Mt. Everest
Himalayas - Nepal/Tibet
29,035 feet 8850m

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I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed it three other times (all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003 and 2008 each time reaching just below the Balcony around 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. I attempted Lhotse twice - 2015 and 2016. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 , 2017, 2018, 2019, a virtual 2020 season, 2021, 2022, 2023 and now the 2024 season.

This page is an overview of Everest climbs and an index for the other pages with more information on routes, pictures, essays, trip reports and more.

Follow Alan Arnette's Everest 2024 Coverage

"one of the world's most respected chronicler of Everest" - Outside Magazine

Everest from Camp 2 at sunsetMt. Everest is the most famous mountain in the world. Drawing climbers for almost a century, it is know as Chomolungma Peak in Tibet and Mount Sagarmatha in Nepal.

The north side was first attempted by a British team in 1922. They reached 27,300' before turning back. The 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine was notable for the mystery of whether they summited or not. Mallory's body was found in 1999 but there was no proof that he died going up or coming down. It was a Chinese team who made the first summit from Tibet on May 25, 1960 by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-zhou who is said to have climbed the Second Step in his sock feet.

However, the first summit of Mt. Everest was by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary with a British expedition in 1953. They took the South Col route which is used by the majority of modern expeditions. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of note, Norgay was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest.

Today, hundreds of climbers from around world try to stand on top of the world.

Statistics Updated through January 2024

The Himalayan Database reports that through January 2024, there have been 11,996 summits (5,899 members and 6,097 hired) on Everest by all routes by 6,664 different people. Those climbers who have summited multiple times include 1,571 members and 1,048 Sherpa, for 5,333 total summits. There have been 883 summits by women members.

Summits
The Nepal side is more popular, with 8,350 summits compared to 3,646 summits from the Tibet side. Only 1.9% or 224 climbers summited without supplemental oxygen. Only 35 climbers have traversed from one side to the other. Member summit success stands at 39%, with 5,899 who attempted to summit, making it out of 14,496 who tried. About 62% of all expeditions put at least one member on the summit. Few climbers from both Nepal and Tibet have summited, only 668. And even fewer, 155, have summited more than once in a single season. Almost only Sherpas, 78, have summited within seven days of their first summit that season. Kami Rita Sherpa (Thami) holds the record for most summits at 29 and Kenton Cool, UK, at 17 for a non-Sherpa. Seven Sherpa have 20 or more summits. Member climbers from the USA have the most country member summits at 906.

Deaths
As for Everest deaths, 327 people (199 Westerners and 110 Sherpas) died from 1922 to January 2024. These deaths are about 2.7% of those who summited for a death rate of 1.11 of those who attempted to make the summit. Westerners die at a higher rate, 1.38, compared to hired at 0.87. Descending from the summit bid is deadly, with 92 deaths, or 28% of the total deaths. Female climbers have a lower death rate at 0.81 compared to 1.14 for male climbers, and 14 women have died on Everest. The Nepal side has seen 217 deaths or 2.8%, a rate of 1.14. The Tibet side has experienced 110 deaths or 3%, a rate of 1.09. Climbers from the UK and Japan have the most all-time deaths at 17. Most bodies are still on the mountain, but China has removed many bodies from sight on their side. The top causes of death are avalanches (77), falls (75), altitude sickness (45), and exposure (26).

Latest: Spring 2023
In 2023, there were 667 summits, including only 12 from Tibet as it was closed to foreigners but 665 from Nepal, and all but 3 used supplemental oxygen. There were a record 18 deaths of Everest climbers. 57% of all attempts by members were successful. Of the total, 61 females summited.

Everest compared to Other 8000ers
Everest is becoming safer even though more people are now climbing. From 1923 to 1999, 170 people died on Everest with 1,170 summits or 14.5%. But the deaths drastically declined from 2000 to 2023, with 10,826 summits and 157 deaths or 1.4%. However, four years skewed the death rates, with 17 in 2014, 14 in 2015, 11 in 2019, and the record 18 in 2023. The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better significantly higher Sherpa support ratios, improved supplemental oxygen at higher flow rates (up to 8 lpm) gear, weather forecasting, and more people climbing with commercial operations.

