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Feb 242020
Everest 2020: Team Locations and Headlines

LATEST HEADLINE 2020 Season To Begin April 1, 2020 Welcome to the 2020 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2020 coverage 2019 Stats – Will be Updated continue reading

Feb 282020
Update on Coronavirus Impact on 2020 Spring Everest Season

I’ve been speaking with foreign and Nepali operators, plus Nepali officials, about the impact of the Coronavirus on the Everest season. Bottom line is that there are already cancellations but it appears as of this writing the Tibet side will remain open. Officials tell me they expect the number of climbers to be cut in half on both sides. Nepal issued 382 permits in 2019, but for 2020 less than 250 are now expected. And only 50 on the Tibet side. This does not include support which is about the same as the number of permits issued. Many Chinese climbers continue reading

Feb 272020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Over for All

And then there were none. Alex Txikon ended his effort as did Jost Kobuschh. Everest in winter is just too difficult this year. Everyone is back at base camp now. There were no winter summits on the four 8000ers attempted this winter: Everest, K2, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum I/II. Now, on to the spring season! Join me as I do my annual coverage of the spring Everest season at this link. Everest – Over Jost on West Ridge – Over German alpinist, Jost Kobuschh’s is back down to base camp after tagging his high point at 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. He said before starting the continue reading

Feb 252020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Teams on the Move

One is going for the summit and one is doing laps on Everest. We will know at the end of this week if Everest will see a winter summit this season. Everest Jost on West Ridge – Broke 7200m, Time running out German alpinist, Jost Kobuschh’s is back down to his Camp 1 at 6,100-meters/20,000-feet after establishing Camp 2 a couple of days ago at 6,760-meters according to his tracker. His high point for this expedition is 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. There have been high winds, so he may be satisfied to have touched the West Ridge and is returning base camp. He told reporters continue reading

Feb 242020
Everest 2020: Welcome to Everest 2020 Coverage

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2020 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2020 and am actively covering the current winter Everest attempts so let me officially welcome you. This will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 13 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004,  2005,  2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and now 2020 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you are one of my 2 continue reading

Feb 232020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Final Winter Summit Pushes, Surprise New Team

The two expeditions left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest, are starting their final pushes. One is already in the midst.  The wildcard, as always, will be the weather and this week’s forecast has a few short windows, but nothing ideal, especially in winter. Wind chills are consistently forecasted around -50F/C, the limit for most climbers. Everest Jost on West Ridge – Nearing the West Ridge, Time running out German alpinist, Jost Kobuschh’s is at his high point for this expedition, 7,329-meters/23,750-feet at his C2 according to his tracker. But the last reported location was Saturday, February 22, at 6:16 continue reading

Feb 212020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Only Two Left

Only two teams are left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest and both are struggling. Both suggest one more attempt to get as high as possible before ending their efforts. While the temps have been cold and the winds high, there is running water at Everest Base Camp, a warning sign for the spring season. Denis Urbuko ended his winter Broad Peak effort and his 8000er career. Everest Jost on West Ridge – Potentially nearing the End German alpinist Jost Kobuschh’s last trip from EBC to his C1 was disappointing and he feels he may be near the end continue reading

Feb 172020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Ends Broad Peak Summit Push

Denis Urbuko ended his winter Broad Peak effort after reaching 7000m, getting hit by an avalanche. Spaniard Oscar Cardo on Alex Txikon’s team evacuated from Everest C2 with some form of AMS. Controversy over the early termination of the K2 expedition. Broad Peak – Over – Hit by Avalanche Denis Urubko ended his summit bid citing several issues. His message to his partner Maria Cardell: I am in BC, no summit but survived despite some incidents Wind was 70-80 km at the top. An avalanche slide me for 100 m, then I fall down with a broken fixed rope for continue reading

Feb 152020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Launch Broad Peak Summit Push tomorrow

Broad Peak weather forecast changed so Urbuko will leave for the summit Sunday, February 16 aiming to top out on the 17th. He’s alone with no comms so we won’t have any updates until mid-week. Txikon moved to C2 on Everest while Jost seems to be exploring options for the West Ridge. Broad Peak – Targeting February 17 Denis Urubko is working the schedule around the weather. Txikon’s home team including Pintér László and Mozgasvilag gave this update: Denis sent an SMS to Pipi Cardell a few minutes ago: “16feb BC-C3, 17feb try summit 🙂 Than BC and expedition finished” This means that continue reading

Feb 142020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs:What Went Wrong on K2?

I was quite surprised when I read the news from John Snorri that their winter K2 attempt had come to a sudden halt and all members had flown back to Askole. I’ve known the expedition leader, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s and his Imagine Nepal guide company for years and highly respect his skills and leadership ability. The big picture is the expedition was delayed arriving at K2 Base Caamp by deep snow on the Baltoro glacier. The extreme cold temps below -30C/-22F took a toll on humans, supplies, and gear. They lacked K2 Winter experience to fully understand the challenge as they continue reading