection				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Most of the time this is my 2nd layer and I live in the same bottom for weeks but switch out tops to sleep or for a change of pace.
Full Zip Shirt	Ibex $50 - $150	Mammut: Kala Patar $119	One for in and a clean one for out, another dedicated for sleeping. Cycling tops work well also. I only use long selves and collars for sun protection plus zips for venting.	X	X approach	X approach
Hoody	Patagonia R1 Hoody $150	First Ascent Hangfire Hoodie $100	Cool day hiking and base camp life. I lived in my Hoody on Denali and Elbrus.	X	X	X
Pants	REI Sahara $60	North Face: Burke $70 Mountain Hardwear: Matterhorn $100	Buy for comfort. Lite colors don't show dirt as bad. I have brands with zip-off legs but never use. Mostly nylon so dries quickly. Warm when used with wool bottom layer.	X	X approach	X approach
Top Layer - wind and rain				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
A critical layer for protection. This is your primary layer exposed to the elements 80% of the time so buy the best you can afford and it will last for decades. Remember, you will add or subtract from this layer so think about where you climb or hike and buy for those primary conditions (snow, rain, sun, hot, cold, etc.) Forget hardshell vs softshell terms, focus on wind, rain, and snow protection plus required warmth layers.
Gortex Bibs	Arc'Teryx Alpha SV $425		Use as top leg layer when winds are brutal. Full zips for easy on/off. Love Arc'Teryx gear but a bit pricey. Was a lifesaver on Aconcagua one year.		X	X
Climbing Pants	Patagonia Guide Pants $175	Mountain Hardwear Nima $150 Mammut: Glacier $259	Strong lined pants that transition from low to high altitudes providing wind, moisture and cold protection. My only winter and expedition pants. Worth the price.	winter	X	X
Rain Gear	Patagonia Rain Shadow Jacket $180 Rain Shadow Pant $150	Marmot PreCip $110	Lightweight 100% waterproof shells for torrential downpours in the PNW, Kilimanjaro or Carstensz. Pants have full length zips	X	X	X approach only
Wind Shirt	Marmot Ion Wind shirt $50	Patagonia: Houdini $125 Camp: Magic Anorak $90 Sierra Design Microlite $42	Weighs nothing but gives great protection in medium wind. Love the hood. Always in my pack. Not a rain shell.	X	X	X approach
"Hard Shell" or Technical Shell Jacket	Patagonia Jetstream $199	Patagonia:Piolet $299 Marmot Oracle $165 Mountain Hardwear: Axial $475 Arc'Teryx: Beta AR $449 Outdoor Research: Mentor $400	This serves as my primary shell top. Replaced heavier Gore Tex hardshell. Very warm with Patagonia Micro Puff (see below). Great hood. Always in my pack since it is so light. Worth the price. Not for heavy rain	X	X	X below 8000M
"Softshell" or light warmth layer	Patagonia Micro Puff w/ Hood $157	Marmot: Baffin $150 Outdoor Research: Mithril $200	Lightweight yet protects from snow, wind and extreme cold. Probably the single most useful jacket I own. This replaced my fleece jacket. Good to 8000m with a couple of layers underneath. Hood makes it all work. A great value! Read my review	X winter	X	X below 8000M
Down Layer - extreme wind and cold				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
This is the "your life depends on it" layer. If you are spending tens of thousands on an 8,00m climb; this layer is not the time to skimp. Buy smart but don't overpay since the gear companies know this as well. No need for huge down jackets or heavy Gore Tex if you have the proper layers underneath - even on Everest or in Antarctica.
