Q: How hard is it?
A: It depends on what you have done. I did not find it very difficult after Mont Blanc, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and some technical climbs like The Grand Teton. The biggest issue with Denali is the weather and a very short section above the high camp that is fixed with ropes. Some people have trouble with pulling the sleds. I did not find this a problem.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: June and July are the main seasons. Earlier finds very cold temps and later brings increased crevasse danger. I was there in late June and early July and the temperature was acceptable as was the crevasse danger. An advantage of going later is that many of the snow camps are already built so you do not have to build snow walls at every camp plus it is warmer.

Preparation:

Q: Anything special about this mountain?
A: The wild card is the weather. You can be socked in for days. Also, you need to be comfortable with snow camping and extreme temperature swings.

Gear

Q: What kind of gear do I need?
A: Denali requires the normal cold weather climbing gear. Since it is not technical, you can get away with a huge pack, jumar, harness and an ice axe. You need a big pack to carry all your personal gear plus your share of the group gear. When coming down from the high camp, everyone had a crammed pack.

Q: What kind of clothing?
A: You need to be very careful of the cold. This is a cold mountain. The weather created from the Bearing Sea can be brutal, so pack your Down and all your long undies. Even though it is not an 8,000m climb, I took all my 8K gear and was glad I did. Please visit my gear page for reference for my overall climbs.

Climbing Denali

Q: Which route is most popular?
A: The West Buttress is the most popular. The are other routes including Cassin Ridge, West Rib & South Buttress extremely technical and subject to avalanches.

Q: How long will it take?
A: 2 weeks on the mountain plus another few days to get onto and out of the mountain so allow at least 3 weeks. However, it is very common to be stuck for another week somewhere on Denali with bad weather.

Q: What kind of weather conditions will I experience?
A: Extreme cold and can be very windy! Temperatures can easily reach 0 degrees F and -30F at the summit, not including wind chills. Cold is a big problem on Denali. Also white-out snow conditions can easily develop.

Q: Will altitude sickness a problem?
A: Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000', much less when you are going above 20,000'. We had climbers with severe headaches and nausea at 14,000'. Altitude sickness is impossible to predict. You can do well on one trip and collapse on the next. I think the key is to focus on eating and drinking. Hydration is so important but many climbers let it go. If you follow a good acclimatization schedule, AMS danger can be reduced but never eliminated.

Q: What is the biggest problem most people face?
A: Cold. It can be colder than you have ever felt. The humidity is high plus the winds are strong. But, it can also be mild. We have a picture of our expedition with all the males shirtless and getting a tan!

Q: Can I do it?
A: If you have the desire to climb McKinley. you can do it. It requires stamina and some strength to carry the loads. You need snow camping experience, some time at high altitudes and a a positive attitude. And remember, that standing on the summit of any mountain is not the end-game. It is coming home to the people who matter in your life!