Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
CLIMBER · COACH · WRITER · ADVOCATE
Summiting Everest in 2011 and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent almost three decades as both a high-altitude climber and one of the most trusted independent voices in mountaineering journalism.
This site is a record of that journey: 36 major expeditions on seven continents, hundreds of pages of trip reports, gear and guide reviews, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind each climb and every Himalayan and Karakorum season.
Climbing the world to end Alzheimer’s.
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Authoritative Everest coverage since 2002 — 24 consecutive seasons of no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.
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Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition was documented with photos and honest accounts, even the no-summit expeditions.
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Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success only.
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Captivating talks on peak business and personal performance, Alzheimer’s awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering for any audience.
After three previous attempts in 2002, 2003, and 2008 — each raising Alzheimer’s research funding — Alan reached the summit of the world’s highest peak on his fourth attempt at 29,032 feet at age 54.
Becoming the 18th and oldest, at the time, American to summit K2, Alan climbed the world’s most dangerous mountain for his mother, Ida and the fight against Alzheimer’s — raising research funding across every expedition.
Seven continents. Eight 8,000-meter peaks. 58 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks. A lifetime of purpose-driven climbing.
Despite a brutal year in the high mountains—including 20 dead or presumed dead during Nepal’s autumn season and the 10 killed on Broad Peak in Pakistan in July—the 2026 autumn Himalayan climbing season continues. A small four-person Russian team is currently climbing on Everest, scouting a possible new route for
A couple of months ago, I talked about the tragedy on Broad Peak. Many of you listened and left thoughtful comments. Thank you for that. Since then, it’s been a tough season in the mountains. A really hard year. I took some time to think deeply about a few key
Climbers missing after avalanche hits Himlung Base Camp—fourteen people are missing. Himlung Himal (7,126 m), in Manang district, requires an additional permit for helicopter flights, adding to the difficulties of reaching the mountain.
Himlung has been heavily marketed since Nepal floated the idea of requiring a 7,000-meter climb in Nepal
It’s over on Manaslu. Even the rope-fixers are bailing as the typhoon is about to make landfall, bringing, perhaps, feet of snow to the higher elevations across the Himalaya. The Nepali weather experts are warning of potential flooding in Kathmandu and other areas. #manaslu2026
With the recent heavy snows, it was inevitable that the upper slopes of Manaslu would see some avalanche activity. If that wasn’t enough, the signs of an impending typhoon hitting the area are increasing. It’s time for every climber and team to gather data and make responsible decisions. #manaslu2026
With China closing Tibet to mountaineering this autumn and recent floods making travel to many areas in Nepal difficult, operators focused on Manaslu, and climbers came.
Nepali authorities have issued a record 451 climbing permits to foreign climbers on Manaslu (8,163 meters/26,781 feet), with a 1:1.5 member-to-support ratio, which could
As an independent coach, Alan doesn’t work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience level, and your life.
“When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
“Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest and K2 summits.
After 36 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.
His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.
Summiting K2 for Ida
“Alan Arnette took on K2 — one of the most dangerous mountain on earth — not for himself, but for his mother and the fight against Alzheimer’s. This is a story about what real purpose looks like at altitude.”Ed Viesturs — The only American to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
“A surge of debilitating fatigue overtook me. My shoulders drooped. I stared at my yellow boots, crushed by disappointment… My ice axe fell onto the snow. It was 12:30 a.m. on July 27, 2014 — my fifty-eighth birthday.”
56,000 words · Foreword by Jim Davidson
Alan’s YouTube channel covers Everest, K2 and more climbing seasons, with personal expedition narratives and mountaineering insights. Subscribe to be notified of new videos.
“Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you.”
“Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can't wait for the memoir.”
“The way you tell these stories is unmatched — pure storytelling.”
In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer’s advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.
Across 36 expeditions on seven continents, Alan has raised nearly half a million dollars for Alzheimer’s research and awareness — in memory of his mother Ida, who passed from Alzheimer’s on August 16, 2009.