Down Suit	North Face Himalayas $750 - $1,000	Mountain Hardwear: Absolute Zero Suit $1000 Feather Friends $1150	Used on Everest, Cho Oyu. I prefer a one piece suit - warmer since it leaves no gaps at the waistline		X optional	X required
Down Jacket	Feather Friends Volant Jacket + Hood $340	Mountain Hardwear: Absolute Zero Parka $650 Patagonia: Das Parka $300	Lightweight, extremely warm - with hood. 850 down fill. Not as robust as some jackets but works for me. Nice pillow when stuffed in a small pillow case from home.	X	X	X below 8000M
Insulated Pants	Mountain Hardware Chugach 3D Pant $130	Integral Designs: Denali Pants $240	Great for BC or colder weather. Lightweight Polarguard pant. Could be summit gear on 7000m climbs with Gortex outer and Powerstretch base. I use for base camp pants all the time.		X	X camp life
Head, Eyes, Feet and Hands				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Glove system is critical here. I like gloves down low or when finger use is paramount and then mittens on summit day. Rig keepers and use hand warmers. Make a Buff a mandatory part of your cold weather system and use it religiously to minimize upper respiratory infections. It is a myth that 50% of your body heat escapes from the scalp so wearing a hat will keep your toes warm but I still wear and sleep with my beanie most of the time.
Wool Beanie	Patagonia Wool Beanie $30	Mountain Hardwear: Micro Dome $30 Marmot: Power Stretch beanie $25	Key to my layering system. Almost always have it on. Also works well under helmet.	X	X	X
Wool Balaclavas and knit caps	Outdoor Research $35	Marmot: Super Hero $55	good for head and face protection against cold and wind but rarely use unless extreme conditions. Buff or Patagonia Hoody does the job.	X	X	X
Neck & Ear Warmer plus skull cap	Buff $30		Absolutely my most frequently used piece of clothing due to it's flexibility and quality. Cover my mouth to warm cold air before breathing. Always in my pack. Read my review.	X	X	X
Long Bill Cap	Patagonia $5 -$25	Dorfman Pacific $15	sun protection during trekking. Long bill is good for face and eye protection.	X	X	X
Glacier Sun Glasses Nose Guard	Julbo Explorer* $150 Beko $9	Julbo: Dolgan, Nomad $45+	Use Julbo Explorer for across all conditions and goggles as backup. Must have the side eye protection. Best with nose guard in bright snow conditions (Denali).	X	X	X
Ski Goggles	Bolle $40 -$100	Smith Turbofan $160 Julbo:Excel $90	Needs to be polarized, easy on/off with 100% UV A and B. Forget anti-fogging, never works but fan might.		X	X
Liners, Outer and Windstopper gloves	Mountain Hardwear Torsion* Medusa* $48- $140	Black Diamond: Tour $95 Outdoor Research: Alti Gloves $150	Tired of thin gloves wearing out so fast, I now only use MH. Torsion as a working glove in for mild temps(above freezing) and Medusa with gauntlet cuff for snow and cold with liner - excellent!	X	X	X
Climbing Gloves	Hestra Alpine Pro $160	Kinko Ski Gloves	Leather glove with wool lining that is warm, rugged and lasts forever with care. Love the durability and dexterity but find my fingers tips get cold in extreme conditions. Used on Everest to South Col. Kinko better value. Read my review	winter	X	X
Alpine Climbing gloves	Black Diamond Mercury Mitt $90	Outdoor Research: Alti Mitt $200	Great value. Must for high altitude summits to prevent frostbite but during long stretches or stops. Always in my winter pack or above 7000m+. Used on Everest to summit.	winter	X	X
Hand warmers	Grabber $2.50	Little Hotties $1	Perfect to keep hands warm but count on half the time advertised for real warmth. Use adhesive one to keep camera warm	X	X	X
Boots and Shoes				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Boots are very personal and you cannot go wrong with most name brands today. But fit is unique so try them on with your favorite pair of socks, don't be afraid to return them for another size even when buying online. There is almost no break-in period with modern boots; you just break your feet into your boot! Also shop for best prices online and don't overpay unless you buy them from your local retailer who provides exquisite personal service. Don't overlook Used Overboots as a warmth option - it works well and saves money over buying multiple boots.
