|
 Hi,
I’m Alan Arnette and welcome to my site. Click
on the site logo above for the latest updates.
If this is your
first visit, welcome. If you are one of the more than one
million visitors each year, a sincere welcome back.
I have three areas of interest: public
speaking, climbing and Alzheimer’s
As a speaker, I am not the traditional inspirational speaker but rather
I combine my career of running global businesses through
the eyes of my mountaineering adventures to get audiences to think about
goals, overcoming obstacles and celebrating life. I also love giving my
Everest for KiDs presentation to children
of all ages.
As a mountaineer, and I use that term loosely, I have been on 20 major
climbs around the world since I started at age 38. I have climbed well
above 6000 meters ten times and Everest three times with my best being
8300m. I have climbed all of Colorado's 14,000' mountains. You can read all the
details on this site.
And for my last area, Alzheimer's Advocate, this is what my life is
all about now. This disease has no cure, impacts over 30 million worldwide
and took two of my aunts plus my mom, Ida, in August, 2009. Today,
my climbing is to raise Alzheimer's awareness and research funds so that
our children’s generation will never experience this robber of memories
and lives.
My site is primarily about climbing with each major climb having a
dedicated section with pictures, videos, and short stories. There are
climbing resources that list my gear, training ideas and links to guides,
web sites and more. The menu on the top-left of this
page is repeated throughout the site so start there or take a look at the mountain
summary below. A good place to start is to compare
the climbs from Rainier to Everest on an easy to read
table.
I retired from a 29 year career in high tech in early
2007. I enjoyed different jobs in several US States and European countries.
My work ranged from sales to marketing to product development to running
worldwide businesses and almost always in a Management role. My other interests
include: photography, animals, business and of course,
my family. My personal philosophy of life has always been one of
balance. I try to put an equal amount of energy into my
work, my family and time for myself.
 My
family is critical to my life. They provide me objectivity,
critique and encouragement. I could not even think about climbing
the Big Hills
without their support. My parents gave me a great foundation
for life. My brother continues with his support as well. Ashley
is the future and Cathy is my rock. I know it sounds corny and I wouldn't
have it any other way.
Animals have always been special to me: from my first Guinea Pig, Ralph,
to my long time friend, Preston a.k.a. Roy, an excellent Lhasa Apso to
my beloved cats Max and Mimi today.
I love all kinds.
Digital cameras changed my life! There are
thousands of images on this site with the majority taken digitally.
I am adding more images and videos all the time. Please visit the Best
Shots page to see some examples of what is on the site.
There
is an editorial section
on business based on my experiences. I try to share these experiences through
a series of essays on management, careers and business in
general and always with a connection to climbing.
I also use this site to raise awareness of Alzheimer’s Disease
and the impact on individuals and their families plus ways you can get
involved before it is too late. To make this as real as I can over the
internet, please visit Memories
are Everything for my personal experience.
I spent most 2007 and early 2008 on a journey
to summit Everest in 2008 plus to raise $25,000 for Alzheimer’s
research: The
Road Back to Mt. Everest. There were four training climbs: Denali, Shishapangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba plus
an Everest attempt in April 2008.
I am currently finalizing a project
to raise $1M for research through climbing the 7 Summits - the highest peak
on each continent. My current partners include The Cure Alzheimer’s Fund, International
Mountain Guides and Outside Magazine.
This site
is not sponsored by any company. These are my personal experiences alone.
My goal is to share my experiences and hope to encourage readers to set
some lofty goals and have a good time trying to reach them.
Climb On!
