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Sep 202018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Sherpas Dies on Dhaulagiri

Team after team are wrapping up their acclimatization rotations so look for summit pushed to begin as early as this weekend or early next week. The weather is looking poor for next couple of days but then returning to nice autumn conditions, albeit with rain around Manaslu and snow on Dhaulagiri – which seems to be the norm for those peaks. Sherpa Death on Dhaulagiri As happens regularly when climbing the world’s largest peaks, a death has occurred. This time he was Dawa Geljen Sherpa of Makalu rural municipality – 2, Sankhuwasabha on Dhaulagiri. Apparently he was part of a continue reading

Sep 162018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Moving Along

The Autumn Himalayan climbing season continues to progress without a lot of drama or fanfare. The supply situation on Manaslu seems to have been corrected and overall, the weather is cooperating this September. There are no teams on Everest this autumn. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. Adventure Consultants has a nice team there and reports progress to Camp 1, similar to many of the other groups. They plan to spend 2 nights at C1 then 2 nights at top continue reading

Sep 112018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Has Poor Start on Manalsu

With the finger pointing underway, climbers are caught in the middle between the largest operator, Seven Summits Treks and the Nepal Government. Confusion around helicopters are preventing supplies from being flown into Manaslu base camp. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. A team from Climbing the Seven Summits lead by Tendi Sherpa says they have reached C1. They report good weather but they are low on the peak with a long way to go. Other teams report in at ABC continue reading

Sep 092018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Begins

If it is early September, it must mean a migration to the big mountains of Tibet and Nepal. After being closed to climbing last year, Tibet is open and the usual suspects will be busy. Reports have it that more than 350 foreign climbers supported by over 300 Sherpas will be on the five Nepal and Tibet 8000-meter peaks commonly climbed in Autumn:  Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse, Shishapangma and Cho Oyu. Also look for teams on Ama Dablam and Cholastse. Usually the autumn climbing season is quiet compared to Everest or K2. The climbs are never “easy” as advertised by many company’s continue reading

Aug 262018
Update: 2018 Oxygen Failure on Everest - Regulator Recall

Followers of the Everest 2018 spring climbing season will recall that a few teams experienced a failure of their supplemental oxygen systems provided by the UK company, Summit Oxygen (SO). While alarming, to maintain a sense of perspective, it was 25 out of 500 to 1,000 that regulators failed, not a massive failure as some described. Neil Greenwood, the founder and Managing Director of SO, has sent me an update on what caused the problems the solution. He is recalling several batches of faulty regulators. Regulator Failures at 8,000-meters. First reported by Lucas Furtenbach’s north side Everest team, multiple teams continue reading

Aug 252018
My Summit Video from the 2014 K2 Climb

It took a while but I finally got around to editing all my K2 video clips from our 2014 summit climb into one short (33 minute) video. As regular readers remember, all my climbs are to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s Disease. I became the oldest American at age 58 and the 18th American to summit K2. We summited on my birthday July 27, 2014. The video starts with our arrival in Islamabad, then the journey via planes, and FJ Cruiser’s to the “end of the road” at Askole where the 80-mile trek to K2 Base Camp begins. continue reading

Aug 202018
HBO Special on Everest: A Missed Opportunity

I’ve been an avid fan of HBO Real Sports for years, but when it comes to Everest, they seem to miss golden opportunities to tell the “Real” story. For Everest Haters, this segment will reenforce their beliefs. For Everest fans, they will immediately sees the holes in the reporting and for everyone else, they will wait for the next story on drugs in the NFL or illegal horse race gambling. Airing on Tuesday, August 21, 2018, a segment entitled “High Stakes at Mount Everest”, David Scott, a veteran television journalist, who has broken many important stories including the controversy surrounding continue reading

Jun 092018
K2 2018 Summer Season Coverage

Welcome to my annual coverage of the 2018 K2 summer climbing season. I will be reporting from my home in Colorado this year based on my personal experience of our successful 2014 K2 summit and covering the action the last three years. I try to report on K2 in the same style as my annual Everest coverage but accurate information is much more difficult to obtain from Northern Pakistan than from Nepal. I’ll do my best to throw in occasional coverage for climbers on Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I and II. As always, I use my blog to continue reading

Jun 022018
Preparing for Everest 2019!

With #Everest2018 in the books, I wanted to step back and see what lessons were available from this season and how to prepare for #Everest2019, if that’s in your mind. First off, let me start with a plug for my consulting service, Summit Coach, where I have worked with many climbers over the past 18 months to help them successfully summit Everest, Gasherbrum II, Denali and other peaks across the world. More on this in a moment. Everest 2018: The Good and the Bad This season was good in many respects with my estimate of a record 700+ summits and a continue reading

Everest 2018: Dead on Everest Japanese Alpinist Nobukazu Kuriki

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May 202018
Everest 2018: Dead on Everest Japanese Alpinist Nobukazu Kuriki

Stunning news that Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki was found dead at Camp 2 on the Nepal side of Everest on the Standard route. The Himalayan Times reports that Sherpas found him at C2. I had just reported that he was feeling better after a cough and was prepared to go higher on an unspecified route. He had struggled in 2018 with a high fever and a cough. Personally, I am shocked as I always found his climbs inspirational. Update: Its now being reported that he reached C3 on the Lhotse Face and began to have problems with coughing and pain. Intermittent radio contact continue reading

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