Note: the term 'guide' has grown to mean something different in 2010. Most of the companies I list on this page offer 'guided' climbs but this does not mean a 1:1 ratio between western guide and client. It means that there is one 'leader' who is on the mountain with many clients at the same time. On large Himalayan peaks it is common to have one western guide/leader for as many as 8 to 20 clients. The large teams supplement the guide/leader ratio with Sherpas (often at an addition cost) at ratios from 1:1 up to 1:2 Sherpa to client - any more than this is not guided or led in my opinion.

The best companies keep their total clients in a single push under ten with a 1:1 sherpa:client ratio plus an experience western guide.

With large groups or high ratios, if you get in trouble (fall, illness, or lost) you might not be able to reach your western guide/leader or qualified Sherpa for help. If you really want a true 'guide' then you will pay more than their top price listed but you can get a 1:1 ratio with an experienced western guide. While a company may have a good reputation, your experience could be fantastic or a disaster depending on the on-mountain leadership. Spend as much time understanding, researching and interviewing your leaders and the expedition organization as you do the company and the mountain.

The indicates a company I would seriously consider without hesitation based on their safety record, interaction with customers, summit success and to some extent pricing value. All of this has been sustained over many years and many types of expeditions. The others are good companies but warrant further research depending on the complexity of the climb and the type of experience you desire.

• Alpine Ascents International: I have never personally used AAI, but have seen them in action on many climbs. If money is no object, they may be the best U.S. Based guiding company for inexperienced climbers. They run their trips in a strict manner and charge top price with lots of hand holding for inexperienced clients. Their excellent web site is one of the best anywhere and has loads of information from gear to training. While they have an excellent reputation, they follow a proven formula with smaller teams so understand what you are getting into if you are looking for a more independent climb. Bottom line: I would use them for any of the 7 Summits depending on price.
  
• Adventure Consultants: I used them on Everest in 2003 and 2002 and Ama Dablam in 2000. They operates out Wanaka, New Zealand and run expeditions all around the world especially the Himalayas. Their prices are amongst the highest but you get all the luxuries available on the big Hills. They limit their teams to 9-12 climbers, have seasoned western guides and excellent Sherpas. The teams are usually very international which I prefer. Their safety record is outstanding and usually perform well on getting people to the summit. Guy runs a first rate operation, especially when he is on the climb. Bottom line: I would use them for any of the 7 Summits depending on price.
  
• Himalayan Experience: Russell Brice, owner, is a New Zealander living in Chamonix France. I met him on Cho Oyu. He runs excellent expeditions to Everest's south sides and to Manaslu. According to his website, he "no longer runs Everest north or Choy Oyu trips due to the uncertainty in China". He consistently puts climbers safely on the summit year in, year out. Brice has a reputation of tight control so be prepared to follow his rules strictly. He has provided logistics to non-direct clients (Discovery Channel, film makers, other expeditions etc.) so you want to make sure you have his full attention before signing up. Bottom line: I would use them for any climb without question
  
• International Mountain Guides: I went to Cho Oyu with IMG in 1998. Seattle based, Eric Simonson specializes on the Himalayas and his partners on other peaks around the world. IMG is a world-class operation with steady logistics and planning. They charge mid to top prices and offer all the frills. I would consider IMG for any trip but ... they recently have had large teams in excess of 20 climbers plus Sherpas so don't expect a boutique operation. Of note they divide into smaller teams during the climb. With all these climbers, they have massive support staff and are prepared for most any emergency. Get references from climbers in the last 12 months to understand their current performance and the type of experience you want. Bottom line: I would consider them for almost any climb but would need to understand how the trip was being run.

Smaller, Custom Guides

• Altitude Junkies: Owned and run by Phil Crampton, they were instrumental in helping me get to Everest in 2008. Phil has run Everest climbs and managed logistics for other companies including Mountain Madness for years. He has a strong team of Sherpas and knows how to run a great base camp. His teams are limited to 8 maximum and are typically more experienced climbers. His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Phil leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. Bottom line: I would use them for Everest, Shishapangma, Manaslu or Cho Oyu.
  
• Mountain Trip: I used them for Denali was was pleased with the guides (Bill Allen- who now owns the company). They have expanded to the Himalayas expeditions by parterning with Scott Woolums. There are six companies authorized to guide on Denali by the National Park Service so I would check out each one and make sure to ask the 10 questions. MT seems to have the best Denali program out there in my experience and observations. Their Denali teams are limited to 9 climbers each climb. Their pricing is near the highest for each mountain. Bottom line: I would use them for Denali and seriously consider them for other climbs.
  