Sandals for base camp	Tevas and Crocs $20 - $80	SwimOutlet	relief from boots in mild weather and stream crossings in warmer weather
base camp Boots	Uggs Bloke $130	North Face: McMurdo $120	Sheepskin lined boots that are warm and comfortable. These are my only shoes at 8000m BC where gear is hauled in.		X	X
ice climbing and alpine mountaineering boots	Koflach: Arctis Expe $460	LaSportiva: Nepal Evo $510 Lowa: Civetta $450 Asolo: AFS 8000 $465	My old standard double plastic boot. Yes there are lighter boots but these have never let me down, are warm and comfortable. No zippers to break, just laces. Solid crampons fit.	X	X	X with overboot
Overboot	Forty Below Purple Haze $130		Amazing warmth when worn over double plastic boots Used on Denali with Koflachs and Kaylands. Only use with crampons or snowshoes since soles are fabric and not Vibram		X	X
High Altitude Alpine climbing	Millet: Everest GTX $825	LaSportiva: Olympus Mons $900 Kayland 8001* $850 Scarpa: Phantom 8000 $870	Integrated boot and gaiter high altitude and extreme cold. Carefully consider sizing since feet swell at altitude. Used Millet for years problem free. Wore LaSportiva on Everest but were too narrow and fragile. Used Kayland 8001 on Vinson but zipper broke on Everest.		X	X required
Lightweight trekking shoes	Kayland, Sorrel, La Sportiva, Montrail $120	Asolo: Flame GTX Vasque: Breeze $110 Patagonia Nomad $185	Never use the heavy leather boots anymore but still like high ankle support. Lots of good boots, seelct based on fit. Don't like velcro laces however.	X	X approach	X approach
Snowshoes	Atlas 12 Series $280	MSR: Evo Ascent $210	Like the larger shoes for more"float" when carrying heavy loads. But the MSRs are a bit lighter and easier to use and has heel lifter for hills.	X	Denali
Booties	Sierra Design Down Booties $30	Feathered Friends: Down Booties $90	relief from boots in the tent and to stay warm in sleeping bag. I like the SD, small, packable can wear inside boot shells or inside sleeping bag. Extremely warm and excellent sole. FF are actually two booties in one.		X	X
Foot Warmers	Hotronics Power Plus m4e $200	HumanEdge HEAT $270	Battery powered footbed warmers designed for skiing but used by many climbers. Used on Everest but battery ran out.			X
Collapsible ski poles	Black Diamond Trail Shock $110	REI: Traverse Powerlock $90 Leki	trekking, helps wear on knees. Look for snap locks, not twist like on Leki. Use only one these days. Read my review.	X	X	X
Sleeping Gear				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
I prefer down over synthetic and have never had an issue with it getting wet but I don't live in a rainy area. Don't waste your money on a -40F/C sleeping bag, get -20F if needed and adjust your clothing inside the bag. Splurge on an excellent pad - the weight tradeoff is not worth a good night's sleep.
0F/-18C Down bag	Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0 $475	Marmot: Never Summer $350	use at lower camps or higher with other clothing. Very light at under 3 lbs. A down filled bag. I actually use this for High Camps and the -20 for BC. Used on Aconcagua, Everest and Elbrus successfully	X	X	X
-20F/-28C Down bag	Mountain Hardwear Wraith -20 $610	Western Mountaineering: Puma MF $640 Feather Friends: Ptarmigan $724	very cold nights, used at High Camps or BC. 800 fill Down. Excellent features like hood, collar, foot box and baffle design. 4lb 8oz - good weight for -20 bag Used on Vinson, Everest and Denali successfully.		X	X
Foam mat	Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite $35		protection from snow, cold and rocks. Z-lite seems to pack smaller than roll versions. Carry 2 - BC and High Camps.	X	X	X
insulated pad	Thermarest $40 - $100 ExPed Down Mat $180	Big Agnes Dual Core $150 Thermarest Neoair $130	air layer for cold protection and comfort. Thermarest is solid. ExPed is more comfy with more weight. Full length, don't cheat with 2/3's length to save weight. Take 2- BC and High Camps.	X	X	X
Pee bottle	Naglene Canteen for men $7 Freshette for women		Pee inside your bag or tent. Pick different shape for easy grab in the dark. Large capacity 2L is best. A must!		X	X
Climbing Equipment				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Buy the best and never cheat. Your life literally depends on this gear.
