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Jun 222017
Everest 2017: Loose Ends

Now that the last summits of Everest 2017 are about a month old, there are a few storylines that continue to get press. In the grand scheme, nothing really changes with any of this “news”. Big Summit Numbers from Nepal Nepal Tourism reported for spring 2017 there were 445 summits from the south (Nepal) side consisting of 190 foreigners, 32 fee-paying Nepalis, 233 Sherpas. They issued 375 foreign permits thus a 50% foreigner success rate, much lower than recent history in the 70+% range – this was perhaps due to flu and an elongated summit window of a few days continue reading

Apr 282017
Everest 2017: The 'other' Himalayan Mountains Update

While many people focus on Everest, which is proceeding with a no-drama, normal season, there is significant activity on many of the other 8000 meter mountains across the Himalaya. However, like Everest, high winds is really the headline thus far this season. Let’s do a quick run down of the activity. Keep in mind that many of the climbs are private and do not provide much information during the climb so information is sketchy at best. Cho Oyu The plans for a new Cho Oyu route by Louis Rousseau, Adam Bielecki, Rick Allen and Felix Berg was stopped by Chinese continue reading

Mar 272017
Everest 2017: The Climb to the Summit Not Discussed

I occasionally read the Southeast Ridge route to the summit of Everest is called the “yellow brick road” or “paved” or something else suggesting that it is sidewalk-esq, easy, with no challenge and attainable by all. I suspect those who say, write and repeat those descriptions have never been close to Everest. And if they have summited, perhaps their memory was affected by the lack of oxygen 🙂 We all know about the Khumbu Icefall (I recently did a post on the dangers) on the south side and the 2nd Step on the north but there is one section on the south that is continue reading

Mar 092017
Bill Burke: A Study in Tenacity - Over

Update: March 21, 2107 Bill and team experienced deep snow and brutal cold, similar to what Alex Txikon experienced on Everest a couple of weeks earlier.  He has an excellent write upon his blog  of the decision and his helicopter “mountain tour” near the summit of his mountain on his way out. In Bill’s words: I finally reached Dawa with my inReach Explorer satellite device and received the weather report. Mike Fagin’s report applied to conditions at 18,000 feet, which was the elevation of our Base Camp. He reported a deterioration of the weather over the next 10-days as the jet continue reading

Mar 082017
Alex Txikon's Everest Winter Summit - OVER

Alex Txikon said going on would have been “suicide.”  With a team of five Sherpas he reached Camp 2 on 7th March 2017 from the Nepal side of Everest. They felt the extreme cold and high winds with the same in the forecast for many days and called it quits. Txikon says he will return. Txikon deserves a lot of credit for not giving up easily. He reached the South Col almost a month ago but was stopped by high winds – so much so that they couldn’t even pitch their tent. One of the Sherpas was hit by rockfall on the descent to continue reading

Alex Txikon’s on Final Everest winter Summit Push

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Mar 072017
Alex Txikon's on Final Everest winter Summit Push

Alex Txikon’s team is back on Everest for what will be their last push to summit Everest in winter. They need to top out by March 20 to claim that prize. LATEST: Their GPS tracker still shows them at Camp 2 as of this post midnight, Wednesday March 7 Everest time. They should be on their way to the summit, somewhere near the Balcony, to miss the high winds. Let’s hope the tracker is not working or turned off. Recovering from First Attempt After a difficult first attempt, they retreated to Kathmandu, somewhat under duress (see this recap of that effort) for 8 days.  They ate, continue reading

Jan 222017
Everest Winter Attempt Reaches Camp 3 - Member Evacuated

Alex Txikon’s team reached Camp 3 at 6917m on the Lhotse Face but team member 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio, was evacuated by Helicopter with lung inflammation. Txikon posted on Facebook: From the C3 of Everest I send all my strength to Carlos Rubio Infante Muñiz great companion and friend who has had to be evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu because of a lung inflammatory process. He is stable and I know he is fine, but from here we miss him a lot, since he has worked like a champion and I am really proud of him. Tomorrow we continue reading

Everest winter Attempt Reaches Camp 1

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Jan 142017
Everest winter Attempt Reaches Camp 1

Alex Txikon’s team and Sherpas have established the route through the Khumbu Icefall and have tagged Camp 1 at the entrance to the Western Cwm. He reports they are moving well and climbing fast. Their Camp 1 is at 6040 meters, about 100 meters higher the normal location but it varies each season depending on avalanche danger off the West Shoulder of Everest and Nuptse to the south. He noted that the temperature at -30C/-22F. Txikon posted on his blog: After four stages of work equipping The Khumbu icefall yesterday that the wind gave us a window of good conditions, we ascended and spent the night continue reading

Jan 092017
Introducing Summit Coach - Consulting for Aspiring Climbers

If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2, Summit Coach can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of services based on Alan Arnette’s 20+ years of high altitude mountaineering experience and 30 years as a business executive. Summit Coach is fully independent and does not sell gear or trips. It is not a guide service and receives no compensation from any outside organization. All advice is continue reading

Jan 062017
Everest Winter Attempt Update

Alex Txikon is now at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side preparing to begin his acclimatization rotations on Everest. He is being supported by Seven Summits Treks and five Sherpas who will fix the route thru the Khumbu Icefall. They had their Puja today, January 6, 2016. Txikon is 35 years old and is joined by 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio. Also on the team are Aitor Barez, the expedition movie director and Pablo Magister who will serve as cameramen. Txikon along with Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara knocked off Nanga Parbat last winter leaving on K2 as the last 8000er continue reading