Elbrus FAQ

Elbrus

Russia
18,513′,5642 meters
Summited August 11, 2011
7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s

About Elbrus

Q: Where is Elbrus
A: It is located in Russia. Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia. Mt. Elbrus has two main summits – the higher western summit at 18,513’/5642m and the eastern summit at 18,442’/5621m. The first ascent of the west peak was in 1874 by a Russian army team, and the east in 1829 by an English team. Mont Blanc is sometimes considered the highest in Europe, but Elbrus technically holds that honor.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: The typical climbing season is May to September. The climb is relatively short by 7 Summit standards, taking less than a week at most.

Q: I understand that Elbrus’s north side is just a simple walk-up. How hard is it?
A: It was not ‘easy,’ but It depends on what you have done. I climbed the north side of our team of 9 climbers, and only one other and I summited. The elevation gain was significant, with the base camp at 8,200′ and the summit at 18,513′, so a 6000′ summit day. The climbing involved rope travel, crampons, ice axe, glaciers and steep snow slopes. Elbrus is often underestimated and takes lives each year. Given the poor state of the south, the north side is becoming more popular for people interested in climbing.

Q: And what about Elbrus’s south side?
A: I have not climbed that side, but from everything I hear, it is straightforward, albeit a bit of a dump. It is very popular for people looking to “check off” Elbrus for their 7 Summit climb or Russians on holiday. Elbrus’ south side is technically easy and includes a cable car up to the 12,500′ level. It is a snow slope from there to the summit. You can stay in ‘huts,’ a single-room, rock-walled building with tin roofs at 12,700′ and/or the Barrel Huts, at 13,600 feet. A snow-cat is reported to be available for climbers who want a ride even higher – up to 15,750.

Q: How does Elbrus compare with Rainier or Aconcagua?
A: It resembles Rainier, with a short climbing period and relatively easy snow slopes. The summit of 18,513 feet offers altitude difficulty between the two. The weather can be harsh, stopping teams cold. With only two camps on either side, carrying loads is usually not an issue unless you want to carry your own tents, etc.

Q: How does Elbrus compare with the other 7 Summits?
A: It is one of the easiest that still offers snow climbing. The gain from the north base camp is about 10,000′ and only a few thousand from the south, so it is easy by that standard.

Q: Is an Elbrus climb dangerous?
A: Absolutely. Like most mountains with a reputation for being easy, they are also deadly, and Elbrus is no exception. About 25 climbers die each year due to ill-preparedness or the weather. It can be extremely cold and windy. However, thousands of people summited Elbrus, including a Soviet team of 400 climbers, in 1956!

Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying?
A: No figures have been released for Elbrus, but from what I saw while climbing the north with a local guide service, the chances of making the higher west summit are low.


Training, Gear & Communication:

Q: How did you train for this climb?
A: I did a lot of running for aerobic conditioning plus weight training for the heavy loads. In 2011, I climbed other mountains extensively as part of my 7 Summits program.

Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: It is always a challenge to climb these big mountains. Many people feel some type of AMS above 11,000′, and half of our nine-member team quit just above the 12,000′ High Camp. As I mentioned, I had already climbed four other Seven Summits peaks in the previous six months, so I was in excellent condition and never felt the altitude or the strain.

Q: Can you prepare for the altitude?
A: Not really. The standard approach is to move slowly up the mountain (1000′ a day maximum), spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes, especially above 8000m (26,300′). As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases. Although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains fewer oxygen molecules.

Everest legend Tom Hornbein explained it to the American Lung Association this way:

The lower oxygen stimulates chemoreceptors that initiate an increase in breathing, lowering the partial pressure of CO2 and, hence, more alkaline blood pH. The kidneys begin to unload bicarbonate to compensate. Though this adaptation can take many days, up to 80% occurs in the first 48 to 72 hours. Many other physiologic changes are going on, among them the stimulus of low oxygen to release the hormone erythropoietin to stimulate more red blood cell production, a physiological and still acceptable form of blood doping that enhances endurance performance at low altitudes. Adaptive changes are not always suitable for one’s health. Some South American high-altitude residents can have chronic mountain sickness resulting from too many red blood cells; their blood can be up to 84-85% red blood cells. The increased blood viscosity and sometimes associated pulmonary hypertension can result in right heart failure.

