KIlimanjaro FAQ

Kilimanjaro

Tanzania, Africa
19,340 feet/5896 meters
Summited September 19, 2011
7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s

About Kilimanjaro

Q: Where is Kilimanjaro?
A: Kilimanjaro is located in Tanzania, Africa. It is unique not only for being the highest in Africa and one of the 7 summits but also for having one of the highest stand-alone vertical gains of any mountain on earth. It stands seemingly alone in the Tanzanian savannah. Most climbers fly into Kilimanjaro airport and take a cab or bus to Moshi, Tanzania, to meet with their team or guide service.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: Being near the equator, it can be climbed almost any time of the year. However, the biggest consideration is the rainy season in the winter, so summer is most popular, with September being the prime month.

Q: Kilimanjaro is an easy climb, but it’s just a high-altitude hike. How hard is it?
A: It can be “easy” on a perfect weather day and the usual routes if you are in great aerobic shape. But as with most extreme altitude climbs, Kilimanjaro can have brutal summit weather with temperatures at 0F and if the winds are blowing, the wind chills can be very dangerous. Climbers die on Kilimanjaro. Also, remember that this is almost 6,000 meters or 20,000 feet, so AMS is always a risk, as is HAPE or HACE.

Q: How do the standard routes on Kilimanjaro compare with Denali since it is at a similar altitude or Rainier?
A: Kili is a straightforward climb via the usual routes with no real objective danger except for cold summit weather. Porters carry everything for you, as the park regulations require, so all you carry is a simple day pack with the bare essentials. On Kilimanjaro, it is very dry, and there is rarely snow down low but some snow on the summit. There is no crevasse danger like Denali or Rainier on normal routes. It is more similar to a tough Colorado 14er than Rainier or Denali.

Q: Is a Kilimanjaro climb dangerous?
A: The standard routes make climbing Kilimanjaro relatively safe. However, there are always deaths on these big mountains. Kilimanjaro is no different. The most common cause of death is probably altitude-related, and that is from going too fast and not taking the time to acclimatize. This is why selecting the proper guide service is critical.

Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying?
A: It is estimated that 25,000 climb Kilimanjaro using the various routes each year. The summit rate is around 66%, with cold summit days and altitude issues being the primary reasons for not summiting. I understand there is about one death each year; thus, it is relatively safe; however, one climber was killed by lightning in early 2013


Training, Gear & Communication

Q: How did you train for this climb?
A: This was part of my  7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories Are Everything® project. So, I climbed continuously throughout 2010 and 2011, either in training or on the climbs. I was in excellent physical and mental condition for this climb. But I suggest the usual training regime of running, lightweight and aerobic conditioning.

Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: Yes! Anytime you are above 8,000′, you can experience problems. Kilimanjaro is a serious high-altitude mountain. Even though the standard routes are not technically challenging, the altitude takes its toll on climbers each year, thus the 66% success rate. We had several members of our team struggle (including vomiting) with the altitude on the summit push, but everyone pushed through, and we had 100% success.

Q: Can you prepare for the altitude?
A:  Not really. The standard approach is to move slowly up the mountain (1000′ a day maximum), spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes, especially above 8000m (26,300′). As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases. Although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains fewer oxygen molecules.

Everest legend Tom Hornbein explained it to the American Lung Association this way:

The lower oxygen stimulates chemoreceptors that initiate an increase in breathing, lowering the partial pressure of CO2 and, hence, more alkaline blood pH. The kidneys begin to unload bicarbonate to compensate. Though this adaptation can take many days, up to 80% occurs in the first 48 to 72 hours. Many other physiologic changes are going on, among them the stimulus of low oxygen to release the hormone erythropoietin to stimulate more red blood cell production, a physiological and still acceptable form of blood doping that enhances endurance performance at low altitudes. Adaptive changes are not always suitable for one’s health. Some South American high-altitude residents can have chronic mountain sickness resulting from too many red blood cells; their blood can be up to 84-85% red blood cells. The increased blood viscosity and sometimes associated pulmonary hypertension can result in right heart failure.