Helmet	Black Diamond Tracer $90	Petzl: Elios $70 Petzl Ecrin Roc $80	rock climbing or dangerous or crowded areas. Use on almost all climbs today mainly due to climbers above me. Tracer got crushed in duffle by airlines. Ecrin roc heavier but dependable!	X	X	X
Harness	Black Diamond Chaos $75	Petzel: Pandion $65 Black Diamond: Alpine Bod $40 Black Diamond: Ozone $100	attaching to ropes and pro Comfortable climbing harness with gear loops. Chaos is overkill for alpine climbs but I like the leg strap construction and assembly.	X	X	X
Short Ice Axe for ice climbing	Black Diamond Cobra $680/pair	Petzl: Quark $490 pair	ice climbing Cobras are lightweight, well balanced and incredibly effective. Read my review	X depends on route	X depends on route	X depends on route
Long 75 cm Ice Axe for alpine climbs	Black Diamond Raven Pro $90	Grivel: G12/14 Petzel: Snowalker $90	steep ice and snow on alpine routes. lighter shaft and clean picks. I am 5'11" so 75 cm was right length for me. Tape the top with duck tape and foam to prevent cold transfer to hands.	X	X	X
Climbing rope and slings	Mammut Genesis $160	Blue Water Sterling	monitor for wear and ultraviolet light problems ... your life depends on it.	X	X	X
Crampons	Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro $170	Grivel: G12/14 Petzel: Vasak Leverlock $165	steep ice and snow. Like the stainless steel - doesn't rust. A solid product for ice and alpine climbing.	X	X	X
Microspikes	Kahtoola MICROspikes $50	Yaktrax $60	traction for any footwear. Very convenient when crampons are too much but you still need some extra purchase. See my review	X
Locking carabineers Snap-link carabineers	Petzel/ Black Diamond $8	Omega Pacific Mammut	attaching to ropes. locking, twisting, snap. Get BD Nitron use keylock nose for easy fixed line use, no snags.	X	X	X
Figure of 8 descender & ATC	Black Diamond $8	Mammut	rappelling fixed ropes. Nice to have Super 8 for iced ropes and knots.	X	X	X
Ascender jumar with leashes	Petzel $60	Black Diamond: Nforce $70	climbing fixed ropes and protection. Can use with BD Mercury mitts.	X	X	X
Headlamp with lithium batteries	Princeton Quad BL $20	Black Diamond: Ion $20 Black Diamond:Storm $50 Petzel: Tikka $34 Mammut: Lucido TX1	Princeton's features are easy to access and very useful - low battery indicator, 3 brightness. Good battery life. BD Storm offers twice the brightness at 100 lumens however. A torch is always in my pack. Used on Everest.	X	X	X
Carrying and Shelter				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
I have used several brands of packs over the years and have reached the conclusion that there are many solid models out there from the major companies at great prices: Mountain Hardwear, Gregory, Arc'Teryx, Lowe and others. Don't ever waste your money on a custom pack, ever. Be careful of weight but a light weight pack will not carry heavy loads and tire you out faster. So for Denali, get a beefy one, for Everest, go light. There are so many tent options these days it is confUsed. Be careful about how you will use it, number of people, since size does matter as does weight. Double vs single wall - depends on the amount of rain you camp in.
