I climbed Everest twice - in 2002 and again in 2003 - from the south side. I made it to about 27,000 feet both years before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. I returned in April and May of 2008 to attempt the summit from the South Col. I joined a small team of 3 climbers.

2008 was a unique year on Everest since the Chinese took the Olympic torch to the summit. However extensive controversy occurred when the Chinese asked all north side expeditions to not step on the mountain until May 10th - very late to execute a successful acclimatizion schedule and summit. So at the last minute we changed to the south side or from Nepal. But even in Nepal, the Chinese held tight control with communication and climbing restrictions that almost put the entire season in jeopardy.

My training was more intensive than ever. For my previous climbs in 2002 and 2003, I trained on my Colorado mountains as well lots of exercise. For 2008, in addition to my 14ers, I incorporated four high altitude climbs over the previous 12 months. They included Denali, Shishapangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba.

Complete live coverage posted during the 2008 climb can be viewed on the dispatch page.

By way of my own climbing experiences (this was my 6th 8000m climb) and my Everest coverage each year since 2004, I tried to learn what allows for a successful summit. In consultation with other climbers, I had a good plan for 2008 that took into account six critical areas: acclimatization, nutrition, hydration, oxygen, clothing and rest - plus mental toughness.

Please see my completely new Everest Frequently Asked Questions page with a new section on the 2008 climb.

I have written a very extensive and detailed recap of my summit experience plus a many exclusive hi-resolution pictures taken during the 2008 climb. It is in PDF form and can be downloaded from this link:

Everest 2008: Summit of Politics