A popular method today is acclimatizing at home in a hypoxic tent. Climbers spend 60 days sleeping with a plastic box over their heads, reaching a simulated altitude of 17,800 feet. They can be rented for about $500 per month. The ultra-high-end guides include it as part of their expedition fee. This pre-acclimatization reduces the number of rotations and significantly shortens the expedition. However, weather delays often put those who acclimatized with traditional methods on the same schedule as the tent methods.

Q: What kind of equipment did you use?
Manaslu GearA: Mostly, I use the same gear I used on Denali—lots of layers. My technical equipment included a long-handle ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. Protecting my toes, fingers and face is critical since they are most susceptible to frostbite. As for warmth, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool – regardless of the outside temp. I use a three-layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in the Mountain Hardware Power Stretch (a Farmer’s John kind of suit) or just my Patagonia Guide Pants, depending on how cold it is that day then my top wind or warmth layer e.g., Patagonia Micro Puff and/or JetStream Shell. When the winds pick up and the temps hover near 0F, I add my 850 Fill Down jacket and mitts.

Q: Is there anything unique in your Elbrus gear?
A: I used everything on my gear page under Elbrus. We had excellent weather in mid-August, with temps never below 10F. But Elbrus can be extremely cold and windy, so multiple down layers are required. My boots were the Kayland 6001 and were warm enough.

Q: Did you use a satellite phone?
A: I used an Iridium phone to post dispatches on this site. Cell phone connections are available on the North side of Elbrus, a short walk from base camp, and widely available on the south.


Expedition Basics

Q: Which route is most prevalent?
A: The south side by a considerable margin. The standard route on Elbrus’ south is technically easy and includes a cable car up to the 12,500′ level. It is a snow slope from there to the summit. Climbers stay in ‘huts,’ single-room, rock-walled buildings with tin roofs at 12,700′ and/or the Barrel Huts, 13,600′, which are huge barrels. A snow-cat is reported to be available for climbers who want a ride even higher – up to 15,750. It is common to have over 100 climbers going for the summit in a single day in July.

Q: How long will it take?
A: 1 week or less on the mountain plus another few days to get to and from Russia. A visa is required to enter Russia, which takes a few weeks to obtain.

Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: The costs can range from $1000 to $5000, depending on who you use. Western companies offer more familiar services to Western climbers, including hygiene, food, safety procedures, and group gear. However, they usually partner with a local Russian guide service.

Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: Yes. All climbers must register and pay a fee through your local Russian guide service. Your Western or European company usually handles this if you use one.

Q: Do I need a guide for Elbrus?
A: I cannot imagine trying to climb Elbrus without local support at a minimum, plus speaking fluent Russian. Elbrus is a serious high-altitude climb, and it is in Russia (obviously), so there are not only climbing issues but cultural ones to work through. Some people go to Elbrus without a formal guide and use a local service on the south side. This is rare in the north. There are usually a lot of climbers on Elbrus, so you would probably not be alone, but you could quickly be. You will be alone in harsh weather (white-outs) or a medical emergency, so consider your skill level carefully. Also, crevasse danger is real, especially in the north, and always present in the lower glacier area, so crevasse rescue skills must be second nature to everyone on the team. Climbing alone or in a team that is too small is never a good idea. You must bring a two-way radio, cell and a sat phone, in my opinion, and have the frequency or number of the local rescue resources already programmed in.

Q: Are there local guides for Elbrus?
A: Yes, many services are available online. Just be aware that you are dealing with Russian customs, and they may be quite different from your other guide service experiences. Elbrus Tours and Pilgrim Tours both offer logistics-only services without a guide, and VisitRussia.com can help with visas and travel. These might be good alternatives for extremely experienced climbers and world travelers but not for novices on either front, in my opinion.