Alan
|
| When & Where |
MOUNTAIN
click on the mountain
|
|
Pictures & Trip
Reports |
April 2010
California |
|
Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the lower United
States. Denali is the highest in Alaska. I climbed it via the Mountaineer's Route
with a new group of friends. It was a wonderful experience on a worthy route. The
weather was perfect and I admire those who summit in extreme conditions. |
Trip Report, Video and Pictures |
April/May, 2008
Nepal |
|
I returned to Everest in 2008,
to attempt the South side again as part of The
Road Back to Mt. Everest . I had trained hard with four
previous high altitude climbs in the prior 8 months. I felt
great the majority of the climb but felt it was too dangerous
for me to continue and turned back at the Balcony or 27,500'
(8300m) which was 1535 ' short of the highest point on earth.
This was my highest altitude ever reached. I have written an
extensive document on the experiences during this climb as
impacted by the Chinese Olympic torch summit and closure of
the north and heavy restrictions on the south side. It is a
PDF document named
Everest 2008: Mountain
of Politics |
Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
January, 2008
Mexico |
|
Orizaba is the 3rd highest mountain
in North America after Denali and Logon.
This was my last climb on The
Road Back to Mt. Everest before Everest. I climbed with
my good friends Patrick, Robert, Scott and Dave. It was a nice
climb and is a nice introduction to higher altitude climb. |
Dispatches,
Pictures &
Videos |
January, 2008
Argentina |
|
I returned to Aconcagua and summited
again in 2008 as part of my training for The
Road Back to Mount Everest. Please enjoy the dispatches
sent by sat phone directly from the summit! |
2008 Dispatches,
pictures,
videos
FAQ |
Sept/Oct, 2007
Tibet |
|
Shishapangma is the 14th highest
mountain on Earth and the lowest of the 8000m mountains, this
was a climb on The Road
Back to Mt. Everest. Weather conspired to stop all but
two climbers in 2007. I topped out at 7000m or 23,000' in excellent
health and raised some money for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund
- so I was pleased. |
Dispatches, Pictures & Videos,FAQ |
June 2007
Alaska |
|
In 2007, I reached 17,000 before turning back with a mystery
illness. This was a climb on The
Road Back to Mt. Everest. |
Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
June, 2006
Pakistan |
|
This was an expedition to climb
Broad Peak and then to "have a good showing" on K2.
I reached 21,000' on Broad or camp 2 before abandoning the
climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted
on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I
was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I
spent there. I improved my dispatches by sending audio, video
and written dispatches with pictures real time from all over
the mountains. Other than the bug, it was a great trip! |
Dispatches,
Pictures, Videos, FAQ,
K2 Pictures |
February, 2005
Argentina |
|
I summited Aconcagua in February
2005. It was my first climb above 20,000' since Everest in
2003. It is one of the "7 Summits" since it is the highest
mountain in South America.
Please enjoy the dispatches sent by sat phone directly from
the summit! |
2005 Dispatches, pictures,
videos
FAQ |
July, 2004
Washington, US |
|
A nice alpine climb similar to
Mont Blanc or a smaller version of Denali. I summited along
with eight friends in July 2004. We had absolutely perfect
conditions, rare for Rainier, and made the summit in a swift
five hours and twenty minutes from camp Muir. |
Dispatches, Pictures,
FAQ |
July, 2004
Oregon, US |
|
A straight forward US West Coast
volcano complete with some steep slopes to the summit. I summited
Hood with two friends a few days prior to climbing Mt. Rainier.
After spending the past two years on Everest, it was nice to
climb in the U.S. but more importantly to be back in my crampons
and on a rope with good friends. |
Trip Report, Pictures |
April/May, 2003
Nepal |
|
I returned to Everest in 2003,
to attempt the South side again. While it was incredible to
be back only ten months after my 2002 climb, it was a big disappointment
with altitude sickness and weather problems. I knew about halfway
through I would not summit so I reset my goal to go as high
as I could - safely - and reached 27,200' (8250m), the exact
same spot as 2002. |
Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
April/May, 2002
Nepal |
|
In 2002 I attempted Everest using
the Southeast ridge route. This was my most difficult climb
thus far due to the length of the trip, logistics and health.
