2009
Climbers
partial list with Blogs
- Alec Turner
- Adrian
Ballinger
- Bill Burke
- Billi
Bierling
- Bruce
Parker
- Bud
Allen
- Chris
Dovell
- Christophe
Vandaele
- David
Tait
- Eugene
Constant
- Gilad Stern
- Ian Rogers
- Johnny & Brain
Strange
- John
Golden
- Lance Fox
- Mike
Farris
- Michael
Morales
- Nic
Cunningham
- Megan
Delehanty
- Robby Kojetin
- Scott Parazynski
- Tomsky Arnold
- Valerio Massimo
- Wendy Booker
- Yuri Pritzker
South Col
Lhotse Face
Western Cwm & C1
Khumbu Icefall
Everest Base Camp
Trekking to Base Camp
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Updated May 31, 2004 - Final -2005 to come!!!
It's over. 2004 Spring Everest is in the history books. The Sherpas who tended
the ice fall are back in their villages, the porters are working for trekkers,
not climbers on Everest, and the Khumbu has a quiet feeling as the monsoon season
begins. And it has been another season for the record books.
Over 150 climbers reached the summit on all routes, 99 on May 16 and 17 alone!.
Using a summit (not attempts) ratio of clients: guides: sherpas of 5:2:8 this
would imply that 50 summiteers were clients, 20 guides and 80 Sherpas. By far,
Sherpas have summited Everest more than any other category of climber. The most
sought out Sherpas have summited 5 or more times and know the routes, conditions
and how to deal with Westerners. I would estimate that 80% of Sherpas and Guides
have summited before so that would imply that there were 70 new summits this
season.
The most impressive climb was, without question, the Russians who climbed a new
route on the North Face. Then there was the Chilean team who were the first summit
with Brit, Annabelle Bond. While I did not cover this expedition in detail, looking
at Annabelle's website,
it is clear that sex-appeal has made it's way to Everest way beyond "making sauce".
There was another speed record this season. Pemba Dorji Sherpa, 26, made his
way from base camp to the summit in a record 8 hours and 10 minutes. Pemba;s calim was not suported with any evidence and his record was taken away by the Nepal Supreme Court in 2017.
This is
real in that he takes every step without aid. He does have support at every camp
to provide him with food and water thus preventing him from carrying the normal
loads. In 2003, I was passed on his way down by Sherpa, Lakpa Gheylu who did
the trip in 10 hours and 46 minutes. He was almost running while carrying a small
pennant. He was clearly excited and had plenty of energy to spare. While this
may seem like a folly, it translates into steady work for these Sherpas and thus
a better life for their families.
The commercial expeditions who host most of the non-professional climbers were
well represented. Alpine Accents, Himalayan Experience, Adventure Consultants
and others all put clients on the summit. Then there were the single or small
teams like RAF Atkins and the Mexico/Canada expedition. Without the leverage
of 7 or more teammates, they made their way up the Hill and stood on top of the
World! Well done, well done.
As for my best moment of 2004, it is a tie between Adventure Consultants patience,
Dave D'Angelo's videos and the Mexico/Canada no O's attempt. AC sat at the South
Col for three nights waiting for the weather to clear. Past expeditions have
been rushed, but this team showed incredible, more than would be expected, patience.
They used valuable oxygen waiting out the weather and then ... they summited.
A great performance! Dave demonstrated incredible technology (and personal focus)
with his fantastic video on his North Side summit. The Mexico/Canada started
off strong being the first team to C3. The had some of the most revealing dispatches
and ended up with some on the summit, some in trouble and some helping those
in trouble. This was Everest at it's best and hardest.
The season was not without tragedy and controversy. At least seven climbers died
this year, more than in the past several years. Ropes were removed on the North
side while climbers still needed them. Oxygen bottles were thrown down the North
Face endangering the Russian climbers. And the search for Mallory and Irvine's
camera turned up short, as far as we know. Death, politics and dreams unfilled.
This is what Everest is all about.
But the Russian accomplishment cannot be topped. I am stunned by their strength,
courage and teamwork. This is one for the history books.
So that is it for 2004. I have thoroughly enjoyed covering Everest from my Colorado
home. If you have any comments or suggestions, please contact me.
I plan on covering Everest 2005 so I hope to see
you in about 10 months!
Updated May 30, 2004
The Russians have made it!!. Clearly the most
significant event of this Spring climbing season on any mountain, this
incredible team established the first new route in 20 years on Everest.
They climbed the wall on the North Face - direct. Lot's has been written
so I thought I would try to find out, in those immortal words of Butch
in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid: "Who are those guys?"
Their web site has a short bio on each climber plus a great
interview with, Jury Ermachek, prior to the climb. It fairly well tracked what
happened. Reading the climbing resumes of the team members, I was struck by the
difficulty and remoteness of their climbs. No "standard" routes for them! While
even the normal routes are dangerous and difficult on 8,000m mountains, these
guys have the required experience to take on the North Face in the style they
did.
Updated May 29, 2004
The final story for Everest 2004 remains the Russians on the North side.
They are doing, arguably, the most difficult route on Everest - the central North
Face. According to a satphone call into ExplorersWeb they are at 8600 meters and experiencing
hard rock that their pitons cannot penetrate. A small group spent the night with
no tents, just their down suits.
For many people, this expedition is the poster child for climbing. Big men in
down suits with heavy boots taking a step and pounding a sharp spike (piton)
into a rock wall. They attach a oval shaped metal ring (carabiner) to the piton
and then put drive their spiked boots (crampons) a little higher protected only
by a thin nylon rope attached to the pitons. Step by step, they make progress.
Hopefully they will summit today or tomorrow.
I have enjoyed many of the dispatches this year but there were some great pictures
as well. And now that most expeditions have returned to the land of fast Internet
connections, there are some very nice ones posted. The Mexico/Canada site
has some of the best Hillary
Step pictures. You can see how little snow there is this year on the step.
The Irish Expedition has some nice summit
shots. The Algonquin College expedition have a sprawling variety of expedition shots in a creative format.
My top vote for 2004 goes to ExplorersWeb (Mt.
Everest.net) and Dave D'Angelo's multiple videos from his North
Side summit climb. It is a remarkable series of sharply edited footage matched
with head bobbing rap music that results in a fast paced approach. These are
not your normal climbing videos. Well done Dave!
Updated May 27, 2004
The big news is that the last of the South Side expeditions, Adventure Consultants, have put three clients on the
summit along with one guide and five Sherpas. The first group summited about
10:15 in the morning after spending a few days waiting out high winds on the
South Col. This was true determination matched with incredible planning and experience.
