2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Final Winter Summit Pushes, Surprise New Team
The two expeditions left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest, are starting their final pushes. One is already in the midst. The wildcard, as always, will be the weather and this week’s forecast has a few short windows, but nothing ideal, especially in winter. Wind chills are consistently forecasted around -50F/C, the limit […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Only Two Left
Only two teams are left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest and both are struggling. Both suggest one more attempt to get as high as possible before ending their efforts. While the temps have been cold and the winds high, there is running water at Everest Base Camp, a warning sign for the […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Ends Broad Peak Summit Push
Denis Urbuko ended his winter Broad Peak effort after reaching 7000m, getting hit by an avalanche. Spaniard Oscar Cardo on Alex Txikon’s team evacuated from Everest C2 with some form of AMS. Controversy over the early termination of the K2 expedition. Broad Peak – Over – Hit by Avalanche Denis Urubko ended his summit bid […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Launch Broad Peak Summit Push tomorrow
Broad Peak weather forecast changed so Urbuko will leave for the summit Sunday, February 16 aiming to top out on the 17th. He’s alone with no comms so we won’t have any updates until mid-week. Txikon moved to C2 on Everest while Jost seems to be exploring options for the West Ridge. Broad Peak – […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs:What Went Wrong on K2?
I was quite surprised when I read the news from John Snorri that their winter K2 attempt had come to a sudden halt and all members had flown back to Askole. I’ve known the expedition leader, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s and his Imagine Nepal guide company for years and highly respect his skills and leadership ability. The […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Fighting the Weather
Jost was blown back to EBC after a tough night on the Lho La. Urbuko wants to get Broad Peak in February to meet his definition of winter and now is targeting February 20/21. Porters have been pushed back to February 22. Everest Txikon on Southeast Ridge – Headed Higher With an improved forecast Alex […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Wind Stops Everyone
The good news is it is a bit warmer on both Everest and Broad Peak, the bad news, it’s too windy to climb. Time is running out for Urbuko on Broad Peak. Porters are coming on February 20. Everest Txikon on Southeast Ridge – Holding at EBC Alex Txikon and team were hoping to leave EBC […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Warming Conditions
The cold is easing up a bit allowing more movement on Everest. No word from Denis Urubko on Broad Peak. Everest Txikon on Southeast Ridge – At EBC Alex Txikon and team are hoping to leave EBC for Camp 3 or even 4 at the South Col in a day or so. Txikon’s posted this update […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Only A Few Remain
Cold has hampered the remaining expeditions, two on Everest and one on Broad Peak. However, this week looks better for Everest but still mind-numbing wind chills on BP. Broad Peak Denis Urubko was thought to go on his summit pus solo this weekend but stayed at base camp due to weather. The porters are […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Weekend Update
Climbing in the winter is dramatically different than in the usual seasons, obviously. More expeditions don’t summit than stand on top. There are many reasons for this ranging from experience, preparation, and team dynamics to weather, mountain conditions or just that after weeks on end at temperatures hovering under -20F/-29C and winds gusting over 100mph/160kph […]