Q: Where is Shishapangma?
A: In south central Tibet a few miles from the Nepalese boarder
and about 75 miles east of Mt. Everest. The nearest airports are Lhasa and Kathmandu.
It is the 14th highest mountain on Earth and the lowest 8000m mountain. It is
unique since it is the only 8000m mountain 100% located in Tibet and not on a
boarder. Similar to Everest's north side, there is a road that goes to the base
camp sometimes call DC or Driver's camp. But after that it is all on foot and
Yak.
Q: What does Shishapangma mean?
A: It is a Tibetan name meaning “crest
above the grassy plain". The Chinese call it Xixabangma which is translated
to mean "bad weather" or "severe climate"
Q: What
is the history?
A:The first recorded ascent of Xixabangma
was in 1964 by a mammoth size Chinese Expedition consisting of 195 climbers.
Since it is one of the 14, 8000m mountains it been climbed
by famous mountaineers from all over the world including Ed Viesturs, Reinhold
Messner, Doug Scott, Roger Baxter-Jones, Alex MacIntyre, Alan Hinkes Jerzy
Kukuczka and Erhard Loretan.
Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: As with most Himalayan peaks, Spring is best since every day
it gets warmer with less threat of snow. The Fall season is just the opposite.
I climbed in September and had a lot of snowy weather and severe
snow with high winds towards the end that stopped the climb for our
team and all the other expeditions.
Q: I understand that Shishapangma is an easy 8000m climb. How hard
is it?
A: Shisha is often called an "easy" 8000m
mountain in the sense that there is almost no technical climbing (e.g.
vertical walls). However there is always avalanche dangers plus the biggest
challenges is that it actually has two summits. Many climbers who claim
they have summited Shisha have actually only attained the fore-summit
(Central Summit). The true summit (Main Summit) is another 3 meters (12
feet) higher but requires a traverse of a knife edge ridge or a circuitous
route from the Central Summit Ridge to reach it.
Q: How does Shisha compare with Everest or other 8,000m peaks?
A: It is a great training climb for aspiring Everest climbers
to see how their body reacts to high altitude - 8,000m. It is very similar
to Cho Oyu and Broad Peak except that Broad has more sustained steep climbing.
There are no features like Everest's Lhotse Face or Hillary Step on Shishapangma
but the overall atmosphere is similar.
Q: Is a Shishapangma climb dangerous?
A: Absolutely. You should only attempt Shishapangma if you
have the proper experience and logistics for emergency situations.
It is isolated and helicopter resource is not available. Most deaths
are a result of falls but the weather and altitude also takes it's
toll.
Q: How many people have summited and how many people have
died trying?
A: As of 2008 there have been about 273 summits (compared
with approximately 3500 on Everest) according to 8000ers.com. 23
climbers have died, including 1991 when six Japanese climbers were
buried in an avalanche and in 1999, when top mountaineers Alex Lowe
and Dave Bridges died on the mountain. Statistically, Shisha is more
dangerous than Everest in modern times with a fatality rate of 8.4%
versus 4.4% for Everest.
Q: What was your training like?
A: Aerobic capacity, muscular strength, balance and attitude.
I ran, lifted weights, stretched and used visualization techniques to address
these areas. I climbed Colorado 14ers regularly. I had to reduce my running
since my knees just would not take it anymore so I used an elliptical machine
instead. When I did run, I changed from long 8 mile runs to 3 miles runs with
intervals. I climbed to 17,000 on a three week Denali expedition in June 2007
just prior to this climb.
Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: Yes, it is always a challenge on 8,000m climbs. We used supplemental
oxygen for the summit push. Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000',
much less when you are going above 22,000'. To acclimatize en route, the travel
to base camp takes about ten days including a trip to Lhasa Tibet.
Q: Can you prepare for the altitude?
A: Not really. The common approach is to move slowly up the mountain (1000' a day maximum) spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep up until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes and especially above 8000m (26,300'). As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases, although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains less molecules of oxygen.
Once exposed to high altitude the watery part of our blood (plasma) decreases to increase the density of the red blood cells thus making our blood thicker and harder for the heart to pump. The heart pumps faster and we breath harder to compensate and over time, this is corrected with more red blood cells. Red blood cells carry oxygen to our muscles. By climbing higher than the previous day then returning to a lower altitude, your body creates these red blood cells. Without sufficient oxygen our muscles get tired quickly and you eventually may suffer from cerebral edema (the brain swells) or pulmonary edema (fluid build-up in the lungs). The only cure is to get lower fast (1000' minimum) but if you are high up on the mountain this is often impossible and death is the result.
You cannot do much to acclimatize while at a low altitude but there are companies
that claim to help the acclimatization process through specially designed tents
that simulate the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. I have no personal
experience with these systems but you can find more details at the Hypoxico website.