Since most permits on the Nepal side demand you are off the mountain by June
1, the AC team was working against weather, politics and the harsh conditions
above 8,000 meters. My hat is off to Guy and his team for taking a different
approach that, in my opinion, resulted in one of the best successes in years.
Good on ya' AC!!
Samantha O'Carroll, part of the firtst summit group with AC, is now the sixth
Irish woman to summit. Another notable result was from Anthony Baldry who now
has the seven summits under his belt. I was on a climb with Anthony last year.
On the North, the Russians are playing a slightly different game since their
permit has different conditions but they must obey the same weather gods. Thus
they are not going for it today but will soon.
Meanwhile, our friends over at Mt.
Everest.net are celebrating one of their own, Dave D'Angelo's summit. Dave
made it to the top in good style. He reports that he carried a video camera but
didn't use it given his cold hands. Hey, it's OK Dave you gave us all some of
the best real-time video in years. Now just get off the hill and come home safe.
A final dispatch from RAF Atkins (one of my favorites this year this this
was his third attempt and he made it!) describes his battle coming down from
the summit as he ran out of oxygen. Ted writes with complete honesty and illustrates
how dangerous climbing without oxygen can be - especially when you don't plan
for it
Updated May 26, 2004
Well, best laid plans on both sides of the Mountain have been halted by high
winds. The Russians are ready for their final push on the wall to the summit
and Adventure Consultants is hunkering down at the South Col for another day.
While, there situation is not rare it is not desirable since living at 8,000m
is temporary at best.
In 2003, we spent two nights at C4 before our summit attempt. At that altitude,
you do not want to eat. You simply do not have an appetite. Putting something
as simple as a Pop Tart in your mouth sometimes creates an involuntary gag response.
Oatmeal and Cup-o-Soup are popular items. The Sherpas are continiously melting
ice and shot drinks. Staying hydrated is the number one priority.
And then there is sleeping. First, there are four people in a three person tent
so it is very cramped. With no room to move when you lay down, claustrophobia
is a common feeling. Usually, the climbers are using bottled oxygen in very low
flow rates - 1 liter an hour. Thus helps with the altitude but only compensates
a few thousand feet so it feels like 23,000'. Finally, any sleep is short with
frequent interruptions from tentmates moving, winds pounding the tent or simply
being too tired to sleep.
All in all, not the ideal set up for an 18 hour climb of your life! But these
are experienced expeditions and will ensure all the climbers are ready to go
when the time comes. And sometimes, this will mean going down not up.
Updated May 25, 2004
Another excellent weekend for Everest summitters on both sides. First, on
the north, Russell Brice's HimEx expedition put 30 climbers on the summit.
They went in two teams and the total spilt was 13 clients, 12 Sherpas and 4
guides. Of significance was Russell's decision to redirect 3 of his Sherpas
to assist climbers in difficulty. This is a true mark of leadership for any
expedition but for Russell this has almost become a standard event year in
year out. He seems to "take care" of all the climbers on his North Side.
While I am positive he does not plan for this, he does not hesitate to give
assistance regardless of the reason for the trouble. It is interesting to note
that the major commercial expedition companies such as Himalayan Experience,
Adventure Consultants, International Mountain Guides, Alpine Ascents International
and others have a semi-formal agreement to give aid to one another at any time.
This is yet another reason to go with a professional guide if you choose to
use a guide service.
Unfortunationally for Adventure peaks, they aborted their summit bid and Kevin
Donovan gave up his attempt. They report doing this to assist climbers in need
as well. Oath 7 climber Dan Lochner has a sobering report of
his north side summit, a must read.
On the South, AAI put 7 clients, 8 Sherpas, and 3 guides on the top. One comment
I found interesting was "...It's now midnight, and Lama Geshe seems to be right
in saying this is an auspicious day to climb." The Lamas normally select one
or two "auspicious" days each season. This is a day that was blessed and favorable
for a summit. Vern Tejas had mentioned many times that this was a strong team
and their times proved that out with a summit at 9:00 AM and back in C4 by
1:30 PM.
The last large team is Adventure Consultants and as of the last night, their
web site reports them at C4. With all their preparation this year (going down
valley, a few extra nights at C2) I am optimistic that they will have a great
summit, weather permitting.
With all the activity settling down, I will do a recap and some final comments
around the speed record this week and then, 2004 is over.
Updated May 21, 2004
Some disturbing news of death on Everest the past two days. Ben of Algonquin College expedition reports about the news
on the South. Also there are reports of deaths on the North. These reports are
always handled carefully since misinformation is very, very common about trouble
on Everest. It seems that rumors spread quickly and with all the languages and
cultures, accurate data is difficult to determine. Also, when there is a death,
there is a huge sensitivity to family and not wanting to preempt proper notification.
Most of the South Side summiters are not sending dispatches since after a summit
or an attempt all they want to do is sleep, eat and speak with their families.
But there are some good ones out there. Ed Viesturs reports about losing his
appetite at altitude. And the Irish team
reports on their trip back to BC.
The weather has been tough the last few days even causing the strong Russians
to hunker down. But it looks like a window is emerging this weekend and we can
expect several attempts on both sides. Of course on the South are AAI and AC,
the last two major teams of the season, waiting at Camp 2. They continue to take
their time and be careful with new snow fall. On the North in HimEx's huge team
and some smaller ones like AdventurePeaks.
Back to the deaths for a moment. Climbing these big mountains is an upfront decision,
obviously. Most climbers have carefully considered the risks and accepted the
gamble. In modern times, Everest is a relatively safe mountain as long as climbers
are in good fitness, use oxygen and go with competent Sherpas. But even with
these precautions, impossible situations arise and climbers get into trouble.
Usually, there are two reactions to these tragedies. First, the one of people
not familiar with climbing who ask why someone would put themselves into such
dangerous situations just to stand on top of a mountain. Then there are those
who have a clear understanding of living life to the fullest and accepting the
risks that come along.
Either viewpoint does not help the families left behind. Hopefully they can understand
that their loved ones died living life as they saw it. Every person I have ever
met on Everest and other mountains did not want to die. They did not want to
leave their families behind. All they wanted to do is to try to climb a hard
mountain, do their best and come home. Sadly, this is not always the case.
Updated May 19
Dr. Clare has become the first Irish to summit Everest and by all accounts she
did it in style. According to their reports they left Camp 4 late the previous
night and made the summit at 6:45 AM. To put this in context Ed Viesteurs reported
almost an identical time for their summit climb. Most climbers leave about 10:00
PM and arrive about 9:00 AM. Anyway, Congrats to Dr. Dr Clare O’Leary on
becoming the fir st Irish woman
to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
On another note, Tom Masterson of the Mexico/Canada team is back at base camp.