A popular method today is acclimatizing at home in a hypoxic tent. Climbers spend 60 days sleeping with a plastic box over their heads, reaching a simulated altitude of 17,800 feet. They can be rented for about $500 per month. The ultra-high-end guides include it as part of their expedition fee. This pre-acclimatization reduces the number of rotations and significantly shortens the expedition. However, weather delays often put those who acclimatized with traditional methods on the same schedule as the tent methods.

Q: What kind of equipment did you use?
A: Mostly, I use the same gear I used on Rainier. Lots of layers. It is always critical to protect my toes, fingers and face since these are most susceptible to frostbite. As for warmth, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool – regardless of the outside temp. I used simple trekking pants and a top for the lower levels but got serious for summit night. I use a three-layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), then my Patagonia Guide pants. On top, I had my base layer, Patagonia Hoody, as a mid-layer, then my top wind or warmth layer, e.g., Patagonia Micro Puff. When it got windy, I added my rain shell, the Patagonia Rain Shadow jacket. This is a video about the gear I used.

Q: Is anything special in your gear for Kilimanjaro?
A: It rained, so I was glad I had brought my 100% waterproof layers of the Patagonia Rain Shadow jacket and pants. Also, I used my gators. A rain cover for my pack was very useful. Some people bring an umbrella.

Q: How did the Sat Phone work?
A: I used Iridium, and it was okay for voice and data unless it was raining. Then, it was frustrating in that I lost the signal every five minutes, preventing me from uploading multiple pictures. Also, the constant cloud cover prevented me from fully using my solar charger.


Expedition Basics:

Kili Routes
Kili Routes

Q: Which routes are most popular?
A: 5 main routes meander from the jungle through five microclimates to join the three final ascent routes to Kibo. Both the Machame and Lemosho routes offer a more leisurely paced scenic climb. The Lemosho route is less crowded, while the Machame route has a more difficult beginning but joins into the same route as the Lemosho. The Marangu climb is crowded since it follows a road part-way. There is a technical route, the Western Breach, but it is prone to rock fall, is considered extremely dangerous, and is not offered by most companies unless you are willing to take the risks.

Q: How long does a climb usually take?
A: My entire trip took about 14 days, home to home, including a short safari (highly recommended) after the climb. The actual time on Kilimanjaro was only 7 days.

Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: The costs can range from $1500 to $7000, depending on who you use. Due to Tanzanian government regulations, you must use a guide.

Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: Yes, you must have a permit, and all climbers, regardless of route or guides, must use guides and porters, with no exceptions.

Q: Do I need a guide for Kilimanjaro?
A: As mentioned, the park service requires guides and porters, but they vary in skill, as expected. The worst is rushing clients to the summit to squeeze in more customers throughout the season. But the vast majority are well versed in AMS and take their time. But with local guides, if you get sick, they may not know what to do other than drag you lower. For more serious injuries, your life could be in danger, so choose carefully. There is no helicopter evacuation on Kilimanjaro unless there are dire circumstances. You must bring a two-way radio, cell and a sat phone, in my opinion, and have the frequency or number of the local rescue resources already programmed in.

Q: Are there local guides for Kilimanjaro?
A: Yes, many quality choices are based in Moshi and Arusha. Most are less expensive than traditional Western companies, but some charge about the same price. My usual advice is to get recent references from a climber with a similar background and skill level. Get everything in writing. Understand the acclimatization schedule, especially since local guides have been known to rush people up and down. Finally, ask about food, group gear and language skills.

Q: How do you get on an expedition to climb Kilimanjaro?
A: Guide service will accept almost anyone, given it is not technical.


My 2011 Experience

Q: Did you summit?
A: Yes. We left the High Camp around midnight and summited at about dawn or 7:00 AM, climbing slowly and steadily. All 14 of our team made the summit 100%.