I reached 27,200' (8250m), a personal record, before turning
back just below the balcony due to a lung infection. It was
a fabulous trip that I never anticipated making when I starting
climbing seven years earlier. |
Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
July, 2001
Alaska
|
|
North America's highest mountain,
Denali was easier than I expected. It was mostly snow slopes
with a few difficult sections above the Basin camp. We reached
Denali pass at 18,200' before extreme weather turned us back. |
Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
Multiple
Colorado |
|
Most of my rock climbing has been
in Colorado. It has proven invaluable to
have rock experience on the 8,000 m peaks. |
Pictures |
October, 2000
Nepal |
|
Maybe my most satisfying climb.
When I first saw it, I never considered climbing Ama Dablam
. Technical climbing with both rock and ice, it was very satisfying
to summit this beautiful mountain in Nepal. This summit gave
me confidence to attempt Everest. |
Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
September, 2000
Wyoming |
|
I wanted more experience with
technical rock climbing before Ama Dablam. I found the Grand
a nice challenge and learned a lot. |
Pictures |
February, 2000, 2004, 2006
Colorado |
|
Technical ice climbing at the
Ouray Ice Park is a special time. Man-made frozen waterfalls
creates a nice environment to learn or improve ice climbing
skills. |
Pictures |
December, 1999
New Zealand |
|
The Milford
Track is called the 'most beautiful walk in the world'.
Cathy and I found it just that as we brought in the millennium. |
Pictures |
July, 1999
Alaska |
Granite Range, St. Ellias
9,566' - 2,915m
|
This was a trip for me to learn
more about technical climbing on rock and ice. Flew to a remote
glacier by Paul Klaus of Ultima Thule. |
No |
September, 1998
Tibet |
|
My first 8,000m peak. I climbed
it from Tibet. A 5 week expedition, Cho Oyu is the world's
6th tallest mountain. I reached 26,600' (8,060m) before turning
back. It was a learning experience that I never forgot. |
Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ |
July, 1998
June, 1998
July, 1995
France |
|
Similar to Denali without all
the logistical difficulties but Mont Blanc can be deadly. I
used it as training for Cho Oyu. It is the highest peak in
Europe and France and my first true snow summit in '95. |
Pictures,FAQ |
March, 1998
Switzerland |
Monta Rosa (Dufourspitze)
15,203' - 4,633m
|
The highest peak in Switzerland,
used in training for Cho Oyu |
No |
July, 1997
Greenland |
|
Family vacation with icebergs,
midnight sun, dog sleds and more. |
Pictures |
April, 1997
Nepal |
|
My first trip to Nepal and the
Khumbu. it was three weeks of trekking in Mt.
Everest's Khumbu region. I saw Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and
Everest for the first time on this trip. It was also my first
exposure to the special charm of the Sherpa people.
|
Pictures |
August, 1995
France |
Tour Ronde
12,456' - 3,796m
|
A semi-technical mountain near
Chamonix, it was my first real experience with technical mixed
climbing |
No |
August, 1995
France |
Le
Buet
11,678' - 3,559m
|
A small peak near Mont Blanc,
it was my first climb in the Alps. |
No |
February, 1995
Argentina |
 Fitz Roy |
A two week trek around Patagonia ,
I went to the Fitz Roy and Cierro Torri base camps. I still
think this has to be the last unspoiled area on Earth. |
Pictures |
March, 1994
New Zealand |
|
My first big trip. I 'tramped'
the Routbourn and Capels tracks and did my first Bungyjump. My
favorite country on the Planet. |
Pictures |
|
FAQs |
August 2010
Colorado |
|
My last 14er. A great summit climb with class 4 exposure |
Trip Report, Pictures, Video |
August 2010
Colorado |
|
Nice rocky ridge climb with a few moves a complex
summit |
Trip Report, Pictures |
August 2010
Colorado |
|
A very fun class 3 climb made interesting with a long
narrow catwalk |
Trip Report, Pictures, Video |
August 2010
Colorado |
|
A very fun class 3 climb made interesting with a long
narrow catwalk |
Trip Report, Pictures, Video |
July 2010
Colorado |
|
Excellent class 3/4 rock climbing via the North Buttress
to Diente and Traverse to Wilson. Final climb to the summit is a lot of fun |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
July 2010
Colorado |
|
Excellent class 3/4 rock climbing via the North Buttress
to Diente and Traverse to Wilson. The North Buttress offers a good alternative to
the normal scree route |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
May 2010
Colorado |
|
One of the toughest 14ers but
very attainable with winter snow. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
September 2009
Colorado |
|
A deceiving climb that looks harder
than it is for the 4th tallest 14er |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
September 2009
Colorado |
|
A simple talus and scree climb
in the Sangre de Cristo rage |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
September 2009
Colorado |
|
This defines class 4 climbing
in Colorado. The Knife Edge on the summit ridge makes
it even more interesting. Absolutely one of the best 14er experiences. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
September 2009
Colorado |
|
A remote 14er in the Elk range.