He had some trouble just below the South Summit and needed Dex and the assistance
of his team mates to get down safely. Reports are that he is depressed about
this turn of events. This is understandable for someone who attempted the highest
peak on Earth, without supplemental oxygen and at age 59, I might add. To get
as far as he did is simply amazing. he must be in spectacular shape - physically
and mentally. So while he will feel down for a while, one day he will acknowledge
that he achieved something that many people on think about given his age. I hear
from a lot of prospective climbers through my site that ask if they are too old
to start alpine mountaineering at age 35 or 40. Well, let me tell you about Tom!
While the summit gets all the attention, it is often the climb back to the South
Col that is the most dangerous part. It doesn't matter if you made it to the
top or not, you have been climbing for 12 to 15 hours and are out of gas. Legs
feel like putty and your mind is either dealing with the disappointment of not
summitting, the satisfaction of making it or the sense of doing your best. You
are tired, very tired and dehydrated and hungry but most all you just want to
sleep. This is the most dangerous time on Everest.
Some action still remains with AAI and AC both moving up hill today. Perhaps
they will summit later his week. It seems like this has been another banner year
for Everest summiters on the South Side!! And of course, there is the North.
Those Russians keep plugging away and have broken 8,000 meters. They will probably
do a summit bid in a few days after some rest at BC. And Russell Brice's 35 member
HimEx team is still making their way towards a summit. So, hang in there, the
action will not be over for another 10 days.
Updated May 17
Wow, what a weekend! Over 80 climbers stood on top of the world. And early reports
show no deaths. As for frostbite and other injuries, time will tell. It is very
common for climbers to discover they are suffering from frostbite once they return
to BC. Let's hope not this time. While it was a very successful 1st window, the
action is not over with several expeditions moving up mountain for the next window.
The best part of these later expeditions is that all the ropes are in and, unless
there is a horridness storm, the tracks and steps will be well established. This
isn't to say it is any easier, just a little more convenient. Each climber still
must take the climb one step at a time.
The big news for this round of summits was the lateness of the actual summit.
They were delayed by waiting for the Sherpas to fix the ropes to the summit.
It is absolutely incredible what the Sherpas do. They carried oxygen bottles,
tents and food to the South Col and then they lead all the climbers up the final
push stopping to establish rope anchors every few hundred feet.
Now for some acknowledgments of some climbers I have been following. First, RAF
Ted Atkins. He summited early morning May 16. I am very happy for him given this
was his third attempt!
On the Mexico/Canada team, some tense moments. It seems that some of the climbers
decided to use bottled oxygen upon leaving from Camp 4 after climbing almost
the entire mountain without it. For whatever reason, some felt safer with it
once they reached the South Col. This is understandable in that above 8,000 meters
Everest becomes a very different mountain. Martin Boileau, who wrote some excellent
dispatches, was the first of the team to summit. Well done Martin! And one climber
who was near the summit without supplemental oxygen got into trouble. He was
given dexametasone, a serious steroid only reserved for the most critical situations.
Héctor and Andres, two of his teammates gave up their climb to help their
friend down. This is what teams are all about. It is not the single individual
but the team that bonds in the common goal to reach the summit or give it their
best shot. While I am sure Héctor and Andres are disappointed, they will
live the rest of their lives knowing they helped save a life.
Ed Viesturs and some of his team returned to Camp 2 not wanting to participate
in a summit attempt with all the crowds. probably a smart move. It is common
to have 30 to 40 climbers standing still for an hour at 28,000' in strong cold
winds waiting for a slow group to make the Hillary Step or for ropes to be fixed.
If climbers can avoid this, it is a wise decision.
Updated May 15
Reports are coming in that there are 40 climbers at the South Col and maybe up
to 80 are heading to the roof. It seems that once a couple of teams identified
the weather window for this weekend, the summit rush began. It is now clear why
the Viesturs team made the summit push decision after going to Camp 2 to "check
out the weather"! Adventure Consultants and AAI are still down valley so there
will be another round of summit attempts later this month.
Both my summit attempts were in crowds such as this. It is a totally surreal
environment. First, there is the South Col. Which is about the size of a football
stadium covered with smallish size boulders. It is actually the saddle between
Everest and Lhotse. And you are looking down on the summits of hundreds of snow
covered mountain tops. This the place where airplanes fly.
Second is the Everest summit pyramid . Everest looks big from Kala Patar but
camped only 200 feet from the pyramid base it looks daunting. You cannot see
the true summit from Camp 4 or the South Col, you can only see the the South
Summit. The route goes due North and starts fairly easy but quickly becomes steep
on the way to the balcony.
Most everyone tries to get started no later than 10:00 PM. It is an 18 hour day
and a lot of the climbing is in the dark. Most summits occur between 8:00 and
11:00 the next morning. Every climber has their headlamp on so when you look
around all you see are dark figures and flickering lights. The Sherpas are focused
on assisting climbers with their oxygen bottles. Everyone asks where your ice
ax is and grabs your harness very hard - to make sure it is double backed for
safety. This ritual is not reserved for guided clients but is for every climber,
every Sherpa, every guide. This is not the time to make a mistake because you
wanted to be polite.
And then, usually in spurts of three to five climbers, they disappear into the
darkness.
Those left behind watch them fade into the darkness and soon a congo line of
lights starts snaking it's way higher and higher. If the weather is good, the
stars are indescribable. There are so many, they can easily be mistaken for clouds.
They breath the oxygen deeply and it feels cool in their lungs. The cold outside
air touches only the small portion of their cheekbones that are left uncovered
by the down suit. Most climbers have their goggles on to keep their eyes warm
and switch to sunglasses at sunrise.
Step by step, the climbers start the journey higher. While focusing on the physical,
it is the mental that dominates the moment. More on that later. But for now you
Everest climbers: go high, go hard, climb safe and come home.
Updated May 13
Another excellent dispatch by
Martin Boileau of the Mexico/Canada expedition. Many people think Everest climbers
are burly, Testosterone driven men and women who are just crazy. Reading the
dispatches from the Mexico/Canada team, Oath 7 and the Irish Expeditions reveals
the deep thinking and careful approach it takes to attempt the highest peak on
earth. Well done guys, regardless of the summit.
Surprise! Adventure Consultant is going down valley for a few days rest in the "heavy" air.