Q: Why did you choose International Mountain Guides?
A: Phil Ershler and Eric Simonson is the simple answer. Phil and Eric have been guiding Kilimanjaro since the 1980s. Also, I was climbing most of the Seven Summits with IMG throughout 2011. As I went through my severely sprained ankle, I wondered what would have happened with a local guide service with no Western leadership. Perhaps it would have been fine, but I felt cared for going through my ordeal, always having an IMG by my side.

Q: How did they perform?
A: Very, very well. Eben Reckord was our IMG guide, and he showed his experience and skills throughout the climb. We had various skills on our team, and Eben was careful to look after everyone with a 100% summit success rate of 14 clients.

Q: I understand you were injured on the descent. What happened?
A: I twisted my right ankle just below the Barufu camp at 15,000′ as we were descending from our summit. It was very painful and extremely swollen so much so that I could not walk on my own. Under the leadership of Eben, the local guides and porters hand carried me down almost 9,000′ in a modified gurney on a single wheel. It was a fantastic feat of physical strength and determination. I went to the hospital in Moshi, where I received good care from the doctors. An x-ray determined no broken bones, and I was released. It healed after a few days, and I am eternally grateful to Eben, IMG and the porters for looking after me.

Q: Which route did you take?
A: We climbed the Machame route, which starts in the jungle and goes through five microclimates to the summit. The trail was smooth and well-worn. There was a bit of mud initially, so I appreciated having gators. Depending on your experience, the most interesting or challenging section was on the Baranco Wall, where we did some easy rock scrambling. Otherwise, the entire route to the summit and down was straightforward and similar to a Colorado 14er.

Kili's true summit
Kili’s true summit

Q: And the summit?
A: Seeing the famous Kilimanjaro sign was exciting. The summit is extremely large as it is the crater of the volcano. You step on the crater rim at Stella Point, but the high point is marked with a sign a bit further along the rim, taking 15 to 30 minutes to get there. There is another spot reported to be 5 feet higher than the sign marked with a weird iron cross matrix just beyond the sign. Along with Eben and teammate Brook, we went there to ensure we tagged it. Also, the glaciers were inspiring even though it was clear they were melting rapidly.

Q: How long did the summit push take?
A: It took about 7 hours to reach the summit at a very steady pace and 2 hours to get back to Barufu camp at 15,000′. I spent 1.5 hours on the summit, for an 11-hour roundtrip.

Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: My mid-September 2011 climb was warm and rainy. It was very warm during the first few days, then gradually got colder as we gained altitude. The summit bid temps were mild, being about 40F leaving camp at midnight and around 32F on the summit at dawn. There was no wind. It rained on our first morning and again on days 2 and 3, including heavy fog and low clouds that blocked most of the good views.

Q: Did you use bottled oxygen?
A: No, supplemental oxygen is usually only used above 26,500′.

Q: Would you climb Kilimanjaro again?
A: Maybe. The climb was enjoyable but not very challenging. Being in Africa made Kilimanjaro interesting. I would return for a safari!

Bottom Line

Kilimanjaro is a nice climb for anyone wanting a combination of cultural experience plus a moderate high-altitude climbing experience. The standard routes are safe and do not require technical skills with ropes or crampons. Without snow, it is extremely dirty and dusty. Well-worn trails mark the majority of the route. Finally, going on a safari after the climb makes the experience all the better.


Kilimanjaro Resources

I summited Kilimanjaro on September 2011. You can read about my climb on these links:


7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s

Ida Arnette
Ida Arnette

In late 2010, I launched the 7 Summits for Alzheimer’s campaign, where I wanted to climb all seven (eight) of the Seven Summits in one year. The first summit was Vinson in Antarctica on December 9th, 2010. This was the last summit on October 25, 2011. I had made every summit except Denali, which was stopped by weather, 3100′ short of the summit.

I have been able to send our Alzheimer’s message of hope, need and urgency from each continent, reaching over 12 million people and raising money for research, awareness and caregivers. In 2025, I will continue to dedicate my climbing and public presence to honoring my mom, Ida, and raising research funds for Alzheimer’s nonprofits. Please consider a donation today.donate to Alzheimers

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