Of the 8000-meter peaks, Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths (member and hired) at 327 but ranks near the bottom with a death rate of 1.11. Annapurna is the most deadly 8000er, with one death for about every fifteen summits (73:476) or a 3.76 death rate. Cho Oyu is the safest, with 4,044 summits and 52 deaths or a death rate of 0.40, with Lhotse next at 0.38. Of note, 79 Everest member climbers out of 200 members deaths died descending from the summit, or 39%. K2's death rate has fallen dramatically from the historic 1:4 to around 1:8, primarily due to more commercial expeditions with huge Sherpa support ratios.


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Everest 2002 Climb

Everest 2002


In 2002 I attempted Everest using the Southeast ridge route. This was my most difficult climb thus far due to the length of the trip, logistics and health. I reached 27,200' (8250m), a personal record, before turning back just below the balcony due to a lung infection. It was a fabulous trip that I never anticipated making when I starting climbing seven years earlier.

There were 155 summits in 2002 with 2 deaths.

Continue reading about the Everest 2002 climb.

Everest 2003 Climb

Everest 2003


I returned to Everest in 2003, to attempt the South side again. While it was incredible to be back only ten months after my 2002 climb, it was a big disappointment with altitude sickness and weather problems. I knew about halfway through I would not summit so I reset my goal to go as high as I could - safely - and reached 27,200' (8250m), the exact same spot as 2002.

There were 267 summits in 2003 with 4 deaths.

Continue reading about the Everest 2003 climb.

Everest 2004 Coverage

Everest 2004


Over 337 climbers reached the summit on all routes, 99 on May 16 and 17 alone!. 169 summiteers were clients, 169 guides and Sherpas. There were 7 deaths. By far, Sherpas have summited Everest more than any other category of climber. The most sought out Sherpas have summited 5 or more times and know the routes, conditions and how to deal with Westerners.

Continue reading about Everest in 2004

Everest 2005 Coverage

Everest 2005


Quite a season! The summits on May 21 were the latest first summit day in 45 years of climbing Mt. Everest. Norgay and Hillary did it on May 29, the earliest was April 4 in 1984. But it was still a good year for summits with 307 climbers standing on the top of the world. Sadly there were 6 deaths.

The season started quickly with teams arriving early and getting their acclimation trips in by early May. They were assuming a "normal" season with first summits around May 15. But the Jet just sat there. It didn't move and when it did, it came back so quickly that the 3-day window never materialized. So the climbers sat in base camps. Some went down valley to enjoy the rich air and sleep on real beds, some went on sight seeing trips to nearby Monasteries and other just sat there. But they entertained themselves with chess games, concerts, hockey games and swap meets. These climbers are creative if nothing else!

Continue reading about Everest in 2005

Everest 2006 Coverage

Everest 2006


The season started with controversy as the political unrest in Katmandu delayed many expeditions and created uncertainty that gear and climbers would arrive on time. However it all got sorted as seasoned leaders guided their teams through the bureaucracy, small arms fire and chaos that comes with a country in turmoil.

But by early April base camp on both sides were established and teams got settled in. However there was a huge surprise for this season! The weather was spectacular and teams on the north took advantage of it by aggressively fixing the ropes to the summit (and beyond!).

It was a record year for summits with 479 reaching the top from both sides but there was also 11 deaths, the most since 1996.

Continue reading about Everest in 2006

Everest 2007 Coverage

Everest 2007


The season started early - late March - with the arrival of the huge IMG team closely followed by the Xtreme Everest Medical expedition into Nepal. Over on the north it seemed that Hollywood had moved to Tibet for April and May.

Dispatch after dispatch spoke of their "film crew" and some climbers were worried about their bad hair days. But one climber stood out - David Tait. The British climber was on a mission to raise money for his charity by attempting the never before accomplished double traverse. He began posting his thoughts, fears and observation in a rarely seen candid manner.

It was another record year for summits with 632 reaching the top from both sides but there was also 7 deaths.

Continue reading about Everest in 2007


Everest 2008 Climb

Everest 2008


I returned to Everest in 2008, to attempt the South side again as part of The Road Back to Mt. Everest . I had trained hard with four previous high altitude climbs in the prior 8 months. I felt great the majority of the climb but felt it was too dangerous for me to continue and turned back at the Balcony or 27,500' (8300m) which was 1535 ' short of the highest point on earth. This was my highest altitude ever reached.