I think this is an outstanding decision and the entire team will be much healthier
for their summit bid. Also, the upcoming weather window for a summit is too short
for their return. Enjoy the beds and O's!
Mountain Madness and Ed Visteurs are driving towards the summit of May 15 along
with the Mexico/Canada and RAF Atkins. I wonder if Ed's team is trying to capture
some footage of untracked snow?
The South gets a lot of press coverage but that may change given new technology.
David D'Angelo of ExplorerWeb and Team ExWeb has posted a great series of dispatches
on their site but also a very impressive video, complete with soundtrack! I am not sure if it
the video is more impressive or the fact that it was produced on the mountain
by Dave himeself, according to the kind folks over at Mt.
Everest.net., but it is a great piece of work that should not be missed.
Updated May 12
A forecast showing summit winds of "only" 28 m.p.h. on May 16 so the Mexico/Canada
team has left BC for a four day summit bid. The Viesturs/Gustafsson team has
returned to Camp 2 to check out what was really happening with the weather since
they had been getting different reports. They will go on to C4 weather permitting.
They are on Everest making a film about the 1996 disaster so I am sure they want
footage of good and bad weather.
Getting weather reports for any mountain range is difficult and often unpredictable.
But Everest is in a league of her own. Jutting into the jet stream, she creates
her own low pressure system that forces moisture out of the clouds and thus "weather.
But wind is clearly the issue year in year out. 2004 seems to be especially bad.
On the South Side, the final push to the summit is across a narrow ridge that
drops thousands of feet on both sides. Even with fixed ropes, climbers have been
blown off the ridge. Not a place to take a chance. So most teams wait until a
calm window is forecasted before making their bid. Climbers can spend a week
or two in BC waiting for a window.
Keeping your computers running seems to be RAF Ted Atkins biggest problem. He is making his third
attempt, this time solo. According to his support team in the UK "...He is expected
to reach the summit sometime on Thursday if all goes well, having set off from
Camp 4 at about 9pm local on Wednesday night." That would put him on the same
schedule as a couple of other teams.
Summit season has begun!
updated May 11
The dispatches from the South side are rolling in given that some expeditions
who have spent their acclimatization night at Camp 3 are returning to base camp
or even going down the Khumba valley to villages like Dingboche to rest for their
summit bid . The choice to spend a few nights in a teahouse versus staying in
BC is a matter of leader choice and controversy. The issue is the risk of picking
up a cold or an infection from other climbers or trekkers due to the close quarters
in the teahouses.
A couple of standout dispatches since the climbers have some time and higher
speed connections. A must read report
is from from Andrés Delgado on the Mexico/Canada expedition about one
man's struggle with weather, illness and the call of family with the call of
the mountain. A great read!! Another good report is from Oath7 with nice
pictures and route description from the North Side
It sounds like the weather has been horrible this year - primarily the winds
up high. As I have previously reported, many expeditions had their climbs stalled
on both sides of Everest by the hurricane strength winds. Several climbers have
expressed concerns about difficult climbing conditions on summit night since
the winds will have blown the snow away.
Irish update
Dr Clare
O Leary Irish Expedition- South: Clare has made her round trip to C3
and is resting in Dingboche. Their latest dispatch makes for some nice
reading about life behind the scenes. But when I read a heading about "Hurling",
I thought Clare had gotten sick! Well it was really about the game of hurling
which involves a long sticks and balls called sliothars. Based on games
of the ancient Gaelic world, it is all the rage in Ireland these days.
There is a great photo of one of their Sherpas with a hurley in his pack.
I am sure I got something wrong here and will probably get an email from
my Irish mentor "Scott Walker"
Samatha "Sam" O Carroll Adventure Consultants - South:
Sam and the AC team is at C2 after a successful night at C3. AC usually
does not like to leave BC so she will likely settle into the wait and see
game over the next week waiting for a four day weather window before her
summit bid.
Kate Rossiter-O'Flynn Mallory/Irvine -North: Her team
is taking a slow and cautious pace up the North side. It is not clear how
high she climbed thus far.
On the North Side, the Russians just keep on going. Their latest dispatch says "...
4 pitches made before and today we managed to fix five ropes more. In a result
the expedition have reached 7800 meters. We have got 4-5 pitches left up to the
beginning of the rocky bastion. Tomorrow the guys plan to engage in fixing these
ropes, and then will descend to have a rest." Real climbing by some tough guys!
In the face of high winds, 80+km/h on the mountain, the HimEx team made the tactical
decision to return to base camp. They still need to spend one night at Camp 2,
7500 meters, before their summit bid. No reason to worry since most summits happen
in late May. So three weeks to go.
updated May 10
It seems that most South Side expeditions have spent the required night at Camp 3. C3 sits on the Lhotse face at  23,500'. Usually
Sherpas have already made the climb to set up mostly yellow North face tents
as well as fixing the ropes between the tents and C2. Adventure Consultants is
spending Mother's Day in those tents. Climbing the Lhotse Face is the next big
challenge after the Khumbu Ice Fall on the way to the summit. There are many
ropes attached to the face with ice screws and anchors. Each rope is about 200'
long so climbers must unclip their carabiners and jumars at each junction. This
is a two step process so that the climber is always attached to the fixed line
by at least one device. It is very normal for a long line of climbers to be going
up and another long line coming down - usually Sherpas returning from carrying
loads to the higher camps. So, in the middle of the Himalaya, you have a traffic
jam!
Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. You have to
kick your crampon points into the ice stealing precious strength with each step.
After a a few weeks, the path is fairly well set due to the thousands of kicks
into the ice but one storm can have you starting all over again. To see a short video of
the face click on the picture of C3 to the right.
Adventure Consultants report that their Sherpas have carried oxygen bottles to
C4 on the South Col. The round trip from C2 took only 6-7 hours. To put this
in perspective, most Western climbers take 5 hours to climb from C2 to C3 and
another 4 to 5 from C3 to C4 for a total of 10 hours one way!!
updated May 7
 AAI is at C3 and report frozen
rope in the morning and 100 degrees once the sun rose!! This is normal
for the Western Cwm and the Lhotse Face since it is a 'U' shaped valley
with nothing but white snow and ice all above 20,000' The sun reflects
off every surface like aluminum foil around the face of a deranged tanner.
Climbing is a strip show in progress. Starting with all surfaces covered,
you take off the down layer first, then the wind layer, if possible, but
keep a light layer on your hands and your head covered. The worry about
frostbite shifts to sunburn. Both can end a climb at these altitudes!
