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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Sep 302018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits, Missing Climber, Skiing Lhotse

This last week has been the pinnacle for the 2018 autumn climbing season across the Himalayas in Tibet and Nepal. Sadly a Czech climber is missing after summiting Manaslu and the long-coveted ski descent of the Lhotse Couloir is apparently completed but not confirmed. Big Picture – Weekend Update This week will wrap up the volume teams leaving a few small, mostly independent climbers still attempting their peak. One point about this season I’ve noticed is that there are many, many, many small teams lead by Sherpas out of Nepal. The old-guard of western guides are here and there but continue reading

Sep 272018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits All Over

One of the best moments in climbing on the Himalayan is when you reach the summit of an 8000-meter, or lesser peak only hear a Sherpa screaming into his radio “Summmmmiiiitttt” with the energy of a World Cup Football announcer. You almost can’t help but smile. This scene is being repeated on Manaslu and Cho Oyu this week with summits being reported on both 8000ers. Cho Oyu – Summits Climbing the Seven Summits team reported they summited: “We are thrilled to announce the entire CTSS team is currently standing on the summit of Cho Oyu in perfect weather.” Tendi Sherpa lead continue reading

Sep 242018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summit Pushes Begin

Pretty much on schedule, multiple teams will be starting their summit push this week, if they haven’t already. The weather continues to be decent but fresh snow on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna will require a couple days to settle. Cho Oyu Climbing the Seven Summits team reported they left for the summit today, Monday Sept 24 2018: “Their plan is to head up to Camp 1 today and on to Camp 2 tomorrow. We are looking at an excellent weather window coming our way with low winds and dry conditions. We will keep watching the forecast like hawks as they make their way continue reading

Sep 202018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Sherpas Dies on Dhaulagiri

Team after team are wrapping up their acclimatization rotations so look for summit pushed to begin as early as this weekend or early next week. The weather is looking poor for next couple of days but then returning to nice autumn conditions, albeit with rain around Manaslu and snow on Dhaulagiri – which seems to be the norm for those peaks. Sherpa Death on Dhaulagiri As happens regularly when climbing the world’s largest peaks, a death has occurred. This time he was Dawa Geljen Sherpa of Makalu rural municipality – 2, Sankhuwasabha on Dhaulagiri. Apparently he was part of a continue reading

Sep 162018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Moving Along

The Autumn Himalayan climbing season continues to progress without a lot of drama or fanfare. The supply situation on Manaslu seems to have been corrected and overall, the weather is cooperating this September. There are no teams on Everest this autumn. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. Adventure Consultants has a nice team there and reports progress to Camp 1, similar to many of the other groups. They plan to spend 2 nights at C1 then 2 nights at top continue reading

Sep 112018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Has Poor Start on Manalsu

With the finger pointing underway, climbers are caught in the middle between the largest operator, Seven Summits Treks and the Nepal Government. Confusion around helicopters are preventing supplies from being flown into Manaslu base camp. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. A team from Climbing the Seven Summits lead by Tendi Sherpa says they have reached C1. They report good weather but they are low on the peak with a long way to go. Other teams report in at ABC continue reading

Sep 092018
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Begins

If it is early September, it must mean a migration to the big mountains of Tibet and Nepal. After being closed to climbing last year, Tibet is open and the usual suspects will be busy. Reports have it that more than 350 foreign climbers supported by over 300 Sherpas will be on the five Nepal and Tibet 8000-meter peaks commonly climbed in Autumn:  Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse, Shishapangma and Cho Oyu. Also look for teams on Ama Dablam and Cholastse. Usually the autumn climbing season is quiet compared to Everest or K2. The climbs are never “easy” as advertised by many company’s continue reading

Aug 262018
Update: 2018 Oxygen Failure on Everest - Regulator Recall

Followers of the Everest 2018 spring climbing season will recall that a few teams experienced a failure of their supplemental oxygen systems provided by the UK company, Summit Oxygen (SO). While alarming, to maintain a sense of perspective, it was 25 out of 500 to 1,000 that regulators failed, not a massive failure as some described. Neil Greenwood, the founder and Managing Director of SO, has sent me an update on what caused the problems the solution. He is recalling several batches of faulty regulators. Regulator Failures at 8,000-meters. First reported by Lucas Furtenbach’s north side Everest team, multiple teams continue reading

Aug 252018
My Summit Video from the 2014 K2 Climb

It took a while but I finally got around to editing all my K2 video clips from our 2014 summit climb into one short (33 minute) video. As regular readers remember, all my climbs are to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s Disease. I became the oldest American at age 58 and the 18th American to summit K2. We summited on my birthday July 27, 2014. The video starts with our arrival in Islamabad, then the journey via planes, and FJ Cruiser’s to the “end of the road” at Askole where the 80-mile trek to K2 Base Camp begins. continue reading

Aug 202018
HBO Special on Everest: A Missed Opportunity

I’ve been an avid fan of HBO Real Sports for years, but when it comes to Everest, they seem to miss golden opportunities to tell the “Real” story. For Everest Haters, this segment will reenforce their beliefs. For Everest fans, they will immediately sees the holes in the reporting and for everyone else, they will wait for the next story on drugs in the NFL or illegal horse race gambling. Airing on Tuesday, August 21, 2018, a segment entitled “High Stakes at Mount Everest”, David Scott, a veteran television journalist, who has broken many important stories including the controversy surrounding continue reading

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