Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
UPDATE: The site has been down a few times recently. The issues are resolved, and I apologize for the lack of access.
CLIMBER · COACH · WRITER · ADVOCATE
Summiting Everest in 2011, and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent almost three decades as both a high-altitude climber and one of the most trusted independent voices in mountaineering journalism.
This site is a record of that journey: 36 major expeditions on seven continents, hundreds of pages of trip reports, gear and guide reviews, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind each climb and every Himalayan and Karakorum season.
Climbing the world to end Alzheimer’s.
01
Authoritative Everest coverage since 2002 — 24 consecutive seasons of no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.
02
Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition was documented with photos and honest accounts.
03
Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success only.
04
Captivating talks on peak business and personal performance, Alzheimer’s awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering for any audience.
After three previous attempts in 2002, 2003, and 2008 — each raising Alzheimer’s research funding — Alan reached the summit of the world’s highest peak on his fourth attempt at 29,032 feet at age 54.
Becoming the 18th and oldest American to summit K2, Alan climbed the world’s most dangerous mountain for his mother, Ida and the fight against Alzheimer’s — raising research funding across every expedition.
Seven continents. Eight 8,000-meter peaks. 58 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks. A lifetime of purpose-driven climbing.
Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, didn’t just “summit” Everest on May 20; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (approx. 700 miles), starting on March 4th, 2026, from the village of Digha, India, on the Indian Ocean. Oh, then he walked back, covering 2,000 km (1,242 miles) over more than 100
The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to check in and begin their climbs. One team that did summit was one
After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa “Hillary” Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite the ladders having been removed. He
Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That’s my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, “normal.”
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines, it was actually a fairly normal season. As usual, there were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many
We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O’s climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os—also, an update on what qualifies for
Summiting K2 for Ida
“Alan Arnette took on K2 — one of the most dangerous mountain on earth — not for himself, but for his mother and the fight against Alzheimer’s. This is a story about what real purpose looks like at altitude.”Ed Viesturs — The only American to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
“A surge of debilitating fatigue overtook me. My shoulders drooped. I stared at my yellow boots, crushed by disappointment… My ice axe fell onto the snow. It was 12:30 a.m. on July 27, 2014 — my fifty-eighth birthday.”
53,000 words · Foreword by Jim Davidson
Alan’s YouTube channel covers Everest, K2 and more climbing seasons, with personal expedition narratives and mountaineering insights. Subscribe to be notified of new videos.
“Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you.”
“Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can't wait for the memoir.”
“The way you tell these stories is unmatched — pure storytelling.”
In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer’s advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.
After 36 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.
His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.
As an independent coach, Alan doesn’t work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience level, and your life.
“When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
“Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest climb.
Across 36 expeditions on seven continents, Alan has raised nearly half a million dollars for Alzheimer’s research and awareness — in memory of his mother Ida, who passed from Alzheimer’s on August 16, 2009.
CLIMBER · COACH · WRITER · ADVOCATE
Summiting Everest in 2011, and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent almost three decades as both a high-altitude climber and one of the most trusted independent voices in mountaineering journalism.
This site is a record of that journey: 36 major expeditions on seven continents, hundreds of pages of trip reports, gear and guide reviews, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind each climb and every Himalayan and Karakorum season.
Climbing the world to end Alzheimer’s.
01
Authoritative Everest coverage since 2002 — 24 consecutive seasons of no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.
02
Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition was documented with photos and honest accounts.
03
Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success only.
04
Captivating talks on peak business and personal performance, Alzheimer’s awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering for any audience.
After three previous attempts in 2002, 2003, and 2008 — each raising Alzheimer’s research funding — Alan reached the summit of the world’s highest peak on his fourth attempt at 29,032 feet at age 54.
Becoming the 18th and oldest American to summit K2, Alan climbed the world’s most dangerous mountain for his mother, Ida and the fight against Alzheimer’s — raising research funding across every expedition.
Seven continents. Eight 8,000-meter peaks. 58 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks. A lifetime of purpose-driven climbing.
Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, didn’t just “summit” Everest on May 20; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (approx. 700 miles), starting on March 4th, 2026, from the village of Digha, India, on the Indian Ocean. Oh, then he walked back, covering 2,000 km (1,242 miles) over more than 100
The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to check in and begin their climbs. One team that did summit was one
After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa “Hillary” Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite the ladders having been removed. He
Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That’s my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, “normal.”
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines, it was actually a fairly normal season. As usual, there were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many
We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O’s climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os—also, an update on what qualifies for
Summiting K2 for Ida
“Alan Arnette took on K2 — one of the most dangerous mountain on earth — not for himself, but for his mother and the fight against Alzheimer’s. This is a story about what real purpose looks like at altitude.”Ed Viesturs — The only American to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
“A surge of debilitating fatigue overtook me. My shoulders drooped. I stared at my yellow boots, crushed by disappointment… My ice axe fell onto the snow. It was 12:30 a.m. on July 27, 2014 — my fifty-eighth birthday.”
53,000 words · Foreword by Jim Davidson
Alan’s YouTube channel covers Everest, K2 and more climbing seasons, with personal expedition narratives and mountaineering insights. Subscribe to be notified of new videos.
“Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you.”
“Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can't wait for the memoir.”
“The way you tell these stories is unmatched — pure storytelling.”
In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer’s advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.
After 36 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.
His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.
As an independent coach, Alan doesn’t work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience level, and your life.
“When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
“Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest climb.
Across 36 expeditions on seven continents, Alan has raised nearly half a million dollars for Alzheimer’s research and awareness — in memory of his mother Ida, who passed from Alzheimer’s on August 16, 2009.