Day or Summit Pack	REI Flash 18 Pack $30		This is a small, lightweight pack that is ideal for short summit climbs or day trips. It holds a hydration bladder plus the 10 essentials. Read my review	X
Trekking Pack	Black Diamond 45L Shadow $99	Dueter: Guide Lite 32 $116 Crux: ak37 $260	The Black Diamond is a great summit pack, daypack for ice climbing, an overnight climb or just a walk-up. A bit heavy and looking to update but still a great pack!!	X	X approach/summit	X approach/summit
Climbing Pack	Osprey Aether 85 5200 cu in/85l $279 Mountain Hardwear South Col 70L $213	Gregory: Denali Pro $500 Black Diamond Mission 75 $230 Lowe Alpine: TFX Expedition $295	These two packs are flexible and comfortable, better than most including expensive custom packs. Never, ever waste your money on a custom pack. Have used both on the 7 Summits with the Osprey my goto for big climbs e.g. Denali. Read my review	X	X	X
Duffle for air and yak transport	Gregory Duffle North Face $90 - $195	Mountain Hardwear: Expedition$130 Patagonia: Black Hole $150 The North Face Base Camp Duffel $180	Get the heaviest fabric to avoid tearing by luggage handlers and the largest size available. Put axes sharp ends in water bottle. Double bag powders. Put itinerary and gear list inside bag for TSA and use TSA approved locks. Used on all climbs successfully.	X	X	X
Tent	North Face VE-25 $530 Big Agnes Seedhouse 2 $475	Mountain Hardwear: Trango $625 Hilleberg: Nallo GT $720	TNF VE-25 is still the best expedition BC tent ever but a little heavy at 10lbs. The Big Agnes Seedhouse Series is very nice 3 Season - inexpensive and lightweight. Trango used on all self carry climbs. Read my review	X	X	X
Accessories & Misc.				4000m Climbs Colorado, California 14ers, Rainier, Mont Blanc	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Stove	Optimus Crux $75 MSR Dragon Fly or XGK-EX ~$145	JetBoil MSR Reactor$160	Canisters are easier but not as efficient at extreme altitude plus the waste and leakage issues. White gas burns hotter and is easier to manage at altitude like Denali.	X	X	X
Water bottles and bladders	Nalgene $7 MSR $35		1 liter with cap attached to avoid losing it, get different shape and color for pee bottle! Highly recommend the MSR Dromedary Bag. It is heavier duty than Camelback and holds hot and cold well.	X	X	X
Water Purification	SteriPEN $100		SImple and sometimes effective water purification Used ultraviolet light. Failed on Aconcagua so don't use anymore on critical climbs.	X	X	X
Bottle Parka	Outdoor Research $24	40Below $20	Must have for the Nalgene when at altitude or in deep freeze environments	X	X	X
Hydration	Thermos $35		must use at altitude to prevent frozen water bottles . Hot tea is wonderful during breaks high up!		X	X
Stuff Sacks	Granite Gear $20-$50	Sea to Summit	Keep gear organized but use jacket hood as it's sack.		X	X
Toiletries	Purell ethyl alcohol hand sanitizer $3 Eye Shades and Ear Plugs		An absolute must in 3rd world countries. Bring several pocket size bottles and always keep with you. keep hands clean without water. teeth, hair, nails, etc. Don't forget Toilet Paper! I use the moist wipes instead of TP. Eye shades needed for Denali, ear plugs (with cord)for noisy tent mates	X	X	X
Medication	See a qualified physician!		Make sure you consult with a qualified physician who has experience with altitude. Your regular family physician may not be qualified for a discussion on high altitude issues. Also, taking information from the internet is dangerous. It may take some work but seek a qualified physician.	X	X	X
First Aid Kit	Adventure Medical Kits band-aids, gauze, moleskin, tape, iodine $25		always have small version with me	X	X	X
Sun and lip protection	Dermatone Lip gloss Neutrogena Sunblock $3 - $10		must have and must use liberally on lips, face, nose, ears, hands. Sunblock must protect against UVA and UVB. Neutrogena's UVA/UVB Sunblock Lotion is excellent. Always in my pack.	X	X	X
