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  • K2 Summer 2022: Behind the Scenes Report

    K2 Summer 2022: Behind the Scenes Report

    K2 climbers are back home, and some are writing detailed reports on their experience. One that caught my eye was from American Eric Gilbertson as he described his no O’s, unsupported summits on K2 and Broad Peak with Danish climber Andreas Ritzau Frydensberg.

    Meanwhile, there have been a few more summits in the Karakorum, but the mountain conditions are getting dangerous each day as the temperatures warm and moisture moves in. But, somehow, climbers continue to roll the dice. I hope their luck keeps up.

    Big Picture

    One of the topics from this summer’s Karakorum season has been the number of support the client climbers have needed, given their experience, and now about trash left on K2 allegedly from the large commercial teams. With somewhere around 200 summits on K2 and many on the other Pakistani 8000ers, 2022 was a season of excess: permits, inexperience, trash, and, yes, summits.

    I’ve written for years about inexperienced clients, but, honestly, I never thought I’d be writing about them en mass on K2. But as I keep saying, times are a changn’.

  • K2 Summer 2022: A Great Year for Women Climbers

    K2 Summer 2022: A Great Year for Women Climbers

    The summer 2022 season was fantastic for female climbers. Records were set individually plus the total number who made it to the top, 24.  Courtesy of Karrar Haidr, Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan, for this year’s list

  • K2 Summer 2022: Chasing Records

    K2 Summer 2022: Chasing Records

    Summits continue but mostly for the record seekers. The mainstream press has picked up on the K2 crowds. It’s Everest all over again. Let the hand wringing begin!

    Big Picture

    Without a doubt, the summer of 2022 will go down as when things changed in Pakistan’s Karakorum. Thus far, there are around 200 summits on K2, dwarfing the previous record year in 2018 of 62. Also, we saw at least ten women summit, also smashing any pretense of a “female curse” on K2. I estimate somewhere between 25 and 30 women have now summited K2.

    We also saw multiple commercial teams use extensive Pakistan and Nepai support resources to fix lines, establish and stock camps with supplemental oxygen that allowed climbers, who in previous years would never have considered K2, not only to attempt it but summit, some without O’s.

    I’m seeing many articles in the press about K2, quoting expedition leaders who talk about crowds, rockfall, dangerous conditions, too many people on the route at one time, and some now marketing other routes on K2 as safer. There is a reason the Abruzzi is the most used route on K2. But this generation of operators has a risk tolerance, they would say they are better climbers, which is different than the old timers, and in some cases, they have been correct. As I’ve said many times this season, times are a changin.

  • K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 30, 2022 - A Summer of Summits

    K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 30, 2022 – A Summer of Summits

    And the summits keep going with many firsts, records, and races to the top thanks to this summer’s, and for that fact, this spring’s, unusually stable weather across the Himalayas. It’s not uncommon for climbers to have three, four, or even five, or more 8000er summits this year. Let’s run a few down with more to come before it’s all over.

    Big Picture

    The season is winding down. I think the action is over on Nanga Parbat. The snow conditions were getting too dangerous a couple of weeks ago, and several highly skilled and experienced climbers abandoned their efforts. On Gasherbrum II, there are a few climbers, mostly the record seekers, still to make attempts, the same for Gasherbrum I.

    Several K2 climbers are moving to Broad Peak to attempt their double. And on K2, you never know for sure, but I think it will be quiet until winter when someone will try. Well over 90% of the K2 summits occur in July. Still, some seep into mid-August, and there have been a couple in October, but that was decades ago when the weather was much different.

    Note, expect the same for Everest – a winter, no O’s, perhaps with a “solo” label even though attached to a commercial team for logistics. Life has become interesting, and I’m not sure in a good way.

    This year, 2022, the weather has been good overall. Occasionally, heavy snow storms have offered challenges to teams, but on the whole, most people will not claim they didn’t summit because of bad weather. As of July 30, I estimate 190 K2 summits and three deaths or 1.6%. I have reached out to Pakistani Officials for an official count.

  • K2 Summer 2022: Summits Continue on Broad Peak and K2

    K2 Summer 2022: Summits Continue on Broad Peak and K2

    With decent weather, climbers continue to summit K2, GII, and Broad Peak; some are Sherpa races while others are nice old-school with no Os and no support. Some of the early summiteers talk about the problems of so many people on K2.

  • K2 Summer 2022: Deaths on Broad Peak and K2

    K2 Summer 2022: Deaths on Broad Peak and K2

    After what had been a relatively safe season in this summer’s Karakorum region, we see more deaths on K2 and Broad Peak.

    CTV News Channel out of Montreal, Canada, reports that Canadian Richard Cartier, 60, and Australian Matt Eakin of Australia died on K2. They were part of a small team using Adventure Pakistan Treks and Expedition logistics.

Welcome to The Blog on alanarnette.com

 

Alan Arnette

Welcome to The Blog on alanarnette.com, home for Alan Arnette’s expedition dispatches,  coverage of the Everest seasons plus news on climbing, and Alzheimer’s. If you are one of my 3 million visitors, a sincere welcome back. Visit the About page for information on this site.

My work is dedicated to those with Alzheimer’s Disease and my mom, Ida Arnette, who died on August 16, 2009, from Alzheimer’s. Your donations to one of the selected Alzheimer’s non-profits go 100% goes to the non-profits, none ever to me.

My site’s climbing content has dedicated sections for each of my major climbs including a trip report, FAQs, pictures, videos, and short stories. There are climbing resources that list my gear, training ideas, links to guides, and website links. A good resource is to compare the climbs from Rainier to Everest or the 7 Summits in easy-to-read tables.

Summit Coach

If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, I can help. Summit Coach is my consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 20+ years of high-altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive.

Climbing:

  • Oldest and 18th American to summit K2 on July 27, 2014, at age 58
  • Four Everest climbs, summited on May 21, 2011
  • Summited 7 of the 8 “7 Summits” between November 2010 and October 2011
  • 36 major climbs around the world since starting at age 38
  • Climbed well above 6000 meters over 13 times
  • Climbed all of Colorado’s 58 14,000′ mountains
  • Rock and ice climb as skills training for my alpine routes

Professional Speaking:

  • Acclaimed Keynote Speaker
  • Speaks frequently to Alzheimer’s Conferences
  • International Events
  • Presentations on Leadership, Advocacy, and for KiDs

Alzheimer’s causes:

  • Works closely with several non-profits
  • Met with multiple members of Congress
  • Raised a significant amount of money for research
  • Appeared on live television, radio plus print, and online media

Mountaineering Storyteller

Outside Magazine noted that I was “one of the world’s most respected chroniclers of Everest.”

I am honored to be a member of the Explorers Club and the American Alpine Club

Climb On!
Alan
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