I have written an extensive document on the experiences during this climb as impacted by the Chinese Olympic torch summit and closure of the north and heavy restrictions on the south side. It is a PDF document named Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics

426 people summited in 2008 with only 1 death.

Continue reading about the Everest 2008 climb

Everest 2009 Coverage

Everest 2009


Overall this was one of the safest seasons in the past few years in spite of some difficult weather that created a long delay in early May. There were over 400 summits and sadly 5 deaths on Everest and one on Lhotse.

Similar to 2008, the Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) changed the rules and gave vague guidance to teams during the critical planning period resulting in almost all of the major north side operators making the switch to Nepal. That fueled speculation of overcrowding, bottlenecks and record summits and record deaths. And in the end it was just speculation.

462 summits and 5 deaths.

Continue reading about Everest in 2009


Everest 2010 Coverage

Everest 2010


By recent standards, Everest 2010 was a safe and successful year. There were about 537 summits (347 from the south) with 3 reported deaths, all on the north, and several injuries and rescues. The total Everest summits broke the 5,000 level since 1953.

This year's story line for climbers and their families was the weather, however it was all Jordan Romero and Apa Sherpa for the rest of the world.

For the first time in several years, the north operated in an almost normal manner. Teams dealt with a few border restrictions early but arrived at base camp and immediately began their acclimatization rotations.

On the South, the ropes were in early and the weather seemed drastically different from the North, at least in April.

Continue reading about Everest in 2010

Everest 2011 Summit

Everest 2011


I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 from the Nepal side in 2011 with International Mountain Guides. This was part of The 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's: Memories are Everything® campaign.

It was very humbling standing on the summit after all my attempts but more gratifying was the reaction to my Alzheimer's awareness and fund raising efforts. Thank you everyone who participated.

I approached this climb quite differently from previous attempts including preparation, to training to guide service and more.

The Himalayan database states there were 537combined summits from both sides 58% summit to climbers at base camp. 375 summited from Nepal and 162 from Tibet. 4 deaths.

Read the live updates from Everest 2011

Everest 2012 Coverage

2012 Climbers on the Lhotse Face - courtesy of Cian O'Brolchain

Perhaps the most dramatic year since 1996. A lack of snow combined with high winds created dangerous rock fall on the Lhotse Face causing many injures primarily to Sherpas before the route was moved to a safer passage to Camp 3.

However, these dangers plus the deaths of three Sherpas early in April from multiple causes, caused the Sherpas from Himex to lose confidence. Russell Brice, arguably the most famous of the Everest commercial operators, cancelled his entire Himalayan spring season (Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse) taking over 100 people off the mountain. It was an unprecedented decision.

The other teams continued fighting difficult weather on both sides of Everest and with only four days of suitable weather for summit pushes endured the famous crowds at the normal bottle necks of the 2nd Step, and the Hilary Step. Totally unrelated to the crowds, weather or rock fall, 6 more climbers died primarily from poor decision making or altitude related illnesses generating sensational headlines around the world and calls for regulation on Everest.

There were 558 summits in the Spring of 2012, 441 on the south and 147 on the north. 10 confirmed deaths.

Continue reading about Everest in 2012

Everest 2013 Coverage

Everest 2013 Coverage


Everest 2013 was a good year for most climbers but a difficult one for the professionals. Overall it could be termed a normal year with little drama with one large exception.

There were 670 summits in the Spring of 2013, 541 on the south and 124 on the north. 8 confirmed deaths.

For many climbers, they accomplished a life long dream, returned safely home to a family who have started to breath again. With an unparalleled lifetime experience, for some their lives were changed forever.

Continue reading about Everest 2013

 

Everest 2014 Coverage

The The Everest 2014 season was full of tragedy with 19 deaths, shameful exploitation and thin coverage of the real story by the general media. In my season summary, I look at what happened, the reasons for effectively closing Everest from Nepal, the roles played by all parties and some ideas on a credible path forward.

The summary is not a sound bite, it is long, complicated and will take time to digest. Just like anything with Everest it will evoke emotions and reactions. My hope is for badly needed changes on Everest. A mountain I value and whose climbers I admire - past, present and future.

There were 124 summits from the North and 4 from the South which were disputed as the climbers took helicopters to and from Cam 2. There were 17 deaths from an avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Ice fall.