Enjoyed climbing the S-Ridge up; not the 2000' scree climb
down! |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
August 2009
Colorado |
|
One of the most difficult and
dangerous 14ers. A very satisfying summit experience. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
August 2009
June 2010
Colorado |
|
Not one of the official 54 but
a nice easy climb in the Elk range and still a 14er! |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
July 2009
Colorado |
|
Very remote with a nice rock
scramble to the true summit. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
July 2009
Colorado |
|
Worthy of a climb just because
it is near Ouray, a nice scree scramble with a surprise near
the top. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
July 2009
Colorado |
|
A beautifully remote walk-up with
a stunning approach lined with beaver ponds. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
June 2009
June 2010
Colorado |
|
A true mountain climb
nestled in the Elk range. Summited via the North Face
Couloir in whiteout conditions during a June snowstorm |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
September 2008
Colorado |
|
An easy, short Colorado 14er with
amazing views from the summit. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
September 2008
July 2010
Colorado |
|
One of the tougher Colorado 14er
requiring Class 4 rock climbing to the summit. Traversed from Peak
to Needle in 2010, exceptional experience. |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
August 2008
Colorado |
|
The only 14er on private land
this peak is alone and pristine deep in southern Colorado |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
August 2008
Colorado |
|
A Colorado 14er offering some
great class 3/4 rock climbing near the summit |
Trip Report, Pictures, video |
July 2008
Colorado |
|
Challenging rock climbing
near the top makes for a satisfying climb. |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
July 2008
Colorado |
|
Stunning green basins
below this butte-like peak. |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
July 2008
Colorado |
|
The American Basin
trailhead is the best part of this short and very easy walkup.