My 2011 Experience

Alan on the summit Mt. Elbrus
Alan on the summit Mt. Elbrus with Cure Alzheimer’s Banner

Q: Did you summit?
A: Yes, I reached the West summit, the higher of the two, on August 11, 2011.

Q: Why did you choose AlpsIndustria as a guide service?
A: I was signed up to climb from the south side with International Mountain Guides (IMG), but like most guide companies, they canceled their climb after local officials closed that side due to violence in early 2011. Phil Ershler helped me get on at the last possible minute with Alps so that I could continue my 7 Summits program in 2011.

Q: How did they perform?
A: Very well, but everything has to be framed in relation to the Russian climbing culture. The logistics were smooth, including airport pickup and hotels. I always felt that someone was looking out for me. The food at base camp was better than at the High Camp, where it was very basic, as is usual with all high-altitude climbs. The lead guide, Daniel, was skilled but spoke very little English. We climbed mainly in the heat of the day for some unknown reason. The tents were a mix of different brands but were in good condition. The kitchen tents had essential folding stools or chairs, and the dishes were plastic bowls. Overall, the entire staff was professional and friendly.

Q: What were the camps in the north like?
A: I climbed from the north side. The east and west summits were visible for miles. We took a 5-hour drive from Pyatigorsk on dirt roads to a primitive base camp located in a cow pasture at 8,200′. There were many other teams located here and it was quite noisy and crowded. There was a tent toilet in the field and a running stream nearby people used for bathing. The High Camp was at 12,000′ on volcanic rock at the edge of the permanent snowfields of Elbrus. Because flat space was at a premium, the tents were closely spaced, and it was noisy at night. The toilet was a spot on the rocks, covered with human waste and toilet paper. Water was taken from the glacier run-off and boiled.

Q: What was the route to the West summit like?
A: From the High Camp at 12,000′ it followed a direct path to Lenz’s rocks around 14,000′. Teams went directly up to the lower east summit or veered right towards the higher west summit. Due to large crevasses, we roped up on the lower glacier and just below the west summit. The snow was firm until the daytime sun in August created a slick mush. It was a 6,000′ gain from High Camp to summit and took 7:30 minutes up and 4 hours down with frequent smoke breaks for our guide. The final climb to the summit starts with a 1,000′ steep snow slope with switchbacks and then traverses across a high plateau to a small bump on the most westerly end of the West summit. There, a plaque in Russian marks the true summit. The views were outstanding.

Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: It was not very cold. Night temps were in the teens, and daytime was in the 70s and 80s. It was boiling on the glacier in the midday sun.

Q: Did you use bottled oxygen?
A: No, supplemental oxygen is usually only used above 26,300′.

Q: Would you climb Elbrus again?
A: Probably not. The climb was enjoyable but not very challenging. It was in Russia that made Elbrus interesting.

Bottom Line

Elbrus is a beautiful area between the Causan and Black Seas in southern Russia, with green grass-covered rolling hills. It attracts many people to the Seven Summits or to climb Europe’s highest peak. Many Russians from Moscow use it as an outdoor holiday with little intention of summiting. Elbrus is more of a cultural experience than a mountaineering one. It is kind of like an extra-high Rainier or Mont Blanc.


Elbrus Resources:


7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s

Ida Arnette
Ida Arnette

In late 2010, I launched the 7 Summits for Alzheimer’s campaign, where I wanted to climb all seven (eight) of the Seven Summits in one year. The first summit was Vinson in Antarctica on December 9th, 2010. This was the last summit on October 25, 2011. I had made every summit except Denali, which was stopped by weather, 3100′ short of the summit.

I have been able to send our Alzheimer’s message of hope, need and urgency from each continent, reaching over 12 million people and raising money for research, awareness and caregivers. In 2025, I will continue to dedicate my climbing and public presence to honoring my mom, Ida, and raising research funds for Alzheimer’s nonprofits. Please consider a donation today.donate to Alzheimers

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