Continue reading about Everest 2014

Everest 2015 Coverage
Everest from Pumori

Another tragic season but this time due to an earthquake, not climbing events. 19 people were killed at Everest Base camp then the Chinese closed the North fearing aftershocks. Nepal continued to promote climbing but no team wanted to risk going back through the Icefall.

For the first time since 1974, there were no Spring summits on Everest from any route, any camp by any means.

Continue reading about Everest 2015

Everest 2016 Coverage
Everest from Pumori

Everest 2016 was a success by many measures. Climbers achieved life long dreams and a country got a break. It was a "normal' season with 648 summits in the Spring of 2016, 446 on the south and 202 on the north. 5 confirmed deaths plus one on Lhotse.

However in stark contrast to the previous four years on Everest, 2016 lacked large scale tragedy or extreme drama.

Continue reading about Everest 2016

Everest 2017 Coverage



This is one of the more difficult seasons I have covered to sum up in one word so let me use several: wind, tragedy, misinformation, spin and summits.

Overall it was a good year, a normal year with many summits on both sides plus the average death toll. I think we saw how the pressure to be first with news can backfire with incorrect stories but we also saw the power of dreams.

Similar to 2016, there were no natural disasters or issues with people getting along, other than a few individuals acting very irresponsibly and selfishly.

While weather forecasting proved to be challenging across the entire two month season, it was not an inhibitor to teams reaching the summit.

Finally the fear of overcrowding, dangers of the Khumbu Icefall or China closing Everest forever, proved unfounded.

Bottom line - it was good year on Everest and for both Nepal and China, and for hundreds who quenched a long thirst to stand on the summit of Mt. Everest.

In 2017 there were 648 summits, 237 from Tibet and 411 from Nepal and 11 didn't use supplemental oxygen. There were 6 deaths, 3 didn't use Os and only 1 died on the descent.

Continue reading about Everest 2017

Everest 2018 Coverage


Early in May, there was talk of early summits but then the jet stream moved on top of Everest and stopped all activity for a week. When a large high-pressure system parked on the summit, the door was opened and stayed that way for 11 straight days.

The first summits were on May 14 by the rope fixing team on the Nepal side followed the next day by 70-year-old Chinese double-amputee Xia Boya with his Sherpa guides. Every day thereafter had summits from both the sides.  Overall it was about as good of a season as could be expected on the world's highest peak.

The temperatures were bit warmer than usual and the winds were calmer in spite of the occasional "difficult" summit day. With the long weather window, teams spread out thus reducing the usual crowding we've seen before. In 2012 there were less than five suitable summit days forcing hundreds to attempt the peak on the same day.

2018 was a record year for Everest summits. The previous record year was 2013 with 670 total summits by all routes. The Himalayan Database has updates for 2018. There were 802 summits and only 1 who did not use supplemental oxygen and 68 females. The Nepal side saw a total of 562 summits made up up 266 foreigners (aka members) and 296 High Altitude Workers (aka Sherpas). For the members who got above base camp, 76% went on to summit. On the Tibet (aka Chinese) side there were 110 summits for workers and 130 by foreigners for a total of 240 summits. 66% of the members above base camp summited. There were a total of 5 deaths in spring 2018, 4 on the Nepal side and 1 on the Tibet side. 1 climbing was climbing without supplemental oxygen and was on the south side.

Continue reading about Everest 2018

 

Everest 2019 Coverage

There were approximately 871 summits on Everest in the Spring of 2019 plus 11 deaths. All-time number of people who summited Everest is now 10,155, including multiple summits in one season by one person, and 306 for total deaths. Still, Everest is one of the safest 8000ers.

2019 was all about the weather. The notorious jet stream was "wobbly" in the words of Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions. It colluded with Cyclone Fani to delay the ropes reaching the summit.

On the Nepal side, the ropes finally made the top due to some incredible efforts by a team of Sherpas. Beginning on May 22, hundreds summited early each morning for several days and once again death was in the air.On May 23, a shocking photo of a line of climbers on the Hillary Step went viral showing everything bad about Everest. The root cause of the lines were slow climbers with guides who failed to properly manage their clients.

How 2019 unfolded was predictable. In 2018, Everest hosted a record 802 people on her summit from both sides. The death toll was five, about the same each year for the past 10 or so. They died from what people usually die from on 8000-meter mountains: altitude sickness, exhaustion, health issues, and the occasional fall. All tragic, but all somewhat expected. But in 2019 with 11 deaths, over half were what I term "avoidable."