The Irish expedition has made a bold prediction of a May 20 summit. Actually
it is based on the weather forecast and they clearly acknowledge the margin of
error. They have made it to Camp 3 on the South Side for an acclimatization night
at 23,600' putting Dr. Clair ahead of Sam given that the Adventure Consultants
team left base camp today on their way to Camp 3. AAI is on the same schedule.
But getting to C3 is not any real indication of summit potential... it is Mother
Nature!
José Luis Abreu of the Mexico/Canada team reports that one member,Andrés,
got on top of the Geneva Spur and Alejandro and Luis reached the Yellow Band
at 7600 meters. The rest of the team turned back before reaching Camp 3 and returned
to Camp 2. They are climbing without O's. This is not so much of an problem below
C3 but most climbers use O's above C3. I hope it was the high winds that kept
the other climbers from going above C3.
My experience has been that getting to C3, while hard, is where the real climbing
of Everest begins. C3 is at 23,600'. The climb to the South Col, 8000m, is long,
typically hot and exposes problems. It was on this climb, both times that I began
to have doubts. I took the picture on the right of C3 from the Yellow Band. The
yellow band itself is soft, crumbly limestone and is an extreme contrast from
the ice or snow. There are two short (5 meter) sections that are a little steep.
Again, not too difficult but the altitude really starts to take a toll in this
part. Since this may be the first time some climbers have used bottled O's, the
added discomfort of the mask, heavy bottle, gear, rock and some "real" climbing
- this is the crux of the Geneva Ridge.
On the North, it seems that everyone has retreated to BC due to the high winds.
However the Sherpas have established their C3 at 7900m. So teams on both sides
at making great progress. It is very typical for one team to be ahead of the
masses. More on this dynamic later. It makes for interesting politics on summit
night!
The dispatches have been spotty thus far with AC, AAI, Visters and, my new favorite,
the Irish team providing the most consistent dispatches. But most of all to every
team: Climb safe, Climb on.
May 1-5 (updated May 5)
In spite of the high winds, several expeditions are planning on moving to C2
and C3 based on a forecast of a window. There is a two day window of reduced,
but not insignificant winds, with temps still very cold thus making the risk
of frostbite even greater. The large commercial teams are staying put but others
are on the move:
Andrés Delgado of the Mexican-Canadian
expedition. reports "The difficult days have arrived, days during which a
strong psyche is much more useful than a pair of strong legs…." I like this
comment in that after a month on Everest, it becomes mental, not physical. Maintaining
focus on why you are there is hard, very hard. You can think of a million reasons
to simply quit. But is is a tough team.
They are on their way to 8000 m, the death zone, to complete their acclimatization
schedule. Remember this team is climbing without supplemental oxygen so they
need to make some extra trips up the hill to generate more red blood cells (the
cells that carry oxygen). While this is absolutely necessary, it adds risk to
the summit attempt as compared to climbers using bottled oxygen. This may be
the first team to summit in 2004!
In 2003, a friend of my climbing mate helped rescue a fallen climber. He helped
save a life but he paid a huge price - he lost nine finger tips. The photo shows
his left hand two months after the event. He was unselfish in his efforts without
knowing the long term damage. I can only admire his sacrifice to his fellow climbers.
Well done Sid.
Viesturs/Gustafsson and
team will not climb above C2 until the winds calm down. The voice of experience.
Members of the Irish team retuned to BC from C2. Not a lot from the North
side.
So all is normal on Everest. Some teams pushing it, some teams holding back.
The weather is unpredictable in spite of predications. Experienced mountaineers
showing restraint and patience. More climbers have summited between May 22 to
May 25 according to Adventure Stats so we have a few weeks to go.
Send you positive thoughts to all the climbers ... it is getting harder by the
hour.
(updated May 2)
With strong winds from BC to the summit, most expeditions will probably stay
put. The 40 to 80 m.p.h. winds are forecasted through this next week. For the
teams who already made it to C3 (Mexican-Canadian
expedition and Viesturs/Gustafsson) on the South this will allow for
some rest before their summit attempt. The AC team, down from night at C2 and
a day climb up the Lhotse Face, are back in BC for a five day rest break. Great
timing on their part. But for the vast majority of expeditions on both sides,
this means an unwelcome delay or a risky assent to a higher camp.
The Irish expedition is a Camp 2 and will sit out the storm. I like the report
from Weyth on the Irish expedition: "It's amazing just to watch the winds from
our Camp 2 - stripping Everest of the snow that was attached to it." I also experienced
storms at C2 both times on Everest. Lying in the tent not knowing if it would
be ripped off the ground like a piece of paper made sleeping almost impossible.
Even though there is little snowfall with these storms, the winds blow snow down
the Lhotse Face, pick up tents and makes walking impossible. Lying in your sleeping
bag and trying to sleep is the major activity only interrupted by meals and call
of nature ... which can be very dangerous with exposed skin and all!!
The Russians are at 7,500meters, almost 25,000 feet on the North side. Since
the weather is coming from the Southwest, they may escape some of it but being
that high up, they will get some blow.
Russell Brice's 19 climber, 12 Sherpa and 4 guide commercial expedition continues
to make progress on the North side. Most climbers have been up to the North Col
at over 7,000 meters (23,000 ft), the same as C3 on the South Side. His 36 person
team is split into two teams that required 30 tons of food and equipment!
Russel has an excellent reputation for well run trips at reasonable prices. I
notice he has increased his price for 2005 North Col climb to $40,000. Still
a bargain compared to the South side's range from $45-65K. This is due to lower
permit fees charged by China vs. Nepal.
The Irish Challenge!!
An interesting story is three Irish women all trying to be the first woman from
Ireland to summit Mt. Everest. But the part I like the best is that they are
not in competition and are on three different expeditions. The only competition
is one created by outside forces. However it does create an interesting story!
Scott Walker, Irish Everest lover, notes the three:
Dr Clare
O Leary Irish Expedition- South
Samatha "Sam" O Carroll Adventure Consultants - South
Kate Rossiter-O'Flynn Mallory/Irvine -North
Dr. Clare is from Bandon, Cork and has climbed around the globe including South
America, Alaska, the Alp, Africa, the Himalayas and, of course, Scotland. She
got to 24,500 feet on the Lhotse Face last year on Everest before illness forced
her to return to BC.
Sam is also from Cork and this her first attempt on a really big Hill (8000m).
She does have Aconcagua under her belt.
Finally, Bridget Rossiter O'Flynn of New Ross was on a Pumori climb just before
Everest. I can find little about her but wish her luck
Following all three expeditions, it seems all they are on track with no serious
issues. The South side expedition dispatches are more informative about each
climber so we can follow their progress better than the North.