A friend used this system prior to an Aconcagua and Lhotse climb with great success.
Brian Oestrike is the contact and now works for the company. They cost about
$7,000 or can be rented for about $170 a week.
Q: What about Diamox or other drugs to help adjust to high altitude?
A: Some people take Diamox a few days before starting the ascent.
There is no downside other than some annoying tingling in your fingers and more
peeing (by design) but I have used it occasionally and found it helps. If you
want to go the 'natural' route you can take Ginkgo Balboa starting 5 days before
climbing. I have used it once and if I use drugs, I use Diamox now. According
to Dr. Peter Hacket's (renowned high altitude Physician) website,
sleep medication such as zolpidem (Ambien®) and eszopiclone (Lunesta®) are safe
at altitude and seem to work well without affecting the breathing
drive. Finally proper hydration is critical to acclimatization - urine
needs to be almost clear in color.
Q: What kind of gear did you use?
A: I have used the same gear for many years now - lot's of layers
and down. It is always critical to
protect my toes, fingers and face since these are most susceptible
to frost bite.
As for warmth,
I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the
least bit cool - regardless of the outside temp. I use a 3 layer system
of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in the
Mountain Hardware Power Stretch (a Farmer's John kind of suit) or just
my Patagonia Guide Pants depending on how cold it is that day then my top
wind or warmth layer e.g. Patagonia Micro Puff and/or JetStream Shell. When the winds pick up and
the temps hover near 0F, I add my Feather Friends 850 Fill
down jacket plus my mitts. See my gear
page for a complete discussion and my gear list updated in 2009. I am very pleased with all my gear but have a few standouts items.
I note these on my gear page.
Q: Anything new - this time?
A: I switched from a capiline base layer to merino wool. I have
found it to wick faster and stay warmer than capiline. It worked great.
Q: How do you communicate back home?
I used a satellite phone from Thuraya for
my personal use to transmit both voice and data from anywhere on the mountain
as well as during the trek in. The phone works extremely well but I experienced
some surprises with my subscription since the SIM expired two days after I arrived.
I was unaware that this would happen. My service provider (Explorersweb's
Humanedgetech) tried and failed to get it resolved but my wife was able to work
directly with Thuraya to get it renewed. I used a Bgan data only satellite station
for dispatches from ABC. It was faster (128KB vs 9600 baud) but more expensive
than the handset ($11 per mb).
Q: Was
there web site coverage?
A: Yes. On this site on the dispatch
page and on the Project Himalaya site.
Other team members posted Blogs and they are listed on Jamie's site.
Q: Which
route is most popular?
A: The North ridge from Tibet is the most popular. The Swiss-Polish
route on the South Face is the other common route but this is extremely dangerous
and where Lowe and Bridges were killed by avalanche. Remember
that it actually has two summits: the fore-summit (Central Summit) and the
true summit (Main Summit) which is another 3 meters (12 feet) higher but requires
a traverse of a knife edge ridge or a circuitous route from the Central Summit
Ridge to reach it.
Q: How long will it take?
A: A week or more to get to base camp, 4 weeks on the mountain
and a few days to get back to Kathmandu or Lhasa. Count on 6 to 7 weeks
total.
Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: The costs can range from $9,000 to $20,000 depending
on who you use. If you use a logistics company only, you cut the highest cost by
a third perhaps. See my Guide page for more details.
Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: As of 2008, the rules have drastically changed. The Chinese
now require climbing permits to be issued after 5 days upon arrival in
Kathmandu (or Lhasa, I assume). The entire team must be present. Another
permit must be issued by the Chinese military at a post near Tingri. There
may be other new requirements that are revealed so make sure you climb
with an operator with experience with these new rules to prevent delays
and disappointment.
Q: Do I really need a guide for Shishapangma?
A: You will need help getting a permit and entering Tibet
at a minimum. Once there, It all depends on your skills, money and time
available. Shishapangma is a serious high-altitude climb. Some people
go to Shishapangma without a formal guide and contract with local agencies
for yaks, porters or carry everything themselves but this is probably
not an option anymore. There are few climbers on Shishapangma so you
would probably be alone much of the time. In harsh weather (white-outs)
or in a medical emergency, you will be on your own so consider your skill
level carefully. Climbing alone or in too small of a team is never a
good idea.
Q: Are there local guides for Shishapangma?
A: Yes but the Chinese have made significant changes recently
favoring only Tibetan guides, cooks, porters and staff. You will definitely
need some type of assistance. There are many quality choices based out
of Kathmandu that can help with logistics. Some are less expensive than
traditional Western companies but most charge about the same price. My
usual advice is to get recent references from a climber with a similar
background and skill level as yourself. Get everything in writing. Finally
ask about food, group gear and language skills.
