Welcome to Alan's Mountaineering

AlanThanks for visiting my site. Click on the logo above for all the latest information. Much of the site's content are details of expeditions I have taken around the world.

I consider myself a passionate amateur of alpine mountaineering. While I climb rock and ice, I am by no means an expert and in fact never lead. My experience is mostly alpine mountaineering with an emphasis on climbs above 6,000m. I started climbing at age 38 with Mont Blanc being my first high peak. I caught the fever and gained experience while learning new skills in Alaska, on Rainier, the Tetons and my Colorado 14ers. I went on to climb on Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Aconcagua, Denali, Ama Dablam and others.

I took the time to learn the skills I needed to climb safely on snow, rock and ice. Guides and good friends taught me techniques but experience was key to attempting harder and higher mountains and routes. While I have not stood on top of every mountain I have attempted, I have always had a great time and learned a lot about climbing, myself and life.

Each climb has dedicated section with pictures, videos, and short stories that I hope bring you into my experiences. There are climbing resources that list my gear, training ideas and links to guides, web sites and more climbing information. The menu on the top-left of this page is throughout the site so start there or take a look at the mountain summary below. Also compare the climbs from Rainier to Everest on an easy to read table.

On a personal note, I retired from my work in high tech after 29 years in early 2007. I enjoyed different jobs in several US States and European Countries. My work ranged from sales to marketing to product development to running worldwide businesses and almost always in a Management role. My other interests include: photography, animals, business and of course, my family. My personal philosophy of life has always been one of balance. I try to put an equal amount of energy into my work, my family and time for myself.

familyMy family is critical to my life. They provide me objectivity, critique and encouragement. I could not even think about climbing the Big Hills without their support. My parents gave me a great foundation for life. My brother continues to be my best friend. Ashley is the future and Cathy is my rock. I know it sounds corny and I wouldn't have it any other way.

Animals have always been special to me: from my first Guinea Pig, Ralph, to my long time friend, Preston a.k.a. Roy, an excellent Lhasa Apso to my beloved cats Max and Mimi today. I love all kinds. Once my body will not let me climb, I hope to raise the Lhasa and Tibetan Mastiff breeds for others to enjoy. Alan on Ama Dablam

Digital cameras changed my life! There are thousands of images on this site with the majority taken digitally. I am adding more images and videos all the time. Please visit the Best Shots page to see some examples of what is on the site.

There is an editorial section on business based on my experiences. I try to share these experiences through a series of essays in the section. I cover topics about management, careers and business in general.

I have two areas of interest now that I have retired: Alzheimer’s research and the environment. My Father passed away in late 2006 and my Mother is now 81 and suffers Alzheimer’s. This is a devastating disease that we know little about. It impacts over 5 million Americans today and a new case is diagnosed every 72 seconds! The funding for research is very low compared to Cancer and heart disease.

I want to use this site to raise awareness of Alzheimer’s and the impact on individuals and their families plus ways you can get involved before it is too late. To make this as real as I can over the internet, please visit Memories are Everything for my personal experience.

With my retirement, I am spending the next year on a journey to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000 for Alzheimer’s research: The Road Back to Mt. Everest. I have completed four climbs: Denali, Shisha Pangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba . Next is another Everest attempt in April 2008.

The environment is my other priority in retirement. By now almost everyone has heard of climate change or global warming and the dire predictions for our planet. The good news is that it is not too late for each individual to make a difference. It will take billions of daily personal decisions to begin the turn-around. We need to start now. Please don't ignore this crisis. To read more, please visit my "Mountains are for Everyone" page.

This site is not sponsored by any company. These are my personal experiences alone. My goal is to share my experiences and hope to encourage readers to set some lofty goals and have a good time trying to reach them. I thoroughly enjoy interacting with anyone who stumbles upon the site. Please contact me with any questions or comments. Climb On!

