Q: Do I really need to use a guide for a big climbing expedition?
A: It depends. For climbs within your ability, go with a buddy. I use guides only on new climbs, to a place where I am not familiar with the area or where I need their expertise in logistics. While many people climb 8,000 meter peaks such as Everest or Cho Oyu and 6,000m peaks such as Denali and Aconcagua without guides, you need to know what you are doing and have the time to arrange all the details. Long expeditions are a maze of details. You would be absolutely amazed at the amount of gear, food and supplies it takes to climb a big hill. On Everest, we had literally tons of gear. It is a pity to stop your summit bid because you ran out of fuel for your stove or did not bring enough rope.

Q: So, what is the story with Guides? Are they worth the price?
A: Tough question because it depends on you. If you have the experience and the time and the money to put together your own climb, you can save some money. However, this is rare for most people. Some people don't have the money to pay for a guide so organizing their own expedition is their only way to climb a big HIll. Then there are people who lack the experience and absolutely need a guide service. The sad reality is that if you use a guide and all goes well, you may question their value. The real value is demonstrated when something goes wrong. That is when the guide earns their fee and the best show their stuff.

Q: What is the difference between an Everest expedition for $65K and one for $15K?
A: Often it is simply how much is bundled into one single price versus services offered as options. Sometimes it is the availability of resources: western guides, back up supplies (ropes, oxygen bottles, etc) medical facilities, communications and profit for the operator. But this is difficult to compare. When you look at the "what's included and what's not included on a companies' web site they read almost identical. This is why you must do more research. As for price, the best advice is to shop around. Prices range widely but be very careful when comparing services. The larger companies include everything in one fee. On low cost offers understand if oxygen and food is included. Ask about in-country flights and meals. Understand tips and how much is expected. You will get what you pay for but be careful not to pay too much!

Q: What about using a company just for the logistics and not for their guides?
A: This is a popular option with experienced climbers. You get to share the climbing permit for a lower price than if you bought one individually plus you receive all the base camp logistics and usually the use fixed ropes. You do not get the services of the guides or facilities above base camp. On Everest, this will save you about $30K off the list price of $60K from some companies. International Mountain Guides has an excellent track record for this approach but most guide services offer this option.

Q: How about those ground agencies like Asian Trekking in Nepal?
A: This is another popular option. You are basically buying onto a group permit of individuals. They provide Base Camp services (kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables), cooks, porters and climbing Sherpas. There are no Western Guides and you have to be careful about the experience of the Sherpas. But for experienced climbers this is probably the lowest cost option out there. But, be careful, you must have the appropriate experience since there is no safety net!

Q: How do I select a guide service?
A: References is the best answer. See how long they have been in business. Ask how new is their group gear. Ask about the food. But most important, ask who will be the lead guide on your trip. Talk to that person. Understand their philosophy. For example, is the guide there simply to climb that mountain and you happen to be along or will they turn around with you if you get in trouble? Ask about their most difficult client and how they handled that situation. And, of course, ask about their direct experience on this particular mountain. Do not be their first client! I have some questions everyone should ask before giving any Guide or Company your money.

Q: How do I know if the company is good or bad?
A: Again, references. Speak with a few clients over the previous three years of expeditions of your type. Do not compare an Aconcagua climb with an Everest expedition. Make sure it is apples to apples since the difficulties increase with the complexity of an expedition. Also, do a Google search with the companies' name and some words like complaint, death, trouble, etc. But the absolute best way is to speak with previous customers who have made their goal and, most importantly, those who did not. However, keep in mind that everyone has an opinion and they are not always representing the absolute facts.

Q: Is there an organization that oversees or regulates guiding companies?
A: Not formally as in a government agency. There are formal organizations that provide training and accreditation such as the AMGA in the US, New Zealand Mountain Guides Association, Australian School of Mountaineering. Also there are country mountaineering organizations such as the American Alpine Club, British Mountaineering Council, Alpine Club of Pakistan and Nepal Mountaineering Association. I strongly endorse organizations such as these since they not only promote climbing as a sport but also work to keep mountains open, clean and safe in most cases.