April 26-30 (updated April 30)
Kevin Donovan of Expedition Everest.Com is on his way home after an inflammation
of the membrane that surrounds the lungs and lines the rib cage. Kevin probably
experienced painful breathing and found it very hard to go higher. I feel for
him having to stop relatively early in his climb but admire his "sense of self" to
know his priorities. The Hill will always be there...
Most teams seem to be back in base camp based on the weather forecast for the
weather turning bad with winds up to 20 m.p.h.. at C3. Being above BC in a storm
is very difficult. The winds can easily destroy your tent, while you are in it!
You cannot walk without being knocked down. You cannot see an arms length in
front ot of you. This is like being blindfolded with shackles on your ankles
while running an obstacles course. But some Sherpas stay at C2 holding the tents
upright throughout the night with their hands and will be prepared with hot tea
when the climbers return .. amazing!
Teams such as Adventure Consultants and American Alpine Assents have not made
it C3 but the strong Mexico/Canada expedition and Viesturs/Gustafsson teams have.
While it seems like the teams have been gone the entire month of April, they
have really only been climbing for a couple of weeks. May is when the real action
starts.
An interesting side story is which Irish woman will be the first to stand on
top of the world. More in future dispatchs but there are three women on three
expeditions each trying to be first this Irish woman to summit but not competing.
The true definition of climbing for the love of climbing. I love t!
(updated April 28)
Lot's of news these days now that several expeditions have made it to C3, 23500'
From AAI: "The fixed line currently ends at the base of the Yellow Band- the
famous band of rock to be crossed en route from CIII to CIV. Tomorrow many teams,
including ours, will be sending Sherpa up to fix the route above starting on
Thursday. If there is good weather the route may be fixed all the way to CIV
by the end of the day Thursday. Some teams are in position to make a preliminary
summit attempt after a week or so."
It would be a plesant surprise if any team made a summit before May 15. The average
time over the past decade has been around May 20 and apparently it has snowed
quite a bit in the Western CWM (and in BC according to the Doc)
and you can assume it is worse higher up. As the following report shows, teams
will await the ropes leading to C4 or the South Col before spending precious
energy to make the climb. Once a team has spent a night at C3, they are generally
in a wait and see mode for a window of 5 days of good weather for the summit
attempt. While only late April, there is a lot of activity ahead.
Ed Viesturs' team is back in BC for the next five days. They are taking their
time this climb while filming for the future movie. Once ropes are set from C3
to the South Col, they will start the tough climbing (as if C2 to C3 is not!).
The Adventure Consultants team report "We saw quite a few teams come down from
C2 today with stories of deep snow, and hard going above.".
The Lhotse Face is an interesting climb in that snow is welcome to eliminate
the concrete hard ice under your crampons, yet it increases the avalanche danger.
With the weather forecasts improving (low winds theough May 1), sometimes teams
push their schedule and thus increase the pressure (mostly self induced) on climbers
not acclimatizing as fast as others.
One of the most interesting behind the scenes events happened today with Dave
Breshears calling a meeting of ten expedition leaders to coordinate which team
fixes ropes on the mountains. The spirit of cooperation is high above the ice
fall (where Sherpas fix ropes and ladders for a fee under the Minestery of Tourism).
But higher on the mountain it is up to the expeditions. This can be an easy task
or an impossible one depending on personalities involved and how tight their
budget is. 
Fixing ropes involves taking thin nylon ropes and attaching it to ice anchors
thus providing a safety line to climbers. There is usually old rope already in
place in some spots but you cannot count on it since the sun's tradition rots
the line and makes it weak an unsafe. Thus new rope is required every year. This
is where the Sherpas shine. Free climbing, pounding ice screws, burying anchors
and fixing rope higher and higher.
April 27
Kevin Donovan of Expedition Everest.Com reports that he is still not feeling
well. He has tightness in his chest and is on antibiotics. He is making a very
smart move in staying at BC for 3 to 4 more days. It takes time to let the medicine
work but climbers feel immense pressure to keep going. Kevin is showing great
maturity by take a few days off.
Sad news from the North Side: David Tait has decided to return home after not
acclimatizing. He must be extremely disappointed but probably made the right
decision in order to prevent putting himself or his teammates in danger. He said
he was experiencing headaches around 5200 meters (17,500'). But to quote David: "Despite
bitter personal disappointment, I have to focus on the positives - nearly 200k
raised so far for the NSPCC, and a new school for 56 children provided for in
Tibet." Well done, mate, well done!
Meanwhile, the Mexico/Canada expedition, continues to push it. A couple of members
stayed at C3 for an extra night in order to acclimatize but a storm developed
creating some excitement. Most climbers stay at C3 for two nights: one to acclimatize
and another on their way to the summit. In 2002, a British climber died after
a stormy night at C3. Extra nights are always a dangerous gamble but this team
seems to be pushing the limits. I hope they know when they reach them. This is
one of the most experienced teams on the mountains AND they are climbing without
supplemental Oxygen. Their webmaster contacted me to point out that they needed
to test themselves at C3 without O's to be ready for the summit attempt. Climb
on guys!!
April 23-25 (updated April 24)
It appears the winds will be mild through the end of the month. But just like
anywhere that can change without notice! With Everest sitting so high, it creates
it's own weather in addition to being effected by monsoons in India, low pressure
over Bhutan. Most expeditions will continue to climb higher.
On the South side, C3 has been established by the Mexican-Canadian
expedition. The Viesturs/Gustafsson teams also there. C3 is a tough
place where you spend one night to acclimatization and another night as you head
for the summit.
It seems that no Sherpas have gone to the South Col, or Camp 4. This is fairly
normal since the Sherpas need to pace themselves and they carry oxygen, tents,
stove, fuels, food and on and on that the "climber" doesn't . To be clear, without
Sherpas, the summit success on Everest would be dramatically lower.
Altitude continues to be a problem for David
Tait on the North side. He returned to BC to rest. Kevin Donovan on the South
has problems as well. The amount of oxygen in his blood was in the low 60% range.
This means he has trouble breathing and feels very weak. The only solution is
to go lower, by at least 1,000 feet. The Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic site
has an exellent story about a climber coming out the icefall in trouble.
Some of the most consistent dispatches are coming from the commercial expeditions.
I have marked the best and most consistent sites with dispatches with a * to
**** star rating (4 is best) on the list above. I like the sites that have good
pictures, maybe a short video but most importantly, dispatches that talk about
how the climbers are feeling: their emotions, their health, the interaction with
the other climber - human dynamics. But in any event, take a visit and sign their
log books or send them an email. I know from experience that every positive thought
helps!