Pocket knife / leatherman	Leatherman $50	Spyderco: Ambitious G-10 $45 Buck Redpoint $38 Trango Piranha $20 Petzel Spatha $27	Multiple tools for repairs. attach to harness for quick access. Get newest lightweight model.	X	X	X
Drywipes	Action Wipes	Wet Ones $0.10	workaround when no shower must have on any trip longer then 2 weeks. I use the Wet Ones as TP at camp and the tougher Action Wipes for general clean-up.		X	X
Paperback books				X	X	X
Altitude watch	Suunto Vector $200 - $500		Time, alarm and altitude fairly accurate plus I can replace the battery. Love the log feature. Need to reset altitude daily. Alarm is weak.	X	X	X
Shortwave Radio	Grundig P 2000 $80		for staying current in remote places. Excellent for BBC and VOA. External wire for antenna improves reception. Take transistor to Denali for NPR for Anchorage		X	X
Digital Camera	Canon G10 $500 Nikon D60 $300 - $800		Capturing those great memories use big zoom DSLR 200mm optical during approach and smaller 6X while climbing. 6mp is fine. Use several 4GB cards for safety, not one. Use video on point and shoot. See my Photography page.	X	X	X
Emergency Tracker	SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger $200+		Use to let family know I am safe when out of cell phone range. Plus nice to review track progress back home. Read my review.	X	X	X
GPS	Garmin- eTrex Vista $300		easy, full featured navigation tool. Awkward on alpine trips due to lack of line of sight for the satellites. compass works fine. eats batteries	X	X
Compass			Liquid filled with mirror. when all else fails, set for return to camp	X	X	X
Small Towel			I always forget!		X	X
Music & Videos	Apple iPod Mini or Shuffle		gota have. iPods of all types are must popular for music, Podcasts and videos. Load it up before you leave and enjoy at night and rest days.	X	X	X
Earbuds	Etymotic Research HF5 $100		Excellent sound quality(and bass) but also doubles as outstanding ear plugs for noisy nights. Perfect for long plane rides as well.	X	X	X
Batteries	Energizer Lithium $2		no tunes or lights without power. Lithium are best for cold. Take a lot. Buy in bulk online	X	X	X
Bag for storage at hotel on expeditions			include a lock and white medical tape and felt pen for labeling		X	X
Energy Bars and Gels	Honey Stinger Bars, Gels and Chews $1.5-$3.00		The only 'energy' product I have used where I can feel a boost. All natural honey digest easily and does not spike. Everyone is different but these work for me.	X	X	X
Electrolyte Replacement	Camelbak Nuun ~$1 per L		Electrolyte replacement. Adds a little taste to plain water but keeps your system in balance. Always use on every hike or climb. A bit pricey but worth it	X	X	X
Cup and Bowl	Stanley Cup $15 Bowl $10 Spoon $1		I like the Stanley nested cups with lid, the simple Rubbermaid tupperware bowl to eat with Lexan big spoon. Unbreakable and holds big potions. All easy to clean with snow or grit!	X	X	X
The 10+ Essentials			Extra clothing, Map, Water, Food, Compass, Headlamp with extra batteries/bulbs, First-aid kit, Sunglasses, Pocket knife, Sunscreen, Matches in waterproof container and firestarter PLUS Cell/Sat Phone, pencil/paper, whistle, space blanket	X	X	X
Technology - Hardware to Communicate Email, Dispatches
Hand held Radio	Yaesu		Excellent hand held radio that is lightweight, reliable and battery stingy.
Satellite Phone	Thuraya $600 - $1000 Iridium $1200+		Coverage only in Asia, Middle East, Western Europe not Northern but more reliable then Iridium and Globalstar in my experience. Sign up with Fone Recharge for easy purchase of minutes from the phone. Per minute rates vary but are less than 1US$/minute. They have ISP service so you simply dial 1722 and your surfing at 9600 baud! Bgan is great at BC for fast data only transfers. Iridium is true global solution but very spotty in high mountains - use Thuraya if you have a choice. Warning: Thuraya SIMs must be renewed annually so verify your subscription before leaving home.