Climbs
When & Where
MOUNTAIN
click on the mountain
Pictures & Trip Reports
January, 2008
Mexico
Orizaba
Orizaba
18,880' - 5730m
Orizaba is the 3rd highest mountain in North America after Denali and Logon. This was my last climb on The Road Back to Mt. Everest before Everest. I climbed with my good friends Patrick, Robert, Scott and Dave. It was a nice climb and is a nice introduction to higher altitude climb. Dispatches,
Pictures &
Videos
Sept/Oct, 2007
Tibet
Shisha Pangma
Shisha Pangma

26,335' - 8027m
Shisha Pangma is the 14th highest mountain on Earth and the lowest of the 8000m mountains, this was a climb on The Road Back to Mt. Everest. Weather conspired to stop all but two climbers in 2007. I topped out at 7000m or 23,000' in excellent health and raised some money for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund - so I was pleased. Dispatches, Pictures & Videos,FAQ
June, 2006
Pakistan
Broad Peak
Broad Peak

26,401' - 8047m
This was an expedition to climb Broad Peak and then to "have a good showing" on K2. I reached 21,000' on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there. I improved my dispatches by sending audio, video and written dispatches with pictures real time from all over the mountains. Other than the bug, it was a great trip! Dispatches, Pictures, Videos, FAQ,
K2 Pictures
January, 2008
February, 2005
Argentina
Aconcagua
Aconcagua
22,842' - 6962m
I summited Aconcagua in February 2005. It was my first climb above 20,000' since Everest in 2003. It is one of the "7 Summits" since it is the highest mountain in South America. I returned and summitted again in 2008 as part of my training for The Road Back to Mount Everest. Please enjoy the dispatches sent by sat phone directly from the summit! 2008 Dispatches,
2005 Dispatches
, pictures, videos
FAQ
July, 2004
Washington, US
Rainier
Mt. Rainier
14,410' - 4392m
A nice alpine climb similar to Mont Blanc or a smaller version of Denali. I summited along with eight friends in July 2004. We had absolutely perfect conditions, rare for Rainier, and made the summit in a swift five hours and twenty minutes from Camp Muir. Dispatches, Pictures,
FAQ
July, 2004
Oregon, US
Hood
Mt. Hood
11,237' - 3452m
A straight forward US West Coast volcano complete with some steep slopes to the summit. I summited Hood with two friends a few days prior to climbing Mt. Rainier. After spending the past two years on Everest, it was nice to climb in the U.S. but more importantly to be back in my crampons and on a rope with good friends. Trip Report, Pictures
April/May, 2003
Nepal
Everest
Everest
29,035' -
8950m
I returned to Everest in 2003, to attempt the South side again. While it was incredible to be back only ten months after my 2002 climb, it was a big disappointment with altitude sickness and weather problems. I knew about halfway through I would not summit so I reset my goal to go as high as I could - safely - and reached 27,200' (8250m), the exact same spot as 2002. Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ
April/May, 2002
Nepal
Everest
Everest
29,035' - 8950m
In 2002 I attempted Everest using the Southeast ridge route. This was my most difficult climb thus far due to the length of the trip, logistics and health. I reached 27,200' (8250m), a personal record, before turning back just below the balcony due to a lung infection. It was a fabulous trip that I never anticipated making when I starting climbing seven years earlier. Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ

July, 2001

June 2007

Alaska

Denali
Denali
20,320' - 6,193m
North America's highest mountain, Denali was easier than I expected. It was mostly snow slopes with a few difficult sections above the Basin Camp. We reached Denali pass at 18,200' before extreme weather turned us back. In 2007, I reached 17,000 before turning back with a mystery illness. This was a climb on The Road Back to Mt. Everest. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ
Multiple
Colorado
Most of my rock climbing has been in Colorado. It has proven invaluable to have rock experience on the 8,000 meter peaks. Pictures
October, 2000
Nepal
Ama Dablam, Nepal
Ama Dablam
22,494' - 6,856m
Maybe my most satisfying climb. When I first saw it, I never considered climbing Ama Dablam . Technical climbing with both rock and ice, it was very satisfying to summit this beautiful mountain in Nepal. This summit gave me confidence to attempt Everest. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ
September, 2000
Wyoming
I wanted more experience with technical rock climbing before Ama Dablam. I found the Grand a nice challenge and learned a lot. Pictures
February, 2000, 2004, 2006
Colorado
Technical ice climbing at the Ouray Ice Park is a special time. Man-made frozen waterfalls creates a nice environment to learn or improve ice climbing skills. Pictures
December, 1999
New Zealand
  The Milford Track is called the 'most beautiful walk in the world'. Cathy and I found it just that as we brought in the millennium. Pictures
July, 1999
Alaska
Granite Range, St. Ellias
9,566' - 2,915m
This was a trip for me to learn more about technical climbing on rock and ice. Flew to a remote glacier by Paul Klaus of Ultima Thule. No
September, 1998
Tibet
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
26,907 - 8,201m
My first 8,000m peak. I climbed it from Tibet. A 5 week expedition, Cho Oyu is the world's 6th tallest mountain. I reached 26,600' (8,060m) before turning back. It was a learning experience that I never forgot. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ
July, 1998
June, 1998
July, 1995
France
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
15,771 - 4,807m
Similar to Denali without all the logistical difficulties but Mont Blanc can be deadly. I used it as training for Cho Oyu. It is the highest peak in Europe and France and my first true snow summit in '95. Pictures,FAQ
March, 1998
Switzerland
Monta Rosa (Dufourspitze)
15,203' - 4,633m
The highest peak in Switzerland, used in training for Cho Oyu No
July, 1997
Greenland
  Family vacation with icebergs, midnight sun, dog sleds and more. Pictures
April, 1997
Nepal
Kala PatarKala Patar
18,055' - 5,503m
My first trip to Nepal and the Khumbu. it was three weeks of trekking in Mt. Everest's Khumbu region. I saw Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Everest for the first time on this trip. It was also my first exposure to the special charm of the Sherpa people.
Pictures
August, 1995
France
Tour Ronde
12,456' - 3,796m
A semi-technical mountain near Chamonix, it was my first real experience with technical mixed climbing No
August, 1995
France
Le Buet
11,678' - 3,559m
A small peak near Mont Blanc, it was my first climb in the Alps. No
February, 1995
Argentina

Fitz RoyFitz Roy
A two week trek around Patagonia , I went to the Fitz Roy and Cierro Torri base camps. I still think this has to be the last unspoiled area on Earth. Pictures
March, 1994
New Zealand
  My first big trip. I 'tramped' the Routbourn and Capels tracks and did my first Bungyjump. My favorite country on the Planet. Pictures
Colorado 14'ers FAQs
August 2007
Colorado
Kit Carson Peak
14,165' - 4317m
A climb with character adjacent to Challenger Trip Report, pictures, video
August 2007
Colorado
Challenger Peak
14,081' - 4292m
A spectacular approach via Willow Lake and then a short and steep climb to the ridge Trip Report, pictures, video
July 2007
Colorado
Mt. of the Holy Cross
14,005' - 4269m
An enjoyable climb that is easier than it looks Trip Report, pictures, video
July 2007
Colorado
Mt. Columbia
14,067' - 4289m
An arduous hike when done from any route ... Trip Report, Pictures
May 2007
Colorado
Missouri Mountain
14,067' - 4289m
A highly enjoyable late winter snow climb up the north face. Trip Report, Pictures, Videos
August 2006 Colorado
Mt. Massive
14,421' - 4396m
A rewarding climb using the less popular southeast ridge route. Had a little snow, rain, hot and cold! Trip Report, pictures
August 2006 Colorado
Tabeguache Peak
14,155' - 43m
Adjacent to Shavano, we climbed Tab via the saddle and were rewarded with nice views of Shav. Trip Report, pictures, video
August 2006 Colorado
Mt Shavano
14,226' - 4339m
A nice 14er start starts steep and ends steep with great views of the Arkansas Valley Trip Report, pictures, video
April 2006 Colorado
April 2007
Pikes Peak
14,115' - 4,302m
The normal class 1 Barr Trail route was slightly more difficult in the early spring snows. A long but satisfying climb. In 2007, my partners and I traversed Pikes from west to east. Along, long day with an appreciated night at Barr Camp on the east slopes. Trip Report, Pictures
October 2005 Colorado
Mount Sherman
14,042' - 4280m
Probably the easiest 14er in Colorado but interesting with all the ghost mine towns around