• Project Himalaya: This is a small company run by Jamie McGuinness based out of Kathmandu. I went to Shishapangma with him in 2007 and was very pleased. He has employed the same Sherpas for years and has outstanding BC logistics (food, tents, power,etc.) with smaller teams. His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Jamie leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. His base camp services are outstanding as are his Sherpas who do most of the on-mountain leadership. Their website is one of the best for high quality pictures, quality dispatches and overall mountain information. Bottom line: I would consider them for any Himalaya Trek or Shishapangma, Manaslu, Cho Oyu.
  
• Rainier Mountaineering Inc.: RMI is best know for guiding 4,000 people a year up Mt. Rainier in Washington State in the US. I used them with some friends in 2004. I was pleased with the guiding service but the rest of the operation was a little remiss. Overall an excellent operation that I highly recommend for novices. The NPS expanded the number of guide services on Rainier so the competition should bring lower prices and improved service. RMI also offers several international climbs. Bottom line: I would use them for Rainier.

Trekking and Other Companies

• Mountain Travel-Sobek: I used them on my first trip to Nepal in 1997. Cathy-Ann Taylor led that trip (she still works for them as of 09/08) and is one of the best trekking guides around. First rate trips almost everywhere. Sophisticated web site with a professional look. Bottom line: I would use them for any trek around the world.
  
• Field Touring: In 2005 I climbed Aconcagua and in 2006, Broad Peak with FT. Dave Hancock focus on basement level pricing and targets self-sufficient climbers who think they do not want or need personal guiding or expensive extra services. Their teams size can be quite large on popular climbs. I would be very wary of using them on major expeditions to serious (6000m+) mountains based on comments from recent climbers on their trips. If you select them be advised not to expect extensive hand-holding, standard base camp comforts that the more expensive companies offer and attention to details. Get recent references that are at your same ability.
  
• Tower Guides: I went ice climbing in the famous Ouray ice park with Andy Petefish in 1999. He Guides at Devil's Tower in Wyoming during the summer. Andy is very professional and a great teacher. Good site with complete information on his services.
  
• Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides: Both offer trips in Jackson Wyoming. I used JHMG for my Grand Teton trip. Be advised that as of 09/08 only Exum is approved to guide the Exum ridge during the popular summer months. Also speak with your guide before signing up since I found the quality quite variable.
  
• St. Elias Alpine Guides: Custom trips to Alaska's Wrangell-St. Elias Mountain range for first ascents and ice climbing. I did some first ascents and ice climbing with them in 1999. Bob is very willing to make your trip whatever you want. Employees a motivated young team of guides. Basic web site with comprehensive information on their trips.
  
• Alaska Mountaineering School: Specializes in Alaska and Denali. I climbed Denali with them in 2007. It was an OK trip with good logistics and guide skills. They ran it too much like a school room (with school in their name, what was I expecting!?) for my taste but it might appeal to climbers with less experience. They were also ultra-ultra-conservative in climbing style. Nice people but Mountain Trip is a better choice for Denali.

European Based Companies

• Jagged Globe: A UK based company. I know several people who have used them with good satisfaction. But be careful of who your guide is for your trip since there have been some poor experiences. They work with other companies and offer trips almost anywhere. Nice site with many pictures and trip reports. They offer a unique "pre-expedition weekend" where you meet your mates and get a little work in before the trip.
  
• Kobler & Partners: Kari Koebler's guiding company based in Switzerland. I have never used Kari but he is quite popular in Europe. They are expensive - US$54K for Everest north. Some reports indicate spotty client satisfaction. The website is in German.
  
• Wilco van Rooijen: Dutch explorer who runs expeditions around the world. I was with Wilco on Broad Peak/K2 2006 expedition. He summited K2 in 2008. He is an incredibly strong climber based out of the Netherlands. Website is in Dutch.
  
• Borge Ousland: A modern day Amundsen, Borge runs expeditions to both poles. He was the first person - ever - to go solo and unsupported across Antarctica. I was with him on Cho Oyu in the late '90s. Great person with incredible stories. Website is in English.

Climbing Schools

• American Alpine Institute: Climbing courses and trips. Located in Washington State. I have no experience with this company, please send me an email if you do!
  
• International Mountain Climbing School: Climbing courses and trips. Located in New Hampshire. I have no experience with this company, please send me an email if you do!
  
• National Outdoor Leadership School: a long time outdoor company
  
• Outward Bound: another long leader in outdoor training

* The term 'leading' compared to 'guiding' indicates the expedition does not have a western or lead Sherpa always with the climbers throughout the expedition. This may or may not be important to your selection.

Expedition Companies Reference
Information taken from company websites in late 2008 and are subject to correction and changes. Visit their sites for latest information.

Please see Selecting a Guide for more information