Solar Panel	Solar Blatz Feather 20 $439	Brunton Goal Zero Solio $90	Amazingly simple and effective. Make sure you calculate all the amperage needed for all devices laptops, camera, iPods, etc. Usually you use panel to charge a battery then recharge devices from the battery . I used the Feather 20 to keep my Sat phone charged - carried it with me in my day pack and to High Camps - very lightweight. Can recharge anything with a 12V car adaptor. Click here for an excellent tutorial on solar panels
12V 7ma Battery	gel cell, approved for air transport		Must for cloudy days when panel will not work. Motorcycle size for limited charging. Full size for heavy use. Again, understand your amp load or you will be short. Batterystuff.com and Power-Sonic are good source for most of the power items listed on this page.
DC-AC Converter	Various $50		recharge laptop from battery. make sure the converter provides enough amps. Most Laptops need 3ma or more. Highly recommend testing extensively before you leave home Used the solar panel and battery combos!
Cables	Various $5 - $25		You will need all sorts of male and female 12V cigarette lighter style and alligator clip cables to connect everything. Powerportstore is a good source.
PDA	iPAQ $645		Can replace Notebook when used with keyboard. Make sure the card slot supports your camera card e.g. SD more standard or Memorystick Sony only. This is required if you will email or upload images. Newest models have terrible battery life in cold temps so carry recharger and extra batteries. Must buy used. Use Ebay or from Amazon
Keyboard	Foldable Keyboard $80		A must for anything more than a quick note on the PDA. Lightweight, folds to same size as PDA, inexpensive. Works great on a flat and solid surface- a handy accessory.
Mini, Netbooks and Notebook Computer	Apple MacBookAir $1500	Various HP, Dell, etc.	Perfect for traveling and base camp. At 3lbs, thin and light, I used the solid state MacBook Air for 7 Summits successfully. Use Parallels software to run Windows programs if needed on the Mac - excellent. Never take moving disc (HDD) since it will fail at altitude.
Multi-Meter	Radio Shack $20		must have for trouble shooting. *Bring at least three extra fuses for every fuse type you have. Also wire nuts, electrical tape and a variety of small screwdrivers*
Technology - Software
Dispatch Systems	CONTACT 5		Full service system from HumanEdge technology. Fair price, excellent upload performance worldwide. Can integrate into existing websites or Wordpress with work or run standalone. See my Blog. Requires sat phones e.g. Thuraya or Iridium and iphone (2012) or PDA.
Blogging Server	Wordpress		Free software that runs on your server and enables automatic posting from PDA or PC. Be careful for bandwidth usage.
Image Management	Pocket Artist $50		PDA software that makes images smaller to speed upload time over sat phone. Not available for iPhone
Email	Pocket PC		Included on most PDAs. Just configure for your POP mail server just like on your home PC
Server			Your website host. I use Hostway in the US
Audio Dispatch	HipCast		low cost service that links to your website or Blog allowing you to call a US number, leave a message and in less than a minute the world hears your voice on your site.
Always in my pack or on me from a 14er to Everest
Clothing	Eating and Food		Misc			WInter
Socks	Water		pencil/paper			Ice Axe
Rain Pants	Energy Bars , Hydration Tablets		Cell/Sat Phone			Crampons
Soft Shell & Wind Shirt	TP		Map			Shovel (depending on terrain)
Hoody	Survival		Compass
Warm Gloves	space blanket or Bivy Sack		First Aid Kit
Neck Buff, skull hat and cap	Matches, Lighter, Fire Starter		iPod :-) and earbuds
Sunglasses	Whistle		Digital Camera
Sunscreen, lip balm	Pocket Knife
shoelace, 10' line	Headlamp + batteries