Trip Report, Pictures, Videos

September 2005 Colorado
La Plata Peak
14,336' - 4370m
An interesting 14er with something for every climber

Trip Report, Pictures,Videos

August 2005 Colorado
Crestone Peak
14,294' - 4357m
One of the most difficult 14ers Trip Report,
Pictures,
Videos
August 2005 Colorado
Huron Peak
14,012' - 4271m
A short and easy walk-up with some surprises on the last 500 feet Trip Report, Pictures,Videos
July 2005
Colorado
Maroon Bells Traverse
S: 14,146' - 4286 m
N: 14,014' - 4246 m
One of Colorado's four classic fourteener traverses between the Maroon Bells, this was long and sometimes difficult requiring rock climbing experience. A wonderfully satisfying climb! Trip Report, Pictures, Videos
June 2005
Colorado
Mount Princeton
14,197' - 4,327 m
A very easy 14'er with great views of 30 14'ers plus the Arkansas Valley Trip Report, pictures, video
June 2005, July 2007 Colorado
Mount Harvard
14,420' - 4,395 m
An enjoyable climb through a nice remote basin. A nice ridge connects to Mount Columbia. Climbed the traverse to Mt. Columbia on July 2007. Very long day. Trip Report, pictures,video
May 2005
Colorado
Mt. Oxford
14,160' - 4316m
A straightforward 14'er with great views! Trip Report, pictures, video
May 2005
Colorado

Mt. Belford

14,205' - 4330m
One of the easiest 14'ers but steep with 4560' gain in just 4 miles Trip Report, pictures, video
June 2004
Colorado
North Massive
14,340' - 4342m
The highest series of 14'er summits in the US Trip Report, pictures, video
June 2004
Colorado
Mt. Evans
14,260' - 4321m
An easy 14'er but the Chicago Lakes route is challenging. Trip Report, pictures, video
May 2004
Colorado
Mt. Bierstadt
14,065' - 4262m
One of the easiest 14'ers Trip Report, pictures, video
May 2004, July 2007
Colorado
Quandary Peak
14,270' - 4324m
An easy 14'er but snow covered in early May Trip Report, pictures
June, 2003
Colorado
Torreys Peak
14,272' - 4,250m
Great summit - small and sharp like it should be! Adjacent peak to Grays. Trip Report, Pictures
June, 2003
Colorado
Grays Peak
14,279' - 4,352
Simple trekking peak Trip Report, Pictures
September, 1994 Colorado
Mt Bross
14,177'' - 4,321m
A simple Colorado 14'er adjacent to Mt. Democrat Trip Report, Pictures
September, 1994 Colorado
Mt. Democrat
14,152' - 4,313m
Another Colorado 14'er. It is adjacent to Mt. Lincoln Trip Report, Pictures
September, 1994 Colorado
Mt. Lincoln
14,291' - 4,355m
A trekking peak in the Rockies. Trip Report, Pictures
September, 1994 Colorado
Mt. Elbert
14,440' - 4,401m
The highest peak in Colorado yet not difficult at all, just a long day. Trip Report, Pictures
Colorado

Most recently on August 2007 via the Loft Route
Longs Peak
Longs Peak
14,259' - 4,346m
My local 14eener, Longs Peak serves as a great training climb throughout the year. There are many routes ranging from moderate to extremely technical. It almost killed me in 1992 but is a nice day climb today!

I have climbed on Longs over 50 times, summited 15 via the Cable, Loft and Keyhole routes.
Trip Report, Pictures, Video, FAQ