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May 232019
Everest 2019: 3 New Deaths, Now 9 on Everest, 19 Overall

Three new deaths were reported on Everest during last 24 hours up to Midnight Thursday, May 24, 2019. Summit pushes are underway now. The winds have returned plus the routes are extremely crowded on both sides due to few summit weather windows this spring. Thus far this spring, there have been 15 deaths across six 8,000-meter peaks: Everest, Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse. The deceased climbers have been: 7 Indian, 1 Sherpa, 1 Taiwanese, 1 American, 1 Bulgarian, 1 Chilean, 1 Peruvian, and 1 TBD Summit Windows Normally there are between 7 to 12 good weather days for summit continue reading

May 192019
Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 19

Last week was important for climbers across the Himalayan. The ropes were fixed to the summit on four separate 8000-meter mountains all on the same day, May 14, 2019. This was historic in that it has never happened on so many peaks on the same day. With that, many peaks, including Everest, were summited in cold temperatures but manageable winds. Then something else historic occurred. Seven climbers lost their lives and three went missing, presumed dead. Add in one more death on Annapurna two weeks earlier, it totals 11 deaths and this is even before the largest summit push in history on Everest that begins early next week. continue reading

May 172019
Too Many Deaths - Opinion

A horribly disturbing trend is showing all the signs of coming to full life this spring season across the world’s highest peaks. Thus far, 10 11 people have died on six 8000-meters peaks in Nepal and Tibet. And the main Everest pushes have not begun. About 110 people have summited thus far with another 700 to 800 on both sides going up next week. I’ve been talking about the trend of inexperienced climbers with unqualified guides for many years now. My fear has been that with all the success seen on these big peaks, combined with operators offering low prices that it has in-fact attracted a continue reading

May 112019
Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 12

Update: Sherpas at South Col. Will fix to Balcony tomorrow and summit on Tuesday. Let’s be clear. Climbing Everest is complicated. The press likes to characterize it as an easy “walk-up” or “short-roped to the summit” after paying $65,000, As I have said for years, this is lazy cut and paste journalism that disrespects the climbers and the Sherpas. In 2019, the storyline is the trash and bodies. I’ll address this later. But for today, there is only word on the mind of most Everest’s climbers and followers today: ropes. Without the ropes, there will be few summits. The weather continue reading

May 042019
Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 5

If you look at Everest over the past decade or so, there is a slight trend with the weather. April is generally nice, May starts off horribly, then a ‘miracle’ happens and the winds and snow take a holiday off the summit opening the floodgates to everyone on both sides. Well, 2019 is on track! But no one counted on a Cyclone and the Jet Stream playing footsie on May 2! No doubt that the upper mountain was hit the hardest. Each weekend during the season I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories for the past week. Also, continue reading

May 022019
Everest 2019: Annapurna Climber Dies - Blame Game Continues

The tragic story of Annapurna climbers Malaysian Wui Kin Chin, 49, and Nima Tshering Sherpa, 32, has captured global attention. Sadly, Dr. Chin passed away in a Singapore hospital on May 2, 2019. Cause of death has not been released but his death was attributed to injures he sustained while climbing Annapurna. He was flown from Kathmandu to Singapore by air ambulance two days earlier. How Dr. Chin could go from summiting Annapurna at 8091-meter/26,545-feet with 30 other climbers and then being alone for over 40 hours a few hundred meters below the summit is difficult to understand. Dr. Chin was a continue reading

Apr 292019
Everest 2019: Near Death on Annapurna. What Happened?

The tragic story of Annapurna climbers Malaysian Wui Kin Chin, 49, and Nima Tshering Sherpa, 32, is becoming a bit more clear. They summited Annapurna around 3:50 pm on April 23, 2019, in high winds and deep snow already weakened.  30 other people also summited but Chin became extremely fatigued while descending. Through a series of events, he went missing for over 40 hours, left alone above 7,500-meters fully exposed to the elements before an extremely risky rescue could retrieve him. The last update on his condition, on Sunday, April 28, 2019, said he was being flown from Kathmandu by air-ambulance to Singapore continue reading

Apr 272019
Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 28

April is just about over and everything on Everest is mostly on schedule. High winds were reported on both sides. Lots of information in this Weekend Update. The #Everest2019 season is in full swing! The lack of rope to the North Col is a bit disturbing and suggest the objective dangers are growing on that side but I’ll get to that in a moment. Last week saw the first 8000-meter summits of the season on Annapurna – 32 in all but one climber is now in serious condition in Kathmandu after getting separated from the group and left behind. Each continue reading

Apr 212019
Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 21

As we close out the third full week of the 2019 season, all is well on both sides of Everest. No major incidents and all systems, except for EverestLink, seems to be up and running, but they seem to have their links worked out. Each weekend during the season I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories for the past week. Also, now that the season is well underway, I’ll strive to post my daily updates for all #everest2019 each day before noon, Mountain Daylight Time, GMT -7. Headlines A quick rundown on who is where. For a complete continue reading

Apr 142019
Everest 2019: Deadly Crash at Lukla

Already considered one of the most difficult airports in the world, today April 14, 2019, at the Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Nepal an aircraft designed for high-altitude, short runway take-offs and landings veered to the right while taking off, crashing into a parked helicopter killing the first officer of the airplane and one police officer standing near the helicopter. A second police officer who was injured, later died while undergoing surgery in Kathmandu. Four other people were injured but are reported out of danger. The plane was a Czech built Let L-410 Turbolet flown by Summit Air, a small Nepali airline. continue reading