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Dec 062017
Nepal to Ban Everest Climbers with Disabilities

I was hoping we could go into the Everest 2018 season without Nepal’s Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announcing another plan to “make Everest safer” thru Byzantine rules that are not grounded in merit or even common sense. But alas they have once again met my low expectations. This time they are repeating a previous proposal with a full on ban of “… people with complete blindness and double amputation, as well as those proven medically unfit for climbing, will be restricted from attempting to scale mountains.” according to the The Himalayan newspaper. Before we go on, this is a continue reading

Dec 032017
K2 Winter 2017: Final Preparations

After multiple attempts to summit K2 in winter, a Polish team is finalizing their plans to attempt the last 8000er not summited in winter. They will arrive in Pakistan after Christmas this year, 2017. K2 is the world’s 2th highest mountain at 28,251’/8611m. It is located in northwest Pakistan about 30 miles from the border with India. K2 is called the Mountaineer Mountain and the Savage Mountain for its deadly and difficult reputation. Additional Member The expedition has been in the planning stages for years but perhaps one of the biggest last minute changes is that elite Kazakstan alpinist Denis Urubko continue reading

Nov 282017
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa: A Story of Courage Needs Your Help

She had a dream – Pasang Lhamu Sherpa wanted to be the first Nepali woman to summit Everest and in 1993 she did it but paid the ultimate price. The documentary The Glass Ceiling tells her story but needs funding to bring it to market. Let me say on a personal note, that the more I dug into this story, the more I join the chorus that it must be told. If you read nothing else, watch the trailer … then I bet you will come back and read the rest of this post and make a donation – I have. continue reading

Nov 272017
Death on Mexico's Orizaba

Local officials report one death and multiple rescues on the 18,619’/5675m Mexican volcano, Pico de Orizaba, last week. The conditions had been reported as unusually icy on the moderate slopes leading to the summit. The deceased has been identified as American Jason Keith Wolfe, 41, of Denver Colorado. source Fell while Skiing Search and Rescue from Socorro Alpino unit Tlachichuca group took 19 hours to recover the body and transport to the Forensic Medical Service Serdan City. SAR posted on their site: According to reports guides and rescue teams on the site, the accident occurred on the northwestern side of the mountain. An American continue reading

Nov 262017
Helping Nepal: Himalayan Stove Project

Like so many of my readers, George Basch made a trip to Nepal that changed his life forever. Today he is the “Chief Cook” of the non-profit Himalayan Stove Project. They provide clean cook stoves to thousands throughout Nepal and are truly changing lives. You can help by funding a stove for only $150 that will reduce pollution and improve lives for generations to come. If you make a donation before November 28, 2017, it will be doubled. Through the Fall of 2017 they have delivered almost 4,000 stoves have impacted the lives of more than 40,000 people. George Basch I’ve gotten to continue reading

Nov 262017
Himalayan Autumn Wrap-up

It was a wild ride for those climbing in the Himalayan this Autumn with valiant efforts on 8000ers, a few new routes and a tragedy on Ama Dablam. Never say never when claiming there are no more climbs but with winter approaching the attention will shift to K2 and perhaps an attempt on Everest and Nanga Parbat. Lots of attempts on the 8000ers in October but no summits. Lhotse – Over South Korean, Sung-Taek Hong and Spanish climber Jorge Egocheaga ended their attempt Lhotse’s South Face. High winds stopped them on their summit attempt. They had tried a few weeks earlier and continue reading

Nov 102017
Himalayan Autumn Updates

Autumn continues to be exciting in the climbing world with the 2017 Piolet d’Or awards, new routes on very remote and technical peaks plus valiant efforts on 8000er. First up are the 8000ers, and its not good news on any of them. Lhotse – Waiting but not hopeful South Korean, Sung-Taek Hong and Spanish climber Jorge Egocheaga are attempting Lhotse’s South Face. They posted an update saying they had established Camp 3 (7,800m) on Oct 17th  and Camp 4 (8,250m) on Oct 18th and then made a summit attempt at the end of October. They established a Camp 4  at 8250 meters (27,066 ft)  before turning back continue reading

Nov 022017
Autumn Climbing: Losing Legends, Summits in Nepal, Bribes on Carstensz

Climbing continues around the word and especially in Nepal but before we get to the climbs, I want to remember two climbers we lost recently. Fred Beckey: “The Bob Dylan of Mountain Climbing: Fred was the definition of a dirt bagger – mostly living out of his car, he never married or had children – climbing was his life. He passed away in Seattle at age 94 on October 30. He was shunned for an Everest climb early in his career so he turned to first ascents through the US Pacific Northwest and into Canada, and boy did he. He climbed, continue reading

Oct 302017
Gifts for the 2017 Climber in your Life

Looking for that perfect gift for your climber (or yourself) ? Hopefully this post will give you some ideas based on my own personal experience. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! I always try to buy local to keep the sales tax in my city and support my local retails but there are good deals online at: Sierra Trading Post – lowest prices on first, seconds and closeouts Steep and Cheap – Incredible deals that last only a few minutes REI Outlet – deals on already great prices Backcountry – full line on-line retailer with continue reading

Oct 232017
Autumn Climbing: Himalayan Roundup: Annapurna, Lhotse Nuptse and more

October is the time of year when only a few 8000ers are climbed, too early for Antartica or Aconcagua but spot on for many peaks in Nepal. With that preamble, lets start with the 8000ers currently under siege. Lhotse – Camp 4 South Korean, Sung-Taek Hong, 51, along with Spanish climber Jorge Egocheaga, 49, are attempting Lhotse’s South Face. The only time this route has been climbed was in October 1990 by Russian climbers Serguey Bershov and Vladimir Karataev according to the Himalayan Database. Sung attempted it in 2013, 2014 and 2015. They are seeing the same they have seen for continue reading