April 20-23 (updated April 22)
The hardest parts of climbing Everest are about to begin. Climbers have been
on the mountain for up to three weeks. They are tired, they miss their families
but most of all, they want to climb higher - to the summit. It is rare that someone
has the experience of climbing to the top five mountains on earth so that they
understand the need for patience. It is more common that they have a few of the "seven
summits" under their belt and are attempting Everest for the first time ... like
I was in 2002!
I am disappointed with the overall dispatches to this point. It is not clear
if the teams are having equipment problems, which is common, or that they are
simply too pooped to write something and send it. I'll summarize the best dispatches
thus far in the next few updates.
In any event, the Viesturs/Gustafsson team
has some great dispatches. Ed just posted one about climbing to C3, 24000'. They
are not only climbing but also fixing the ropes. This is a tedious process of "free
climbing" - without ropes and screwing ice screws (about six inches long) into
concrete hard ice. All this on a 45 degree angle! Meanwhile the AAI and AC teams
are taking their time, which is smart since the jet stream usually doesn't move
off Everest until May 15 through 25 - a lifetime at 8,000 meters!
The Russians continue climbing the hard way experiencing harsh winds, snow and
smooth rock. They have found a spot to set up camp at 6200m on the North face!!!
David Tait seems to be having a difficult time acclimatizing on the North Side.
I am holding out all my hope for him.
The weather looks fantastic through April 27, winds peaking at 15 m.p.h. This
should allow most teams to reach C3 for their acclimatization schedule. Usually
after a nice spot like this, it turns ugly so expedtions should push themselevs
to climb as high as they can.
April 15-20 (updated April 17)
The first emergency evacuation occurred yesterday, a climber from the Irish
Expedition on the South Side due to exhaustion and some form of altitude
sickness. While somewhat unusual for Everest climbers to have these problems
this early in an expedition, it is not rare. Altitude is a strange thing that
treats everyone differently. You can do fine one time and crater the next. And
it can hit you from 10,000' up. Base camp is around 17,500' so it is quite high.
If you rush up the valley from Lukla, sickness is guaranteed. If you take the
normal week, it is rare but can still happen. And there is almost nothing you
can do to prevent it!
I noticed my old team, Adventure Consultants took an extra day at a village below
BC just to make sure everyone was acclimatized - smart move especially since
the winds are so bad that no one is going higher than C1 or 2 as I reported in
the previous dispatch. It is supposed to calm down this weekend.
On the North, the Russians are
calling the North Face "tough", which is quite an admission for the tough Russians.
They are doing the absolutely toughest route this year - straight up the North
face wall. This means setting protection (cams, ice screws, pitons) into any
crack they can find in the rocks. They are truly climbing Mt. Everest.
Finally, David Tait of Himalayan
Experience expedition is already making comments about annoying mates on
his trip. It does not take long to figure out who you will like and who you will
avoid but you still have 6 weeks left on the Hill so you need to figure out how
to get along.
April 13-15 (updated April 14)
 Things
are picking up! The Mexican-Canadian Expedition is driving to Camp 3, which
has me worried in that they are the first team up there and are literally
pushing the Sherpas to fix ropes. While someone has to be first, I wonder
if this is the team to do it with a Breashears/Viesturs expedition in camp.
Any wonder these professionals are not first?
The overall dispatches from the South and especially the North are few and far
between right now since not every team has made it to camps with access to satellites
but the few that are in speak of a little colder temps than expected and no problems
with Maoist North of Lukla. Now the real action starts for most trips up the
ice fall to spend the night at camps 1 and 2.
As reported by Sarah Henley from Mountain Madness "The most exciting ladder in
the whole fall is not one ladder, not two ladders, but six ladders tied together
at about 80 degrees, which crosses at the top of the ice fall. These are 12 ft.
ladders which means this particular system was about 60 ft. long." This is not
too unusual in my experience (we had five ladders last year at the top of the
ice fall) in that it means the ice fall is a little more difficult than in past
years meaning more time in this deadly area.
It snowed fairly well on April 13, not all that unusual. it melts quickly at
BC but could be a problem in the ice fall and the Western Cwm. Most expeditions
simply take an extra rest day when this happens ... after all there really isn't
a great hurry.
Over on the North side, David
Tait, is sending some great personal dispatches. This is his third attempt
and he has my heart!!
Finally, the weather looks a little dicey. Mt.Everest.net shows
winds at 25 to 30 mph at Camp 2 and higher at C3. This is impossible conditions
and teams will probably hunker down at C1/C2 or back in BC. The forecast shows
lower winds on April 18, Sunday. I would guess that most teams will be content
to go up the ice fall, maybe to C1 or 2 and return to BC before spending too
much time at the higher camps with the high winds. The issue is that visibility
often goes to zero. In the Western Cwm, there are many crevasse and with zero
visibility, you cannot see them so it is much safer to sit put.
April 10-13
Most teams are now climbing the ice fall starting their acclimatization schedule.
Teams spend a night or two at Camp 1 then another two at Camp 2 after a rest
day back at BC. It seems that the Viesturs camp, sponsored by the Discovery channel,
is creating quite a stir with their filming for the movie based on the 1996 disaster.
These things can be a distraction and hurt inexperienced climbers on Everest.
The big names are exciting as is all the filming activity. In 2002, we had the
Peter Hillary team doing a film about the 50th annivsery. It is critical to get
your rest, eat properly and focus on your climb. However, it is exciting!!
Before starting up the icefall, all expeditions have a puja at base camp. A Lama
from a local village treks over. At a eight-foot high stone alter, pictures of
the Dali Lama and climbing tools are placed. The Lama chants prayers from centuries
old Tibetan prayer books while the climbers, Sherpas and staff sit quietly eating
and drinking. (Click
on the picture for a video) Occasionally, rice is passed around and thrown
into the air three times. Soon fur boughs are lit allowing smoke to rise. The
Sherpas hoist a long wooden pole atop the alter that holds five to seven strings
of prayer flags that will cover the camp for the duration of the expedition.
This is a very, very special time. You get the sense that this is not your local
climb and the Sherpas are unique people. Sometimes, people drink a little too
much but the altitude keeps most everyone honest! Rum and coke along with beer
seems to be local favorite.
April 1-10
 The teams
are traveling from Kathmandu this week. There are several big events. Landing
in Lukla (click
on the picture for a video) is an incredible event. Flying from Kathmadu,
you see the barley fields and hill top villages. All of a sudden the airplane
starts to drop and you have no idea of where you will land. With a bump, you
are in Lukla and the beginning of the trek to base camp.
