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Jan 112019
2018/19 Winter Climbs: Trekking

Not a lot of new information from any of the teams. The K2 teams are still on the trek and others are still early in their climbs. K2: Trekking to Base Camp K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Trekking the Baltoro The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are trekking towards K2 Base Camp. They are currently at the Urdukas Camp. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – Trekking the Baltoro The other K2 team, lead by Alex Txikon, are also trekking the Baltoro Glacier towards K2 Base Camp and at continue reading

Jan 032019
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers Enroute, Antarctic Update, 28 Everest Summits?

The winter 8000-meter teams are all arriving or are already acclimating towards their objectives. Remember this will be a long effort, especially on K2, with summits near the end of January at the earliest. K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Arrival Pakistan  The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are in Islamabad and are preparing to fly to Skardu for the 4Runner drive to the end of the road in Askole where they will being the trek to K2 Base Camp Vassiliy Pivtsov is the expedition leader and Basil Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) is the head of the expedition and the continue reading

Dec 292018
2018/19 Winter K2: Climbers Enroute, Controversy in Antarctic, Colorado Perfect

The K2 teams are on their way to Pakistan for their winter attempts but not without problems already. K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team First up is an international group, made up of climbers from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan. They are already having financial issues according to the website Russian Climb and reduced the team size from 11 to 7: Despite comprehensive efforts, the guys could not find money for all originally claimed eleven members. Therefore, the team will go to Karakorum in a reduced composition. There will be seven of them.. Vassiliy Pivtsov is still the expedition leader and Basil Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) continue reading

Dec 172018
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2019 Edition

This is my sixth year to blog “How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?” and I firmly believe we are about to see the biggest changes in Everest, inc. that we have seen since Nepal went from one team permit per year to anything goes back in the early 1990s. The key drivers for changes include: China’s concern about reputation but more importantly to making as much money as possible with their side of Mt. Everest. Then Nepal’s Merry-go-Round of Ministers and lack of consistency in providing an understandable and predictable regulatory environment. Then there is the domination continue reading

Dec 052018
China Clamps Down on Everest Climbs

Over the past few years, I’ve been predicting two things will change dramatically about climbing Everest: 1) It will get more expensive and 2) China will make it more difficult to climb from their side. A recent announcement by Chinese Mountaineering Association and Mountaineering Association of Tibet aka CTMA has shown both to be true. China has informed operators that effective January 1, 2019, several new rules will be put in place: “expedition formation, audit, reception, management, safety and environmental protection” for mountain expeditions on Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and, of course, Everest. If implemented and enforced, this is a big continue reading

Dec 022018
2018/19 Winter K2, Nanga Parbat but No Everest

As the winter of 2018/19 begins, we are seeing another set of attempts on the world’s second highest peak K2 however the winter Everest commercial expedition has been cancelled.  K2 remains the only 8,000-meter mountain not summited in winter and Everest has only a few. Also there will be a winter attempt by a new route on Nanga Parbat. Before I get to who is climbing, one of the more interesting aspects of claiming a winter summit is exactly when is winter? Big Picture – When does Winter End? If you remember the K2 attempt last winter, there was a lot continue reading

Nov 202018
Gifts for the 2018 Climber in your Life

Looking for that perfect gift for your climber (or yourself) ? Hopefully this update for Holiday 2018 season’s annual post will give you some ideas based on my own personal experience. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! I always try to buy local to keep the sales tax in my city and support my local retails but there are good deals online at: Sierra Trading Post – lowest prices on first, seconds and closeouts Steep and Cheap – Incredible deals that last only a few minutes REI Outlet – deals on already great prices Backcountry continue reading

Sep 302018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits, Missing Climber, Skiing Lhotse

This last week has been the pinnacle for the 2018 autumn climbing season across the Himalayas in Tibet and Nepal. Sadly a Czech climber is missing after summiting Manaslu and the long-coveted ski descent of the Lhotse Couloir is apparently completed but not confirmed. Big Picture – Weekend Update This week will wrap up the volume teams leaving a few small, mostly independent climbers still attempting their peak. One point about this season I’ve noticed is that there are many, many, many small teams lead by Sherpas out of Nepal. The old-guard of western guides are here and there but continue reading

Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits All Over

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Sep 272018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits All Over

One of the best moments in climbing on the Himalayan is when you reach the summit of an 8000-meter, or lesser peak only hear a Sherpa screaming into his radio “Summmmmiiiitttt” with the energy of a World Cup Football announcer. You almost can’t help but smile. This scene is being repeated on Manaslu and Cho Oyu this week with summits being reported on both 8000ers. Cho Oyu – Summits Climbing the Seven Summits team reported they summited: “We are thrilled to announce the entire CTSS team is currently standing on the summit of Cho Oyu in perfect weather.” Tendi Sherpa lead continue reading

Sep 242018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summit Pushes Begin

Pretty much on schedule, multiple teams will be starting their summit push this week, if they haven’t already. The weather continues to be decent but fresh snow on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna will require a couple days to settle. Cho Oyu Climbing the Seven Summits team reported they left for the summit today, Monday Sept 24 2018: “Their plan is to head up to Camp 1 today and on to Camp 2 tomorrow. We are looking at an excellent weather window coming our way with low winds and dry conditions. We will keep watching the forecast like hawks as they make their way continue reading

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