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Climbing News: Deaths on Broad Peak, Naga Parbat

 6 Responses »
Mar 082013
 
Climbing News: Deaths on Broad Peak, Naga Parbat

The winter of 2013 has come with strong summits, valiant efforts and unfortunate deaths. Climbing in the winter is dangerous at best and deadly in many cases. A coveted summit is one of the fourteen 8,000m mountains. As of this winter, only K2 and Nanga Parbat remain to be summited in the winter in spite of repeated efforts. Broad Peak Broad Peak sitting in the shadow of K2 is 26,414 feet (8051 meters) is in Pakistan and has a deceptive reputation as one of the “easier” 8000m mountains. It is not, especially in the winter. The Polish team of Maciej continue reading


Climbing News: Alone on Denali, Biking the South Pole, Winter Naga Parbat – updated

 4 Responses »
Dec 272012
 
Climbing News: Alone on Denali, Biking the South Pole, Winter Naga Parbat - updated

While the rest of us are enjoying the holidays with family, two adventures are pushing the limits. This post is a quick look at what is happening in the mountaineering world as we close out 2012. It was has been quite the year with a dangerous Everest season followed by deadly avalanches on Manaslu, Mont Blanc and Annapurna. It seems the world’s weather has turned ugly on the high mountains, and is not letting up. But that is not stopping some true adventurers. Alone in the Winter on Denali For the third time, Lonnie Dupre is attempting a solo ascent continue reading


The BIG Mountain Bargains for Your Climber

 6 Responses »
Dec 182012
 
The BIG Mountain Bargains for Your Climber

Climbers are so hard to please! If you are still searching for that perfect gift for the climber in your life how about a climbing expedition? OK, if you are still reading, this is a fast, somewhat serious look at the best ‘value for altitude’ your money can buy. By the way, I will be publishing my annual look at the cost to climb Everest in a few weeks. As always, your climber must have the proper skills, experience and leadership before attempting any of these climbs. I selected these because: reasonable guided price and/or permit fee difficulty ranges from continue reading


Gifts for the 2012 Climber in your Life

 5 Responses »
Nov 212012
 
Gifts for the 2012 Climber in your Life

Looking for that perfect gift for your climber (or yourself) ? Hopefully this post will give you some ideas. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! These are some ideas based on my own personal experiences. If you have time and want the absolute lowest price, use the website Spadout. Do a search for your product and register to be notified for a lower price or the price you want to pay and be notified by email if one of their partners meets your needs. No tricks, just a great service! I have no connection continue reading


Japanese Climber Evac’d off Everest after Abandoned West Ridge Attempt

 4 Responses »
Oct 212012
 
Japanese Climber Evac'd off Everest after Abandoned West Ridge Attempt

Nobukazu Kuriki who was climbing Everest’s West Ridge alone, no supplemental O’s, was evacuated from Camp 2 in the Western Cwm to a Kathmandu hospital with severe frostbite today. He experienced high winds, and extreme cold on his summit attempt while on the Ridge. Frostbite is one of the risk of climbing without supplemental oxygen at extreme altitude in harsh conditions. A Rare Attempt The 30 year-old Japanese was attempting something almost unheard of in modern times doing a solo climb, without supplemental oxygen of the West Ridge on Everest in the Fall. Any of those characteristics would be impressive; continue reading


Climbing News: Everest Fall Push, Manaslu Summits and Deaths and more

 8 Responses »
Oct 102012
 
Climbing News: Everest Fall Push, Manaslu Summits and Deaths and more

The fall 2012 climbing season is winding down after a difficult season. Between high winds, heavy snow and avalanches; there were only a few summits on the world’s largest peaks and, sadly, many deaths. There is action on Everest again this Fall so the season is not quite over.  Here goes the round up: Everest Fall 2012 Only a few teams attempt Everest in the fall due to shortening, cold days and the quickly approaching winter snows. But we have two teams up there right now, both on the south side. 30 year-old Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki is doing something almost continue reading


Avalanche Kills 11 on Nepal’s Manaslu – Update 5: Summary

 23 Responses »
Sep 232012
 
Avalanche Kills 11 on Nepal's Manaslu - Update 5: Summary

A deadly avalanche occurred on Manaslu in Nepal at 4:30AM on Sunday, September 23 killing at least a reported 9 climbers with another 6 missing. Another 10 climbers were impacted but escaped. It occurred at the 7000 meter (22,960′) level with the slide hitting Camp 3. News reports say that most of the victims were Nepal, Spanish, Italian, German and several French. One Canadian climbers was in the missing. There were about 25 climbers in the area at the time of the avalanche all preparing for their summit push. Reports from teams on the mountains say that the avalanche blast continue reading


Climbing News: K2, Gasherbrum, New Gear

 5 Responses »
Aug 132012
 
Climbing News: K2, Gasherbrum, New Gear

While I was gone on Rainier, lots happened around the climbing world. It seemed that July 31, 2012 was magic in the Karakorum with record summits on K2 plus the only summits on Broad Peak across the gully the same day. Those who waited for another window, never got higher than mid mountain. Elsewhere there was more tragedy in a very, very difficult 2012 for mountaineering. Finally, some gear news and random tidbits. K2 Summit Rush It was a good year for K2 climbers with a single day record of 28 climbers topping out on July 31 via the Abruzzi continue reading


Climbing News: Mont Maudit (Blanc) Tragedy, Difficult Denali, Karakorum Drama

 4 Responses »
Jul 152012
 
Climbing News: Mont Maudit (Blanc) Tragedy, Difficult Denali, Karakorum Drama

Just back from my own climb of Peru’s Alpamayo, I wanted to post a  quick recap of recent news for the climbing world with success, dramas and death. Let’s start with some good news. Denali Success British climbers Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman showed Denali is not a simple walk up by making a rare repeat of the Slovak Direct route in an incredible 84 hours,  First climbed in 1984 by Slovakians Blajez Adam, Tono Krizo and Franticek Korl; they took 11 days and the route has only been repeated five other times. The record of 60 hours set by continue reading


Climbing News: Denali and Hood Deaths, Karakorum Season Starts

 6 Responses »
Jun 182012
 
Climbing News: Denali and Hood Deaths, Karakorum Season Starts

It has been a difficult few days in the mountains with several deaths that are hard to understand. On the heels of 10 Everest deaths this season, the media has taken more than a casual interest in these climbing deaths. Interestingly however, they have not attracted the same frenzied calls for regulations, limits or boycotts that the deaths on Everest encouraged. Four Killed on Denali The largest event was reported on Mt. McKinley aka Denali where on June 14, 2012 four Japanese climbers were caught in an avalanche in an area not known for deadly events. They were descending a continue reading


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