Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
  • Everest 2022: Team Locations and Headlines

    Everest 2022: Team Locations and Headlines

    Welcome to the 2022 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013, and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.

  • Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 22 - The Season That Won't End

    Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 22 – The Season That Won’t End

    This Everest season is like a runny nose that won’t stop. You blow hard, wipe it clean, and all of a sudden, there it goes again. Just as I thought base camp was empty, as well as the other 8000ers, people keep showing up at the South Col and summiting. I guess with winds so calm (relatively – there are still those moments) that leaders are demonstrating great patience and trust in the weather forecasters to let the route clear out before taking their peeps higher. And that’s how it’s supposed to be done. 

    More Summits!

    We have a few more summits to report as it seems the wind has picked back up but was still manageable last night. We’ll see how the week develops.

    Pemba Sherpa of 8K Expeditions texted me that Norweigan Kristin Harila made the fastest link ever for males or females between Everest and Lhotse along with Dawa Ongju Sherpa. They summited Everest on May 22 at 8:45 am and then Lhotse at 5:50 pm – that’s 9:05 apart. Now she’s on to Makalu base camp by helicopter. She is trying to set a record for summiting all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks in the fastest time. Pemba tells me they will ask for an entry exception to climb Shishapangma in China. And they will climb Cho Oyu from Nepal. Thus far this season, she has summited Kanchenjunga on May 14, Dhaulagiri on May 8, and Annapurna I on April 28.

    Another one we have been waiting for is German David Göttler, who summited Everest this morning. He climbed about as clean as possible these days with no O’s and no other human support other than using the fixed lines and ladders installed by the Sherpas. He summited on May 21.

  • Everest 2022: Summit Wave 10 - Recap

    Everest 2022: Summit Wave 10 – Recap

    This rare month of almost no winds on the summit of Everest has made for one of the calmest, smoothest, quietest seasons in history. Compared to the 2019 mess, this year is how it should be. But of course, the guides and climbers had nothing to do with it; all gratitude goes to Mother Nature. More summits Saturday morning.

    But it has come at a cost. Northern India stills suffer from the unbearable heat, all brought on by climate change. We can expect to see this highly variable weather across all the world’s mountains, Time to adjust to a new normal.

  • Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 - Recap

    Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 – Recap

    OK, it’s about time to stick in the fork and see if it’s done! We still have climbers on Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and  Nuptse, but they are pretty lonely as most teams are back in Kathmandu or even sleeping in their own beds tonight. All these folks need to get up and out as I’m getting nervous that this weather window will slam shut.

  • Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9

    Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9

    OK, it’s about time to stick in the fork and see if it’s done! We still have climbers on Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and  Nuptse, but they are pretty lonely as most teams are back in Kathmandu or even sleeping in their own beds tonight. All these folks need to get up and out as I’m getting nervous that this weather window will slam shut.

  • Everest 2022: Summit Wave 8 Recap

    Everest 2022: Summit Wave 8 Recap

    I may have to start using scientific notation for numbering the summits wave. We are now at number eight. In 2018, there were 11 consecutive days, and in 2019, only three. I’m expecting a pretty low number of summits this morning, but I’m always surprised.

    Yet another day of manageable winds, albeit Madison Mountaineering is reporting that it is a bit breezy at Camp 3 tonight, May 18th. This spike was in the forecast. They appear to be targeting Friday morning for their summit, which could be one of the last this season.

    Alpine Ascents Int. is currently on the summit push from the South Col where they spent two nights. It’s unclear if there are many other teams with them, as most have cleared out already. There are probably a couple of Nepali outfits there.

  • Everest 2022: Summit Wave 7 - Recap

    Everest 2022: Summit Wave 7 – Recap

    Wave Seven!, Yes, Tuesday will perhaps see wave seven depending on the winds.  At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 396 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Tuesday, depending on the winds. They are forecasted to gust to 45mph/70 kph on Monday night. By my count, there are around 40 to 60 people left to summit.

    7 Summits Club is on their summit push aiming for Tuesday morning, May 18. No updates as of this post.  Alpine Ascents Int. is at the South Col where they are spending the night and will target May 18. And Madison Mountaineering seems pleased to hold out at Camp2 for a few more days.

  • Everest 2022: Summit Wave 6 - Recap

    Everest 2022: Summit Wave 6 – Recap

    Believe it or not, Everest keeps on coming on with day five. Some with huge numbers and large support ratios. At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 388 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Monday morning.

Welcome to The Blog on alanarnette.com

 

Alan ArnetteFollow Alan Arnette’s, Legendary Everest Season Coverage. 2022 is Happening Now

Welcome to The Blog on alanarnette.com, home for Alan Arnette’s expedition dispatches,  coverage of the Everest seasons plus news on climbing, and Alzheimer’s. If you are one of my 3 million visitors, a sincere welcome back. Visit the About page for information on this site.

My work is dedicated to those with Alzheimer’s Disease and my mom, Ida Arnette, who died on August 16, 2009, from Alzheimer’s. Your donations to one of the selected Alzheimer’s non-profits go 100% goes to the non-profits, none ever to me.

My site’s climbing content has dedicated sections for each of my major climbs including a trip report, FAQs, pictures, videos, and short stories. There are climbing resources that list my gear, training ideas and links to guides, web sites links. A good resource is to compare the climbs from Rainier to Everest or the 7 Summits in easy-to-read tables.

Summit Coach

If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2, I can help. Summit Coach is my consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 20+ years of high altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive.

Climbing:

  • Oldest and 18th American to summit K2 on July 27, 2014, at age 58
  • Four Everest climbs, summited on May 21, 2011
  • Summited 7 of the 8 “7 Summits” between November 2010 and October 2011
  • 36 major climbs around the world since starting at age 38
  • Climbed well above 6000 meters over 13 times
  • Climbed all of Colorado’s 58 14,000′ mountains
  • Rock and ice climb as skills training for my alpine routes

Professional Speaking:

  • Acclaimed Keynote Speaker
  • Speaks frequently to Alzheimer’s Conferences
  • International Events
  • Presentations on Leadership, Advocacy and for KiDs

Alzheimer’s causes:

  • Works closely with several non-profits
  • Met with multiple members of Congress
  • Raised a significant amount of money for research
  • Appeared on live television, radio plus print and online media

Mountaineering Storyteller

Outside Magazine noted that I was “one of the world’s most respected chroniclers of Everest.”

I am honored to be a member of the Explorers Club and the American Alpine Club

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Recent Posts

Alzheimer's

See all posts

Climbing News

See all posts

Everest 2021 Coverage

See all posts

Everest News

See all posts

Everest Popular Posts

See all posts

K2 2021 Coverage

See all posts

Musings

See all posts