The Nepalese Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation has issues permits
for 11 teams on the
South side and word has that this is a low snow year. So the Hill will be less
crowded than normal but more rock and ice underfoot. 
Multiple expeditions are now sending dispatches. Most are describing their
trek from Lukla to base camp. It seems that the Maoist have created significant
problems in Kathmandu mostly with transportation and some strikes closing restaurant
and stores. This is a not a big problem but for expeditions that wanted to
pick up some last minute drugs or gear, it is annoying.
One of the great experiences all teams go through is the Puja. This is a ceremony
conducted by a local Lama. Usually climbers have at least two Pujas, one trekking
in through the Khumbu and another at base camp. The picture on the left is
a Lama reading for a 300 year old Tibetean prayer book in Namche. (Click
on the picture for the video).
The Mexican-Canadian
Expedition has already reached Camp 1 and seems to be leading all the
other expeditions. This is interesting in that most years, the winds do not
move off the summit until after May 15 so this team may be getting ahead
just in time for a two week wait. Ed Viesturs and Veikka Gustafsson are in
BC but have not gone up the ice fall.
March, 2004
Many expeditions are now traveling or getting ready to travel to Kathmandu, the
most common launch site for climbing to the top of the world. This year's expeditions
are the usual variety of commercial, personal and theme climbs. An interesting
one is the Everest Peace Project. This is a truly international  effort consisting of climbers with a wide variety of religious
beliefs. Another one that caught my eye was the Russian North Wall - an ambitious
effort to summit via very difficult route.
It seems that climbing Everest has turned into a three ring circus these days.
To receive press coverage, the expedition claims to be the first at something:
disabilities, route, hang gliding, skiing, politics, etc. What happened to just
climbing for the love of climbing?
Arriving at Kathmandu is sensory overload. Most climbers from the US connect
through Bangkok and  fly Thai Airline
flight 319 arriving into Kathmandu around 1:00 in the afternoon. Flying in, if
you sat on the right side of the airplane, you can see Everest on a clear day.
After landing, you walk down the mobile stairs (KTM is a s m a l l airport) into
the customs and luggage area. A sign on the wall tells you what you can and cannot
bring into the country. It is hot and very humid and the place feels like an
ant farm on a windy day. Some people pass their luggage through the x-ray machine,
some do not. If you don't want to, you don't - amazing!
Meeting your hosts outside the luggage area, you usually cram into a Yugo size
car with some other teammates you don't ka short ride to the hotel. Now
is when it hits you that you are not in Kansas anymore! There are cows walking
in the street, cows  sleeping in the street and people walking
barefoot on the hard packed dirt sidewalks, sometimes carrying a corpse for cremation
at the Bagmati River. The buildings are mostly mud bricks built by hand on bamboo
scaffolding. Yes, you are in a third world country and about to go farther!
Most climbers stay in the Thamel area which is Western only in the signs. It
is usually bustling with activity - people wanting to fix your shoes, sell you
smokes, or anything else you want, and a plethora of stores with climbing gear,
rugs, medicines and many restaurants. I always made a visit to Fire & Ice
Pizza - run by an Italian couple they make a great pizza marguerita! That along
with a pint of beer, I read the Herald Tribune as I think about what was ahead
for the next two months. Unfortunatley, this year, it seems that the maoust rebels
are still creating problems with a strike called in Kathmandu that has closed
all the shops and resturants. This is a common tatic that disrupts commerce but
usually is not threating to climbers. For the past several years, a truce has
been called around Arpil 1st, just in time for most expeditions to safely make
their way throught the Khumbu. Well see what happens this year.
At the hotel, you meet the rest of your expedition - the people you will spend
the next two months - talking, eating, sleeping with almost 24 hours a day. You
begin to sort out who will be fun and who will be a pain. But most of all, who
you can count on as a climbing partner.
The early reports from Nepal and an expedition on Pumori, which is right next
to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is that there is less snow than usual this year. This
means the route high up on Everest will be more rock and more difficult especally
if covered with ice.
February, 2004
For the climbers, this is the time for pushing your training to the limits. They
are training with full packs, pushing heart rates to maximum and running long
courses to build endurance along with strength. Getting the gear finalized continues
to be a task especially if some have to be ordered.
For the expedition organizers, its all about the details. Some expeditions have
actually sent some Sherpas to base camp on the south side. There they stake out
their camps with rocks and signs. It is first come, first served at BC. While
you must have a permit from the Ministry of Tourism to establish a site at BC,
there is no organized approach to who gets which site. Some prefer being as close
to the foot of the Khumbu Icefall to minimize the walk to camp while others prefer
to be far away to minimize the traffic. In either approach, there is a huge task
of preparing the site.
It appears that this season will be busy as ever with slightly more North side
expeditions. This is probably due to the lower fees charged by China than on
the South side by Nepal. The fees in US dollars for a South Side permit are:
$25,000-1 climber, $40,000-2, $48,000-3, $56,000-4, $60,000-5, $66,000-6, $70,000-7
and $10,000 for each additional climber up to 10 on one permit. Also there is
a fee for bringing a sat phone into Nepal of $2,500. Finally, another $2500 per
expedition for fixing rope in the Khumbu icefall.
Another trend is the "a la cart" approach to pricing. Some expeditions are advertising
prices as low as $6,000 but this does not include food above advanced base camp,
Sherpas, guides, oxygen and on and on. They charge $300 per oxygen bottle, $4,000
per climbing Sherpa. A popular option to reduce expenses are "base camp services" which
is a good deal if you have the experience. You get logistics support, a spot
on a permit with other climbers but no formal guiding.
January, 2004 - The Preparation
Training is the key activity for all Everest climbers. With only three months
before arriving in Kathmandu or Lhasa, climbers should be extremely fit. They
have been working on their cardio by running, strength by lifting weights and
getting some real world miles under their feet hopefully by climbing. Many people
underestimate how climbing Everest is a total physical experience. You need to
have balance throughout your training regime But there is also the psychology
of climbing. You can train your mind just like your body with visualization techniques
as well as pushing even harder when you think you cannot go on during training.
I chronicled my training both years, if you
are interested.
Another major activity at this point is rounding up the final gear. Some climbers
have been known to arrive on Everest with brand new boots - never used and straight
out of the box. Once on the Hill, there is no REI nearby! Hopefully most of the
gear has been used and the climbers are comfortable with it. They know how to
use crampons, ice axes, harness, carabiners and all the other gear. My personal
gear list was honed after many climbs and served me well. |
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