The summer Karakorum season is over, well, I think so. There are always a few surprises. The 48 summits on K2 were close but not a record. 2018 saw a record with 62 total summits, followed by 2004 with an estimated 51. This season saw two deaths, one on a new route on K2 and one on Broad Peak. Overall there were around 100 summits in the Karakorum
I interview Garrett Madison, from K2 Base Camp today, July 30, 2021, after his 3rd summit. Discussed his 21 person team summit plus the latest on finding the bodies of the 3 missing winter climbers. And an update on the West Ridge effort – it’s not over.
Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering has now summited K2 three times. Only one other person has more. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. He was the leader for the 21 person team who submitted on July 28, 2018, at approximately 6:07 AM PKT (local time).
With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his summit. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1 and 2, the snow conditions on the mountain, finding the bodies of the three climbers who went missing last winter, and more. I think you’ll enjoy getting this first-hand information directly from Northern Pakistan.
After a big day on July 27th with 19 summits, the 28th was better with another 21 from Madison Mountaineering and three from Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours. Thus far, and it’s probably over, there have been 43 summits on K2.
We have the first summits on K2 in the summer of 2021.
The first K2 summit wave is underway around 22:00 PT, Monday, July 26, 2021. The lead is from Sherpas from Pioneer Adventure and Madison Mountaineering.
With teams now above the High Camp, C4, fixing the route to the summit, the bodies of the three climbers who died this past winter season 2020/21 were found. K2 summits perhaps tonight, July 26, 2021.
With the death of Scottish legend, Rick Allen, now Karakorum Expeditions has decided to end their entire effort on K2 this summer. I had been receiving word from climbers that the expedition was already in trouble for the clients on the standard Abrusszi Ridge.
K2 continues to live up to its reputation by taking another life, this time on a new route. Meanwhile, teams are making progress on the Abruzzi but some climbers feel the lack of support and organization make this summer too dangerous and have thrown in the towel. Those remaining continue to target July 27th and 28th for their summit.
The K2 teams are leaving Base Camp for the summit push targeting July 27th and 28th. The poor weather has finally let up and they are hoping the winds will be calm on the summit.
With the summits and tragedy on Broad Peak subsidizing, albeit, with still much unknown, the K2 teams are patiently waiting out the poor weather for their chance. However, it appears the mountain may have received well over a foot of fresh snow, thus increasing the avalanche danger, especially around Camp 3