Q: How do you get on an expedition to climb Shishapangma?
A: Most reputable guides ask for your climbing resume and require some
serious climbing experience. Ideally they want to see climbs of Denali or Aconcagua.
But most anyone can get on a Shishapangma commercial expedition these days without
many questions so be careful who you select since you may get caught up in a
mess.
Q: What is involved if I plan my own climb?
A: Basically everything: permits, travel, hotels, food, gear, routes,
communications, emergency contentions - everything. There are local companies
in Katmandu who can provide some services such as getting food or heavy tents
to base camp. And some can provide a Sherpa at low costs. You can save a lot of
money this way but as I said before, consider your skills in the event that something
goes wrong - are you 100% self sufficient? What are your medical skills? HAPE
and HACE are really possibilities on Shishapangma - do you have the proper medicine
and training to deal with it? And a hundred more questions. See my guide
page for more. Again, climbing alone or in small teams is never a good idea.
Saving a few thousand dollars is not worth your life.
Q: Did you summit?
A: No. We got to about 7000m before a huge weather
front hit the mountain - the second in a 2 week period. It basically
shut the mountain down. Only 2 climbers reached the central summit
in 2007 and none to the true summit.
Q: Which route was used?
A: The north ridge route. This is what is considered the "normal" route.
There were four camps established at roughly 18,300', 21,000', 23,000' and
24,600'. The summit is 26,335''. An interim camp named the Depot camp was used
on the early climbs to store gear and for one night. It was at 19,200'. The
route follows the Shishapangma glacier to the Eastern Cwm, up the North Ridge
then traverses the North East face to the summit ridge.
Q: Who ran the expedition?
A: Jamie McGuinness of Project
Himalaya.
Q: What is their history on Shishapangma?
A: Jamie had run three expeditions to Shisha reaching the Central
summit twice. He is based in Kathmandu and uses the same Sherpa team for many
expeditions including Everest and 8000m climbs in Pakistan.
Q: How did Jamie and his team do?
A: The logistics from Kathmandu and Lhasa to and at Advanced
base camp were outstanding with no surprises. The on-mountain leadership
was dependent on each individual since this was not a "guided" climb
with a formal Western Leader or Lead Sherpa (aka Sidar). So there was some
confusion from time to time on who was going where, when. However there was
never a shortage of tents, stoves or fuel at the high camps. Jamie ran the
expedition enabling each climber to be very independent and the team in a
consensus manner. There was minimal direction as to the on-mountain activities.
The food at BC and ABC was excellent. We had freeze dried food at the high
camps and cooked it ourselves.
Q: How many climbers were on the expedition?
A: It was too big. We had two teams of 8 people plus Sherpas,
cooks and kitchen help. There were over 25 in camp. But the team dynamics
were the best I have ever experienced and everyone got along well. All base camps camps were comfortable except for the small 2 person tents at the high
camps. I would not recommend the Mountain Hardware EV-3 tents due to their
narrow size and poor ventilation. However they are lightweight and I never
had to carry one up so I can appreciate the trade-off.
Q: How was
the climbing?
A: The climbing was straightforward. The route to camps 1 and 2 were
on snow slopes that varied in angle. There were some steep sections near the
top of both slopes or just below the camps. The route to the Depot camp followed
the glacier and was sometimes on a sharp angle of loose rock or scree. We had
to cross the glacier and a series of 20 to 30 foot ice spires or Penitentes.
This was a little of a surprise and took 1.5 hours the first time. We had a
few people slip into the icy cold waters but no serious damage was done. The
climb to camp 3 on the Central Summit Ridge was on a steep snow slope that had
avalanche danger. No one even tried it in 2007. From C3 you follow a ridge to
the Central Summit.
Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: We climbed in late September and early October after
the annual monsoon season has ended. So generally it was clear but colder than
in the spring.We had significant more snow than in previous years and thus stopped
all the summit bids from all teams. The winds were strong from time to time and
thus cold.
Q: Did you use bottled oxygen?
A: No, it is not usually used on Shisha.
Q: Would you climb Shisha again?
A: Yes. I really enjoyed the entire expedition and that
part of the Himalaya and Tibet. If I ever did go back I would aim for
the true summit but be pleased with Central. Also I would return with
Project Himalaya.
Bottom Line
Shishapangma is a fantastic climb especially for your first 8000m mountain.
But there are many complications as of 2008 with the new Chinese regulations
and attitude. The actually climbing is enjoyable and satisfying. Seeing Tibet
is educational and inspirational. But if the complications continue to grow,
the Nepal climb of Manaslu may be the best alternative for a first 8000m climb. |