Q: Alan, you had some bad experiences with guides, are you down on them?
A: No, I am not down on guides. Yes, I have had some poor experiences and some fantastic ones. It is unfair to paint every guide with the same brush, but some guides are not what they are advertised. The differences between guides are huge and this is why you must check out your guide before signing up for a major expedition. I believe the industry has a serious problem that needs to be addressed. Please see my editorial - 'When Good Guides Turn Bad'

Q: What is my recourse if I have a poor experience with a company or a specific guide?
A: The first step is to make sure the company owner knows your concerns. My experience is that the owners of the larger, well-established companies want to hear your feedback and will take it seriously. But keep in mind that you may have some part to play in your poor experience so remain objective. If you feel like your concerns are not being taken seriously, contact the climbing organization in their country to register your complaint. Most guides get future business by word of mouth so be honest and accurate when asked your opinion. Finally vote with your feet and never do business with that company again.

1. Was the pre-trip conversation with the guide comfortable? Did you feel free to ask ANY question?
2. Has YOUR Guide been to and guided on the mountain you are attempting? Never be the first client.
3. Has YOUR Guide summited the mountain? If not test their desire to summit versus getting YOU to the top.
4. Will your Guide have any help during the expedition with logistics. It is easy to overload the Guide with cooking, logistics, etc so they get distracted from guiding.
5. If there are multiple Guides, have they worked together before your trip? Their dynamics are key to a successful trip.
6. Who is running your expedition? Does the Guide have final authority on decisions on the mountain? Get examples of 'hard decisions' made in the past.
7. What is the Guide's experience in climbing on the terrain you will cross. Make sure they have the proper skills (rock, snow, glacier, etc) to truly guide you. Ask for their resume of previous climbs.
8. Determine the on-mountain communication. Make sure you have a radio on summit night on 8,000m mountains and do not leave it up to a Sherpa or a Guide.
9. Ask your references about the Guides communication skills. Did they hide information or speak openly about good and bad news. How did they treat the clients? With respect or as being inferior to them.
10. Would previous clients use YOUR Guide again? GET REFERENCES!!!!!!!!!!!

Tips

If your selected Guide Service looks good on their site and you have positive references ask the GUIDE on your trip a few questions:

General: How many people have signed up for the trip and what is their minimum needed to run the trip. Obtain your teammates names and numbers and call them prior just to make sure everyone is really committed. It is a real shame to have your trip canceled at the last minute due to low sign -up.

Will you have Sherpas or HAPs on the climbs? You need to have a support team that has climbed your peak before. Especially important if the Guide has not. Normally you will have some porters with you who will carry group gear, food, tents, etc so sometimes they know the route but 99% of the time they do not - they just carry gear. So be specific if the non-Western 'Guides" are Sherpas or Porters and if they have used them before.

Who will fix ropes on your peak? Again, it should be Sherpa or guides with experience. This point is a life and death kind of thing ...

Will there be cooks? Usually on Nepal and Pakistan trips you have cooks. Ask about sanitation - do they boil ALL the water, including the dish washing water? This is a key point for your health.

What will you be expected to carry in YOUR pack? Will you carry any group gear - stove, gas, tents, sleeping pads, food? Usually not on the larger expeditions. If they say "personal gear" only, again get specific on what is included in the group gear e.g. sleeping pads? If you have to carry your ice axe, crampons and climbing Gortex the entire way? Be very specific about this if you are both trekking and climbing you need almost two different sets of gear: one light (trek) and one heavy (climbing). If you have to carry All this on YOUR back during a trek, you will be worn out by the time you get to your climbing peak.

Ask about acclimatization. Look at the schedule. The rue of thumb in the Khumbu is no more than 1,000 feet higher each night. Some services advertise many attractive features such as a trek plus a couple of climbs (trekking peaks) or for expeditions, a shorter schedule that may be more attractive to time-pressed clients. Be careful because acclimatization cannot be rushed. If you do, you will become sick and your climb is over.

A final tip is never be the first to sign up or send your money. I have had one trip canceled and another almost canceled within several weeks of departure. The company had my money so I had few choices as to selecting other companies quickly.