Need 4WD to get there. |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
July 2008
Colorado |
|
Cross a 1.5 mile saddle
from Redcloud to reach Sunshine. A little work but a great
payoff with wonderful views |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
July 2008
Colorado |
|
An easy walk-up with
great views in the basins. Go in the middle of the summer for
the wildflowers |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
June 2008
Colorado |
|
A little remote but
with trailhead off paved road. Beautiful approach to the mountain
itself. |
Trip Report,
pictures, video |
June 2008
Colorado |
|
Tough 4WD road to get
to high trailhead. More of a road hike than something remote. |
Trip Report,
pictures, video |
August 2007
Colorado |
|
A climb with character
adjacent to Challenger |
Trip Report,
pictures, video |
August 2007
Colorado |
|
A spectacular approach
via Willow Lake and then a short and steep climb to the ridge |
Trip Report,
pictures, video |
July 2007
Colorado |
|
An enjoyable climb
that is easier than it looks |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
July 2007
Colorado |
|
An arduous hike when
done from any route ... |
Trip Report, Pictures |
May 2007
Colorado |
|
A highly enjoyable
late winter snow climb up the north face. |
Trip Report, Pictures,
Videos |
August 2006
Colorado |
|
A rewarding climb using
the less popular southeast ridge route. Had a little snow,
rain, hot and cold! |
Trip Report, pictures |
August 2006
Colorado |
|
Adjacent to Shavano,
we climbed Tab via the saddle and were rewarded with nice views
of Shav. |
Trip
Report, pictures, video |
August 2006
Colorado |
|
A nice 14er start starts
steep and ends steep with great views of the Arkansas Valley |
Trip
Report, pictures, video |
April 2006
April 2007
Colorado |
|
The normal class 1
Barr Trail route was slightly more difficult in the early spring
snows. A long but satisfying climb. In 2007, my partners and
I traversed Pikes from west to east. Along, long day with an
appreciated night at Barr camp on the east slopes. |
Trip Report,
Pictures |
October 2005
Colorado |
|
Probably the easiest
14er in Colorado but interesting with all the ghost mine towns
around |
Trip Report,
Pictures,
Videos |
September 2005
Colorado |
|
An interesting 14er
with something for every climber |
Trip Report, Pictures,Videos |
August 2005
July 2010
Colorado
|
|
One of the most difficult
14ers. Traversed from Peak
to Needle in 2010, exceptional experience. |
Trip Report,
Pictures,
Videos |
August 2005
Colorado |
|
A short and easy walk-up
with some surprises on the last 500 ' |
Trip Report,
Pictures,Videos |
July 2005
Colorado |
|
One of Colorado's
four classic fourteener traverses between the Maroon Bells,
this was long and sometimes difficult requiring rock climbing
experience. A wonderfully satisfying climb! |
Trip Report,
Pictures,
Videos |
June 2005
Colorado |
|
A very easy 14er
with great views of 30 14ers plus the Arkansas Valley |
Trip Report,
pictures,
video |
June 2005
July 2007
Colorado |
|
An enjoyable climb
through a nice remote basin. A nice ridge connects to Mount
Columbia. Climbed the traverse to Mt. Columbia on July 2007.
Very long day. |
Trip Report,
pictures,video |
May 2005
Colorado |
|
A straightforward
14er with great views! |
Trip Report, pictures, video |
May 2005
Colorado |
|
One of the easiest
14ers but steep with 4560' gain in just 4 miles |
Trip Report, pictures, video |
June 2004
Colorado |
|
The highest series
of 14er summits in the US |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
June 2004
Colorado |
|
An easy 14er but
the Chicago Lakes route is challenging. |
Trip Report, pictures,
video |
May 2004
Colorado |
|
One of the easiest
14ers |
Trip Report, pictures, video |
May 2004
July 2007
Colorado |
|
An easy 14er but
snow covered in early May |
Trip Report, pictures |
June, 2003
Colorado |
|
Great summit - small
and sharp like it should be! Adjacent peak to Grays. |
Trip Report, Pictures |
June, 2003
Colorado |
|
Simple trekking peak |
Trip Report, Pictures |
September 1994
Colorado |
|
A simple Colorado 14er adjacent
to Mt. Democrat |
Trip Report |
September 1994
Colorado |
|
Another Colorado 14er. It is
adjacent to Mt. Lincoln |
Trip Report |
September 1994
Colorado |
|
A trekking peak in the Rockies. |
Trip Report |
September 1994
Colorado |
|
The highest peak in Colorado yet
not difficult at all, just a long day. |
Trip Report |
Colorado
Most recently in July 2010 via the Lamb's Slide
Route |
|
My local 14er, Longs Peak serves
as a great training climb throughout the year. There are many
routes ranging from moderate to extremely technical. It almost
killed me in 1992 but is a nice day climb today!
I have climbed on Longs over 70 times, summited 21 via the
Cable, Lamb's Slide, Loft and Keyhole routes. |
Trip Report, Pictures,
Video, FAQ |
|
|