I've been writing about two major trends that have been rising and reached a crescendo in 2019: inexperienced climbers and unqualified guides. These two factors along with a "wobbly" jet stream and record 381 foreigner permits issued by Nepal conspired to create a deadly combination of independent factors during the peak of a truncated weather window in late May.

Six months after the spring season, the biggest question is what, if anything, will Nepal do about the crowds, the experience of the climbers and the qualifications of the guides. While there are solutions I'm not optimistic anything will change. For more details, please see my complete summary.

Continue reading about Everest 2019

 

Everest 2020 Coverage

Everest from Pumori

Both China and Nepal closed Everest due to the COVID-19 virus in 2020. However, China allowed a national team and a survey team to climb to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the first Northside summit by a Chinese/Tibetan team.

There were 51 summits this spring, all Northside: 8 Tibetans rope fixers, 8 Chinese survey team and 14 Chinese nationals supported by 21 Tibetans. Congrats to all. These were the latest summits in decades due to deep snow. New altitude measurement expected in a few months.

I did a "Virtual" season coverage where I created a fictional team of climbers. All but one summited:) Also, we raised money through eight guide companies around the world on behalf of the Climbing Sherpas who lost significant income by not working this spring.

Continue reading about Virtual Everest 2020

 

Everest 2021 Coverage


The spring 2021season on Everest was perhaps the most complicated in history. With COVID out of control in India and then to Nepal, it didn't take long for it to reach Everest Base Camp, in spite of the governments adamant denials and cover ups. Also participating in this scandal were some guides who feared punishment for spreading "bad news", a tarnished reputation for not taking care, or simple greed to ensure future business - we'll never know.

China closed Tibet to all foreigners but allowed one national team to climb, but they cancelled a few weeks in citing fear of getting COVID from the Nepal side climbers on the summit - laughable.

The Nepal government issued a record 408 permits to foreigners but only an estimated 195 members summited, 47%, compared to 76% in 2019. An estimated 150 people were evacuated from Everest Base Camp with COVID symptoms. An astounding 339 Sherpa summited, continuing the trend of Sherpa dwarfing foreigners for Everest summits. Two members and three Sherpa died this spring, on the low-end of the usual death count on Everest. We need to wait for the Himalayan Database to tally the final numbers.

I expect 2022 to be a record year on everest with price increases across the board. There was little learned from the 2021 season.

Continue reading about Everest 2021

 

 

Everest 2022 Coverage


2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. During May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas.

In 2022 there were 683 summits, including only 12 from Tibet as it was closed but 671 from Nepal and all but 5 used supplemental oxygen. Unlike previous seasons, this spring saw more experienced climbers resulting in fewer deaths, rescues, and an overall low-drama environment. Despite this good news, there were periods of brutal weather and climbing conditions, and yes, there were rescues, close-calls, and, sadly,3 deaths.

This season, we saw the continued trend of a very high member-to-support ratio. A milestone reached with more Sherpas summiting than foreigners in total since Everest climbing began in the 1920s. We'll dig into this later. All in all, it was a year like we saw a decade ago. But, unfortunately, it was not without deaths, three deaths on Everest and three more on the other 8000ers.

In the good news department, for the first time in many years, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism seemed content to stay out of the way and the headlines. But, this spring, significant changes appeared in the world of mountaineering. These changes will disrupt decades of climbing norms on the 8000-meter peaks.

Continue reading about Everest 2022

 

Everest 2023 Coverage



The 2023 Everest spring season ended with some records to take pride in and others to be avoided. If there were one word to summarize the season, it would be chaotic or perhaps deadly. This spring was the deadliest season in history on Everest. It was also brutally cold.

There were around 665 summits on the Nepal side and 12 from Tibet which was still closed to foreigners. There were a record 18 deaths - 5 Sherpas and 12 clients. In my estimation, five were preventable.

Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never developed, thanks in part to colder weather that sent a higher number of climbers home in mid-season, many with a persistent virus. However, the deaths developed, but not because of the record permits or climate change. These are red herrings to abdicate responsibility.

About 667 reached the summit, about 50% of the total permits with support. Once again, more Sherpas, 378, summited than clients, 277, according to the Himalayan Database.

What stole the headlines were the seemingly daily reports of rescues, frostbite, missing climber, and deaths. The root cause of the chaos is still elusive. Some blame the record permit numbers, inexperienced clients, and low-cost operators. However, Nepal government officials cite climate change.

