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Jul 152019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  More Broad Peak Summits, K2 Climbers enroute to Summit

We have more summits on Broad Peak and the Gasherbrum as the excellent weather continues. Many of the K2 teams have left Base Camp hoping to summit starting mid week. Big Picture The summit for K2 should begin early Wednesday, July 17, 2019, on both routes, the Česen and Abruzzi. Ropes are set to the respective Camp 4 on both routes I expect to see 50 to 75 summits on Wednesday, then 30-50 on Thursday and 10-20 on Friday. After a break, the following week should see another 20-30 summits bringing the season total on K2 to over 100 – a continue reading

Jul 132019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Summits in the Karakorum, K2 Next

The weather on K2 continues to behave and looks good well into next week. This is quite unusual and the teams are embracing it fully. Meanwhile there are multiple summits on the Gasherbrum and Broad Peak. Thus far it’s a good year in the Karakorum. Big Picture The summit schedules for K2 are coming into focus with Wednesday, July 17, 2019 being the key date with climbers leaving their high camps on Tuesday around 10 pm. Teams on both routes, the Česen and Abruzzi are leaving base camp this weekend. Ropes are set to the respective Camp 4 on both continue reading

Jul 112019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Climbers on the Move in Good Weather

The weather on K2 is revealing a kind side for a change. Low winds, little snow and acceptable temperatures have dominated the conditions for the past 10 days. How long this will last is anyone’s guess but for now, no one is complaining. Big Picture There is talk about a lot of snow above Camp 4 and it’s giving the climbers serious pause. Eduard Ulysses gave his usual solid update noting the conditions: On Abruzzi route, the ropes are fixed up to Camp 4, on Cesen route the ropes end about 500m below Camp 4 it seems. Here it will continue reading

Jul 082019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  K2 Becomes More Organized

Good weather is allowing teams to make excellent progress on their acclimatization rotations across the Karakorum. Another teams moves from the Abruzzi to the Česen on K2. Big Picture Teams have been in the Karakorum for a couple of weeks now. The season began with a lot of snow during the trek and difficult conditions were reported at K2 Base Camp. But the weather has improved considerably in recent days. This break has enable climbers all over to make excellent progress with their acclimatization schedules and to achieve summits on Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak. I’m getting reports continue reading

Jul 062019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Progress With Good Weather

Teams across the Karakorum are making summits and progress during an elongated period of good weather. But with the record climbers on K2, some teams are making serious decisions. And a few special projects are seeing success. K2 – Two Routes Open As I mentioned in the last post, Mingma Sherpa of Imagine Nepal has switched from the standard Abruzzi to the Česen route due to crowds. Now it appears that Madison Mountaineering has switched as well. This takes over 50 climbers off the standard route but still leaves about 100 on the Abruzzi. Garrett Madison posted: Our sherpas were to fix to continue reading

Jul 032019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Will K2 be like Everest this Year?

As the ropes fixers make progress and teams prepare for their first rotations, there is trouble in the air. Similar to the early signals this past spring on many 8000ers with 10 deaths, the additional 11 deaths on Everest made the warning signs clear. And now we see the same signals on K2: record permits issued, and inexperienced climbers. The wildcard may be how the weather develops and how many days will be suitable for summit bids. In any event, queuing at House Chimney, the Bottleneck and the Traverse occur when there are less than 30 people on the Hill. continue reading

Jul 022019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Teams On the Move, Nanga Summit

With a few days of decent weather, teams made progress across the Karakorum. But the forecast calls for some high winds in the days ahead so it may become quiet later this week. The first Karakorum summit of this summer season was accomplished on Nanga Parbat. K2 – Ropes to C2 Dawa Sherpa of Seven Summits Treks, the largest team in the Karakorum, as usual, said the rope team reached C2: Just got an internet connection, have a look at SST – K2 expedition basecamp setup. All team members and Sherpas are fine, Rope fixing Team already opened route up continue reading

Jun 282019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Weather Allows Progress

After the slow start for teams to even reach their base camps, the weather relented late this week and progress was made on K2, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak K2 Mike Horn made progress on K2: Back in basecamp after a successful climb to camp 1. Could not go higher due to snow conditions. Today is the first clear day so we will wait for the snow to settle and head back up this evening. It takes about 2.5 hours to get from basecamp to advanced basecamp through the icefall. It is a short trip but dangerous due to the continue reading

Jun 262019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - Too Few Porters, Too Much Snow

The 2019 Karakorum season seems to be getting off on the wrong boot. For over week now we keep hearing about poor weather on K2, now it’s the same story on Broad Peak. Kobler and Parter reports in with their 17 person team: At the moment the weather is not too favourable to go to the mountain which has given us time to make our base camp almost as chique as the cafe in Islamabad! Once again Mike Horn chimes in from K2: Bad weather still hampering our progress but we went for a hike up K2 to keep the continue reading

Jun 242019
 
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - Snow Stalling K2 Progress

Only a few teams have arrived at K2 Base Camp thus far while many others are making their way closer by trekking on the Baltoro Glacier. Activity is also picking up on the other 8000ers in Pakistan. Finally, more deaths are being reported on the mountains this summer. Snow at K2 BC Swiss climber, Mike Horn, is doing a nice job of keeping everyone updated on his teams progress through his expensive social media. He arrived at BC last week and wanted to get to Camp 2 but snow conditions have delayed their efforts: New week, new goals! Weather not continue reading