Russia
18,513′,5642 meters
Summited August 11, 2011
7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s
Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia. It has two main summits: the western summit at 18,513’/5642m and the eastern summit at 18,442’/5621m. A Russian army team made the first ascent of the western peak in 1829, and an English team at the eastern peak in 1874. Mont Blanc is sometimes considered the highest in Europe, but Elbrus technically holds that honor.
The regular climbing season is from May to September. The climb is relatively short by 7 Summit standards, taking less than a week at most. I climbed from the north side using a base camp and a High Camp from where we will launch the summit bid. This side offers more of a climbing experience and is significantly less crowded.
The standard route on Elbrus’ south is technically easy and includes a cable car up to the 12,500′ level. It is a snow slope from there to the summit. Climbers stay in ‘huts,’ single-room, rock-walled buildings with tin roofs at 12,700′ and/or the Barrel Huts, 13,600′, which are huge barrels. A snow-cat is reported to be available for climbers who want a ride even higher – up to 15,750. It is common to have over 100 climbers going for the summit in a single day in July.
Like most mountains, Elbrus is also deadly, but it has a reputation for being easy. About 25 climbers die each year due to ill-preparedness or the weather, which can be extremely cold and windy. However, thousands of people have summited Elbrus, including a Soviet team of 400 climbers in 1956!
The second highest mountain in Europe is Dychtau in Russia, at 17,077’/5205m and is 40 miles southeast of Elbrus. It is considered a dangerous and technical climb, with the central peak accessible from a steep, narrow ridge from the adjacent saddle.