Continue reading about Everest 2023

Everest 2024 Coverage


I suspect 2024 will be another busy year. First, there is the insatiable lure of Everest, and, as is the standard since 2013, droves of inexperienced climbers drawn by "no-experienced required" low-cost operators. However, 2024 will be different, with the north side open to foreigners and the last year before Nepal raises permit pricing by 36%.

I expect 800 total summits from both sides this spring. Look for at least 150 Tibet-side total (members plus hired) summits and well over 650 on the Nepal side. With these numbers, they will still lag behind the pre-pandemic record set in 2019 of 877 total summits, comprising 661 from Nepal and 216 from Tibet. Last year, 2023, saw 655 total summits from Nepal and thirteen on Tibet. Let's break all of this down and what our climbers can expect.


Continue reading about Everest 2024

Northeast Ridge Route Map

Northeast Ridge Route

The north side of Everest is steeped in history with multiple attempts throughout the 1920's and 1930's. The first attempt was by a British team in 1922. They reached 27,300' before turning back and was the first team to use supplemental oxygen. It was also on this expedition that the first deaths were reported when an avalanche killed seven Sherpas.

The 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine is most notable for the mystery of whether they summited or not. Mallory's body was found in 1999 but there no proof that he died going up or coming down.

It was a Chinese team who made the first summit from Tibet on May 25, 1960 by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-zhou who is said to have climbed the Second Step in his sock feet however without a summit photo, some doubt the summit claim. In 1975, a second summit was climbed by the Chinese and the ladder on the Second Step was installed.

Tibet was closed to foreigners from 1950 to 1980 preventing any further attempts until a Japanese team summited in 1980 via the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face. The north side started to attract more climbers in the mid 1990s and today is almost as popular as the South side when the Chinese allow permits. In 2008 and 2009, obtaining a permit was difficult thus preventing many expeditions from attempting any route from Tibet.

Read more details on the Northeast Ridge Route

South Col Route Map

South Col Route

Mt. Everest was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary with a British expedition in 1953. They took the South Col route which is described on this page. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of note, Norgay was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss return in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest. Nepal was closed to foreigners until 1950.

Today, hundreds of climbers from around the world use this route to try to stand on top of the world. It is considered slightly more dangerous than the North Ridge Route due primarily to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. However some considered it slightly easier than the north due to the absence of the ladders and rock climbing on the steep steps of the North Ridge route.

Read more details on the South Col Route

Everest Stats*

Summits - updated January 2024

Early Attempts and Summits

  • The first attempt was in 1921 by a British expedition from the north (Tibet) side
  • The first summit was on May 29, 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa from Nepal. They climbed from the south side on a British expedition led by Colonel John Hunt.
  • The first north side summit was on May 25, 1960 by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese climbers Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-zhou
  • The youngest person to summit was American Jordan Romero, age 13 years 11 months, on May 23, 2010 from the north side.
  • The oldest person to summit was Japanese Miura Yiuchiro, age 80 on May 23, 2013
  • The first climbers to summit Everest without bottled oxygen were Italian Reinhold Messner with Peter Habler in 1978
  • Reinhold Messner is the only person to have truly summited Everest solo and without supplemental oxygen. He did it in 1980 from the Tibet side via the Great Couloir

Male Summits

  • The youngest male to summit was American Jordan Romero, age 13 years 10 months, on May 23, 2010 from the north side.
  • The oldest male to summit was Japanese Miura Yiuchiro, age 80 on May 23, 2013
  • Kami Rita (Topke) Sherpa (Thami) holds the record for most summits (male or female) with 29, the most recent one in May, 2023.
  • Pasang Dawa Sherpa of Pangboche has summited 27 times with the last on May, 2023.
  • Apa Sherpa (Thami Og), Phurba Tashi Sherpa (Khumjung) are next with 21 summits each. Both are now retired.
  • Briton Kenton Cool have the most non-Sherpa summits with 17, the most recent in 2023.

