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I climbed Everest three times- 2002, 2003 and 2008.
My best was the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters)
before health, weather or my own judgment caused me
to turn back. When not climbing, I cover the Everest
season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009 and the 2010 Everest seasons.
This page is about my 2008 climb.
In 2007 and 2008, I took on a challenging goal: The
Road Back to Mt. Everest. This was a year long journey
where I attempted to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000
for Alzheimer's research. In preparation, I attempted Denali
in June 2007 and Shishapangma in September 2007 then summited
Aconcagua and Orizaba in January 2008 and finally returned
to Everest in April 2008. In between I climbed more of my
Colorado 14ers. Using a system of a digital camera, PDA and
satellite phone, I sent dispatches directly from the climbs.
You can read the dispatches.
Alzheimer's is a horrible disease that impacts so many. Researchers
are making great progress but more is needed. The Cure
Alzheimer's Fund is a non-profit organization that raises
money and funds targeted research with the highest probability
of slowing, stopping or reversing Alzheimer's disease.
The Fund is supported by grants from three families that
covers all of their overhead. This means 100% of your donations
go directly to Alzheimer's research! None go to Alan's climbing
expenses. I encourage you to read more about the Cure Alzheimer's
Fund at their website and to make your tax deductible donation
today to Memories
are Everything through the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. You
can still make a contribution. |
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I climbed Everest twice - in 2002 and again in 2003 - from the
south side. I made it to about 27,000 feet both years before
health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. I
returned in April and May of 2008 to attempt the summit from
the South Col. I joined a small team of 3 climbers.
2008 was a unique year on Everest since the Chinese took the
Olympic torch to the summit. However extensive controversy occurred
when the Chinese asked all north side expeditions to not step
on the mountain until May 10th - very late to execute a successful
acclimatizion schedule and summit. So at the last minute we changed
to the south side or from Nepal. But even in Nepal, the Chinese
held tight control with communication and climbing restrictions
that almost put the entire season in jeopardy.
My training was more intensive than ever. For my previous climbs
in 2002 and 2003, I trained on my Colorado mountains as well
lots of exercise. For 2008, in addition to my 14ers, I incorporated
four high altitude climbs over the previous 12 months. They included
Denali, Shishapangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba.
Complete live coverage posted during the 2008
climb can be viewed on the dispatch page.
By way of my own climbing experiences (this was my 6th 8000m
climb) and my Everest coverage each year since 2004, I tried
to learn what allows for a successful summit. In consultation
with other climbers, I had a good plan for 2008 that took into
account six critical areas: acclimatization, nutrition, hydration,
oxygen, clothing and rest - plus mental toughness.
Please see my completely new Everest
Frequently Asked Questions page with a new section on the
2008 climb. My regular coverage of the Everest
2009 season has already started.
I have written a very extensive and detailed
recap of my personal experience and perceptions plus a many
exclusive hi-resolution pictures taken during the 2008 climb.
It is in PDF form and can be downloaded from this link:
Everest
2008: Mountain of Politics
Part 1: Rumors of Demise looked at the rumors
and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and
during the trek to base camp.
Part 2: Volunteer Prisoners at base camp detailed
the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the
Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at camp 1.
Part 3: Sniper at base camp covered our climb
to camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at camp 2 on Everest!!
Part 4: Summit Night is a personal account
of my summit night on Everest |
