Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
CLIMBER · COACH · WRITER · ADVOCATE
Summiting Everest in 2011 and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent almost three decades as both a high-altitude climber and one of the most trusted independent voices in mountaineering journalism,
This site is a record of that journey: 36 major expeditions on seven continents, hundreds of pages of trip reports, gear and guide reviews, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind each climb and every Himalayan and Karakorum season.
Climbing the world to end Alzheimer’s.
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Authoritative Everest coverage since 2002 — 24 consecutive seasons of no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.
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Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition was documented with photos and honest accounts, even the no-summit expeditions.
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Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success only.
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Captivating talks on peak business and personal performance, Alzheimer’s awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering for any audience.
After three previous attempts in 2002, 2003, and 2008 — each raising Alzheimer’s research funding — Alan reached the summit of the world’s highest peak on his fourth attempt at 29,032 feet at age 54.
Becoming the 18th and oldest, at the time, American to summit K2, Alan climbed the world’s most dangerous mountain for his mother, Ida and the fight against Alzheimer’s — raising research funding across every expedition.
Seven continents. Eight 8,000-meter peaks. 58 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks. A lifetime of purpose-driven climbing.
Two weeks ago today, on July 30, 2026, ten climbers died in a single avalanche on Broad Peak. The event has received extensive media coverage, in part because Nirmal “Nims” Purja, one of the most consequential mountaineers of his generation, died. Also among the dead were six other highly experienced
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, planned to climb two 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett, but not everything went as planned. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. Both climbers wanted to climb without supplemental oxygen.
It’s only been a few days since the massive earthquake on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, and search teams, operators’ home teams, and the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) have confirmed that there were no survivors. Now the priority has shifted from rescue to recovery.
I always hesitate to post about climbing accidents too early, as there is a tremendous amount of misinformation in the mainstream media and especially on social media; thus, this is a preliminary post with as much information as I can confirm as of midday, July 31, 2026.
Apparently, around 9:30
The Karakorum continues to be quiet as we approach the end of July. There have been summits only on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. High winds have hampered attempts on K2, while other issues have emerged on GI and Broad Peak.
In a quiet season, with poor weather stalling progress, there is climbing across the Karakorum. While the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat feel like a long time ago, a few teams have reached several of Pakistan’s five 8,000-meter peaks and are on their summit bids.
As an independent coach, Alan doesn’t work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience level, and your life.
“When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
“Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest and K2 summits.
After 36 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.
His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.
Summiting K2 for Ida
“Alan Arnette took on K2 — one of the most dangerous mountain on earth — not for himself, but for his mother and the fight against Alzheimer’s. This is a story about what real purpose looks like at altitude.”Ed Viesturs — The only American to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
“A surge of debilitating fatigue overtook me. My shoulders drooped. I stared at my yellow boots, crushed by disappointment… My ice axe fell onto the snow. It was 12:30 a.m. on July 27, 2014 — my fifty-eighth birthday.”
56,000 words · Foreword by Jim Davidson
Alan’s YouTube channel covers Everest, K2 and more climbing seasons, with personal expedition narratives and mountaineering insights. Subscribe to be notified of new videos.
“Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you.”
“Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can't wait for the memoir.”
“The way you tell these stories is unmatched — pure storytelling.”
In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer’s advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.
Across 36 expeditions on seven continents, Alan has raised nearly half a million dollars for Alzheimer’s research and awareness — in memory of his mother Ida, who passed from Alzheimer’s on August 16, 2009.