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Jan 222017
Everest Winter Attempt Reaches Camp 3 - Member Evacuated

Alex Txikon’s team reached Camp 3 at 6917m on the Lhotse Face but team member 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio, was evacuated by Helicopter with lung inflammation. Txikon posted on Facebook: From the C3 of Everest I send all my strength to Carlos Rubio Infante Muñiz great companion and friend who has had to be evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu because of a lung inflammatory process. He is stable and I know he is fine, but from here we miss him a lot, since he has worked like a champion and I am really proud of him. Tomorrow we continue reading

Jan 142017
Everest Winter Attempt Reaches Camp 1

Alex Txikon’s team and Sherpas have established the route through the Khumbu Icefall and have tagged Camp 1 at the entrance to the Western CWM. He reports they are moving well and climbing fast. Their Camp 1 is at 6040 meters, about 100 meters higher the normal location but it varies each season depending on avalanche danger off the West Shoulder of Everest and Nuptse to the south. He noted that the temperature at -30C/-22F. Txikon posted on his blog: After four stages of work equipping The Khumbu icefall yesterday that the wind gave us a window of good conditions, we ascended and spent the night continue reading

Jan 092017
Introducing Summit Coach - Consulting for Aspiring Climbers

If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2, Summit Coach can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of services based on Alan Arnette’s 20+ years of high altitude mountaineering experience and 30 years as a business executive. Summit Coach is fully independent and does not sell gear or trips. It is not a guide service and receives no compensation from any outside organization. All advice is continue reading

Jan 062017
Everest Winter Attempt Update

Alex Txikon is now at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side preparing to begin his acclimatization rotations on Everest. He is being supported by Seven Summits Treks and five Sherpas who will fix the route thru the Khumbu Icefall. They had their Puja today, January 6, 2016. Txikon is 35 years old and is joined by 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio. Also on the team are Aitor Barez, the expedition movie director and Pablo Magister who will serve as cameramen. Txikon along with Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara knocked off Nanga Parbat last winter leaving on K2 as the last 8000er continue reading

Dec 172016
Everest Winter, No O's Attempt!

A huge program has been announced by Alex Txikon who may be one of the few climbers on the planet qualified to attempt climbing Everest in the winter without supplemental oxygen. He and teammates, Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara knocked off Nanga Parbat last winter leaving on K2 as the last 8000er without a winter summit. An effort for a winter K2 summit by Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki was canceled due to lack of funds. As for Everest, Txikon announced on his website that he and a small team will arrive in Nepal on Christmas day to begin a two month effort to summit continue reading

Dec 082016
Gear: Winter Layers

With winter about to launch in full, and the upper United States experiencing an Arctic cold wave, I thought now is a good time to review some thoughts on how to layer for those winter climbs. I just got back home from a great summit climb on Mt. Washington in New Hampshire at 6,289 feet. But don’t let the relatively low altitude fool you into thinking its not cold on the top! “The rock” is known for some of the most unpredictable and worse weather on the planet. On April 12, 1934, the Mount Washington Observatory recorded a windspeed of continue reading

Nov 282016
Sherpa Death on Ama Dablam

Sad news from Nepal’s Ama Dablam. A relatively small earthquake, 5.4 in magnitude centered near Namche Bazaar, triggered the release of a few ice blocks that struck and killed climbing Sherpa, Lakpa Thundu Sherpa, a permanent resident of Pangboche, Solukhumbu district. He was supporting British climber, Ciaran Hill who was injured by the falling ice. They were climbing with a 13 person team lead by Jon Gupta along with Tim Mosedale out of the UK. The climbers were above Camp 3 on their summit push when the ice released. The Himalayan Times reported it was an avalanche but Mosedale seems to characterize it more of falling continue reading

Nov 142016
The State of Everest: A Conversation with Dave Hahn

With only six months to go before climbers head to Nepal and Tibet for the annual spring climb of Mt. Everest, Dave Hahn, 15 times summiter, was kind enough to share his thoughts on the state of Everest and his own personal plans for guiding. Dave Hahn One reason I wanted to catch up with Dave, was his comment in interviews earlier this year that he would stop leading Everest expeditions and instead offer private guidance on the mountain. I’ve known him for over 10 years and wondered if this was a reflection on the state of Everest or a personal life choice for continue reading

Autumn Climbing Around the World

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Oct 282016
Autumn Climbing Around the World

We are well into the Autumn climbing around the world including the Himalayan as well as the traditional shoulder season climbs around the world including Carstensz Pyramid (4, 884 m) in Indonesia and the Mexican volcanoes. So far all looks good with no serious incidents reported. There are no current attempts on any of the world’s 14 8000 meter mountains. The first Ascent of Burke Khang in Nepal is now underway. First Ascent Attempts Nuptse South Face – over French alpinist Frederic Degoulet  Frederic Degoulet and team have ended their attempt to open a new route on the South Face of Nuptse II, at 7742m. The summit is continue reading

Oct 232016
Climber Deaths: Junko Tabei, Mike Powell - Different Worlds, Same Love

This past week two climbers died. They were about as different as they could be: Junko Tabei and Michael Powell. Why do I write this post? These two represent ends of the climbing spectrum. People who embraced the sport, and motivated others. Now, thru their deaths, they are shining a light on ambition, achievement and acknowledgement. Junko Tabei 1939-2016 For many people, Junko is a familiar name as she was the first woman to summit Mt. Everest. She died this past week of peritoneal cancer at age 77. Junko was introduced to the mountains at age 10 by her fourth grade teacher when they summited continue reading