Female Summits

  • The first woman to summit Everest was Junko Tabei of Japan in 1975
  • The oldest woman to summit was Japanese Tamae Watanabe, age 73, in 2012 from the north
  • The youngest woman to summit was Indian Malavath Poorna, 13 years 11 months on May 25, 2014 from the north side
  • 883 women have summited through December 2022
  • Nepali, Lakpa Sherpani, 48, holds the women's summit record with ten (3 South, 7 north)

Summit Statistics - Through January 2024

  • There have been 11,996 summits of Everest through January 2024, on all routes by 6,664 different people.
  • 5,899 members (clients) have summited and 6,097 hired (Sherpas)
  • 883 females have summited.
  • 1,571 people, have summited multiple times
  • The Nepal side is more popular with 7,695 summits compared to 3,646 summits from the Tibet side
  • 224 climbers summited without supplemental oxygen through January 2043, about 1.9%
  • 35 climbers have traversed from one side to the other.
  • 681 climbers have summited from both Nepal and Tibet
  • 155 climbers have summited more than once in a single season, including 78 who summited within seven days of their first summit that season.
  • About 62% of all expeditions put at least one member on the summit
  • Member climbers from the USA have the most country member summits at 906
  • Sherpas have the most summits at 6,097

Death Statistics

  • 327 people have died on Everest from 1922 to January 2024. This is about 2.7% of those who summited or a death rate of 1.11 of those who attempted to make the summit.
  • 199 westerners and 110 Sherpas have died on Everest from 1922 to January 2024.
  • Westerners die at a higher rate, 1.38 compared to hired at 0.87.
  • Of the deaths, 178 died attempting to summit without using supplemental oxygen.
  • 14 women have died with death rate of 0.81 compared to 1.14 for male climbers.
  • Of the 327 deaths, 92 died on the descent from their summit bid or 2.8%
  • The Nepalese side has seen 8,350 summits with 217 deaths through January 2024 or 2.8%, a rate of 1.14. 130, or X% of the deaths not use Os.
  • The Tibet side has seen 3,646 summits with 110 deaths through January 2024 or 3.0%, a rate of 1.11. 48 died not using Os.
  • Climbers from the UK and Japan have the most all-time deaths at 17
  • Most bodies all are still on the mountain but China has removed many bodies from sight.
  • The top causes of death on both sides were from avalanche (77), fall (75), altitude sickness (45) and exposure (26).
  • From 1922 to 1999: 170 people died on Everest with 1,170 summits or 14.5%. But the deaths drastically declined from 2000 to 2023 with 10,826 summits and 157 deaths or 1.4%.
  • However, four years skewed the deaths rates with 17 in 2014, 14 in 2015, 11 in 2019 and the record 18 in 2023.
  • At least 11 of the 2023 deaths were preventable through better logistics, adequate oxygen and better on-mountain support.
  • The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better higher levels of Sherpa support, supplemental oxygen at higher rates, better gear, weather forecasting and more people climbing with commercial operations.

Latest: Spring 2023

  • In 2023 there were 667 summits, including only 12 from Tibet as it was closed
  • 3 did not use supplemental oxygen.
  • A record 18 Everest climbers died
  • 57% of all attempts by members were successful.
  • 61 Females summited.

See more stats at this page

*courtesy of the Himalayan Database and my own research.

Everest Resources

Based on my own experiences, I worked on these skills before attempting Everest:

  1. Gained climbing experience to be as self sufficient as possible. All the climbing techniques and skills should be in your muscle memory and not a conscious thought
  2. Preparing my body to be in “Everest Shape” which is beyond "the best shape of your life"
  3. Building mental toughness to push yourself while being willing to turn back for safety

CLIMBING SKILLS - knots and roped team travel - crampon skills - ice axe skills including self arrest in all types of positions - crevasse rescue techniques

CAMPING SKILLS - extreme cold weather clothing techniques - packing what you need; not what you want

PHYSICAL TRAINING - stamina, cardio, strength, breathing techniques - understanding how your body performs at altitude preferably at 8000m before going to Everest

MENTAL TRAINING - getting along in close quarters with strangers for 2 months, teamwork

These pages are based on my own experiences:

1. Everest Frequently asked questions and 8000 meter mountains Frequently Asked Questions

2. Skills and Experience

3. Training and Fitness

4. Everest Gear

5. Guides

6. South Side Route Overview

7. North Side Route Overview

8. A description of my first Everest South Climb in 2002

9. A full report of my Everest South Summit in 2011


Preparing for a Climb is More Than Training

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If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or to reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2 we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 27 years of high altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the Summit Coach website.